Відео

i have it set to 2 amps on my phaserunner. So its about 150w, yes you are correct its very easy to stop with just the brakes. Or gravity will stop you if youre going up hill etc. I think the jerkyness was partially from the magnet cogging. and maybe the sleep in my script. I might try to make it run in real time withuot a sleep to see if its not as jerky. But yes its such a low current, very easy to stop, i have it so when the motor RPM drops below a certain value it will stop the freewheeling.

U can get the speed to show up right if you set the motor poles, gearing and gear ratio correctly in VESC, then take your actual wheel diameter in MM and divide it by 29.1 the internal reduction of the HD. And in my case about 33MM wheel diameter gives me the right speed. Of course it only shows the correct speed when the motor is going and the bike is moving. It would be helpful to use a wheel speed sensor, But Im not sure if there's a way to override the speed that is displayed in VESC TOOL? i would have to check. I think the speed that is displayed in vesc is based on the RPM of the motor. And if i want to calculate a speed separately, it may involve display the speed on a different display or something, like the flipsky TFT screen that uses GPS for the speed. It would probably require changes to the VESC TOOL app, since that currently only shows the speed directly from the motor RPMs. But if there's a way to do it im not aware of, it would be easy, I also think it would be fairly easy to implement in the VESC TOOL app. I think in time, the wheel speed sensor will be in VESC, along with more ebike features. But it will require some coding in VESC itself to integrate. STay tuned I am gonna keep workin on the VESC ebike stuff!

i'm not pushing the flipsky anywhere near it's rating, with the exception of being on 72V. i've heard of some people having problems with the older Flipsky that didnt have the phase filtering implemented. But the Pro v2 seems OK so far, its the first one I have tried. It was only 100$ and TBH i have had more problems with Grin phaserunners that cost 4x as much

@@EBikeBuilder_ Still not sure what problems should I expect from a Phaserunner which is considered to be gold standard on endless-sphere despite the fact that it's still not built up to automotive or industrial standards. Bulky cheapo plug and play 3 speed controllers are still the only ones optimised for ebike use according to Chalo.

Nice!! My bud!! 🎊 🎉 I’ve had several people say they got open box flipskys from Amazon, so jeff bozos is really dropping the ball 🏀 😅

Mine are reversed with a street tire on front & a knobby tire on the back for traction.

Feels like my rear tire isn’t going bald , and my front tire has great traction and never wears out 😂🎉👍👍 turning sharp at low speeds feels a bit “knobby” Not too bad tho

@@EBikeBuilder_ sick!

@@reyaz8531 i took the rear knobby off Cuz it was wearing down UNBELIEVABLY fast, kind of a waste. But my front tire barely ever wears out

So i can see it outside in the sun 😂 and in screen recordings 🎉

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

@@oldmanwithebike thanks mate I appreciate that!! Stay tuned i am working on vesc scripting right now!

🤣😂 roadies get SO MAD! you could make a whole channel just with roadie ebike reactions. 😂 And its a recumbent What kind of a police will have a problem with that? where I live if they tried to take away ebikes, they would have a bunch of elderly in trikes trying to run them down. Ebikes are a blessing for the elderly and unfortunately these accessibility options are being hindered by legislation

And 50A FW is little bit too much although it’s fun but it produces lots of heat in the motor and the phase wires

with the 02 i wouldn’t try a flipsky at all , i wrecked one! 😬 with a Phaserunner.. yeah 50% fw is a bit much, but its fun for a short ride

@@EBikeBuilder_ it worked very good with the 02 ran at the end of the project 150A with beefed up Phasewires 6awg external heatsinks, steel gear inside had insane torque picked up my wheel at 50kmh.

I’ve added mine to my shorts, unfortunately I don’t have the latest videos

@@JansBlog_officialwhat phase amps were you using though and max watts? I had my 02 on a phaserunner doing 2000W. And i think 90 phase amps and the rotor got totally destroyed. I don’t even think i had field weakening turned on. It couldn’t handle ANYTHING it sucks compared to the HD. I wouldn’t try FW with the 02 at all because it has the magnets glued on and its not an IPM rotor

@@nemohunter87 well for whatever reason this bike works fine with the phaserunner. The chain tensioner rarely has issues. And its very smooth. On the phaserunner it was the PLL bandwidth that seemed to help the most. But then on Flipsky it just feels rough AF and like its a lot more torque with MTPA , very powerful , but rough. I’ve set up the throttle in Vesc before where i had it kind of virtual freewheeling, but it was kind of a hackjob. Id like to write a script that SLOWLY ramps up the power and limits it as you first hit the throttle and engages the drivetrain. i think it should be able to tell when that happens. Otherwise I’m kind of nursing the throttle on purpose so i don’t break anything. Maybe there’s some settings like the PLL bandwidth in the phaserunner that would fix the roughness for me, but i haven’t found that in vesc yet

Just as an update i think the equivalent of the PLL Bandwidth and damping in VESC has something to do with the FOC Observer Gain. So that is what I’m messing around with currently, observer gain. And other FOC parameters. like Kp Ki and the Observer type itself as theres a few options that behave differently. Lots of stuff to play around with

@@EBikeBuilder_ awesome! please keep us updated.. you've been a huge help to many .. nice to see the experiments with it aswell!

Suspension might be beneficial only on offroad at low speeds or high speeds on-road. Also can't use heavily loaded rack on suspension frames.

@@dantheman3815 id like to, But less room for a battery in the frame. And if i had a full suspension bike i would want decent one. I’ve always had janky bikes i just ride the street for the most partz

@@EBikeBuilder_ The battery usually gets attached under downtube on suspension frames using heavy duty velcro straps. Last time went for triangle battery instead since I wasn't sure about the battery stability using velcro straps. Have seen them flopping around in some of the videos. Using some u clamps is another option but then there is a risk of bike starting to look like a science project or contraption which results in unwanted attention. Too much unnecessary hardware on a bike is another factor.

Hey Bengy good to hear from ya buddy! I knew that would draw you out of the woodwork! 😂 I have been considering flashing the FW on my flipsky, because i was having issues with LISP scripting that i think might be related to minor version numbers like 6.02 vs 6.04 etc…. But it seems the scripting methods I am looking at require the latest / bleeding edge VESC. So i would have to compile the latest FW from source, and I’m not sure i want to be doing that Lol, I will have to find some other way in LISP scripting to do what i want.. i was trying to set-current on my hub motor to spin the motor programmatically, but it was crunching and appeared to be trying to go backwards , so IDK… lol. I am messing around with the FOC stuff now. It seems like some observers work better than others. Like when i use the default observer it oscillates at full throttle. But then i try a different observer and it’s a lot smoother. So it’s difficult to tell what to adjust first hahah everything seems to influence everything else. Delicate balancing act. i will continue messing around with it 🎉. And yeah the virtual freewheeling is super important. Not just to keep the motor spinning and engaged but also part of that is the chain tension being maintained. I am having tons of issues with chain tension on the flipsky from crazy RPM changes. That is apparently wasn’t having on the phaserunner. The PR was a million times easier to setup and much smoother. All i had to do in phaserunner was adjust the PLL bandwidth and damping. And that was about it. And i guess the equivalent stuff in VESC is the observer gain. But I haven’t had much luck with tinkering with the observer gain yet., it does seem to work better at lower values than the motor detection comes up with. 🎉🎉🎉🎉

Not needed. They sell a CA with shunt mod or a shunt mod separately for another CA. You can buy a speed sensor from there website and integrate it into another CA. You can buy CA adapters and cables or make your own. They even sell dual throttle, dual battery shunts and run dual controllers. Obviously the shunt CA with wheel speed sensor works with any controller, and if you hook the controller throttle input to the CA and the throttle to the CA you can set maximum power limits or top speed limit or multiple settings with a toggle.

i also think u can open up the CA. and then solder in a speedo directly onto the PCB some how, I saw a manual somewhere. about doing that. But might not be possible on all of them , im not sure

​@@EBikeBuilder_ I am hooking a CA to a Votol 150 controller. Does the VESC have a shunt? On Endless Sphere there is a thread "How to add a 6-pin Cycle Analyst (CA) adapter to a VOTOL EM-150 Controller" with diagram, might be useful.

@@rufusirvin5279ah yeah i see, it seems i could wire up the cycle analyst WP8 plug to the flipsky? I think it must have a shunt inside the flipsky, ooh boy i woke up at 430 am and now I’m started on this again

​@EBikeBuilder_ yes you can, I did the opposite, i removed the external speedo and hooked it up to the yellow hall sensor connection

some of the stuff in vesc... like the PAS .. isn't very good. IMO there's only one way to set up the PAS parameters in VESC to get it working how you would expect. So i dont get why they have the parameters at all. I gave up on that PAS. I will have to figure out my own, I started on it. , But i was having trouble with running the motor with a script. im not sure if i have to flash the VESC firmware on my flipsky and certain functions in the scripting are only supported on higher versions of VESC, or what. GBut when I was calling the 'set current' function in vesc that i thought SHOULD spin the motor, it seemed like it was trying to spin backwards? and really weird stuff, not smooth at all, Even though I was telling it to barely use any current. I was using the script as they described in the documentation, But then it wasn't having the expected results- Lol. My flipskys on VESC 6.02. and i think some features might not be available until VESC 6.04 or VESC 6.05 or the most recent version of VESC, or something, not sure... I was trying to get it to spin my hub motor... was going backwards really jerky and rough... Kind of tough to figure out wtf was going on . I will try it again with the HD. But right now I think yeah figuring out how to spin the motor with the script. or at least throttle the power being applied to the motor via script some how is absolutely critical. So i have to sit here for a whole day and figure that out first, probably, to be able to start working on any of these features I need Lol. Basic motor control scripting fundamentals crash course Required 🤣 I am gonna get this thing working smooth Cuz the MTPA is really nice. And this thing can go faster than the phaserunner it has unlocked FW. But yeah will take some work. I dont have a whole lot of places I could use or test cruise control.. And I would have to get the motor working smoothly first in order to work on cruise control. But I see what you were saying about the default behavior. It would be nice to be able to change that. I thikn from the script there should be some way to stop it or change the behavior somehow. Ill have to look into it, If i recall thats what you wanted was to change the behavior of the cruise control? In relation to the throttle input, and brake cutoffs, Lol its been a while i need to get caught up to speed It took me some fussing around to get the HD working at all !!! Ty for the Comment mate ill sitdown and try make some progress soon 🤣🤣🤣

Get an Ebike that does not resemble a motorcycle or moped, bears the national safety mark, with pedals (no pegs or footrests), bicycle tires and wheels/rims (not moto rims or wheels), needs to look like a bicycle frame- without any obstructing battery or controller compartment (not a Ride1Up Revv1, etc), then I guess you would want to use a motor that is 500W nominal - i would get a Bafang BBS02. There are different versions of the BBS02 - 250W, 500W, 750W, etc. So I mean.. you could get a 500W one and that would be totally legit? And limit it to 32 KM/H. Then have some other mode where u could just go buck wild when you are "off road". It sounds like u could even get a 500W bafang hub motor on a fat bike, they arent bad they can get going about 25mph

If you legitimately want the most legal performance, a geared hub motor with a powerful controller is best. Speed is determined by rpm per volt. Many Canadian bikes are setup to do 32km/500watts, and when going uphill, the back emf can increase the Wattage much higher, like 800-900 watts. Second option is a bafang bbs02 500 watt midmotor, and use a 52volt battery instead of 48 volt. I hardly use setting 9 which is fastest, but I use setting 3. Another option is buying a grin all axle motor, if you run if off a twelve volt battery, at 100 rpm, they will laser etch 250 volts, obviously if you take it home and run 2,000-3,000 watts at 72volts than they don't care. You can install a base runner into a battery and run without display.

@@EBikeBuilder_ No DIY, only bikes with that sticker are the big $$ brand ones . Only thing is make it faster, strip all the markings, lights, serial # ect. and don't stop . Shit load of paths here and I know them all .

@@Robert-s5dhahah Make it faster I like it !! 😂😂😂 We’re not gonna have e bike tyranny. What’s are they gonna do chase us down the bike path to give us a ticket for going 2 MPH and 100W over the limit 😂😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉

front motor is on 52v 8ah samsung 40t3. and the rear is on 72v 20ah same cells.

the JB weld worked fine to hold the magnets in, make sure to wipe off the top of the magnets as the air gap between rotor and stator is small and you dont want JB weld scraping. In my case I think i screwed up my entire rotor with the gear puller on accident is why I had to get rid of that rotor. But the JB weld was working. I dont think those magnets have ANY adhesive on them by default BTW, i think they just stick to the metal of that rotor shell. But if you use too much power on the motor or if they get hot , it seems like they can slip around and come loose

@@EBikeBuilder_ I wish I had taken a picture when I pulled my motor apart, there looked to be some kind of volcanized rubber/adhesive being pushed out of the space between the magnets. I'll have to keep an eye out while removing the rotor. This'll be fun project

@@counter929 yeah I have an 8 inch gear puller from Menards and it was a little big and the jaws were a bit thick … be careful when using the gear puller make sure it’s jaws are only touching the rotor, and not anything else, and make sure its aligned straight, I’m not sure how i did it. But i totally jacked a rotor and bent it with the gear puller!! I had to use a grinder to grind down the legs of the 8” gear puller so they cleared the rest of the motor better. And now it works like a dream and no worries of damaging another rotor

@@EBikeBuilder_ thank you for the info gonna be looking at my motor today after work

i'll have to check that out, I've been to many channels like that... and they either get disappeared, or they grow a large subscriber base- and start spreading the gospel about how the sky is green haha. I've gone 50mph on the 75v bbshd with the phaserunner. And 50mph down a hill with the bbs02 before I melted the motor core Lol. When I had 3 motors on the fat bike it could do 45 to 50 too. But I'm using walmart bikes, and I have flat out in my tires. So I'm usually cruisng at or around the 30mph ebike speeds Lol. Only thing about going fast is it uses a lot of battery. and the motor can heat up. If you wanna go fast need more expensive components like brakes suspension, tires to be safe etc. Probably need a big direct drive hub motor. And yeah I dont know if i would want to be going much faster on walmart bike rims with amazon spokes and stuff hahah. Where I live 30 - 50mph is pretty useful. But when you get on the county roads and interstate you need to be going like 75MPH +

I’ve always had phase f on, I’m not sure, but big daddy elon says; Enabling the phase filter in VESC (Vedder Electronic Speed Controller) can introduce a noticeable delay in the response of the motor, which might make it seem like there is a dead spot in your throttle on the high end. Here’s why: 1. **Phase Filter Functionality**: The phase filter smooths out the current to reduce noise and improve efficiency, but it also slows down the responsiveness of the motor to changes in throttle input. This smoothing effect can result in a delay, particularly noticeable at higher throttle levels where the motor requires more current adjustments. 2. **Throttle Response Lag**: At higher throttle levels, the motor demands rapid and precise current changes to maintain performance. The phase filter might not keep up with these rapid changes, causing a lag in throttle response. This lag can be perceived as a dead spot because the motor does not accelerate as quickly as expected when you increase the throttle. 3. **Filtering and Power Delivery**: Filtering can also affect the power delivery curve, making it less linear. As a result, the throttle response may feel less predictable, especially at higher speeds where the phase filter has a more pronounced effect on the motor’s performance. 4. **Motor Feedback**: The phase filter can alter the feedback loop of the motor controller. If the controller is not tuned to account for the added filtering, the system might struggle to maintain a smooth and consistent power delivery, further contributing to the sensation of a dead spot at higher throttle levels. To address this issue, you might need to adjust the phase filter settings or experiment with different VESC configurations to balance the filtering effect with the desired throttle response.

@@EBikeBuilder_ Thank You for the timely reply, I shall then continue on Unfiltered and Unfettered .