Vintage Triumph Lucas Handlebar Controls & Switches
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- I get a lot of questions about the how to choose, types, and use of vintage Lucas Triumph motorcycle handlebar controls. So I decided to make a video to clear up some confusion and show what you could expect if you buy a used bike or used parts.
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Thank you for posting this. I diagnosed an issue and returned my light switch to function with your information. I have a ‘72 built T100R with the turn signal on the left but the turn signals were never installed or the switch connected.
Nice, glad it was somewhat useful for you.
Great content, some correction to your usage.
The right hand, red arm switch was NEVER used on the electric start bikes. Beginning 1976 US regulations required an emergency kill switch. Thus the red arm as in, Panic, Red, Kill Engine. It only cut the power to the ignition switch thus killing the engine, that was it.
The first twin electric start Triumphs were 1980. They began using the shared, 1975 Trident and Norton Switchgear in 1979 in anticipation of the changeover. This switch gear was completely different than the bare aluminum Lucas units.
Great info on the twins but are you sure about that NEVER. That part came in with a basket case 75 T160 with electric start. I know the twins did not use it but pretty sure it was used on the T160.
I really did the video to start this kind of conversation and to give people a basic understanding in the future. I am seeing more and more "project" bikes that are basket cases. People who bought complete barn bikes and then tore them down and never put them back together. So I thought people might need a bit of this info for their restorations as that becomes more common. And there just is not a lot of discussion on these switches and what there is, is often confusing.
@@theeddies Agreed that Triumphs in General are very confusing. The Meridian Cooperative years were tough times. They were constantly fighting money problems, supply issues and Mis- management issues. Oh, and US federal import regulations, which was 90% of their market. Communication between the Engineering department and the Assembly line was a constant battle.
That being said, I’ve been restoring and repairing OIF, 5speed, Disc brake Triumph Twins and Triples for over 40 years and I’ve literally seen it all. I’ve had my hands in and on 100s of bikes from that time frame. Many that have never been messed with or been apart. I can tell you with 100% certainty that they never used that switch on the e start bikes.
Glad you made the video and creating this important dialogue! 🌞
Regards Mick.
@@mickgerard6696 Thanks Mick!
Strictly speaking, it only cuts power to the ignition coils, all the other circuits remain live, which is why you can kick it over until you're on the point of collapse before you realise you've left the kill switch off. After 30 years, I think I've got that one figured out now.
Yes, it's just a kill switch only. My '76 dual disc Bonneville has a black wing switch,which is original. I never touch or use it, they break easily and until recently were hard to replace. The 2 push buttons have no function on '76's. The troublesome front brake switch used to work, till it didn't, now I use the rear brake switch to indicate. The left side is exactly as shown in 11:43. I have disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated them in the past and try to keep the polished aluminum shiny. At the other end of those cables inside the headlight shell, the small white plastic pin connectors have been replaced with more reliable Lucas type soldered bullet connectors.
I'm pleased and surprised to find a UA-cam video on these switches. Thanks. I have a couple of early '70s Triumph with the first type on it and have accumulated quite a few spare cases and brake/clutch levers from auto jumbles and bought the Lucas repair kits with new buttons and springs. I prefer to replace the cross head screws that hold the switch halves together with hex/Allen bolts.
The insides of them are quite fiddly. I've not found a source for the off-white plastic 'boards' and wondered if they could be 3D printed. There are also copper contact strips and rivets on there that can be the cause if a non-working switch along with the soldering detaching.
There are new Sparx branded repro switches about.
Hello, thanks! Yes these are not talked about much. I just happened to have some different examples at the time so I thought I would document them. The hex head are a needed upgrade I agree. I am sure those boards could be printed, they are bog simple. If I had a plastic printer I would try it myself.
I think one of the reasons people don't talk about them is because of how fiddly they are, everyone just gets them to work and that is enough said, lol. Plus the wide range of configurations makes it hard to talk about them with any authority. I have had them wired all different ways myself. The Sparx ones are OK, they look cheap but they seem to work well enough from what I have seen. Not sure they are very robust but not used one enough to speak to it. The originals, despite their appearance are pretty robust. I have seen them in pretty bad corroded condition and still work. I have also seen them in pristine condition and smoke a wire, lol. My Trident brake light switch did that, fixed it, but not sure really why it did it. The little brake light switch they added in the mid 70's is extremely fiddly to the point where I am thinking of trying to figure a way to wire a tiny modern micro switch into the unit.
But anyway, this is why I made the video, to maybe start a conversation.
All the best!
Eddie
@@theeddies I had an issue with the RH switch gear on my 78 T140V a few years ago. I fitted a new front master cylinder barrel, and on the first trip out, the engine died, with a blown main fuse. Obvious place to start investigating was the kill switch, as it had been removed and refitted. I found that one of the wires to the kill switch had flexed enough to touch the handlebar and short out. It had been badly routed from the factory and it was sheer luck that it hadn't done it in the previous 40 years. Re-routing and re-soldering cured it.
I've had my T160 uk model trident since new and know it pretty well, r/hand sw was red kill switch 《wing》and upper black push button was the starter and that was it, left side switch indicators were unreliable and dangerous, still original loom and running ,now in tassie
Mines a 78 in a 65 frame, so im not worried about being correct, but i have clutch and brake levers that dont match. One alloy, one steel. Front end is off a 74. Btw, great video.
Thanks for the info. I need these switches, If you have an ebay store share the link.
These parts look like good candidates for 3D printers
That is a very good idea.
As you said the right hand control has been assembled incorrectly. The red blade should point to the right, and the down position is off, while the up (level) position is "run"
That is what I thought as well. Always fun dealing with 50year old parts, can not take anything for granted. All the best!
I bet that plastic lever arm has been the source of much aggravation over the years. Interesting to see material and design choices of the past like that.
Yes, they are often broken. But that is more often than not operator error IMHO. They can get stuck after sitting for a while.
The worst switch was the stop switch, it caused me a 3 hour involuntary stop in the middle of nowhere after shorting out
These switches will stop the motor but switch down they will allow cranking and start but stop on release, saved a few bikes getting stolen ,