I gotta a small shed that I want to wire, I didn't even know where to start.. I still don't know but I can just watch your video for guidance when I'm ready to do it.
12 gauge wires can be challenging to twist correctly. There are some good videos on yt that show this. Get a good pair of linesman pliers and some scrap 12 gauge and practice. Alternatively, you could use Wago lever nuts and forget the hassle. All that extra sheathing is robbing you of space in the box. Use a deep box, 20 or 22.5 cu in. Use a green wire nut with a hole in it for ground, it saves space and eliminates the need for a separate pigtail.
Just watched your video and it's just what I need to get started doing my shed "Man Cave". I will be running a 30amp Generator for power however I was hoping to see you connect the wires from the Generator Connector to the Circuit Box because that's where I'm stuck right now. Can you tell me where you connected the wires? Thanks!!!
Any reason why you pigtailed the hot and neutral wires instead of putting both neutral wires on both of the silver terminals and both hot wires on both of the brass terminals?
What you're describing is a series circuit. In a series circuit, if one outlet goes bad, the rest of the outlets on that circuit stop working. In a parallel circuit (here), only the receptacle that goes bad stops working. This is why houses are wired in parallel. Imaging an outlet going bad in your kitchen while you're gone. If it was wired in series, your fridge would stop working even if the receptacle operating the fridge wasn't the one that went bad..
spratsprat yeah it’s actually smart to put pig tails on hot and neutral because if the outlet breaks or malfunctions power will still be fed to the other outlets or whatever else is on the circuit. If he attached the hot and neutrals to the outlet, everything after that outlet will not work .
Jeremy Mccomas Either way is acceptable! Totally a matter of personal preference. The arguments of one receptacle going bad the rest go out is typical. My statement is, more splices, more points of possible failure. One of the splices with wire nut fail, the rest of the circuit goes down. So really no difference except where you call the failure point. Make sense?
Nice video and good information, but I'd put the ground down. Code doesn't specify, but most equipment that needs it one way or another is designed for ground down. Also, OSHA recently made one of my clients, an electrical firm, change theirs to ground down stating one is less likely to break the ground connector off when unplugging if it's down.
Yes you can but you wouldn’t use a pigtail connection like he did because a GFCI outlet needs to have the “line” and “load” separate and wired onto the corresponding sides of the receptacle.
is this the same as rv style? i'm trying to wire to hook up to a rv power station. would i do the same and the only difference is just the plug-in adapter at the end?
Google analytics must be reading my mind, because I just bought the wiring and outlet boxes for an outbuilding today. But I will probably use drywall instead of car siding for most of it. Do you know how far out those boxes should sit for drywall instead of car siding?
even tho the plug is flipped , it was still a good video and worth a thumbs UP... (its called ground for a reason, otherwise if it was meant to be UP it would be called sky)
Great video! I'm doing the same and have a question, what kind of inlet (plug in) did you use on the outside of the cabin to connect the generator to the cabin? I am using 20 amp wiring. Thanks
I have 30 amp service and just used a 30 amp inlet box. I bought a cable that had male connection to generator to plug in. The other end was female which I plugged into the inlet that had male prongs also. I put a breaker on the inlet box and then connected to the service panel in the cabin using 8 gauge wire. It’s been perfect for the last 4 years.
@@sternbergoutdoors978 can you simply use a transfer switch? So you wire all circuits to the transfer switch then use a hook up to the generator? I’m thinking of doing a similar hook up to what you have here.
Might be a little late, but the idea is if a plug comes out a little bit, and something falls onto it, it’ll hit the ground. Not necessary, just an idea.
Youre putting 15amp outlets on a 20amp wire, , which could be an issue. What is the current youre going to send through it, from the generator? Could be safe, just be knowledgeable, so youre safe.
James Thompson You really should not have commented! The only difference between 15 and 20 amp outlets is amps and price. Connections are Exactly the same, no difference in any way!
When twisting wires together, use two pliers just like you do in plumbing with pipe wrenches. One to hold the wires at the base and one to twist them together. This way the wires do not turn and twist within the plastic sheathing. Secondly, plastic tape around the wire nuts is a fire hazard.
No... and no. Pull up any electrician's You Tube channel and watch them twist wires together. Surprisingly, no one uses two pliers. Also surprisingly, no one uses adjustable pliers for the job... And electrical tape around wire nuts is simply a choice. Some inspectors want it, others don't.
@@jakedaly7906 simple things like a dry lining back box would make any drywall socket installation much easier. its more so the hardware needs an update.
Dawa Sherpa....His connection is fine, because he's wiring it in parallel. What you're describing is a series circuit. In a series circuit, if one outlet goes bad, the rest of the outlets on that circuit stop working. In a parallel circuit, only the receptacle that goes bad stops working. This is why houses are wired in parallel. Imaging an outlet going bad in your kitchen while you're gone. If it was wired in series, your fridge would stop working even if the receptacle operating the fridge wasn't the one that went bad..
Dawa Sherpa Either way is acceptable! Totally a matter of personal preference. The arguments of one receptacle going bad the rest go out is typical. My statement is, more splices, more points of possible failure. One of the splices with wire nut fail, the rest of the circuit goes down. So really no difference except where you call the failure point. Make sense?
@@KevinCoop1 shut your fat head up anybody who isnt a half assed electrician pig tails! Only dumbasses and diyers connect it that way. Wire nuts will never fail if you connect them properly.
There is no way the framing for that small cabin even meets code, not even close. Those rafters above is not to code at all! The rafters are just only toed in by nails that will not carry the weight! Rafters not even held in with U brackets. Unsafe!
I gotta a small shed that I want to wire, I didn't even know where to start.. I still don't know but I can just watch your video for guidance when I'm ready to do it.
I am in the same boat.
Did you wire your shed?
The more electrical videos I watch, the less I know!
I'm jealous of that drill! Nice video.
12 gauge wires can be challenging to twist correctly. There are some good videos on yt that show this. Get a good pair of linesman pliers and some scrap 12 gauge and practice. Alternatively, you could use Wago lever nuts and forget the hassle. All that extra sheathing is robbing you of space in the box. Use a deep box, 20 or 22.5 cu in. Use a green wire nut with a hole in it for ground, it saves space and eliminates the need for a separate pigtail.
Great info. Never heard of these wago connectors yet, nor have I heard fo the green wire nuts with hole in the end. Thanks.
Thank goodness for you and this video! Useful and easy to understand information ☺️🙏
Just watched your video and it's just what I need to get started doing my shed "Man Cave". I will be running a 30amp Generator for power however I was hoping to see you connect the wires from the Generator Connector to the Circuit Box because that's where I'm stuck right now. Can you tell me where you connected the wires? Thanks!!!
Why not connect top and bottom on each side of the plug?
FYI....many of those blue"new work" boxes have depth markings molded into the box themselves.
They're usually set at 1/2" though
Thanks for this video. I have a starting point for my she shed
Thanks for do this video man. Are you still in Minnesota. I have a question about doing an apprenticeship with you
Just use the 4 screws 2 silver neutral 2 brass hot less joints and space in electrical box
I was wondering, " why the wire nuts?" I can see on the ground, but not on hot and neutral. Just seems like another place to fail.
Great job man I enjoyed it
Any reason why you pigtailed the hot and neutral wires instead of putting both neutral wires on both of the silver terminals and both hot wires on both of the brass terminals?
What you're describing is a series circuit. In a series circuit, if one outlet goes bad, the rest of the outlets on that circuit stop working. In a parallel circuit (here), only the receptacle that goes bad stops working. This is why houses are wired in parallel. Imaging an outlet going bad in your kitchen while you're gone. If it was wired in series, your fridge would stop working even if the receptacle operating the fridge wasn't the one that went bad..
@@da324 makes sense, just way quicker not having to do the pig tail to each outlet
spratsprat yeah it’s actually smart to put pig tails on hot and neutral because if the outlet breaks or malfunctions power will still be fed to the other outlets or whatever else is on the circuit. If he attached the hot and neutrals to the outlet, everything after that outlet will not work .
Jeremy Mccomas Either way is acceptable! Totally a matter of personal preference. The arguments of one receptacle going bad the rest go out is typical. My statement is, more splices, more points of possible failure. One of the splices with wire nut fail, the rest of the circuit goes down. So really no difference except where you call the failure point. Make sense?
Anthony Joseph Please read my comment
Nice video and good information, but I'd put the ground down. Code doesn't specify, but most equipment that needs it one way or another is designed for ground down. Also, OSHA recently made one of my clients, an electrical firm, change theirs to ground down stating one is less likely to break the ground connector off when unplugging if it's down.
I like that " it's code out here for me" first guidance to follow
You could also get spacer plates for the boxes to avoid having to dick around measuring each one.
Can you use a gfci outlet on that instead of the one you used?
Yes you can but you wouldn’t use a pigtail connection like he did because a GFCI outlet needs to have the “line” and “load” separate and wired onto the corresponding sides of the receptacle.
nice job, extra tape that is a good idea
Yes! Finally someone on YT that knows how to properly orientate an electrical outlet right-side-up, which is for safety reasons.
There’s no “proper” way to orientate a receptacle that is vertical, only preference or common to identify switched receptacles (if ground is on top)
Is there a certain height from the floor that the Holes for the wire have to be?
Nope but there is code for holes to be located centre stud to avoid being pinched by drywall screws
is this the same as rv style? i'm trying to wire to hook up to a rv power station. would i do the same and the only difference is just the plug-in adapter at the end?
Thank you for this video very helpful we will be wiring our cabin soon!
Google analytics must be reading my mind, because I just bought the wiring and outlet boxes for an outbuilding today. But I will probably use drywall instead of car siding for most of it. Do you know how far out those boxes should sit for drywall instead of car siding?
Why pigtail the hot and neutral? just attach them to the receptacle a better connection can be made than a pig tail.
There is way too much sheathing inside of that box. You need 1/4 inch minimum coming in, but any more than a half inch just makes it too bulky.
even tho the plug is flipped , it was still a good video and worth a thumbs UP... (its called ground for a reason, otherwise if it was meant to be UP it would be called sky)
🤦♂️
How high you need to put a box on the wall
Only need to pigtail the ground on a duplex plug. Way to much outter jacket in the box
Jp Brady a plug or receptacle?
use two pliers or put pair of lock pliers on 3 wires and then you can twist the 3 ends
thans, very professional and great extra ideas, crimping is key...thanks very much for your work.
Great video! I'm doing the same and have a question, what kind of inlet (plug in) did you use on the outside of the cabin to connect the generator to the cabin? I am using 20 amp wiring. Thanks
I have 30 amp service and just used a 30 amp inlet box. I bought a cable that had male connection to generator to plug in. The other end was female which I plugged into the inlet that had male prongs also. I put a breaker on the inlet box and then connected to the service panel in the cabin using 8 gauge wire. It’s been perfect for the last 4 years.
@@sternbergoutdoors978 can you simply use a transfer switch? So you wire all circuits to the transfer switch then use a hook up to the generator? I’m thinking of doing a similar hook up to what you have here.
Why is the receptacle upside down? I thought that was only switched receptacles
Might be a little late, but the idea is if a plug comes out a little bit, and something falls onto it, it’ll hit the ground. Not necessary, just an idea.
Youre putting 15amp outlets on a 20amp wire, , which could be an issue. What is the current youre going to send through it, from the generator? Could be safe, just be knowledgeable, so youre safe.
Jerry Mack he put the 15amp outlet on the 20amp wire cause trying to put it on a 20amp outlet is a pain in the ass
James Thompson You really should not have commented! The only difference between 15 and 20 amp outlets is amps and price. Connections are Exactly the same, no difference in any way!
Perfectly fine to use 12-2 for 15 amp now 14-2 for 20 not so good.
I’m not being a troll or anything I’m just trying to help but you should only leave about 1/4 inch of the sheathing in the box
nice mr
sternberg
Oh My God! I laughed so hard on how wrong you were wiring your cabin!!!😂. Please, tell me why you pigtailed?!?
Why’d you pigtail all that? You know those outlets half multiple screws for a reason right….talk about unnecessary lol
When twisting wires together, use two pliers just like you do in plumbing with pipe wrenches. One to hold the wires at the base and one to twist them together. This way the wires do not turn and twist within the plastic sheathing. Secondly, plastic tape around the wire nuts is a fire hazard.
No... and no. Pull up any electrician's You Tube channel and watch them twist wires together. Surprisingly, no one uses two pliers. Also surprisingly, no one uses adjustable pliers for the job... And electrical tape around wire nuts is simply a choice. Some inspectors want it, others don't.
Don't use 2 pliers, you can gouge the insulation that way.
Kinda sound like Adam sandler
1/4 ' on sheathing in the box. Just an observation
I took great plans from Avasva . It help me a lot with my own solars.
"im not an electrician" 😳
American electrics is still in the 70´s. you guys need to move on.
Why do we need to move on?
Has electricity come with a new update? It’s not like it’s software that needs to be upgraded every week. It works. Why fix it
@@jakedaly7906 simple things like a dry lining back box would make any drywall socket installation much easier. its more so the hardware needs an update.
Isn't it upside down? Or is it on purpose because it will be used for solar ?
You can put the box sideways if you want to or upside down.......
Cool
Is it ok to install your wall outlits upside-down? Shed or not, just wondering!
You should really google this and see what people are saying about which way is “correct”.
I work in residential new construction in California and ground is always on the bottom/hot wire on the right. Maybe he is doing an East Coast thing??
Receptacles connection is really bad,why not connect two black & white wire directly to the receptacle?
Dawa Sherpa....His connection is fine, because he's wiring it in parallel. What you're describing is a series circuit. In a series circuit, if one outlet goes bad, the rest of the outlets on that circuit stop working. In a parallel circuit, only the receptacle that goes bad stops working. This is why houses are wired in parallel. Imaging an outlet going bad in your kitchen while you're gone. If it was wired in series, your fridge would stop working even if the receptacle operating the fridge wasn't the one that went bad..
Dawa Sherpa Either way is acceptable! Totally a matter of personal preference. The arguments of one receptacle going bad the rest go out is typical. My statement is, more splices, more points of possible failure. One of the splices with wire nut fail, the rest of the circuit goes down. So really no difference except where you call the failure point. Make sense?
@@KevinCoop1 shut your fat head up anybody who isnt a half assed electrician pig tails! Only dumbasses and diyers connect it that way. Wire nuts will never fail if you connect them properly.
I can't tell you how many times I've had to trouble shoot a line because of one stupid receptacle that is hidden or can't be found.
Jumpers good.
Wouldn't it be better to mount your electrical panel to an inside wall, especially when you only have 2x4 studs ?
knight Owl Most residential "load centers" are made to fit standard 16" spaced 2x4" wall studs.
I could give you a helpful tip, but every time I do the creator gets upset, so no helpful tips for you....
There is no way the framing for that small cabin even meets code, not even close. Those rafters above is not to code at all! The rafters are just only toed in by nails that will not carry the weight! Rafters not even held in with U brackets. Unsafe!
nice
Too dark to see
Hell no
Wow... wow,wow... Has the cabin burned down yet?
David Jones nope she is standing strong
do you smell that
Please if you are not professional electrician bit delete your video, you could be reason for killing someone