Serge Lutens - Chergui | perfumer Reviews
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- Опубліковано 12 тра 2020
- Reviewing Chergui by Serge Lutens.
Send me samples to review here:
Aaron Terence Hughes LTD
57 Waybridge Industrial Estate
Salford
M50 1DS
www.aaronterencehughes.co.uk
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Music: Sleepdebt - I C U - Навчання та стиль
Absolutely agree with you on the natural material regulations, I'd rather have a big danger sign with a skull on fire to warn you about the critical toxicity of a touch of real oak moss and have a beautiful perfume than having a weak watered down synthetic crowd pleaser #16754. There's no need to use dangerous materials or potentially dangerous in high amounts but banning something because one peron in a million would get itchy seems foolish.
It doesn't come down to 1 person in a million being itchy. 4% of the population is already sensitive to fragrance and some of the raw materials that are being banned lead to sensitization over time meaning more and more people would develop allergies from them (potentially even yourself). So why not just be responsible from the start and not have to worry about such things in the future? I'd rather have safer products that I can spray all day long rather than potentially dangerous ones that may ruin my experience over time.
@@mrgrimmer7997 those shouldn't wear perfume wtf
@@stefanromanescu724 They wouldn't know beforehand. Its called allergen sensitization. You could wear a perfume 1000 times and develop an allergy on the 1001 wear. If it contains certain now banned allergens that is more likely to occur, which is why ifra bans are actually more reasonable than most perfumers will have you think.
@@mrgrimmer7997 we are adults, when we get an alergy whe should stop using it, you can't destroy art for few people, it's the same with food, the allergens are written on on the package and haven't seen a producer changing his succes formula and ruining his business for 2% of the customers
@@mrgrimmer7997 again perfumers shouldnt have to ruin their works of art for weirdos that cant do elimination test regarding allergens themselves and stop buying what irritates them. Like he said yall really enjoy being in a nanny state instead of making your own decisions. It's pathetic and sad
One word. Bravo! Your opinion about reformulations is spot on. Some fragrances are true works of arts and should remain untouched. In my opinion just raise the dam price and keep it as antique status but keep it on the market.
Well said!
Love Serge Lutens creation! Thank you for your time to review the Chergui 💐☺️❤️
You described this beautiful scent perfectly!
Really enjoyed the review as much the scent! ❤
Aaron, I LOVE this review. You are THE BEST. Thanks Love you
I love this fragrance. Thank you for this review 😍
Before I even listen, commenting because I was really hoping you would review this one. Excited! I adore this.
yes. Its lovely
What IFRA has done to the fragrance industry is shamful and depressing, so many beautiful fragrances have been ruined by their interference. I am hoarding my bottle of the old formulation of Chergui, it is gorgeous. I have tried the updated version and it is still lovely, but neutered compared to the old juice. I have been wearing this since my early 30's but I have always loved fragrances that others have considered "mature" hahaha, I think I was the only highschooler running around draped in vintage Shalimar and Bal a Versailles lol
This scent is my go to, I love the softer projection. It means ppl have to search it out on you, rather than it shouting at them. I'm completely with you on the IFRA points. It's fine to put all sorts of crap into our food, but something gives 2 ppl an itch, "BAN IT!". Great unicorn channel Aaron 🦄❤️
I love your authenticity !
Enjoyed your review ❤️
Thank you so much!
I forgot how much I loved your videos Aaron!
Agree completely on the IFRA banning ingredients based on SOME people having a reaction to the ingredient. Some people can experience anaphylaxis from peanuts, yet products containing peanuts are still widely available. They just include a warning, as in the same way that you suggested... Anyway, great video as always Aaron! Keep up the good work!
Yes, I wonder there ought to be medical records of people actually getting into hospitals from allergic reactions to peanuts and other foods. How many such medical records apply to people getting allergic reactions to perfumes?
The studies seem pretty rigged as well. The parfum guy has a video about oakmoss futering Dana and she explains why it actauly is BS with the whole allergic reactions.
I agree with her that it is just so they can sell lab made stuff
LOVE how your hair changes drastically throughout your videos
The dry down of Cherguie is just Heavenly Devine 😍😍😍.
Thanks for a great review 🙏💖 love your hair❣❣☺☺
Couldn't agree more about your thoughts on ifra Aaron. Enjoyed your take on this!!
Thank you Chris
Chergui is a fantastic scent, I enjoy it so much .. I do have a sample with me and spray it now and then. Really classy scent
I love the bit about your opinion on IFRA restrictions. I have several non IFRA conformant fragrances and have had not a single issue with them.
Serge Lutens-Ambre Sultan is my favourite from this house, probably my favourite amber based fragrance ever. I hope you will review it one day Aaron🙏
I will review more from this house as it was really lovely.
Serge Lutens is a great house. Borneo 1834 is a wonderful patchouli based fragrance to try if you can get your hands on a sample. If I hadn't used all of mine up I'd send you some! I think Vetiver Orientale was a misstep for the house (the notes clash), but overall they are wonderful.
I’d love to see a whole video about the IFRA regulations and maybe some info on what people could do to have some deregulation occur so that artists are not being held back. I fully agree that I’d rather see more warnings on the box about potential issues in a formulation than get a subpar fragrance. I’d also rather pay more for quality than pay less for something watered down or lesser quality ingredients. Maybe you could even do that video with other perfumers to get the message out and try to get some change happening…
I really dont understand why the people who are allergic to certain perfumes just dont wear them. I know people who are allergic to peanut butter and they dont force everyone around them to eat fake peanut butter
I'm thinking about getting this fragrence I appreciate your opinions and love your channel
Beautiful review.
If this bottle pleased you, original Chergui (or any Chergui with a batch code prior to 2010) will blow your mind and ruin you forever. It’s literally more of everything that you identified. It’s thicker. Especially the hay, incense, honey, and sandalwood.
In my opinion, every version after 2010 is watered down and light reminders of the original version. This is also the case with every scent from this house (but with different reformulation dates of course).
tnx
How interesting that you perceive this as a masculine gentleman's scent, for a board room! I (a woman) own the reformulated version and when I wear it, it feels very feminine, sweet. I perceive it as a sugar flower in my mind, gauzy, hay and sepia colored. It has the most beautiful wafts and I don't have any problem smelling it all day. Thank you for your review, it's so fun to see how perfumes wear on others and their perceptions as well. Have a wonderful day!
Something about it reminds me of Dior Addict
Bois du Portugal is a classy gentleman's fragrance. This one not so much. It's good but not very masculine.
Serge was my gateway into niche. I knew someone who had many serge fragrances three of which I thought were revolting. Which I won’t name here because I haven’t worn them. I just didn’t like them in the bottle since then I have accumulated 15 different bottles. this was one of my most Confusing fragrances. I love/hated it. It’s so unusual with that green tobacco leaf and frankincense combination. The dry down is wonderful my mother absolutely loved it so I gave it to her and it made me sad so I bought another bottle lol I wear it seldom but it’s definitely one of the most unique fragrances I’ve ever owned.
So thank you for reviewing this I appreciate your expertise. Reviewing a fragrance like this that is so complex and polarizing i’m sure it’s challenging. The fact that you didn’t think it was strong when you first put it on was shocking to me because I found it to be very strong in the beginning, and the dry down Balanced. But the thing about surge almost to one have a longevity problem. I solve that by constant re-application! Don’t have to do that with this particular one now and I think people would be offended. If I did it’s one of the ones that is not for everybody which only makes me love it more. my ugly baby.
Just purchased my first 1.69 bottle today as a blind buy with hopes for a lovely tobacco I can get behind.
Serge has been challenging and I have not kept all his offerings but when he gets it right, it's truly right.
Cheers!✨
How was it? Did you like it?
This is my favorite bedtime sent. Love your reviews. So pleased that you haven't smelled "everything" on the market. This makes me so curious about your creations. They must be so personal and unique void of any references from other brands . I'm going to check you out.
No never tried anything from this. Ive been stuck in a lab for over 10 years creating stuff.
Please review Santal Majescule from this house. I'd love your take on it. Great review!
Yes, completely agree. Cigarettes have warnings because of cancer risk, and that applies to huge %'s of people, but they still perfectly sell that deadly stuff in all of those cigarette boxes and brands, just with that warning. Why with fragrance ingredients would be any different, it's likely nowhere near as risky, or in any case orders of magnitude less people face any true risk from fragrance ingredients compared to cigarette smoking. So warning labels for fragrances would make a lot more sense. The analogy with cigarettes actually suggests the fragrance regulations are not truly medical-based, but more business-based.
Another thing I agree with is the fact that Chergui at least version I smelled in a Galeria Kaufhof here in Germany, is kind of weak, not particularly strong. Even other Serge Lutens fragrances are clearly stronger, e.g. Ambre Sultan, or Santal Majuscule.
I hear some of Anthony Hopkins accent in your voice mate...cornish accent slipping through...love it!
You would have loved the original! Super powerful and lasting into the next day. I bought a 100 ml bottle in 2011 and used it all up as my signature scent within a few years. I was in my late 20s and my female friends friends used to say “you stink!” (What did they know? Nothing, no taste and too young) But men loved it on me (I am a woman). Now, 10 years later, I’ve just ordered a new 50 ml bottle for the first time since the Shiseido takeover and am expecting it to be watered-down a bit. 🤞I have a pretty good niche collection with a lot of great fragrances, but nothing has ever matched the original Chergui for me. It was perfect and everything I still want now that I’m about to turn 40.
Haven’t smelled the reformulation, but there simply is nothing like the OG Chergui. Hopefully someone can send you in a vial.
I have a bottle of this from at least 15 years ago. It was purchased in nyc and given to me as a gift❤️
Great review 👍 i love this fragrance i was luckey to find an original bottle of this i hate the look of their new bottles do not know if they even reformulates the fragrance it self i hope not
Agree with everything you say mate,with regards to ingredients & IFRA 👌🏻
Love love love Chergui, only recently tried it myself. 😍
I got tingles when you smelled the arm hahaha, having them on your behalf now
Love to hear your opinion on some L’Artisan Parfumeur Paris. Really enjoyed the few I’ve sampled so far.
Vanille Absolument is amazing
I own the original and it lasts and powerful. I can’t spray more than two sprays. I agree that it’s masculine but when I wear it people think it’s feminine.
I do like this one a lot too 🙂 great review too. And I do fit into that age group now damn it, only kidding. Thanks mate
So do I jon. :)
Has IFRA ever held a conference or anything discussing their decisions or answering questions?
its like red wine and hay... this is what it remind me of... like in a good way, like:
you're sitting in a barn, drinking some red wine, there's a heater in the corner that's providing some warmth, and the farm hand is smoking cigarets in the distance other side of the barn.. You can smell the leather of the saddles hanging on the wall, and they hay, and wood of the barn, but as you take a sip of your red wine - all the smells come together in your glass...
Chergui
Lol
Beautiful!
Would you say it leans more masculine? I tried back to black today but I believe SL is more superior but I haven’t smelled it and I was wondering if it’s gender neutral with femme and masc nuances
watching more regent ATH videos, Aaron seemann to having changed mind? but why? his statement about a more adult approach here was pretty well put 👍
This scent is beautiful and glad you like it, the house does make some other good scents
I will defiantly try some others.
Pls make a review of nishane ani and nishane hacivat 🥰🤗
If they Change the formula then change the name of the fragrance.
Why not disregard IFRA completely? I'm not European so I don't know the 5w+1h of IFRA
It feels lousy as a consumer to know that the scent you identify with and wear with love can be changed from a company cutting costs. How much more do they make if far less people buy it? IFRA seem very heavy handed to ban ingredients that may potentially possibly might cause a reaction. Theres less oversight in food and drinks. Seems a bit backwards.
You should get your hands on the original! It is a monster! 2 sprays max.
I had this several years ago when it was sold at Barney’s. However I enjoyed Angelique Noir by Guerlain much more.
To me Angelique noire is like Eau Duelle but I’d probably buy Eau Duelle over it next time, and I find Chergui to be more formal yet cozy and much less vanillic. I do have both but love Chergui much more.
I love this fragrance. I still have a bottle that's around a decade old but it only has the tiniest amount left in it, so unfortunately I can't spare it. The juice is almost black at this point.
The projection and lasting power is indeed very strong from the old formulation, I haven't tried the more recent version but if you're describing it as light and not long-lasting then it's definitely changed a lot.
I had to apply it 3 times. So it want the same. Video unicorn said it used to be monstrous. And 2 sprays filled the room. This lasted about 1 hour on my skin. Still lovely though
@@AaronTerenceHughes Unfortunate 😔
I sent you a sample of Tauer L'Air du Desert Marocain by the way, I'd love to hear your views on that. It's also a bit of a monster on projection (I have to be careful where I store the bottle!)
Chergui has been reformulated unfortunately but it's still really strong at least the bottle I have burns my nose and lasts a long time! Maybe that sample is a newer batch but I love the smell a lot. It's unfortunate they don't just leave the fragrance alone
Sad isn't it.
Very sad, thats why we all just have to buy ATH fragrances because they last a long time and smell like sex and heaven
Your face is glowing..beautiful just beautiful skin dear
I just did a face mask. I worked half a day so had half a day off.
Ifra is in the pockets of companies who make the aroma chemicals.
How does this compare to Naxos?
Loove hair color!
Rogue Perfumery isn’t IFRA compliant for these reasons. Their motto is “Bureaucracy Destroys Art.” The real oak moss in Mousse Illuminee is fantastic. Would it be possible to have a non-IFRA line with extra warning labels?
The assessment / compliant side is really massive. They have to be IFRA compliant or the insurance does not cover them. I can make things that are not IFRA compliant But I cant sell them.
Aaron Terence Hughes I’m sure that is frustrating. But it could also be looked at as an opportunity to branch out to different raw materials or chemicals. Especially if someone has a background in chemistry!
Fahrenheit is a shell of what it was in the 1990s. It used to last all day, now it's a skin scent in 2 hours and the price keeps going up.
Ifra might sound like a good idea at first glance, but you are so right. They shouldn't mess with art and we really don't need nanny regulations everywhere. It's like removing the hazelnuts from hazelnut cookies because of allergies. If i shouldn't eat those cookies, well, it is my decision to avoid that problem. I just can't demand that hazelnuts are forbidden for everyone.
I agree. I would rather choose what to do with my body then be forced. I think extra warning would be better then banning something
Wow, I literally bought this today. Will be interesting to hear your opinion
Amazing. I hope you smelt it with me.
Aaron Terence Hughes i did! It does smell amazing. Not sure when the reformulation occurred, but my batch is from 2015. If someone else knows if it was reformulated after I would be happy to send a sample to you
@@paracinac 2012 I think
consumer awarenes relies on consumers knowing enough about the product and the ingredients. i get your view but its fine imo if you try to see it from an average joe schmoes perspective. great video as always
I Maybe wrong but I think Rogue Perfumery does not conform to IFRA guidelines, especially where oakmoss is concerned and maybe a few other natural raw ingredients
They would have to to sell legally.
Yes, I was going mention Rogue. You're right, he states that he's not IFRA compliant on his website. I have his sample pack and a full bottle of Mousse Iluminée, which is a fantastic oakmoss-heavy 80s-style powerhouse of a fragrance. They're all great!
What is happening to fragrances?? I understand ifra banning ingredients ruining a lot, but why is the STRENGTH always compromised? Like, why is IFRA banning all the ingredients that make perfume strong, full of sillage and lasting power? Or why cant synthetics last longer
I wonder if either you got a watered down sample or if Serge Lutens has poor quality control standards because I had a 2019 batch of this fragrance about a year ago and that stuff was monstrously strong on my skin. 2-3 sprays would easily create a nice scent bubble around me and the longevity was consistently 18-20 hours. The fact that you sprayed it that much and can barely smell it is rather odd. I also had one from 2010 and the smell and performance of it then was identical to the 2019 one I had.
Hello.I need to buy new version and is it a good if you know from longevity or projection?
FIRST COMMENT! Chergui is an AMAZING fragrance. Definitely one of my favourites!
Its amazing
Do Mancera Red Tobacco please; a first impression and 30 minutes after applying :D
Haha..yeah def wait 30 minutes on that one
didn’t hear u pick up that hay note
Hello, when was it reformulated? I have a bottle and would be my pleasure to send some to you
Do so!
Serge Lutens - Ambre Sultan. would love your take on it, Aaron.
Maybe a fragrance from lalique next time? Hi to all unicorns 🦄🤗
Oh never heard of that house before. Il check them out
Please do one on La Couche du Diable
IFRA Restrict natural compounds and force high priced proprietary synthetics. Yup that sounds about right. It's already dominated the food industry with GMO's and whatnot. Surprised it took this long to get around to cosmetic materials.
I have heard great things about Initio parfums, would love to hear your thoughts on that house, oud for greatness, side effect, rehab, atomic rose and psychedlic love are the most talked about:)
You mentioned some real bangers there, I love initio. Also blessed baraka is amazing from them
@enigmaticstatic 7 side effect is my favourite aswel, it's an addictive kind of smell
Do Ultra Zest!!! 😉
Sadly I think they also remove the raw material to increase their profit, which is pretty sad in my opinion as you loose the initial art that was created. I do not think art should work like this. I'm willing to pay more for art. Art and luxury come at a cost, but again I don't think most people consider perfumery as an art...
Il never sell out to a large company. The firstling they would do is make me remove the Oud and rose I use. Or lower it massively
Love this fragrance a lot, but I definitely think it smells weaker then it used to do. It’s such a shame when this happens.
Massive shame James,.
I agree, people should be able to decide for themselves. No country should have the right to remove your access to something under the guise of "keeping you safe"
Chergui is amazing! I also have Arabie from them and it has a delicious Middle Eastern vibe to it.
I love middle eastern fragrance massively
But I love all your videos.
Such a shame this fragrance does not last anymore
So is the IFRA just one of those organizations that create the demand for their work? IE, just create regulations for the sake of regulations because otherwise they would be out of a job?
I can't imagine that there's any sort of growing allergen problem in the world of perfume that needs solving...
I agree massively.Sad isn't it
I have actually heard speculation that some people think they are in cahoots with some of the companies that produce synthetics and aromachemicals. Those companies stand to make ALOT of money if IFRA keeps banning certain ingredients. I have heard that some people involved in IFRA are profiting from these companies. I don't know if this is true or not but it is an interesting idea that maybe certain people are banning ingredients to line their own pockets rather than for safety reasons. This is one of the reasons that I like living in the US. We don't have to follow IFRA. We have several indie fragrance companies here that poo-poo on the IFRA regulations and just don't sell their product in Europe.
Completely agree, some fragrances a had 2 years ago are like piss water now because they have been re-formulated tobacco vanille is a prime example it’s was an absolute powerhouse and since the rights were sold to Estée Lauder it’s really tame now! Such a shame as I love power houses, I literally want something to offend people it’s that strong,
Mine do that. The dark oud based ones last and stick to clothes.
Yes currently have tobacco vanilla and oud which I really like, and you sent me samples of ozone which I think is absolutely wonderful and I got a sample of your oud, I thought that was a little patchouli heavy for me but it’s a absolute monster of a scent, also a good one you might like to review would be tom fords ombré leather it’s a power house of a leather scent, love to wear it to piss my work colleagues off!
Yes Estée Lauder certainly ruined a few gems :( :( and what pisses me off is they keep the same pricing. I’ve still got an original Tuscan leather and tobacco vanille but I’m scratching my head over my new bottle of oud wood to be honest
Damn right, my old tobacco vanille is still a monster and a bottle I bought last year really isn’t anywhere near as good, I have tried Costa Azzurra also which has been demoted and is now 120 rather than the 240 it used to be, and it’s still good but just not as good, but it’s ok for 120 now. It’s a real shame that some of these firms are “watering” down the fragrances.
@@optimusmorton Tom Ford should have put something about that in his sales contract. All we can do now is make it clear on review sites/social media that we aren’t happy. Means possible less sales for them I guess 🤷♂️ I’m over them for now anyway lol. I wonder if they’ve messed with the female leaning scents. I love champaca and cafe rose on my wife.
I have the original and it projects. It is a masterpiece. I would send you a decant but my bottle is almost empty. IFRA is ruining the fragrance industry!
I aggee massively.
Oh that’s a shame because I love mine but I don’t wear it often as it settles into a skin scent rather quickly for me. When it’s freshly sprayed it is divine
WHAT IS TOXIC IS IFRA!
I've heard if one has Herod you've done better than this particular scent. True or false information?
Herod doesn’t really smell like this. Chergui smells more like Enigma from Roja. I kid you not I own both and I got the vibes when I first smelled Roja’s. Composition is eerily similar.
And why can't warnings on packaging *also* finally eliminate animal testing. The fact is, no one has any way of knowing who will react to what, and no amount of torturing animals will change that. Put a warning in/on the packaging, and that removes liability completely. "May cause skin irritation," etc. The animal testing is all about liability; it goes away when the person agrees to purchase and use having been legally noticed of potential dangers. This is already done with cigarettes and alcohol among other products. Such a simple solution to end a barbaric practice that should've ended a long time ago.
Cheers my friend.
Join The Progress exactly! And the stupidest thing is, tests on animals prove NOTHING for its behavior on humans. This is just absurd to be going on in the 21st century.
+muminka Exactly; it has become an industry where there is money flow that is really sickening; a cheap renewable resource (animals propagating) that are then used as an alleged liability mitigation. Having a background in law, if someone wanted to sue based on perfume injury, any half-headed argument can counter any claim that a test on an animal proves it could not injure a person.
It is such a sick industry on so many levels. I have honestly come to believe that it's simply a form of legalized sadism at this point; or some sort of sick religious animal sacrifice thing. From a medical and legal standpoint it is irrational and illogical. From an ethical point of view it is dark ages or ancient-style barbarism, like sacrificing goats for satan or whatever. One would have to be a sociopath to find any of it acceptable for any reason at all.
I'm not even vegan nor an animal activist, so people can't use my debate as an "excuse" that I'm "biased" or whatever (which is sickening that that even happens; as if caring for animal's welfare is somehow political or partisan). My argument is about what should be common human decency based on our point in evolution where we realize that compassion is one of our highest achievements...if not "the" highest achievement.
Cheers.
I need to hear your feelings about Roja Amber Aoud
You're so unique. Please thoughts on feminine fragrances!
Very true. IFRA has completely killed off creativity and innovation with it's idiotic rules. FU.. IFRA
Ah, I don’t know, I wouldn’t trust people to use logic to make rational decisions... for the most part, anyway. With the kinds of people that exist, I can’t blame companies for shielding themselves from any and all liabilities.
We all have to stop this Nanny state control of our lives. I am an adult and perfectly capable of making my own decisions. These regulations have gone out of control.
'thumbs up and subscribe, and all that bulls**t' 😆
10 sprays directly on the skin to get the smell ..... that’s a really bad sign.
Coronavirus!!!!! Anosmia!!!?!?!??? 😢🥺😭🤧
🤣🤣🤣为什么你讲话和配乐都好像魔术师在变魔术啊，好可爱
Nanny state is hardly the world we all live in. That was 20 years ago. Government knows everything about us. Rules regulations taxes on taxes. Buy out the small creative companies and control the market.
Lutens was not bought out by Shiseido. Lutens created a number of fragrances for Shiseido, starting with Nombre Noir in 1982. In 1992, Shiseido opened Salons du Palais Royal. Lutens created his famous Feminite du Bois to be sold exclusively at this Shiseido[-owned] store. By 2000 his fragrances were getting so much traction, Shiseido created a separate Lutens brand using existing fragrances like Feminite du Bois, Ambre Sultan, etc. More fragrances followed since.
From my limited experience with Lutens (I only own and regularly wear Fille en Aguilles, but have also warn/tried Chegrui and others), the fragrances last moderately but the silage decreases a lot.
Re: Ifra, they also ban raw materials that come from endangered or unsustainable sources, like certain types of oak moss - v rightly, in my opinion. In addition, it's not just about the wearer. People can get an allergic reaction just by coming into contact with someone. I don't want to be negative or critical, but perfume is a luxury - a luxury, I personally enjoy. But, is it worth sacrificing the health of others or trashing the planet for this luxury?
The way he pronounces brand and fragrance names is the best. His pronunciation is always waaaaay off.
thats good. because it shows that hes either not familiar with the frags or he never watched other reviews beforehand. hence, unbiased.
@@malayneum Your right. I have no idea how to pronounce this and I never watch any other review channels. EVER.
Sorry.
@@AaronTerenceHughes keep it that way. we had enough reviewers who are just parroting each other. you meanwhile are original and authentic 👍
malayneum never!!! I want to keep this channel like it is. Spelling and pronunciation mistakes included
Surprising that a perfumer would live ignoring Serge Lutens, the ultimate niche creator. He was the absolute first in the artistic perfumery and his style and name are legendary. I'm amazed, perfume lovers and fragrance creators don't study history...
Your very welcome to go to hundreds of channels out there. Thank you for watching