NOTE: After flashing the firmware to the board, connect the printer to the Pi using a usb cable (the port is at the rear of the machine). Then, SSH into the Pi and send the command “ls /dev/serial/by-id/“. This will return the serial identifier of your printer. Copy the output and paste it into the [mcu] section of printer.cfg, replacing the existing one. Once complete, restart the firmware and upon reboot the Pi should connect to the printer.
hi i did the “ls /dev/serial/by-id/“.. and it says reprap firmware. am i doing it wrong? coz my printer now is no lightscase and lcd is not on as well .. power supply motherboard and raspberry pi is on. but everything else on that is off. i need to know what is wrong with my printer. im stuck right now.
Thanks for taking this on! It's quite a capable machine as is but we're always looking to get a little extra out of it. I'm interested in the top speed/accel settings you end up with on Klipper as the printer is somewhat conservative in RRF.
Perfect timing, my printer came yesterday... RRF is impressive for what it is, but I don't want to learn all its quirks when I already have printers on klipper. Thanks for sorting this out!
Reprap have by choose decided to not split x/y for inputshaping. Just cause Klipper does it independently does mean it’s better. Booth have their drawbacks. Reprap explains their choice of inputshaping more on their wiki.
Thanks. I acknowledged this in my last video on input shaping in RepRap. You’re right, it’s not better for that reason alone. I prefer the Klipper process because it automatically fits all of the different shaping functions to your accelerometer data and suggests the best one.
The troodon 2.0 are capable to up a 10 k on accelerometer ? I have tryed to up at 6 and 10k i dont see or listening some différent than stock printer.cfg model.
Great video series on the Troodon 2. I am following this closely as I learn more about my Troodon and do upgrades. Where did you get the pin-out drawing for the Octopus X7? I have been reverse engineering this printer in order to change the board to an M8P which I expect to do this week.
Can you do a video adding Klipper expander board with enclosure thermistor and neopixel lights that change color from like blue to red once your desired chamber temp has been reached and then just go back to bright white while printing or whatever color on the troodon?
Just got done I'm missing something with my printer I think though it doesnt want to register my z probe it wants to dig into the bed I did turn it off before it did so as you never know. Is there something I have to enable or comment im guessing I do. I do get triggered buts it probing way in the back.
I know have my trodoon klipperized with your files! Now I am going to get into the jungle of tuning stuff, it took me 5-6 hours to complete the build itself, but I was slow and did a few mistakes with those plastic parts you should put behind the panels which is not very well described in the manual, but after som trial and error, I got it up And I gave up on the original firmware straight away after it refused to connect to 2 of my routers of different known brands and put klipper on it since I had a spare pi for this!
I run RepRap on my Pro 3D V-King 400 on a Duet 3D 3, I tried Klipper on one of my 2 Ender 5 Plus printers on an Orange Pi Zero 2 and couldnt get on with it, the configuration and general set up was much harder than RepRap was although I did get it printing quite well, I think I am too set in my ways with RepRap and WebControl on the V-King and I have Paneldue also, I run Octoprint and Octodash on the Ender 5 Plus machines also. Klipper didn't bring anything that would convince me to change over although I might set it up on an Ender 3 I have lying around just to give Klipper another go, I will try the Octoprint GUI also with it as I am used to this GUI.
Thanks for it! Just bought Troodon2. Just wondering If I would like to Klipper-ize Troodon2 do I need to have RPI plugged to the printer all the time, or is it required just for initial setup and flash?
Is the firmware stored on the SD card the board has or is it actually flashed to board like firmware normally is I was wondering because I would keep the reprap firmware on one sd card for backup and pop in the Klipper whenever and vice Versa
There is a firmware file that is flashed to the board and system files that are stored on the SD card. You would need to reflash the board each time in order to switch back and forth
Would a cura profile for this made on reprap firmware work with Klipper firmware the same or would you have to crate a whole new profile for cura after switching
You’ll need to change the g-code flavor and the start script in the profile. You could also just use the Voron profiles which I believe are built in to Cura.
I have tried numerous times to install Klipper using your files, it never flashes. I have tried making a new firmware but has the same issue. Is there anyway to find the controller processor other than removing the heat sink?
I did everything and got it running but when I tried to home, it went to the z switch but it missed it by a few millimeter and crashed into the bed. Had to emergency stop.
It seems the printer when it homes Y is maybe 3-4mm short of the z switch in the y-position. I have no idea how that happened. I'm guessing klipper triggers the end switch earlier maybe. I didn't notice this on the stock firmware. The z switch location now seems to be about x230 and y355 but the printer is at 350 when homed to the y switch.
@@sabahoudini try changing position_endstop and position_max in the [stepper_y] section of the config. You could also try changing the z endstop location if your pin isn’t in the same position that the config is set for.
@@ygk3d I set the homing to x354 and y355 to take advantage of the whole bed. I checked so it doesn't collide anywhere. Z endstop I reset to y 355 but it's not quite in the middle but it works. Are there macros to set the z offset and whatnot like the two macros from team gloomy?
@@ygk3d God damn it, why does everything require you to order stuff then wait a week for delivery and then realise you need something else and then wait another week. Thanks for replying :)
Thanks. New to this. My assumption is that most people in the 3D printing space would recognize the terms “Klipper” and “Voron”, but I don’t control who the video gets recommend to.
@@ygk3d For algorithm purposes I'd change it to Klipperizing the Troodon 2.0 (Guide) and then you can keep your thumb nail with the koolaid. Will help with discoverability.
reprap is a much more capable firmware . its a shame how lately everyone is running klipper and prints fast stupid benchies . people dont realise printing that fast makes your parts weak and brittle . instead of material advancements for better layer adhesion and better quality , all we get is stupid fast and ugly benchy competition .
I'm all about structural engineering parts and not speed at all cost, but the problem with strength isn't the speed as much as it's the XY motion exceeding the ability of the hot end to properly melt the filament. That's why the new fast Core XY printers have upgraded hot ends with longer melt zones and a ceramic heater that completely encircles the melt zone rather than a little cartridge heater in the bottom corner of an aluminum block that houses the nozzle on the other side.
Ya cause my Darth Vader bust needs that extra toughness while sitting on a shelf. And when I do print ABS/ASA parts that are functional I turn the speed way down to about 80/100 mms... And those parts are just as tough as any.
@@ygk3d Not that guy, but I do have some advice. - Use a warmer and brighter light for your face shots, to make them seem more lively. ua-cam.com/video/PhrUiTHI5TM/v-deo.html This video may contain some advice on how to DIY one. Also in shots from the left the Troodon's light is rather distracting. - ua-cam.com/video/cusFLqzHc3k/v-deo.html Personally I always like this guys video's, and this one in particular may help you. - Lastly (and this one might be more personal), but don't sit centre frame. But as for what you are saying, it good. For me to criticise that would be hypocritical. Best of luck.
NOTE: After flashing the firmware to the board, connect the printer to the Pi using a usb cable (the port is at the rear of the machine). Then, SSH into the Pi and send the command “ls /dev/serial/by-id/“. This will return the serial identifier of your printer. Copy the output and paste it into the [mcu] section of printer.cfg, replacing the existing one. Once complete, restart the firmware and upon reboot the Pi should connect to the printer.
hi i did the “ls /dev/serial/by-id/“.. and it says reprap firmware. am i doing it wrong? coz my printer now is no lightscase and lcd is not on as well ..
power supply motherboard and raspberry pi is on. but everything else on that is off. i need to know what is wrong with my printer. im stuck right now.
Thanks for taking this on! It's quite a capable machine as is but we're always looking to get a little extra out of it. I'm interested in the top speed/accel settings you end up with on Klipper as the printer is somewhat conservative in RRF.
Perfect timing, my printer came yesterday... RRF is impressive for what it is, but I don't want to learn all its quirks when I already have printers on klipper. Thanks for sorting this out!
Great video as always.
Great video 👍😊
Great walkthrough of the process.
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Kudos for providing the firmware configuration files.
Nice work, clean delivery, lots of great, clean information. Keep at it 👌
Great video and info! Really wanted to get a 2.0 for the larger volume but didn't want to go through a RepRap learning curve
you deserve more subs ngl
Thank you!
Reprap have by choose decided to not split x/y for inputshaping. Just cause Klipper does it independently does mean it’s better. Booth have their drawbacks. Reprap explains their choice of inputshaping more on their wiki.
Thanks. I acknowledged this in my last video on input shaping in RepRap. You’re right, it’s not better for that reason alone. I prefer the Klipper process because it automatically fits all of the different shaping functions to your accelerometer data and suggests the best one.
Thanks for this video!
Curious to see how it turns out when you did the input shaping dance and how it stacks up against a 'real' Voron.
I cannot believe I missed a video. Well done sir.
Thank you! Turn that notification bell on so you don’t miss another 😉
@@ygk3d it is. I just have to many subscriptions and it’s basically useless at this point. Haha
Thank for this great video/tutorial and you re work to make this machine on the klipper. Merci pour votre aide.
The troodon 2.0 are capable to up a 10 k on accelerometer ? I have tryed to up at 6 and 10k i dont see or listening some différent than stock printer.cfg model.
Great video series on the Troodon 2. I am following this closely as I learn more about my Troodon and do upgrades. Where did you get the pin-out drawing for the Octopus X7? I have been reverse engineering this printer in order to change the board to an M8P which I expect to do this week.
Thanks Archie. You can download it here: teamgloomy.github.io/troodon_v2_pins.html.
Can you do a video adding Klipper expander board with enclosure thermistor and neopixel lights that change color from like blue to red once your desired chamber temp has been reached and then just go back to bright white while printing or whatever color on the troodon?
I’ll look into it. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ygk3d no problem I just bought a troodon watching your videos I look forward to the learning adventure with this machine we are together!
Just got done I'm missing something with my printer I think though it doesnt want to register my z probe it wants to dig into the bed I did turn it off before it did so as you never know. Is there something I have to enable or comment im guessing I do. I do get triggered buts it probing way in the back.
I know have my trodoon klipperized with your files! Now I am going to get into the jungle of tuning stuff, it took me 5-6 hours to complete the build itself, but I was slow and did a few mistakes with those plastic parts you should put behind the panels which is not very well described in the manual, but after som trial and error, I got it up
And I gave up on the original firmware straight away after it refused to connect to 2 of my routers of different known brands and put klipper on it since I had a spare pi for this!
Nice! Glad the files helped.
@@ygk3d Works like a charm, only thing missing though is heightmap when doing a bed mesh?
The printers are looking 😂👀
I run RepRap on my Pro 3D V-King 400 on a Duet 3D 3, I tried Klipper on one of my 2 Ender 5 Plus printers on an Orange Pi Zero 2 and couldnt get on with it, the configuration and general set up was much harder than RepRap was although I did get it printing quite well, I think I am too set in my ways with RepRap and WebControl on the V-King and I have Paneldue also, I run Octoprint and Octodash on the Ender 5 Plus machines also. Klipper didn't bring anything that would convince me to change over although I might set it up on an Ender 3 I have lying around just to give Klipper another go, I will try the Octoprint GUI also with it as I am used to this GUI.
Thanks for it! Just bought Troodon2. Just wondering If I would like to Klipper-ize Troodon2 do I need to have RPI plugged to the printer all the time, or is it required just for initial setup and flash?
You’ll need the Pi to be plugged in at all times.
@@ygk3d Thank you!
Is the firmware stored on the SD card the board has or is it actually flashed to board like firmware normally is I was wondering because I would keep the reprap firmware on one sd card for backup and pop in the Klipper whenever and vice Versa
There is a firmware file that is flashed to the board and system files that are stored on the SD card. You would need to reflash the board each time in order to switch back and forth
@@ygk3d thank you!
Would a cura profile for this made on reprap firmware work with Klipper firmware the same or would you have to crate a whole new profile for cura after switching
You’ll need to change the g-code flavor and the start script in the profile. You could also just use the Voron profiles which I believe are built in to Cura.
I have tried numerous times to install Klipper using your files, it never flashes. I have tried making a new firmware but has the same issue. Is there anyway to find the controller processor other than removing the heat sink?
Mhhh.. strange. No, not that I’m aware of. You’ll need to remove the heat sink in order to verify the processor model.
Hi, do you know where I can download the default Troodon 2.0 firmware files?
You can download the stock RepRap firmware from TeamGloomy’s GitHub. Link here: github.com/TeamGloomy/Troodon-V2/tree/stock
@@ygk3d Many thanks for the link.
I did everything and got it running but when I tried to home, it went to the z switch but it missed it by a few millimeter and crashed into the bed. Had to emergency stop.
It seems the printer when it homes Y is maybe 3-4mm short of the z switch in the y-position. I have no idea how that happened. I'm guessing klipper triggers the end switch earlier maybe. I didn't notice this on the stock firmware. The z switch location now seems to be about x230 and y355 but the printer is at 350 when homed to the y switch.
@@sabahoudini try changing position_endstop and position_max in the [stepper_y] section of the config. You could also try changing the z endstop location if your pin isn’t in the same position that the config is set for.
@@ygk3d I set the homing to x354 and y355 to take advantage of the whole bed. I checked so it doesn't collide anywhere. Z endstop I reset to y 355 but it's not quite in the middle but it works. Are there macros to set the z offset and whatnot like the two macros from team gloomy?
@@sabahoudini no, but watch the beginning of my Tap video to see how it’s done.
@@ygk3d Thanks, it works great :D
How many SD cards do I need? One in the Pi and one in the motherboard right?
Yes. 2 total.
@@ygk3d Excellent! Thanks.
@@ygk3d Can you power the Pi from the motherboard or do you need external power?
@@sabahoudini you can tie in to the existing power supply with a buck converter. The Pi needs 5V.
@@ygk3d God damn it, why does everything require you to order stuff then wait a week for delivery and then realise you need something else and then wait another week. Thanks for replying :)
For people being recommended your videos who have not seen your channel, the title is total gibberish. Just FYI.
Thanks. New to this. My assumption is that most people in the 3D printing space would recognize the terms “Klipper” and “Voron”, but I don’t control who the video gets recommend to.
@@ygk3d For algorithm purposes I'd change it to Klipperizing the Troodon 2.0 (Guide) and then you can keep your thumb nail with the koolaid. Will help with discoverability.
reprap is a much more capable firmware . its a shame how lately everyone is running klipper and prints fast stupid benchies . people dont realise printing that fast makes your parts weak and brittle . instead of material advancements for better layer adhesion and better quality , all we get is stupid fast and ugly benchy competition .
I'm all about structural engineering parts and not speed at all cost, but the problem with strength isn't the speed as much as it's the XY motion exceeding the ability of the hot end to properly melt the filament. That's why the new fast Core XY printers have upgraded hot ends with longer melt zones and a ceramic heater that completely encircles the melt zone rather than a little cartridge heater in the bottom corner of an aluminum block that houses the nozzle on the other side.
@@Liberty4Ever interesting, thanks for your explanation.
Hi, can you tell me more about in what areas Reprap is more capable than Klipper? thanks for reading.
Ya cause my Darth Vader bust needs that extra toughness while sitting on a shelf. And when I do print ABS/ASA parts that are functional I turn the speed way down to about 80/100 mms... And those parts are just as tough as any.
Great content, but please work on your video format. No one wants to watch you look at the camera for 8min
This video has a fair amount of B-roll to break up the taking head shots, but I hear you. How have you seen it done elsewhere that you prefer?
@@ygk3d Not that guy, but I do have some advice.
- Use a warmer and brighter light for your face shots, to make them seem more lively. ua-cam.com/video/PhrUiTHI5TM/v-deo.html This video may contain some advice on how to DIY one. Also in shots from the left the Troodon's light is rather distracting.
- ua-cam.com/video/cusFLqzHc3k/v-deo.html Personally I always like this guys video's, and this one in particular may help you.
- Lastly (and this one might be more personal), but don't sit centre frame.
But as for what you are saying, it good. For me to criticise that would be hypocritical. Best of luck.
he is cute and is explaining all the work for us, don't be so critic