I have to get mine done on a 2008 Jetta At a shop of course. Cost about 1800 with the three mounts plus labor. This video was very helpful to explain it
@@vw_2.5 Volkswagen shops overprice everything. A shop tried to get me to spend 3000 dollars for the transmission valve body, which can be done relatively easily for a thousand.
@@The_Fool_Above_The_Sky 3k for a valve body for the 2.5? You can get rebuilt ones that are built correctly by a certain trans company that sell them for like $590 minimum I think it’s called street smart transmission and could possibly do it yourself just have to jack up the front end both sides and drop the filter and pan and a few bolts takes a few hours.
@@vw_2.5 Would you recommend buying a refurbished one for 400 from eBay or buying one from them for 900? I've heard that VW can chew through valve bodies relatively quickly.
Nice video what are the symptomes you need engine/transmission mount? I have a 2008 vw rabbit 2.5 260xxxkm and when im at a stop and press gas after theres a big/mid like punch idk if its transmission or mounts
@@conscienceyt3494 I also have a valve body problem. Its a pain in the ass but as long as you take your foot off the gas as the gears shift, then it wont feel as bad.
my rabbit knocks hard every now in then when changing from drive to reverse. the knocks are so hard it's cracking my window . can this be the motor mounts ?
Sure thing Jack and jack stands Sockets, I like deep well sockets but not required. 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet depending on sockets ratchet long extensions 3/8 and 1/2 drive T25 for shrouds and coolant tank 10 mm 13 mm 16 mm 17 mm for wheels 18 mm Torque wrench Thread locker blue Breaker bar or pneumatic impact for wheels I’ll add a link to the description for the parts as well.
Under/behind the rocket panel, there's jack points at each end, it's where the pinch rails have a L shaped flat spot. It's where I lift both of mine for 99% of my maintenance
Great video! What did you think of the poly dogbone insert you replaced? Were you really that unhappy with it or do you think the flex you were getting was from the other mounts being worn?
@@ajetauto5592 Other than those benefits I want to replace mine to help keep my flexpipe from failing. I've owned both a Mk4 and Mk5 and between the 2 I've done 3 flexpipes. I'm thinking a stiffer dogbone mount would help but I haven't been able to decide between an insert or just replacing the whole mount with a solid rubber version.
@@nickl2852 did you ever do yours? I’ve had sane issue with flex pipes in my mk5 and I got the 034 inserts to put in with a good dogbone . I want to see if I can just do those and not replace all mount
Definitely isn't. Good eyes. Had the same thing happen to me when I did mine. Easy enough to fix, but easy enough to miss too. Not the end of the world but it will cause it to wear faster.
The steps will but the parts will not. One of the mounts on the driver side only works for the manual transmission. You will have to get the ones for the automatic.
Hey, thank you for your reply. I got another question. I have this rattle that sounds center console, i replaced all the mounts(boy were the rear ones a chore) I suspect a bad driver side CV axle joint. I cant afford OEM. Have you replaced them and if you have what is the next best thing?
When it comes to cv axle’s I’ve not used oem cause they are expensive. I’ve only replaced one and haven’t had any issues. Rattle sounds with suspension can also be other things to check like sway bar end links. Those are more common and much cheaper. You said center console so if it’s an interior rattle the center vents tend to have prices that beak a lot inside. I’ve had to replace three. The tray helps fix that. I’ve made videos in that. Don’t know if I answered your questions correctly but hope that helps.
My man, thanks for the video! My engine rattles (metallic noise/tiny squeak) when accelerating. After each gear change it rattles again and then when the RPM goes higher it goes away but repeats onto the next gear. It also happens when it’s decelerating and goes away after 5 seconds when the car has stopped. It’s so embarrassing to hear… would these be the engine mounts?
Could be something internal in the engine, something on the pulleys, or a failed dual mass flywheel if it is a manual. Would not know for sure unless you do more investigation pinpointing where the sounds are coming from. High performance flywheels rattle a little in neutral naturally like on my stage 2 GTI. Bad motor mounts make more of a clunk sound and shake the engine a lot in gear changes. You feel it harder to make any smooth gear changes and rev matching is a lot harder with bad motor mounts.
@@Righteouness hmm yea if it’s right side like passenger side could just be a pulley that needs to be replaced. Tensioner pulley can rattle and squeak when bad.
thanks for this great work ! can you tell us about the feeling before and after ?...i bought a used touran 2007 and i don't know if it needs a now mounts or not ... did you see a big difference before and after ? ... thanks from france !!
When I drive my jetta 2.5 and am in any gear if I floor it and let go of the gas the car clunks back and forth. Do you think that is failed motor mounts?
Part of it. A lot of that has to do with the a failed dogbone mount. It’s the one underneath the engine connecting the engine to the subframe. You can get an insert to help resolve it in rubber of metal. Replacing that bushing is a bug job and not in this video. That’s why I had a rubber dogbone insert from Usp Motorsport. I upgraded to the billet aluminum but beware there will be added vibration with that. Helped the clunk of the engine moving so much.
I don’t remember you will have to look it up. I think I mention all the specs in the video. And there are three with different torques. I don’t know which one you are wondering about.
I do not know I have not worked on an automatic one. I’d say look really well at what you have on your car and know for sure what your looking for. Worst case you need a send something back and get different ones. Ecs is pretty good with letting you know if stuff fits or not. You can just ask them on live chat and they will show you what you need if you can’t find it.
@@ajetauto5592 thank you for the quick response! do you think it would be possible to NOT remove the bracket from the motor and just replace with a new mount?
@@purehills no unfortunately. the bracket has to come out with the mount in order to replace it. Comes out as one pice for the passenger side, replace the mount, and then put the whole thing back in as one piece. There is just not enough room. Like I said in the video you will need to jack the engine up a couple of inches on that side in order to have enough room to get it out.
I used all new bolts. You could use the old ones but the mounts I got came in a kit with all new hardware. I would recommend use if new just for the added insurance.
Finally. Thanks for the vid man. I have had no luck finding a good replacement guide for all three mounts on a 2.5l VW.
best video ive seen on doing the mounts took me days to find a good video.
well done, I respect people who know how to work with their hands.
I have to get mine done on a 2008 Jetta At a shop of course. Cost about 1800 with the three mounts plus labor. This video was very helpful to explain it
$1800?? For 3 mounts that will take an 1-2hours max to do… way over priced.
@@vw_2.5 Volkswagen shops overprice everything. A shop tried to get me to spend 3000 dollars for the transmission valve body, which can be done relatively easily for a thousand.
@@The_Fool_Above_The_Sky 3k for a valve body for the 2.5? You can get rebuilt ones that are built correctly by a certain trans company that sell them for like $590 minimum I think it’s called street smart transmission and could possibly do it yourself just have to jack up the front end both sides and drop the filter and pan and a few bolts takes a few hours.
@@vw_2.5 Would you recommend buying a refurbished one for 400 from eBay or buying one from them for 900? I've heard that VW can chew through valve bodies relatively quickly.
@@The_Fool_Above_The_Sky go look up street smart transmission they rebuild them correctly and have warranty’s
Nice video what are the symptomes you need engine/transmission mount? I have a 2008 vw rabbit 2.5 260xxxkm and when im at a stop and press gas after theres a big/mid like punch idk if its transmission or mounts
My guess is what I have which is valves In transmission from like 2-3 gear it lags behind goes high rpm then drops down
@@conscienceyt3494 I also have a valve body problem. Its a pain in the ass but as long as you take your foot off the gas as the gears shift, then it wont feel as bad.
I have same intake as you and that's when I noticed the vibration in the engine
Thank you, I have a Jetta sport wagon I need to do the same job
Great video thank you 🙏🏼
my rabbit knocks hard every now in then when changing from drive to reverse. the knocks are so hard it's cracking my window . can this be the motor mounts ?
Amazing
Hey man, could you give me a rundown of all the tools I’ll need to perform this DIY? It would be extremely helpful for me
Sure thing
Jack and jack stands
Sockets, I like deep well sockets but not required.
3/8 or 1/2 ratchet depending on sockets
ratchet long extensions 3/8 and 1/2 drive
T25 for shrouds and coolant tank
10 mm
13 mm
16 mm
17 mm for wheels
18 mm
Torque wrench
Thread locker blue
Breaker bar or pneumatic impact for wheels
I’ll add a link to the description for the parts as well.
@@ajetauto5592 awesome. Thank you so much, this was a big help. Installing BFI stage 2 solid 85a poly mounts on my 07K passat next week!
WOULDOF BEEN NICE TO KNOW THERES A HOLE TO GET TO THE PASSENGER SIDE REAR MOTOR MOUNT BOLT IN THE SIDE OF THE TIRE WELL BEHIND PLASTIC
That's why we're watching the video 😂
Did you lift your car from the middle of the side rail? Having a hell of a time figuring out easy lift points on these beasts
Under/behind the rocket panel, there's jack points at each end, it's where the pinch rails have a L shaped flat spot. It's where I lift both of mine for 99% of my maintenance
Great video! What did you think of the poly dogbone insert you replaced? Were you really that unhappy with it or do you think the flex you were getting was from the other mounts being worn?
I’m was pleased with it. I’ve now done it to three cars. Not too rough but better response from engine to wheels and it feel more connected.
@@ajetauto5592 Other than those benefits I want to replace mine to help keep my flexpipe from failing. I've owned both a Mk4 and Mk5 and between the 2 I've done 3 flexpipes. I'm thinking a stiffer dogbone mount would help but I haven't been able to decide between an insert or just replacing the whole mount with a solid rubber version.
@@nickl2852 did you ever do yours? I’ve had sane issue with flex pipes in my mk5 and I got the 034 inserts to put in with a good dogbone . I want to see if I can just do those and not replace all mount
@@conscienceyt3494 I haven't yet but anything should help.
Nice clear video! How long did it take you to do all three mounts?
I’d say 2-3 hours
Thanks for the video it is very good...I would like to ask the tork off the bolts.I have a vw golf v fsi.thanks
As far as I know the torque for an fsi is the same as the video on my 2.5
Gearbox mount is not aligned with the engine....@5:06...its cross, not parallel with engine.
Definitely isn't. Good eyes. Had the same thing happen to me when I did mine. Easy enough to fix, but easy enough to miss too. Not the end of the world but it will cause it to wear faster.
Does this apply to the automatic 2.5 as well. Looks similar. Wonder if the kit In your description will work for my car
The steps will but the parts will not. One of the mounts on the driver side only works for the manual transmission. You will have to get the ones for the automatic.
👍👍👍
Hey, thank you for your reply. I got another question. I have this rattle that sounds center console, i replaced all the mounts(boy were the rear ones a chore) I suspect a bad driver side CV axle joint. I cant afford OEM. Have you replaced them and if you have what is the next best thing?
When it comes to cv axle’s I’ve not used oem cause they are expensive. I’ve only replaced one and haven’t had any issues. Rattle sounds with suspension can also be other things to check like sway bar end links. Those are more common and much cheaper.
You said center console so if it’s an interior rattle the center vents tend to have prices that beak a lot inside. I’ve had to replace three. The tray helps fix that. I’ve made videos in that.
Don’t know if I answered your questions correctly but hope that helps.
@@ajetauto5592 the rattle sounds metalic. But ill be sure to check the things you mentioned. By the way what brand cv axles did you buy?
Hey, so i have a mk5 Jetta gold 2.5 but i have an automatic transmission will these parts work for me, they look identical to the ones I have.
The ones I bought say manual only. Two of the mounts would be the same. The one on the driver side would be different for an automatic.
My man, thanks for the video! My engine rattles (metallic noise/tiny squeak) when accelerating. After each gear change it rattles again and then when the RPM goes higher it goes away but repeats onto the next gear. It also happens when it’s decelerating and goes away after 5 seconds when the car has stopped. It’s so embarrassing to hear… would these be the engine mounts?
Could be something internal in the engine, something on the pulleys, or a failed dual mass flywheel if it is a manual. Would not know for sure unless you do more investigation pinpointing where the sounds are coming from. High performance flywheels rattle a little in neutral naturally like on my stage 2 GTI. Bad motor mounts make more of a clunk sound and shake the engine a lot in gear changes. You feel it harder to make any smooth gear changes and rev matching is a lot harder with bad motor mounts.
@@ajetauto5592 it is on the right hand side of the engine. It sounds like a tin can rattling. It’s an auto also.
@@Righteouness hmm yea if it’s right side like passenger side could just be a pulley that needs to be replaced. Tensioner pulley can rattle and squeak when bad.
thanks for this great work ! can you tell us about the feeling before and after ?...i bought a used touran 2007 and i don't know if it needs a now mounts or not ... did you see a big difference before and after ? ... thanks from france !!
When I drive my jetta 2.5 and am in any gear if I floor it and let go of the gas the car clunks back and forth. Do you think that is failed motor mounts?
Part of it. A lot of that has to do with the a failed dogbone mount. It’s the one underneath the engine connecting the engine to the subframe. You can get an insert to help resolve it in rubber of metal. Replacing that bushing is a bug job and not in this video. That’s why I had a rubber dogbone insert from Usp Motorsport. I upgraded to the billet aluminum but beware there will be added vibration with that. Helped the clunk of the engine moving so much.
same mine does this so anoyying and sometimes start up sounds abit rough idk whats wrong
How much torque do you have to adjust the screw of this mount motor?
I don’t remember you will have to look it up. I think I mention all the specs in the video. And there are three with different torques. I don’t know which one you are wondering about.
How many miles were on your car when you replaced them?
About 160,000 miles
On ECS tuning it says parts only for manuals do these fit an auto ?
I do not know I have not worked on an automatic one. I’d say look really well at what you have on your car and know for sure what your looking for. Worst case you need a send something back and get different ones. Ecs is pretty good with letting you know if stuff fits or not. You can just ask them on live chat and they will show you what you need if you can’t find it.
how hard was it to get the bracket into the new motor mount? does it require a press?
It was super easy no press needed. it just sits in there
I thought the same way at first. It slides out and in. I wish I had that in the video.
@@ajetauto5592 thank you for the quick response! do you think it would be possible to NOT remove the bracket from the motor and just replace with a new mount?
@@purehills no unfortunately. the bracket has to come out with the mount in order to replace it. Comes out as one pice for the passenger side, replace the mount, and then put the whole thing back in as one piece. There is just not enough room. Like I said in the video you will need to jack the engine up a couple of inches on that side in order to have enough room to get it out.
Did you use the same bolts or new?
I used all new bolts. You could use the old ones but the mounts I got came in a kit with all new hardware. I would recommend use if new just for the added insurance.
What we’d site did you get the peace
Ecs tuning I think
It looks easy job. But It's complicate and tohgh job.