Increasing the brace height does not take power out. It is true that it does reduce the distance the string is pulling the arrow (draw) which is an important part of of the draw x force curve which equals power. When you increase brace height you may have decreased draw but you have increased the pound force for every inch of your draw expecially nearing full draw. This increase in power at full draw and every inch of draw makes up for a slight decrease in power due to a shorter draw curve. The difference is not huge so as usual shoot the brace height that feels best. Experementation with spine, chronograph and plotting draw curves bears this out.
Haha, tag, you’re it! Lol! Funny, I only find you in, what you might call obscure, archery videos on UA-cam. It’s like you’ve watched them all, hehe 😂😁✌🏽 peace brother, I’m sure I will run into you again. Why the All Mighty has us strung together, I don’t know, but I don’t question, because I know it’s good, and that’s all that really matters 🙂
@@HandyL Amen brother I pray we UA-cam brothers!!!!!! will be His Archers in His mighty army. May we be so lucky, Stay covered in His armor my good friend. God Bless Handy.
@@staffordsanpei7804 if it's an R/D I'd probably start around 6.75" and work my way up, expecting the sweet spot to be somewhere between 7" and 8". If it's a hill style bow, I'd start around 6" or just below and work my way up. There is more to this that I could more easily explain over the phone if you want to call at some point
Hi there, I'm ew to asl bows. I was wondering how would you personally string your bow? Do you use a bowstring? Also, do you leave your bow strung up while storing it for short term? Thank you for the tips in your videos.
I use the push pull method to string and unstring, very simple, safe and quick. Personally I unstring after every shooting session because unstringing takes about a half a second and leaves no possibility of anything going wrong. That said, you probably aren't going to cause issues by leaving it strung for a few days or so, but what I caution people on is - So we know recurves and wide limbed Longbows take very little set because the fiberglass is what the majority of the limb is composed of, and fiberglass has neutral elastic and compression properties, which means that glass will always want to go back to it's original state. ASLs, however, even though they have fiberglass on the back and belly take more of a set, because they have very thick cores. Some ASL designs are worse than others as far as how much set they will take but all in all, the more core, the more set it will take. Now go to self bows, the longer you leave them strung the more set they will take because they are only wood and have no backing that wants to go back to it's original position, so since the wood fibers can be stretched or strained, reducing the elastic properties that do want to go back to the original position, they keep taking more set. So without getting too technical, the longer you leave it strung, the chance of taking more set increases. Really if it's a day or two or seven, as long as it doesn't get hot, I wouldn't worry about it, but I wouldn't leave it strung much longer
Tune the arrows not the bow imo, . 25 inch on brace won't make any difference if your arrows are tuned properly and your nock point is correct for your release and your release is clean. Don't drop brace height too low or it will cause a dry fire effect, limbs won't stop when they should. Just IMO and 30m and under is my distance. Targets and killing shit, never a step more. If it's too far then the string don't drop.....I also don't shoot less than 60#@30m, 40#@15m. Drive em in their.
That’s genius! Using brace height to fine tune the bow to the arrow. You deserve an archery Oscar/Academy Award if there were one. Thanks for this!
Increasing the brace height does not take power out. It is true that it does reduce the distance the string is pulling the arrow (draw) which is an important part of of the draw x force curve which equals power. When you increase brace height you may have decreased draw but you have increased the pound force for every inch of your draw expecially nearing full draw. This increase in power at full draw and every inch of draw makes up for a slight decrease in power due to a shorter draw curve. The difference is not huge so as usual shoot the brace height that feels best. Experementation with spine, chronograph and plotting draw curves bears this out.
Finally. Someone gets it right! I argue incessantly about this with people.
Great information appreciate ya. God Bless
Haha, tag, you’re it! Lol! Funny, I only find you in, what you might call obscure, archery videos on UA-cam. It’s like you’ve watched them all, hehe 😂😁✌🏽 peace brother, I’m sure I will run into you again. Why the All Mighty has us strung together, I don’t know, but I don’t question, because I know it’s good, and that’s all that really matters 🙂
@@HandyL Amen brother I pray we UA-cam brothers!!!!!! will be His Archers in His mighty army. May we be so lucky,
Stay covered in His armor my good friend.
God Bless Handy.
Great content, keep them coming!
This is crazy, by now , you tube should have built in volume correction for its members and customers.
I have a custom made 64" long bow. the recommended brace height is unknown. Where would I start from? Very informative video. Thank you
@@staffordsanpei7804 if it's an R/D I'd probably start around 6.75" and work my way up, expecting the sweet spot to be somewhere between 7" and 8". If it's a hill style bow, I'd start around 6" or just below and work my way up. There is more to this that I could more easily explain over the phone if you want to call at some point
Thanks for sharing this information.
Hi there, I'm ew to asl bows. I was wondering how would you personally string your bow? Do you use a bowstring? Also, do you leave your bow strung up while storing it for short term? Thank you for the tips in your videos.
I use the push pull method to string and unstring, very simple, safe and quick. Personally I unstring after every shooting session because unstringing takes about a half a second and leaves no possibility of anything going wrong. That said, you probably aren't going to cause issues by leaving it strung for a few days or so, but what I caution people on is - So we know recurves and wide limbed Longbows take very little set because the fiberglass is what the majority of the limb is composed of, and fiberglass has neutral elastic and compression properties, which means that glass will always want to go back to it's original state. ASLs, however, even though they have fiberglass on the back and belly take more of a set, because they have very thick cores. Some ASL designs are worse than others as far as how much set they will take but all in all, the more core, the more set it will take.
Now go to self bows, the longer you leave them strung the more set they will take because they are only wood and have no backing that wants to go back to it's original position, so since the wood fibers can be stretched or strained, reducing the elastic properties that do want to go back to the original position, they keep taking more set.
So without getting too technical, the longer you leave it strung, the chance of taking more set increases. Really if it's a day or two or seven, as long as it doesn't get hot, I wouldn't worry about it, but I wouldn't leave it strung much longer
Tune the arrows not the bow imo,
. 25 inch on brace won't make any difference if your arrows are tuned properly and your nock point is correct for your release and your release is clean. Don't drop brace height too low or it will cause a dry fire effect, limbs won't stop when they should. Just IMO and 30m and under is my distance. Targets and killing shit, never a step more. If it's too far then the string don't drop.....I also don't shoot less than 60#@30m, 40#@15m. Drive em in their.
So true, you tune the arrow. Thaty means weight FOC, spineness,length of shaft, etc.......BH is important but the arrow and it's tune is more so.