Hi Jeremy! I am a newbie in foamcore and your videos helped me a lot! Yesterday I built this house from scratch, following your measurements and instruction, I really can’t believe my creation, the house looks so good!! 😭 I’m just waiting for my Mod Podge to dry and I can’t wait to paint the details. Thank you so much, 6 years later this video still helps so many people!! I can’t wait to build more thanks to you!!
Hi, a little 3 year too late, but did you enjoy using your proxxon? I just made this house just by using a cutter, and am contemplating to buy a proxxon. That you for sharing your experience!
I'm going back through old videos (it's the holidays as I write this), and I can't help but think that this particular video sounds like a Red Green skit.
Super easy build! It's only my third time making any serious foam builds and I whacked two of these out in as many days. I've decided to make them modular and seperate the doors and windows to be attached to different locations using tiny magnets. Supurb video.
DUDE! Just when I thought you couldn't come up with more ways to simplify building stuff....you DID! You always make things so much easier to visualize building and therefore taking the scary "I don't know what I'm doing" out of the build. Thank you so much for your videos! SERIOUSLY! :)
Really like this build. Simple, not to time consuming and still looks super good. Have you ever thought about making these houses modular? I'm thinking of copying this build, but have the roof as a separate piece that is not glued on. Then you could easily stack two "base" houses on top of each other and then put the roof part on top to have a 2 story building. Would love to see your take on some modular buildings.
Awesome. I build most 40K terrain but what you make always gives me great ideal and nice way to save time. It helps me get the most out of my building time. I can now filling up a 6 X 4 foot table, in under a day or two of work. Between your channel and two other channels I commonly watch, I have built seven tables worth of terrain for my local game shop.
Yes, they paid for supply both foam and paint. They also have the tools as I do not want to buy them here. Lastly, it is the only place in South Korea I can find to paly all the games I run or play ( Pathfinder, D & D, Vampire, Warhammer 40k, ect..). Can not wait to get back states side so I be work on my own stuff.
Here I am struggling with balsa wood and cereal boxes, trying to prep for my next DnD session, then I see how epic my life could be with a Proxxon and some XPS! Thank you for the fantastic tutorials :)
Hi Jeremy. I just wanted to give you a head's up - I have a friend who is a college art professor who specializes in sculpting with all kinds of materials. He tells me that using your hotwire tools on extruded polystyrene requires EXTREMELY GOOD veneration. He said that even doing it outside was probably not good enough unless you had a very strong fan blowing it away from you. He said that you are probably hurting your body by breathing in the fumes from that stuff indoors. You might want to check into this - he and his art-professor buddy both sounded pretty alarmed when I talked about it. Be safe!
To be honest I've looked into this pretty extensively. XPS foam is very harmful if it is combusted. It is pretty harmless however if it is melted. When you burn it, it emits a black smoke that is quite hazardous, when it is melted at the correct temperature it does not, it simple gives off some minimal white smoke that is mostly water vapor. It's important to have some ventilation, but at this scale open windows and a fan is more than sufficient, as long as you are using the tool correctly and not allowing the XPS to combust and create black smoke. This is why you will often see me immediately turn the machine off after a cut so any residual XPS does not burn. This is exactly why you can purchase a foot pedal for the machine. The other risk with XPS foam when using insulation as the source is that some brands, specifically older ones contain a flame retardant chemical called Hexabromocyclododecane that can be harmful when ingested or when you have excessive long term skin contact. Most manufacturers have stopped using this, DOW and Foamular no longer contain it in most areas. You can access the MSDS sheets for any brand you use to confirm. The biggest risk when using XPS foam is fine particulates and dust. Breathing those in is incredibly harmful as once those particulates enter your lungs they will never break down. This is WHY I use a hotwire instead of a saw and sanding. When I have to sand it I always wear a dust mask and vacuum up all the particles before removing it. A lot of people over react about this, mostly based on misinformation or based on applications that are not comparible. Artists and prop builders often work on a much larger scale, using handheld tools, and hot KNIVES which have a greater risk of COMBUSTION of the foam. Doing small amounts of cuts, on the correct material, with the correct tools and techniques is not a risk. No more so than sitting in traffic to go by the stuff is. If you'd like to avoid it based on their comments, that's fine. But I feel completely comfortable using the tools, materials, and techniques that I do.
Source:This information is from 'Risk Assessments for Secondary Schools' and is published by the Consortium of Local Education Authorities for the Provision of Science Services (CLEAPPS), Brunel University, Uxbridge, England UB8 3PH. Brunel is one of the premier technological universities in the UK. This is a publication advising English science teachers about classroom hazards. Process:The cutting of expanded polystyrene by means of a wire heated to about 300 degrees C. Hazards:Harmful: hazardous by inhalation; Irritant: Styrene fumes can irritate the eyes. Risk Assessment:Harmful: Styrene fumes are produced as the material degrades when overheated. Styrene has a MEL (Maximum Exposure Limit) of 100ppm (parts per million, 8 hour Time Weighted Average) and 250ppm (15 minute reference period). However, the process is safe with up to 5 cutters in simultaneous use in a well-ventilated workshop. Irritant: The eye irritation becomes severe only at exposures of 200ppm and above but eyes may water at levels below the MEL. Control Measures:Small, hand-held cutters may be used in well ventilated conditions. Large, bench-mounted types may require local exhaust ventilation: a special assessment is necessary. The ventilation required to control the toxic hazard will also control the irritant one. Further information:Small quantities of styrene fumes are produced as the material degrades when overheated. The odour of styrene can be detected at very low levels, well below the MEL of 100ppm. The fumes can cause dizziness and children are particularly vulnerable to high concentrations. However, measurements while using a hand-held cutter have shown that with reasonable ventilation and moderate care, styrene levels in the operator's breathing zone are less than 10% of the MEL.The process does not require the material to be heated beyond its melting point. In practice, because the wire has a very low thermal mass, its temperature tends to rise very rapidly when it is not being constantly cooled by the feed of the material being cut.On a basic bench machine with no means of quickly disconnecting the heating power to the wire, residual material adhering to the wire at the end of the cutting operation will quickly overheat and, in small quantities, degrade to produce styrene fumes. Effective ventilation must sweep these away immediately. It is important to ensure that the equipment operates at the lowest temperature that allows free cutting. Controlled electrical heating is desirable to obtain an even wire temperature. If smoke is given off, the wire is too hot. Some bench hot-wire cutters have a foot switch which, if correctly used, will virtually eliminate the production of harmful fumes.
From the Hotwire Foam Factory FAQ Q: Are the fumes that are given off when cutting polystyrene foams (EPS or XPS foams) with hot wire tools dangerous? A: Ventilation is always strongly suggested, but the smoke that you may encounter while cutting EPS foam is primarily CO2 and water vapor, which are far less harmful than other common art products like aerosols and paint thinners. The toxic values are far less than wood-smoke, which contains tars, resins, creosote, and acetic acid. The dust from cutting with saws and sanding EPS foam is more harmful than the fumes encountered while cutting foam with a hot wire tool. Always wear a good quality dust mask when saw cutting or sanding polystyrene foams. To get the polystyrene foams to actually combust and burn you have to have an extremely hot fire, much hotter than our tools get, burning directly on the foam to begin with. Always check with the manufacturer of the foam you are using to make sure that there are no health or safety hazards when cutting their foam with hot wire tools. Keep in mind when you read the Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for the foam you look up that they often are referring to possible safety hazards when manufacturing foam, not cutting it. You can call our toll free number at 1-866-735-9255 and we can give you the tech-support number for DOW which manufactures Styrofoam. They told us that the fumes from cutting their foam with a hot wire are not toxic, but cutting should still be done in a well-ventilated area. (On the other hand we have had many personal testimonials claiming that they have become addicted to foam cutting. Could it be the fumes or is foam sculpting is way too much fun?)
The roof beam hanging off the edge is correct for older buildings. Especially if there is a loft. You hand a pully on the beam to haul stuff up to the loft. Livestock barns are built this way to haul hay bales up to the 2nd story.
"Only 3 hours" Yeah, I remember making my first near-professional quality LARP shield with an intricate design with depth and detailed work to make it look like authentic wood and metal. Took 50+ hours. I no longer make LARP anything anymore.
A simple run by with a hairdryer gets rid of the wisps. Figured I'd pass along some information from my humble collection of acquired knowledge. Hope it helps.
Black Magic Craft I use Eva foam because it's uber durable and flexible. But watching your vids make me jealous of how much more diverse you can be with it.
My only input would be beef up the corners.And a strip along the insides. So you could pick up the piece and have an interior set up with it too. Beefier corners and walls would make it a lil safer to pick up and move around. But yeah even with a steady hand and a knife you could still probably crank out one or two in a day if you went to task.
I love watching you make these props. I Would like to try and make a Christmas village using these techniques. My question is how durable are these XPS builds. Would they stand the rigor of being packed away for 10 months of the year every year?
Around 9:35 when you're cutting the roof strips, the wire of the Proxxon is glowing pretty brightly. What was causing that, do you know? Some weird combo of temperature and material thickness?
Great video and lovely house. Any advice for a noob to the hobby? Been into gaming for a long time but not wargamming and just thinking about making my first board. Advice on cutting home without the tool you are using? Especially thin strips
No, it has to be extruded polystyrene not expanded polystyrene....unless you want your building to be made of a bunch of little balls that crumble and fall apart.......you need the good stuff.
could you cut the building along the roof and timber lines to open it up for access to the interior? Or would the foam not support that level of modular-ness?
You could....and you'd be left with a tiny tiny playable area that you can barely reach into. There's no point really on buildings this small. If you are dead set on playable interiors, make a floor tile for the building to sit on and remove the roof AND walls so you can at least use the space.
Прекрасный домишко и увлекательный процесс его создания. Лайк, естественно. Остальные произведения тоже хороши, поэтому - с меня подписка. ;-) Успехов вам!
Not yet. I've wanted to for a long time but have avoided because I don't have modular river pieces made yet, and I want those first for sizing....but I never seem to get around to making those. Maybe I should just make the bridge already.
picked up one of the proxxon tables through your affiliate link. Really want to grab one of the Shifting Lands guiders but that shipping cost is kinda prohibitive. Wish they had a US based distributor. :( Thinking of trying to build a jig myself, or bribing a family member who's a contractor to make me one...
This is a video dedicated the product: ua-cam.com/video/V5N7FFwS2KM/v-deo.html The info for this is also in the video description above. If you're ever wondering about something I used in the video check the video description as there is usually important and info and links there. Cheers
What's your advice for someone who's struggling to cut straight (using a utility knife)? I've been practicing, but not doing great. Can I somehow fix it with texture, etc?
Um I have noticed something. Surely a cottage should have a window or at least a hole. You could make a wood effect shutter type of thing to cover it. Other than that you are a genius. I love your vids. I've only got into them in the last few weeks. I can't get enough.
There isnt a link for the Green Stuff rolling pins in on your Essential Supplies page. AND on that note...What MM rolling pins do you use for the stone texture? They have multiple sizes.
once i put hot glue on my fingers, it burned my skin pretty bad ... do you have glue gun with controllable temp or just simple one , what tips for choosing one and dangers about it ?
I use a single temperature glue gun (hi temperature). Low temperature is pretty useless most of the time is it hardens almost immediately. You just have to avoid getting hot glue on your fingers. It will happen once in a while, but unless you're being really reckless you should not be seriously injuring yourself with a hot glue gun.
iHelloway ngl you kinda get used to it, newer high temp glue guns also run hotter than older ones. It’s good to replace it every few years or so for prime use. They also leak and can be wasteful so keep an eye on how long it’s plugged in or is running for
@@Master_Chef_Mattman The king of random has a really great video on how to make one for fairly cheap, i'd really recommend it. just search styro slicer on youtube
@@Master_Chef_Mattman you can also check out the foam sheets at craft stores, it might be a bit more expensive per sheet, but i know places like Michael's have thin sheets of foam (some are adhesive on the back too!) which would probably work
Hi Jeremy! I am a newbie in foamcore and your videos helped me a lot! Yesterday I built this house from scratch, following your measurements and instruction, I really can’t believe my creation, the house looks so good!! 😭 I’m just waiting for my Mod Podge to dry and I can’t wait to paint the details. Thank you so much, 6 years later this video still helps so many people!! I can’t wait to build more thanks to you!!
Fantastic!
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial thanks for replying Jeremy! And for the encouragement
I bought my proxxon hot wire cutter through your link bud, and I love your video's and I've been watching about a month now.
Hi, a little 3 year too late, but did you enjoy using your proxxon? I just made this house just by using a cutter, and am contemplating to buy a proxxon. That you for sharing your experience!
I just found out your channel and I can’t stop watching your videos! Thank you so much for all the tutorials, you’re amazing!
I'm going back through old videos (it's the holidays as I write this), and I can't help but think that this particular video sounds like a Red Green skit.
I'm almost done with my first terrain, it's the fountain you made ! I'm doing the grout and mudpudge tonight !
This cottage is the next on the list :)
Super easy build! It's only my third time making any serious foam builds and I whacked two of these out in as many days. I've decided to make them modular and seperate the doors and windows to be attached to different locations using tiny magnets.
Supurb video.
DUDE! Just when I thought you couldn't come up with more ways to simplify building stuff....you DID! You always make things so much easier to visualize building and therefore taking the scary "I don't know what I'm doing" out of the build. Thank you so much for your videos! SERIOUSLY! :)
Thats the goal!
Awesome! I have been meaning to get some mass produced cottages for a rapid city (Kings of War campaign). Perfect.
Yea, this is a great way to make an arsenal of small "scatter" buildings for wargamming.
Thank you! I've been searching for a non-boring channel about miniature terrain building, and wasn't having much luck. This is a great channel
Thanks....I try not to be boring....mostly.
For the hot glue wisps, if you stick the finished product into the freezer, they break off quickly and easily.
It also carries the benefit of you being able to reheat it later on a day where you don't feel like cooking.
Or blast it with a hair dryer. They'll go away.
Really like this build. Simple, not to time consuming and still looks super good. Have you ever thought about making these houses modular? I'm thinking of copying this build, but have the roof as a separate piece that is not glued on. Then you could easily stack two "base" houses on top of each other and then put the roof part on top to have a 2 story building. Would love to see your take on some modular buildings.
Awesome. I build most 40K terrain but what you make always gives me great ideal and nice way to save time. It helps me get the most out of my building time. I can now filling up a 6 X 4 foot table, in under a day or two of work. Between your channel and two other channels I commonly watch, I have built seven tables worth of terrain for my local game shop.
Dang... hope they are at least paying for the supplies.
Yes, they paid for supply both foam and paint. They also have the tools as I do not want to buy them here. Lastly, it is the only place in South Korea I can find to paly all the games I run or play ( Pathfinder, D & D, Vampire, Warhammer 40k, ect..). Can not wait to get back states side so I be work on my own stuff.
Cool. Hurry back! So you can build more!
Awesome! lucky game store.
Here I am struggling with balsa wood and cereal boxes, trying to prep for my next DnD session, then I see how epic my life could be with a Proxxon and some XPS! Thank you for the fantastic tutorials :)
Hi Jeremy. I just wanted to give you a head's up - I have a friend who is a college art professor who specializes in sculpting with all kinds of materials. He tells me that using your hotwire tools on extruded polystyrene requires EXTREMELY GOOD veneration. He said that even doing it outside was probably not good enough unless you had a very strong fan blowing it away from you. He said that you are probably hurting your body by breathing in the fumes from that stuff indoors. You might want to check into this - he and his art-professor buddy both sounded pretty alarmed when I talked about it. Be safe!
To be honest I've looked into this pretty extensively. XPS foam is very harmful if it is combusted. It is pretty harmless however if it is melted. When you burn it, it emits a black smoke that is quite hazardous, when it is melted at the correct temperature it does not, it simple gives off some minimal white smoke that is mostly water vapor. It's important to have some ventilation, but at this scale open windows and a fan is more than sufficient, as long as you are using the tool correctly and not allowing the XPS to combust and create black smoke. This is why you will often see me immediately turn the machine off after a cut so any residual XPS does not burn. This is exactly why you can purchase a foot pedal for the machine.
The other risk with XPS foam when using insulation as the source is that some brands, specifically older ones contain a flame retardant chemical called Hexabromocyclododecane that can be harmful when ingested or when you have excessive long term skin contact. Most manufacturers have stopped using this, DOW and Foamular no longer contain it in most areas. You can access the MSDS sheets for any brand you use to confirm.
The biggest risk when using XPS foam is fine particulates and dust. Breathing those in is incredibly harmful as once those particulates enter your lungs they will never break down. This is WHY I use a hotwire instead of a saw and sanding. When I have to sand it I always wear a dust mask and vacuum up all the particles before removing it.
A lot of people over react about this, mostly based on misinformation or based on applications that are not comparible. Artists and prop builders often work on a much larger scale, using handheld tools, and hot KNIVES which have a greater risk of COMBUSTION of the foam. Doing small amounts of cuts, on the correct material, with the correct tools and techniques is not a risk. No more so than sitting in traffic to go by the stuff is.
If you'd like to avoid it based on their comments, that's fine. But I feel completely comfortable using the tools, materials, and techniques that I do.
Source:This information is from 'Risk Assessments for Secondary Schools' and is published by the Consortium of Local Education Authorities for the Provision of Science Services (CLEAPPS), Brunel University, Uxbridge, England UB8 3PH. Brunel is one of the premier technological universities in the UK. This is a publication advising English science teachers about classroom hazards.
Process:The cutting of expanded polystyrene by means of a wire heated to about 300 degrees C.
Hazards:Harmful: hazardous by inhalation; Irritant: Styrene fumes can irritate the eyes.
Risk Assessment:Harmful: Styrene fumes are produced as the material degrades when overheated. Styrene has a MEL (Maximum Exposure Limit) of 100ppm (parts per million, 8 hour Time Weighted Average) and 250ppm (15 minute reference period). However, the process is safe with up to 5 cutters in simultaneous use in a well-ventilated workshop. Irritant: The eye irritation becomes severe only at exposures of 200ppm and above but eyes may water at levels below the MEL.
Control Measures:Small, hand-held cutters may be used in well ventilated conditions. Large, bench-mounted types may require local exhaust ventilation: a special assessment is necessary. The ventilation required to control the toxic hazard will also control the irritant one.
Further information:Small quantities of styrene fumes are produced as the material degrades when overheated. The odour of styrene can be detected at very low levels, well below the MEL of 100ppm. The fumes can cause dizziness and children are particularly vulnerable to high concentrations. However, measurements while using a hand-held cutter have shown that with reasonable ventilation and moderate care, styrene levels in the operator's breathing zone are less than 10% of the MEL.The process does not require the material to be heated beyond its melting point. In practice, because the wire has a very low thermal mass, its temperature tends to rise very rapidly when it is not being constantly cooled by the feed of the material being cut.On a basic bench machine with no means of quickly disconnecting the heating power to the wire, residual material adhering to the wire at the end of the cutting operation will quickly overheat and, in small quantities, degrade to produce styrene fumes. Effective ventilation must sweep these away immediately. It is important to ensure that the equipment operates at the lowest temperature that allows free cutting. Controlled electrical heating is desirable to obtain an even wire temperature. If smoke is given off, the wire is too hot. Some bench hot-wire cutters have a foot switch which, if correctly used, will virtually eliminate the production of harmful fumes.
From the Hotwire Foam Factory FAQ
Q: Are the fumes that are given off when cutting polystyrene foams (EPS or XPS foams) with hot wire tools dangerous?
A: Ventilation is always strongly suggested, but the smoke that you may encounter while cutting EPS foam is primarily CO2 and water vapor, which are far less harmful than other common art products like aerosols and paint thinners. The toxic values are far less than wood-smoke, which contains tars, resins, creosote, and acetic acid. The dust from cutting with saws and sanding EPS foam is more harmful than the fumes encountered while cutting foam with a hot wire tool. Always wear a good quality dust mask when saw cutting or sanding polystyrene foams.
To get the polystyrene foams to actually combust and burn you have to have an extremely hot fire, much hotter than our tools get, burning directly on the foam to begin with. Always check with the manufacturer of the foam you are using to make sure that there are no health or safety hazards when cutting their foam with hot wire tools. Keep in mind when you read the Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for the foam you look up that they often are referring to possible safety hazards when manufacturing foam, not cutting it.
You can call our toll free number at 1-866-735-9255 and we can give you the tech-support number for DOW which manufactures Styrofoam. They told us that the fumes from cutting their foam with a hot wire are not toxic, but cutting should still be done in a well-ventilated area. (On the other hand we have had many personal testimonials claiming that they have become addicted to foam cutting. Could it be the fumes or is foam sculpting is way too much fun?)
Essentially, doing a moderate amount of foam cutting with the right tools is far less harmful than sitting around the campfire one evening.
So.....
Well, I have mad respect for your research cops! I'm glad you are taking care of yourself!
Awesome job! Just got my proxxon from ur link, and ordered the rollers too.
Keep up the great work! Ur a true inspiration!
Nice, you will love it
Love this! Looks great.
Great video! Your channel is now part of my regular Friday night viewing. Totally sold me on the Proxxon. Just ordered one through your link!
Thanks :)
I got Proxxon wirecutter as x-mas present... ME HAPPY!
The video is almost 2 years old as I am watching it for the first time, and still learning so much. Thanks!
Love to see what a 3 hour speed build would look like now after an extra 4 years mastering your craft.
Definitely the last thing I need to make me get the proxon table and greenstuff rollers. Awesome build.
Worth it
Great video. Awesome tip about using the rings on the roller to keep the embossing pattern straight. Get well soon.
Just wished I realized that's what they could be used for in my first roller video.
Great idea. This cottage looks fantastic and the steps are simple to follow in building it.
The roof beam hanging off the edge is correct for older buildings. Especially if there is a loft. You hand a pully on the beam to haul stuff up to the loft.
Livestock barns are built this way to haul hay bales up to the 2nd story.
"Only 3 hours" Yeah, I remember making my first near-professional quality LARP shield with an intricate design with depth and detailed work to make it look like authentic wood and metal. Took 50+ hours. I no longer make LARP anything anymore.
A simple run by with a hairdryer gets rid of the wisps. Figured I'd pass along some information from my humble collection of acquired knowledge. Hope it helps.
Tairen Wolfe Imagine applying tacky glue on those wisps and painting them green then adding some flocking to give the illusion of vines
smart guy . amazing structure with so many details
Awesome build. I see this and makes me consider changing the materials I use to build with.
I mean if you aren't using xps foam you should give it a shot.
Black Magic Craft I use Eva foam because it's uber durable and flexible. But watching your vids make me jealous of how much more diverse you can be with it.
why not both?
Black Magic Craft no reason not to!
Just found this channel, fantastic work man! Really great to see you do all these awesome stuff.
Cheers
this is perfect for a quick town..... Awesome work!!
Totally, great way to quickly populate a table.
i actually liked the roof pieces hanging wild off the edge
My only input would be beef up the corners.And a strip along the insides. So you could pick up the piece and have an interior set up with it too. Beefier corners and walls would make it a lil safer to pick up and move around. But yeah even with a steady hand and a knife you could still probably crank out one or two in a day if you went to task.
'aboot one centimeter...' Damn Canadians. Love your channel.
I love your Videos. So many interesting ones about a variety of topics.
Good video man. Definitely helps when youre in a crafting slump/block.
I love the build. I can't wait to get the rollers. The music that you used went really good with the video.
Thanks. I think you will like those rollers and make lots of cool stuff with them
Great build matey.....and that foam cutter is brilliant
Thanks :)
This is great. Just built a hotwire table. Gonna try this.
Have fun!
Totally amazing 😍 best tutorial ever 🏆🥇
great quick way to get bricks love it have one on order thanks
I love watching you make these props. I Would like to try and make a Christmas village using these techniques. My question is how durable are these XPS builds. Would they stand the rigor of being packed away for 10 months of the year every year?
yeah, xps is very durable.
Around 9:35 when you're cutting the roof strips, the wire of the Proxxon is glowing pretty brightly. What was causing that, do you know? Some weird combo of temperature and material thickness?
The power is turned up high and only a small portion of it is touching foam and absorbing heat.
These video was good hope to see more of these type. Thanks for the content!
cheers
Love this , getting my foam out
Bruh.....yes sir!! I mean yes sir!! No other vids needed! Thanks!!!!
Great video and lovely house. Any advice for a noob to the hobby? Been into gaming for a long time but not wargamming and just thinking about making my first board. Advice on cutting home without the tool you are using? Especially thin strips
Nice job! Learning a lot from your vids and just ordered a proxxon too!
Not one window... Depressing.
JK. That's an awesome speed build!
Could you use regular styrofoam to do this ? It looks amazing.
No, it has to be extruded polystyrene not expanded polystyrene....unless you want your building to be made of a bunch of little balls that crumble and fall apart.......you need the good stuff.
Black Magic Craft alright thank you very much 👌
could you cut the building along the roof and timber lines to open it up for access to the interior? Or would the foam not support that level of modular-ness?
You could....and you'd be left with a tiny tiny playable area that you can barely reach into. There's no point really on buildings this small. If you are dead set on playable interiors, make a floor tile for the building to sit on and remove the roof AND walls so you can at least use the space.
thanks for your awesome videos! they really motivated me to make some terrain and buy one of those rollers! keep up the good work!
Damn this looks good. Your speed builds look better than my slow and deliberate builds. 😃
Nice! And, that's a much better hat for you. I can't rock a snap brim.
I see that old school Fiend Folio sitting up there, noice😉
You're a mage! It's look amazing!
Thank god it's not a 3 hour video! :D
MrGlickClick can you imagine...a video about watching paint dry :D
There's a market for that...there is a market for everything on youtube.
You're a true wizard !
More of a warlock really
Прекрасный домишко и увлекательный процесс его создания. Лайк, естественно. Остальные произведения тоже хороши, поэтому - с меня подписка. ;-) Успехов вам!
Very cool man, Great job. right now I'm working on a city gate cuz for some reason I always need a city or castle gate to siege lol.
Awesome! Can you show us how to make that well and those trees?
I buy the trees...nobody got time to make trees
That was amazing.
Nicely done sir.
thank you :)
What kind of finish is your Polyurethane? Is it high gloss, mat or something else?
Thanks a lot for sharing your skills. Dope t-shirt btw!
Thanks :D
It looks amazing. Have you done a big stone bridge or anything like that yet? I can't remember.
Not yet. I've wanted to for a long time but have avoided because I don't have modular river pieces made yet, and I want those first for sizing....but I never seem to get around to making those. Maybe I should just make the bridge already.
Where can you get foam like that? I checked at Lowes but only found insulation foam that had paper glued to both sides.
Lowes should carry DOW insulation XPS without paper on it. But varies by region. Home Depot usually sells the pink Foamular version that I use a lot.
You are a machine! Looks amazing
thanks :)
Black Knight Games In Hamilton in the Southern GTA Carries the greenstuff world rolling pins! ($28.00 CAD). Great Vid!
picked up one of the proxxon tables through your affiliate link. Really want to grab one of the Shifting Lands guiders but that shipping cost is kinda prohibitive. Wish they had a US based distributor. :( Thinking of trying to build a jig myself, or bribing a family member who's a contractor to make me one...
Hi, good job. I have a question : the roll you used to texurize bricks, can i found it in some e-shop? How?
This is a video dedicated the product: ua-cam.com/video/V5N7FFwS2KM/v-deo.html
The info for this is also in the video description above. If you're ever wondering about something I used in the video check the video description as there is usually important and info and links there. Cheers
Thank you man! You have saved my life! Lol
Fantastic build man!
Whoa. I'm really into this.
great idea to show a quick build!
great build too, good job!
thanks :)
you are the best artist
What's your advice for someone who's struggling to cut straight (using a utility knife)? I've been practicing, but not doing great. Can I somehow fix it with texture, etc?
wow sehr gut gemacht
Great build! I have one question though: Does the foam return to its original shape after a long time passes? I am asking for the stonework...
I don't think so. Even if it did your paint pattern would stay.
Thanks for the reply!
I'm sitted down, realxing, and just finished my Jager!!! Super relaxed lol
You should get an airbrush. It'll change your crafting life. If only to prime with it.
I want to. Although I don't think it would be much help for priming since I prime with mod podge.
Black Magic Craft I hadn't thought of that though people have said you can thin it. I'll test it and let you know.
I personally prime foam with water-based acrylic spray paints by Liquitex. The work wonder!
that shirt is amazing
Great video man. What do you use to spray your models with at the end? I am in the UK so it is probably called something different here
loved everything ! well except bead for chimney ... if you wanted to make a classic one, u could have made a square hole and thats it
Um I have noticed something. Surely a cottage should have a window or at least a hole. You could make a wood effect shutter type of thing to cover it. Other than that you are a genius. I love your vids. I've only got into them in the last few weeks. I can't get enough.
Awesome! can't wait to see more!
thanks :)
You should try just cutting a deep square in the chimney for a build and just paint it black to show depth.
Very impressive!
There isnt a link for the Green Stuff rolling pins in on your Essential Supplies page. AND on that note...What MM rolling pins do you use for the stone texture? They have multiple sizes.
The patterns that have multiple sizes work best on foam if you use the larger variety. I don't use the "small" patterns.
Congrats for your work. I'll patreon you from next month !
how do you clean the brushes you used for the dry brush?
once i put hot glue on my fingers, it burned my skin pretty bad ... do you have glue gun with controllable temp or just simple one , what tips for choosing one and dangers about it ?
I use a single temperature glue gun (hi temperature). Low temperature is pretty useless most of the time is it hardens almost immediately. You just have to avoid getting hot glue on your fingers. It will happen once in a while, but unless you're being really reckless you should not be seriously injuring yourself with a hot glue gun.
iHelloway ngl you kinda get used to it, newer high temp glue guns also run hotter than older ones. It’s good to replace it every few years or so for prime use. They also leak and can be wasteful so keep an eye on how long it’s plugged in or is running for
Awesome build! Thanks for the tips!
How would you go about cutting the Styrofoam that thin without the hot wire?
You can’t
Ok:( Thanks for responding so quickly
@@Master_Chef_Mattman The king of random has a really great video on how to make one for fairly cheap, i'd really recommend it. just search styro slicer on youtube
Ok. Thank you for the comment!
@@Master_Chef_Mattman you can also check out the foam sheets at craft stores, it might be a bit more expensive per sheet, but i know places like Michael's have thin sheets of foam (some are adhesive on the back too!) which would probably work
Awesome build!
thanks :)
what kind of saw is it that you use for your cutting needs? it looks badass
It's a hotwire cutter by Proxxon. Check www.blackmagiccraft.ca for more info on all the tools and supplies I use.
Awesome! Thank you so much for another great vid!
cheers
you probably said this in a video, but where did you get the guide for the proxxon? The stock one is not the best but yours looks awesome.
and i found it lol
Is...is that the Necronomicon Ex Mortis I see in the bottom right of the screen at the start of the video???
Its really just the box I made to hold pencils for my players
Black Magic Craft still, cool prop
that feeling when your greenstuff rollers and mod-podge are in the mail and you have terrain to texture and paint. 😢
i can improvise some stuff with other tools but HOW do i get a stone texture without the roller?
The slow way.....drawing each grout line by hand.
I can feel myself walking to that cabin in the air tonight, oh Lord.