Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support: TIP: Click the "THANKS" button Become a UA-cam Member, by clicking "JOIN" Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping: Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9 Creality: shrsl.com/424l2 Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9 Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM
Thanks for this, sorted out a problem I had that was driving me crazy! I was having a bunch of prints stepping out of alignment and it was screwing up some very long prints. Thanks for all your great tutorials. Can I suggest a “Things to check on your V3 SE” video, like a basic service and settings video would be good for newbies like me.
This video was trending at 1/10 for my channel (#1 compared to my last 10 videos, in the same time period since upload), but I had to delete it, do to a massive brain fart, showing the wrong Screw. So... it's back. Replaced with a newly shot segment.
Hey also check your screws on your nozzle. I had an error 2401 hight anomaly they replaced the mainboard and the strain gauge. That didn’t work still got the error. I found an old Reddit post about this code to check the screws they hold the nozzle in. Well i checked them gave the nozzle a wiggle and it fell into my hands. Long story put the screws in and that fixed it
CreaLIEty screwed me over on the v3 plus arrived missing bolts on the bottom of the rails that play a part in stabalising the machine (not the support twisty things you install yourself) . I asked them how to tension the belt as there were no instructions before they pointed out to check the part where they were missing. They also said the belt should be fine , so i assume there is no method of tensioning the belt ?
I am always happy to help, but I ask we don't make me participate in a conversation that uses hurtful language toward my friends at Creality. They are PEOPLE just like us, and insulting comments on the internet, make them sad, just like us. I also don't wish to hurt my relationship with them, as they ARE here on my channel. That said, sure, mistake happen. It's possible, the long shipping process, vibrated the bolt loose and off. Loose bolts after shipping, is certainly a thing, across many 3D Printers. always check them all. While my V3 actually blew it's mainboard in 1 day, it was absolutely amazing for that 1 day. I will 100000% make a video on this, but, for now, check this out: ua-cam.com/video/09w4gwR57bI/v-deo.htmlsi=oWgVkv_bGAZ1mleT
Question: what does incorrect belt tension sound like? Just today, my KE has started "growling" when printing and the resulting surface is very rough instead of smooth. Both belts, though, seem to be about trampoline-like when I check their tension, so I don't think it's an X/Y problem. Is there something in the Z drive that I should check/adjust? Thanks.
Oddly enough, GRINDING can be the sound of belts that are too LOOSE, due to them slipping. Or, perhaps printing too fast. Try slowing things down a bit. Could even bring down the Accelleration a touch. Of course, a bad stepper will growl as well.... I just had one on my C6-MAX, but I have not found this to be a common problem. Try to isolated the sounds source. Start with slower speeds, and listen. With the power off, things should move smoothly, and easily, and nothing should feel like a "flat tire". Flat Tire is too tight.
@@3DRundown Thanks for the very prompt reply - that's rare for channel owners! I think I figured it out, after checking belt tension, restarting printer, Orca slicer etc. It's not a mechanical problem - I'm testing the fix again now, but just got one successful print. So far, I've narrowed it down to the "Print By Object" option instead of default "Print By Layer", which I wanted to try for multiple parts on a single plate - I figure quality would be better if the printhead wasn't jumping all over the place each layer. (I'm printing the remixed Pastamatic spool winder, FYI, and it bombed out on the shims when I decided to play with Print By Object) I finally realized that was the only change I'd made between a beautiful part and a cobblestone part that sounded like the printer was spitting nails. It kicked in twice at the same place on the part, at the lower-left of the plate. I reprinted the single part in the middle of the plate with "Print By Layer" restored and it came out beautifully. I've been printing at 150mm/sec so pretty slowly, to ensure a nice finish; that remains unchanged. So the problem seems to be Print By Layer, but I've reset that option to Print By Object with a single part centered on the plate to see if it happens again. So far, the print has gone slightly beyond the point where it failed twice previously, and it looks ok. I'll let it go and if it comes out ok, I'll move the part back down to the lower-left of the plate with Print-By-Object again, to see if it still screws up with everything reset back to the previous problem setup. So far, it's about 1/3 printed and it's a bit "lumpier" and noisier, but doesn't look bad as it did previously. If you want to see a Before/After comparison photo, let me know how to upload or email it to you. Since you have a KE and presumably access to Orca, you could probably duplicate this problem if you wanted to dive into it, but for now I think I can finish my assembly printing by doing it one major part at a time via Print By Layer as usual. I think either Orca is generating glitchy code or the KE has a firmware problem receiving whatever code Orca sends with Print By Object enabled.
I've never actually done print by object. I always do print by layer. With print by object, you have to ensure that the toolhead won't hit the previously finished object. This limits your usable bed space. I do most if my slicing via Bambu Studio, but I could check out the file for you if you'd like. Use a Microsoft One Drive link.
@@3DRundown Just so you know, I was amazed to see that Orca was even smarter than I thought. When I set up for Print By Object, I placed all the parts on the Orca plate, then hit "Arrange all objects on bed" just to group them efficiently. Orca took their heights into account for PBO! I figured I'd have to manually move the tallest stuff forward because I thought about gantry-clearances as you said, but Orca rearranged everything to do that for me automatically. It also took into account all "shadowing" of a taller part adjacent to a smaller one that would otherwise be underneath it, to print the shorter one first - that's a PBO issue as well. Yep, I was impressed. Try it and be amazed; might make a decent video-short topic once the bug is fixed - but it might be unique to some Creality printer firmware and doesn't prang other makes. I'll make a note to send you the problem-part file; it's be interesting to know if Bambu Studio has the same bug, since pretty much all the slicers came from the same roots. If I can figure a workaround or discover it's fixed in an update, I'll be using PBO pretty frequently to maintain print quality while running efficient print sessions.
If they'd stop dooming me to spend all of eternity, shooting setups for new printers, I could actually cover more software stuff, which I would REALLY like to do...
Have I helped you? Help ME continue this channel with some support:
TIP: Click the "THANKS" button
Become a UA-cam Member, by clicking "JOIN"
Support my Patreon: patreon.com/3drundown
Use my Affiliate Links when Shopping:
Amazon Link: amzn.to/2miGQq9
Creality: shrsl.com/424l2
Bambu Lab: shrsl.com/46lky
Sunlu: sovol3d.com?sca_ref=2756755.r8WNQiJdNf
Sovol: www.sunlu.com?sca_ref=4022320.F0sV6y4ht9
Support me via my Course: 3DRUNDOWN.COM
Loved the part where you explained how to tighten the belt at the top. Thanks!!
Thanks for this, sorted out a problem I had that was driving me crazy! I was having a bunch of prints stepping out of alignment and it was screwing up some very long prints. Thanks for all your great tutorials. Can I suggest a “Things to check on your V3 SE” video, like a basic service and settings video would be good for newbies like me.
Thank you. I have been hunting for this all over and finally found your video
Very Welcome. Good to have you. Stick around. Lot's of service stuff here, and lot's more coming.
love you man found this nowhere else
🙌🏼🙌🏼
Good work, I own an SE, this was valuable content, Thanks!
🙏🏼
Hey dude, thank you for this. Nice and straight forward 😁👍🏻
Welcome!
This video was trending at 1/10 for my channel (#1 compared to my last 10 videos, in the same time period since upload), but I had to delete it, do to a massive brain fart, showing the wrong Screw. So... it's back. Replaced with a newly shot segment.
Hey also check your screws on your nozzle. I had an error 2401 hight anomaly they replaced the mainboard and the strain gauge. That didn’t work still got the error. I found an old Reddit post about this code to check the screws they hold the nozzle in. Well i checked them gave the nozzle a wiggle and it fell into my hands. Long story put the screws in and that fixed it
Always check all your hardware after shipping. Especially your hot end
Yep learned that the hard way
Pretty good, thanks
Nice tips!!
Helpful thanks
Thanks for the video
Adjustment replacement screws and belts for Ender 3 V3 SE are almost impossible to find and replace, anyone else experience this?
What caused you to need one?
@@3DRundown I need a belt for the x axis on my ke
CreaLIEty screwed me over on the v3 plus arrived missing bolts on the bottom of the rails that play a part in stabalising the machine (not the support twisty things you install yourself) . I asked them how to tension the belt as there were no instructions before they pointed out to check the part where they were missing. They also said the belt should be fine , so i assume there is no method of tensioning the belt ?
I am always happy to help, but I ask we don't make me participate in a conversation that uses hurtful language toward my friends at Creality. They are PEOPLE just like us, and insulting comments on the internet, make them sad, just like us. I also don't wish to hurt my relationship with them, as they ARE here on my channel. That said, sure, mistake happen. It's possible, the long shipping process, vibrated the bolt loose and off. Loose bolts after shipping, is certainly a thing, across many 3D Printers. always check them all. While my V3 actually blew it's mainboard in 1 day, it was absolutely amazing for that 1 day. I will 100000% make a video on this, but, for now, check this out: ua-cam.com/video/09w4gwR57bI/v-deo.htmlsi=oWgVkv_bGAZ1mleT
Hey, what is the Y axis Timing Belt Pulley Teeth number? please on the creality Ender 3 v3 ke
Great video, straight to the point with relevant information. Thank you, keep it up!
Question: what does incorrect belt tension sound like? Just today, my KE has started "growling" when printing and the resulting surface is very rough instead of smooth. Both belts, though, seem to be about trampoline-like when I check their tension, so I don't think it's an X/Y problem. Is there something in the Z drive that I should check/adjust? Thanks.
Oddly enough, GRINDING can be the sound of belts that are too LOOSE, due to them slipping. Or, perhaps printing too fast. Try slowing things down a bit. Could even bring down the Accelleration a touch. Of course, a bad stepper will growl as well.... I just had one on my C6-MAX, but I have not found this to be a common problem. Try to isolated the sounds source. Start with slower speeds, and listen. With the power off, things should move smoothly, and easily, and nothing should feel like a "flat tire". Flat Tire is too tight.
@@3DRundown Thanks for the very prompt reply - that's rare for channel owners! I think I figured it out, after checking belt tension, restarting printer, Orca slicer etc. It's not a mechanical problem - I'm testing the fix again now, but just got one successful print. So far, I've narrowed it down to the "Print By Object" option instead of default "Print By Layer", which I wanted to try for multiple parts on a single plate - I figure quality would be better if the printhead wasn't jumping all over the place each layer. (I'm printing the remixed Pastamatic spool winder, FYI, and it bombed out on the shims when I decided to play with Print By Object) I finally realized that was the only change I'd made between a beautiful part and a cobblestone part that sounded like the printer was spitting nails. It kicked in twice at the same place on the part, at the lower-left of the plate. I reprinted the single part in the middle of the plate with "Print By Layer" restored and it came out beautifully. I've been printing at 150mm/sec so pretty slowly, to ensure a nice finish; that remains unchanged.
So the problem seems to be Print By Layer, but I've reset that option to Print By Object with a single part centered on the plate to see if it happens again. So far, the print has gone slightly beyond the point where it failed twice previously, and it looks ok. I'll let it go and if it comes out ok, I'll move the part back down to the lower-left of the plate with Print-By-Object again, to see if it still screws up with everything reset back to the previous problem setup. So far, it's about 1/3 printed and it's a bit "lumpier" and noisier, but doesn't look bad as it did previously. If you want to see a Before/After comparison photo, let me know how to upload or email it to you.
Since you have a KE and presumably access to Orca, you could probably duplicate this problem if you wanted to dive into it, but for now I think I can finish my assembly printing by doing it one major part at a time via Print By Layer as usual. I think either Orca is generating glitchy code or the KE has a firmware problem receiving whatever code Orca sends with Print By Object enabled.
I've never actually done print by object. I always do print by layer. With print by object, you have to ensure that the toolhead won't hit the previously finished object. This limits your usable bed space. I do most if my slicing via Bambu Studio, but I could check out the file for you if you'd like. Use a Microsoft One Drive link.
@@3DRundown Just so you know, I was amazed to see that Orca was even smarter than I thought. When I set up for Print By Object, I placed all the parts on the Orca plate, then hit "Arrange all objects on bed" just to group them efficiently. Orca took their heights into account for PBO! I figured I'd have to manually move the tallest stuff forward because I thought about gantry-clearances as you said, but Orca rearranged everything to do that for me automatically. It also took into account all "shadowing" of a taller part adjacent to a smaller one that would otherwise be underneath it, to print the shorter one first - that's a PBO issue as well. Yep, I was impressed. Try it and be amazed; might make a decent video-short topic once the bug is fixed - but it might be unique to some Creality printer firmware and doesn't prang other makes. I'll make a note to send you the problem-part file; it's be interesting to know if Bambu Studio has the same bug, since pretty much all the slicers came from the same roots. If I can figure a workaround or discover it's fixed in an update, I'll be using PBO pretty frequently to maintain print quality while running efficient print sessions.
If they'd stop dooming me to spend all of eternity, shooting setups for new printers, I could actually cover more software stuff, which I would REALLY like to do...
What about the Z axis belt on KE? Looks like there are no screws to tension it.
Same place as the SE.
@@3DRundownX axis is on the right of hotend, Y is on the back of printer but looks like Z axis has no tensioner only synchronization screws…
Ah yes. No tensioner. It's a continuous loop belt, rather than a belt attached at the ends
@@3DRundown probably they though we ain’t gonna need it 🤷♂️. Oh well.
on your Y axis belt that copper colour is that wear? my belt has the same colour and wondering if its something to worry about?
Both these machines are brand new. It's just how they look.
@@3DRundown cheers i thought it might have been something showing from wear so thats a relief
3:11 thank f for that!
Hey, I know that guy.
Lool