Great video, I had to go through a few to finally find a quality one. I love that you discussed what settings needed to be changed, compared them with the OG plate and had samples. That's literally everything I wanted to see. Now, I just wish BIQU had the frostbite on their amazon store, I only see the Glacier and various other ones they have but I really only wanted the Frostbite.. Bummer
For those looking for these on other printers, they are called "polyurea" build pates. Crygrip is the only one I note of that has a blue color to it, but otherwise they are all the same material.
Great video, thank you. I've been trying to get confirmation that I was using these plates properly and you explained it perfectly! Plate is great with PETG, I don't have to worry about glue or hairspray!
I bought the frostbite build plate, and it's not textured. They completely messed up and apparently they're quality control is bad for having the frostbite textured
I'm running the cryo plate that came out first from Biqu it's amazing on my P1S but i'm also running it in my Flashforge A5M and its works great on that also.
The faster heatup/cooldown times is worth it for me. I am going to pick one up. I wish I could use alcohol to clean it as my printing area does not have a sink, but I will survive :) I had not heard of these yet. Thanks!
Are we sure we need to set them to "cool plate" in the slicer? The kdeavi cool plates that are just like these disclaim they need to be set to textured pei plate. I'm trying to figure out which type is best.
3D printing energy consumption is low so these don't really make that much of a difference for overall electricity, but they do make a **little** difference. A PLA print goes from 100-120 watts on average to 60-80 watts on average. It's a different story when it comes to peak electricity, however. When warming up, a printer can draw 300-400 watts for five minutes or so because of the heat bed. But if only the hotend needs to heat up, it drops to 80-100 watts. For someone like me who has a lot of devices on a limited number of circuits in my apartment, it's a big deal. I no longer have to make sure certain things are off before I start a print. Other than electricity, what I like about these is that my enclosed printers are now better at printing PLA because there's no more heat creep. The bed no longer raises the ambient temperature of the enclosure. I got one of the blue Biqu cryogrips for my A1, a generic PEZ/polyurea plate for my A1 mini, and another generic for my Creality K1, and it's the best thing I ever bought for my printers. I can actually start all three up at the same time now instead of waiting for each one to warm up one at a time, and I can now even turn down the fans in my K1 and close the door and lid to keep the damn thing quiet
It doesent really offer anything new to what I already use which is the Bambu Cool plate, Engineering plate and also some textured PEI plates and the Ideaformer effect plates, I have some replacement stickers for the original Bambu plates and so would like to get those used up before getting any more low temperature plates. my first 3D printer did not have a heated bed and printed PLA just fine. I had seen claims that the BIQU plates could be used with zero heat, whether this is true I am not sure. I would like to see a comparison between these and the Bambu Supertack plates.
@@ThisisDD , the usage of the "q" letter in transliterations (like in the name "Qidi") is logical for Chinese people, but not for people speaking European languages. The "East" and "West" languages seem to be 100% unrelated.
So if you need to use the plate at 40 - 50c then whats the benefit? I mean a 10degree difference is not really anything. My printers all print at 55 degrees...this doesnt make a whole lot of sense for a lot of people
The frostbite plate can be used as low as 30 degrees Celsius for PLA. I think that's beneficial. The glacier plate is a harder sell for more advanced filaments because it still requires bed temps to be the same or higher than usual.
These plates are amazing. They grip extremely well and reduce your failure rate and the need for brims. So far it's night and day difference plus you use less power. Pays for itself
Great video, I had to go through a few to finally find a quality one. I love that you discussed what settings needed to be changed, compared them with the OG plate and had samples. That's literally everything I wanted to see. Now, I just wish BIQU had the frostbite on their amazon store, I only see the Glacier and various other ones they have but I really only wanted the Frostbite.. Bummer
For those looking for these on other printers, they are called "polyurea" build pates. Crygrip is the only one I note of that has a blue color to it, but otherwise they are all the same material.
Are the bambu’s supertack plates made from the same material?
Great video, thank you. I've been trying to get confirmation that I was using these plates properly and you explained it perfectly! Plate is great with PETG, I don't have to worry about glue or hairspray!
The Glacier also works wonderfully with PLA at 30 degrees
I bought the frostbite build plate, and it's not textured. They completely messed up and apparently they're quality control is bad for having the frostbite textured
I'm running the cryo plate that came out first from Biqu it's amazing on my P1S but i'm also running it in my Flashforge A5M and its works great on that also.
How would you be using a 256mm plate on a 220mm plate printer?
thank you for this. I was very curious about it. What games you play? I design terrain for Sc-fi. medieval and modern tabletop games.
The faster heatup/cooldown times is worth it for me. I am going to pick one up. I wish I could use alcohol to clean it as my printing area does not have a sink, but I will survive :) I had not heard of these yet. Thanks!
You can definitely print abs on the a1.
Is it really possible?
good stuff. Thank you.
This would be great for my A1, but I hope they make these for my Qidi's too.
Nice. I love using mine.
Are we sure we need to set them to "cool plate" in the slicer? The kdeavi cool plates that are just like these disclaim they need to be set to textured pei plate. I'm trying to figure out which type is best.
Hello, what plate setting are you using in Bambu Studio for the Frostbite? I'm thinking the Bambu SuperTack?
I use the Bambu Cool Plate settings.
@FigureFeedback wow fast reply you're awesome, thank you so much! I got two plates coming from AliExpress I'm excited.
Can't wait for Biqu to release these for non-Bambu printers. They say they plan to do so, but no word on when.
They are available for other printers. Cryogrip Pro is the only one that is blue. Search for "polyurea build plate."
3D printing energy consumption is low so these don't really make that much of a difference for overall electricity, but they do make a **little** difference. A PLA print goes from 100-120 watts on average to 60-80 watts on average.
It's a different story when it comes to peak electricity, however. When warming up, a printer can draw 300-400 watts for five minutes or so because of the heat bed. But if only the hotend needs to heat up, it drops to 80-100 watts. For someone like me who has a lot of devices on a limited number of circuits in my apartment, it's a big deal. I no longer have to make sure certain things are off before I start a print.
Other than electricity, what I like about these is that my enclosed printers are now better at printing PLA because there's no more heat creep. The bed no longer raises the ambient temperature of the enclosure.
I got one of the blue Biqu cryogrips for my A1, a generic PEZ/polyurea plate for my A1 mini, and another generic for my Creality K1, and it's the best thing I ever bought for my printers. I can actually start all three up at the same time now instead of waiting for each one to warm up one at a time, and I can now even turn down the fans in my K1 and close the door and lid to keep the damn thing quiet
It doesent really offer anything new to what I already use which is the Bambu Cool plate, Engineering plate and also some textured PEI plates and the Ideaformer effect plates, I have some replacement stickers for the original Bambu plates and so would like to get those used up before getting any more low temperature plates. my first 3D printer did not have a heated bed and printed PLA just fine.
I had seen claims that the BIQU plates could be used with zero heat, whether this is true I am not sure.
I would like to see a comparison between these and the Bambu Supertack plates.
I use them when I need a perfect adhesion, but sometimes they hold to hard FYI.
Bambu Lab will be releasing NEW build plate on 12 November. Maybe with the same material?
Thank you ;-)
Nice video 🙃
FYI, Biqu is pronounced closer to beeschoo, but not quite, the q is aspirated rather than a strong K sound.
Got it. Thanks!
@@FigureFeedbacktotally! ❤
As far as I can hear, there is no "s" sound in Biqu, but a soft "ch" sound. The very ending is a different story. I hear two sounds.
@@michaels3003yeah I'm describing it badly
@@ThisisDD , the usage of the "q" letter in transliterations (like in the name "Qidi") is logical for Chinese people, but not for people speaking European languages. The "East" and "West" languages seem to be 100% unrelated.
So if you need to use the plate at 40 - 50c then whats the benefit? I mean a 10degree difference is not really anything. My printers all print at 55 degrees...this doesnt make a whole lot of sense for a lot of people
The frostbite plate can be used as low as 30 degrees Celsius for PLA. I think that's beneficial. The glacier plate is a harder sell for more advanced filaments because it still requires bed temps to be the same or higher than usual.
Use smooth plate pei not cool plate
why?
What does this do for you? If the standard plate works, why do you need the cool plate? What do you gain? A few seconds of time? Save your money.
These plates are amazing. They grip extremely well and reduce your failure rate and the need for brims. So far it's night and day difference plus you use less power. Pays for itself