I haven't turned a lidded bowl to this date... but a few hundred bowls instead... How ever its been very enjoyable to watch you turn this fine lidded bowl. Its always nice to watch somebody else turn, as we all turn slightly different and I learnt some this new this time! Many Thanks!
As you say the tenons will come with practice, a little bit off at a time, 'till it's just snug. I get most of my wood from trees..............that friends and family want to get rid of. Always in the market for free wood....lol. very thoughtful offer Ian, send me a personal message and we can arrange something. Thanks again Mike
I think it's the perfect piece of wood for this. I wouldn't expect a perfect match with the spalting, so getting it that close is far more impressive than with an easier to match wood. Thanks for the lesson.
Thanks David I appreciate your support, as I said in the video, not the best choice of wood for this demo, 'tis all a learning curve ;). Take care Mike
Really Enjoyed the little sad man with hands in pockets 'actually' peering around, back and forth from 6:30 - 7:40 before he was plucked/splintered from his whole world in the Name of Pill Box! :D Just a silly guy from across the pond. Many Thanks for the video and info, Sir Mike... Cheers
Thanks Mike, and a huge LOL re my little "splinter man". Now you have mentioned it you are spot on my friend :) Take care and thanks for watching. Cheers Mike
Hi Serge, Thanks for the support. The sanding sealer takes about 5-10 minutes to dry, depending on the conditions in your shop, heat and humidity are the main factors. I thin mine down, which makes the application easier, and aids the drying time. The mix is : Cellulose Sanding Sealer - 3 parts Cellulose Thinners - 1 part Running the lathe will help a little with the drying time. Hope this helps, and thanks for the sub. Take care Mike
Tidiest work shop I have seen. I live in the USA in Ohio. I have done lots of other wood working, furniture and carvings. My favorite is relief carving. I have started turning wood in the past 2 to 3 months and greatly enjoy it. If I ever make it over to England I would want to meet you had see if Henry Taylor or Robert Sorby, Hamlett have tours. The Lord knows I use their tools enough. I wish Axminster sold in the USA. Ps: your new lathe looks great.
You did a lovely job there Mike, the 'simple' boxes are the hardest to get right. I've started putting a burn line on the actual join as one of my two burns, kinda disguises the joint. If you decide to try this just make sure you have enough wood because I lost a couple of pieces where the rebate wall was very thin.
Great box ! I did a spalted maple box today and the lid and body looked like it come from 2 different trees! I used the thinnest parting tool they make and it still looked horrible. I will try this method tomorrow. I have the box to my wife since she could care less about what I make! Lol
I've not had that problem Scott. I do occasionally however get small strands of wire wool sticking to the inclusions when using this method on burls, so I will use 600 grit sandpaper to cut back the sealer on burls and the like. thanks for the support. Cheers Mike
thanks so much as a new subscriber. carl Jacobsen has told me to watch your videos. tell I saw you pic then I knew who he was talking about . always see your comments on his. as I am new to this world of turning I need all the help I can get thanks for a great video. very nice little box
Hi Dougie, Seems like a capable lathe, ideal entry level if space is tight. Axminster do a similarly priced "Hobby" lathe with slightly more swing over the bed, and variable speed, which saves changing the belt each time AH-1218VS is the model, but really the same spec. as the Scheppach apart from that. Hope this helps. Let me know what you decide on. Take care Mike
Thanks Chuck - After sanding I apply two coats of Cellulose Sanding Sealer ( 3 parts) mixed with Cellulose Thinners (1 part), cutting back each coat when dried with either 00 00 wire wool or fine sand paper (600 grit), then apply 2 or 3 coats of wax, the first with 00 00 wire wool. Cheers Mike
Hi Mark, thanks for the compliment, I assure you it's not always tidy! It would be a pleasure to meet you if you ever make it over the pond, and yes the lathe is all I hoped for and a bit more. Take care Mike
Thanks Kevin. The mortice and tenon are about 2-3 mm.The size needed depends on the size of the box. I apply the wax at about 500 RPM, and increase the speed to polish. The wax is Chestnut Products Wax 22. Hope this helps Take care Mike
great work. I didn't know you can get down to the detail on aligning the grain. Shows how much I know haha. Ill keep an eye for your next post. Take it easy Mike
@ Guy Bradbury Thanks Guy coming from a master craftsman such as yourself, I am honoured with the compliment. My wife thinks I'm simplicity itself ! Take care
Hi Kelly, glad you enjoyed it. If I could ask you to watch my video on " A Simple Wax Finish", it covers in detail exactly what i do to achieve this finish. please don't think I'm palming you off in any way. I just think watching it being done with an explanation as well, is more informative. Hope you find it of use. Please let me know. Take care Mike
Hi Mike. Nice box & video. I have a couple of question if you don't mind? how deep & thick is the mortise & tenon & at what speed do you run the lathe to apply wax, & what wax do you use. I'am going to try my first box so any help would be great. Thanks for the awesome videos you do. Kevin
Made one eventually myself the weekend:) Lid turned out slightly loose on the tenon, Need more practise:) Where do you source your blanks from? I could sent you some nice platter blanks
Hello Mike, Nice work on the spalted box. One question, how long does the sanding sealer take to dry and should you run the lathe to help the process along during drying? Thanks Serge
Nice job as ever Mike, thanks for taking the time to share it. Do you have a set ratio for thinning the sanding sealer? I have always used it neat, straight from the tin, but it is beginning to get a bit gloopy now so could probably do with thinning a bit. Wondered if you have a set recipe, or just do it "by eye" until it looks about right. Cheers Pete
Just a wonderment here. I compared using a spindle gouge to a bowl gouge for hollowing out the lid and found the bowl gouge to be far superior. Am I missing something?
Beginner question. Why is a bowl gouge better than a spindle gouge when turning deeper into the box (further off the tool rest)? Would it be better for a beginner to just use a bowl gouge for all of the interior of the box and interior of the lid?
A bowl gouge is made of thicker stick and hence is more resistant to vibration when extended over the tool rest. For small boxes goblets etc. a spindle gouge is just fine, as you are not extending that far. Cheers Mike
Hi Mike , really enjoyed the video tutorial. Can you explain the advantages of applying the wax with wire wool; not something I have come across beforeThanksPeter
Thanks, I have never given the actual size of the stock any thought, so I've just measured them, The Sorby is 0.342", the Henry Taylor is 0.427", strange how they differ in size. Cheers Mike
Hi Darren, glad you enjoyed it. If you have a look at my video "A Simple Wax Finish", it goes into detail about how I ally the finish and what's used. Take care Mike
What Chuck are you using to hold the peace what is the exact name, I have a self centring holder for my lathe but I need one like yours. Love the videos keep them coming. Thanks
Hi mike, I'm sure this has already been answered, but what do you use for putting the burn lines into your work? I am 'just' starting out wood turning... I have a lot of experience of metal turning and machining, but I'd like to try woodwork. I have watched your beginners guide videos and have bought a lathe, tools, safety equipment etc. just waiting on getting my workshop finished. looking forward to "having a go" Cheers Jonno
Hi Jonno, nice to hear that you are going to be catching the "bug" mate. All I use is picture wire, with a wooden "handle" at both ends. Enjoy your turning when you start. Take care Mike
Many thanks Mike, I'm itching to get going and craft something. I have a lot of logs and timber dried so it shouldn't be long. I think my first attempt will probably be either a bowl or an eggcup. Cheers Jonno
Hi Mike, I'm new to wood turning and find your video's extremely informative and a joy to watch. I wonder if you could possibly suggest a Variable speed mini lathe suitable for a beginner. Kind regards Mike and keep up the great work.
bushcraftjunkie Thank you for your kind words. I can only suggest a lathe from Axminster here in the UK, a good friend of mine has one and is very pleased with it, here is the link:www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-hobby-series-ah-1218vs-woodturning-lathe Hope this helps Take care Mike
Hi, I have made my own spalted wood. I used freshly cut log sections that I quarter, then I stack them in a large plastic trash bin (50 gallon, approx) that I have cut some small drain holes in the bottom. As I stack the wood in, I also add layers of grass clippings, wood chips and leaves then pour water into the bin. You want the wood wet, but not sitting in standing water, that's why the drain holes to let the water out slowly. I pack more leaves on top and let it sit uncovered for four to six months. I usually start in the early fall months when it starts getting cooler and the rains start, and let the wood sit in the bin with all of the rotting leaves and grass over the winter. I have had some good results, some not, so it's just a mater of trial and error. I've used western maple, sugar maple, alder with good results, and several fruitwoods like cherry, apple and apricot that do ok, but need some more work to perfect the technique. So it's not really artificial, it's just controlling the amount of time the wood its in the bin with the rotting leaves and such. As the wood begins to rot, you can see the black streaks and mold on the end grain. The billets I cut were from log sections about 18 inches long and maybe just over a foot long. Good luck if you try it. Just remember, wood from the limbs of fruit and nut trees are too reactionary and can become really unstable after they come out of the bin and crack heavily. Good luck.
WootTootZoot Thanks for passing that on, i think I'll have a go myself this winter, maybe try some Cherry, and see how it goes. Thanks again. Take care Mike
Hi Mike, I am new to wood turning & have a couple questions to ask. Why do you mix the Sanding Sealer & not use it neat straight from the bottle ? Do you recommend a good quality chuck for doing this kind of work & also for making bowls ?ThanksIan
Hi, I "thin" the sanding sealer as I feel it penetrates the wood fibres better, and dries quicker, but I do normally apply two coats. If you look at chucks from the majot manufacturesrs, there will without a doubt a model that will suit you. Take care Mike
Hey, I see that this vid is a little over 4 years old, but I'm just getting round to seeing it--your lathe is almost silent--I love that--what kind of lathe is it?
Hi David, it was WoodWax22, which was my wax finish of choice...until I found Hampshire Sheen, HS has a great finish, and is harder wearing. Cheers Mike
Thanks Bob appreciate the kind comment.
Take care
Mike
I haven't turned a lidded bowl to this date... but a few hundred bowls instead...
How ever its been very enjoyable to watch you turn this fine lidded bowl.
Its always nice to watch somebody else turn, as we all turn slightly different and I learnt some this new this time! Many Thanks!
Thanks for your kind words Stephen, I appreciate it my friend.
Take care
Mike
As you say the tenons will come with practice, a little bit off at a time, 'till it's just snug. I get most of my wood from trees..............that friends and family want to get rid of. Always in the market for free wood....lol. very thoughtful offer Ian, send me a personal message and we can arrange something. Thanks again
Mike
Mike this is the third time I've watched this video. I learn something new each time I watch. Thanks Tom
Very nice Mike the grain of spalted wood is stunning. It is an awesome lidded box.
Thank you Kobie
Cheers
Mike
I think it's the perfect piece of wood for this. I wouldn't expect a perfect match with the spalting, so getting it that close is far more impressive than with an easier to match wood. Thanks for the lesson.
+Ted Weddell
Thank you Ted for your kind words, they are much appreciated.
Take care
Mike
As a new turner I have looked at many videos and find yours the most professional and inspiring. Thank you.
Fantastic little box Mike all the best Nick
Thanks Nick, glad you like it.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks David I appreciate your support, as I said in the video, not the best choice of wood for this demo, 'tis all a learning curve ;).
Take care
Mike
Really Enjoyed the little sad man with hands in pockets 'actually' peering around,
back and forth from 6:30 - 7:40 before he was plucked/splintered from his whole world in the Name of Pill Box! :D Just a silly guy from across the pond.
Many Thanks for the video and info, Sir Mike... Cheers
Thanks Mike, and a huge LOL re my little "splinter man".
Now you have mentioned it you are spot on my friend :)
Take care and thanks for watching.
Cheers
Mike
Once again a brilliant video Mike, thanks for taking the time to do them, we all enjoy your relaxed style, video quality and camera angles!
Thanks for the compliments Tom, they are much appreciated, as are your support and encouragement.
Take care
Mike
Excellent video presented in an easy-going but very informative manner. I look forward to seeing more from you.
Many thanks.
Hi Mike, just started turning 2 weeks ago. I really enjoy
your videos. Great explanations for a "newbie".
Hi Ed, thanks for watching, and your support. Glad that you found some use from my channel.
Take care
Mike
The box came out looking very nice!! Enjoyed the video as usual, you did a great job explaining things, the beach made an interesting pattern
very well made Mike. I love the way you take steps. Very organized! My best wishes my friend
Jake
Thanks for the positive comments Alan much appreciated.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks Jake. Nice to hear from you again. Hope all is OK.
Take care mate
Mike
Mike, I appreciate you sharing your skill sets. I have to say you have the tidie
I definitely prefer this approach instead of the one where the lid is reversed when finished. Makes for much better grain match.
Great job.
Alan
Hi Serge,
Thanks for the support. The sanding sealer takes about 5-10 minutes to dry, depending on the conditions in your shop, heat and humidity are the main factors. I thin mine down, which makes the application easier, and aids the drying time. The mix is :
Cellulose Sanding Sealer - 3 parts
Cellulose Thinners - 1 part
Running the lathe will help a little with the drying time.
Hope this helps, and thanks for the sub.
Take care
Mike
Good instructional video. Thank you Mike!
Glad you enjoyed the video Lee.
Tidiest work shop I have seen. I live in the USA in Ohio. I have done lots of other wood working, furniture and carvings. My favorite is relief carving. I have started turning wood in the past 2 to 3 months and greatly enjoy it. If I ever make it over to England I would want to meet you had see if Henry Taylor or Robert Sorby, Hamlett have tours. The Lord knows I use their tools enough. I wish Axminster sold in the USA. Ps: your new lathe looks great.
Nice video; I really like the wood you chose - I'm a big fan of turning spalted woods. Also, you have a great voice. :)
Thank you, spalted wood is one of my favourites, always comes up trumps in my opinion.
Cheers
Mike
Beautiful box Mike, Great job on the video as well.
Take care,
Carl
You did a lovely job there Mike, the 'simple' boxes are the hardest to get right. I've started putting a burn line on the actual join as one of my two burns, kinda disguises the joint. If you decide to try this just make sure you have enough wood because I lost a couple of pieces where the rebate wall was very thin.
Thanks Rich. I tried a new format and need to work on the audio as you say. next time will be better......promise....lol
Take care
Mike
Great box ! I did a spalted maple box today and the lid and body looked like it come from 2 different trees! I used the thinnest parting tool they make and it still looked horrible. I will try this method tomorrow. I have the box to my wife since she could care less about what I make! Lol
I've not had that problem Scott. I do occasionally however get small strands of wire wool sticking to the inclusions when using this method on burls, so I will use 600 grit sandpaper to cut back the sealer on burls and the like.
thanks for the support.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks Diane, I'm pleases that you found it useful.
Take care
Mike
great video (had to watch it with no sound - at work) what oil / wax would you recommend for a high gloss finish on this wood?
thanks
darren
enjoyable video Mike. Your finish is very nice. Could you expand on the sealer and wax? What kinds etc. I sure could use some advice. thanks! Kelly...
thanks so much as a new subscriber. carl Jacobsen has told me to watch your videos. tell I saw you pic then I knew who he was talking about . always see your comments on his. as I am new to this world of turning I need all the help I can get thanks for a great video. very nice little box
dale marsh Hi Dale, thanks for the sub my friend, your support and kind words are very much appreciated.
Take care
Mike
after watching your video. went out and turned one it came out pretty good . would send you a pic but not sure how
dale marsh I'll PM you my email Dale, then you can send me a photo, looking forward to seeing it.
Take care
Mike
Hi mike, very nice box i have just got back into woodturning all the best john.
Thanks John, glad to hear your back into turning.
Take care
Mike
Well done Mike, enjoyed the video!
Thank you Larry
Cheers
Mike
Hi Dougie,
Seems like a capable lathe, ideal entry level if space is tight. Axminster do a similarly priced "Hobby" lathe with slightly more swing over the bed, and variable speed, which saves changing the belt each time AH-1218VS is the model, but really the same spec. as the Scheppach apart from that. Hope this helps. Let me know what you decide on.
Take care
Mike
Thanks Chuck - After sanding I apply two coats of Cellulose Sanding Sealer ( 3 parts) mixed with Cellulose Thinners (1 part), cutting back each coat when dried with either 00 00 wire wool or fine sand paper (600 grit), then apply 2 or 3 coats of wax, the first with 00 00 wire wool.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks Ian. To burn the lines I use picture hanging wire, and I made two wooden handles to attach to either end.
Cheers
Mike
Nice vid, and great tutorial - thanks, Mike!
Bob.
Thanks Bob
Take care
Mike
Hi Mark, thanks for the compliment, I assure you it's not always tidy! It would be a pleasure to meet you if you ever make it over the pond, and yes the lathe is all I hoped for and a bit more.
Take care
Mike
Thanks Kevin. The mortice and tenon are about 2-3 mm.The size needed depends on the size of the box. I apply the wax at about 500 RPM, and increase the speed to polish. The wax is Chestnut Products Wax 22.
Hope this helps
Take care
Mike
great work. I didn't know you can get down to the detail on aligning the grain. Shows how much I know haha. Ill keep an eye for your next post. Take it easy Mike
Lol...thanks for watching.
Take care
Mike
Hi Mike great video I make many boxs on my mini lathe, looking forward to seeing more. ps nice tidy wookshop.
Thank you, very kind of you to say so, I am flattered :)
Take care
Mike
@ Guy Bradbury
Thanks Guy coming from a master craftsman such as yourself, I am honoured with the compliment.
My wife thinks I'm simplicity itself !
Take care
Hi Kelly, glad you enjoyed it. If I could ask you to watch my video on " A Simple Wax Finish", it covers in detail exactly what i do to achieve this finish. please don't think I'm palming you off in any way. I just think watching it being done with an explanation as well, is more informative.
Hope you find it of use.
Please let me know.
Take care
Mike
I'm really pleased that you find it useful Tom.
Take care
Mike
very nice box mike . love that wood .
+Dale Marsh
Thank you Dale
Cheers
Mike
I see you have the same set up as i have is that a Axminster chuck if so which jaw set do you have in it thanks i like the box.
Nice work Mike !
Thank you Bradley.
Cheers
Mike
Your voice is brilliant !
Thanks Pete. I find a ratio of approximately 3 parts sanding sealer to 1 part thinners works well.
Cheers
Mike
Great little box Mike.
~Kevin
Thank you Kevin, much appreciated.
Cheers
Mike
Lovely little box, Mike! I have never worked with Beech but if it is all that nice I will have to try some.
Be well,
.....Gord
Gordon Rock Thanks Gord, i appreciate it mate
Take care
Mike
Encore une belle démonstration Mike.
Une très jolie petite boite :)
Lolo
Thanks Glyn, really appreciate your comment, and thanks for watching.
Take care
Mike
Looking forward to see next box video
Hi Mike. Nice box & video. I have a couple of question if you don't mind? how deep & thick is the mortise & tenon & at what speed do you run the lathe to apply wax, & what wax do you use. I'am going to try my first box so any help would be great. Thanks for the awesome videos you do.
Kevin
Made one eventually myself the weekend:) Lid turned out slightly loose on the tenon, Need more practise:) Where do you source your blanks from? I could sent you some nice platter blanks
A most exquisite piece! And a very nice video. Thank you!
Thank you. Yes it is a lovely wood to work with I agree.
Take care
Mike
Nice box what do you use in your finishing?
Thanks very much Carl, on both counts.
Take care
Mike
Mike, what kind of wire did you use, I couldn't hear what you called it. Thanks, Charlie, South Carolina
Glad to have been of help mate.
Take care
Mike
PS......Drool away ;)
Hello Mike,
Nice work on the spalted box.
One question, how long does the sanding sealer take to dry and should you run the lathe to help the process along during drying?
Thanks
Serge
Nice job as ever Mike, thanks for taking the time to share it.
Do you have a set ratio for thinning the sanding sealer? I have always used it neat, straight from the tin, but it is beginning to get a bit gloopy now so could probably do with thinning a bit. Wondered if you have a set recipe, or just do it "by eye" until it looks about right.
Cheers
Pete
Great video just wondering where did you get the tool to burn in the lines?
Ian
Thanks Mike, great little tutorial.
I'm wondering, do you get any blackening of the timber when polishing with steel wool combined with polish?
Very well done mike, so much to take in. Glyn
Hi Charles, I use regular picture hanging wire.
Cheers
Mike
Very nice! Why do some people object to using steel wool?
Thank you ... because if not mindful, it can catch in the spinning work.
Thank you, glad you think so.
Cheers
Mike
are you going to put more videos up soon?
Any chance of a video of how you made it?:) p.s Ireland for the win saturday :D Eire ABU!
Just a wonderment here. I compared using a spindle gouge to a bowl gouge for hollowing out the lid and found the bowl gouge to be far superior. Am I missing something?
They both work fine, I just used to use the spundle gouge for my boxes.
jee that was great, I learned a lot, thanks so much
Diane
Beginner question. Why is a bowl gouge better than a spindle gouge when turning deeper into the box (further off the tool rest)? Would it be better for a beginner to just use a bowl gouge for all of the interior of the box and interior of the lid?
A bowl gouge is made of thicker stick and hence is more resistant to vibration when extended over the tool rest. For small boxes goblets etc. a spindle gouge is just fine, as you are not extending that far.
Cheers
Mike
Mike Waldt - thank you. I enjoy your videos, and learn a lot from them.
Look harder man!!!!!!
Find those boxes and finish them.....lol.
Hows the PC comeing on?
Take care
Mike
Hi Mike , really enjoyed the video tutorial. Can you explain the advantages of applying the wax with wire wool; not something I have come across beforeThanksPeter
+peter ellis
Thanks Peter, the wire wool gets the wax into the grain, but I never use it on pieces with bark inclusions, or on burls.
Take care
Mike
Thanks again Mike, I have bought some Ash, which is very open grain, so I will try this technique on this. Keep posting your great videos! Peter
Thanks Chris. The jaws are the Axminster "Medium Gripper Jaws"
take care
Mike
Thanks, I have never given the actual size of the stock any thought, so I've just measured them, The Sorby is 0.342", the Henry Taylor is 0.427", strange how they differ in size.
Cheers
Mike
Hi Darren, glad you enjoyed it. If you have a look at my video "A Simple Wax Finish", it goes into detail about how I ally the finish and what's used.
Take care
Mike
Thanks Bowser, hope it works out OK for you.
Cheers
Mike
Mike é um excelente trabalho.
Thank you once again Alcino
Cheers
Mike
Can you please describe what is in the "sanding sealer mix" that you use, and whether it is water or oil based.
Thanks,
John
+john patrick
I use Cellulose Sanding Sealer 3 parts, to 1 part Cellulose Thinners.
Hope this helps.
Take care
Mike
What Chuck are you using to hold the peace what is the exact name, I have a self centring holder for my lathe but I need one like yours. Love the videos keep them coming. Thanks
Hi Dyfrig, the chuck is my Axminster Clubman K10 with the Medium Gripper Jaws.
Take care
Mike
Thanks Mike, what is the sanding sealer mix & type of wax you use?
dj brooks It's 3:1 Cellulose Sanding Sealer to Cellulose Thinners, and the wax is WoodWax22. Thanks for watching DJ.Cheers
Mike
Thanks m8
Great video mike! As usual slow and easy with lots of teachable moments. By the way, what type gouge did you use on it?
Thank you, it was a 3/8" spindle gouge.
Take care
Mike
Hi mike, I'm sure this has already been answered, but what do you use for putting the burn lines into your work? I am 'just' starting out wood turning... I have a lot of experience of metal turning and machining, but I'd like to try woodwork. I have watched your beginners guide videos and have bought a lathe, tools, safety equipment etc. just waiting on getting my workshop finished. looking forward to "having a go"
Cheers
Jonno
Hi Jonno, nice to hear that you are going to be catching the "bug" mate. All I use is picture wire, with a wooden "handle" at both ends. Enjoy your turning when you start.
Take care
Mike
Many thanks Mike, I'm itching to get going and craft something. I have a lot of logs and timber dried so it shouldn't be long. I think my first attempt will probably be either a bowl or an eggcup.
Cheers
Jonno
Jonathan Clenton Don't forget to let me know how you get on mate.
Cheers
Mike
Thank you Yves.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks Alan, I totally agree with you.
Cheers
Mike
Hi Mike, I'm new to wood turning and find your video's extremely informative and a joy to watch. I wonder if you could possibly suggest a Variable speed mini lathe suitable for a beginner. Kind regards Mike and keep up the great work.
bushcraftjunkie Thank you for your kind words. I can only suggest a lathe from Axminster here in the UK, a good friend of mine has one and is very pleased with it, here is the link:www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-hobby-series-ah-1218vs-woodturning-lathe
Hope this helps
Take care
Mike
Mike Waldt Fantastic Sir, thank you so much for the info, link and indeed your reply. forgot to sub last time but have now. All the best Mike.
bushcraftjunkie My pleasure Mike, and thanks a lot for the sub :)Cheers
Mike
I've heard of artificially spalting wood. Do you have any experience in doing so, or any thoughts about it as I have a hard time finding it in nature.
Hi Cassian, I have never tried it. There are several methods, here is a link to one of them ; www.woodcentral.com/russ/russ4.shtml
Take care
Mike
Hi, I have made my own spalted wood. I used freshly cut log sections that I quarter, then I stack them in a large plastic trash bin (50 gallon, approx) that I have cut some small drain holes in the bottom. As I stack the wood in, I also add layers of grass clippings, wood chips and leaves then pour water into the bin. You want the wood wet, but not sitting in standing water, that's why the drain holes to let the water out slowly. I pack more leaves on top and let it sit uncovered for four to six months. I usually start in the early fall months when it starts getting cooler and the rains start, and let the wood sit in the bin with all of the rotting leaves and grass over the winter. I have had some good results, some not, so it's just a mater of trial and error. I've used western maple, sugar maple, alder with good results, and several fruitwoods like cherry, apple and apricot that do ok, but need some more work to perfect the technique.
So it's not really artificial, it's just controlling the amount of time the wood its in the bin with the rotting leaves and such. As the wood begins to rot, you can see the black streaks and mold on the end grain. The billets I cut were from log sections about 18 inches long and maybe just over a foot long. Good luck if you try it. Just remember, wood from the limbs of fruit and nut trees are too reactionary and can become really unstable after they come out of the bin and crack heavily. Good luck.
WootTootZoot Thanks for passing that on, i think I'll have a go myself this winter, maybe try some Cherry, and see how it goes. Thanks again.
Take care
Mike
Hi Mike, I am new to wood turning & have a couple questions to ask. Why do you mix the Sanding Sealer & not use it neat straight from the bottle ? Do you recommend a good quality chuck for doing this kind of work & also for making bowls ?ThanksIan
Hi, I "thin" the sanding sealer as I feel it penetrates the wood fibres better, and dries quicker, but I do normally apply two coats. If you look at chucks from the majot manufacturesrs, there will without a doubt a model that will suit you.
Take care
Mike
Thanks Keith
Cheers
Mike
Hey, I see that this vid is a little over 4 years old, but I'm just getting round to seeing it--your lathe is almost silent--I love that--what kind of lathe is it?
Hi Don, the lathe in this video was the Axminster AWVSL1000, a very capable lathe, I have however upgraded since then :)
Take care
Mike
Mike, thanks for the follow up-what kind of lathe have you gone to?
Hey Mike what kind of wax finish did you use on this box? I didn't catch that.
Hi David, it was WoodWax22, which was my wax finish of choice...until I found Hampshire Sheen, HS has a great finish, and is harder wearing.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks for the reply Mike. I guess I need to get me some of that \
Very very nice!!
Thank you again Kandie.
Lovely looking box Mike, i have made a few boxes now and always burn grooves on the sides, is there a way to do the top of the lid ?
Thanks Mart. I have found that thin "Formica" does a good job on the lids, or indeed a thin piece of hardwood.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Mikre
Thank you Mike
Thanks Michael, yes I would agree 100%, I think Yew just pips Beech at the post! :)
Take care
Mike