I have the same control board. I can't get my fridge to work with 120v, 12v, or gas! I get 120v going to the 120v burner, but if I plug the burner into the control board, the 120v fuse blows immediately. I get about 36 ohms when testing the resistance of the 120v burner. Is that within spec?
Thank you for watching/subscribing. There's not much to the 120v side of this fridge. The Control board is the most common failure. "Burner" Heating element I believe should be 30-40ohm( I could be wrong) but at least that tells you it is not completely shorted. If the fuse is only blowing when you connect the heating element to the board it does seem as if the element maybe shorting out.
@JSFautoPlus I tried plugging the heating element directly into my home and it took 2 or 3 amps but then after a bit it popped my homes circuit breaker so I do think the element is bad. However, that doesn't explain why I can't cool my fridge with the propane. Any ideas?
Hi, that does make sense, I would replace the heating element. As far as propane, it's functions is similar to the electric. Instead of the electric heating element, propane gas is ignited and used to heat the coil. Almost like any typical gas water heater in a home. You can manually select the fridge to run on gas or electric but I believe it always defaults to electric when in automatic mode if available. Any how, you would want to diagnose the propane ignite cycle in a similar manor that you did with the electric cycle. Make sure the propane is on and manually switch the fridge to run on gas. With the cover off see what it does. Does the gas come on, does it ignite(valve opens, ignitor ticking), is there a flame. Maybe It it does come on and then, goes out then it may be the thermocouple(flame sensor) is shutting it off and reverting to electric. I believe it should try to ignite 2-3 times before it tries to switch to electric and if that does not work the ""check, Fault" light is illuminated. You would just have to see what it does and what part of the cycle is failing.... thanks
Make sure camper/fridge is on a leveled surface & it may take few hours for the fridge to actually start cooling. This is an absorption style refrigerator, meaning there is no compressor. Basically the refrigerator takes two liquids, ammonia and water,(The ammonia is the refrigerant, and the water simply transports it) and separates them using the distillation process. The boiler assembly heats the two liquids in the refrigerator holding tank, but they all do require being somewhat leveled. If you have flame(heat) & it it still does not function it maybe possible the solution has leaked out. If you had a leak, you would know it, as it does have a strong odor. Is this something that just quit working all of sudden or something you acquired non functional?...
Hi, thank you for watching/subscribing. It's a pretty simple system. Auto meaning it will not switch between electric and gas? Does it keep switching to gas? Have you checked the electric heating element?
Replacement Control Board for RV Dometic Refrigerator
CLICK HERE: 👉 amzn.to/3vwRFMY
Fluke Digital Multimeter Circuit Tester
CLICK HERE: 👉 amzn.to/4asL3hG
DOMETIC Refrigerator Wire Shelf Plug & Clips
CLICK HERE: 👉 amzn.to/47KN34b
DOMETIC Shelf Clips Only (10 Pack)
CLICK HERE: 👉 amzn.to/3ONbk0P
Dometic Fridge Replacement Door Handle for
CLICK HERE: 👉 amzn.to/3ONbIwj
DOMETIC Refrigerator Wire Shelf
CLICK HERE: 👉 amzn.to/3Pb6jRj
Refrigerator Side Wall Vent RV 20" Compatible with Dometic WHITE (This is Exterior of Camper)
CLICK HERE: 👉 amzn.to/3YQjryf
Refrigerator Side Wall Vent RV 20" Compatible with Dometic BLACK (This is Exterior of Camper)
CLICK HERE: 👉 amzn.to/3qBAXKa
Refrigerator Airing Device Compatible with Dometic [2 Pack]
CLICK HERE: 👉 amzn.to/3OL2LUd
Thanks for video. Where do you put the grounding screw on the new board?
Question my fridge won't get cold on electric or propane would u replace the thermistor first over the board??
I would say, don't just go replacing parts before you diagnose what the issue is.
I have the same control board. I can't get my fridge to work with 120v, 12v, or gas! I get 120v going to the 120v burner, but if I plug the burner into the control board, the 120v fuse blows immediately. I get about 36 ohms when testing the resistance of the 120v burner. Is that within spec?
Thank you for watching/subscribing. There's not much to the 120v side of this fridge. The Control board is the most common failure. "Burner" Heating element I believe should be 30-40ohm( I could be wrong) but at least that tells you it is not completely shorted. If the fuse is only blowing when you connect the heating element to the board it does seem as if the element maybe shorting out.
@JSFautoPlus I tried plugging the heating element directly into my home and it took 2 or 3 amps but then after a bit it popped my homes circuit breaker so I do think the element is bad. However, that doesn't explain why I can't cool my fridge with the propane. Any ideas?
Hi, that does make sense, I would replace the heating element. As far as propane, it's functions is similar to the electric. Instead of the electric heating element, propane gas is ignited and used to heat the coil. Almost like any typical gas water heater in a home. You can manually select the fridge to run on gas or electric but I believe it always defaults to electric when in automatic mode if available. Any how, you would want to diagnose the propane ignite cycle in a similar manor that you did with the electric cycle. Make sure the propane is on and manually switch the fridge to run on gas. With the cover off see what it does. Does the gas come on, does it ignite(valve opens, ignitor ticking), is there a flame. Maybe It it does come on and then, goes out then it may be the thermocouple(flame sensor) is shutting it off and reverting to electric. I believe it should try to ignite 2-3 times before it tries to switch to electric and if that does not work the ""check, Fault" light is illuminated. You would just have to see what it does and what part of the cycle is failing.... thanks
@JSFautoPlus The flame comes on and continues burning but the fridge doesn't get any colder.
Make sure camper/fridge is on a leveled surface & it may take few hours for the fridge to actually start cooling. This is an absorption style refrigerator, meaning there is no compressor. Basically the refrigerator takes two liquids, ammonia and water,(The ammonia is the refrigerant, and the water simply transports it) and separates them using the distillation process. The boiler assembly heats the two liquids in the refrigerator holding tank, but they all do require being somewhat leveled. If you have flame(heat) & it it still does not function it maybe possible the solution has leaked out. If you had a leak, you would know it, as it does have a strong odor. Is this something that just quit working all of sudden or something you acquired non functional?...
I put an new circuit board in and the refrigerator still will not go to auto. it doing the same thing it did before. not auto lights. pleased help
Hi, thank you for watching/subscribing.
It's a pretty simple system. Auto meaning it will not switch between electric and gas? Does it keep switching to gas? Have you checked the electric heating element?