Nice work on the frame shortening. The one suggestion I would give if you do another truck in the future. When marking out the cut lines round off the corners and especially the inside corners. I just use a cap off a spray can or roll of masking tape and trace around it. That way they are all the same. The sharp pointed inside corners can lead to cracking. So I avoid sharp corners/inside corners just to be safe. There are a lot of people that don't and never have a issue. But I just don't like to chance it. That is one beefy cab lifter!! I couldn't tell if you had any or not. On top of it just to the out side of each drip rail add a small piece of 2x4 running front to back. That will make sure the cab doesn't slide side to side at all. Keep up the good work! You've got a very cool project there.
I agree and thought the same thing about the Z shape cut. When Ford makes a frame for the super duty trucks they weld the sections together with mig welding robots and use a straight line top to bottom with a big C curve about 1.5" from each edge. 1.5" line C 1.5" line | c |
We were taught to never cut 90 degrees to the long axis of a frame. You are solidly on the right track with the "Z" cut. We did a diagonal cut in our shop, we would typically punch-mark the top flange for reference marks. Next, we'd cut the top flange, then course 45 degrees down and back, and cut the bottom flange. Thank you for the video.
Nice work. I've watched a lot of these frame shortenings on UA-cam. Yours is the first one I agree with, and that is exactly the way I will do mine. Many thanks...keep up the good work. Laus Deo
I like your work and the extra time you take double checking. I would do a kind of zig-zag joint with all rounded corners. That reduces stress risers and makes a really strong joint and you shouldn't need a flitch plate to reinforce it.
From the web: 'The word 'fish' in fish plate derived from the French word 'fiche', which means a peg, 'fiche' is derived from the old French word 'fichier', it has the meaning fasten, therefore fish plate means a plate that can be used to fastening."
You did a nice job on this.Your lucky to have a wife who"s that helpful. Has anyone ever done this conversion by moving the spring hangers forward.Remount them then cut the extra off the back of the frame?
Don't think that would work on this generation because of the kickup in the frame. I have seen that done on older (like 40s) pickups with a straight ladder frame
It's actually called a flitch plate. Some people long ago got lazy mouth and started saying fish plate. But the real word is flitch plate. And its purpose is to stiffen/strengthen a joint or connection or a beam or stucture that is not sufficient by itself. You're welcome.
I don't see a Centerline ran. To know whether the frame is still truly straight or not. I have lengthen and shorten a lot of frames the first thing I always do is pull the string line down the center
I’m getting ready to do this exact mod on my 70 f100. I have a factory shortbed I am using, as opposed to a shortened Longbed. I assume that 1/4” difference will be key for me?! I’m glad you mentioned that… so I need to do exactly like you, right? 16.25” & 3.75”?
NO. Had good penetration from the outside and the reinforcement plate spans both sides of the joint. If I was going to tow with it I would probably sandwich the joint with c channel on the outside.
Did u cut the back of bed? My 75 short bed compared to my 73 longbed differ by only 16 inch? Does that sound right? There for I wouldn’t need to cut the back the 3-1/4? Thanks
Not yet but follow me close here... on a bumpside 67-72 they are different in front and back. On a dentside 73-79 the difference is only on FRONT of the axle.
I would be amazed if this doesn’t crack in those corners over time. The plates were not nearly long enough.. also a cut off wheel works a lot better and lasts a lot longer if you do the opposite of what you said and let it cut its way through the metal… no wonder your cuts were so far off
lets see if u do it by law D.O.T. laws that is just what i thought nope not by the law u must bolt a plate 3 inches past the wields on the side of the frame u can wield on top or bottom without a plate but on the sides, u must bolt a plate to the frame and the bolts must show 3 threads past the nuts or it will crack right by the wields over a few years i had to fix a lot of these builds like this plus if u sell it u are responsible for it and they can blame u for the accident this is y we had D.O.T. inspect all the rigs we wielded on the frame to cover are ass but u do it ur way i will do it my way if u notice most kits have the bolt hole all ready for it and they are set up for 1/2 inch bolt grade 5 must be used aircraft nut is recommended or lock nuts there are reasons for the law like the frame breaking into 2 pieces just the vibrations from the road can break it right by the wields this is what D.O.T. calls an unsafe rig but when u said the right way to do it then u ask for it because this is not the right way to do it by law even if u box the frame u still have to bolt a plate to it by law the law don't say if it is box or not it has to have a plate bolted to it . u need to know D.O.T> laws when u are building a rig like this .same with D.E.Q. laws just like if u are a dealer u can not sell a rig without the pollution system that it came factory with u must put it on it don't have to work but must be there or it is a 250,000 dollar fine to the dealer i have seen 7 dealers shipped closed over this law they took the biss. and fine them 250,000 for it . it pays to know ur laws and i have seen pu's inspected at a scale they flagged them down and had them in the scale for inspection then i seen it being towed off about hr it took y had lunch and watched it all not sure what they had him for but he could not leave with it .
@@cprgarage3206 it does apply if u sell the rig just saying i have seen lots of people say they would never sell it but then they do and u claim this is the right way of doing it i claim by law it is not u could have said this is my way of doing it . and if u don't understand because of spell check so be it this way u can look smarter than me but to use spell check u must care first . i only been doing this for 45 years building show cars and semi's for shows trust me i am the guy u want to know plus i get rigs for free all the time or real cheap could have got u a rust free short box for a few hundred last few i got for free i got one 79 chevy with under 35,000 miles on it in mint condition for free .with the 400 sbc and 400 turbo 100% factory just gave a ls away in a 96 chevy pu just needed the trans rebuilt very clean truck i know were a long line of 67/72 fords are just sitting most are rust free can get them for 200 to 400 a pu with engines in them some with the 390 in it i live in oregon if u are interested they have a sweet 65 for cheap
@@melissaweidman3326 I don't build rigs to sell. Not sure where you live but I live in America and DOT only has jurisdiction over commercial motor vehicles. They have zero say over what private citizens do to their own vehicles.
@@cprgarage3206 DOT has authority over anything on the road just like a truck scale they can stop anyone and write them a ticket u did not know this every car built new has to go through inspection just like if u build a new trailer u have to have the wields inspected to get a title for it just the factory has a guy there from DOT to inspect them
@@melissaweidman3326 not in Montana they don't. Motor Carrier Services is the enforcement arm of DOT only has jurisdiction over commercially used vehicles. I personally know two retired MCS patrol officers and I also have good knowledge of jurisdictional duties in my state thanks. Again your strawman argument has nothing to do with me. If you don't like don't watch! Definitely don't watch the newer episode where I cut the whole front cradle out it might trigger you! I'll let you know when it cracks apart, don't hold your breath! The sky is falling! And that is not true for new trailers in MT only the VIN is inpected. I perform VIN inspections on new trailers and have firsthand knowledge of many of the things you are spouting off about.
Nice work on the frame shortening. The one suggestion I would give if you do another truck in the future. When marking out the cut lines round off the corners and especially the inside corners. I just use a cap off a spray can or roll of masking tape and trace around it. That way they are all the same. The sharp pointed inside corners can lead to cracking. So I avoid sharp corners/inside corners just to be safe. There are a lot of people that don't and never have a issue. But I just don't like to chance it.
That is one beefy cab lifter!! I couldn't tell if you had any or not. On top of it just to the out side of each drip rail add a small piece of 2x4 running front to back. That will make sure the cab doesn't slide side to side at all.
Keep up the good work! You've got a very cool project there.
Nice! I think I will shorten it a bit as it's too long
I agree and thought the same thing about the Z shape cut.
When Ford makes a frame for the super duty trucks they weld the sections together with mig welding robots and use a straight line top to bottom with a big C curve about 1.5" from each edge.
1.5" line
C
1.5" line
|
c
|
😂 “living right with Jesus.”
Well done brother, glad you’re on track!
Thanks for recording your efforts
We were taught to never cut 90 degrees to the long axis of a frame. You are solidly on the right track with the "Z" cut. We did a diagonal cut in our shop, we would typically punch-mark the top flange for reference marks. Next, we'd cut the top flange, then course 45 degrees down and back, and cut the bottom flange. Thank you for the video.
Nice work. I've watched a lot of these frame shortenings on UA-cam. Yours is the first one I agree with, and that is exactly the way I will do mine. Many thanks...keep up the good work. Laus Deo
I applaud working in an attached garage it seems. I'm building a 62 Falcon in mine! Now I have to go kill time watching your vids!
That's how the working class gets it done!
Outstanding, well done so far.
I like your work and the extra time you take double checking. I would do a kind of zig-zag joint with all rounded corners. That reduces stress risers and makes a really strong joint and you shouldn't need a flitch plate to reinforce it.
Just found your project. Definitely like your video and process a bit better that 330s. (I had noticed the same issue you did, on his too)
Nice work mister.
From the web: 'The word 'fish' in fish plate derived from the French word 'fiche', which means a peg, 'fiche' is derived from the old French word 'fichier', it has the meaning fasten, therefore fish plate means a plate that can be used to fastening."
You did a nice job on this.Your lucky to have a wife who"s that helpful. Has anyone ever done this conversion by moving the spring hangers forward.Remount them then cut the extra off the back of the frame?
Don't think that would work on this generation because of the kickup in the frame. I have seen that done on older (like 40s) pickups with a straight ladder frame
It's actually called a flitch plate. Some people long ago got lazy mouth and started saying fish plate. But the real word is flitch plate. And its purpose is to stiffen/strengthen a joint or connection or a beam or stucture that is not sufficient by itself. You're welcome.
Awesome work!
I don't see a Centerline ran. To know whether the frame is still truly straight or not. I have lengthen and shorten a lot of frames the first thing I always do is pull the string line down the center
Damn it, I looked straight at the arc...
I’m getting ready to do this exact mod on my 70 f100. I have a factory shortbed I am using, as opposed to a shortened Longbed. I assume that 1/4” difference will be key for me?! I’m glad you mentioned that… so I need to do exactly like you, right? 16.25” & 3.75”?
Yep that is the factory measurements. There us a chassis diagram on Ford Truck enthusiasts website if you search
@@cprgarage3206 Sweet! Thanks. That should allow for an OEM shortbed to line right up👍🏽
Not a tee square its a combination square ?
Did you weld the back of the frame under the plates
NO. Had good penetration from the outside and the reinforcement plate spans both sides of the joint. If I was going to tow with it I would probably sandwich the joint with c channel on the outside.
Thanku for the info, I just subd!
That joint type is left over from connecting wood beams .
It isn't nessary if you actually know how to weld !!!
ua-cam.com/video/mtwDvFTfBn8/v-deo.html
I think they use the name fish plate because it's a plate with two fish heads on each side or shaped like a football. I'm probably 100% wrong.
Perfect zo zou ik het ook doen 😁
Did u cut the back of bed? My 75 short bed compared to my 73 longbed differ by only 16 inch? Does that sound right? There for I wouldn’t need to cut the back the 3-1/4? Thanks
Not yet but follow me close here... on a bumpside 67-72 they are different in front and back. On a dentside 73-79 the difference is only on FRONT of the axle.
@@cprgarage3206 exactly what I have and wanted to know as well thanks man.
What happened with the crown Vic full frame swap on the 69 F100?
Just the front end. Episode just came out last week on it
I thought I dosed off or something, I started watching all the episodes from the 69 and then your installing front end! Thanks great show!
I think is easier to buy a frame & short bed
I would be amazed if this doesn’t crack in those corners over time. The plates were not nearly long enough.. also a cut off wheel works a lot better and lasts a lot longer if you do the opposite of what you said and let it cut its way through the metal… no wonder your cuts were so far off
Hackety hack hack hack.
lets see if u do it by law D.O.T. laws that is just what i thought nope not by the law u must bolt a plate 3 inches past the wields on the side of the frame u can wield on top or bottom without a plate but on the sides, u must bolt a plate to the frame and the bolts must show 3 threads past the nuts or it will crack right by the wields over a few years i had to fix a lot of these builds like this plus if u sell it u are responsible for it and they can blame u for the accident this is y we had D.O.T. inspect all the rigs we wielded on the frame to cover are ass but u do it ur way i will do it my way if u notice most kits have the bolt hole all ready for it and they are set up for 1/2 inch bolt grade 5 must be used aircraft nut is recommended or lock nuts there are reasons for the law like the frame breaking into 2 pieces just the vibrations from the road can break it right by the wields this is what D.O.T. calls an unsafe rig but when u said the right way to do it then u ask for it because this is not the right way to do it by law even if u box the frame u still have to bolt a plate to it by law the law don't say if it is box or not it has to have a plate bolted to it . u need to know D.O.T> laws when u are building a rig like this .same with D.E.Q. laws just like if u are a dealer u can not sell a rig without the pollution system that it came factory with u must put it on it don't have to work but must be there or it is a 250,000 dollar fine to the dealer i have seen 7 dealers shipped closed over this law they took the biss. and fine them 250,000 for it . it pays to know ur laws and i have seen pu's inspected at a scale they flagged them down and had them in the scale for inspection then i seen it being towed off about hr it took y had lunch and watched it all not sure what they had him for but he could not leave with it .
Ok... none of that applies to me whatsoever building my personal pickup in my garage. Thanks though, look into spell check.
@@cprgarage3206 it does apply if u sell the rig just saying i have seen lots of people say they would never sell it but then they do and u claim this is the right way of doing it i claim by law it is not u could have said this is my way of doing it . and if u don't understand because of spell check so be it this way u can look smarter than me but to use spell check u must care first . i only been doing this for 45 years building show cars and semi's for shows trust me i am the guy u want to know plus i get rigs for free all the time or real cheap could have got u a rust free short box for a few hundred last few i got for free i got one 79 chevy with under 35,000 miles on it in mint condition for free .with the 400 sbc and 400 turbo 100% factory just gave a ls away in a 96 chevy pu just needed the trans rebuilt very clean truck i know were a long line of 67/72 fords are just sitting most are rust free can get them for 200 to 400 a pu with engines in them some with the 390 in it i live in oregon if u are interested they have a sweet 65 for cheap
@@melissaweidman3326 I don't build rigs to sell. Not sure where you live but I live in America and DOT only has jurisdiction over commercial motor vehicles. They have zero say over what private citizens do to their own vehicles.
@@cprgarage3206 DOT has authority over anything on the road just like a truck scale they can stop anyone and write them a ticket u did not know this every car built new has to go through inspection just like if u build a new trailer u have to have the wields inspected to get a title for it just the factory has a guy there from DOT to inspect them
@@melissaweidman3326 not in Montana they don't. Motor Carrier Services is the enforcement arm of DOT only has jurisdiction over commercially used vehicles. I personally know two retired MCS patrol officers and I also have good knowledge of jurisdictional duties in my state thanks. Again your strawman argument has nothing to do with me. If you don't like don't watch! Definitely don't watch the newer episode where I cut the whole front cradle out it might trigger you!
I'll let you know when it cracks apart, don't hold your breath! The sky is falling!
And that is not true for new trailers in MT only the VIN is inpected. I perform VIN inspections on new trailers and have firsthand knowledge of many of the things you are spouting off about.
Please! Don't use JESUS'S NAME so loosely. Great Video! I may do this to my truck