The numbered settings on a drill chuck are not for "speed", they are a clutch setting for torque when you have it set to "screw mode", that way you can have a consistent amount of final force you drive the screw in with, which is useful for countersinking screws without predrilling, or not overtightening when screwing into thinner materials etc.
I worked in plastic injection and molding and learned a little about "counterfeit" tools. Long story short, yes the major companies do license some branding for what is called Low Market use. Essentially they sell the old molds to the Chinese manufacturer (usually the same one that makes the high end new tools) and kind of allow them to use the brand. The agreement usually stipulates that they are only to be sold in Low Market areas i.e China, India, South America and poorer markets where there is no chance of someone buying a $100 drill. To save on cost they will use a cheaper "non-official" plastic and not use the BMS {Battery Management System) chips needed to keep lithium batteries safe and lasting longer.
In case John reads this, the battery labels are to do with max voltage v. Nominal voltage. The 18650 cells can charge up to a maximum of 4.2 volts each, but drop very quickly to 3.7 volts. That 0.5 per 5 cells is the 2volt difference. The battery management system can limit the voltage maximum and minimum cutoff as well as distribute the power evenly across cells during charging. Dewalt branded batteries use Samsung cells and also have a heat sensor that will prevent use, low voltage, and short circuit cutoff
Looking at the insides, those Dewalts knockoffs look like the real Dewalts from years ago (maybe 10 or so). The difference between the two is the quality of the components and materials used.
It isn't just the Milwaukee that has the "motherboard"; all of the other non-counterfeit and probably most of the counterfeit tools you showed do too. They're just flooded in epoxy to where you wouldn't be able to see the board itself. The things that you didn't know the name of in the first DeWalt are capacitors soldered to that board and sticking out the top of the resin. Most of the tools that don't have a board in the handle have it right above the battery, usually integrated into the battery contact assembly. This control board is required for brushless tools to time the motor. Brushed motors self-time by having the brushes contact the commutator bars on the armature which physically make and break connections as the rotor spins, but the rotors on brushless tools have absolutely no contact with the electronics. The only way to know where the rotor is in its rotation is by using a Hall effect sensor to detect the polarity of its magnets and feed that to a microcontroller that determines when to pulse each of the coils to make it spin. Since it's passing a lot more current than a microcontroller on its own can control, it has other support components to facilitate wrangling those angry pixies without letting the magic smoke out, and all of those are soldered together with the microcontroller onto a control board. Which is usually flooded with resin to keep water and people trying to reverse-engineer their technology out. The Milwaukee just having a splash of silicone conformal coating rather than being potted in epoxy is actually kinda surprising. I was a TTi authorized service technician for several years, and all of the brushless Milwaukee tools that came across my bench had the control board potted. Granted, they were all the from the FUEL line rather than this newer line of budget compact brushless tools, but still.
I was surprised at the Milwaukee vs Dewalt boards and the capacitors. I was impressed that the dewalt used metal ones that should last longer (and more than likely Japanese vs china capacitor)
@christeschke9844 Pretty much all high-capacity capacitors have metal cases. You might be thinking of the difference between liquid electrolytic capacitors and polymer electrolytic capacitors, in which the electrolyte is more of a solid and less prone to evaporating over time. The cases are designed different because, unlike liquid electrolytic capacitors, they don't need score marks at the top to fail in a controlled way. Liquid electrolytics need these score marks in case the electrolyte boils and builds enough pressure to rupture the case. With the score marks, it will deliberately vent at a lower pressure and hopefully away from the rest of the circuit board.
It's kind of wild to me just how long brushed motors have been in use considering just how much it sucks to have to have a part constantly rubbing inside. Yeah, it's simpler to drive but the benefits of brushless are a no-brainer.
Something cool I recently found out about legit Milwaukee batteries: If you push and hold the charge level indicator button on them, they will begin flashing to tell you how many charge cycles the battery has been thru. It can also tell you how many days it’s been since the battery was put on the charger for the first time, the battery’s status, as well as the factory # it was made in. There’s 2 great videos about this by “ Tools & Stuff” and by “Tool Scientist” telling you how to decipher the flashing. I could never explain it as good as they do but figured it was worth sharing for fellow Milwaukee tool owners. Any Milwaukee battery from mid 2015+ has this built in diagnostic feature. Also a great way to tell them apart from counterfeit ones. Great video too John keep it up👍
@@hydrocarbon82 My current employer makes us use milwaukee and i can only say it's a wonder if they make it through the day. I got a pack of milwaukee step drills for free from the grocer because they were unsellable.
Something I noticed about the second Milwaukee counterfeit- the label said “Milwaukee Power Tools.” The official name of the company is “Milwaukee Electric Tools.”
That’s due to different laws for consumers. EU cares about their citizens, over here in MURICA 🇺🇸 they let companies just advertise whatever and lie about products all the time
@@30rdmaga I've switched to Milwaukee by chance. I found brand new Milwaukee tools at the shop and grabbed them. So far so good. Batteries last forever. The 6 battery charger is super fast. My only complaint is the reciprocating saw. It weighs as much as a small car. 😂
To offer some insight about the longevity of the tools. I bought my wife the real Dewalt drill and driver set for Christmas 3 years ago and she still uses it today with no problem. She bought her brother the "same" set online for her brother the next year for a "great price" and they both broke within 3 months. Never had a chuck fall off of any of my drivers yet so now I gotta go check all my tools and make sure they are ok.
something to note, the reason why the trigger control is a bit worse on the fake ones is that the motors are usually senseless where as the real ones have hall effect sensors. the sensors allow the controller to know exactly what position the rotor is in which allows for not only a quicker start but usually more torque from a stand still (you'll notice that even though the fake ones have plenty of torque whilst running they seem to lack as much from a stand still) on the other hand the fake ones have no clue where the rotor is so tend to go through a slow startup to get the motor spinning initially. these are used as they are usually cheaper and require less circuitry to operate.
THE DRILL NUMBERS ARE NOT SPEED LEVELS.... it is for drill mode it is a clutch and the lower the number the more sensitive the gear. Try screwing in smaller screw and use the lowest numbers it should engage clutch when it gets to torque of the number. Higher the number the more torque before clutch engages. Hope that helps Mr. John
4:14 So basically most of those batteries are Lithium-Ion based ,and li-on batteries usually comes in 3.7 cell like a 18650 battery .The thing is when a 3.7volt cell gets to fully charged ,the output voltage of the cell is almost 4.2 volt and after a while of use it gets down to 3.7 .Those 18 / 20 volt are a 5 cell of 3.7 package so when they get to full charge they output 20~21volt and when they are half charged or something they give 18.5volt as output.
DeWalt used 20v and 18v to differentiate between their vertical post batteries and their slide on batteries. They did briefly sell lithium vertical post batteries that were sold as 18v batteries, so when they came out with the newer slide on batteries, they decided to label them as "20V" so consumers could tell which battery type the tool would use.
And now they make users of the vertical post tools buy an adaptor to use the new batteries. I would normally count that as being better than making them buy new tools, except that the adaptor is only slightly cheaper than the new tools.
These are 5s (5 cells in series) packs. A fully charged lipo cell is 4.2v. 4.2x5= 21. Nominal charge, which is the accepted rating for lipos is 3.7v. 3.7x5=18.5. In theory, you're never going to be at 4.2v, because as soon as you squeeze the trigger the voltage starts to sag. So when you pop a fresh battery in and don't press the trigger, de walt is right. But the minute you start turning that motor, the 3.7v is a much more accurate measure of voltage going to the motor.
I'm fairly certain that the numbers on the drill refers to the torque setting. They have a built in clutch. Have used them many times installing drywall to get the screws to countersink at the same depth. Also use the torque setting to not over tighten small screws that go into plastic retainers at my job.
I also had an issue with him calling the clutch setting a speed setting. You are correct, it is a torque setting so that you don’t overset finish work or over tighten and strip out the fasteners.
Dewalt advertises it as a 20v because when you take it off the charger it does have 20v. It only goes to 18v when the battery is being drawn from. Dewalt does this mainly to distinguish the old 18v battery platform from the new 20v battery platform to avoid confusing the 2.
Something worth mentioning about the DeWalt that broke is that you will easily get a replacement due to manufacturing error. I don't think it would be the same for the AliBaBa impact driver
That hook on the Makita battery holder is actually a "feedback" connector, so the tool can monitor and protect the battery from overuse (over heating), discharge protection and over charging protection. All designed to prolonged battery life and stop the battery catching fire 🔥 As always, great video 😊
When you had the impact open the things in the handles were capacitors, I’m not an electrical engineer so I’m not gonna try to explain what they do exactly but I do know that they’re called capacitors, they store power, and they can blow up if you mess with them lol
I would say your explanation is sufficient. Capacitors store energy and are typically used to assist in motor start-up. The most energy is needed to overcome inertia on start-up. This requires a peak volume of electrons (Amperage) at a peak pressure of electrons (Voltage). The capacitors supply the additional amps (or milliamps) to start the drill rotation at trigger pull. After the capacitors discharge they begin to recover and recharge until the next trigger pull.
They make a nice spark if you short the terminals with a screwdriver and they hold charge for a LONG time, found that out the hard way taking apart a TV that hadn't been plugged in and turned on for over a year
The difference between 18v and 20v is bc the 18650 cells that make up the battery have a nominal voltage of 3.7V but are 4.2V when fully charged... Its typically 5 cells in series so 5x those voltages
Your kinda right The 20v thing Dewalt does is from when the battery is fully charged and doesn't have a load applied all 18v batteries will have a voltage of around 20 volts. So Dewalt and pretty much any manufacture can advertise their tools as 20 volts and not necessarily be sued for false advertiseing. all in attempt to try and get ill informed consumers into thinking their getting a better tool but in actuality their getting just a regular 18 volt tool.
Here, as an electrical engineer, the voltage rating is often peak against nominal, meaning that there is essentially no load versus under load. The 12V tools are identical; under stress, they are only about 10V, but at peak, they are 12V. Thus, it is 18V under load and 20V at its max.
Makita explained years ago that the batteries normal output is 18v with 20v max output at tool startup. Makita labels 18v and they are the original 18v lithium ion platform. Whereas Milwaukee and DeWalt chose to label 20v as a marketing gimmick when they made the switch to sound like they had more power than Makita. Milwaukee did however come out with a crazy heavy brick of 28v lithium ion the same year (2008) as the Makita 18v system. I still have my original Makita brushed motor tools from 2008. Although I have 4 impact drivers and 2 impact wrenches at this point. That original 2008 is the only brushed motor. I also like they went 2 battery 36v heavy tools. I have a few of those. All the same battery.
As someone who builds their own batter pack. Put a meter on a fully charged battery and will will read 20v at idel. They drop to 18v underload. Thats what many add the "max" qaualfier to the voltage rating. 20v is the max it will read fully charged idel, and 18v is what it will read when charged and underload.
For anyone interested it cost me $18 per 9ah battery pack with the housing, controller, and brand new Samsung cells. Milwaukee is starting to use firmware on their batteries to combat counterfeits. They never cared when we made our own batteries, or 3rd party manufacturers sold them as 3rd party. The rise of counterfeits claiming to be genuine is making them look into ways of locking out unofficial batteries on new tools.
@@Anthony-610I did. I was building custom Black& Decker and DeWalt battery packs. I have a Black& Decker weed wacker and about 130 acres so I built some big battery packs so I could get more than 15 minutes per battery. I was talking to the owner of the local hardware store. He happens to sell a bunch of those weed wackers and can't source anything official larger than 4 amp hours, and those cost him over $60 each. So he started carrying and selling my custom battery packs till I ran out of cells. I'll wait until it gets closer to the spring before I do another order that large.
@@JordosTechShack I have a few old dewalt packs I was gonna redo since they don’t hold a charge anymore but when I seen the price of the cells it was almost the same price as buying them from dewalt, and I don’t even know what the hell im doing I was just going to wing it.
@@Anthony-610if you can wait and order a bunch of cells from China and not Amazon it's very affordable. You just have to make sure you're buying from a good seller. I went down the 3rd party battery rabbit hole first. I found companies either made unsafe batteries with used cells or lie about capacity. Ordered several different 7ah batteries. Half were 7ah capacity but with shit used random cells and shit soldering. The other half were good cells and great manufacturing quality, but lied about capacity. They were only 4ah, but at $50 for a pair they still would have been a great value if they didn't lie about capacity. So I just said screw it, I'll do it myself lol.
I love it when a vid drops from you guys. It’s crazy to see the real DeWalt take a dump after 2 screws, just shows that any product can have one bad slip through now and then. Looking forward to seeing the mini-truck finished and like you could never drive it either😢. Skid tracks rule😂
I switched to Metabo a few years ago. They are great tools and have a limited lifetime warranty depending on the tool line. A coworker has the Dewalt line and the Metabo sets lags and anchors the Dewalt can't.
My brother still uses a Metabo cordless he got given as an apprentice 20 years ago, they might be lower end like most tools now but back then they made quality.
Their are two Metabo companies now.. One still from Germany and one using the name from China (might even be TecTronics like Ryobi and the MI tools etc...) For some reason the company was split or somthing.. So some are still good and others are not as good now.. Their is a way to tell the difference but I can't Remember right now..
@@zakofrx I'm in Oz and our Metabo tools have where they are made written on them. I rang the Metabo agent to find if the specific tool I was interested in was made in Germany or not, they have it all on file.
The Dewalt 850 impact is notorious for Collect issues.. was a bit surprising that it blew up on the second screw, that definitely wasn’t normal.. usually just stuck bits and jamming, not explosions😂
When you said "I don't know what those are" inside the DeWalt, those were start capacitors. It is why there was no delay when you pulled the trigger. Coils resist a change in flow of electrons. So the lithium battery needs to push a liiittle harder to start the motor. But those lithium batteries can't physically push the inrush of power needed (safely). But capacitors can discharge lots of power super fast. So the batteries charge up the caps, and when the trigger is pulled those caps discharge to add that starting power. That's why it also needs chips and extra circuitry as well, to monitor battery and capacitor charges.
Motor start capacitors are for single phase AC incuction motors, and provide phase shift to a separate start coil to create a rotating magnetic field. These are likely transient smoothing or inrush caps, which is what you're actually describing.
@SmoothIsFast791 thanks for the correction. (Not sarcasm). I am self taught, and I've noticed the best way to build knowledge is to try to answer people's questions. If I get it wrong, someone will definitely give me the correct information... I assumed any capacitor that helps a motor start smoothly is a "start" capacitor. But I understand the distinction. Thank you.
If I remember right, "20v MAX" is what they are called here in the states. It says that cause a fresh bat will spike at 20v then average at 18v output when in use.
27:30 the silicone is there partially to keep the moisture out, but much more to dampen the vibrations which could break the solder joints in bigger components like the silver cylinders that are capacitors. The "motherboard" is there to control current and drive the motor, as a brushless engine won't work without switched power. They need an electronic driver which will supply sort of AC current to them instead of straight battery voltage.
It's not Alternating Current like we see out of wall sockets, brushless motors have 3 distinct 'windings' that have to alternate polarity via a controller. Brushed motors also switch polarity of each winding, but the brush & comm do that automatically. Brushless can alter the timing of that to add power at different RPM's, brushed timing is fixed.
FYI, the numbers around the gearbox on the drills are clutch settings. Used so you don't strip fasteners. Usually only active when the screw/fastener symbol is selected. They have nothing to do with the speed of the drill unless the drill has an electonic clutch. Hope this helps.
Its actually every 18v/20v battery is 21v full charge and 14.8v empty. No matter the brand every 5S battery is the same(amps dont make a difrance in power or volts its a more capacity dense battery)
"I bought tools from TikTok Shop" vids. I'm glad I stumbled on your vids a while back. It helped me pick out the right tools for what I need (we are renovating our house)
@@turbot_god, these grey multibit tools all blurred together for me, there’s been a fair few of them. Some ratchet, some turn themselves, I’ve legit never decided to buy one after he showed them lol
It's a patent or trademark thing. Someone (forget who) owns the label 18v and so anyone else making 18v has to call it something else (like 20v) or they have to license the 18v label from the owner. Which is fine since nominally 18v 5-cell lithium packs can range from 15v to 21v depending on state of charge. The exact same battery pack will be 20v when close to full charge even if it's 'average' voltage is around 18. Pretty sure Kobalt uses 6 cells to get their 24v line of tools.
Insane that the DeWalt impact crapped out. Well... maybe not insane, but interesting! It looks like most of these "fake" versions have similar simplified electronics near the battery port, thus all of the "loose wires" running through the handle. I'm not sure if the smaller components are rated to handle the power that you'd be pushing through them with constant use? Or maybe it's fine? Just interesting to see so much unused space. My dad worked on some of the 90's Makita products. He knocked the design/quality often, but then he won a free one at a company event and loved it. Sometimes any drill is better than no drill.
I know with 20v and 18v tools they all measure 20 volts after being charged to completely full, but as soon as you put a load on them, they drop to 18.
Electrical engineer here, the voltage rating is usually peak versus nominal, so basically no load vs under load. The 12V tools are the same, it's actually 12V peak but about 10V under load. So it's 20V peak, 18V under load.
That’s what I was told, in the US they have to state the peak in Europe we have to state the under load figure as that’s what’s it’s mostly running at that’s essentially what you’re dealing with not the peak (probs butchered the wording 😂)
@@kriswheeler5686 I think it's mainly a marketing decision rather than due to some EU regulation. They seem to mostly use 18/20V to differentiate between their battery systems. Parkside (Lidl's power tool brand) sells their tools as 20V.
All 18650 and 21700 batteries are spec'd at nominal (~3.7V) and maximum voltage (~4.2V) ratings. Battery pack configurations for "20v" are some configuration of 5s#p. "s" (series) which is additive voltage and "p" (parallel) additive capacity of each "s" bank. Different 18650 and 21700 cells used have slightly different voltage ratings. Using the example above 5*3.7=18.5 vs 5*4.2=21. In the US DeWalt can market as 20V but the same tools with the same batteries even in Europe are marketed at 18V for regulatory purposes. 20v isn't a rounding error, it's a marketing play.
Also, great vid. Everyone seems to be doing fake vids but you hit on things I haven't heard. Locking chuck and spade bit (cause of no chip clearing issues) for the final boss test
I'm an electrical engineer and I have worked with a well-known tool company on battery technology. The battery chemistry found in most small consumer products like hand tools and cell phones is lithium-ion with lithium cobalt oxide cathode and graphite anode. The Nominal Voltage is about 3.6V. 18/3.6=5 which means there is probably 5 18650 lithium-ion batteries in the pack. In the US, you can advertise your battery as higher than nominal as long as you don't exceed the maximum charge Voltage, which depending on brand is usually between 4.20 and 4.25V per cell, which would come to about 21V. 20V is bigger than 18V and markets better. European batteries are much more heavily regulated and are now coming with Battery "Passports", which require minimum, nominal, and maximum Voltages to be recorded, among a lot of other things. Meaning you cannot take marketing liberties.
Isn’t Milwaukee tool owned by a Chinese company? Some irony here. Yes. They are owned by the Hong Kong company Techtronic Industries, which also owns Homelite, Hart, Oreck, Dirt Devil, and a few others. Ryobi Power Tools and Ryobi Outdoor Equipment are also Techtronic Industries brands, under license from Ryobi. Techtronic Industries bought them from the Swedish company Atlas Copco in 2005.
TTI also has Ridgid. And DeWalt is part of Stanley Black & Decker, along with Craftsman and of course, Black & Decker, alongside I forget what else. (Well, Stanley I assume, I think maybe also Porter Cable?)
They own some Europeon brands as well now... And they make the tools from each brand to a certain level so none of them compete with their other brands.. All different levels of quality but made in the same factories.. They will make the motors on different brands have different torque even though they look the same.. Amount of windings maybe..
Ok @johnMaleckiUnscrewed what the heck man!! Y'all screwed up. At 37:01 in this video your editor put drill sounds but the fake DeWalt has no battery!!! Come on now. You need to do better!!
that fantik screwdriver tool was from the costco video you did. I loved that video and actually went to my local costco to buy my self one because of that video
I think on the fake Makita, they were gonna say "Made in Japan" but chickened out when they realized Japan is way more competent in the quality control department than China (or the rest of Asia for that matter) could ever hope to be because China doesn't *try* to. I've also noticed that the real Makita has the same kind of 40 amp fuse that's found in car circuit boards.
for anyone thats curious, the difference between 18v and 20v is in the charge level and rounding, as far as Im aware anyways. 18v is referring to 5cells at 3.7volts (li-ion nominal? voltage) equaling 18.5v. 20v is the the same but 5cells at 4.2volts (li-ion fully charged voltage) equaling 21v. Also it can be more than 5 cells in a pack but its 5 cells in series which would usually be your 1.5Ah pack or 10 cells in 2 banks or 5 series/parallel which would be your 3Ah packs and so forth, also these numbers depend on the cells individual mAh ratings. So a 1.5Ah pack Im guessing would use cells rated for 1500mAh and a 3Ah pack would be the same cells but because there are 2 banks of them in parallel it works out as 1500x2 giving 3000mAh. Then your 4Ah packs would just use cells that are rated for 2000mAh. If anyone sees anything wrong with this please tell me as Id hate to be spreading mis-information but I think is is essentially the idea. Also at 9:28 those thing are capacitors probably for power filtering.
@@Spigget_1.0As soenone who builds their own batter pack. The batteries test at 20v fully charged idel. They drop to 18v underload. Thats what many add the "max" qaualfier ro the voltage rating. One is the max idle voltage, the other is the underload rating.
18 vs 20v - When Lithium cells get charged, the pack will reach 20v. When you unplug the charger, the voltage will fall to a resting nominal voltage of 18.
also its a work around so they dont have to pay tti all tti tools are 18 volt i think milfucki has the patent over seas all the tools are labeled 18 volt
The voltage is 4.2v per cell fully charged for 18650 cell. The voltage won't drop when not being charged. It will settle around 4.1v so they can actually call them 21v max if they wanted.
I have the DeWalt impact. I have beaten it to hell and back without issue. Bought a similar one for my dad and no issues. Not a good look for DeWalt, but I think it was a freak accident. Dewalt warranty should replace it without issue.
The "gold" plate on the makita is for the newest battery line. It also has a star on it same as on the new batteries. The third smaller pin on the machine is not for holding it but it's a connection for the thermocouple in the battery. If it gets to hot the machine shuts down until its cooled down.
19:40: Am I missing something? The fake one weighs 1 lb 1.42 oz (which is 17.42 oz). The real one weighs 2 lb 0.01 oz. (32.01 oz). That's a lot more than 0.2 oz difference. Again at 24:42 the fake one weighs 1 lb 1.46 oz (17.46 oz). Real one weighs 2 lb 0.33 oz (32.33 oz). That's nearly a 15 oz difference, but he says is it's a 5 oz difference?
9:36 Those are capacitors! And, yes, ideally they shouldn't be floating around like that, because they're a type of battery. They're why the real DeWalt doesn't have that trigger delay you noticed on the impact driver.
The Motherboard manages the battery and measures the cells. That’s why it had 3 pins on the bottom. So you can use the battery to near empty. The fakes don’t have any boost IC and it’s most likely directly powering the motor. So when the battery runs low so will the motor power. It will screw your legit battery if you keep using it on the fake tool.
Next time have the fake one labeled the entire time. Especially if you're going to be moving them around. I was able to tell which ones were which but there are definitely some people out there who couldn't.
I'm not sure, but the board inside the M18 is probably a combination of battery monitoring (there should be a heat sensor in the battery pack it can read), motor controller for the brushless motor, and possibly some kind of safety lockout features. The DeWalt had a board in it too, it was just black and coated in that goop (probably for water resistance?).
All that holds the release mechanism together on an impacts bit holder is a little clip that sits in a groove on the end of the bit holder. Looks like on the Dewalt that clip just wasn’t snapped in all the way. Didn’t look like it broke, just popped apart. Only reason I know that is because I recently had to rebuild the bit holder on my old impact, it can be tricky to get that clip seated.
The fact the dewalt fell apart immediately makes me happy I switched all my tools over to Milwaukee last week🤣 although I did have the dewalt impact driver and boy did that thing take a beating over the last 3-4 years !
I had a 12v Makita that broke in half where the handle meets the drill falling from a 6 foot ladder. I have dropped the B&D off at higher levels several times and still using it.
Hey everyone. I have a question. How can I get into the world or testing tools? I've been wanting to do this for a long time but I've been afraid of getting scam. Any light on the subject would be amazing. Thanks in advance. 😅😅😅😅😅😅
I'm sure this is already said somewhere in the comments, but I'm not going to scan through them. That yellow paste on the motherboard in the real drill, it might provide some insulation, but in many high-grade or name-brand products, they include that as a way to prevent tampering. They purposefully schmoo up the motherboard so you can't easily see how it works or change anything. Gives (minor) protection for patents, and prevents idiots from overclocking their drills without knowing what they're doing. Of course, I could be wrong, and I'm sure the internet will let me know.
I have the range of mostly 18v range of Hikoki, in New Zealand, (Metabo) tools but the 36v range weed wacker, 230mm (9 inch) angle grinder, 185mm (7.2 inch) Circular Saw & Chainsaw. My opinion is Hikoki is up there with Makita & Milwaukee tools, they are powerful the chargers are very fast I've had no issues with the 6 batteries and I like how the batteries are multi voltage 18 - 36v. It makes life that little bit easier going from a 18v drill to a 36v circular saw. Also I have the 240v Hikoki Table Saw with foldable legs it's very accurate and easy to use. Great brand of tools especially for the D.I.Yer.
I only use dewalt power tools and have done for the last 15 years only to replace them when our van got broken in to. I have never had a problem with them and my tools get used for everything from construction to demolition on commercial sites here in UK. I love my impact driver and my most used tool.
Got to say: i still have my old makita drills with the old 12v-batteries and they work like a charm. 20+ years old and far off from getting a lot of work (just for the one or other hobby-stuff). So if I would go by the counterfeits I would guess... good enough for home-use. But if you need one for professional application, go get an original.
The fuse in the Makita will be to do with battery overload protection. Basically it's to help prevent damaging the battery from overloading it. The extra wires etc... is part of there technology it's what allows the tool and the battery to talk to each other allowing for the best transfer of power and speeds without overloading the battery.
The numbered settings on a drill chuck are not for "speed", they are a clutch setting for torque when you have it set to "screw mode", that way you can have a consistent amount of final force you drive the screw in with, which is useful for countersinking screws without predrilling, or not overtightening when screwing into thinner materials etc.
I use it when drilling through metal usually at the end the bit catches... Saves the wrist.
Yeah how does he not know this?
Thank you. Real information.
That had me cringing the entire time.
He has been uisng drills for god knows how long and he thinks the clutch setting is a speed setting...
And he doesn't read comments because someone always mentions it .@BestLittleStudio
I worked in plastic injection and molding and learned a little about "counterfeit" tools. Long story short, yes the major companies do license some branding for what is called Low Market use. Essentially they sell the old molds to the Chinese manufacturer (usually the same one that makes the high end new tools) and kind of allow them to use the brand. The agreement usually stipulates that they are only to be sold in Low Market areas i.e China, India, South America and poorer markets where there is no chance of someone buying a $100 drill. To save on cost they will use a cheaper "non-official" plastic and not use the BMS {Battery Management System) chips needed to keep lithium batteries safe and lasting longer.
It’s kinda like medicine lol we pay a arm and a leg for one pill other countries pay only a part of a cut off finger nail lol
interesting story
In case John reads this, the battery labels are to do with max voltage v. Nominal voltage. The 18650 cells can charge up to a maximum of 4.2 volts each, but drop very quickly to 3.7 volts. That 0.5 per 5 cells is the 2volt difference. The battery management system can limit the voltage maximum and minimum cutoff as well as distribute the power evenly across cells during charging. Dewalt branded batteries use Samsung cells and also have a heat sensor that will prevent use, low voltage, and short circuit cutoff
Looking at the insides, those Dewalts knockoffs look like the real Dewalts from years ago (maybe 10 or so). The difference between the two is the quality of the components and materials used.
@@bobbyogle🤦🏿♀️
It isn't just the Milwaukee that has the "motherboard"; all of the other non-counterfeit and probably most of the counterfeit tools you showed do too. They're just flooded in epoxy to where you wouldn't be able to see the board itself. The things that you didn't know the name of in the first DeWalt are capacitors soldered to that board and sticking out the top of the resin. Most of the tools that don't have a board in the handle have it right above the battery, usually integrated into the battery contact assembly.
This control board is required for brushless tools to time the motor. Brushed motors self-time by having the brushes contact the commutator bars on the armature which physically make and break connections as the rotor spins, but the rotors on brushless tools have absolutely no contact with the electronics. The only way to know where the rotor is in its rotation is by using a Hall effect sensor to detect the polarity of its magnets and feed that to a microcontroller that determines when to pulse each of the coils to make it spin. Since it's passing a lot more current than a microcontroller on its own can control, it has other support components to facilitate wrangling those angry pixies without letting the magic smoke out, and all of those are soldered together with the microcontroller onto a control board. Which is usually flooded with resin to keep water and people trying to reverse-engineer their technology out.
The Milwaukee just having a splash of silicone conformal coating rather than being potted in epoxy is actually kinda surprising. I was a TTi authorized service technician for several years, and all of the brushless Milwaukee tools that came across my bench had the control board potted. Granted, they were all the from the FUEL line rather than this newer line of budget compact brushless tools, but still.
Man I couldn't read all that at one time lol...but you are right on with what I did read
I was surprised at the Milwaukee vs Dewalt boards and the capacitors. I was impressed that the dewalt used metal ones that should last longer (and more than likely Japanese vs china capacitor)
@christeschke9844 Pretty much all high-capacity capacitors have metal cases. You might be thinking of the difference between liquid electrolytic capacitors and polymer electrolytic capacitors, in which the electrolyte is more of a solid and less prone to evaporating over time. The cases are designed different because, unlike liquid electrolytic capacitors, they don't need score marks at the top to fail in a controlled way. Liquid electrolytics need these score marks in case the electrolyte boils and builds enough pressure to rupture the case. With the score marks, it will deliberately vent at a lower pressure and hopefully away from the rest of the circuit board.
It's kind of wild to me just how long brushed motors have been in use considering just how much it sucks to have to have a part constantly rubbing inside. Yeah, it's simpler to drive but the benefits of brushless are a no-brainer.
This guy is smart👌
Love that the Fake Makita has a warning to "Please read the manual carefully before sue" at the bottom of the sticker.
That Sue sure is shady. I heard that she's worse than Karen.
That’s some nice trolling from the Chinese! 😂
No sue first, question later
OMG, good catch, that's hilarious 🤣🤣
Legal department is top notch, tool not so much
Something cool I recently found out about legit Milwaukee batteries: If you push and hold the charge level indicator button on them, they will begin flashing to tell you how many charge cycles the battery has been thru. It can also tell you how many days it’s been since the battery was put on the charger for the first time, the battery’s status, as well as the factory # it was made in.
There’s 2 great videos about this by “ Tools & Stuff” and by “Tool Scientist” telling you how to decipher the flashing. I could never explain it as good as they do but figured it was worth sharing for fellow Milwaukee tool owners. Any Milwaukee battery from mid 2015+ has this built in diagnostic feature. Also a great way to tell them apart from counterfeit ones.
Great video too John keep it up👍
I was getting excited til you said 2015+...my half dozen are all 2014 & older lol. Kinda wild when you think they've lasted this long.
Thanks dude that's great info!
@@hydrocarbon82 My current employer makes us use milwaukee and i can only say it's a wonder if they make it through the day. I got a pack of milwaukee step drills for free from the grocer because they were unsellable.
Something I noticed about the second Milwaukee counterfeit- the label said “Milwaukee Power Tools.” The official name of the company is “Milwaukee Electric Tools.”
Close but it's Milwaukee electric tool corporation
Yes, to be extra pedantic, it’s METCO, but my point was that “Power” is not in the company name, “Electric” is.
All DeWalt XR tools in Europe are marketed as 18 volt. Also the fake drill with the metal chuck looks like a copy of a model sold in Europe.
Same with the flex volt batteries too. Europe they’re 54V, but in the US they’re marketed as 60V
That’s due to different laws for consumers. EU cares about their citizens, over here in MURICA 🇺🇸 they let companies just advertise whatever and lie about products all the time
And we got no "atomic" marketing. But same tools
18v is the same as 20v max. A 18650 is 3.6v nominal. 4v charged.
If DeWalt had just written 20v max and 60v max it would have been fine in the EU.
Lmao at the legit DeWalt falling apart immediately 😂
It is hilarious and exactly why the company I work for is phasing out our DeWalt tools.
Milwaukee>DeWalt 💯
At least the real DeWalt has a warranty and you can get it fixed. Good luck with the AliExpress one.
@@30rdmaga I've switched to Milwaukee by chance. I found brand new Milwaukee tools at the shop and grabbed them. So far so good. Batteries last forever. The 6 battery charger is super fast. My only complaint is the reciprocating saw. It weighs as much as a small car. 😂
Kobalt has stepped up it's game also.
To offer some insight about the longevity of the tools. I bought my wife the real Dewalt drill and driver set for Christmas 3 years ago and she still uses it today with no problem. She bought her brother the "same" set online for her brother the next year for a "great price" and they both broke within 3 months. Never had a chuck fall off of any of my drivers yet so now I gotta go check all my tools and make sure they are ok.
After working on gutters for a year in Colorado, ill never buy a Dewalt tool ever again. Ive spent more time fixing my tools than working
more for me than thanks.
I love my fantik screw driver.
I used it partially in my door repair and a custom closet storage build. So worth it. Small and mighty
I use mine alot for small projects like my Rc cars
something to note, the reason why the trigger control is a bit worse on the fake ones is that the motors are usually senseless where as the real ones have hall effect sensors. the sensors allow the controller to know exactly what position the rotor is in which allows for not only a quicker start but usually more torque from a stand still (you'll notice that even though the fake ones have plenty of torque whilst running they seem to lack as much from a stand still)
on the other hand the fake ones have no clue where the rotor is so tend to go through a slow startup to get the motor spinning initially.
these are used as they are usually cheaper and require less circuitry to operate.
THE DRILL NUMBERS ARE NOT SPEED LEVELS.... it is for drill mode it is a clutch and the lower the number the more sensitive the gear. Try screwing in smaller screw and use the lowest numbers it should engage clutch when it gets to torque of the number. Higher the number the more torque before clutch engages. Hope that helps Mr. John
Sam's torture-testing was the best part of the video! 💗
Man you just made me triple check my Milwaukee drills. Thanks for showing and exposing whats fake and showing what is real. Keep up the great work!
4:14 So basically most of those batteries are Lithium-Ion based ,and li-on batteries usually comes in 3.7 cell like a 18650 battery .The thing is when a 3.7volt cell gets to fully charged ,the output voltage of the cell is almost 4.2 volt and after a while of use it gets down to 3.7 .Those 18 / 20 volt are a 5 cell of 3.7 package so when they get to full charge they output 20~21volt and when they are half charged or something they give 18.5volt as output.
Just so you know, outside of North America (or at least here in Europe) DeWalt's XR batteries are still marketed as 18V.
DeWalt used 20v and 18v to differentiate between their vertical post batteries and their slide on batteries. They did briefly sell lithium vertical post batteries that were sold as 18v batteries, so when they came out with the newer slide on batteries, they decided to label them as "20V" so consumers could tell which battery type the tool would use.
They're also labeled 18v outside North America
And now they make users of the vertical post tools buy an adaptor to use the new batteries. I would normally count that as being better than making them buy new tools, except that the adaptor is only slightly cheaper than the new tools.
These are 5s (5 cells in series) packs. A fully charged lipo cell is 4.2v. 4.2x5= 21. Nominal charge, which is the accepted rating for lipos is 3.7v. 3.7x5=18.5. In theory, you're never going to be at 4.2v, because as soon as you squeeze the trigger the voltage starts to sag. So when you pop a fresh battery in and don't press the trigger, de walt is right. But the minute you start turning that motor, the 3.7v is a much more accurate measure of voltage going to the motor.
I'm fairly certain that the numbers on the drill refers to the torque setting. They have a built in clutch. Have used them many times installing drywall to get the screws to countersink at the same depth. Also use the torque setting to not over tighten small screws that go into plastic retainers at my job.
I also had an issue with him calling the clutch setting a speed setting. You are correct, it is a torque setting so that you don’t overset finish work or over tighten and strip out the fasteners.
Seriously... Why did he say speed? He must know thats a torque limiter....right?
Dewalt advertises it as a 20v because when you take it off the charger it does have 20v. It only goes to 18v when the battery is being drawn from. Dewalt does this mainly to distinguish the old 18v battery platform from the new 20v battery platform to avoid confusing the 2.
Something worth mentioning about the DeWalt that broke is that you will easily get a replacement due to manufacturing error. I don't think it would be the same for the AliBaBa impact driver
That hook on the Makita battery holder is actually a "feedback" connector, so the tool can monitor and protect the battery from overuse (over heating), discharge protection and over charging protection. All designed to prolonged battery life and stop the battery catching fire 🔥
As always, great video 😊
When you had the impact open the things in the handles were capacitors, I’m not an electrical engineer so I’m not gonna try to explain what they do exactly but I do know that they’re called capacitors, they store power, and they can blow up if you mess with them lol
Usually these small ones aren't very volatile. But you can be shocked by that stored energy if you can physically touch the contacts
I would say your explanation is sufficient. Capacitors store energy and are typically used to assist in motor start-up. The most energy is needed to overcome inertia on start-up. This requires a peak volume of electrons (Amperage) at a peak pressure of electrons (Voltage). The capacitors supply the additional amps (or milliamps) to start the drill rotation at trigger pull. After the capacitors discharge they begin to recover and recharge until the next trigger pull.
Grab a small capacitor like one of those, charge it up with a 9v battery and then put it on your tongue. Good times.
@@crashweekly7925 Did you do that while sober? Lol
They make a nice spark if you short the terminals with a screwdriver and they hold charge for a LONG time, found that out the hard way taking apart a TV that hadn't been plugged in and turned on for over a year
Y’all should get a “SkyCam” for these tool breakdowns. An overhead view of what you’re seeing would be great.
Thanks for all of the great content!
The difference between 18v and 20v is bc the 18650 cells that make up the battery have a nominal voltage of 3.7V but are 4.2V when fully charged...
Its typically 5 cells in series so 5x those voltages
All 18v/20v batteries are 18v Nominal and 20v fully charged
3.6 volts (nominal) x 5 cells = 18 volts
4 volts (maximum) x 5 cells = 20 volts
Your kinda right The 20v thing Dewalt does is from when the battery is fully charged and doesn't have a load applied all 18v batteries will have a voltage of around 20 volts. So Dewalt and pretty much any manufacture can advertise their tools as 20 volts and not necessarily be sued for false advertiseing. all in attempt to try and get ill informed consumers into thinking their getting a better tool but in actuality their getting just a regular 18 volt tool.
Here, as an electrical engineer, the voltage rating is often peak against nominal, meaning that there is essentially no load versus under load. The 12V tools are identical; under stress, they are only about 10V, but at peak, they are 12V. Thus, it is 18V under load and 20V at its max.
also... those batteries are just 5 series connected 18650s at 3.7v each, so 3.7*5=18.5v for all of them
Makita explained years ago that the batteries normal output is 18v with 20v max output at tool startup. Makita labels 18v and they are the original 18v lithium ion platform. Whereas Milwaukee and DeWalt chose to label 20v as a marketing gimmick when they made the switch to sound like they had more power than Makita. Milwaukee did however come out with a crazy heavy brick of 28v lithium ion the same year (2008) as the Makita 18v system. I still have my original Makita brushed motor tools from 2008. Although I have 4 impact drivers and 2 impact wrenches at this point. That original 2008 is the only brushed motor. I also like they went 2 battery 36v heavy tools. I have a few of those. All the same battery.
As someone who builds their own batter pack. Put a meter on a fully charged battery and will will read 20v at idel. They drop to 18v underload. Thats what many add the "max" qaualfier to the voltage rating. 20v is the max it will read fully charged idel, and 18v is what it will read when charged and underload.
For anyone interested it cost me $18 per 9ah battery pack with the housing, controller, and brand new Samsung cells. Milwaukee is starting to use firmware on their batteries to combat counterfeits. They never cared when we made our own batteries, or 3rd party manufacturers sold them as 3rd party. The rise of counterfeits claiming to be genuine is making them look into ways of locking out unofficial batteries on new tools.
@@JordosTechShackwhere are you getting all those cells for only $18? You must be buying a shit load at once
@@Anthony-610I did. I was building custom Black& Decker and DeWalt battery packs. I have a Black& Decker weed wacker and about 130 acres so I built some big battery packs so I could get more than 15 minutes per battery. I was talking to the owner of the local hardware store. He happens to sell a bunch of those weed wackers and can't source anything official larger than 4 amp hours, and those cost him over $60 each. So he started carrying and selling my custom battery packs till I ran out of cells. I'll wait until it gets closer to the spring before I do another order that large.
@@JordosTechShack I have a few old dewalt packs I was gonna redo since they don’t hold a charge anymore but when I seen the price of the cells it was almost the same price as buying them from dewalt, and I don’t even know what the hell im doing I was just going to wing it.
@@Anthony-610if you can wait and order a bunch of cells from China and not Amazon it's very affordable. You just have to make sure you're buying from a good seller. I went down the 3rd party battery rabbit hole first. I found companies either made unsafe batteries with used cells or lie about capacity. Ordered several different 7ah batteries. Half were 7ah capacity but with shit used random cells and shit soldering. The other half were good cells and great manufacturing quality, but lied about capacity. They were only 4ah, but at $50 for a pair they still would have been a great value if they didn't lie about capacity. So I just said screw it, I'll do it myself lol.
Testing youtube influencer tools. Love you guys. Mechanic from Illinois. Don't know shit about woodworking but you guys have taught me a lot.
OMG Sam with the gangsta lean in the Milwaukee mini machine in the background is the best part of this video bwahahaha
I love it when a vid drops from you guys. It’s crazy to see the real DeWalt take a dump after 2 screws, just shows that any product can have one bad slip through now and then. Looking forward to seeing the mini-truck finished and like you could never drive it either😢. Skid tracks rule😂
I switched to Metabo a few years ago. They are great tools and have a limited lifetime warranty depending on the tool line. A coworker has the Dewalt line and the Metabo sets lags and anchors the Dewalt can't.
German thinks metabo is on the lower end of the power tools.. but i think it's quite good.. comparable to dewalt, mil and makita,..and bosch too
My brother still uses a Metabo cordless he got given as an apprentice 20 years ago, they might be lower end like most tools now but back then they made quality.
I'm mostly in the Milwaukee/Festool/Ryobi ecosystem, but Metabo air tools are GOAT'ed.
Their are two Metabo companies now..
One still from Germany and one using the name from China (might even be TecTronics like Ryobi and the MI tools etc...)
For some reason the company was split or somthing..
So some are still good and others are not as good now..
Their is a way to tell the difference but I can't Remember right now..
@@zakofrx I'm in Oz and our Metabo tools have where they are made written on them. I rang the Metabo agent to find if the specific tool I was interested in was made in Germany or not, they have it all on file.
The Dewalt 850 impact is notorious for Collect issues.. was a bit surprising that it blew up on the second screw, that definitely wasn’t normal.. usually just stuck bits and jamming, not explosions😂
We have a bunch of those 809s at work and the collet comes apart on them enough that we keep the ones that fall from high up and break for spare parts
When you said "I don't know what those are" inside the DeWalt, those were start capacitors. It is why there was no delay when you pulled the trigger.
Coils resist a change in flow of electrons. So the lithium battery needs to push a liiittle harder to start the motor. But those lithium batteries can't physically push the inrush of power needed (safely). But capacitors can discharge lots of power super fast. So the batteries charge up the caps, and when the trigger is pulled those caps discharge to add that starting power. That's why it also needs chips and extra circuitry as well, to monitor battery and capacitor charges.
Motor start capacitors are for single phase AC incuction motors, and provide phase shift to a separate start coil to create a rotating magnetic field. These are likely transient smoothing or inrush caps, which is what you're actually describing.
@SmoothIsFast791 thanks for the correction. (Not sarcasm).
I am self taught, and I've noticed the best way to build knowledge is to try to answer people's questions. If I get it wrong, someone will definitely give me the correct information...
I assumed any capacitor that helps a motor start smoothly is a "start" capacitor. But I understand the distinction. Thank you.
@@SmoothIsFast791Either f’n way, they’re caps and exactly for what he said Sheldon
If I remember right, "20v MAX" is what they are called here in the states.
It says that cause a fresh bat will spike at 20v then average at 18v output when in use.
27:30 the silicone is there partially to keep the moisture out, but much more to dampen the vibrations which could break the solder joints in bigger components like the silver cylinders that are capacitors. The "motherboard" is there to control current and drive the motor, as a brushless engine won't work without switched power. They need an electronic driver which will supply sort of AC current to them instead of straight battery voltage.
It's not Alternating Current like we see out of wall sockets, brushless motors have 3 distinct 'windings' that have to alternate polarity via a controller. Brushed motors also switch polarity of each winding, but the brush & comm do that automatically. Brushless can alter the timing of that to add power at different RPM's, brushed timing is fixed.
Motherboard is for LED lights, voltage step downs, and probably a battery protection cutoff circuit for not over draining a battery.
That fake dewalt drill two part gap is probably because they bolt on different battery terminals without having to change out the entire mold
FYI, the numbers around the gearbox on the drills are clutch settings. Used so you don't strip fasteners. Usually only active when the screw/fastener symbol is selected. They have nothing to do with the speed of the drill unless the drill has an electonic clutch. Hope this helps.
The numbers on the chuck are not the speed of the drill. It's the amount of torque the drill can use.
Its actually every 18v/20v battery is 21v full charge and 14.8v empty. No matter the brand every 5S battery is the same(amps dont make a difrance in power or volts its a more capacity dense battery)
"I bought tools from TikTok Shop" vids. I'm glad I stumbled on your vids a while back. It helped me pick out the right tools for what I need (we are renovating our house)
20v is with all cells full charged, 18v is nominal charge (half way between full and needing to be recharged)
The "I Bought Costco Tools" vid! I ended up buying that electric screwdriver for my brother and sister as Christmas gifts and they already love them.
Oh dang I think you're right. That's the big screwdriver huh? He got the smaller one in a TikTok shop video.
@@turbot_god, these grey multibit tools all blurred together for me, there’s been a fair few of them. Some ratchet, some turn themselves, I’ve legit never decided to buy one after he showed them lol
It's a patent or trademark thing. Someone (forget who) owns the label 18v and so anyone else making 18v has to call it something else (like 20v) or they have to license the 18v label from the owner.
Which is fine since nominally 18v 5-cell lithium packs can range from 15v to 21v depending on state of charge. The exact same battery pack will be 20v when close to full charge even if it's 'average' voltage is around 18. Pretty sure Kobalt uses 6 cells to get their 24v line of tools.
Insane that the DeWalt impact crapped out. Well... maybe not insane, but interesting!
It looks like most of these "fake" versions have similar simplified electronics near the battery port, thus all of the "loose wires" running through the handle. I'm not sure if the smaller components are rated to handle the power that you'd be pushing through them with constant use? Or maybe it's fine? Just interesting to see so much unused space.
My dad worked on some of the 90's Makita products. He knocked the design/quality often, but then he won a free one at a company event and loved it. Sometimes any drill is better than no drill.
Every product can have a dud..
Duds of good products usually crap out fast due to them failing due to a mistake over general Bad materials..
I know with 20v and 18v tools they all measure 20 volts after being charged to completely full, but as soon as you put a load on them, they drop to 18.
Electrical engineer here, the voltage rating is usually peak versus nominal, so basically no load vs under load. The 12V tools are the same, it's actually 12V peak but about 10V under load. So it's 20V peak, 18V under load.
Which is why Bosch used to call their 12v line 10.8V
Thanks for sharing those details. It is interesting to read the specifics.
That’s what I was told, in the US they have to state the peak in Europe we have to state the under load figure as that’s what’s it’s mostly running at that’s essentially what you’re dealing with not the peak (probs butchered the wording 😂)
@@kriswheeler5686 I think it's mainly a marketing decision rather than due to some EU regulation. They seem to mostly use 18/20V to differentiate between their battery systems.
Parkside (Lidl's power tool brand) sells their tools as 20V.
All 18650 and 21700 batteries are spec'd at nominal (~3.7V) and maximum voltage (~4.2V) ratings. Battery pack configurations for "20v" are some configuration of 5s#p. "s" (series) which is additive voltage and "p" (parallel) additive capacity of each "s" bank. Different 18650 and 21700 cells used have slightly different voltage ratings. Using the example above 5*3.7=18.5 vs 5*4.2=21. In the US DeWalt can market as 20V but the same tools with the same batteries even in Europe are marketed at 18V for regulatory purposes.
20v isn't a rounding error, it's a marketing play.
Also, great vid. Everyone seems to be doing fake vids but you hit on things I haven't heard. Locking chuck and spade bit (cause of no chip clearing issues) for the final boss test
Yes new video. Happy new year
I'm an electrical engineer and I have worked with a well-known tool company on battery technology. The battery chemistry found in most small consumer products like hand tools and cell phones is lithium-ion with lithium cobalt oxide cathode and graphite anode. The Nominal Voltage is about 3.6V. 18/3.6=5 which means there is probably 5 18650 lithium-ion batteries in the pack. In the US, you can advertise your battery as higher than nominal as long as you don't exceed the maximum charge Voltage, which depending on brand is usually between 4.20 and 4.25V per cell, which would come to about 21V. 20V is bigger than 18V and markets better. European batteries are much more heavily regulated and are now coming with Battery "Passports", which require minimum, nominal, and maximum Voltages to be recorded, among a lot of other things. Meaning you cannot take marketing liberties.
Isn’t Milwaukee tool owned by a Chinese company? Some irony here.
Yes. They are owned by the Hong Kong company Techtronic Industries, which also owns Homelite, Hart, Oreck, Dirt Devil, and a few others. Ryobi Power Tools and Ryobi Outdoor Equipment are also Techtronic Industries brands, under license from Ryobi.
Techtronic Industries bought them from the Swedish company Atlas Copco in 2005.
TTI also has Ridgid.
And DeWalt is part of Stanley Black & Decker, along with Craftsman and of course, Black & Decker, alongside I forget what else. (Well, Stanley I assume, I think maybe also Porter Cable?)
They own some Europeon brands as well now...
And they make the tools from each brand to a certain level so none of them compete with their other brands..
All different levels of quality but made in the same factories..
They will make the motors on different brands have different torque even though they look the same.. Amount of windings maybe..
13:02
That's exactly what I said in my head, "I don't know what to think right now."
😄👍
I love getting off work and seeing a new video was posted.
They say 20 volt because it's 20-21v when it's fully charged (15-16v when discharged) so 18 is the nominal voltage and some companies just use that
In Scotland "Sodder" sounds like something obscene. We say solder....With a Scottish accent. There can be only one. 🤣
I mean, if you're doing it right, solder is obscene.
Mur-der Sol-der Sod-der
That escalated quickly 😂
You need to make a shirt of Sam sitting in the mini truck in the background with “Never Give Up On Your Dreams.”
Ok @johnMaleckiUnscrewed what the heck man!! Y'all screwed up. At 37:01 in this video your editor put drill sounds but the fake DeWalt has no battery!!! Come on now. You need to do better!!
Yo wtf??? Why would he do that? Pressing trigger and nothing happening would be funny af.
that fantik screwdriver tool was from the costco video you did. I loved that video and actually went to my local costco to buy my self one because of that video
You need to do a fake drill battle like you did with the real ones so we can see how many pieces come flying off.
I came here to say that
Based on what the Impact driver did, I am willing to bet the DeWalt would lose.
here in the UK our Dewalt battery equipment is 18v
I think on the fake Makita, they were gonna say "Made in Japan" but chickened out when they realized Japan is way more competent in the quality control department than China (or the rest of Asia for that matter) could ever hope to be because China doesn't *try* to. I've also noticed that the real Makita has the same kind of 40 amp fuse that's found in car circuit boards.
You should make all the fake drills battle to see how many break
The energy on this video is like 4am on a Sunday
for anyone thats curious, the difference between 18v and 20v is in the charge level and rounding, as far as Im aware anyways. 18v is referring to 5cells at 3.7volts (li-ion nominal? voltage) equaling 18.5v. 20v is the the same but 5cells at 4.2volts (li-ion fully charged voltage) equaling 21v. Also it can be more than 5 cells in a pack but its 5 cells in series which would usually be your 1.5Ah pack or 10 cells in 2 banks or 5 series/parallel which would be your 3Ah packs and so forth, also these numbers depend on the cells individual mAh ratings. So a 1.5Ah pack Im guessing would use cells rated for 1500mAh and a 3Ah pack would be the same cells but because there are 2 banks of them in parallel it works out as 1500x2 giving 3000mAh. Then your 4Ah packs would just use cells that are rated for 2000mAh. If anyone sees anything wrong with this please tell me as Id hate to be spreading mis-information but I think is is essentially the idea. Also at 9:28 those thing are capacitors probably for power filtering.
Not now honey! Johns uploaded a new video!
Aren’t the numbers torque settings on when it stops screwing? Not speed?
In Europe Dewalt sell his stuff as 18V not 20V, because its misleading advertising
i was going to say the same. why is it 20v in USA if its actually 18v?
@Spigget_1.0 it's a marketing strategy, you see 20V and think that its better than the 18V Milwaukee
@@Spigget_1.0As soenone who builds their own batter pack. The batteries test at 20v fully charged idel. They drop to 18v underload. Thats what many add the "max" qaualfier ro the voltage rating. One is the max idle voltage, the other is the underload rating.
@@Spigget_1.0 marketing bro
Because the US has awful consumer protection laws@@Spigget_1.0
The "silicone" inside the Dewalt drill is a conformal coating, and the little round cylinders are capacitors.
18 vs 20v - When Lithium cells get charged, the pack will reach 20v. When you unplug the charger, the voltage will fall to a resting nominal voltage of 18.
thus deceptive advertising. Car batteries, when charging reach 14.4v volts yet are sold as 12 since they settle at 12.6-13
also its a work around so they dont have to pay tti all tti tools are 18 volt i think milfucki has the patent over seas all the tools are labeled 18 volt
The voltage is 4.2v per cell fully charged for 18650 cell. The voltage won't drop when not being charged. It will settle around 4.1v so they can actually call them 21v max if they wanted.
You bought that electric screwdriver in Costco I think
I can't believe everyone is letting the DeWalt Impact Driver breaking go untouched. Apparently DeWalt isn't as cracked up as it is supposed to be.
oh they're very cracked up in this vid xDDDD
Tbf i own pretty much every dewalt tool they hve nd ive never had a single thing break except my dcf850 impact the forward reverse switch is sticking
that worries me because i bought that exact impact last month as my first dewalt power tool.
I have the DeWalt impact. I have beaten it to hell and back without issue. Bought a similar one for my dad and no issues. Not a good look for DeWalt, but I think it was a freak accident. Dewalt warranty should replace it without issue.
At least the real DeWalt has a warranty
The "gold" plate on the makita is for the newest battery line. It also has a star on it same as on the new batteries.
The third smaller pin on the machine is not for holding it but it's a connection for the thermocouple in the battery. If it gets to hot the machine shuts down until its cooled down.
19:40: Am I missing something? The fake one weighs 1 lb 1.42 oz (which is 17.42 oz). The real one weighs 2 lb 0.01 oz. (32.01 oz). That's a lot more than 0.2 oz difference.
Again at 24:42 the fake one weighs 1 lb 1.46 oz (17.46 oz). Real one weighs 2 lb 0.33 oz (32.33 oz). That's nearly a 15 oz difference, but he says is
it's a 5 oz difference?
That's a mistake the editor made, not him. For the example at 19:40 the first is 1lb 14.2oz, and the second is 2lb .01oz.
@@REH86Ahhh!!! good eye.
you should do another drill tournament but real vs counterfeit
9:36 Those are capacitors! And, yes, ideally they shouldn't be floating around like that, because they're a type of battery. They're why the real DeWalt doesn't have that trigger delay you noticed on the impact driver.
The Motherboard manages the battery and measures the cells. That’s why it had 3 pins on the bottom. So you can use the battery to near empty. The fakes don’t have any boost IC and it’s most likely directly powering the motor. So when the battery runs low so will the motor power. It will screw your legit battery if you keep using it on the fake tool.
Next time have the fake one labeled the entire time.
Especially if you're going to be moving them around. I was able to tell which ones were which but there are definitely some people out there who couldn't.
Looks like the fakes had the wrist straps but he didn’t mention that
Hey, it’s the screwdriver from the Costco tool video! My wife got me one for Christmas! Handy tool for around the house.
I'm not sure, but the board inside the M18 is probably a combination of battery monitoring (there should be a heat sensor in the battery pack it can read), motor controller for the brushless motor, and possibly some kind of safety lockout features. The DeWalt had a board in it too, it was just black and coated in that goop (probably for water resistance?).
All that holds the release mechanism together on an impacts bit holder is a little clip that sits in a groove on the end of the bit holder. Looks like on the Dewalt that clip just wasn’t snapped in all the way. Didn’t look like it broke, just popped apart. Only reason I know that is because I recently had to rebuild the bit holder on my old impact, it can be tricky to get that clip seated.
36:50 I love sam just chillin' in the background like you've got a posse.
The fact the dewalt fell apart immediately makes me happy I switched all my tools over to Milwaukee last week🤣 although I did have the dewalt impact driver and boy did that thing take a beating over the last 3-4 years !
I had a 12v Makita that broke in half where the handle meets the drill falling from a 6 foot ladder. I have dropped the B&D off at higher levels several times and still using it.
Absolutely love these videos
Hey everyone. I have a question. How can I get into the world or testing tools? I've been wanting to do this for a long time but I've been afraid of getting scam. Any light on the subject would be amazing. Thanks in advance. 😅😅😅😅😅😅
I'm sure this is already said somewhere in the comments, but I'm not going to scan through them. That yellow paste on the motherboard in the real drill, it might provide some insulation, but in many high-grade or name-brand products, they include that as a way to prevent tampering. They purposefully schmoo up the motherboard so you can't easily see how it works or change anything. Gives (minor) protection for patents, and prevents idiots from overclocking their drills without knowing what they're doing.
Of course, I could be wrong, and I'm sure the internet will let me know.
I have the range of mostly 18v range of Hikoki, in New Zealand, (Metabo) tools but the 36v range weed wacker, 230mm (9 inch) angle grinder, 185mm (7.2 inch) Circular Saw & Chainsaw. My opinion is Hikoki is up there with Makita & Milwaukee tools, they are powerful the chargers are very fast I've had no issues with the 6 batteries and I like how the batteries are multi voltage 18 - 36v. It makes life that little bit easier going from a 18v drill to a 36v circular saw. Also I have the 240v Hikoki Table Saw with foldable legs it's very accurate and easy to use. Great brand of tools especially for the D.I.Yer.
I'm sure that the Dewalt impact was defective, not a true reflection on Dewalt. I hope. 😂 Then again, I only buy Milwaukee.
John, the numbers on the chuck only affect the driver mode and adjust the torque setting on the clutch.
All tools are still made in Xhina so good luck with these new tariffs affording anything
We need more Sam! Sam's the best!
For 1/5 of the price as a home user, I am sold 👍👍👍👍
It's funny how the fake Makita had what looked like a ring light but it was non functional. It still just had the 3 lights like the real one
I only use dewalt power tools and have done for the last 15 years only to replace them when our van got broken in to. I have never had a problem with them and my tools get used for everything from construction to demolition on commercial sites here in UK. I love my impact driver and my most used tool.
The ending of the video was oddly satisfying!
Got to say: i still have my old makita drills with the old 12v-batteries and they work like a charm. 20+ years old and far off from getting a lot of work (just for the one or other hobby-stuff).
So if I would go by the counterfeits I would guess... good enough for home-use. But if you need one for professional application, go get an original.
The fuse in the Makita will be to do with battery overload protection. Basically it's to help prevent damaging the battery from overloading it. The extra wires etc... is part of there technology it's what allows the tool and the battery to talk to each other allowing for the best transfer of power and speeds without overloading the battery.