@@briansmythe3000 yeah that creak was so bad i could feel it, but i was kind of being lazy about it and thought it was my derelict front fork . If the down tube broke that whole thing would fall apart 🫠🫣🫨
Going to take some steel plates like 1/8” thick, and cut them in such a way where they can be welded on each side of the frame connecting the head tube , down tube, and top tube, lol probably make the steel plate large enough where its going further down the tubing past where the crack is happening. Is kind of how i imagine it. Like the gussets on a bmx or something but probably chunky and more Frankenstein . 😂 maybe i can fit the phaserunner up in the frame and have the welded plates hide it ?? Not sure. My brother will just weld some shit on there and I’ll go with it 😂
Sometimes you may want to find out with a good welder to get an opinion. The ARISUN tires, do you know any suppliers of where to get em plus ➕️ the ARISUN 26X4.90 INNER TUBES?? Versus Chaoyang.
@@dennisvoltaire1146 think when i had both motors on the same 72v 20ah battery it was like 90 pounds or something. Much lighter than any pre built dual motor bike, but of course the frame didn’t hold up over 4 years like a proper ebike would. I know Each motor wheel with flat out in the tube weights 20 pounds
How about damage caused by vibrations and the bike frame without suspension, I ride in the mountains and the whole bike shakes a lot, does it have a very negative impact on the bike's battery pack, I have it in a Polly 9 case, are there any ways to reduce these battery vibrations? when moving over rocks.
@@orbit5449 ya definitely , its a hard tail, I’ve been riding this bike for 3 Years, in the rain and winter salty roads etc. so this bike has seen it all ! Yeah the battery construction is important if you are riding hard especially. But in general an ebike battery should be assumed to be subject to lots of vibration. And built accordingly. Spot welds and nickel strips alone aren’t Enough
🤷... New frame or are you going to repair it?. If you're going to keep riding it, I would at least drill a pinhole at the end of the crack to keep it from progressing any farther
i always give the janky repair a try Lol, Gonna try to weld it back together with some extra metal plates on it , "gussets"?? i guess they call them, like bmx bikes and old mountain bikes.
@@EBikeBuilder_ put all that stuff on your cheetah. got the full suspension right? I had my bike about a month and frankensteined the shit out of it. I'm sure it broke the warranty but who's to know. Besides warranty replacement takes forever. It's easier just to order the parts and eat the cost. Also, I was thinking that's a really odd spot to crack. I would think it'd be closer to the weld. Hopefully it isn't something crazy like the down tube is actually two pieces assembled in two different jigs and that section was induction welded. Scandalous idea. 😂
@@BrettWoodBiking yeah the cheetah is a possibility, i was hoping to make the cheetah into a long range bike since it has the two batteries and i can hook up external ones easily. But yeah idk 🤷♂️ at this point. I’m kind of over the front motor, its a novelty, admittedly nice to have in the winter- it can go places a rear hub can’t, and i would miss it in that aspect. But the dual hubs are kind of heavy. And I’m getting sick of fat bikes too, i like my axum the best. So ill probably have to ride the cheetah as my fat bike for a while. It would be really easy to put the front motor wheel on the cheetah. Could swap the fork onto it. Still working on the collab though, they don’t like long videos i guess , idk. Going to finish that collab v soon and get started with customizing
Wow, seems the stress from accelerating with the front motor did it like you say. Either a steel or aluminum frame should be repairable if you don't let it get any worse, but I am not 🚫 an experienced welder. It would seem your welds are stronger than the frame as the weld didn't fail as a good weld should be stronger than the material welded so get a pro to weld it up if your not 🚫 a great welder.
Yeah if the battery can only do 40 amps - run it at that, 40/45 is 88% of max, so pas 4/5 , pas 8/9, etc. the hub motor itself doesn’t care about the voltage, its the controller that might care about going from 48v to 52v but in some circumstances the 48v controller works fine on 52v . Only thing about a 48v controller on a 52v battery, is you might be able to drain the battery more than a 52v battery should be drained, but assuming the battery has a functioning BMS it should turn off when it hits the 52v low voltage. TLDR is yeah it’ll probably work. Unless something doesn’t like going above 54.6V . Cuz the 52v battery will charge up to 58.8V. I have had a bike with a 48v controller where it wouldn’t let me use a fully charged 52v battery on it, i could only charge up to 56v instead of 58.8v , for example
Hi-tin steel usually bends instead of cracking. Chromoly usually breaks at the welds.
Weld in some gussets for more strength.
yeah, it's gonna need Somethin Extra, Lol !!
At Least Ya Found it Now , and Not after barreling down the Road at 50 MPH , Or after Wheeling Into a Fence LOL
@@briansmythe3000 yeah that creak was so bad i could feel it, but i was kind of being lazy about it and thought it was my derelict front fork . If the down tube broke that whole thing would fall apart 🫠🫣🫨
wow! Time to weld! Or new frame?
Going to take some steel plates like 1/8” thick, and cut them in such a way where they can be welded on each side of the frame connecting the head tube , down tube, and top tube, lol probably make the steel plate large enough where its going further down the tubing past where the crack is happening. Is kind of how i imagine it. Like the gussets on a bmx or something but probably chunky and more Frankenstein . 😂 maybe i can fit the phaserunner up in the frame and have the welded plates hide it ?? Not sure. My brother will just weld some shit on there and I’ll go with it 😂
Sometimes you may want to find out with a good welder to get an opinion. The ARISUN tires, do you know any suppliers of where to get em plus ➕️ the ARISUN 26X4.90 INNER TUBES?? Versus Chaoyang.
How much does that beast weigh? I have a Mongoose Argus Steel fat bike, looks fun to do this dual motor project. Hate buying pre-built
@@dennisvoltaire1146 think when i had both motors on the same 72v 20ah battery it was like 90 pounds or something. Much lighter than any pre built dual motor bike, but of course the frame didn’t hold up over 4 years like a proper ebike would. I know Each motor wheel with flat out in the tube weights 20 pounds
How about damage caused by vibrations and the bike frame without suspension, I ride in the mountains and the whole bike shakes a lot, does it have a very negative impact on the bike's battery pack, I have it in a Polly 9 case, are there any ways to reduce these battery vibrations? when moving over rocks.
@@orbit5449 ya definitely , its a hard tail, I’ve been riding this bike for 3 Years, in the rain and winter salty roads etc. so this bike has seen it all ! Yeah the battery construction is important if you are riding hard especially. But in general an ebike battery should be assumed to be subject to lots of vibration. And built accordingly. Spot welds and nickel strips alone aren’t Enough
🤷... New frame or are you going to repair it?. If you're going to keep riding it, I would at least drill a pinhole at the end of the crack to keep it from progressing any farther
i always give the janky repair a try Lol, Gonna try to weld it back together with some extra metal plates on it , "gussets"?? i guess they call them, like bmx bikes and old mountain bikes.
@@EBikeBuilder_ put all that stuff on your cheetah. got the full suspension right? I had my bike about a month and frankensteined the shit out of it. I'm sure it broke the warranty but who's to know. Besides warranty replacement takes forever. It's easier just to order the parts and eat the cost.
Also, I was thinking that's a really odd spot to crack. I would think it'd be closer to the weld. Hopefully it isn't something crazy like the down tube is actually two pieces assembled in two different jigs and that section was induction welded. Scandalous idea. 😂
@@BrettWoodBiking yeah the cheetah is a possibility, i was hoping to make the cheetah into a long range bike since it has the two batteries and i can hook up external ones easily. But yeah idk 🤷♂️ at this point. I’m kind of over the front motor, its a novelty, admittedly nice to have in the winter- it can go places a rear hub can’t, and i would miss it in that aspect. But the dual hubs are kind of heavy. And I’m getting sick of fat bikes too, i like my axum the best. So ill probably have to ride the cheetah as my fat bike for a while. It would be really easy to put the front motor wheel on the cheetah. Could swap the fork onto it. Still working on the collab though, they don’t like long videos i guess , idk. Going to finish that collab v soon and get started with customizing
Wow, seems the stress from accelerating with the front motor did it like you say. Either a steel or aluminum frame should be repairable if you don't let it get any worse, but I am not 🚫 an experienced welder. It would seem your welds are stronger than the frame as the weld didn't fail as a good weld should be stronger than the material welded so get a pro to weld it up if your not 🚫 a great welder.
Can I run a 52v 20ah 40amp battery with a 45amp controller? My hub is 48v 1500w.
Yeah if the battery can only do 40 amps - run it at that, 40/45 is 88% of max, so pas 4/5 , pas 8/9, etc. the hub motor itself doesn’t care about the voltage, its the controller that might care about going from 48v to 52v but in some circumstances the 48v controller works fine on 52v . Only thing about a 48v controller on a 52v battery, is you might be able to drain the battery more than a 52v battery should be drained, but assuming the battery has a functioning BMS it should turn off when it hits the 52v low voltage. TLDR is yeah it’ll probably work. Unless something doesn’t like going above 54.6V . Cuz the 52v battery will charge up to 58.8V. I have had a bike with a 48v controller where it wouldn’t let me use a fully charged 52v battery on it, i could only charge up to 56v instead of 58.8v , for example
@@EBikeBuilder_ Thank you.