Great video, thanks! I wasn't trying to do maintenance but troubleshooting my daughter's 2008 M3. I got the better understanding of how all of that interacts that lead me to checking the throttle position sensor's connector. Problem solved!
Neat trick with the throttle body good bonus information with the 2 click (Acc mode) and 'step on it'. At least I did not know this until now. For Mazdas with push button, the way to achieve this is to not have the foot on the brake and to press the start button two times. Useful when forgetting to roll up the windows after turning the motor off. As far as the 'step on it' step, a brick (or small weight) will do if you don't have a buddy.
Fine video. You absolutely do not have to remove the TB. You can clean it while on the vehicle and the positive results will be the same. I have cleaned dozens of Mazda/Ford TB's. Also EGR cleaning should be considered standard maintenance on these vehicles.
@pressrolls any good vids with EGR info? I have my mazda 3 in shambles right now. At the tail end of an entire rear end suspension replacement. Once I get it on the ground and in the garage I have a few things to do under the hood. Could definitely use some info on EGR cleaning. Thanks!
HI, Im about to do it to my 2015 mazda 3 as well. Should I disconnect the battery when working on this part? If i disconnect the battery how can the throttle open than?.. can you help?
is it not the MAF,,needle,,,you want to clean,,,take the MAF sensor off the throttle body and spray it clean,,,,why are you spraying the whole inside of the throttle body,,just to clean the Maf sensor,,,,,,also clean the egr.
The MAF is the matchstick looking object which I highlighted with a yellow circle. You could just clean that one thing, but since you have to do so much work to get to it and the TB is exposed, you might as well check to see if it needs cleaning. I guess you could remove the MAF from the air intake but I would rather not risk damaging it. Getting to the EGR is a major pain and as there were no symptoms I decided to save myself the headache. John thanks for the feedback.
I had a 2005 which I sold about 3 yrs ago and never had to clean the idle air control valve. If you have cleaned MAF and throttle body and checked for vacuum leaks and still experiencing rough idle than I might clean it. Remember the car might idle rough after cleaning throttle body and MAF for some time while the the car's computer re-calibrate.
@@bmoussalli1973 My daughter's Protege Mazda had similar sounding problem, and it turned out to be the pressure regulator control solenoid valve. In her case the car was throwing out a code and after MAF, Throttle, vacuum lines this was the bigger ticket item to fix.
@@bmoussalli1973 This is the reply from my daughter's bf who did the fix "I think it regulates air pressure into the intake. Part of the tubing went directly into the intake manifold." Hope that helps.
Here are the most common P0507 code causes: Vacuum leak Air intake leak after throttle body Leaking vacuum from EGR valve Defective positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve Contaminated/damaged throttle body Failing EVAP system Failing IAC (idle air controller) or circuit Failed sensor Loose connection or damaged wiring In my experience it probably a vacuum leak, check all hoses and connections involved with replacing the throttle body.
I have a 2005 mazada 6. I was driving and it was fine then all of a sudden it lost acceleration.its running rough and will on go 15-20 mph. What do I need to do?
There a long list of things it could be clogged fuel filter, bad distributor, bad cpu, o2 sensor, vacuum leak, etc. Look under the hood and do you hear any hissing? Do you see any lose connections? Unless it is something obvious you will probably need a mechanic to diagnosis the issue. I wish you luck.
@@wendybrooks8009 The car may run a little rough as the various computers re-calibrate and optimize. Make sure there are no air leaks and everything is connected correctly. If it doesn't clear up within the week or so then mechanic should take a look.
It would have been better to removed the throttle body and then clean. There are 4 bolts holding it to the intake remove them dislodge the throttle body and its way better job to clean front and rear of the throttle body.
mr. driven i have a question i have mazda 3 also i cant find where the fuel pressure regulator. can u help me mazda 3 2.3L 05 pls. thank you very much i hope u can help me.
Replace the entire in tank fuel pump assembly....fuel pressure problem will be solved.....if you really had a fuel pressure or reg. issue to begin with....
Guys I need help.. I have mazda 3 2005 1.6... When ever I on ac my car accelerater go up n down automatically.. Then I turn off Ac car is normal again.... It's only happen when I on Ac... Can anyone tell me what is problem?? Please
While it is normally for the rpm to change as the ac engages and disengages, the rpm should be fairly constant for each mode without wide fluctuation. Can't begin to guess, but perhaps a visit to AC mechanic is in order. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
you may have a freon overcharge. happened to my 06 mazda3. i took it to my local AC repair shop so they can flush/recharge the system. i paid $160 in total.
Also the engine with initially run rough after cleaning MAF and throttle body as the computer relearns the engine parameters. But make sure there are no vacuum leaks.
@@jonathanrivera291 Thank you for updating us. Also interesting to hear what the culprit is. A friend has 2002 Protege and it constantly having vacuum and idling issues. The mechanic has tried everything and short of replacing parts that may or may not fix the problem they are learning to live with it.
Bowser Gaming - yeah, terminology and video may not be exactly to your liking- BUT- I don’t see you taking the time to make a detailed video ? But you obviously watched this one SEVERAL times, in order to critique someone who did a pretty decent job of showing how he does it. At least you didn’t use profanity, which so many “ experts “ do. 😉
Remove Negative Battery cable, then 2 screws and a plug....I know which way is a hell of a lot quicker and easier...and also the main culprit of wierd engine codes and issues on the current Mazda range. But i guess it's worth giving it all a good clean out from time to time. By removing that Negative battery cable, you should get an added bonus of resetting your long term fuel trims....this will bring everything nicely back into line after all the other good cleaning work👍
@@simonilett998 Thank you for the sharing this information. Also don't want to forget to write done the programmed radio stations before disconnecting battery.
Removing the MAF sensor is certainly another way of doing it, but I prefer uninstalling as few things as possible. That lessons damaging the sensitive sensor, losing screws, etc. Thank you for sharing another way of doing this.
The MAF sensor is a hollow tube that's split in half on the inside. Air flows inside, up one side and down the other. There are 2 wires in the top of the tube and also a 3rd thing hangs down along the side of the tube. In order to properly clean the sensor, it has to be removed from the air intake. Dirt collects inside the tube and on the front side of that 3rd thing (a set of wires with a glass like bead on the end.)
Low viewer Auto Video "How to Cinima Sin's" for your pleasure. Enjoy. "Press these clips apart" Uh..Pull them apart... "Heres the snorkel" ... What? Thats not a snorkel.. it's an AITc (Air intake tube (Corrugated)) Others are AITs (Straight or smooth) and AITm (Metal or non rubber, corrugated or smooth/straight) "Disconnect the whole airbox because it's a sensitive instrument" So, instead of unplugging the MAF and taking out the two screws that hold the MAF in place, you take the whole box cover because its "safer"? No, its not, because unplugging it should be #1 to not bend/damage the electrical connection while moving the cover...Not to mention if you are really trying to be a stickler for component safety, you should unhook your battery before unplugging anything (Especially sensors!) As for the airbox clips, you should pick up and pull over to not wear out the plastic prematurely "I believe this part will come up with it" So... you've never done this before? "With this screw loosened" Its a bolt, but okay "The coolant hose needs to be unclipped that is attached to the airbox" That hose is in no way attached to the airbox. "this sensor here has two blue clips" Thats not a sensor. That's a vacuum line. "all we have to do is take off this top cover, which is friction held" ... I don't even know what to say about this. I have given up. there is so much wrong here...
so far the best video I had seen with great explanations thank you.
M3 one of my favorite cars. Thank you so much for the feedback and for watching.
I never knew it could be so easy! You explain it very well and concisely. Thanks.
Thank you for the feedback and for watching.
Great video, thanks! I wasn't trying to do maintenance but troubleshooting my daughter's 2008 M3. I got the better understanding of how all of that interacts that lead me to checking the throttle position sensor's connector. Problem solved!
Rott, congrats on solving the problem. The M3 was one of my favorite cars, low maintenance and fun to drive.
Neat trick with the throttle body good bonus information with the 2 click (Acc mode) and 'step on it'. At least I did not know this until now. For Mazdas with push button, the way to achieve this is to not have the foot on the brake and to press the start button two times. Useful when forgetting to roll up the windows after turning the motor off. As far as the 'step on it' step, a brick (or small weight) will do if you don't have a buddy.
Thank you for the positive review and for sharing your experience with push button ignition.
Man you saved me! I couldn't disconnect the actual sensor from the harness. Thanks!
Glad to hear this video helped you out. Thanks for the feedback.
Nice video......very helpful!
Nice to hear you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching.
Take the throttle body off and clean it doing it that way won't clean it properly
very good thank you
Thank you for watching
Take that sensor out the tube
right? i woulda taken TB out too....
the purifier where the filter goes, will have a hole or has a stop
Thank you for sharing.
Fine video. You absolutely do not have to remove the TB. You can clean it while on the vehicle and the positive results will be the same. I have cleaned dozens of Mazda/Ford TB's. Also EGR cleaning should be considered standard maintenance on these vehicles.
Thank you for the feed back!
@pressrolls any good vids with EGR info? I have my mazda 3 in shambles right now. At the tail end of an entire rear end suspension replacement. Once I get it on the ground and in the garage I have a few things to do under the hood. Could definitely use some info on EGR cleaning. Thanks!
HI, Im about to do it to my 2015 mazda 3 as well.
Should I disconnect the battery when working on this part? If i disconnect the battery how can the throttle open than?.. can you help?
Disconnect the battery. Remember to write down your programmed radio stations as they will get erased. See 10:45 for how to open the throttle valve.
is it not the MAF,,needle,,,you want to clean,,,take the MAF sensor off the throttle body and spray it clean,,,,why are you spraying the whole inside of the throttle body,,just to clean the Maf sensor,,,,,,also clean the egr.
The MAF is the matchstick looking object which I highlighted with a yellow circle. You could just clean that one thing, but since you have to do so much work to get to it and the TB is exposed, you might as well check to see if it needs cleaning. I guess you could remove the MAF from the air intake but I would rather not risk damaging it. Getting to the EGR is a major pain and as there were no symptoms I decided to save myself the headache. John thanks for the feedback.
Thank you ,do you have how to clean the idle air control valve mazda 3 1.6 petrol 2006?
I had a 2005 which I sold about 3 yrs ago and never had to clean the idle air control valve. If you have cleaned MAF and throttle body and checked for vacuum leaks and still experiencing rough idle than I might clean it. Remember the car might idle rough after cleaning throttle body and MAF for some time while the the car's computer re-calibrate.
@@cfldriven
Thank you very much
My engine stalls some times ,when stopping while on D and about to go .( Morning trips only )
@@bmoussalli1973 My daughter's Protege Mazda had similar sounding problem, and it turned out to be the pressure regulator control solenoid valve. In her case the car was throwing out a code and after MAF, Throttle, vacuum lines this was the bigger ticket item to fix.
cfldriven thank you very much ,was that the FUEL pressure you mean !
@@bmoussalli1973 This is the reply from my daughter's bf who did the fix "I think it regulates air pressure into the intake. Part of the tubing went directly into the intake manifold." Hope that helps.
What is p0507 on my mazda 3 2005 .i put a new Throttle body amd showing that why
Here are the most common P0507 code causes:
Vacuum leak
Air intake leak after throttle body
Leaking vacuum from EGR valve
Defective positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve
Contaminated/damaged throttle body
Failing EVAP system
Failing IAC (idle air controller) or circuit
Failed sensor
Loose connection or damaged wiring
In my experience it probably a vacuum leak, check all hoses and connections involved with replacing the throttle body.
I have a 2005 mazada 6. I was driving and it was fine then all of a sudden it lost acceleration.its running rough and will on go 15-20 mph. What do I need to do?
There a long list of things it could be clogged fuel filter, bad distributor, bad cpu, o2 sensor, vacuum leak, etc. Look under the hood and do you hear any hissing? Do you see any lose connections? Unless it is something obvious you will probably need a mechanic to diagnosis the issue. I wish you luck.
Thanks for the reply. We cleaned throttle body now idling is awful.
@@wendybrooks8009 The car may run a little rough as the various computers re-calibrate and optimize. Make sure there are no air leaks and everything is connected correctly. If it doesn't clear up within the week or so then mechanic should take a look.
It would have been better to removed the throttle body and then clean. There are 4 bolts holding it to the intake remove them dislodge the throttle body and its way better job to clean front and rear of the throttle body.
Thank you for sharing a different way of approaching this. It certainly would make it easier to clean it from both sides.
how long to let the maf sensor dry?
The stuff evaporates fairly quickly in warm weather so two or three minutes is plenty.
@@cfldriven Thank you.
I have mazda 3 2005 i need to clean mine
That was one of my fave cars, reliable and easy to work on.
mr. driven i have a question i have mazda 3 also i cant find where the fuel pressure regulator. can u help me mazda 3 2.3L 05 pls. thank you very much i hope u can help me.
Awesome question, the fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump which is located in the fuel tank.
@@cfldriven thank u very much
how can i buy that , even at rock auto , nothing . what can we do do we need to clean . we need to change pls help me.
Replace the entire in tank fuel pump assembly....fuel pressure problem will be solved.....if you really had a fuel pressure or reg. issue to begin with....
Mazda 3 2005 tourner la clé toutes mes cadrans les aiguille bouge et tape dans fond c quoi le problème SVP
Richard Lavigueur Go and learn how to write English you muppet.. then come and ask that.
Guys I need help.. I have mazda 3 2005 1.6... When ever I on ac my car accelerater go up n down automatically.. Then I turn off Ac car is normal again.... It's only happen when I on Ac... Can anyone tell me what is problem?? Please
While it is normally for the rpm to change as the ac engages and disengages, the rpm should be fairly constant for each mode without wide fluctuation. Can't begin to guess, but perhaps a visit to AC mechanic is in order. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
you may have a freon overcharge. happened to my 06 mazda3. i took it to my local AC repair shop so they can flush/recharge the system. i paid $160 in total.
My 06" 1.6 did the same thing. I changed the rubber seals and the rubber gromets on the injectors. Then it stopped, hope this helps.
Some abouy it dont go fast shaking
Also the engine with initially run rough after cleaning MAF and throttle body as the computer relearns the engine parameters. But make sure there are no vacuum leaks.
@@cfldriven okay
@@cfldriven Guess what is was a Relate 🤦🏽 i tock it to mazda i send 200
@@jonathanrivera291 Thank you for updating us. Also interesting to hear what the culprit is. A friend has 2002 Protege and it constantly having vacuum and idling issues. The mechanic has tried everything and short of replacing parts that may or may not fix the problem they are learning to live with it.
Bowser Gaming - yeah, terminology and video may not be exactly to your liking- BUT- I don’t see you taking the time to make a detailed video ? But you obviously watched this one SEVERAL times, in order to critique someone who did a pretty decent job of showing how he does it. At least you didn’t use profanity, which so many “ experts “ do. 😉
Thank you for watching and taking the time to share your thoughts, much appreciated.
removing the MAF is the better solution as long as you dont throw it around
Thank you for sharing your info.
Remove Negative Battery cable, then 2 screws and a plug....I know which way is a hell of a lot quicker and easier...and also the main culprit of wierd engine codes and issues on the current Mazda range.
But i guess it's worth giving it all a good clean out from time to time.
By removing that Negative battery cable, you should get an added bonus of resetting your long term fuel trims....this will bring everything nicely back into line after all the other good cleaning work👍
@@simonilett998 Thank you for the sharing this information. Also don't want to forget to write done the programmed radio stations before disconnecting battery.
Pregunta cuando se limpia el cuerpo de aceleración no hay qué desconectar batería porqué sino como hacen para abrir la mariposa verdad ?
WTF???? Just undue those two screw a remove the MAF sensor. Then clean it.
Removing the MAF sensor is certainly another way of doing it, but I prefer uninstalling as few things as possible. That lessons damaging the sensitive sensor, losing screws, etc. Thank you for sharing another way of doing this.
The MAF sensor is a hollow tube that's split in half on the inside. Air flows inside, up one side and down the other. There are 2 wires in the top of the tube and also a 3rd thing hangs down along the side of the tube. In order to properly clean the sensor, it has to be removed from the air intake. Dirt collects inside the tube and on the front side of that 3rd thing (a set of wires with a glass like bead on the end.)
Low viewer Auto Video "How to Cinima Sin's" for your pleasure. Enjoy.
"Press these clips apart" Uh..Pull them apart...
"Heres the snorkel" ... What? Thats not a snorkel.. it's an AITc (Air intake tube (Corrugated)) Others are AITs (Straight or smooth) and AITm (Metal or non rubber, corrugated or smooth/straight)
"Disconnect the whole airbox because it's a sensitive instrument" So, instead of unplugging the MAF and taking out the two screws that hold the MAF in place, you take the whole box cover because its "safer"? No, its not, because unplugging it should be #1 to not bend/damage the electrical connection while moving the cover...Not to mention if you are really trying to be a stickler for component safety, you should unhook your battery before unplugging anything (Especially sensors!)
As for the airbox clips, you should pick up and pull over to not wear out the plastic prematurely
"I believe this part will come up with it" So... you've never done this before?
"With this screw loosened" Its a bolt, but okay
"The coolant hose needs to be unclipped that is attached to the airbox" That hose is in no way attached to the airbox.
"this sensor here has two blue clips" Thats not a sensor. That's a vacuum line.
"all we have to do is take off this top cover, which is friction held" ... I don't even know what to say about this.
I have given up. there is so much wrong here...
Thank you for sharing your input.