Norcold 1200 RV Refrigerator "NOCO" Error Diagnosis
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
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Certified Mobile RV Technician, Darren Koepp, diagnoses a Norcold 1200 RV Refrigerator giving a "NOCO" (Not Cooling) error message. Take a look at the backside components of the RV fridge to discover burnt fuses, heat-fatigued control boards, and fried heating elements.
If you are in need of RV Repairs in the Olympic Peninsula area of Washington state, submit a service request on our website at myrvworks.com today!
We have a norcold smaller unit in our rig that we got about 2 months ago...LP tank empty... So I tried it on auto... No function at first ... I tooke the back panel off outside unplugged and then plugged it into an extension cord... About 2 or 3 hours later it was very warm inside the refrigerator with a grow light I could have really grown some nice plants...haha ... Well I unplugged it and plugged it in correctly and it's been working ever since... Is this something you would do or am I just lucky? ... Happy campers say my RV works... Love your videos... The humor is a great spice along the way...
So if I'm following you here, you have no LP to test. When you plug it into Shore power it did not work and then you unplug it and plug it back in and it did work. Am I follow you correctly? Bottom line to me, if it's working now problem solved, that'll be $1,000 please. LOL. It does take some time for these things to cool down though. So, how much time did you give it before you checked it?
@@MyRVWorks ... Following perfectly and logically... Yes it did take some time literally 48 hours... Pretty tough job with no moving parts IE fans... Was not freezing at first but after the next 12 hours it really started ... There's a ton of people who don't understand what it means to remove the Heat and how long it takes !!! Currently according to my Optical pyrometer its 11 in the freezer and 29 in the refrigerator ... Making ice in trays and keeping ice...
Don't know if my method was unorthodox however proper function was the goal. Additional note... The thermometer hanging in the freezer was showing - 20 but it just needed to be recalibrated as I was trusting the accuracy of the before mentioned instrument.
Later I well check the upper compartment from the roof like you did on another video and check the tolerances and clearances and make adjustments it's necessary update on that later... 96 Damon intruder 460 Ford f53 was owned by a retired Air Force couple... Well taken care of ...replaced the carpet front and back and hardwood floor in the kitchen and bathroom ... Everything works they apparently fixed it all as they went along.
Thank you we appreciate your intelligence, technique, and humor. Accentuate the positive and eliminate the negative...
@@willowquinn the best practice for testing the fresh food compartment temperature is to check it in a cup of water. That is a more closer representation of food temperature. I've also done service calls on these refrigerators because the folks went to the store and bought a bunch of room-temperature fruits and things and put them in the refrigerator and messed up the cooling for about a day. In the end it's all about convective air currents in that food compartment box making it up to the top fins. And yes it does take hours for all that heat to be absorbed. It's a very passive process. Residential refrigerators have a compressor so it's much more active process and works much quicker.
I Love watching your videos, Very Informative. Thanking you for taking the time to do these presentations👍.
Hey thanks i been fighting with mine for a month now and the magnet trick works lol
Thanks! Great video!
The refrigerator side relies on heat exchange, as said by Darren--MyRVWorks, and others. Question: what do you all think of the drip tray design and location as it blocks vertical air flow through the fins of the exchanger. And your thoughts on air circulating fans that can be mounted to the fins inside the food compartment, it set inside on a shelf... Your thoughts???
The PCB is fine. A little discoloration on a PCB isn't detrimental. If it's black and comoing apart or worse, if you can see fabric instead of a smooth surface then it's bad.
Notice the blue resistor is fine as well.
Thanks for your comment, one thing I did notice was when I replace the control board the problem was repaired! I think that's all the customer's concern was also LOL.
What about the consideration that it needs a new cooling unit? Considering NO CO does mean no cooling, and in my case the heating element is still working because it gets hot but the fridge doesn’t get cold at all. After resetting via jumper/ground I am under the impression i’ll need to replace cooling unit next. Thoughts?
Thank you for the video
Great vids....you r the MAN.
Darren where did you get that Norcold book at?
Great explanation. Thanks! 😀
Regards repair, I would take a look at the back of the board to see the condition of the resistor solder points. No.way to test a 10 cent resistor without removing it from the board,as far as I know... If it's burnt, the resistor has been overworked most likely. Heat is the enemy of circuits. Be careful with fridges 🔥. If the unit was fun out of leve!, That could have caused some of these problems. Don't level the RV, level the fridge!!! Your thoughts?
I would replace the control board and the heating element. Replacing that Fridge is about 2100.00+ and the control board and heating elements will run about $300.00 in parts. the thermistor is only about 30.00 and walla a rebuilt Fridge.
I like to save my customers money wherever I can an sometimes that means spending a bit more to replace components that are going to fail in the near future. I'd replace the board and both heating elements and possibly the thermistor.
Hello, thank you for the helpful video! I was wondering if you could help me with a problem that we have: our norcold freezer works good, however, the actual refrigerator part doesn't cool down. We replaced the thermistor, but we are a little confused on what to do next. We barely got it and this is how it came, the refrigerator does not get cool at all
If I left 50 beers in there that were warm and then turned on fridge to get cold again and it stayed on for 12 hours before the “no co” signal came on would that trigger the noco signal? If so, how do I just reset it?
Good videos big help
is there some figures so one can test a thermistor to see if its working or not
I would replace both Elements for that Model and also replace the Control borde with a new fuse and clean the Units exhaust system.
How much does a replacement control board cost??
They vary in cost. Watch this video I made to walk through how to determine what control board you need and how to replace them. ua-cam.com/video/0rMJ3GrOb8Q/v-deo.html
You may be able to find the one you need on Amazon or from Brian here: thenorcoldguy.com/
🌷
Where do you find the error codes to look up??
You can look at the service manual on our website: myrvworks.com/manuals/
Great video, but I am scratching my head on my problem. I am not getting any code, but I was getting a blinking temperature (when I had it on temperature) or a blinking number when I had it set at 9. So I know that means that the unit is going into a bypass mode (always on mode), can't remember the name. Norcold told me to put the unit all the way up to 9 and disconnect the termister to check its OHM reading. I did that, but the unit still did not cool. Both AC and LP are working as the unit is hot to the touch on all the surrounding coils and boiler. As for the termister, after testing it in 32 - 35 degree water, I got a resistance of 27 which wasn't too bad. So what is next, the CONTROL BOARD?
Watch this video. It may help. ua-cam.com/video/IT_5HGe4q-k/v-deo.html
The thermistor is a resistor
Great start to a rap hehe