I have this station, so far it's worked just fine for me. In the holder I just stuffed a $1 steel scrubber sponge and frayed it out. As for the tip, I ordered a set of the matching Hakko 936 soldering tips
Got an 852D+ on Amazon for $49 Pros- fast, digital, hot air for shrink tube, came with tips and air nozzles Quadelicious. Cons- shorter cords, I move the machine, Light wt. holder, added a couple 1/2 sockets, Hums even when turned off, unplug it after use. One of the best tools to have for your hobby. Love it, already got my moneys worth.
I bought one of these after I went to Jaycar to replace my broken standard 240 volt iron. The Jaycar replacement $65. This one cost around $16. This HobbyKing soldering station is AWESOME for the price. And I bought 6 different tips for $8. Put a weight on the bottom of the holder and you have yourself a GREAT, cheap soldering iron. Another great recommendation Bruce.
5:24 since we were discussing leaded solder just the other day, it might be worth pointing out that these particles are very high in lead. So you might want to take proper precautions. No food / no drink / clean your hands / make sure to dispose of it so that wind/agitation won't spread it,... Of course these are good ideas with any workshop environment, but lead really isn't very nice.
Very good review. I have been running this Soldering station for more than a year and the thing it great. Ya it is made to a price but for $18 the thing is amazing. It has allowed a student with very little money to have a really good soldering iron and not have to worry about it. Just get some extra tips, they are super cheap. I have made numerous CP antennas as well as a many other things on it. I would highly suggest it to anyone getting into the hobby or short on cash. It is definitely not the best but it is probably the best soldering station for under $50.
The plastic threads on the iron below the tip screw mount will soften from heat and not hold over time. Maybe 6 months of regular use. I have also had the irons on that model (907A I believe) fail frequently. They can be found for about 11 USD but always buy 2 or 3 at a time as they come with bad boards.
I purchased one of these out of curiosity since it was cheaper than any iron I could get in AU. I have this sitting next to my Royal Iron and I use both. After 2 years it still works :D Still prefer my Royal but man this is really good value
I've been using mine for roughly 3 years, without problems. You need to purchase a tip set. I suggest the 10 piece one from Banggood for around $8. You need to clean them in some acid flux paste when they are new, or they will not tin properly. So long as you clean them in some acid flux paste, they work great. Use a tub of acid paste from the plumbing section. Heat the tip to around 300C, plunge it fully into the paste, and wipe clean on a moist sponge. Repeat a couple of times, until the tip will take a complete tinning.
I have one of these and just love it. (I'm a hobbyist). Agree with the bit bit (LOL) I replaced the original bit immediately. One tip I would give is : I have glued the iron holder to the top of the control station. Makes it rock solid and takes up far less space on my bench
A few things, these irons (most irons) run on 24vDC output with a temperature feedback loop as mentioned. You can get half decent replacement tips off e-bay for a few bucks for a selection (search for Hako), the handpieces are also available off ebay for 4-5 bucks. I recent built a current limited PWM lipo powered iron for work as I was sick of butane irons failing in the field. Tips seem to hold up well even at high heat when tinned up well, no pitting or burning as yet after about 5hrs run time. Great vid!
I've been running one of these for 2 - 1/2 years now -- still going strong! I had to calibrate the temperature right off (it was low) and I did replace the tips (cheap to find on ebay).
Bought this one yesterday and the first thing i did was to tead it down. What I saw, I did not like but I only paid 25 GBP for it so I could not complain. THe PCB has undergone some major improvements since this video was posted but the heatsink was removed and the low ac voltage for the controller power has also become a plug instead of being soldered directly to the pcb.The fuse pcb hoever is exactly the same and the cables are about to break due to the bend and poor quality. I will be repairing this stuff and probably stick a heatsink on the triac myself but I believe it will do the job done pretty well tbh.
I've had a 936 50W for over 6 months now and it's been great, I only wish I had a bigger unit when I change out connectors (XT60) on 10AWG cable. I can get it done with the 936 and bigger tips but more power would be nice sometimes.. Thanks for the heads up on the possible need for hot glue on the switch wire inside, I'll check on that shortly.
i used to have a horrible time and really did not enjoy soldering. I was on one of those hobby irons with no controls, just straight plug. Than i upgraded to a similar style model and i really enjoy soldering now.
I actually bought 3 of the cheapies.... One for myself, one for my son and an extra for parts, I also ordered 3 extra "irons" for spares, I never even got billed for the extra irons.... I bought a couple of packs of 10 tips, most expensive part of iron, Hakko tips and I use the medium chisel tip for 90%+ of rc work. 60%-40% or 63%-37% which flows even better.... no acid core, no tin, neither work, silver needs to much heat can damage fragile boards like transmitters and receivers. I also use .4mm diameter. long learning curve for me, I'm nearly 70 and not as steady and eyesight not to good..... but I have fun.... Thanks,
Not sure why you are hating on the pin tip. Every tip type has a function and purpose. I have the same station and it actually came with a set of 5 different tips beside the pin tip. I solder professionally here and use the pin tip most of the time as it is capable of concentrating the heat into a small point which saves heat damaging the boards and components. The exception is when working on endothermic devices such as rectifiers or sinked items where I would use a larger chisel tip for sure so the heat is distributed over the surfaces to be manipulated. I have been very happy with this unit except that the power switch is on the back right side so I often forget to turn it off. I will be moving it to the front asap.
I've had my Hakko 888 for a long time - and I never knew the bottom of the holder popped off. Should see all the junk that just came out of it! Cheers Bruce.
I actually have a real Hakko 936 which I absolutely love to death so this video really interested me... I have to say wow! The phrase "you get what you pay for" really rings true. Thanks for reviewing this, you probably saved a lot of people money better spent elsewhere in the hobby!
Also, if you have a dedicated work space it is a very good idea to have equipment such as soldering stations on a circuit interrupt timer of one sort or another. I've got a analog 2hr timer that works great but they make all sorts of surge protector power strips with integrated timers....just make sure it is rated with wiggle room for the watts you will be pulling. Very easy to get distracted and walk away only to find the next day your soldering station was on the whole time.
just got mine from hobbyking, replaced the tip, and added some lead weight to the stand base. works great, very happy with it. thanks for the review Bruce.
the big hole in the base, I inserted a copper scour pad In it, it cleans the tip when I store it. a few minor mods based on Bruce's grumbles made this a very good unit
Thanks for the review Bruce I was thinking about buying this product but wasnt sure about it You have now confirmed its ok for the price and Im looking forward to happy soldering regards Hans
I just ordered one of the newest of these 936D+ stations and im going to silicone that iron holder to a heavy ceramic tile and stick some non-skid feet on the bottom. The weight and feet will fix the light plastic issues with it moving around too easily.
Very good video.I bought a Hakko FX888 after your review of it and have been very pleased with it. Mine has a digital readout. Side thought if you stab someone with that small tip make sure it is on.
Base-wise, it seems a simple fix of stuffing a brillo pad into the receptacle and glueing a piece of lead or a cheap magnet inside of the unit would work just fine. I'm not inclined to complain about needing to spend five minutes and a couple of dollars modding the base when the station costs only $30, yet offers very good performance for a hobbyist.
My first soldering Iron was Yahui, the handles kept breaking and hard to find the correct handles... Moved onto a Hakko. Was going to go for a Weller, but heard good things about Hakko No regrets at all best iron out.
Looks like a re-branded Aoyue. I've been using an Ayoue 937+ for the past four years with no problems. Originally bought as a stop gap measure I've had no reason to replace it! It's a very reliable station
This is not a rebranded Aoyue. The only thing they have in common is that they are both clones of Hakko models that have been out of production for a decade or more, and they accept compatible replacement parts across each other. Aoyue gives you better cables, better fit and finish, more carefully assembled units, and certifications.
My hobbyking soldering iron (same as in the video) only lasted a couple of uses, the iron, mostly made from plastic, melted and broke around the tip. Anyone know where I can purchase a better quality replacement iron that will fit the plug fitting?
Hey Bruce, I just got my zmr250 built but in the openpilot setup the flight mode switch isn't being recognized, the transmitter I'm using is the flysky-i6, thanks!
I have the same Yinhua soldering station it works amazing, but mine has a digital temperature display on it. I actually like the small soldering tips on the Yinhua better for really small circuit joints that i could not do with the other soldering tips.
As mentioned in video there are a ton of different brands that have copied the original Hakko 936...which was a well made beast of a machine. When searching eBay I'd personally rather buy a used original Hakko than a new generic "knock off". Sold my 936 when I got the new fx888...wish I had kept it, comes in handy to have two hot irons with different tips sometimes.
9 років тому
Nice. Thanks Bruce. $15 from HK but $30 to ship. Almost the same total price from Banggood then plus I can get the tips from them. Still handy to know.
I bought my Hakko, about a year ago and soldering has never been the same. I had a 15/30 watt mains iron that was a piece of junk and I will never go back. remember, you get what you pay for!!!
Nice review of the product. Thank you. About soldering: are there any rules of thumb about which temperature to use in specific situations now you can regulate this with the station?
You forgot to mention that the Hakko soldering stand is made out of metal and ceramic while the Ylhua stand is mostly plastic. I find that my Hakko FX888D can handle up to 4mm bullet connectors but has trouble with 5mm and beyond that I have to use a butane pen torch. Tinning 8 AWG wire with the Hakko is basically impossible and for that I use an heavy duty Weller soldering gun that was probably made in the 1950's (still had the original box) that I got from a pawn shop for $15
I have the real HAKKO 936+ ESD. It was a gift from my father, and is hands down the best soldering iron I have ever owned. I much prefer it to your 888. Dave Jones at EEVBlog compares the real one to the fake if you want to see the two side by side.
Bruce... when you first start up a new iron. Is there a procedure into prepping a new tip? I have heard it's a good idea to burn off and then pre-tin the new tip. Key me know if this is fact our fiction. thanks
Awesome review! I got a Yihua 898D+ which is about the same, but digital yep weather change, and a hot air gun as well for $60 on eBay. I think you have this one too? I LOVE it!
I just bought one too, can't beat it for the price and it works great! The seller I bought mine from had sold over 1400 of them with good feedback. Would definitely recommend it to anyone looking to buy a good soldering and hot air station.
ive got one of these cheap stations, the ones that plug directly into the wall are miles better and the butane ones as well... the station takes too long too heat up and i found that when i tried to solder to deans or xt60 i would melt the connector before i melted the solder, i dont have that issue with the direct into the wall one or the butane one. i did replace the tip so that's not the issue.
+CAIDMASTEROFPYRO If you melt the plastic before the solder, it means that for whatever reason you don't get the heat into the wire fast enough. 60W (if they don't cheat on the numbers) should be enough for this kind of solderjob. It's most likely not the fault of the station, but how it is used. Could be a tip too small, an oxidized/worn tip or temperature set too low (maybe partly fault of the station, because the set temperature and real temperature don't match).
Send it to me. Pure tin solder is good for holding parts like wire landing gear much stronger, along with other structural componenets. You just use MORE HEAT, LOTS more and gobs of flux. Works for me. Just needs more heat and technique. I apply resin to the part and load the iron with melted solder. The heat transfer is instant and makes a far better joint. I don't use it for wiring. But even for wiring with 60/40, I apply the resin to the part and load the iron with melted solder. If there's insufficient solder, NOW apply more solder to the joint. Neer mind what the "book" says, the books are wrong.
+hopeso I apply resin to the part and load the iron with melted solder. The heat transfer is instant and makes a far better joint. I don't use it for wiring. But even for wiring with 60/40, I apply the resin to the part and load the iron with melted solder. If there's insufficient solder, NOW apply more solder to the joint. Neer mind what the "book" says, the books are wrong.
Received my HobbyKing 936 Soldering Station today after reading your review. The first thing I did was take the top off and found the same problems with the wires at the ON/OFF switch. So I heated up the old hot glue gun and corrected that problem. You said that you can use the tips for a Hokka Soldering Station. I went to the Hokka site and there is a mess of different tips for different pencils. Could you list the part numbers of the 2 you recommend? Thank You Randy
I have used the Yihua 936 for the last couple of years and it's better than anything I have ever tired. That being said I tried a el-cheapo soldering iron from Radio Shack and a dual-temp soldering iron from Home Depot so not much to compare to really.
I have one and its great! Well I used to work with a soldering hammer(literally it had a 1cm wide tip) so anything is better what I had but I am inpressed. The knob isnt that bad heating is good the only thing is that it has plastic stand so you might get some of that on your iron. The sponge didnt dry for 2 days so thats good. Can you complain for 15$?
I think they do think about supplying irons with ... well ... ridiculous tips. And they also sell them with solder suckers. They're fun but I find useless compared to braid. Questions for you Bruce, doesn't flux have a limited shelf life? As Tramsgar asked, maybe some of your knowledge on flux could be shared ... please. Also, was it you that said "First rule of soldering, if it smells like chicken you're doing it wrong"? P.S. It is also nice to hear "soldering" pronounced correctly. Thanks Bruce.
I really like mine. Beats a crappy 30w stick. But if you need a better iron than this you probably want a hot air rework station, which is on my list lol.
great video. You know so much... ;) I would like to ask what the different situations for using different flux pens would be? Wire guage? cables vs circuit board (Naze32)? Thank you sir.
Bruce any idea where you can get decent elements from for these types of irons or am I best just spending the extra and getting the hakko 123 element? Regards
+Dave Webster I would expect that it's probably almost cheaper to buy an entire new handpiece than an element these days. I don't know who sells the parts but eBay would be a good place to start.
Thanks Bruce,been using this iron for a couple years now,love it!Will any tip manufacturer work?does it just screw off?could you point me where to get the good tips?thanks
i plan to get one of these , but what i want to do is have all silicon soldering wand cable , like on original hakko , for nicer feel and better handling . But i cant find anyone selling those , and to make stuff harder its not just 2 wires in there , theres element heater , temperature sensor ,and grounding , i guess so at least 5 wires . Anyone has any ideas what to do
You recommend hot glue for wire repairs as such...have you/do you recommend silicon caulk as well as or being better, such as outdoor clear silicon caulk?
+brun. ok You have to be careful with silicone caulking because some of it has acetic acid in it -- which will rot your wires and the vapor will cause other corrosion issues. Hot glue is safe and cheap.
Holy shit you talk fast... That was like an hour of content packed into 13 minutes. Combined with your sexy accent (no homo) and stabbing comment, I'd say you definitely earned a thumbs-up. I'd like to know your recommendations on solder though.
I bought a yihua brand soldering iron from an Australian ebay merchant (I live in Australia). I had to resolder the socket to the main pcb using my childhood soldering iron from 20 years ago when I was 15yo. The yihua iron holder is bullshit. if you turn the iron right up, it will melt the plastic. I use a separate soldering iron holder I already had. I still have the stand that came with the soldering iron station but I don't use it. I have a chisel tip which is fine. And I do occasionally use the highly acute conical tip. If I had more money, I'd still buy a hako or other higher quality iron, even though my yihua is working and is hot enough to solder xt60 plugs and 4mm bullets.
The wonderful thing about the 936 is the price is so low (I paid $18 too and shipping only added 2 bucks to an order) you can have 4 stacked together using double sided tape with different tips for the job you are doing. Some of the cheap tips on EBay (10 for $5) are surprisingly well made but the ones I received were too loose (made by CERN?) to make good internal contact with the heating element... but using some copper solder wick makes the contact tight so for $59 US dollars you can have 3 tips ready to go and 7 other tips... 18 bucks more and you have 4... but only 6 tips left over. Darn...;-)
Eighteen bucks? Damn, that's cheaper than a big roll of decent solder. I'll have to recommend this station to the guys at the club who bodge solder with those cheap pencil irons from Jaycar or wherever - which may cost more than this station, certainly if they buy two or three for different jobs.
Bought one of these and after only a few times of use, it stopped working! the unit powers on but it doesn't heat anymore, it´s junk if you ask me :( anyway it´s not your fault so thumbs up for the video! :D
+Hewey19 Depends on what I'm soldering but most of the time I have it set pretty close to 350-360 deg C but different solders require different temp settings.
+Oscar Thorpe Flux is used to stop the solder and the items you're soldering from oxidising. When you heat stuff up it tends to react with the oxygen in the air and create oxides on the surface. You can't solder an oxide so this thin layer interferes with the soldering process by stopping the solder from alloying with the copper or other metals you're joining. The flux acts to inhibit (and even dissolve) that oxide layer and this ensure a good reliable joint. You will also find that once the flux built into the solder boils/burns off, the solder will become "stale" and won't flow smoothly. The addition of a little flux will make it flow nicely again. Check out the soldering basics video on this channel for a demonstration of that.
I got one three or four years ago and loved it. I bought another just after as a spare. The handset fell apart after a couple of years so I took the one from the spare. Would be good if you could just buy the handset. Anyone tried...?
+Fug Bucker May have answered my own question. just found these that look like they will fit...www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-pin-New-Soldering-Station-Iron-Handle-for-HAKKO-907-ESD-907-936-937-928-926-/151623929022
Hey, you never tested it. Not even turned it on. If they ship with such a small tip I would be worried that they are not putting out enough power to maintain the heat or reach temperature as quickly as the Haiko. I would think you have a infrared temperature gun that can at least give a comparative temperature to the Haiko. And try a side by side melting of some silver solder and see if it has the guts to do the job.
I ended up buying the 937D+, and found my way back here to see if I should upgrade to the Hakko. I'm sorry for my comment on the looks. I'm going to try better Cardas wire, and see how I do before I upgrade. This vid reminds me that I have a nice budget unit. It IS annoying like you said though!
Nice review Bruce. The main power wires must be crimped not soldered. Not a good product. A bit how you do it, less safe. If you want to buy a soldering station. Buy one from element 14 or RS. They have nice 50W and 80W stations for less then $150,- and you will have a lifetime fun soldering. If you want the best of the best buy a Weller WS81. A 80W soldering station that can handle XT60 and solder even SMD parts on a PCB. Lots of parts and soldering iron tips.
Remember that this soldering station costs about $15, that's 1/10th of the cost of the ones you are recommending. of course a $150 is going to be better, bit for the price this yihua one is pretty good.
+Elwin van der Meer, But I am a little worried about the main wire connection. It can come lose in time and do horrible things. Bruce mansion this also in his review.
Hi Bruce, what do you think of this adjustable soldering iron? Or rather this type of iron that has temperature regulation in the handle? www.banggood.com/60W-220V-Electric-Adjustable-Temperature-Welding-Solder-Soldering-Iron-p-87374.html BTW I have(or had) the Yihua936 and the heating element burned through and broke after a few months.
Awesome review . Have been using this iron for 4 Years. Zero issues. I put some velcro on the bottom to stop it sliding around.
I have this station, so far it's worked just fine for me. In the holder I just stuffed a $1 steel scrubber sponge and frayed it out. As for the tip, I ordered a set of the matching Hakko 936 soldering tips
Got an 852D+ on Amazon for $49 Pros- fast, digital, hot air for shrink tube, came with tips and air nozzles Quadelicious. Cons- shorter cords, I move the machine, Light wt. holder, added a couple 1/2 sockets, Hums even when turned off, unplug it after use.
One of the best tools to have for your hobby. Love it, already got my moneys worth.
I bought one of these after I went to Jaycar to replace my broken standard 240 volt iron. The Jaycar replacement $65. This one cost around $16.
This HobbyKing soldering station is AWESOME for the price. And I bought 6 different tips for $8. Put a weight on the bottom of the holder and you have yourself a GREAT, cheap soldering iron.
Another great recommendation Bruce.
5:24 since we were discussing leaded solder just the other day, it might be worth pointing out that these particles are very high in lead. So you might want to take proper precautions. No food / no drink / clean your hands / make sure to dispose of it so that wind/agitation won't spread it,... Of course these are good ideas with any workshop environment, but lead really isn't very nice.
Very good review. I have been running this Soldering station for more than a year and the thing it great. Ya it is made to a price but for $18 the thing is amazing. It has allowed a student with very little money to have a really good soldering iron and not have to worry about it. Just get some extra tips, they are super cheap. I have made numerous CP antennas as well as a many other things on it. I would highly suggest it to anyone getting into the hobby or short on cash. It is definitely not the best but it is probably the best soldering station for under $50.
+Wyll Surf Air Where do you get the tips?
+odinata ebay. look up hako 936 tips.
+Wyll Surf Air Hobbyking have tip sets cheap now, good order filler.
Thanks, Bruce! I'd like it very much if you took a quick detour to the subject of flux types.
The plastic threads on the iron below the tip screw mount will soften from heat and not hold over time. Maybe 6 months of regular use. I have also had the irons on that model (907A I believe) fail frequently. They can be found for about 11 USD but always buy 2 or 3 at a time as they come with bad boards.
Hiway what I don't understand
I purchased one of these out of curiosity since it was cheaper than any iron I could get in AU. I have this sitting next to my Royal Iron and I use both. After 2 years it still works :D Still prefer my Royal but man this is really good value
I've been using mine for roughly 3 years, without problems. You need to purchase a tip set. I suggest the 10 piece one from Banggood for around $8. You need to clean them in some acid flux paste when they are new, or they will not tin properly. So long as you clean them in some acid flux paste, they work great. Use a tub of acid paste from the plumbing section. Heat the tip to around 300C, plunge it fully into the paste, and wipe clean on a moist sponge. Repeat a couple of times, until the tip will take a complete tinning.
I've been using one of these soldering stations for over a year and it works well. Heats quickly and has never caused an issue.
I have one of these and just love it. (I'm a hobbyist). Agree with the bit bit (LOL) I replaced the original bit immediately.
One tip I would give is : I have glued the iron holder to the top of the control station. Makes it rock solid and takes up far less space on my bench
A few things, these irons (most irons) run on 24vDC output with a temperature feedback loop as mentioned.
You can get half decent replacement tips off e-bay for a few bucks for a selection (search for Hako), the handpieces are also available off ebay for 4-5 bucks.
I recent built a current limited PWM lipo powered iron for work as I was sick of butane irons failing in the field. Tips seem to hold up well even at high heat when tinned up well, no pitting or burning as yet after about 5hrs run time.
Great vid!
I've been running one of these for 2 - 1/2 years now -- still going strong! I had to calibrate the temperature right off (it was low) and I did replace the tips (cheap to find on ebay).
Bought this one yesterday and the first thing i did was to tead it down. What I saw, I did not like but I only paid 25 GBP for it so I could not complain. THe PCB has undergone some major improvements since this video was posted but the heatsink was removed and the low ac voltage for the controller power has also become a plug instead of being soldered directly to the pcb.The fuse pcb hoever is exactly the same and the cables are about to break due to the bend and poor quality. I will be repairing this stuff and probably stick a heatsink on the triac myself but I believe it will do the job done pretty well tbh.
I've had a 936 50W for over 6 months now and it's been great, I only wish I had a bigger unit when I change out connectors (XT60) on 10AWG cable. I can get it done with the 936 and bigger tips but more power would be nice sometimes..
Thanks for the heads up on the possible need for hot glue on the switch wire inside, I'll check on that shortly.
i used to have a horrible time and really did not enjoy soldering. I was on one of those hobby irons with no controls, just straight plug. Than i upgraded to a similar style model and i really enjoy soldering now.
I actually bought 3 of the cheapies.... One for myself, one for my son and an extra for parts, I also ordered 3 extra "irons" for spares, I never even got billed for the extra irons.... I bought a couple of packs of 10 tips, most expensive part of iron, Hakko tips and I use the medium chisel tip for 90%+ of rc work. 60%-40% or 63%-37% which flows even better.... no acid core, no tin, neither work, silver needs to much heat can damage fragile boards like transmitters and receivers. I also use .4mm diameter. long learning curve for me, I'm nearly 70 and not as steady and eyesight not to good..... but I have fun.... Thanks,
Not sure why you are hating on the pin tip. Every tip type has a function and purpose. I have the same station and it actually came with a set of 5 different tips beside the pin tip. I solder professionally here and use the pin tip most of the time as it is capable of concentrating the heat into a small point which saves heat damaging the boards and components. The exception is when working on endothermic devices such as rectifiers or sinked items where I would use a larger chisel tip for sure so the heat is distributed over the surfaces to be manipulated.
I have been very happy with this unit except that the power switch is on the back right side so I often forget to turn it off. I will be moving it to the front asap.
my YiHua 936 is still going strong after a year - really good value solder station :)
I've had my Hakko 888 for a long time - and I never knew the bottom of the holder popped off. Should see all the junk that just came out of it! Cheers Bruce.
I actually have a real Hakko 936 which I absolutely love to death so this video really interested me... I have to say wow! The phrase "you get what you pay for" really rings true. Thanks for reviewing this, you probably saved a lot of people money better spent elsewhere in the hobby!
Also, if you have a dedicated work space it is a very good idea to have equipment such as soldering stations on a circuit interrupt timer of one sort or another. I've got a analog 2hr timer that works great but they make all sorts of surge protector power strips with integrated timers....just make sure it is rated with wiggle room for the watts you will be pulling. Very easy to get distracted and walk away only to find the next day your soldering station was on the whole time.
just got mine from hobbyking, replaced the tip, and added some lead weight to the stand base. works great, very happy with it. thanks for the review Bruce.
the big hole in the base, I inserted a copper scour pad In it, it cleans the tip when I store it. a few minor mods based on Bruce's grumbles made this a very good unit
Thanks for the review Bruce
I was thinking about buying this product but wasnt sure about it
You have now confirmed its ok for the price and Im looking forward to happy soldering
regards
Hans
Ilike this soldering station a lot - using it now for some years I'm very happy with the little tip for soldering servo wires!
I just ordered one of the newest of these 936D+ stations and im going to silicone that iron holder to a heavy ceramic tile and stick some non-skid feet on the bottom. The weight and feet will fix the light plastic issues with it moving around too easily.
Very good video.I bought a Hakko FX888 after your review of it and have been very pleased with it. Mine has a digital readout. Side thought if you stab someone with that small tip make sure it is on.
Blue is not the main phase input (11:50). If this is wired correctly, blue will be neutral. Phase is red.
Base-wise, it seems a simple fix of stuffing a brillo pad into the receptacle and glueing a piece of lead or a cheap magnet inside of the unit would work just fine.
I'm not inclined to complain about needing to spend five minutes and a couple of dollars modding the base when the station costs only $30, yet offers very good performance for a hobbyist.
I have one of these as well, couldn't pass it up really. Aside from the somewhat small tip, it has worked quite well.
My first soldering Iron was Yahui, the handles kept breaking and hard to find the correct handles...
Moved onto a Hakko.
Was going to go for a Weller, but heard good things about Hakko No regrets at all best iron out.
Looks like a re-branded Aoyue. I've been using an Ayoue 937+ for the past four years with no problems.
Originally bought as a stop gap measure I've had no reason to replace it! It's a very reliable station
This is not a rebranded Aoyue. The only thing they have in common is that they are both clones of Hakko models that have been out of production for a decade or more, and they accept compatible replacement parts across each other. Aoyue gives you better cables, better fit and finish, more carefully assembled units, and certifications.
Siana Gearz good job I use an ayoue then!
My hobbyking soldering iron (same as in the video) only lasted a couple of uses, the iron, mostly made from plastic, melted and broke around the tip. Anyone know where I can purchase a better quality replacement iron that will fit the plug fitting?
Hey Bruce, I just got my zmr250 built but in the openpilot setup the flight mode switch isn't being recognized, the transmitter I'm using is the flysky-i6, thanks!
I have the same Yinhua soldering station it works amazing, but mine has a digital temperature display on it. I actually like the small soldering tips on the Yinhua better for really small circuit joints that i could not do with the other soldering tips.
As mentioned in video there are a ton of different brands that have copied the original Hakko 936...which was a well made beast of a machine. When searching eBay I'd personally rather buy a used original Hakko than a new generic "knock off". Sold my 936 when I got the new fx888...wish I had kept it, comes in handy to have two hot irons with different tips sometimes.
Nice. Thanks Bruce. $15 from HK but $30 to ship. Almost the same total price from Banggood then plus I can get the tips from them. Still handy to know.
I bought my Hakko, about a year ago and soldering has never been the same. I had a 15/30 watt mains iron that was a piece of junk and I will never go back. remember, you get what you pay for!!!
Nice review of the product. Thank you. About soldering: are there any rules of thumb about which temperature to use in specific situations now you can regulate this with the station?
Bruce, you are supposed to stick the wire wool in the stands cavity
You forgot to mention that the Hakko soldering stand is made out of metal and ceramic while the Ylhua stand is mostly plastic. I find that my Hakko FX888D can handle up to 4mm bullet connectors but has trouble with 5mm and beyond that I have to use a butane pen torch. Tinning 8 AWG wire with the Hakko is basically impossible and for that I use an heavy duty Weller soldering gun that was probably made in the 1950's (still had the original box) that I got from a pawn shop for $15
what sort of temp is a normal setting for soldering speed controllers and what not? and I'd like to know a bit more about those pens please Bruce?
I have the real HAKKO 936+ ESD. It was a gift from my father, and is hands down the best soldering iron I have ever owned. I much prefer it to your 888. Dave Jones at EEVBlog compares the real one to the fake if you want to see the two side by side.
Bruce did you test to see how well & accurate the temperature is at the tip both before soldering and during compared to the Hakko?
Bruce... when you first start up a new iron. Is there a procedure into prepping a new tip? I have heard it's a good idea to burn off and then pre-tin the new tip. Key me know if this is fact our fiction. thanks
I have seen that model with a hot air blower attachment on it also. Are they any good?
I like the small tips! it all depends the size of stuff your working on.
Awesome review! I got a Yihua 898D+ which is about the same, but digital yep weather change, and a hot air gun as well for $60 on eBay. I think you have this one too? I LOVE it!
I just bought one too, can't beat it for the price and it works great! The seller I bought mine from had sold over 1400 of them with good feedback. Would definitely recommend it to anyone looking to buy a good soldering and hot air station.
Ronn Wilson The 898D+? It is great :P
Bruce, have you seen the infomercial for the mini max car jumper? I'd love to see a review on it, see if it's rubbish or not.
Great Bruce,Found it on fleabay $29.44au delivered, locally too.
Hey, just letting you know, the sponge expands when dipped in water. Cheers!
+Jacob Bilger Yep... I said heat when I meant water ;-)
Where do you buy the tups?I need a new soldering iron.
ive got one of these cheap stations, the ones that plug directly into the wall are miles better and the butane ones as well... the station takes too long too heat up and i found that when i tried to solder to deans or xt60 i would melt the connector before i melted the solder, i dont have that issue with the direct into the wall one or the butane one. i did replace the tip so that's not the issue.
+CAIDMASTEROFPYRO
If you melt the plastic before the solder, it means that for whatever reason you don't get the heat into the wire fast enough. 60W (if they don't cheat on the numbers) should be enough for this kind of solderjob. It's most likely not the fault of the station, but how it is used.
Could be a tip too small, an oxidized/worn tip or temperature set too low (maybe partly fault of the station, because the set temperature and real temperature don't match).
+superdau Or he could be using lead-free solder! :-)
Lead-free solder is evil!!!
Send it to me.
Pure tin solder is good for holding parts like wire landing gear much stronger, along with other structural componenets. You just use MORE HEAT, LOTS more and gobs of flux. Works for me. Just needs more heat and technique.
I apply resin to the part and load the iron with melted solder. The heat transfer is instant and makes a far better joint.
I don't use it for wiring. But even for wiring with 60/40, I apply the resin to the part and load the iron with melted solder. If there's insufficient solder, NOW apply more solder to the joint.
Neer mind what the "book" says, the books are wrong.
+hopeso
I apply resin to the part and load the iron with melted solder. The heat
transfer is instant and makes a far better joint.
I don't use it for wiring. But even for wiring with 60/40, I apply the
resin to the part and load the iron with melted solder. If there's
insufficient solder, NOW apply more solder to the joint.
Neer mind what the "book" says, the books are wrong.
I put a spot of white paint on the knob arrow problem fixed.
Received my HobbyKing 936 Soldering Station today after reading your review. The first thing I did was take the top off and found the same problems with the wires at the ON/OFF switch. So I heated up the old hot glue gun and corrected that problem. You said that you can use the tips for a Hokka Soldering Station. I went to the Hokka site and there is a mess of different tips for different pencils. Could you list the part numbers of the 2 you recommend?
Thank You
Randy
I have used the Yihua 936 for the last couple of years and it's better than anything I have ever tired. That being said I tried a el-cheapo soldering iron from Radio Shack and a dual-temp soldering iron from Home Depot so not much to compare to really.
I have one and its great! Well I used to work with a soldering hammer(literally it had a 1cm wide tip) so anything is better what I had but I am inpressed. The knob isnt that bad heating is good the only thing is that it has plastic stand so you might get some of that on your iron. The sponge didnt dry for 2 days so thats good. Can you complain for 15$?
I think they do think about supplying irons with ... well ... ridiculous tips. And they also sell them with solder suckers. They're fun but I find useless compared to braid.
Questions for you Bruce, doesn't flux have a limited shelf life? As Tramsgar asked, maybe some of your knowledge on flux could be shared ... please.
Also, was it you that said "First rule of soldering, if it smells like chicken you're doing it wrong"?
P.S. It is also nice to hear "soldering" pronounced correctly.
Thanks Bruce.
how about looking into soldering/desoldering stations?
I really like mine. Beats a crappy 30w stick. But if you need a better iron than this you probably want a hot air rework station, which is on my list lol.
I have 936 station with 900M T4C tip, works great
Great unit imo. Had this for a few years. Had to replace the mains cable!
New to adjustable irons. What settings do you typically use for work on ESCs and FCs?
great video.
You know so much... ;)
I would like to ask what the different situations for using different flux pens would be?
Wire guage? cables vs circuit board (Naze32)?
Thank you sir.
The transformer from the yihura fits inside the hakko and can convert t to 230V
Bruce any idea where you can get decent elements from for these types of irons or am I best just spending the extra and getting the hakko 123 element?
Regards
+Dave Webster I would expect that it's probably almost cheaper to buy an entire new handpiece than an element these days. I don't know who sells the parts but eBay would be a good place to start.
Thanks Bruce,been using this iron for a couple years now,love it!Will any tip manufacturer work?does it just screw off?could you point me where to get the good tips?thanks
I can not find one for AU on hobbyking. Where did you get yours from in hobbyking?
Just bought this after watching your review! Thanks :) (I bought spare tips)
i plan to get one of these , but what i want to do is have all silicon soldering wand cable , like on original hakko , for nicer feel and better handling . But i cant find anyone selling those , and to make stuff harder its not just 2 wires in there , theres element heater , temperature sensor ,and grounding , i guess so at least 5 wires . Anyone has any ideas what to do
Look for 936 clones with the "A" suffix. They are supposed have a much higher wattage Japanese heater.
You recommend hot glue for wire repairs as such...have you/do you recommend silicon caulk as well as or being better, such as outdoor clear silicon caulk?
+brun. ok You have to be careful with silicone caulking because some of it has acetic acid in it -- which will rot your wires and the vapor will cause other corrosion issues. Hot glue is safe and cheap.
I prefer a "solder sucker" or the wick stuff.
Holy shit you talk fast... That was like an hour of content packed into 13 minutes. Combined with your sexy accent (no homo) and stabbing comment, I'd say you definitely earned a thumbs-up. I'd like to know your recommendations on solder though.
Add a chunk of lead to the Hobby King base on the inside so it doesn't move around.
I bought a yihua brand soldering iron from an Australian ebay merchant (I live in Australia). I had to resolder the socket to the main pcb using my childhood soldering iron from 20 years ago when I was 15yo.
The yihua iron holder is bullshit. if you turn the iron right up, it will melt the plastic. I use a separate soldering iron holder I already had. I still have the stand that came with the soldering iron station but I don't use it.
I have a chisel tip which is fine. And I do occasionally use the highly acute conical tip.
If I had more money, I'd still buy a hako or other higher quality iron, even though my yihua is working and is hot enough to solder xt60 plugs and 4mm bullets.
could u plz tell the longest time u have used it continuously
Check out the Ayoue 936 Station for a bit better build quality and a way better Iron holder for just a little extra.
Have a real Hakko 936 sitting next to me; the stand for the iron is fully metal, so you don't accidentally smudge the tip melting the plastic.
What tips would work this?
The wonderful thing about the 936 is the price is so low (I paid $18 too and shipping only added 2 bucks to an order) you can have 4 stacked together using double sided tape with different tips for the job you are doing. Some of the cheap tips on EBay (10 for $5) are surprisingly well made but the ones I received were too loose (made by CERN?) to make good internal contact with the heating element... but using some copper solder wick makes the contact tight so for $59 US dollars you can have 3 tips ready to go and 7 other tips... 18 bucks more and you have 4... but only 6 tips left over. Darn...;-)
Eighteen bucks? Damn, that's cheaper than a big roll of decent solder. I'll have to recommend this station to the guys at the club who bodge solder with those cheap pencil irons from Jaycar or wherever - which may cost more than this station, certainly if they buy two or three for different jobs.
i have one but with a hot blower , they are pretty decent
Haha...soldering iron, solder thyself. Might be fun to try soldering the soldering station's own internals while it's on. :D
Get a Weller soldering station. That' serious quality.
+xjet Bruce, great info! I've never heard of flux types other than rosin. What situations do you use those other types for? Thanks!
Bought one of these and after only a few times of use, it stopped working! the unit powers on but it doesn't heat anymore, it´s junk if you ask me :( anyway it´s not your fault so thumbs up for the video! :D
is it possible to buy new tips for an iron like this?
+jamble7k www.banggood.com/15pcs-900M-T-Soldering-Iron-Tip-Set-Soldering-Station-Tool-Kit-for-936-p-973312.html
+jamble7k any tips that fit Hakko should fit.
+jamble7k very easy to buy them 900M-T
yes 10 oft them for 5 euros on amazon or ebay
What temp do you usually have your Hakko set on?
+Hewey19 Depends on what I'm soldering but most of the time I have it set pretty close to 350-360 deg C but different solders require different temp settings.
+xjet Thank you! That gives me a good starting spot to do experimenting.
Can you show us how to soldering aluminium.I have a broken battery cell. And it is a pain in the ass to solder it properly tot the oder sell's.
what is flux for @rcmodelreviews?
+Oscar Thorpe Flux is used to stop the solder and the items you're soldering from oxidising. When you heat stuff up it tends to react with the oxygen in the air and create oxides on the surface. You can't solder an oxide so this thin layer interferes with the soldering process by stopping the solder from alloying with the copper or other metals you're joining. The flux acts to inhibit (and even dissolve) that oxide layer and this ensure a good reliable joint. You will also find that once the flux built into the solder boils/burns off, the solder will become "stale" and won't flow smoothly. The addition of a little flux will make it flow nicely again. Check out the soldering basics video on this channel for a demonstration of that.
+xjet oh yes now i do see. Thank you mr. Simpson
I got one three or four years ago and loved it. I bought another just after as a spare. The handset fell apart after a couple of years so I took the one from the spare. Would be good if you could just buy the handset. Anyone tried...?
+Fug Bucker May have answered my own question. just found these that look like they will fit...www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-pin-New-Soldering-Station-Iron-Handle-for-HAKKO-907-ESD-907-936-937-928-926-/151623929022
I do like the tear down!
Hey, you never tested it. Not even turned it on. If they ship with such a small tip I would be worried that they are not putting out enough power to maintain the heat or reach temperature as quickly as the Haiko. I would think you have a infrared temperature gun that can at least give a comparative temperature to the Haiko. And try a side by side melting of some silver solder and see if it has the guts to do the job.
The cheapest one on the market. I remember when Dave almost had a stroke while reviewing it on the EEVBlog. But as you say , it's good for the price.
but the Hakko is so hideous. I'm looking for a great quality and also great looking unit. Any ideas?
I think weller has the most beautiful units :)
I ended up buying the 937D+, and found my way back here to see if I should upgrade to the Hakko. I'm sorry for my comment on the looks. I'm going to try better Cardas wire, and see how I do before I upgrade. This vid reminds me that I have a nice budget unit. It IS annoying like you said though!
Nice review Bruce. The main power wires must be crimped not soldered. Not a good product. A bit how you do it, less safe.
If you want to buy a soldering station. Buy one from element 14 or RS. They have nice 50W and 80W stations for less then $150,- and you will have a lifetime fun soldering.
If you want the best of the best buy a Weller WS81. A 80W soldering station that can handle XT60 and solder even SMD parts on a PCB. Lots of parts and soldering iron tips.
Remember that this soldering station costs about $15, that's 1/10th of the cost of the ones you are recommending. of course a $150 is going to be better, bit for the price this yihua one is pretty good.
+Elwin van der Meer, But I am a little worried about the main wire connection. It can come lose in time and do horrible things. Bruce mansion this also in his review.
Hi Bruce, what do you think of this adjustable soldering iron? Or rather this type of iron that has temperature regulation in the handle?
www.banggood.com/60W-220V-Electric-Adjustable-Temperature-Welding-Solder-Soldering-Iron-p-87374.html
BTW I have(or had) the Yihua936 and the heating element burned through and broke after a few months.