I’d love to hear what you thought of the video, was it helpful, enjoyable, easy to follow? Please drop a comment below 👇 Remember, for discount Warhammer minis and paints don’t forget to check out this link: bit.ly/2Zmbd3u If you did like this video please Like, Subscribe and Share 🙂
Can you paint over (white) decals using a contrast? I have the Raven Guard upgrade pauldrons and was planning to paint then anthracite grey, following the same approach over the (white) squad symbol transfers?
Thank you so much for this video. I avoided using transfers for ages because my initial experiences went so badly, but the one I just applied looks absolutely perfect. Really appreciate all your hard work in making these.
I wish i had found this video sooner. I've been having trouble applying the decals to my first space marines but now I'll be able too make them look much better.
Thank you thank you thank you!!! These basics tutorial videos have saved me. You are so patient and neat and thorough with the process and I learn so well from these videos.
Nice video and great result. I prepare the surface with a coat of gloss varnish first. Good clean surface, no air bubbles, no silvering of the carrier film. MicroSet and MicroSol both work very well together.
Well I’ve been using set and sol for about 4 years now and after watching this video it appears I’ve been doing it wrong 🤣😂 thanks for this vid, really helpful 👍🏼
This was a very informative and easy to follow guide. Especially considering that there are a lot of conflicting guides on transfers. Thank you so much for this! Liked and subscribed. ❤❤
Really helpful guide! Transfers have been abit daunting for a while, got the bottles of Micro set and sol but saw conflicting guides, this seemed to work really well! Time to do the rest. Thanks!
Hey man. I know I've commented a bunch already but I'd like to come back again and give you a humongous thank you! I used this method to put the transfers on my Caladius and although there was some trial and error (emphasis on the latter) I'm very happy with the results. These are some of the biggest transfers I'm likely to ever apply (each is about the size of my thumb). I will definitely use this for transfers in the future as I'm no longer intimidated by them!
Hey, good on a video demonstrating microset and microsol. I found it very strange how few in tabletop miniatures seem to know about them. I guess they are more traditional in the world of military modeling.
Thank you Agreed, it’s odd how tabletop mini gamers seem to be unaware of these standard products from the world of scale models. Hopefully vids like this will help more people find out about them 👍
Most aircraft modellers will gloss coat their models prior to applying decals. It ensures a nice smooth surface for the decal to sit on then use m-sol and set or other such product. After dry and cleaned up a bit they spray an over coat of matte or semigloss depending on the effect they desire.
Complerely agree, if you feel your surface isn’t smooth enough then a gloss varnish would certainly help fill in any imperfections. It’s not something I’ve done myself, but I can see the logic 👍
I put a quick light coat of gloss clear coat. Then after decal is set put the matte clear coat it's not all shinny. I feel like the gloss makes it easier for decal to adjust, also acts as adhesive for back of decal.
Thank you I have some Age of Sigmar videos planned but I dont have any lizardmen at the moment I'm afraid. I'll certainly add them to the list though, cos they are very cool
Hi just found this video but I was curious. You cover the entire shoulder pad and that makes sense, but what about on vehicles? Are you covering the entire panel that the transfer is being put on?
Lots of people suggest you do, this is to smooth imperfections in the paint surface before applying the decal. If your paint is already smooth, then there’s not really a need to do it. Maybe try both methods and see which way you prefer 👍
Thanks for watching. For applying my decals I just use a basic craft shop synthetic bristled brush. I use that brush just for decals and rinse it fully with clean water after every use. It's lasted me years so far Hope that helps
Should you also use a gloss varnish before you apply it or is that not necessary with Microset? What about sealing the transfers in with a varnish after application?
Great question. So, I have seen some people recommend applying gloss varnish first. This is in an attempt to smooth the surface before applying. It’s not something I’ve ever done but if you’re finding your paint isnt the smoothest before applying the decals, then it’s certainly something to give a try. You will then need to apply a matte varnish afterwards to kill the shine from the gloss you added at the start. And then, in terms of sealing them, I don’t do anything more than just applying my usual matte varnish to all the mini at the end of painting. Which I do whether it has decals or not. Applying Microsol actually softens and melts the plastic backing of the decal a little bit. So the repeated applications eventually results in the backing melting away and only the ink of the decal is left. It’s this which gives the painted on result. Because that’s essentially just what it is, just the ink on the paint surface. Hope that helps Thanks for watching 👍
Whoa! Does this eliminate that step some people recommend where you cut a slit into the transfers for shoulder pads so they won't have the big wrinkles? If so then I need to get some of this stuff asap because those methods still didn't work for me.
@@MrSpeklz Finally trying this now and it's working beautifully. Instead of the matt varnish spray can though for the final step I am going to try to use some Micro Satin. It came with the Set/Sol pack I got on amazon.
@@theorganicshadowI'd steer away from spray varnishes. I've heard too many horror stories. Paint on is much better imo or airbrush varnish. Rattle cans have a bad reputation and my brother messed up part of his alpha legion from rattle can varnish that frosted over all his hard work
@@MrSpeklz Thanks for the warning! I saw a video Duncan put out about using brush-on varnishes and he recommended either blending glossy/matt together to get a semi gloss, or adding a tiny bit of water to either to make them easier to brush on. I am using a tiny bit of water with Micro Satin (which just seems like it's the same as the citadel matt brush on varnish) and it's looking great. Unfortunately 5 applications of Sol didn't remove the edges of the decals but I guess we can't win them all.
I’ve never really been too concerned about it and it’s not seemed to dull the metallics too badly. If you feel it’s an issue you can always mask the metallics off or reapply some gold back after the matte varnish to re-establish the shine for them. Actually, thinking about it, I apply my decals BEFORE my final highlighting so that gives me opportunity to re shine any metallics anyway
If you paint a coat of gloss varnish prior to using Micro Set and placing the decal, the edge of the decal will blend right in and virtually disappear. After letting the Micro Sol dry, use dull varnish
Absolutely, these products are designed for all decals. Only thing you need to be aware of with bigger decals is don’t let them dry out as your working with them. Work quickly and keep topping up with solution if you notice them drying before you’re done positioning.
Ah yeah, unfortunately this is one of those things which does need you to be patient. I tend to have a few on the go at once and be doing other things while each coat is drying.
If it’s unrealistic to go to the edge of the panel as it’s so big, the best thing to do is just do enough to cover the edges of the decal. If you keep it a neat mm or so all round you won’t really get any watermarks. Especially if you apply a matte varnish over the whole model at the end anyway
Bit of a tricky one, as I guess it mainly depends on the environment you’re working in. In a rainy cold UK I’d say it takes around 30-40 mins to dry. If you’re based somewhere hotter and more exotic then I presume that would be much shorter. In terms of working time, you can continue to move and position the decal as long as the surface is wet. I’ve never found that it has dried before I had the decal where I wanted it. If you did find it was starting to dry though, you can simply add a touch more and continue to work the decal into position. Hope that helps 👍🏻
Hm so is that drying time between set and sol? Trying it now on some pads and the set seems to dry really quickly - I have to be quick getting the transfer on and positioned.. but not sure if I can apply sol yet as it's only been a few minutes.. it LOOKS dry and the transfer is nowhere near conformed to the rounded surface, but not sure if I can use the sol yet..
I know, right? Why can’t they make the numbers on the bottles bigger? I’ve had so many people msg me saying they never even knew the numbers were there and they’ve used the stuff for years
@@maxd11111 you know, I really can’t remember. I just quickly painted it up to slap a transfer on. I think it was Classic Gold from Darkstar miniatures
Good tutorial, but how would you adapt this to large transfers like the Forge World custodes sheet? The microset dries too fast to get them in position and i actually just ruined a nacelle on my Caladius and have to redo it because I tried to remove the transfer
Thanks man So, I guess my advice is keep it wet. Which I know sounds a bit flippant but it’s really not meant to be. While you’re working with the transfer and getting it into position you need to be aware that the microset is always trying to dry out. For big decals especially, I’ll use a big brush and make sure it is always wet with microset. That way, if the decal starts to stick you can give the brush a little squeeze and it’ll release some more fluid and release the decal again. There is always a bit of a race against time with these things though, so planning the position first is key. Have a plan where you want it. Set the model so it’s at the best position to let you get to the area as easily as possible. Finally, if you do find the decals has stuck in the wrong position. Don’t jab at it hoping to free it up again, as that will likely tear or damage it. Your best bet is to flood the decal with microset and you should find it will release and float on the surface again. Sorry to hear you ruined one on your Caladius. We’ve all been there and it’s so annoying. Sometimes you do just get difficult model and stuff doesn’t go right. Try and see it as a positive and a learning experience and just try again. Hope that helps a bit.
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides thanks for the reply. I tried again and it came out better. A follow up though: since you let the micro set dry before using the micro sol, would that mean it would be okay to let it sit for a while? Say you have an errand to run and don't have the time to wait to do the micro sol, would I be able to come back later and do the micro sol then? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
@@benrichardson5662 no such thing as a dumb question man. And the answer is yes, it’s absolutely fine to leave as long as you like between the steps. The only requirement is you leave each step long enough for it to be fully dry before applying the next coat.
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuidesthe micro set says it's a decal remover too. Is this true? I'm considering redoing the decals and want to know if there's any chance of removing them cleanly because I am NOT scraping them off with a knife like the Internet suggests.
@@benrichardson5662 yes it is, to a certain degree. It will only remove a decal if there’s still some of the plastic backing remaining. Even then, it will only really soften it again, so you may need to do some scraping. I certainly wouldn’t recommend using a knife. My suggestion would be to use a wet cocktail stick / toothpick. That will give you some abrasion whilst limiting the damage to the paint underneath. It won’t be perfect though. Lastly, if you’ve applied the transfer using microsol (as directed in this video) you won’t be able to remove them using microset. You see, microsol basically dissolves the plastic backing and just leaves the link of the transfer on the surface. That’s what gives the brilliant “painted on” look. To remove them, you’d be better off painting over them
I know maybe this is not the best piace ti ask this but: how can one do an all-over shade in a vehicle and don’t make it look patchy? I’ve found a color scheme i really like for My marines but to get it the last passage is two coats of Athonian camoshade over a Loren forest base. For normal marines it’s fine (first ones were a bit patchy but now it’s mostly fine) but I have no idea on how to do vehicles, any tip you can spare?
Good question, so the answer is you apply it from top down and in logical sections. For example, if it has body panels with clear edges, then apply the wash a panel at a time. You don’t have to wait for each panel to dry before you start the next but just make sure you don’t apply so much wash that it starts to run out of control. By working top to bottom you’ll be working with gravity which should help you control the amount on the model too. Have a look at the Titan I painted, ‘cos I mentioned washing vehicles in that ua-cam.com/video/jVAty0c7_5E/v-deo.html
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides thank you for the link! I remembered heard you speak about something like this but could not find where. And also thanks for the quick explanation, i’ll try it out as soon as I can
That’s unusual. What paints are you using and how long did you leave between painting your paint and applying the microsol? You could remove all doubt and apply a thin layer of varnish to seal the paint first before using the microsol and microset.
I've always believed that decals should be applied to a gloss surface to minimise the risk of silvering . There is a school of thought that the Micro Sol is just diluted vinegar
If you feel the surface isn’t smooth beforehand, it certainly wouldn’t hurt to apply a gloss varnish to make it smoother. I wouldn’t say it’s necessary though, as you can see from the result here. In terms of Micro Sol being dilute vinegar, I’m couldn’t really say. It’s clearly an acid of some degree, so it could be vinegar based I guess. Whatever it is, it works a treat 👍
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Adventure? I thought this is a hobby to relax and not get heart attacks from! ;) But seriously: currently I'm to burned out to even pick up a brush. Or fire up the airbrush. Or even get anything done. (besides the uHH). But you did a good video and I'm just a grumpy old grognard ;)
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #1 НАЧАЛО ПУТЕШЕСТВИЯ [Новый сезон] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/380Q7gLWGvk/mqdefault.jpg)
I’d love to hear what you thought of the video, was it helpful, enjoyable, easy to follow?
Please drop a comment below 👇
Remember, for discount Warhammer minis and paints don’t forget to check out this link:
bit.ly/2Zmbd3u
If you did like this video please
Like, Subscribe and Share 🙂
Can you paint over (white) decals using a contrast?
I have the Raven Guard upgrade pauldrons and was planning to paint then anthracite grey, following the same approach over the (white) squad symbol transfers?
@Brush, what about when applying a decal over another decal? when do you apply it?
The best tutorial about decals that I have ever seen.
Thank you
Much appreciated 👍🏻
You are consistently one of the best channels to watch for beginners like me. Thanks for all your helpful videos!
Thank you 🙏
Once more, you’ve made a frustrating process much easier. Thank you, sir!
Thanks man
It’s great to see you working your way through my videos.
I really hope you’re enjoying the content and the channel?
👍
This is the best transfer vid I’ve seen man, thank you so much❤
Thank you so much for this video. I avoided using transfers for ages because my initial experiences went so badly, but the one I just applied looks absolutely perfect. Really appreciate all your hard work in making these.
You are very welcome
Really glad to hear you found the video helpful and more importantly you got a great result using this method 👍
Just got both MSet & MSol. Really simple to follow guidance and cadence to your tutorials. Cracking. Mega thanks 😊
Thanks for watching the video
Really glad it’s been helpful 🙂
absolute godsend
this channel is the best for learn the basics . finally someone who actually explaining the stuff
Thanks for making this easy step by step video. This hobby noob is very grateful.
Really glad you found it helpful 👍🏻
Please do check out my other videos for more tips and paint recipes which I hope you’ll find useful too
Very helpful very detailed absolutely love it. Subscribed as well
Thank you so much 🙏
Finally. Exactly what ive been looking for. Because ive been using the excuse that theyve suffered "battle damage". Battle damage... on clean models.
Thanks for watching, so glad it was what you were looking for
I wish i had found this video sooner. I've been having trouble applying the decals to my first space marines but now I'll be able too make them look much better.
Thank you thank you thank you!!! These basics tutorial videos have saved me. You are so patient and neat and thorough with the process and I learn so well from these videos.
Thanks for watching.
Really pleased the videos are helping you and they are easy to follow 🙂
Very very excellent guide, I always learn new stuff from your videos.
Thank you
Really glad you found it useful
Nice video and great result. I prepare the surface with a coat of gloss varnish first. Good clean surface, no air bubbles, no silvering of the carrier film. MicroSet and MicroSol both work very well together.
Thank you
I can see how a gloss layer could help if your painting layer isn’t as smooth as you’d like. Good tip 👍🏻
Im restarting my whole chapter step by step from your videos dude. Thanks so much!
Well I’ve been using set and sol for about 4 years now and after watching this video it appears I’ve been doing it wrong 🤣😂 thanks for this vid, really helpful 👍🏼
Thanks for watching
Let me know if you see any improvement now 👍🏻
Finally! How to use the micro set and sol the right way. My applications were destroying the transfers, as i was positioning then soaked in sol
This was a very informative and easy to follow guide. Especially considering that there are a lot of conflicting guides on transfers.
Thank you so much for this!
Liked and subscribed. ❤❤
Thank you, that’s so great to hear.
Really appreciate your support
Love this channel. Keep it up !
Thanks man 🤛🏻
I hate doing decals but this video made life easy ❤
Your videos are brilliant they've helped me alot thank you. I wondered how my painting looked streaky till I seen your paint thining vid. 😊
Thank you
So glad you’re enjoying the channel and finding it useful 👍
Great video, very helpful, starting to get back to some kit models and this information will really help with decals, thanks, +1 new subscriber :)
Very well explained, thank you. Just ordered the bits and am fully motivated to put the finishing touch on my boys Orcs!!
Thanks for watching, so glad you found it useful. Please do let me know how you get on 👍
Really helpful guide! Transfers have been abit daunting for a while, got the bottles of Micro set and sol but saw conflicting guides, this seemed to work really well! Time to do the rest. Thanks!
Hey man. I know I've commented a bunch already but I'd like to come back again and give you a humongous thank you! I used this method to put the transfers on my Caladius and although there was some trial and error (emphasis on the latter) I'm very happy with the results. These are some of the biggest transfers I'm likely to ever apply (each is about the size of my thumb). I will definitely use this for transfers in the future as I'm no longer intimidated by them!
Extremely nice and easy to follow guide. My iron hands can now use the symbol of the chapter
Very good job showing how this works!
Great video saved me a lot of pain
This is awesome coming back into the hobby and Im going to be trying this soon
Great demonstration of the process. Thank you!
Very interesting method, I will try that in a future painting.
Microset & Microsol are amazing and I can’t recommend them enough
If you do try them, please do let me know what you think 👍🏻
Really simple to follow, thanks.
Hey, good on a video demonstrating microset and microsol. I found it very strange how few in tabletop miniatures seem to know about them. I guess they are more traditional in the world of military modeling.
Thank you
Agreed, it’s odd how tabletop mini gamers seem to be unaware of these standard products from the world of scale models. Hopefully vids like this will help more people find out about them 👍
Most aircraft modellers will gloss coat their models prior to applying decals. It ensures a nice smooth surface for the decal to sit on then use m-sol and set or other such product. After dry and cleaned up a bit they spray an over coat of matte or semigloss depending on the effect they desire.
Complerely agree, if you feel your surface isn’t smooth enough then a gloss varnish would certainly help fill in any imperfections.
It’s not something I’ve done myself, but I can see the logic 👍
This is definitely most helpful
WOW! Just found your channel. Really love your style to tutorial videos. Defiantly Subbin. Great Job!
Thanks man
Really glad you’re enjoying the channel
I'd recommend Tamiya Mark Fit Strong instead. Final result is a lot better than Micro set and it's only one solution instead of two for both steps.
Thanks for the recommendation, I’ll have to try it out. 👍🏻 would make for a good comparison video too
I put a quick light coat of gloss clear coat. Then after decal is set put the matte clear coat it's not all shinny. I feel like the gloss makes it easier for decal to adjust, also acts as adhesive for back of decal.
Thank you.
Thanks for watching
Love your videos, they really helps! Would love to see your take on an lizardmen/seraphon unit!?🤞🙏
Thank you
I have some Age of Sigmar videos planned but I dont have any lizardmen at the moment I'm afraid. I'll certainly add them to the list though, cos they are very cool
Just followed your steps. You're a star, my dude, thank you :D
Really glad it helped 👍🏻
Great guide. How long do you wait between each step?
Been waiting for this vid ... been to shit scared to try it all Willy nilly haha
You'll have to let me know if the video helps you then
Hi just found this video but I was curious. You cover the entire shoulder pad and that makes sense, but what about on vehicles? Are you covering the entire panel that the transfer is being put on?
thx
Should I varnish the shoulder first. Before applying the decal
Lots of people suggest you do, this is to smooth imperfections in the paint surface before applying the decal.
If your paint is already smooth, then there’s not really a need to do it.
Maybe try both methods and see which way you prefer 👍
Great video, what type or what kind of paint brush are you using, thanks
Thanks for watching.
For applying my decals I just use a basic craft shop synthetic bristled brush.
I use that brush just for decals and rinse it fully with clean water after every use.
It's lasted me years so far
Hope that helps
Quick question, do you seal the model before applying the micro set? Or is it safe to go straight in the model as is? Thanks and great video!!!
Should you also use a gloss varnish before you apply it or is that not necessary with Microset? What about sealing the transfers in with a varnish after application?
Great question.
So, I have seen some people recommend applying gloss varnish first. This is in an attempt to smooth the surface before applying. It’s not something I’ve ever done but if you’re finding your paint isnt the smoothest before applying the decals, then it’s certainly something to give a try. You will then need to apply a matte varnish afterwards to kill the shine from the gloss you added at the start.
And then, in terms of sealing them, I don’t do anything more than just applying my usual matte varnish to all the mini at the end of painting. Which I do whether it has decals or not.
Applying Microsol actually softens and melts the plastic backing of the decal a little bit. So the repeated applications eventually results in the backing melting away and only the ink of the decal is left.
It’s this which gives the painted on result. Because that’s essentially just what it is, just the ink on the paint surface.
Hope that helps
Thanks for watching 👍
Whoa! Does this eliminate that step some people recommend where you cut a slit into the transfers for shoulder pads so they won't have the big wrinkles? If so then I need to get some of this stuff asap because those methods still didn't work for me.
It does, no need to since the part 2 softens/melts the plastic to conform
@@MrSpeklz Finally trying this now and it's working beautifully. Instead of the matt varnish spray can though for the final step I am going to try to use some Micro Satin. It came with the Set/Sol pack I got on amazon.
@@theorganicshadowI'd steer away from spray varnishes. I've heard too many horror stories. Paint on is much better imo or airbrush varnish. Rattle cans have a bad reputation and my brother messed up part of his alpha legion from rattle can varnish that frosted over all his hard work
@@MrSpeklz Thanks for the warning! I saw a video Duncan put out about using brush-on varnishes and he recommended either blending glossy/matt together to get a semi gloss, or adding a tiny bit of water to either to make them easier to brush on. I am using a tiny bit of water with Micro Satin (which just seems like it's the same as the citadel matt brush on varnish) and it's looking great. Unfortunately 5 applications of Sol didn't remove the edges of the decals but I guess we can't win them all.
Do I need to worry about the matte varnish spraying onto the gold trims? Will that take away the shine of the gold?
I’ve never really been too concerned about it and it’s not seemed to dull the metallics too badly.
If you feel it’s an issue you can always mask the metallics off or reapply some gold back after the matte varnish to re-establish the shine for them.
Actually, thinking about it, I apply my decals BEFORE my final highlighting so that gives me opportunity to re shine any metallics anyway
If you paint a coat of gloss varnish prior to using Micro Set and placing the decal, the edge of the decal will blend right in and virtually disappear. After letting the Micro Sol dry, use dull varnish
Very interesting video. Exploring getting back into model aircraft - is this suitable for large decals as one might find on an airliner?
Absolutely, these products are designed for all decals. Only thing you need to be aware of with bigger decals is don’t let them dry out as your working with them.
Work quickly and keep topping up with solution if you notice them drying before you’re done positioning.
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Thank you - this is one area I often struggled with while modelling decades ago so good to know! Cheers!
For homemade decals, will any waterslide decal film work or is a specific film required? Isn't waterslide film extremely thick?
aybe show us how to paint magenta word bearers? Love you
Yes. Good. Like.
@7:33 Brush over it with some what?? Alarming Medium? Can you please clarify what product you referenced there.
Apologies
It's "Lahmian Medium", it's made by Games Workshop and it's basically a thin paint without any colour pigment in it.
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides No worries, thanks!
Damn...I have so much trouble with this because I am so impatient.
Ah yeah, unfortunately this is one of those things which does need you to be patient.
I tend to have a few on the go at once and be doing other things while each coat is drying.
I am going to decal a redemptor drednought how much should i put on as i cant really go to the edge lioe you did eith the space marine
If it’s unrealistic to go to the edge of the panel as it’s so big, the best thing to do is just do enough to cover the edges of the decal. If you keep it a neat mm or so all round you won’t really get any watermarks. Especially if you apply a matte varnish over the whole model at the end anyway
Nice guide, have you got plans to do more Lord of the Rings painting guides?
Thank you
Yes, I’m actually part way through a Mahud guide at the moment
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Nice, I am looking forward to it.
can you do this on any model? half tracks, etc
Absolutely. This method is for applying transfers & decals on to anything
do you let the decal dry from the water before you take it off the paper?
No, you actually need it to be wet for it slide off the backing paper. Don’t let it dry again or it will just stick back onto the paper
Can transfers be painted or washed over once they are set?
yes they can
I would recommend applying a thin layer of matte varnish over them first but after that you can pretty much do what you like
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Thanks for the reply. Your videos are excellent! Keep up the great content 👍
@@PureShmental thank you very much
Really glad you’re enjoying the channel
So you need glue not water?
One question - what's the rough drying time on these solutuons? And what's the kind of working time we have with micro set once applied?
Bit of a tricky one, as I guess it mainly depends on the environment you’re working in. In a rainy cold UK I’d say it takes around 30-40 mins to dry. If you’re based somewhere hotter and more exotic then I presume that would be much shorter.
In terms of working time, you can continue to move and position the decal as long as the surface is wet. I’ve never found that it has dried before I had the decal where I wanted it.
If you did find it was starting to dry though, you can simply add a touch more and continue to work the decal into position.
Hope that helps 👍🏻
Hm so is that drying time between set and sol? Trying it now on some pads and the set seems to dry really quickly - I have to be quick getting the transfer on and positioned.. but not sure if I can apply sol yet as it's only been a few minutes.. it LOOKS dry and the transfer is nowhere near conformed to the rounded surface, but not sure if I can use the sol yet..
Ultramarine painting please?
I wish I had viewed your video before wrecking 25% of the decals I applied. I put the Sol on first because I thought Set was to set the decal down 😕
I know, right?
Why can’t they make the numbers on the bottles bigger?
I’ve had so many people msg me saying they never even knew the numbers were there and they’ve used the stuff for years
are these safe on acrylic paints?
yes, absolutely
the example in the video was painted with water based acrylic paints
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides thanks!
Thanks for showing us but you messed up the U.
♥️👍
what did you use for that blue? it really sings
The blue is Pro Acryl blue
It’s lovely isn’t it?
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides it really is, what about the gold? That looks awesome too
@@maxd11111 you know, I really can’t remember. I just quickly painted it up to slap a transfer on. I think it was Classic Gold from Darkstar miniatures
Good tutorial, but how would you adapt this to large transfers like the Forge World custodes sheet? The microset dries too fast to get them in position and i actually just ruined a nacelle on my Caladius and have to redo it because I tried to remove the transfer
Thanks man
So, I guess my advice is keep it wet.
Which I know sounds a bit flippant but it’s really not meant to be.
While you’re working with the transfer and getting it into position you need to be aware that the microset is always trying to dry out. For big decals especially, I’ll use a big brush and make sure it is always wet with microset. That way, if the decal starts to stick you can give the brush a little squeeze and it’ll release some more fluid and release the decal again. There is always a bit of a race against time with these things though, so planning the position first is key. Have a plan where you want it. Set the model so it’s at the best position to let you get to the area as easily as possible.
Finally, if you do find the decals has stuck in the wrong position. Don’t jab at it hoping to free it up again, as that will likely tear or damage it.
Your best bet is to flood the decal with microset and you should find it will release and float on the surface again.
Sorry to hear you ruined one on your Caladius. We’ve all been there and it’s so annoying. Sometimes you do just get difficult model and stuff doesn’t go right.
Try and see it as a positive and a learning experience and just try again.
Hope that helps a bit.
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides thanks for the reply. I tried again and it came out better. A follow up though: since you let the micro set dry before using the micro sol, would that mean it would be okay to let it sit for a while? Say you have an errand to run and don't have the time to wait to do the micro sol, would I be able to come back later and do the micro sol then? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
@@benrichardson5662 no such thing as a dumb question man.
And the answer is yes, it’s absolutely fine to leave as long as you like between the steps. The only requirement is you leave each step long enough for it to be fully dry before applying the next coat.
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuidesthe micro set says it's a decal remover too. Is this true? I'm considering redoing the decals and want to know if there's any chance of removing them cleanly because I am NOT scraping them off with a knife like the Internet suggests.
@@benrichardson5662 yes it is, to a certain degree.
It will only remove a decal if there’s still some of the plastic backing remaining.
Even then, it will only really soften it again, so you may need to do some scraping. I certainly wouldn’t recommend using a knife. My suggestion would be to use a wet cocktail stick / toothpick.
That will give you some abrasion whilst limiting the damage to the paint underneath. It won’t be perfect though.
Lastly, if you’ve applied the transfer using microsol (as directed in this video) you won’t be able to remove them using microset.
You see, microsol basically dissolves the plastic backing and just leaves the link of the transfer on the surface. That’s what gives the brilliant “painted on” look.
To remove them, you’d be better off painting over them
I know maybe this is not the best piace ti ask this but: how can one do an all-over shade in a vehicle and don’t make it look patchy?
I’ve found a color scheme i really like for My marines but to get it the last passage is two coats of Athonian camoshade over a Loren forest base.
For normal marines it’s fine (first ones were a bit patchy but now it’s mostly fine) but I have no idea on how to do vehicles, any tip you can spare?
Good question, so the answer is you apply it from top down and in logical sections.
For example, if it has body panels with clear edges, then apply the wash a panel at a time. You don’t have to wait for each panel to dry before you start the next but just make sure you don’t apply so much wash that it starts to run out of control. By working top to bottom you’ll be working with gravity which should help you control the amount on the model too.
Have a look at the Titan I painted, ‘cos I mentioned washing vehicles in that
ua-cam.com/video/jVAty0c7_5E/v-deo.html
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides thank you for the link!
I remembered heard you speak about something like this but could not find where.
And also thanks for the quick explanation, i’ll try it out as soon as I can
No problem
let me know how you get on :)
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides I’ll let you know as soon as I get to paint my outriders :)
My Microsol reactivated my paint - any ideas?
That’s unusual. What paints are you using and how long did you leave between painting your paint and applying the microsol?
You could remove all doubt and apply a thin layer of varnish to seal the paint first before using the microsol and microset.
I've always believed that decals should be applied to a gloss surface to minimise the risk of silvering . There is a school of thought that the Micro Sol is just diluted vinegar
If you feel the surface isn’t smooth beforehand, it certainly wouldn’t hurt to apply a gloss varnish to make it smoother. I wouldn’t say it’s necessary though, as you can see from the result here.
In terms of Micro Sol being dilute vinegar, I’m couldn’t really say. It’s clearly an acid of some degree, so it could be vinegar based I guess.
Whatever it is, it works a treat 👍
Looks upside down tbh
That’s Ultramarines for you. 🤣
Best way to do transfers: don't do 'em! ;)
Where’s your sense of adventure man?
Transfers are awesome 👍🏻
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Adventure? I thought this is a hobby to relax and not get heart attacks from! ;) But seriously: currently I'm to burned out to even pick up a brush. Or fire up the airbrush. Or even get anything done. (besides the uHH). But you did a good video and I'm just a grumpy old grognard ;)
@@SunDancerGE no worries, hope you get your hobby mojo back soon. 🤛🏻
@@BrushstrokePaintingGuides Thanks... it must be here somewhere... maybe I need to clean up the hobbyhomeofficeroom ;)