Man I been a electrician 3 years going on 4. Let me tell you sir, Not a lot of people like to explain or teach for job security but man I love the way you explain your work. I’ve watched other videos as some are good you are damn good at teaching and explaining. Your calling was definitely a electrician but also a teacher/instructor 🤙🏽
Excellent video, thank's for lighting me up,your time, patience and great explanations. My wife will not believe me when she'll come home and that the three way switch is working well. You should have see/heard me yesterday trying!!! 😇
You are awesome teaching and make me feel like I can do this. And I did, you help me be confident and comfortable doing electrical stuff around my house. Because of people like you I think more people are more confident doing things on their own (at least in my case). The only thing that I have to do is little more research is when you connected the second switch, you didn’t specify or show where the he wires go( like the white ones from the light and the power source) since I am not an electrician, I had to do a little digging. But overall awesome work and thank you so much for the videos that you make. God bless you.
You deserve ever positive comment!! Believe me, as I have watched a number of videos to try and find a solution. I have two 3-way switches in a 4-inch box in my garage (that we never use) that I want to replace with outlets and just control the lights with the switches inside the house. Maybe the solution is in this video and I just need a good night's sleep to help my head stop spinning long enough for it to register!
@@handydadtv Thanks so much Chris! I fully agree as I have done exactly that when laying out our home network and TV with a bunch of other components. I'm confident that I will have to pigtail some wires to maintain the circuit for the lights and then just use the hot and neutral (which I have identified) for my outlets. Thanks for taking the time!
Great video and explanation! I currently have the same set-up in the 2nd scenario, except my switches power an outlet. How can I change this to a constant hot outlet and then use switches for a light source?
Chris thank you for your time in explaining the ever confusing 3-way 👍. Unlike others I am not an electrician by no means of the word but you broke this down to even I understood the process. I am puting in 3 led ceiling lights and an exhaust fan in my bathroom and I am wanting to put them all on the same circuit and wire them with all on two 3-way switches. Can I run a 12/3 wire between the switches and then daisy chain the lights and exhaust fan with 12/2 wire? I am wanting to wire them with 3-way because I have 2 doors for the master bath
First cardinal rule is to keep outlets and lighting on separate circuits. Otherwise your LED lights will flicker from the blow dryer, etc. Trust me. Don’t wire those lights from an outlet circuit. Yes, you can put all the lights on the 3-way circuit. Makes perfect sense. Personally, I would never wire the fan to always be on with the lights. I’d give it a separate switch near the shower. And I’d install a timer switch that has buttons for different times. Push the 15-minute button when you get in the shower so you can walk away and never forget to turn it off.
@@handydadtv Chris thanks for the feedback much appreciated. Yeah I didnt think it would be too big of any issue putting the outlets on the same circuit because this is an older model house built in the 80's. However, after reading what you said and going back to find a solution I had to take out more drywall. This served to being a good thing due to the fact I found more electrical issues. To fix it I will have to rewire a few more fixtures so I will be able to put lights on one circuit and my outlets on another. Again thanks for letting me pick your brain and giving me a better solution Keep up the good work my friend
Hi there, great video. You showed the setup for two different ways when kight fixture is last in line and when light fixture is in middle. How do you know which way yours is setup?
What did you do with the neutral from the power source? I am currently trying to create a new 3-way, but the only wires going to my switch are a hot and one to the light.
I agree, I am still trying to understand 3-way after more than 2 years trying to figure it out on my own...I still have my stairs light only powering on one side....need to take time to fix it and make it work both, upstairs and downstairs 🙂
Thanks for teaching about how travellers wires works. While troubleshooting i found the wires were going from the back of switch where one has release them white , red and black another black which is main or hot wire was passing through screw. Can we put red and white on the travel golden screws . The third black wire will from the back of switch position near release hole
I came across your videos and love them. I do have an issue with my ceiling fan and can lights in my living room. I have two switches just in the video and both of them control the fan and lights. We can’t just turn the lights off and leave the fan on and vice versa. Do you have any ideas what it could be? I’ve racked my brain so many times trying to figure this out and I’m a do it myself kinda of guy.
I don’t know how old your house is, but odds are, your 3-way switches originally powered a light fixture in the middle of the ceiling. Then somebody replaced the light with a ceiling fan. Then somebody decided they needed more light so they wire the can lights from the box in the ceiling because that was the easiest thing to do. How close am I? At this point, it makes sense for the switches to control the lights but I’d rather see the fan have constant power so you can just use the pull chains or a remote to control it. That could be easy or hard depending on how the 3-way circuit is wired. If power comes into the ceiling box and then loops through the switches, you can easily change the fan to have constant power. If the power comes into a switch, flows to the other, then to the fan box, you’ll need to find a new power source for the fan. You need to open the fan box and use a voltage tester to figure this out.
@@handydadtv My house was built in 1972 but I think you’re spot on with my situation. The only issue is I have a vaulted ceiling and in the center the fan hangs down but it’s 13’ from the center of the room. So checking on the fan to see how it’s wired is kinda out of the question. Can’t I pull out both light switches and see if there’s more than one set of wires running to the switches? I would think that the can lights are on one wire anyways and spit between the two switches.
@jasonlopez7480 Sure you can do look in the switches, but I can pretty much guarantee you’re not going to be happy. With a vaulted ceiling, I highly doubt the electrician ran power to the fan first. I’d bet it comes into one of the switches first.
@@handydadtv That sucks.. I took the can light bulbs out so we can run the fan but I know it’s not safe for that. So I’m pretty much screwed unless I rewire the entire thing.
@jasonlopez7480 I had NO fan box in my great room with a vaulted ceiling. Even I hired an electrician to do that install! ua-cam.com/video/VHs1XBdnCxs/v-deo.html
Now can you do one with a motion sensor on one side for stain wells? Leviton does one but only for single pole. One question I want to know is if the distance it too long for just one sensor then does my second sensor need to be a companion sensor or a slave sensor or just two of the same? Thank you for teaching this subject.
Hello! I have a laundry room that I enter from a garage. There are two three-way switches, and the light worked great. I thought a motion sensing automatic switch would be a great idea, so I put it in place of one of the switches. I only worked inside that one box. However, now that its all done, the sensing switch only works if the switch I didn't work on is in one position. For the life of me, I can't seem to figure which wire is wrong inside the box with the sensing switch. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Hi there, great tutorial videos! I have 3 switches that control one light but have an issue when turning off as when i turn off one switch the light will turn off momentarily but will turn back on which I would need to go to the other switch and flip that one off to keep the light off. Its a real head scratcher and cant seem to figure it out, any suggestions?
You could only do that from the box where power comes into the circuit. You need to identify the always hot wire. Then follow this ua-cam.com/video/xOZv17BPTZA/v-deo.html
Great video! I am looking for wiring diagram that can help me troubleshoot 3-way circuit. Actually this might be considered a 4-way circuit, I'm not sure. I have two switches controlling two lights. One switch and one light at the bottom of the stairs and the other light with the other switch at the top of the stairs. The switches control the lights in the same way you described in this video, and the lights turn off and on together as if they were one light, the lights turn on together and turn off together. Recently the light fixture at the bottom of the stairs stopped working, tried several bulbs, no luck. The switch at the bottom of the stairs still works, it can still turn the light at the top on and off. Anyways I just wanted to find some sort of a relevant diagram before I did anything to it. Any advice?
You can use Google Images to get diagrams, but chances are your electrician deviated from the standard method to use the least amount of wire. When you drop the light, you may see a lot of other wires. Don’t waste your time trying to figure it out; just do a direct replacement using the same wires from the original light.
Question: I have an existing flood light on a switch. I want to change fixture to a motion flood light. Do I have to have the switch on all the time? Or is there a way to tap into the hot wire and allow the new motion flood light to be active and at the same time be able to turn on with the switch on demand. Not sure if that is possible. Sue
The best practice is to simply leave the switch on all the time. Most motion floodlights have a manual override so you can turn it on by toggling the switch off and on.
Let’s say you are adding in a hanging light above a kitchen island and there happens to be a 3 way switch for the kitchen lights can you designate one of those switches to the new light ?
Not without rewiring the circuit. I’d leave the 3-way circuit alone and add a switch for the new light. Not easy, but that’s the best long term solution.
Hi love the content! Need help bad. My daughter would like to replace a light in the kitchen but I can’t figure out the sequences of wires. 3 ground wires 3 black ( one is hot) 1 red 3 white I hooked them light to them lights on but can’t shut it off. The other two lights don’t come on. Or two lights come on.and switch works. But the light I’m working on is off.
When replacing a fixture, always reconnect the new light to the same wires as the old one. I’m assuming she didn’t mark those wires and she doesn’t remember how it was wired. Glad to hear you have a voltage tester! If you connect all the black wires, is the red hot only when the switch is on? If so, connect that to the black wire on the light.
Nice Video.. My issue is I have a three way coming into the light from a switch thats hot. and I need to put another light switch on the other wall coming from that light box. Any idea I've searched all over and cant find any video of a three wire coming into the light switch from another switch. Any help from someone would be greatfully appreciated.
Yes I shoud of said its a three wire with a ground , whats strange is they have a single blue wire hooked to the first switch on the bottom screw to the right, I did test the black and white and it does work off the first switch but I'm left with the red and this blue wire. I need to run a three wire to another switch from that light. After looking more into it just now the three wire is hooked up to the first switch and there is another wire looks like the hot, So I have a switch the red wire is hooked to the left side top, the black from the three wire is hooked to the top right and the hot and this blue wire is hooked to the bottom together, as I said this one single blue wire is running to the light. its an older house built in 1970 @@handydadtv
Somebody else was messing with it and never took a picture how it was wired when he took the light down because it was cracked. if so I wouldnt be posting this. he said there was a white wire not hooked up it was just in the box with no wire nut.🤨
Do you have a video showing how to take one light and make it two on the same switch? I would like to take my one bathroom light that's in the center and create two side sconces instead.
I watch this video you sent me, but I'm still a little confused, my circuit breaker panel is downstairs. Making me believe that the source of the power is going to the lower switch, then the travel wires brings it up to the top of the stairs switch. That's the one I'm tapping off of to add that outlet. Is there any way to make that outlet hot all the time. Not shut off when either upper or lower switch is turned on for over head light
@@handydadtv I appreciate you getting back to me, but I'll probably just leave it the way it is. I'm fine with it, my main reason to put the outlet in was just to put a night light there, to light up the first couple of steps at the top of the landing. Then once I turn the switch on to put over head light on, I really don't need it anymore, because the the whole stairway is lit up. But thank you again for your quick response
How do you add a new light, switch, and then receptacle (in that order), when the power source is in the light at the top of the wall from attic? Is there a video with this scenario?
No video for that specific situation, but these will help: ua-cam.com/video/-WufbstcvRw/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/xOZv17BPTZA/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/wRSgemIxamU/v-deo.html
I noticed that on the switches the red and black wires were transposed at the top. Would it make a difference if, say both black were on the left side?
Need help, so I have the 3 way setting. I'm replacing one switch with a combo (switch + outlet). In that switch, I have 2 traveller wires. that will power the light depending on the switch position. And 1 cable that brings the power to the light bulb. I installed the switch + combo. The 3 ways work normally but I don't know how to bring power to the outlet. i want them to be separated. so I need power at all times in the outlet. suggestions?
In a previously installed 3-way switch house, What is the easiest way to find which of the two is the one that is first connected to the circuit? I need this to replace only one with the WiFi 3-way, instead of changing both as I am told it will work and save me an extra wifi socket that way.
I have a light in a hallway wired just like your intro diagram and I assumed I could add multiple fixtures from the original light and that isn’t working
Hi again! I know you are doing a video about this, but I need help. I have a 3-way smart switch. Specifically, the Kasa 3way wifi smart switch and every single diagram I see, the assumption is the power goes from 1st switch to 2nd switch then to the light fixture. My switches are run differently, my power runs to 1st switch then to the light fixture and then to 2nd switch. None of the examples show this type of setup, and I am wondering if 3way smart switches only work when power goes to switch 1 then switch 2 then fixture? And not any other way.
Ok sorry, the box has neutral wire. The main switch for the 3way is in a two gang box (main switch has a neutral required) the satellite or companion switch is in a 4 gang box, but the satellite switch requires traveler 2 and load on one screw, traveler 1 on 2nd screw and ground wire that needs to be tied into other ground wires.
Wow. I think I got it but it’s really hard to grasp. I might have to buy that kit to play with it. One thing to note, however, is that you’re talking about “borrowing” the neutral that didn’t originate with your light. You can’t do that if it’s on a different circuit because it creates a shock hazard when working on either circuit unless both are off.
I have a switch box with two yellow and a red wire connected to the switch I am adding recessed lights how do I connect the new white and black wire to that switch for correct operation?
Thanks to you, I'm understanding this concept. Now...I don't suppose you could do a video on hooking up a 4-way, using all Insteon switches? I have what has to be the most confusing situation of all time. Three switches all operating the fluorescents in my garage, and two of them are ganged together with switches that control other loads. Worst of all, I detect hot on TWO of the fluorescent switches - not one, but TWO. And the kicker is, I once had this all wired correctly, but I had to replace a bad switch, and it all went south. Actually, never mind. I need to bite the bullet and hire an electrician!
HELP please hello is there any way you can explain to me what to do if the light will not come on. I removed the switch and light fixture and checked the wiring and everything looks correct. They were connected to a single pole switch I went and got 3-way switches and rewired. Am I doing something wrong. Do I have to go in the ceiling to check... I know power runs from receptacle outlet to switch from switch to light fixture and the light fixture will not come on. Not sure what to do HELP please
What if each switch box has a connection to a light. Switch box 1 has 14-2 to a light, and switch box 2 has 14-2 to a light. And 14-3 goes from sw box 1 to sw box 2. Also, the hot 14-2 comes into sw box 1. How do you wire 3-way switches so either switch can still control both lights?
three way switches are all the same; they work as a variable switch; a first switch(line switch) receives current at the separate end terminal; the second switch(load switch) feeds current from its separate end terminal over to the light; "HandyDadTV" wasn't at all handy explaining the necessity and functionality of the two Hot wires needed between the switches - "travel wires", "travelers" or "pared wires"
I have a confusing problem with a 3 way circuit.when the light is on it can be turned off from either switch, when it is off it can only be turned on by the switch it was turned on with. Help!
I have a 3-way switch setup connected by a 12/2, not 12/3, wire. The neutral in one box is capped and the neutral in the other box is also capped. But, somehow the 3-way switch works.
@@handydadtv I'm trying to install a smart light switch that requires a neutral wire. Should I just go ahead and cap off the neutral wire from the new switch since the neutral wire in the box is not being used?
It’s impossible to answer in a comment because wiring has many variations. You can watch videos to learn the basics, but you need to develop the skill to troubleshoot and figure things out. Don’t hesitate to contact an electrician for a complex situation.
There are 3 switches in my bedroom. Each switch can turn on or off the ligh bulb. (Only 1 light bulb) 1 switch doesn't work. I bought a Legrand switch to replace it. There are only 2 cables coming out of the wall, one blue (N) one white (L). The new switch works OK but now the other two do not. Can anybody help please?
My problem is everything is hooked up. I took down a ligh. I have central air. The room is 6 × 9. It get hot with use of the oven or washing the dishes. No room for a dish washer. I installed a ceiling fan with a light. The light switch doesn't turn on the light. When you pull on the fan the light barely comes on & wouldn't stay on. The fan works well. One switch is in the kitchen. The other one is on the wall going to the basement or a side door going outside or to Come in. The 1st switch has a black wire on every screw. One goes towards the other switch in the kitchen. The other 2 goes to a different switch for the landing light & the other one turn on the basement light. The big oval light I took down connect black wires together with what would call lead wires then the white wires were done the sane. That's how did it too what do I need to do to fix this. Plus the 2 nd switch isn't a three way just 2 screw on the right side & green ground screw on the left side. Thanks for you awesome video & explaining it. I am just so lost. You hep would be greatly appreciated!!
I am sorry. On the kitchen ceiling was a bid oval light. So I got a ceiling fan with a light on it. I took it down the bottom had two black & to white . One on each side they were wire ca🎉
Sorry cap twisted but a lead wire was added to be connected to the wires in the ceiling. So I did the exact same set up! The only thing I did that they didn't. They used one nail to hang the plastic outlet box. I got a metal one took a 9" lag bolt & 6 " one too. The 9" went into te rafters & the other one went sidewalk into a board.. it was a moving fan & light too!! Didn't want anything to happen.. I am sure the wires aren't connected to the Proper one's ! Is there a way I could send pictures of the outlet boxes & the bottom of the light I removed & the Wires hanging from the ceiling. I rent the house. I took down two ceiling lights up stairs & put a fan & lights kit up no problem whatsoever! Thec switch the wall going down or out has agreed way switch . the one in the kitchen isn't a three way.
@@handydadtv The first one, the white conductor is the grounded conductor, which must be present in all switch boxes ( if used or not). You would have to use 14/4, or 12/4 to feed and return from the same box. One of your other videos covered the white wire being in the switch box is correct this is now a code requirement, as you stated for future use.
I have 6 different pairs of switches like this in my house. 1 at either end of mud room controlling 1 light, 1at btm of stairs on main and its pair at top of stairs at 2nd floor for 1 stair light,, 1at top and base of basement stairs for 1 stair light, one in same box at base of basement stairs and its match on other side of room for celing lights, 1 on either sided of my kitchen contolling kitchen ceiling lights, and finally 1 at front door and one by kitchen that contold the entry hall. The Problem is ALL OF THEM work out of sync with its pair. Neither switch of each pair can be in the same position at the same time. If light is on, one is up and one is down. if light is off, one swith is up and one is down. How can I fix this??? It drives me N-U-T-S
@@handydadtv You're telling me that all of these switches are just installed upside down??? Or is there really a wiring miscue? If they are just upside down, is it best to always have the grounding screw at bottom? Basically, which one is best to flip? Funny thing is, I was joking with my wife a few days ago that I should just flip the switches upside down. She laughed at me. HA! Whos laughing now?
3-way switches have no “top” or “bottom”. It doesn’t matter which way the ground screw points. Just turn one over, change no wiring, and you’ll immediately sleep better at night.
Another way is to connect your travelers on your 14/3 to the gold screws on the switches, red and black to the respective locations on each switch. The black from the power (14/2) to the common (black screw). The black from the light (14/2) to the common on the other switch. The white wires remain neutral and will be connected together in each switch box. The white wires (neutral) are now connected directly from the power to the light and no need to make a white wire reconfigured as hot. This will also satisfy the code requirement that a neutral wire remains available in at least one box for the potential future upgrade to wifi switch/dimmer.
Quick question . I’m replacing a pre wired dimmer switch with a regular toggle switch . The pre wired dimmer has 2 red and 1 black . There is only 1 line coming into the box which contains black, red, white . The switch is wired black to black , red to red and red to white .? I can’t figure it out . Of course the switch doesn’t work but I’m not sure if the switch is bad or just the wiring is bad .. any help would be great
So the dimmer died and that’s why you’re replacing it? Sounds like a 3-way dimmer. You need a voltage tester to figure out where each wire goes. If you can’t, please call a handyman or electrician.
Man I been a electrician 3 years going on 4. Let me tell you sir, Not a lot of people like to explain or teach for job security but man I love the way you explain your work. I’ve watched other videos as some are good you are damn good at teaching and explaining. Your calling was definitely a electrician but also a teacher/instructor 🤙🏽
Would you believe I’m neither an electrician nor a teacher? My day job is an IT project manager. 😊
Thanks for the compliments. 👍🏻
I’m a new electrician going to college you explain me better than my professor I’m very glad I found this video
Wow thanks 😊
I second this comment, lol.
Best video I’ve watched on this! Thank you so much for explaining not only the “how” but the “why”!
Thanks so much 😊
Excellent video, thank's for lighting me up,your time, patience and great explanations. My wife will not believe me when she'll come home and that the three way switch is working well. You should have see/heard me yesterday trying!!! 😇
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
You are awesome teaching and make me feel like I can do this. And I did, you help me be confident and comfortable doing electrical stuff around my house. Because of people like you I think more people are more confident doing things on their own (at least in my case).
The only thing that I have to do is little more research is when you connected the second switch, you didn’t specify or show where the he wires go( like the white ones from the light and the power source) since I am not an electrician, I had to do a little digging. But overall awesome work and thank you so much for the videos that you make.
God bless you.
Glad you worked it out!
You deserve ever positive comment!! Believe me, as I have watched a number of videos to try and find a solution. I have two 3-way switches in a 4-inch box in my garage (that we never use) that I want to replace with outlets and just control the lights with the switches inside the house.
Maybe the solution is in this video and I just need a good night's sleep to help my head stop spinning long enough for it to register!
Thanks 😊 I find diagrams helpful as well. This video may help you draw the solution: ua-cam.com/video/aajyhWpU9fo/v-deo.html
@@handydadtv Thanks so much Chris! I fully agree as I have done exactly that when laying out our home network and TV with a bunch of other components. I'm confident that I will have to pigtail some wires to maintain the circuit for the lights and then just use the hot and neutral (which I have identified) for my outlets.
Thanks for taking the time!
Hi Chris- Thank you so much for sharing this video it really helped me chance the entire fixture off your video.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thanks for the exceptional explanation
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Great, thank you for taking the time to help people understand. Very, very helpful info.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
This is such a helpful video! Thank you!!!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Great instruction…thank you!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Nice job. Best I’ve seen. Makes total sense to me 👍🏼
Thanks so much 😊
Muchas gracias
Ahora tienes un Nuevo subscriptor
Gracias por compartir tu experiencia
👍🏻
I just installed a 3 way switch. Thanks to you
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Great video. Can you add additional lights to the 3-way switch? Example, 2 lights for 3-way switch? Thanks
Yes
Are these the circuits typically used in stairways where the upstairs and down stairs switches control the same light?
Yes and two entrances of big rooms.
I like the second way it’s much more simple for a guy coming from commercial/industrial.
It’s more common as well
Great video and explanation! I currently have the same set-up in the 2nd scenario, except my switches power an outlet. How can I change this to a constant hot outlet and then use switches for a light source?
Think it through. I think you’d need to abandon the 3-way circuit.
Chris thank you for your time in explaining the ever confusing 3-way 👍. Unlike others I am not an electrician by no means of the word but you broke this down to even I understood the process.
I am puting in 3 led ceiling lights and an exhaust fan in my bathroom and I am wanting to put them all on the same circuit and wire them with all on two 3-way switches. Can I run a 12/3 wire between the switches and then daisy chain the lights and exhaust fan with 12/2 wire?
I am wanting to wire them with 3-way because I have 2 doors for the master bath
First cardinal rule is to keep outlets and lighting on separate circuits. Otherwise your LED lights will flicker from the blow dryer, etc. Trust me. Don’t wire those lights from an outlet circuit.
Yes, you can put all the lights on the 3-way circuit. Makes perfect sense.
Personally, I would never wire the fan to always be on with the lights. I’d give it a separate switch near the shower. And I’d install a timer switch that has buttons for different times. Push the 15-minute button when you get in the shower so you can walk away and never forget to turn it off.
@@handydadtv Chris thanks for the feedback much appreciated. Yeah I didnt think it would be too big of any issue putting the outlets on the same circuit because this is an older model house built in the 80's.
However, after reading what you said and going back to find a solution I had to take out more drywall. This served to being a good thing due to the fact I found more electrical issues.
To fix it I will have to rewire a few more fixtures so I will be able to put lights on one circuit and my outlets on another.
Again thanks for letting me pick your brain and giving me a better solution
Keep up the good work my friend
@jerrywillis1800 Ah the 80s. I remember them well. No cell phones. No Internet. No HD flat screens.
Hi there, great video. You showed the setup for two different ways when kight fixture is last in line and when light fixture is in middle. How do you know which way yours is setup?
Thanks! You need to open everything up and use a non-contact voltage tester to find the power source.
@HandyDadTV Thank you. Do you have a video just like this one, but with smart light 3way switches?
Not yet, but in the works.
What did you do with the neutral from the power source? I am currently trying to create a new 3-way, but the only wires going to my switch are a hot and one to the light.
This may help:
ua-cam.com/video/7shOTaDE4j4/v-deo.html
I agree, I am still trying to understand 3-way after more than 2 years trying to figure it out on my own...I still have my stairs light only powering on one side....need to take time to fix it and make it work both, upstairs and downstairs 🙂
This may also be helpful ua-cam.com/video/aajyhWpU9fo/v-deo.html
Thank you for you tutorial.
My pleasure
Thanks for teaching about how travellers wires works. While troubleshooting i found the wires were going from the back of switch where one has release them white , red and black another black which is main or hot wire was passing through screw. Can we put red and white on the travel golden screws . The third black wire will from the back of switch position near release hole
Hard to follow. You can use white as a traveler, but wrap a piece of tape at both ends to indicate that it’s hot instead of neutral.
I came across your videos and love them. I do have an issue with my ceiling fan and can lights in my living room. I have two switches just in the video and both of them control the fan and lights. We can’t just turn the lights off and leave the fan on and vice versa. Do you have any ideas what it could be? I’ve racked my brain so many times trying to figure this out and I’m a do it myself kinda of guy.
I don’t know how old your house is, but odds are, your 3-way switches originally powered a light fixture in the middle of the ceiling. Then somebody replaced the light with a ceiling fan. Then somebody decided they needed more light so they wire the can lights from the box in the ceiling because that was the easiest thing to do.
How close am I?
At this point, it makes sense for the switches to control the lights but I’d rather see the fan have constant power so you can just use the pull chains or a remote to control it.
That could be easy or hard depending on how the 3-way circuit is wired. If power comes into the ceiling box and then loops through the switches, you can easily change the fan to have constant power.
If the power comes into a switch, flows to the other, then to the fan box, you’ll need to find a new power source for the fan.
You need to open the fan box and use a voltage tester to figure this out.
@@handydadtv My house was built in 1972 but I think you’re spot on with my situation. The only issue is I have a vaulted ceiling and in the center the fan hangs down but it’s 13’ from the center of the room. So checking on the fan to see how it’s wired is kinda out of the question. Can’t I pull out both light switches and see if there’s more than one set of wires running to the switches? I would think that the can lights are on one wire anyways and spit between the two switches.
@jasonlopez7480 Sure you can do look in the switches, but I can pretty much guarantee you’re not going to be happy. With a vaulted ceiling, I highly doubt the electrician ran power to the fan first. I’d bet it comes into one of the switches first.
@@handydadtv That sucks.. I took the can light bulbs out so we can run the fan but I know it’s not safe for that. So I’m pretty much screwed unless I rewire the entire thing.
@jasonlopez7480 I had NO fan box in my great room with a vaulted ceiling. Even I hired an electrician to do that install! ua-cam.com/video/VHs1XBdnCxs/v-deo.html
Now can you do one with a motion sensor on one side for stain wells? Leviton does one but only for single pole. One question I want to know is if the distance it too long for just one sensor then does my second sensor need to be a companion sensor or a slave sensor or just two of the same?
Thank you for teaching this subject.
I don’t know of any 3-way motion sensor switches. I’d opt to use home automation instead.
Just curious if I add an power outlet in the center instead of a light would it wire differently?
No, it’s the same for outlets.
Hello! I have a laundry room that I enter from a garage. There are two three-way switches, and the light worked great. I thought a motion sensing automatic switch would be a great idea, so I put it in place of one of the switches. I only worked inside that one box. However, now that its all done, the sensing switch only works if the switch I didn't work on is in one position. For the life of me, I can't seem to figure which wire is wrong inside the box with the sensing switch. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
You need to remove the other switch so the motion sensor has constant power.
But it's a three way sensor switch. It's a Lutron Maestro, with three way option.
And what would I do with those wires, in that unused box, if I eliminated it.
@bobhuston3894 Ok in that case, it sounds like you reversed the line with one of the travelers.
Hi there, great tutorial videos! I have 3 switches that control one light but have an issue when turning off as when i turn off one switch the light will turn off momentarily but will turn back on which I would need to go to the other switch and flip that one off to keep the light off. Its a real head scratcher and cant seem
to figure it out, any suggestions?
Sounds like a defective switch.
Thanks for the explanation. It was very helpful. My question is how would I take power from a 3 way to add a separate light and switch?
You could only do that from the box where power comes into the circuit. You need to identify the always hot wire.
Then follow this ua-cam.com/video/xOZv17BPTZA/v-deo.html
Great video! I am looking for wiring diagram that can help me troubleshoot 3-way circuit. Actually this might be considered a 4-way circuit, I'm not sure. I have two switches controlling two lights. One switch and one light at the bottom of the stairs and the other light with the other switch at the top of the stairs. The switches control the lights in the same way you described in this video, and the lights turn off and on together as if they were one light, the lights turn on together and turn off together. Recently the light fixture at the bottom of the stairs stopped working, tried several bulbs, no luck. The switch at the bottom of the stairs still works, it can still turn the light at the top on and off. Anyways I just wanted to find some sort of a relevant diagram before I did anything to it.
Any advice?
You can use Google Images to get diagrams, but chances are your electrician deviated from the standard method to use the least amount of wire.
When you drop the light, you may see a lot of other wires. Don’t waste your time trying to figure it out; just do a direct replacement using the same wires from the original light.
Thank you! I appreciate the input. Im not in a hurry to work on it, just a project near the bottom of the list. It has been like this for a while now.
You explained it best
Thanks so much 😊
Question: I have an existing flood light on a switch. I want to change fixture to a motion flood light. Do I have to have the switch on all the time? Or is there a way to tap into the hot wire and allow the new motion flood light to be active and at the same time be able to turn on with the switch on demand. Not sure if that is possible. Sue
The best practice is to simply leave the switch on all the time. Most motion floodlights have a manual override so you can turn it on by toggling the switch off and on.
Let’s say you are adding in a hanging light above a kitchen island and there happens to be a 3 way switch for the kitchen lights can you designate one of those switches to the new light ?
Not without rewiring the circuit. I’d leave the 3-way circuit alone and add a switch for the new light. Not easy, but that’s the best long term solution.
Hi love the content!
Need help bad.
My daughter would like to replace a light in the kitchen but I can’t figure out the sequences of wires.
3 ground wires
3 black ( one is hot)
1 red
3 white
I hooked them light to them lights on but can’t shut it off. The other two lights don’t come on.
Or two lights come on.and switch works. But the light I’m working on is off.
When replacing a fixture, always reconnect the new light to the same wires as the old one. I’m assuming she didn’t mark those wires and she doesn’t remember how it was wired.
Glad to hear you have a voltage tester! If you connect all the black wires, is the red hot only when the switch is on? If so, connect that to the black wire on the light.
I was always taught the second way you did it.
Thanks
What do you do with the white wire comming from the light to the
first switch box( in the first senario)! Thank you!
Sorry it wasn’t clear. The two white wires are neutrals; they get connected together.
@@handydadtv Got it, thank you!
just perfect . TNX
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Nice Video.. My issue is I have a three way coming into the light from a switch thats hot. and I need to put another light switch on the other wall coming from that light box. Any idea I've searched all over and cant find any video of a three wire coming into the light switch from another switch. Any help from someone would be greatfully appreciated.
Do you mean the light will be wired *in between* the two switches?
Yes I shoud of said its a three wire with a ground , whats strange is they have a single blue wire hooked to the first switch on the bottom screw to the right, I did test the black and white and it does work off the first switch but I'm left with the red and this blue wire. I need to run a three wire to another switch from that light. After looking more into it just now the three wire is hooked up to the first switch and there is another wire looks like the hot, So I have a switch the red wire is hooked to the left side top, the black from the three wire is hooked to the top right and the hot and this blue wire is hooked to the bottom together, as I said this one single blue wire is running to the light. its an older house built in 1970 @@handydadtv
Somebody else was messing with it and never took a picture how it was wired when he took the light down because it was cracked. if so I wouldnt be posting this. he said there was a white wire not hooked up it was just in the box with no wire nut.🤨
Do you have a video showing how to take one light and make it two on the same switch? I would like to take my one bathroom light that's in the center and create two side sconces instead.
No specific video on adding lights (yet) but they just get added in parallel to the original light: white to white and black to black.
Great video. You should turn on super thanks.
Thanks so much
thx buddy you are awesome.
Thanks so much 😊
I watch this video you sent me, but I'm still a little confused, my circuit breaker panel is downstairs. Making me believe that the source of the power is going to the lower switch, then the travel wires brings it up to the top of the stairs switch. That's the one I'm tapping off of to add that outlet. Is there any way to make that outlet hot all the time. Not shut off when either upper or lower switch is turned on for over head light
You could abandon the traveler and change them to smart switches. That’s the only way to have a constant hot at the top switch.
@@handydadtv I appreciate you getting back to me, but I'll probably just leave it the way it is. I'm fine with it, my main reason to put the outlet in was just to put a night light there, to light up the first couple of steps at the top of the landing. Then once I turn the switch on to put over head light on, I really don't need it anymore, because the the whole stairway is lit up. But thank you again for your quick response
When using the white for hot what's used for neutral?
In that scenario, there won’t be a neutral in that switch box.
How do you add a new light, switch, and then receptacle (in that order), when the power source is in the light at the top of the wall from attic? Is there a video with this scenario?
No video for that specific situation, but these will help:
ua-cam.com/video/-WufbstcvRw/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/xOZv17BPTZA/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/wRSgemIxamU/v-deo.html
I noticed that on the switches the red and black wires were transposed at the top. Would it make a difference if, say both black were on the left side?
The brass screws are for the travelers and they are reversible.
Good video
Thanks 😊
Need help, so I have the 3 way setting. I'm replacing one switch with a combo (switch + outlet). In that switch, I have 2 traveller wires. that will power the light depending on the switch position. And 1 cable that brings the power to the light bulb. I installed the switch + combo. The 3 ways work normally but I don't know how to bring power to the outlet. i want them to be separated. so I need power at all times in the outlet. suggestions?
You can only use that switch/outlet combo in the switchbox where you have constant power.
In a previously installed 3-way switch house, What is the easiest way to find which of the two is the one that is first connected to the circuit? I need this to replace only one with the WiFi 3-way, instead of changing both as I am told it will work and save me an extra wifi socket that way.
Pull them out and inspect the wires. Find the hot leg and the one that goes to the light. Then adapt it for your new switch. They’re all different.
So do you need 3 wire from the breaker?
No
How can you add and extra light to that 3 ways switch?
Great video by the way 👍🏼
It’s easier to wire another light from the existing light.
Best video sharing
Thanks so much 😊
Could you make a video on putting a timer on a 3 way switch?
Timer, no. But I’ll be doing a smart switch soon that supposedly works with 3-way circuits.
I have a light in a hallway wired just like your intro diagram and I assumed I could add multiple fixtures from the original light and that isn’t working
Ignore the switches and how the circuit is wired. You can always add lights by wiring them to the same hot and neutral on an existing light.
You can fix pilot lamp for all switches, we can know the light on if the switches in different area
Not sure that’s possible without smart switches.
Hi again! I know you are doing a video about this, but I need help. I have a 3-way smart switch. Specifically, the Kasa 3way wifi smart switch and every single diagram I see, the assumption is the power goes from 1st switch to 2nd switch then to the light fixture. My switches are run differently, my power runs to 1st switch then to the light fixture and then to 2nd switch. None of the examples show this type of setup, and I am wondering if 3way smart switches only work when power goes to switch 1 then switch 2 then fixture? And not any other way.
The issue in your scenario is the second switch doesn’t have a neutral. I believe Kasa switches always require a neutral.
@@handydadtv Hi there, thanks for responding. We have neutrals in both locations. All our switch boxes have neutrals
If the second 3-way switch has the white wire connected to it, that’s NOT a neutral.
Ok sorry, the box has neutral wire. The main switch for the 3way is in a two gang box (main switch has a neutral required) the satellite or companion switch is in a 4 gang box, but the satellite switch requires traveler 2 and load on one screw, traveler 1 on 2nd screw and ground wire that needs to be tied into other ground wires.
Wow. I think I got it but it’s really hard to grasp. I might have to buy that kit to play with it.
One thing to note, however, is that you’re talking about “borrowing” the neutral that didn’t originate with your light. You can’t do that if it’s on a different circuit because it creates a shock hazard when working on either circuit unless both are off.
That's was one of my Physics 201 practical in Year 2
Good job
I have a switch box with two yellow and a red wire connected to the switch I am adding recessed lights how do I connect the new white and black wire to that switch for correct operation?
That’s non-standard wiring. Please call an electrician.
Thanks to you, I'm understanding this concept. Now...I don't suppose you could do a video on hooking up a 4-way, using all Insteon switches? I have what has to be the most confusing situation of all time. Three switches all operating the fluorescents in my garage, and two of them are ganged together with switches that control other loads. Worst of all, I detect hot on TWO of the fluorescent switches - not one, but TWO. And the kicker is, I once had this all wired correctly, but I had to replace a bad switch, and it all went south.
Actually, never mind. I need to bite the bullet and hire an electrician!
The 4-way is in my queue but I know it won’t get many views.
@@handydadtv Well, you can count on mine! ...if that's any solace...
HELP please hello is there any way you can explain to me what to do if the light will not come on. I removed the switch and light fixture and checked the wiring and everything looks correct. They were connected to a single pole switch I went and got 3-way switches and rewired.
Am I doing something wrong. Do I have to go in the ceiling to check...
I know power runs from receptacle outlet to switch from switch to light fixture and the light fixture will not come on. Not sure what to do HELP please
It’s impossible to say. You need to get a voltage tester and figure it out. Sorry.
explain diffrent switches identifiying what is needed
I don’t understand
What if each switch box has a connection to a light. Switch box 1 has 14-2 to a light, and switch box 2 has 14-2 to a light. And 14-3 goes from sw box 1 to sw box 2. Also, the hot 14-2 comes into sw box 1. How do you wire 3-way switches so either switch can still control both lights?
If power comes into box 1, the other 14/2 probably goes elsewhere down the circuit, not to the light.
three way switches are all the same; they work as a variable switch; a first switch(line switch) receives current at the separate end terminal; the second switch(load switch) feeds current from its separate end terminal over to the light; "HandyDadTV" wasn't at all handy explaining the necessity and functionality of the two Hot wires needed between the switches - "travel wires", "travelers" or "pared wires"
Leviton DOS05-1LZ 3way motion sensor
images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/6e/6e6b2429-0303-4a9f-bb1d-10d4aaa0f11f.pdf
How dou know wish is 15amp and wish 12 amp.
What happen if you put the
Wrong amp in the wrong
Cable
Find the circuit breaker and look at the number on it.
I have a confusing problem with a 3 way circuit.when the light is on it can be turned off from either switch, when it is off it can only be turned on by the switch it was turned on with. Help!
It sounds like it wasn’t wired correctly for a 3-way circuit. Get a meter and troubleshoot it, or call an electrician.
Why skip. Walk everything through it make it easier.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
I have a 3-way switch setup connected by a 12/2, not 12/3, wire. The neutral in one box is capped and the neutral in the other box is also capped. But, somehow the 3-way switch works.
Sounds like they used the black wire from the second cable as a red. That’s why you don’t need the extra neutral.
@@handydadtv I'm trying to install a smart light switch that requires a neutral wire. Should I just go ahead and cap off the neutral wire from the new switch since the neutral wire in the box is not being used?
It’s impossible to answer in a comment because wiring has many variations. You can watch videos to learn the basics, but you need to develop the skill to troubleshoot and figure things out. Don’t hesitate to contact an electrician for a complex situation.
There are 3 switches in my bedroom. Each switch can turn on or off the ligh bulb. (Only 1 light bulb)
1 switch doesn't work. I bought a Legrand switch to replace it.
There are only 2 cables coming out of the wall, one blue (N) one white (L). The new switch works OK but now the other two do not.
Can anybody help please?
I have no idea what kind of circuit that is. Three switches means it’s a 4-way circuit, but you should have more than 2 wires.
My problem is everything is hooked up. I took down a ligh. I have central air. The room is 6 × 9. It get hot with use of the oven or washing the dishes. No room for a dish washer. I installed a ceiling fan with a light. The light switch doesn't turn on the light. When you pull on the fan the light barely comes on & wouldn't stay on. The fan works well. One switch is in the kitchen. The other one is on the wall going to the basement or a side door going outside or to Come in. The 1st switch has a black wire on every screw. One goes towards the other switch in the kitchen. The other 2 goes to a different switch for the landing light & the other one turn on the basement light. The big oval light I took down connect black wires together with what would call lead wires then the white wires were done the sane. That's how did it too what do I need to do to fix this. Plus the 2 nd switch isn't a three way just 2 screw on the right side & green ground screw on the left side. Thanks for you awesome video & explaining it. I am just so lost. You hep would be greatly appreciated!!
I’m lost too.
It sounds like it wasn't wired correctly for a 3-way switch setup. Get a test light or a meter and troubleshoot it or call an electrician.
I do have a extra 3 way switch. I don't have any extra wires in the back of outlet Box.
I’m not sure what you’re trying to do.
@@handydadtv1
You never said where to put the white wire from the power wire.
The white wire is neutral and just passes through to the light.
I am sorry. On the kitchen ceiling was a bid oval light. So I got a ceiling fan with a light on it. I took it down the bottom had two black & to white . One on each side they were wire ca🎉
Sorry cap twisted but a lead wire was added to be connected to the wires in the ceiling. So I did the exact same set up! The only thing I did that they didn't. They used one nail to hang the plastic outlet box. I got a metal one took a 9" lag bolt & 6 " one too. The 9" went into te rafters & the other one went sidewalk into a board.. it was a moving fan & light too!! Didn't want anything to happen.. I am sure the wires aren't connected to the
Proper one's ! Is there a way
I could send pictures of the outlet boxes & the bottom of the light I removed & the Wires hanging from the ceiling. I rent the house. I took down two ceiling lights up stairs & put a fan & lights kit up no problem whatsoever! Thec switch the wall going down or out has agreed way switch . the one in the kitchen isn't a three way.
@kennethlewsader824 I can’t follow. Please call an electrician, especially in a rental.
I'm not a fan of relabeling conductors I know it's legal in a NM cabling. Black and red are suppose to be the traveler wires.
Agree
Good for it.. you are so sweet
Thanks 😊
@@handydadtv thank you for your help you have self my problem.
You have great communication skills. Many Blessings
I’m doing a four way, both three ways work if four way in one position, but nothing if you flip it😂
That video is on my to-do list.
1:09
14G wire = 15 Amp circuit
12G wire = 20 Amp
Yes
It's ok to use 12 wire on a 15amp circuit?
Yes, you can always exceed the minimum specs.
@@handydadtv Thanks your videos are IMMENSELY HELPFUL
Just used 12/2 with a seperate neutral, didnt have 12/3
Make sure to mark the non-neutral white wire so it’s redesigned as a hot.
Code violation the white wire can no longer be used in a switch loop per the NEC.
Which method was wrong? What should be done differently?
@@handydadtv The first one, the white conductor is the grounded conductor, which must be present in all switch boxes ( if used or not). You would have to use 14/4, or 12/4 to feed and return from the same box. One of your other videos covered the white wire being in the switch box is correct this is now a code requirement, as you stated for future use.
Wow thanks for pointing this out!
@@handydadtv Based on @BruceHill I should just use your second example, which actually seems a bit easier to do?
Yes, if you’re doing a new installation, use the second method.
Why is this a 3-way switch?
1st way: Common contact connected to contact A
2nd way: Common contact connected to contact B
Where is the 3rd way?
I believe they call it a 3-way switch because it requires three conductors.
I can't make it work. There is either power at all times at the second switch or no power at the second switch.
Keep trying. You’ll get it.
@handydadtv I've stopped at each step on the video and have mirrored each step. The only difference is my switch is a paddle switch.
And the brass screws are on opposite ends with the black screw next to the brass .
Well I figured it out. I guess you have to have the light fixtures installed
Works
@bigdaddy3181 Are you 100% sure it’s a 3-way switch? It should have 4 screws, including ground.
Ok, now I’m confused 😂
3-ways are confusing.
I have 6 different pairs of switches like this in my house. 1 at either end of mud room controlling 1 light, 1at btm of stairs on main and its pair at top of stairs at 2nd floor for 1 stair light,, 1at top and base of basement stairs for 1 stair light, one in same box at base of basement stairs and its match on other side of room for celing lights, 1 on either sided of my kitchen contolling kitchen ceiling lights, and finally 1 at front door and one by kitchen that contold the entry hall. The Problem is ALL OF THEM work out of sync with its pair. Neither switch of each pair can be in the same position at the same time. If light is on, one is up and one is down. if light is off, one swith is up and one is down. How can I fix this??? It drives me N-U-T-S
Turn one of them over.
@@handydadtv You're telling me that all of these switches are just installed upside down??? Or is there really a wiring miscue?
If they are just upside down, is it best to always have the grounding screw at bottom? Basically, which one is best to flip?
Funny thing is, I was joking with my wife a few days ago that I should just flip the switches upside down. She laughed at me. HA! Whos laughing now?
3-way switches have no “top” or “bottom”. It doesn’t matter which way the ground screw points.
Just turn one over, change no wiring, and you’ll immediately sleep better at night.
Soo confusing
I tried 🤷🏻♂️
Another way is to connect your travelers on your 14/3 to the gold screws on the switches, red and black to the respective locations on each switch. The black from the power (14/2) to the common (black screw). The black from the light (14/2) to the common on the other switch. The white wires remain neutral and will be connected together in each switch box. The white wires (neutral) are now connected directly from the power to the light and no need to make a white wire reconfigured as hot. This will also satisfy the code requirement that a neutral wire remains available in at least one box for the potential future upgrade to wifi switch/dimmer.
Bahlllllllahhhhaaaattttt.. stickum...hahaha....schtickum
🤨
Totally confused
Sorry
Quick question . I’m replacing a pre wired dimmer switch with a regular toggle switch . The pre wired dimmer has 2 red and 1 black .
There is only 1 line coming into the box which contains black, red, white .
The switch is wired black to black , red to red and red to white .? I can’t figure it out . Of course the switch doesn’t work but I’m not sure if the switch is bad or just the wiring is bad .. any help would be great
So the dimmer died and that’s why you’re replacing it?
Sounds like a 3-way dimmer. You need a voltage tester to figure out where each wire goes. If you can’t, please call a handyman or electrician.
Good video
Thanks 😊
Good video
Thanks 😊