I do 5000 mile oil now set to 5000/10,000 odometer intervals. Glad my 86 does not have low tire sensor system. I check air monthly as the temps change. Original engine, oil pan, and drain plug for 37 years daily driving and 482,000 miles.
all these filter manufacturers have instructions to tighten them 2/3 to 3/4 of a turn after it makes contact, they really want to make sure it does not leak or come loose. it is hard even getting to 2/3 of a turn snug by hand is good. i find silicone grease on gasket keeps them from sticking really well.
I don’t bother with a sticker on my vehicle. I use trip A to track the miles. On my wife’s vehicle, I use the sticker. She also has the service soon light as a reminder. Because I travel a lot I can’t always change her oil. When I do it after the dealership had done it, I’ll often need a breaker bar to loosen the drain plug and filter. I’ll also look over the items they say are in need of repair. I get the impression they are trying to take advantage. From some estimates she’s come back with, I’d go so far as to call it fraud.
Dealer trying to take advantage???? Nooooo. You can't really believe that?????? Dealers are totally honest in the sales dept and the service dept. They know your car better than anyone else, and if the service dept wants $4,000 to do a vital repair, the same repair an independent shop wants $200 for, be sure to have the dealer do it bcause those independent shops are just cutting corners and don't know your car like the dealers do. :People call them stealerships for a reason.
I just wanted to add, I try to remember at what miles to do it, but I don't rack up miles like I use to, so I check it often and when it starts looking dirty, I change it.
The issue with the ABS, Brake, etc. lights is most likely micro-fracturing of the ABS module solder joints on the circuit board components with pins. I had the same issue with my Son's Buick LeSabre and once I opened up the unit, the fatigued solder joints were obvious. I resoldered the suspect joints and installed the module and it has been fine.
Depending on the board, reflowing in a disposable toaster oven is a good thing to do prior to the manual resoldering of particular joints.. cuz if a few are going bad, the rest are probably next
I know my current car needs a 14 mm wrench. I don't have a torque wrench. I as actually have 2 filter wrenches and a filter socket. The newer cars won't come off without a filter wrench. I don't want to junk the car. Last if the screw on filter.
Ford boss me channel did on a Dodge also a Marvel mystery oil treatment on a 5.2l and did a great job to clean the engine. Also BG have a kit to clean the excessive sludge with pretty good results. Put maintenance first and as you said !!! Thanks for the content.
Someone probably already posted this but, the valve up around the fill holes is the drain back valve and the valve in the bottom of the filter is the bypass valve.
Filter looks a little loose but if it works for you and never leaks then its all good! I always do 3/4 turn after gasket touches. My 85 d150 oil filter came off with 2 fingers last time i changed my oil. That kinda surprised me as usually i use my band wrench (its never too tight to take off by hand but its just easier in the location its at) Drain plug is about spot on to how i do chrysler plugs. Those you dont want too tight.. just enough where you feel the gasket squish. The new DT ram 1500s come off with a little more than the weight of the wrench on the first oil change. Oil fiters are put on TIGHT from the factory though. Just about throw my arm out getting those factory installed filters off when i used to do quick lube.
Kenny’s oil filter torque was fine in this video. Once the motor heats up the oil filter gasket is going to swell making it even tighter than what he left it. The seal swell’s more than it shrinks when going through these cycles so it’s always going to be tighter than what you left it.
True, you tighten them up hand tight and they tighten up them selves a bit more from gasket swell or something. Kenny's looked a little too easy for me. I wouldn't want it loosening just from vibration.
That is a good engine. I keep my van tires at 40 psi also. I still have original struts in front at 132k miles. Not leaking. Replaced rear shocks. Have hauled plenty of building materials too with stow'n go.
Kenny you should consider wearing latex gloves when changing oil. The old dirty contaminated oil is actually carcinogenic. Just looking out for you brother. Good video!
I look like a hockey player anytime I'm working on my vehicles.(backbrace/knee pads/saftey boots/googles & mechanic gloves.But hey don't get injuries so I don't care what I look like.
I've never owned a vehicle that didn't have the original drain plug. I don't see the emphasis. Mine all use crush washers and I tighten them enough to seal. I give the filter 3/4 turn as the manufacturer specifies. Never had one stuck nor has one leaked in 52 years of service and driving. Never pre-filled a filter except for on a hydrostatic drive that recommends it. Of course don't over-tighten or under-tighten anything.
I base all my maintenance in increments of 5 so I don’t need no sticker.all service is done within 500 miles of that 5k Ie: last oil change was at 129600 because I knew I wouldn’t have time for it when it was due. Once in awhile it’s within the 500 over. Same with trans,diff.
Here's my oil story: In 1978 my Dad had a house built and bought a brand new Olds Cutlass 350 4bbl w/ 350 turbo hydramatic. He called me over to change the oil in his new car at his new house. My baby sister carved her initials in the cement so I know what year it was. We put Mobil 1, probably 10W-40 in it. On the oil can it said go 25,000 miles between changes. So he did. It didn't burn enough oil to see it on the stick. But Dad was pretty nervous when he finally hit 25,000 miles. So since he was soooo nervous about going 25,000 miles we reasoned that we'd go 10,000 and change the filter every time instead of 5,000 and filter every other time like we'd done with regular motor oil. I have lived by that reasoning. I have 325,000 miles on my 1998 GMC Yukon 5.7 Vortec original engine and it only uses enough oil to be down from the full mark on the stick by about 1/16". And that's only since the engine oil cooler lines have started leaking. That's my story and I'm dip-sticking to it. ben/ michigan. PS The Yukon is almost rusted in half, but the Vortec is like new.
Got an Odyssey with one power door that doesn't work after a cable snapped . Removed the cables and use it manually for that side. Don't use it enough to care.
I had a 1986 Oldsmobile Achieva that we encountered the same ABS issue. I found an ABS 'brain' from a 1987 Achieva that was totaled in the rear. The front clip was all good so I purchased the ABS brain and installed it on the 1986. The took it to a dealer and they set it up with their computer. All issues disappeared. Worked like it was suppose to.
Looked like from where the filter made contact you went 1/2 turn. As I recall some filters said do 3/4 turn. As long as it doesn't come loose you are fine. I've had a filter come loose before on mine. I don't know what they did at the oil change places. They must have tightened it some as it did not leak for hundreds of miles but then began to leak significantly.
I can tell you what they did at the oil change place....they didnt tighten it enough,just like he did here in this video. Then with the constant vibration, it loosened.
I don’t use oil change stickers either. I keep a log book in all of my vehicles and record everything I do to the vehicle. I change my oil at 5,000 mile increments so all I have to do is look at the odometer and see when the next multiple of 5,000 comes up and I know it is time for an oil change. No need to remember the last time, just don’t go too far past the 5,000 multiple. I do 10,000 tire rotations for the same reason. Every other oil change and easy to remember.
Oil gets past the rings into the combustion chamber,as the ring goes down. If you run 5w30, it will be more. The newer oil life indicators may be reset with a button on the dash. I know that is no information, but I was underneath them.
Hey Kenny, a little tidbit just for the sake of it. When working for Chrysler dealers from 1979-1994, we were always told that the main difference between Dodge cars and trucks was that trucks were built with chromed piston rings, always and has an extra quart capacity oil quantity. Those chromed rings really took a long time to fully seat bur with regular maintenance, they would last a lifetime.
My old 92 s10 4.3 i ran full synthetic oil chang every 15000 i drove over 200 miles a day it lasted 320000 miles b4 it broke i open it up it was very clean inside had a wrist pin bad
That was awesome. Stole the wife's car , then revs 🤣that filter looked better and your wife's wasn't crushed inside. Cool video with the comparing the two. Thanks Kenny and see ya next time🙋♂️
I'll have to agree with you fingertight is different than hand. Most filters say three quarter to a full turn and that looked like half a turn. I usually do 13/16 just to be sure. 😁 Same thing with tightening the drain plug. I don't recall that but I get it tighter than that. I'm thinking of heating, cooling cycles and how it affects the gaskets as they relax into shape. I love Kenny's content here and the extra details thrown in above and beyond the main topic. Information about the brake light, information about the strut and not removing that crossmember bolt. That's the kind of stuff you look for when doing your oil change so I think it's great bringing that up.
A pet peeve of mine also is people who over-tighten fasteners, particularly lug nuts. Having said that, you are under-tightening your oil filters. They should not come off by hand. I can’t tell on your drain plug, but that looked on the light side as well. Most of the time you can get away with that, but occasionally you can get leaks through the oil filter gasket if it isn’t compressed sufficiently. The 3/4 turn that is the low end of what most filter makers recommend works great. It will take a filter wrench to remove, but they make filter wrenches for a reason. And 3/4 turn guarantees you will have enough gasket compression to never have a leak. Same with the drain plug. Torque to the low end of the torque spec and you have enough, but not too much.
Some times you can get rid of abs faults like that by changing brake fluid and bleeding the ABS pump . Other times new track rod ends and a slight alignment.
We have a 2004 grand caravan with the 3.3 it has been beyond excellent as a family van, bought it new. Now has 291K does not use oil as long as I keep it changed at @4K. Transmission slips at cold start when it's in the 30s but it's our beater now. We'll keep it until it doesn't move then off to the yard. Maybe I can get another 10 years out of it.
have been dealing with that c2200 on my 2014 dodge journey for about 1.5 yrs now, that abs unit is on backorder everywhere, it works every so often and a lot more often during the summer ,bad thing is you lose your cruise control as well
Hi Kenny I used to work at a coal mine and the heavy duty mechanics there always cut open the filters but what they did was they would take a section of the filter paper and leave it folded and wrap a piece of paper towel around it and squeeze it in a vice that got rid of the excess oil and made it easier to look for contamination they also took a oil sample every oil change that they sent to a lab the reports had a lot of information
@@TheFrenchPug This is standard practice to check oil filters and oil for wear issues, with heavy vehicles that do a lot of mileage on their oil; they also do multiple oil filter changes in between oil changes.
I had a mechanic at a tire shop have to chisel the old filter loose. His filter wrench looked like a pair of bbq tongs. The tire shop went out of business.
Do all oil filters have the same threading? What changes between different oil filters? How can I tell what oil filters I can use? We have a 2002 Nissan Altima with a 4 cylinder engine.
Regarding sticky dash, I’m sure you and many viewers know that reason your windows get sticky is because the plastic-petroleum dash is out gasping chemicals. I keep two hand towels on my dash to slow this down. Parking in a garage will help too.
Hey Kenny Take the gasket off the oil filter prior to cutting it open, makes it easier. I had a caravan with the 3.3. Put 200k on it changed the oil every 3k. No issues ever. Thales care.
Kenny hi the other day at the dealership there was a new young lube tech having a difficult time removing a cartridge filter so I went over to help him remove it he did not have a very long ratchet or a breaker bar or even a pipe so I used my breaker bar with a piece of pipe to remove it and even with that I still had a little trouble people are never going to learn what snug is when the filter stops turning you stop turning after I told him that he should have a breaker bar in his tool cart as should any lube and tire tech there only 20 bucks at hft and there is a lifetime so if it breaks you just return it for a new one no recipe needed
Question for you: Kia and Hyundai autos are Korean manufactured using Korean plastic formulations. Navien tankless water heaters are manufactured using South Korean plastics. The plastic on the Naviens break down under high temperatures. They emit an oily film during the deterioration process. Perhaps excessive temperatures (sun interior heat) cause the plastic dashboards in the Kia and Hyundai vehicles to breakdown.
The Kia dashboard to clean it you need cheap alcohol based hand sanitiser, and a lot of shop rags, to wipe off that film of degraded urethane on the plastic parts. works for me, and gets most of it off after a few goes, making the cloths become very goopy when applied, and the second time it will be cleaner, and then clean. Gel based ones work best, they hold on to the surface better. you will use a lot, i used around 50ml to clean a small piece, and am slowly working my way through to the rest. Then hit with dashboard protector to keep it semi clean and coming back.
I use Archoil 9100 to everything, after it proved to me to clean up the hydraulic side of my injectors on my old 7.3 Powerstroke. Diffs, t-cases, engine oil, and power steering.
I have always wet my finger and run it around the new ring/seal with oil when reinstalling a new oil filter, is that the wrong thing to do? I only hand tighten the filter too. The one time I paid for an oil change the shop guy used an oil filter wrench to "snug" the filter on..I have to drive a screwdriver through the filter to twist it off on the next oil change. I complained..they told me it was shop policy. I told them it was my shops policy never to do business with them again..bought a 4 post lift 3 weeks later and been doing all repair myself since.
Appreciate the insight! I gotta get into now because the light is still on & it has been a week. Usually, it would go off the next day & stay off for an extended period of time. Keep wrenching
I had a 2006 Town and Country i purchasesd new. Got 260K on original engine and transmission before i sold it. Only had the electric doors give me problems with age. It was a very comfortable vehicle.
I have had a check engine light on for 3 or 4 years now and its the 02 sensor for cat its detecting low efficiency i am not to worried because its running very well still
When you picked it up an was driving to your shop i knew that ot was probably a chrysler town in country touring if im not mistaken ! The window switch on driver side of mine went bad changed it an fixed the door lock along with the window not going up ! We bought it used had 120000 miles on it at 140000 miles had to replace transmission a yr or two later i had to replace the PCM not a fan of these vans ! But its still getting us around ! Lol
Fixed an SRS light on my Jeep that way so I could ship it… shipping company policy is they won’t ship it with any lights on the dash, but the light won’t go out until the car gets a new module that Jeep is out of stock on… problem solved 😂
My check engine light went out after 10 years + (vacuum leak, I knew what it was, no worries) 'cause the bulb finally died. So what does the oil change crew do? Put in a new bulb....
Had a little laugh to my self. Paraphrasing “ That light on the dash just means traction control isn’t working. My wife don’t need that where she’s going” . I do enjoy your videos, that’s just an observation 🤠
I also drive it like i stole it 🤣my mechanic hates it. I do use an oil treatment liquid moly ceratec and iv been happy with it, no gummy grose residue and it get rid of the volvo 5 cylinder tick.
Only if it had a gasket or o-ring to begin with. My Ford did not and I've never had an issue with it leaking. Some manufacturers use a gasket or o-ring on their drain plugs. If they have one, it's a good idea to replace it every time you replace the oil.
Most modern drain plugs have an o-ring seal that is built into the drain plug, no need for copper gaskets. Those copper gaskets can be reused if you anneal them on a stove. I've done this for years on Triumph motorcycles,t hey have a solid copper head gasket.
A number of cheap plastics break down like that. I’ve had a few tools cushioned handles the become sticky after 5-8 years of age. Very annoying, but with hand tools I just shake some talcum powder on them and keep using them. Powder probably would not look as nice on a car dash.
My Saturn has a button in the fuse box under the hood that you turn the key to run and press and hold for 5 Mississippi’s. Wife’s G6 you reset oil counter with the radio display by using menu to get to reset oil life then enter and hold until it says acknowledged. F150 doesn’t have one as far as I can tell. If it does it must be set to 500,000 miles.
Why not tighten the drain plug to spec with a torque wrench and the filter to manufacturers instructions on the side of the filter? I know after years of daily experience you develop a feel that can be very accurate but it’s a quick and simple procedure to do it with exact precision. Also your feel for the filter tightening can be inaccurate depending on oil on or not on the gasket. Why do mechanics believe they can be as precise by feel as they would be with torque wrenches?
I might change a filter every 3, 4 oil changes.. its a closed loop system and only gets contaminated if you introduce contaminants.. early engines just relied on oil changes to remove the contaminants from the system.. bypass valves in filters will allow the chunky bits pass when oil is cold and needs to flow.. neglect and abuse kills engines just like humans..
I think Napa oil is made by Valvoline. Oil is cheap when compared to engine replacement. Please use proper grade and brand name of oil. Do not forget to grease fitting if your car has them and use a good grade and brand of grease. Rotate your tires and if possible put spare in rotation if not check air in it wd forty the spare tire lift ig spare is outside. If city driver change at three thousand because stop and go or if paper or mail carrier orr school van use. I friend baught a repo mans truck it had six thousand mile oil service the engine was failing due to lots idling crazy driving of repo trade I have same model I hotshot otr fright 15 percent idel time his track has 80 percent ifeling 10 percent in top gear mine the idele is 20 percent 89 percent in top gear
So - more clean the engine discussion. You don't need additives to clean the engine if it has visible deposits inside. Here's some truth for ya. All engine oils will leave deposits in the engine if you leave them in the engine after they begin breaking down. That what causes the deposits - old oil run too long in the engine. To CLEAN the engine - get two cheapo filters and use HD30 engine oil. The HD in HD30 is High Detergent. Drain the oil as usual and put a cheapo filter on. Start and run the engine until you see the oil getting dark on the stick. Maybe between 30 minutes to an hour. Don't drive it - but you may rev up the engine to 1500 RPM'S for a few seconds during the run process. Change the engine oil - and install the second cheapo filter. Fill again with HD30 engine oil. Go driving - one to two hours. When you get back - drain and refill with the oil of your choice and a GOOD engine oil filter. Wix XP filter line is preferable. And I personally prefer Valvoline 100% synthetic engine oil. Now - drive like normal but check the oil every day. We it gets noticeably dark change it again. Begin changing the oil when it changes color - rarely should you go strictly by mileage. My wife drives one hour each way to work each day - we change it every 5K on her car. Her car is new and gets free oil changes at the dealer - and they use synthetic engine oil. My truck oil is changed when the oil begins getting discolored. Mileage varies but it is typically between 2000 to maybe 3000 miles. I drive differently than she does. My 2002 Suburban has 190K miles on it. It gets Valvoline Full Syn 10w-30 engine oil - no additives - and a longer WIX XP oil filter than stock. No cheap oil filters under regular service. The inside of the engines look clean with no deposits. I also removed the oil filter bypass mechanism and plugged the hole so ALL of the engine oil goes thru the engine oil filter. 100% filtration. I still cut my filters open to see what's going on in there and every other oil change I send a vial of oil to have it analyzed. But never ever any cleaners, extra detergents or additives. Just engine oil and regular oil changes BEFORE the engine oil breaks down and begins causing problems. Here's some more if you're still here : Look at the owners manual. Extreme use of engine is defined as lots of stop and go driving - lots of never getting the engine up to temp fully - lots of in town city driving. That's as bad or worse for your engine as hot rodding around all the time - and put extended oil change intervals in the mix and it's no wonder engines are trashed way too soon. FYI - my Suburban drives like new, doesn't smoke, and still has between 40-60 pounds of oil pressure.
also a Valvoline fan Used to use Semi Synthetic until Valvoline came out with full Synthetic 88Merc Grand Marquis Ls 302 V8 188k never added oil between changes changed valve cover gaskets Inside of valve cover was like new Never more than 4K on engine oil Been using Valvoline for 40yrs
My general rule of thumb with spin - on filters is to tighten them about as tight as you can with one hand. Then if you were to take it off next week you would find you almost need a wrench. I would rather have them pretty tight, but good grief don't get stupid. Back in my youth I helped a friend get a spin on filter off that someone tightened until the metal edge of the filter contacted the engine block. Put it this way, the final remains of the filter were finally turned with a chisel
Hi Kenny, I don’t like those sticky additives either. Used them on old junker vehicles in the sixties and early seventies though. Then I got to know some of the top techs at my Toyota dealer in Southern California in 2002. We had a discussion regarding Prolong. I’ve used it ever since my first oil change in my 03’ Tacoma 3.4. It’s really great stuff and does exactly as advertised. Don’t want to make this long so , I ran it in an old Taurus wagon and blew a radiator hose. Drove it another 115 miles no coolant and didn’t over heat. However, after fixing the hose ran it and had a slight wrist pin noise. Car still smooth. Lots of stories about this treatment if you look. I still use it and it’s they only additive I ever use.
@@jeffro221 No, wouldn’t lie about it. There are also videos about running a prolonged engine without an oil pan. Al Unser did one. Search UA-cam for those videos. I know it’s hard to believe. But it actually happened to me . San Diego to Orange Co. speeds up to 75 mph. Check it out. During an exhibition Prolng drove a car with no radiator and no oil pan from Santa Barbara to San Diego. Engine quit there. Just over 200miles.
In my family we have owned 16 300,000 mile GMs and only one had to have a oil drain pan bolt , that's one of the used trucks i bought.. My 284,000 mile Grand Prix had the original oil pan bashed in and had the original oil pan and drain bolt and didn't leak a drop... properly Changing oil is common basic sense..
I'm a subscriber. I hit the like button on every video I watch. I really enjoy your content. Can you share your opinion on using a catch can for the PCV system. I just put a new intake on my car the intake cost like $700.00 and the thought of oil coating the inside of my brand new intake is driving me crazy. Just tell me what you think real quick if you don't mind I I really appreciate it. I trust your advice
I'm not Kenny, but I've just been through this. I have an old 1988 S10 with 286,000 miles. I've been wrenchin' for 50 years, even built 2 Chevy 350s and custom ported a new pair of heads. I've done it all..... so I thought. I've been fighting internal engine moisture issues for the last year + ...bear with me. We've had a prolonged, much cooler and wetter winter. The catch can I made from a thermos had the equivalent of baby snot and motor oil in it. .....yellowish goo, plus oil. My rocker arm cover always had some oil film on it at the base of the oil fill tube. I just cleaned it every couple of months so the top of the engine looked better. I finally decided to get a new gasket. Turned out to be an O-ring. Once I installed the oil fill tube O-ring, EVERYTHING changed. I mean, immediately. The leaking/O-ring was most of my problems. To be fair, a month earlier I had installed a new thermostat because my engine was not getting all the way up to temperature........ Running to cool, plus the PCV system not sealing properly and evacuating the crankcase moisture. ...the cause of the snot in my home made catch can. The non sealing O-ring was allowing moisture laden air into the system right next to the PCV valve, and not evacuating it from the other side of the engine and crankcase...... Moisture was just building up. After my experiences with this moisture and inside a catch can I would recommend it. Install it on the PCV side of the engine. They make some pretty cheap catch cans. Buy one of those, install it, and see what collects inside of over time. ...a week, then a month, then two months. If you can see oil building up inside the can, then that means it's contained and isnt being sucked into the engine to foul your spark plugs and valves. The catch cans can be quite cheap and if you can do it yourself, I say go for it Some new cars even come with catch cans installed from the factory. All they're going to do is catch oil vapors and moisture to prevent them from being burnt, and contaminating the spark plugs and valves.
I've never, ever ever stripped out an oil plug. Don't understand this over tightening of things some people have. My oil filters do seem to come off harder than yours do however. 🤷
My sister had a dodge minivan v6. I never touched that engine the oil filter screwed into a plastic piece. If that wasnt tightened correctly it cracked. You had to take the intake manifold off to fix it?
This Antilock Brake System will be disabled whenever that code is stored, so don't expect it to ever work right in a panic stop or any other time that you would need the Brake System not to lock up so that you can still choose the target that you would like to hit. When it's disabled, you will definitely have no control of the steering ! It may stop in time with conventional brakes, but you definitely will not be able to steer if the wheels do lock up ! Just something that you should already know, but many other people do not even know. 😏
Ladies and gentlemen this is how a mechanic maintains the personal vehicle. All issues are cataloged in the brain and the drivetrain will be flawless. The other stuff can ride on a cost benefit ratio. 😂
One of my pet peeves is always blowing out the trash on the windscreen cowling. I hate seeing the leaves and pine needles caked up there at the bottom of the windshield.
Their is one additive I use and have been using for 33 years now. I ran across it at around 1990 at the Portland Swap meet. It’s IXL anti-friction metal conditioner. They had a ford 300ci inline 6 cylinder engine that they took out of a van . Did the proscribed treatment procedure then drained the oil out of it. Then they mounted the engine on a frame on a flatbed trailer. They removed the valve cover, oil filter, oil pan and made a safety cage out of expanded steel so no one could get harmed by moving parts. But they did have a hole in the cage at the side of the block where the engine oil filter was. I stood their for about 4 hours watching them start run the engine for 15 minutes then shut it off. I actually put my fingers over the oil passages at where the oil filter should be and felt air coming out from the oil pump. I said to myself they are telling the truth or they are lying and using some top secret stuff. So I purchased some and been using it ever since. Theirs a long story about the guy who originally created it , but to lengthy to go into here.. if anyone doubts what I say, I will swear to it on a affidavit and sign it in blue ink. I have in my automatic transmissions , AC systems, power steering etc….P.S. I live in the Pacific Northwest and I have to work on my vehicles in the driveway, no shop to keep me dry and warm in the winter time and I’ll be dammed if I’m going to be doing work on my vehicles in the winter in the rain and wind if at all possible. I get my vehicles ready by fall every year to get through the winter months hopefully whiteout any repair work if at all possible. I’m a retired heavy duty diesel mechanic.
@@DaveBigDawg you can. I’ve been using it for over 30+ years in stuff they don’t even recommend. I know it works just by the results I’ve gotten over the decades. Simple I swear by it. I use it in all my vehicles and these vehicles have in my family for over 25 years for the newest one and I do all the maintenance and repairs on them.
I would have believed your story except you offered to sign the affidavit in blue ink. If you had said black ink, I would know you're telling the truth, but smart people know that signing in blue ink indicates you are a not telling the truth. The blue ink people are trying to take over society by signing in blue ink, because they know it invalidates everything signed with it. Nice try, but we're on to your plot to destroy America.
Love the videos. I don't agree with using box wrench for removing oil plug. I use 6 point socket and use Torque setting on replacement as per Mfg. Owner's Manual. Had a 2005 Dodge Caravan STX 6 Cyl. that was a one and done. Nothing but a headache. Bought new and transmission went out at 10K. The car nickle and dime us for years... Windows not working and then problems with fuel pump. NEVER a Dodge again...
I guess your objection to the box end wrench is that he used a 12 point vice a 6 point. He explained that since he put it back in last time and doesn't guerilla torque it, he knows a 12 point box end will take it out easily. Perfect. And if he found it was giving a lot of resistance, he would swich to a 6 point. Socket doesn't give anything over what a box end wrench does.
Hi It's Mrs Wrenching. I'm sorry to hear about your horrible experience with your Caravan. We used to call them BoFs, born of Friday, the manufacturing plant rolled it off the line on Friday & rushed through it. Therefore, nothing but problems. I was a service writer for Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram. What do you drive now? Meg
@@WrenchingWithKenny 2014 CR-V 132K, 2007 Civic Si 270K, 2022 Civic Si 6.2K. Yeah I think we got rid of the 2005 Caravan with around 100K in 2014 for CR-V.
A few years ago, wanted to push my oil change on my own vehicle, with supposed 15K mile oil? My vehicles were bought new by myself, this Focus is 19 years old at the moment, with only 60K? At approximately 40K did push the oil to 19K? Knowing the history of the vehicle was the only reason I decided to do this? I do the first oil changes at 500-700 miles upon new, then they get full synthetic for the life of the vehicle. I used a 15K filter along with the 15K oil and religiously checked it's condition to 19K, when I decided to just not chance it any longer? Nothing got damaged or excessively worn on the engine whatsoever? Actually took the engine out and was going to modify it with a turbo, before reinstalling it, which never came to fruition? Would not recommend this to anyone, just wanted to see what would happen? Engine still looks like new internally and was not really worried, since it was well cared for it entire life? If the engine was full of sludge, never would have thought to push it at all, past the 4K -7K oil change interval it's had through it's lifetime? Great job, Kenny. Just thought I throw in a stupid thing I did?
I do 5000 mile oil now set to 5000/10,000 odometer intervals. Glad my 86 does not have low tire sensor system. I check air monthly as the temps change. Original engine, oil pan, and drain plug for 37 years daily driving and 482,000 miles.
Jeep Cherokee 4.0?
"Ring the bell" refers to setting the notifications to notify when a fresh video drops, which is a great idea for accounts like yours!
all these filter manufacturers have instructions to tighten them 2/3 to 3/4 of a turn after it makes contact, they really want to make sure it does not leak or come loose. it is hard even getting to 2/3 of a turn snug by hand is good. i find silicone grease on gasket keeps them from sticking really well.
rubber ring on the engine mount side is anti drain back valve .coil looking valve on other end is by pass valve
I don’t bother with a sticker on my vehicle. I use trip A to track the miles. On my wife’s vehicle, I use the sticker. She also has the service soon light as a reminder. Because I travel a lot I can’t always change her oil. When I do it after the dealership had done it, I’ll often need a breaker bar to loosen the drain plug and filter. I’ll also look over the items they say are in need of repair. I get the impression they are trying to take advantage. From some estimates she’s come back with, I’d go so far as to call it fraud.
Dealer trying to take advantage???? Nooooo. You can't really believe that?????? Dealers are totally honest in the sales dept and the service dept. They know your car better than anyone else, and if the service dept wants $4,000 to do a vital repair, the same repair an independent shop wants $200 for, be sure to have the dealer do it bcause those independent shops are just cutting corners and don't know your car like the dealers do. :People call them stealerships for a reason.
They think they can get over on the women, some men too, that are not mechanically inclined.
I just wanted to add, I try to remember at what miles to do it, but I don't rack up miles like I use to, so I check it often and when it starts looking dirty, I change it.
I hope that was sarcassim.
@@LesReeves Not at all. I have estimates from the dealership, e.g., $850 for an end link. $50 part, 10 minutes of labor. What would you call that?
The issue with the ABS, Brake, etc. lights is most likely micro-fracturing of the ABS module solder joints on the circuit board components with pins. I had the same issue with my Son's Buick LeSabre and once I opened up the unit, the fatigued solder joints were obvious. I resoldered the suspect joints and installed the module and it has been fine.
I feel that you are probably correct on this one too.
Depending on the board, reflowing in a disposable toaster oven is a good thing to do prior to the manual resoldering of particular joints.. cuz if a few are going bad, the rest are probably next
I know my current car needs a 14 mm wrench. I don't have a torque wrench. I as actually have 2 filter wrenches and a filter socket. The newer cars won't come off without a filter wrench. I don't want to junk the car. Last if the screw on filter.
Ford boss me channel did on a Dodge also a Marvel mystery oil treatment on a 5.2l and did a great job to clean the engine. Also BG have a kit to clean the excessive sludge with pretty good results. Put maintenance first and as you said !!! Thanks for the content.
Yessir rich (ford boss me) is also great !!
5.1.23. 😮Damn Kenny, almost clean shaven! Lol
Someone probably already posted this but, the valve up around the fill holes is the drain back valve and the valve in the bottom of the filter is the bypass valve.
Holy clean face!!! Thought it was a different channel. Lookin good sir! Hustle on!
Filter looks a little loose but if it works for you and never leaks then its all good! I always do 3/4 turn after gasket touches.
My 85 d150 oil filter came off with 2 fingers last time i changed my oil. That kinda surprised me as usually i use my band wrench (its never too tight to take off by hand but its just easier in the location its at)
Drain plug is about spot on to how i do chrysler plugs. Those you dont want too tight.. just enough where you feel the gasket squish. The new DT ram 1500s come off with a little more than the weight of the wrench on the first oil change. Oil fiters are put on TIGHT from the factory though. Just about throw my arm out getting those factory installed filters off when i used to do quick lube.
Kenny’s oil filter torque was fine in this video. Once the motor heats up the oil filter gasket is going to swell making it even tighter than what he left it. The seal swell’s more than it shrinks when going through these cycles so it’s always going to be tighter than what you left it.
True, you tighten them up hand tight and they tighten up them selves a bit more from gasket swell or something.
Kenny's looked a little too easy for me. I wouldn't want it loosening just from vibration.
That is a good engine. I keep my van tires at 40 psi also. I still have original struts in front at 132k miles. Not leaking. Replaced rear shocks. Have hauled plenty of building materials too with stow'n go.
That's great! Thanks for sharing. Keep wrenching 🔧
Kenny you should consider wearing latex gloves when changing oil. The old dirty contaminated oil is actually carcinogenic. Just looking out for you brother. Good video!
Thank you!
I look like a hockey player anytime I'm working on my vehicles.(backbrace/knee pads/saftey boots/googles & mechanic gloves.But hey don't get injuries so I don't care what I look like.
They make grippy rubber chemical gloves that you can reuse if the latex gloves aren't your thing.
@@chuckgladfelter We call them mechanics gloves they are coated on nitrile solution. Use them all the time.
Great videos! And superb knowledge/ technique!!! I also love your shop and surrounding trees and green areas!!!!
I've never owned a vehicle that didn't have the original drain plug. I don't see the emphasis. Mine all use crush washers and I tighten them enough to seal. I give the filter 3/4 turn as the manufacturer specifies. Never had one stuck nor has one leaked in 52 years of service and driving. Never pre-filled a filter except for on a hydrostatic drive that recommends it. Of course don't over-tighten or under-tighten anything.
When other youtubers say ring the bell. It means the subscribers get a notification when you post new videos.
I base all my maintenance in increments of 5 so I don’t need no sticker.all service is done within 500 miles of that 5k Ie: last oil change was at 129600 because I knew I wouldn’t have time for it when it was due. Once in awhile it’s within the 500 over. Same with trans,diff.
Wow, Kenny looks younger without the stubble.
I'm a very young looking 57 year old. I look mid to late 40s (oily Italian skin). But when I don't shave for a couple of days, I look like an old man!
Here's my oil story: In 1978 my Dad had a house built and bought a brand new Olds Cutlass 350 4bbl w/ 350 turbo hydramatic. He called me over to change the oil in his new car at his new house. My baby sister carved her initials in the cement so I know what year it was. We put Mobil 1, probably 10W-40 in it. On the oil can it said go 25,000 miles between changes. So he did. It didn't burn enough oil to see it on the stick. But Dad was pretty nervous when he finally hit 25,000 miles. So since he was soooo nervous about going 25,000 miles we reasoned that we'd go 10,000 and change the filter every time instead of 5,000 and filter every other time like we'd done with regular motor oil. I have lived by that reasoning. I have 325,000 miles on my 1998 GMC Yukon 5.7 Vortec original engine and it only uses enough oil to be down from the full mark on the stick by about 1/16". And that's only since the engine oil cooler lines have started leaking. That's my story and I'm dip-sticking to it. ben/ michigan. PS The Yukon is almost rusted in half, but the Vortec is like new.
Got an Odyssey with one power door that doesn't work after a cable snapped . Removed the cables and use it manually for that side. Don't use it enough to care.
I had a 1986 Oldsmobile Achieva that we encountered the same ABS issue. I found an ABS 'brain' from a 1987 Achieva that was totaled in the rear. The front clip was all good so I purchased the ABS brain and installed it on the 1986. The took it to a dealer and they set it up with their computer. All issues disappeared. Worked like it was suppose to.
That thing in the filter you say was anti drain back is a bypass for when the filter get plugged
Looked like from where the filter made contact you went 1/2 turn. As I recall some filters said do 3/4 turn. As long as it doesn't come loose you are fine. I've had a filter come loose before on mine. I don't know what they did at the oil change places. They must have tightened it some as it did not leak for hundreds of miles but then began to leak significantly.
I can tell you what they did at the oil change place....they didnt tighten it enough,just like he did here in this video. Then with the constant vibration, it loosened.
I don’t use oil change stickers either. I keep a log book in all of my vehicles and record everything I do to the vehicle. I change my oil at 5,000 mile increments so all I have to do is look at the odometer and see when the next multiple of 5,000 comes up and I know it is time for an oil change. No need to remember the last time, just don’t go too far past the 5,000 multiple. I do 10,000 tire rotations for the same reason. Every other oil change and easy to remember.
Oil gets past the rings into the combustion chamber,as the ring goes down. If you run 5w30, it will be more. The newer oil life indicators may be reset with a button on the dash. I know that is no information, but I was underneath them.
Good morning Mr Kenny hope y'all have a great day
Hey Kenny, a little tidbit just for the sake of it. When working for Chrysler dealers from 1979-1994, we were always told that the main difference between Dodge cars and trucks was that trucks were built with chromed piston rings, always and has an extra quart capacity oil quantity. Those chromed rings really took a long time to fully seat bur with regular maintenance, they would last a lifetime.
My old 92 s10 4.3 i ran full synthetic oil chang every 15000 i drove over 200 miles a day it lasted 320000 miles b4 it broke i open it up it was very clean inside had a wrist pin bad
That was awesome. Stole the wife's car , then revs 🤣that filter looked better and your wife's wasn't crushed inside. Cool video with the comparing the two. Thanks Kenny and see ya next time🙋♂️
"Drive it like I stole it!" LOL! I like that one!
If you want to know if there is any meatal in that filter you need to squeeze the filter paper in a vice it will show any thing in it.
There is no way I am leaving my oil filter that loose. Of course, I don't make it very tight, but what you did there seems a little risky.
I tighten by hand... till it wont move.
I'll have to agree with you fingertight is different than hand. Most filters say three quarter to a full turn and that looked like half a turn. I usually do 13/16 just to be sure. 😁
Same thing with tightening the drain plug. I don't recall that but I get it tighter than that. I'm thinking of heating, cooling cycles and how it affects the gaskets as they relax into shape.
I love Kenny's content here and the extra details thrown in above and beyond the main topic.
Information about the brake light, information about the strut and not removing that crossmember bolt. That's the kind of stuff you look for when doing your oil change so I think it's great bringing that up.
Yeah I'm the same way I'd like to tighten it a little more God forbid you had a bump and it loosens and Leaks.
A pet peeve of mine also is people who over-tighten fasteners, particularly lug nuts. Having said that, you are under-tightening your oil filters. They should not come off by hand. I can’t tell on your drain plug, but that looked on the light side as well. Most of the time you can get away with that, but occasionally you can get leaks through the oil filter gasket if it isn’t compressed sufficiently. The 3/4 turn that is the low end of what most filter makers recommend works great. It will take a filter wrench to remove, but they make filter wrenches for a reason. And 3/4 turn guarantees you will have enough gasket compression to never have a leak. Same with the drain plug. Torque to the low end of the torque spec and you have enough, but not too much.
@@randywl8925 I take mine to 13.5/16 just to be sure.
Some times you can get rid of abs faults like that by changing brake fluid and bleeding the ABS pump . Other times new track rod ends and a slight alignment.
We have a 2004 grand caravan with the 3.3 it has been beyond excellent as a family van, bought it new. Now has 291K does not use oil as long as I keep it changed at @4K. Transmission slips at cold start when it's in the 30s but it's our beater now. We'll keep it until it doesn't move then off to the yard. Maybe I can get another 10 years out of it.
have been dealing with that c2200 on my 2014 dodge journey for about 1.5 yrs now, that abs unit is on backorder everywhere, it works every so often and a lot more often during the summer ,bad thing is you lose your cruise control as well
The filter cutting tool works better when u put the filter in a vise and turn the cutter. Lol
I change my vehicles oil when it needs a saftey inspection as I don't drive more than 5,000 klms (approx3,000 mls) a year & have no problems.Cheers K.
Hi Kenny I used to work at a coal mine and the heavy duty mechanics there always cut open the filters but what they did was they would take a section of the filter paper and leave it folded and wrap a piece of paper towel around it and squeeze it in a vice that got rid of the excess oil and made it easier to look for contamination they also took a oil sample every oil change that they sent to a lab the reports had a lot of information
Wow. That's what you call experienced mechanics! Great idea. I've never seen anyone on UA-cam do that.
@@TheFrenchPug
This is standard practice to check oil filters and oil for wear issues, with heavy vehicles that do a lot of mileage on their oil; they also do multiple oil filter changes in between oil changes.
I had a mechanic at a tire shop have to chisel the old filter loose. His filter wrench looked like a pair of bbq tongs. The tire shop went out of business.
If you ever get a car with a catch can, please film it and explain its purpose.
Interesting oil filter comparison and explanation of the internal components of an oil filter 👍
What about fram orange can of death videos. Videos put fram out of business or at least orange filters?
Look at you, all cleaned up!
Do all oil filters have the same threading? What changes between different oil filters? How can I tell what oil filters I can use? We have a 2002 Nissan Altima with a 4 cylinder engine.
No. Not much. You have to look it up in your owner's manual or check with the parts store.
Regarding sticky dash, I’m sure you and many viewers know that reason your windows get sticky is because the plastic-petroleum dash is out gasping chemicals. I keep two hand towels on my dash to slow this down. Parking in a garage will help too.
Hey Kenny
Take the gasket off the oil filter prior to cutting it open, makes it easier. I had a caravan with the 3.3. Put 200k on it changed the oil every 3k. No issues ever. Thales care.
Kenny hi the other day at the dealership there was a new young lube tech having a difficult time removing a cartridge filter so I went over to help him remove it he did not have a very long ratchet or a breaker bar or even a pipe so I used my breaker bar with a piece of pipe to remove it and even with that I still had a little trouble people are never going to learn what snug is when the filter stops turning you stop turning after I told him that he should have a breaker bar in his tool cart as should any lube and tire tech there only 20 bucks at hft and there is a lifetime so if it breaks you just return it for a new one no recipe needed
Question for you: Kia and Hyundai autos are Korean manufactured using Korean plastic formulations. Navien tankless water heaters are manufactured using South Korean plastics. The plastic on the Naviens break down under high temperatures. They emit an oily film during the deterioration process. Perhaps excessive temperatures (sun interior heat) cause the plastic dashboards in the Kia and Hyundai vehicles to breakdown.
Korean quality is like Chinese quality, whereas Japanese and Taiwanese stuff is higher quality.
The Kia dashboard to clean it you need cheap alcohol based hand sanitiser, and a lot of shop rags, to wipe off that film of degraded urethane on the plastic parts. works for me, and gets most of it off after a few goes, making the cloths become very goopy when applied, and the second time it will be cleaner, and then clean. Gel based ones work best, they hold on to the surface better. you will use a lot, i used around 50ml to clean a small piece, and am slowly working my way through to the rest. Then hit with dashboard protector to keep it semi clean and coming back.
Then it comes back because the problem is the cheap material the chinese made it with. But sure, cleaning it helps for a while.
I use Archoil 9100 to everything, after it proved to me to clean up the hydraulic side of my injectors on my old 7.3 Powerstroke. Diffs, t-cases, engine oil, and power steering.
I have always wet my finger and run it around the new ring/seal with oil when reinstalling a new oil filter, is that the wrong thing to do? I only hand tighten the filter too. The one time I paid for an oil change the shop guy used an oil filter wrench to "snug" the filter on..I have to drive a screwdriver through the filter to twist it off on the next oil change. I complained..they told me it was shop policy. I told them it was my shops policy never to do business with them again..bought a 4 post lift 3 weeks later and been doing all repair myself since.
Check your abs control power and ground circuits. Just a tip.
Appreciate the insight! I gotta get into now because the light is still on & it has been a week. Usually, it would go off the next day & stay off for an extended period of time. Keep wrenching
I had a 2006 Town and Country i purchasesd new. Got 260K on original engine and transmission before i sold it. Only had the electric doors give me problems with age. It was a very comfortable vehicle.
I have had a check engine light on for 3 or 4 years now and its the 02 sensor for cat its detecting low efficiency i am not to worried because its running very well still
Meg gets worried if the lights aren't on. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧
"Stole the wife's car" 😆 I have to do the same thing when maintenance is due...
Hey Kenny, I enjoy your videos.
When you picked it up an was driving to your shop i knew that ot was probably a chrysler town in country touring if im not mistaken ! The window switch on driver side of mine went bad changed it an fixed the door lock along with the window not going up ! We bought it used had 120000 miles on it at 140000 miles had to replace transmission a yr or two later i had to replace the PCM not a fan of these vans ! But its still getting us around ! Lol
A strip of black electrical tape works great to reset those annoying lights !!
Fixed an SRS light on my Jeep that way so I could ship it… shipping company policy is they won’t ship it with any lights on the dash, but the light won’t go out until the car gets a new module that Jeep is out of stock on… problem solved 😂
My check engine light went out after 10 years + (vacuum leak, I knew what it was, no worries) 'cause the bulb finally died. So what does the oil change crew do? Put in a new bulb....
Had a little laugh to my self.
Paraphrasing “ That light on the dash just means traction control isn’t working. My wife don’t need that where she’s going” .
I do enjoy your videos, that’s just an observation 🤠
I also drive it like i stole it 🤣my mechanic hates it. I do use an oil treatment liquid moly ceratec and iv been happy with it, no gummy grose residue and it get rid of the volvo 5 cylinder tick.
My Dad taught me to always replace the oil pan plug gasket with a copper washer when doing an oil change. Did your plug include a washer ?
Only if it had a gasket or o-ring to begin with. My Ford did not and I've never had an issue with it leaking. Some manufacturers use a gasket or o-ring on their drain plugs. If they have one, it's a good idea to replace it every time you replace the oil.
Most modern drain plugs have an o-ring seal that is built into the drain plug, no need for copper gaskets. Those copper gaskets can be reused if you anneal them on a stove. I've done this for years on Triumph motorcycles,t hey have a solid copper head gasket.
Some engines have plugs with aluminium crush washers that need replacing with every oil change.
A number of cheap plastics break down like that. I’ve had a few tools cushioned handles the become sticky after 5-8 years of age. Very annoying, but with hand tools I just shake some talcum powder on them and keep using them. Powder probably would not look as nice on a car dash.
TPMS sensor batteries are usually fairly easy to change, very cheap.
My Saturn has a button in the fuse box under the hood that you turn the key to run and press and hold for 5 Mississippi’s. Wife’s G6 you reset oil counter with the radio display by using menu to get to reset oil life then enter and hold until it says acknowledged. F150 doesn’t have one as far as I can tell. If it does it must be set to 500,000 miles.
So why are you against replacing ATF? You don’t believe that metal shavings are good for the clutches do you?
Why not tighten the drain plug to spec with a torque wrench and the filter to manufacturers instructions on the side of the filter? I know after years of daily experience you develop a feel that can be very accurate but it’s a quick and simple procedure to do it with exact precision. Also your feel for the filter tightening can be inaccurate depending on oil on or not on the gasket. Why do mechanics believe they can be as precise by feel as they would be with torque wrenches?
You sound surprised that the scan tool reads the same mileage as the odometer. 😁
I enjoy your channel always look forward to your videos
that little motor sounded like the Steve McQueen ford mustang chase scene in the Bullitt movie.
I might change a filter every 3, 4 oil changes.. its a closed loop system and only gets contaminated if you introduce contaminants.. early engines just relied on oil changes to remove the contaminants from the system.. bypass valves in filters will allow the chunky bits pass when oil is cold and needs to flow.. neglect and abuse kills engines just like humans..
Big difference, makes me want to go change mine now.
😂😂 Keep Wrenching
Do you think those b I g oil filter magnets that you put on the sides of the filter work I mean t 24:02 hey have to trap some metal's.
Yes wondering same about those magnets?
I think Napa oil is made by Valvoline. Oil is cheap when compared to engine replacement. Please use proper grade and brand name of oil. Do not forget to grease fitting if your car has them and use a good grade and brand of grease. Rotate your tires and if possible put spare in rotation if not check air in it wd forty the spare tire lift ig spare is outside. If city driver change at three thousand because stop and go or if paper or mail carrier orr school van use. I friend baught a repo mans truck it had six thousand mile oil service the engine was failing due to lots idling crazy driving of repo trade I have same model I hotshot otr fright 15 percent idel time his track has 80 percent ifeling 10 percent in top gear mine the idele is 20 percent 89 percent in top gear
Great advice! Thanks for sharing
So - more clean the engine discussion.
You don't need additives to clean the engine if it has visible deposits inside.
Here's some truth for ya. All engine oils will leave deposits in the engine if you leave them in the engine after they begin breaking down.
That what causes the deposits - old oil run too long in the engine.
To CLEAN the engine - get two cheapo filters and use HD30 engine oil. The HD in HD30 is High Detergent.
Drain the oil as usual and put a cheapo filter on.
Start and run the engine until you see the oil getting dark on the stick.
Maybe between 30 minutes to an hour. Don't drive it - but you may rev up the engine to 1500 RPM'S for a few seconds during the run process.
Change the engine oil - and install the second cheapo filter. Fill again with HD30 engine oil. Go driving - one to two hours.
When you get back - drain and refill with the oil of your choice and a GOOD engine oil filter. Wix XP filter line is preferable. And I personally prefer Valvoline 100% synthetic engine oil.
Now - drive like normal but check the oil every day. We it gets noticeably dark change it again.
Begin changing the oil when it changes color - rarely should you go strictly by mileage.
My wife drives one hour each way to work each day - we change it every 5K on her car.
Her car is new and gets free oil changes at the dealer - and they use synthetic engine oil.
My truck oil is changed when the oil begins getting discolored. Mileage varies but it is typically between 2000 to maybe 3000 miles.
I drive differently than she does.
My 2002 Suburban has 190K miles on it. It gets Valvoline Full Syn 10w-30 engine oil - no additives - and a longer WIX XP oil filter than stock.
No cheap oil filters under regular service.
The inside of the engines look clean with no deposits.
I also removed the oil filter bypass mechanism and plugged the hole so ALL of the engine oil goes thru the engine oil filter.
100% filtration.
I still cut my filters open to see what's going on in there and every other oil change I send a vial of oil to have it analyzed.
But never ever any cleaners, extra detergents or additives.
Just engine oil and regular oil changes BEFORE the engine oil breaks down and begins causing problems.
Here's some more if you're still here :
Look at the owners manual. Extreme use of engine is defined as lots of stop and go driving - lots of never getting the engine up to temp fully - lots of in town city driving.
That's as bad or worse for your engine as hot rodding around all the time - and put extended oil change intervals in the mix and it's no wonder engines are trashed way too soon.
FYI - my Suburban drives like new, doesn't smoke, and still has between 40-60 pounds of oil pressure.
also a Valvoline fan Used to use Semi Synthetic until Valvoline came out with full Synthetic 88Merc Grand Marquis Ls 302 V8 188k never added oil between changes changed valve cover gaskets Inside of valve cover was like new Never more than 4K on engine oil Been using Valvoline for 40yrs
My general rule of thumb with spin - on filters is to tighten them about as tight as you can with one hand.
Then if you were to take it off next week you would find you almost need a wrench.
I would rather have them pretty tight, but good grief don't get stupid.
Back in my youth I helped a friend get a spin on filter off that someone tightened until the metal edge of the filter contacted the engine block.
Put it this way, the final remains of the filter were finally turned with a chisel
napa oil and advance filter. interesting.
Ok i hear u on oil addictives but wat about the rislone zddp zinc additive supplement for gm trucks?
Hi Kenny, I don’t like those sticky additives either. Used them on old junker vehicles in the sixties and early seventies though. Then I got to know some of the top techs at my Toyota dealer in Southern California in 2002. We had a discussion regarding Prolong. I’ve used it ever since my first oil change in my 03’ Tacoma 3.4. It’s really great stuff and does exactly as advertised. Don’t want to make this long so , I ran it in an old Taurus wagon and blew a radiator hose. Drove it another 115 miles no coolant and didn’t over heat. However, after fixing the hose ran it and had a slight wrist pin noise. Car still smooth. Lots of stories about this treatment if you look. I still use it and it’s they only additive I ever use.
Should send something to Project Farm and he will test it
You say you drove it 115 miles with a broken radiator hose? You nose is growing.
@@jeffro221
No, wouldn’t lie about it. There are also videos about running a prolonged engine without an oil pan. Al Unser did one. Search UA-cam for those videos. I know it’s hard to believe. But it actually happened to me . San Diego to Orange Co. speeds up to 75 mph. Check it out.
During an exhibition Prolng drove a car with no radiator and no oil pan from Santa Barbara to San Diego. Engine quit there. Just over 200miles.
In my family we have owned 16 300,000 mile GMs and only one had to have a oil drain pan bolt , that's one of the used trucks i bought..
My 284,000 mile Grand Prix had the original oil pan bashed in and had the original oil pan and drain bolt and didn't leak a drop...
properly
Changing oil is common basic sense..
I'm a subscriber. I hit the like button on every video I watch. I really enjoy your content. Can you share your opinion on using a catch can for the PCV system. I just put a new intake on my car the intake cost like $700.00 and the thought of oil coating the inside of my brand new intake is driving me crazy. Just tell me what you think real quick if you don't mind I I really appreciate it. I trust your advice
A catch can is a good thing to have. Post your question on our Facebook page Wrenching with Kenny. I'm sure a few people will chime in about it.
@@WrenchingWithKenny I didn't know you had a page i'll be heading that way now thanks kenny.
I'm not Kenny, but I've just been through this. I have an old 1988 S10 with 286,000 miles. I've been wrenchin' for 50 years, even built 2 Chevy 350s and custom ported a new pair of heads.
I've done it all..... so I thought.
I've been fighting internal engine moisture issues for the last year +
...bear with me. We've had a prolonged, much cooler and wetter winter. The catch can I made from a thermos had the equivalent of baby snot and motor oil in it.
.....yellowish goo, plus oil.
My rocker arm cover always had some oil film on it at the base of the oil fill tube. I just cleaned it every couple of months so the top of the engine looked better.
I finally decided to get a new gasket.
Turned out to be an O-ring.
Once I installed the oil fill tube O-ring, EVERYTHING changed.
I mean, immediately. The leaking/O-ring was most of my problems.
To be fair, a month earlier I had installed a new thermostat because my engine was not getting all the way up to temperature........ Running to cool, plus the PCV system not sealing properly and evacuating the crankcase moisture. ...the cause of the snot in my home made catch can. The non sealing O-ring was allowing moisture laden air into the system right next to the PCV valve, and not evacuating it from the other side of the engine and crankcase...... Moisture was just building up.
After my experiences with this moisture and inside a catch can I would recommend it.
Install it on the PCV side of the engine. They make some pretty cheap catch cans.
Buy one of those, install it, and see what collects inside of over time.
...a week, then a month, then two months.
If you can see oil building up inside the can, then that means it's contained and isnt being sucked into the engine to foul your spark plugs and valves.
The catch cans can be quite cheap and if you can do it yourself, I say go for it
Some new cars even come with catch cans installed from the factory.
All they're going to do is catch oil vapors and moisture to prevent them from being burnt, and contaminating the spark plugs and valves.
"ring the bell" refers to it pops up on their feed. for example like there phones and electronic so they dont miss any of your videos :D
I've never, ever ever stripped out an oil plug. Don't understand this over tightening of things some people have. My oil filters do seem to come off harder than yours do however. 🤷
Kenny I have something to confess I too have over tightened my oil filter 😢
“Ring the bell” is a reminder telling us to go looking once you post your next video. Thanks Kenny!
We will get a notification when Kenny posts a new video if UA-cam notifications are turned on.
We’re do you get that cutting tool at ?
I do my oil every 12-15k miles on my vw van , never needs topping up it’s on 251k mikes now
In the UK 🇬🇧 lights on dash fails road worthiness test
My sister had a dodge minivan v6. I never touched that engine the oil filter screwed into a plastic piece. If that wasnt tightened correctly it cracked. You had to take the intake manifold off to fix it?
Her water pump quit and it cooked the engine.
On diesels too?
This Antilock Brake System will be disabled whenever that code is stored, so don't expect it to ever work right in a panic stop or any other time that you would need the Brake System not to lock up so that you can still choose the target that you would like to hit. When it's disabled, you will definitely have no control of the steering ! It may stop in time with conventional brakes, but you definitely will not be able to steer if the wheels do lock up ! Just something that you should already know, but many other people do not even know. 😏
Ladies and gentlemen this is how a mechanic maintains the personal vehicle. All issues are cataloged in the brain and the drivetrain will be flawless. The other stuff can ride on a cost benefit ratio. 😂
Correct! My wife has the reflexes of a cat
It means the notification bell. It will ding the I pad or phone when you post a new vid alerting them to that fact.
I have had several Saab 9-5, and if you leave the key in the car, and the sund gets to it, it gets sticky, and almost impossible to get clean...?
One of my pet peeves is always blowing out the trash on the windscreen cowling. I hate seeing the leaves and pine needles caked up there at the bottom of the windshield.
I know right! Those who leave that there risk clogging the cabin air filter which will eventually get into the motor blower.
AND defog/defrost less effective when the screen is full of maple seed pods!
Good content, all of us wanna cut up our filters now lol. You have us wondering our filters look like inside😅
What do you think of ford filters & oil
Those are good but mobile one is better . Unless you were under warranty then Use motorcraft filters.
Step #1 is Pull the hood latch under the dash. 😉😁
Step one is open the door
Yup, his step one made me roll my eyes, too.
Their is one additive I use and have been using for 33 years now. I ran across it at around 1990 at the Portland Swap meet. It’s IXL anti-friction metal conditioner. They had a ford 300ci inline 6 cylinder engine that they took out of a van . Did the proscribed treatment procedure then drained the oil out of it. Then they mounted the engine on a frame on a flatbed trailer. They removed the valve cover, oil filter, oil pan and made a safety cage out of expanded steel so no one could get harmed by moving parts. But they did have a hole in the cage at the side of the block where the engine oil filter was. I stood their for about 4 hours watching them start run the engine for 15 minutes then shut it off. I actually put my fingers over the oil passages at where the oil filter should be and felt air coming out from the oil pump. I said to myself they are telling the truth or they are lying and using some top secret stuff. So I purchased some and been using it ever since. Theirs a long story about the guy who originally created it , but to lengthy to go into here.. if anyone doubts what I say, I will swear to it on a affidavit and sign it in blue ink. I have in my automatic transmissions , AC systems, power steering etc….P.S. I live in the Pacific Northwest and I have to work on my vehicles in the driveway, no shop to keep me dry and warm in the winter time and I’ll be dammed if I’m going to be doing work on my vehicles in the winter in the rain and wind if at all possible. I get my vehicles ready by fall every year to get through the winter months hopefully whiteout any repair work if at all possible. I’m a retired heavy duty diesel mechanic.
You should send your story to Project Farm and he will test it
@@DaveBigDawg you can. I’ve been using it for over 30+ years in stuff they don’t even recommend. I know it works just by the results I’ve gotten over the decades. Simple I swear by it. I use it in all my vehicles and these vehicles have in my family for over 25 years for the newest one and I do all the maintenance and repairs on them.
I would have believed your story except you offered to sign the affidavit in blue ink. If you had said black ink, I would know you're telling the truth, but smart people know that signing in blue ink indicates you are a not telling the truth. The blue ink people are trying to take over society by signing in blue ink, because they know it invalidates everything signed with it. Nice try, but we're on to your plot to destroy America.
Love the videos. I don't agree with using box wrench for removing oil plug. I use 6 point socket and use Torque setting on replacement as per Mfg. Owner's Manual. Had a 2005 Dodge Caravan STX 6 Cyl. that was a one and done. Nothing but a headache. Bought new and transmission went out at 10K. The car nickle and dime us for years... Windows not working and then problems with fuel pump. NEVER a Dodge again...
I guess your objection to the box end wrench is that he used a 12 point vice a 6 point. He explained that since he put it back in last time and doesn't guerilla torque it, he knows a 12 point box end will take it out easily. Perfect. And if he found it was giving a lot of resistance, he would swich to a 6 point. Socket doesn't give anything over what a box end wrench does.
@@jeffro221 I wouldn't use neither. correct. If the box slips off you could likely get hurt more than a socket...
Hi It's Mrs Wrenching. I'm sorry to hear about your horrible experience with your Caravan. We used to call them BoFs, born of Friday, the manufacturing plant rolled it off the line on Friday & rushed through it. Therefore, nothing but problems. I was a service writer for Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ram. What do you drive now? Meg
@@WrenchingWithKenny 2014 CR-V 132K, 2007 Civic Si 270K, 2022 Civic Si 6.2K. Yeah I think we got rid of the 2005 Caravan with around 100K in 2014 for CR-V.
A few years ago, wanted to push my oil change on my own vehicle, with supposed 15K mile oil? My vehicles were bought new by myself, this Focus is 19 years old at the moment, with only 60K? At approximately 40K did push the oil to 19K? Knowing the history of the vehicle was the only reason I decided to do this? I do the first oil changes at 500-700 miles upon new, then they get full synthetic for the life of the vehicle. I used a 15K filter along with the 15K oil and religiously checked it's condition to 19K, when I decided to just not chance it any longer? Nothing got damaged or excessively worn on the engine whatsoever? Actually took the engine out and was going to modify it with a turbo, before reinstalling it, which never came to fruition? Would not recommend this to anyone, just wanted to see what would happen? Engine still looks like new internally and was not really worried, since it was well cared for it entire life? If the engine was full of sludge, never would have thought to push it at all, past the 4K -7K oil change interval it's had through it's lifetime? Great job, Kenny. Just thought I throw in a stupid thing I did?
I have 4 veocles. The oil is changed every 5500 kilometers, and they don't use 1 drop of oil between changes