The Generator Mid Men is now available at Backcountry ( bit.ly/3Cy0k1w ). See more retailers and current prices here: weighmyrack.com/shoe/scarpa-generator-mid-men
Just to be crystal clear, the bleep was a choice I made in an attempt to be humorous. It was not SCARPA's desire to censor it. They had ZERO input into how I edited this. I appreciate Matt's openness on the subject of how they see the obvious gold standard in this category - the TC Pro - and addressing that honestly. I hope our audience is aware that this is not a SCARPA video, this is a Weighmyrack video which SCARPA was kind enough to let us shoot while at the Big Gear show. They showed us their product and gave us the freedom to edit the footage as we see fit, and this is true for all videos on this channel. Our goal is to give you access to the brands in the same way we have access to them, I hope my editing hasn't made that ambiguous. Cheers! Andreas
I’m sure this is a really solid well-built new shoe, it might even fit my foot better. The problem Scarpa with *almost* all their shoes is that they put out a new shoe or major design and it’s gone in 1-2 years. The TC Pro is still going to be here 10 and maybe even 20 years from now. Sportiva drops and changes shoes but the solution, muria, mythos, etc are all still here. This video is a backpedaling mess when it comes to explaining the shoe it’s replacing and it’s sizing. It just further compounds the likelihood of this shoe disappearing off of the face of the earth in the next one or two seasons and being in the same position as people mentioned in the video that “love” the Maestro having to find a totally new shoe. To make things even worse there’s no size comparison to the Maestro. Something like “if you liked the Maestro size up half a size for a similar all day fit” or something similar would help. I don’t want to buy this shoe, have a lot of trial and error getting the correct size(not all of us live near a Scarpa dealer with larger sizes) finally getting a shoe I am happy with and then have it be discontinued in another year. Finding replacement shoes is NOT fun. There is a reason Sportiva continues to produce the same 10, 15, 20 year shoes, people are happy with what works for them. You want to go after the TC Pro? Prove that you’re willing to commit to producing the shoe for the long haul. Also, it doesn’t help to keep tying the usage of the shoe to the popularity of Freesolo and Dawn wall. Yes, TC pro sales went up after those films came out. However if you went to any major granite climbing area before you would see TC pros on almost everyone’s feet. It feels condescending to keep saying because of the movies people are buying TC Pros. I hope this shoes successful and it stays around if it’s actually a good shoe. I hope Scarpa proves me wrong but I see this shoe either being completely redesigned in the next one or two seasons or just being fully discontinued. Sportiva has been getting worse about this recently but is not even close to the unbelievable inconsistency and ephemeral nature of Scarpa shoes(excluding the few shoes that they don’t mess with).
I couldn’t agree more… I am starting to get concerned they discontinued Instinct VSRs which has been my go to boulder/sport shoe for years. I have a pair of TC pros for trad but they don’t fit my wider feet well so I generally lean towards my old 5.10s or Tenayas… but those are too soft for a long day of technical edging. I want a scarpa shoe that I like that I can go back to years on. Anasazis were discontinued and that was a slap in the face. Even prana changed stretch Zion pants into dogshit. Companies need to learn when they have a product that works to keep it. It’s what keeps us coming back year after year.
Stiff rubber in a full length outside with a full length midsole and high levels of heel tension with a ton of underarch support is exactly what is needed to enter the market, and several other mid tops fail in one aspect or another. This is the only category with such a clear best shoe, and only Scarpa could actually take this on. Glad to see
A lot of brands lately have been trying to "modernize" their stiffer shoes by making them softer. The new Boostic and Anasazi line in particular come to mind. I really don't get it - if people wanted soft shoes they'd _get_ soft shoes.
@@TrackpadProductions will say, I think the new Boostic is phenomenal and far better feedback and increased ability to pull in on incut edges than the previous version. However, I know some people dislike the thinner rubber, but I think other shoes can accommodate such as the instinct lace while the new Boostic does this off vert aggressive edging beautifully. Do get the point, though, and there is a place in the high performance line for a stiffer and more structured Boostic to bring all the new tech into the old purpose.
@@zacharylaschober I should probably clarify - I don't think either of the examples I gave are _bad_ shoes. I normally rock futuras and solutions, I've definitely not got any gripes with soft shoes. I just find it frustrating and baffling that they're softening shoes _who's whole appeal was their stiffness and power._ I've got a friend who snapped up a half dozen pairs of the old boostics before they stopped selling them because the new ones just weren't stiff enough. Like, imagine LaSpo making the _TC Pro_ softer, in an attempt to "modernize" it. There'd be _riots._
I think it’s a good shoes for alpine but for trad climbing 😂 I want see in the finger crack, to high volume on the front shoes like the maestro mid,black diamond aspect pro should be the one can win the race 😊
If you want to go after the T***o market, I think you need to make an indoor bouldering shoe. I see so many T***os at the bouldering gym (wear whatever is comfortable, but I do find it funny)
Use of the tc pro for indoors, bouldering especially, is baffling to me. There are a few shoes you generally don’t use outside like the Veloce and Theory, but if one shoe could be said to be outdoor only… TC Pro. I feel about the same when people have the Scarpa Mago on. These are hyper specialized machines, and the gym doesn’t have any of that.
@@zacharylaschober I'm pretty sure most of the people bouldering indoors in TC Pros are just newcomers who saw them in Free Solo or The Dawn Wall, and just aren't experienced enough to know the difference. You never really see people working anything above V3 or 5.9 in them. At least in my experience. **shrug**
@@zacharylaschober Agree on the "Indoor Tc Pro" Part, but damn, i love my Magos (Previous Model) the Heel and Toehooks suck, but i love the forefoot. The Balance between Smearing and Small Feet is unlike any other Shoe i know. Not even the Testarossa. I Would love the mago front, asymetic lace and Toepatch of the Chimera with a Evolv heel + Unparallel rubber.
@@TrackpadProductions I think the worst part I see in this are experienced multipitch and alpine climbers who wear them in the gym for the entire session… All of em had TC Pros before the films, and every single one paid almost double of a Finale to be able to size them ridiculously to avoid a break in period. I’m being strongly judgmental about others in their shoes having their own great time, but it’s just weird. I genuinely think the two greatest shoes in existence are the blue green Mago followed closely by the current black green Mago, but there just is not the need for em in the gym. Foot holds are all too high profile and regular and often rounded. Would throw a pair of Chimeras on to edge through those and then have the foot dexterity to tackle everything else.
@@WeighMyRack I think Matt described it very well. Comparable stiffness to the TC Pro underfoot. It has a much more thicker and softer upper than the TC Pro with greater variance in materials. Certainly an extremely complex shoe to make , but we feel the extra effort in construction will be valued by the end user and offering the user a better fitting shoe is almost always more appreciated than offer the customer more improved marketing.
@SCARPASPA BRING BACK THE OLD BOOSTIC!!!! The new one isn't even remotely good or similar shoe compared to the old one, which is the best stiff shoe ever! PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'd recommend reaching out to SCARPA Italy directly. We're not affiliated in any way other than knowing some of the folks at the company. Generally Heinz Mariacher and Nathan Hoette are open to design feedback if you can offer specific ideas. I wouldn't count on anyone at SCARPA watching these videos ;)
@@WeighMyRack I watch them ;) And we listen to our customers. The old Boostic was futuristic and ahead of the market. We knew it worked , we designed it , we made it , but the market only valued it once it was gone. Which is often the case. The new Boostic was instantly much more popular and proved it self in the performance and fit. If you want to keep your old Boostic they can be resoled many many times , or sent back to the factory and fully rebuilt. Many die hard old Boostic fans do this today , so all options are there for our customers to keep the SCARPA shoes they love and do the right thing in regards to your carbon foot print.
No kidding. Scarpa competely blew it getting rid of the parrot boostic and left us with nothing that is even close to the same. So many climbers are totally pissed about it including many Scarpa athletes that spend a lot of time climbing granite miltipitch. Fingers crossed Scarpa will listen to their customers and ATHLETES....
@@nathanhoette328 Interesting, I've not heard of the option of rebuilding the shoe. That would be great if it completely brought them back to life. Curious why some sponsored folks I have reached out to or know personally are desperately rationing out their Boostic rubber and not going with this option. I'll have to ask em. I (and everyone I know who loves the OG) disagree that the new boostic is even a half as capable of a shoe for hard, technical edging. The new boostic loses so much of its edging power (which isn't much comparatively) pretty quickly and becomes a soft shoe that isn't at all what a boostic is known for. IMO the Instinct V is a better shoe with much better life and same capability as the new boosty.
@@JeromyMarkee You probably haven't heard about the rebuilding option because it's in fact not an option. I reached out to Scarpa NA and asked about this and they confirmed it's not a service that they perform.
The Generator Mid Men is now available at Backcountry ( bit.ly/3Cy0k1w ). See more retailers and current prices here: weighmyrack.com/shoe/scarpa-generator-mid-men
Censoring "TC-Pro" is one of the most hilarious things I've ever seen a shoe demo do before.
Just to be crystal clear, the bleep was a choice I made in an attempt to be humorous. It was not SCARPA's desire to censor it. They had ZERO input into how I edited this. I appreciate Matt's openness on the subject of how they see the obvious gold standard in this category - the TC Pro - and addressing that honestly. I hope our audience is aware that this is not a SCARPA video, this is a Weighmyrack video which SCARPA was kind enough to let us shoot while at the Big Gear show. They showed us their product and gave us the freedom to edit the footage as we see fit, and this is true for all videos on this channel. Our goal is to give you access to the brands in the same way we have access to them, I hope my editing hasn't made that ambiguous.
Cheers!
Andreas
I’m sure this is a really solid well-built new shoe, it might even fit my foot better. The problem Scarpa with *almost* all their shoes is that they put out a new shoe or major design and it’s gone in 1-2 years. The TC Pro is still going to be here 10 and maybe even 20 years from now. Sportiva drops and changes shoes but the solution, muria, mythos, etc are all still here. This video is a backpedaling mess when it comes to explaining the shoe it’s replacing and it’s sizing. It just further compounds the likelihood of this shoe disappearing off of the face of the earth in the next one or two seasons and being in the same position as people mentioned in the video that “love” the Maestro having to find a totally new shoe. To make things even worse there’s no size comparison to the Maestro. Something like “if you liked the Maestro size up half a size for a similar all day fit” or something similar would help.
I don’t want to buy this shoe, have a lot of trial and error getting the correct size(not all of us live near a Scarpa dealer with larger sizes) finally getting a shoe I am happy with and then have it be discontinued in another year. Finding replacement shoes is NOT fun. There is a reason Sportiva continues to produce the same 10, 15, 20 year shoes, people are happy with what works for them.
You want to go after the TC Pro? Prove that you’re willing to commit to producing the shoe for the long haul. Also, it doesn’t help to keep tying the usage of the shoe to the popularity of Freesolo and Dawn wall. Yes, TC pro sales went up after those films came out. However if you went to any major granite climbing area before you would see TC pros on almost everyone’s feet. It feels condescending to keep saying because of the movies people are buying TC Pros.
I hope this shoes successful and it stays around if it’s actually a good shoe. I hope Scarpa proves me wrong but I see this shoe either being completely redesigned in the next one or two seasons or just being fully discontinued. Sportiva has been getting worse about this recently but is not even close to the unbelievable inconsistency and ephemeral nature of Scarpa shoes(excluding the few shoes that they don’t mess with).
I couldn’t agree more… I am starting to get concerned they discontinued Instinct VSRs which has been my go to boulder/sport shoe for years. I have a pair of TC pros for trad but they don’t fit my wider feet well so I generally lean towards my old 5.10s or Tenayas… but those are too soft for a long day of technical edging. I want a scarpa shoe that I like that I can go back to years on. Anasazis were discontinued and that was a slap in the face. Even prana changed stretch Zion pants into dogshit. Companies need to learn when they have a product that works to keep it. It’s what keeps us coming back year after year.
I am really eager to try this out. I was not a big fan of the Maestro, but I have confidence in Scarpa design and this looks very interesting.
Stiff rubber in a full length outside with a full length midsole and high levels of heel tension with a ton of underarch support is exactly what is needed to enter the market, and several other mid tops fail in one aspect or another. This is the only category with such a clear best shoe, and only Scarpa could actually take this on.
Glad to see
A lot of brands lately have been trying to "modernize" their stiffer shoes by making them softer. The new Boostic and Anasazi line in particular come to mind. I really don't get it - if people wanted soft shoes they'd _get_ soft shoes.
@@TrackpadProductions will say, I think the new Boostic is phenomenal and far better feedback and increased ability to pull in on incut edges than the previous version. However, I know some people dislike the thinner rubber, but I think other shoes can accommodate such as the instinct lace while the new Boostic does this off vert aggressive edging beautifully.
Do get the point, though, and there is a place in the high performance line for a stiffer and more structured Boostic to bring all the new tech into the old purpose.
@@zacharylaschober I should probably clarify - I don't think either of the examples I gave are _bad_ shoes. I normally rock futuras and solutions, I've definitely not got any gripes with soft shoes.
I just find it frustrating and baffling that they're softening shoes _who's whole appeal was their stiffness and power._ I've got a friend who snapped up a half dozen pairs of the old boostics before they stopped selling them because the new ones just weren't stiff enough. Like, imagine LaSpo making the _TC Pro_ softer, in an attempt to "modernize" it. There'd be _riots._
I think it’s a good shoes for alpine but for trad climbing 😂 I want see in the finger crack, to high volume on the front shoes like the maestro mid,black diamond aspect pro should be the one can win the race 😊
If you want to go after the T***o market, I think you need to make an indoor bouldering shoe. I see so many T***os at the bouldering gym
(wear whatever is comfortable, but I do find it funny)
Use of the tc pro for indoors, bouldering especially, is baffling to me. There are a few shoes you generally don’t use outside like the Veloce and Theory, but if one shoe could be said to be outdoor only… TC Pro. I feel about the same when people have the Scarpa Mago on. These are hyper specialized machines, and the gym doesn’t have any of that.
@@zacharylaschober I'm pretty sure most of the people bouldering indoors in TC Pros are just newcomers who saw them in Free Solo or The Dawn Wall, and just aren't experienced enough to know the difference. You never really see people working anything above V3 or 5.9 in them. At least in my experience. **shrug**
@@TrackpadProductionsI seen so so climbers wear them in gym, but never the best.
@@zacharylaschober Agree on the "Indoor Tc Pro" Part, but damn, i love my Magos (Previous Model) the Heel and Toehooks suck, but i love the forefoot. The Balance between Smearing and Small Feet is unlike any other Shoe i know. Not even the Testarossa. I Would love the mago front, asymetic lace and Toepatch of the Chimera with a Evolv heel + Unparallel rubber.
@@TrackpadProductions I think the worst part I see in this are experienced multipitch and alpine climbers who wear them in the gym for the entire session… All of em had TC Pros before the films, and every single one paid almost double of a Finale to be able to size them ridiculously to avoid a break in period. I’m being strongly judgmental about others in their shoes having their own great time, but it’s just weird.
I genuinely think the two greatest shoes in existence are the blue green Mago followed closely by the current black green Mago, but there just is not the need for em in the gym. Foot holds are all too high profile and regular and often rounded. Would throw a pair of Chimeras on to edge through those and then have the foot dexterity to tackle everything else.
I have these shoes and they are soo good
How’s the fit? I wear 43s for Instincts, really want these for trad.
And the generator low is gone already?
Does anything about this shoe seem "low profile"
How much stiffer is this compared to the TC-Pro?
Thanks.
They aren't out yet so we'll likely have to wait. Unless @nathanhoette328 watches and chimes in.
@@WeighMyRack I think Matt described it very well. Comparable stiffness to the TC Pro underfoot. It has a much more thicker and softer upper than the TC Pro with greater variance in materials. Certainly an extremely complex shoe to make , but we feel the extra effort in construction will be valued by the end user and offering the user a better fitting shoe is almost always more appreciated than offer the customer more improved marketing.
I’m micro edging
@SCARPASPA BRING BACK THE OLD BOOSTIC!!!!
The new one isn't even remotely good or similar shoe compared to the old one, which is the best stiff shoe ever!
PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'd recommend reaching out to SCARPA Italy directly. We're not affiliated in any way other than knowing some of the folks at the company. Generally Heinz Mariacher and Nathan Hoette are open to design feedback if you can offer specific ideas. I wouldn't count on anyone at SCARPA watching these videos ;)
@@WeighMyRack I watch them ;) And we listen to our customers. The old Boostic was futuristic and ahead of the market. We knew it worked , we designed it , we made it , but the market only valued it once it was gone. Which is often the case. The new Boostic was instantly much more popular and proved it self in the performance and fit. If you want to keep your old Boostic they can be resoled many many times , or sent back to the factory and fully rebuilt. Many die hard old Boostic fans do this today , so all options are there for our customers to keep the SCARPA shoes they love and do the right thing in regards to your carbon foot print.
No kidding. Scarpa competely blew it getting rid of the parrot boostic and left us with nothing that is even close to the same. So many climbers are totally pissed about it including many Scarpa athletes that spend a lot of time climbing granite miltipitch. Fingers crossed Scarpa will listen to their customers and ATHLETES....
@@nathanhoette328 Interesting, I've not heard of the option of rebuilding the shoe. That would be great if it completely brought them back to life. Curious why some sponsored folks I have reached out to or know personally are desperately rationing out their Boostic rubber and not going with this option. I'll have to ask em. I (and everyone I know who loves the OG) disagree that the new boostic is even a half as capable of a shoe for hard, technical edging. The new boostic loses so much of its edging power (which isn't much comparatively) pretty quickly and becomes a soft shoe that isn't at all what a boostic is known for. IMO the Instinct V is a better shoe with much better life and same capability as the new boosty.
@@JeromyMarkee You probably haven't heard about the rebuilding option because it's in fact not an option. I reached out to Scarpa NA and asked about this and they confirmed it's not a service that they perform.