Lightweight 3D Printing
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2018
- Tutorial that goes through how you can design your own lightweight 3D printed parts! 3D printing certainly has it's place in terms of prototyping, but I also believe it can be of use for applications such as this aircraft fuselage. Not only is it aerodynamic and relatively lightweight, it is also very easy to construct once the design is complete. Therefore allowing quick replacements with minimal effort in the event of a crash.
Thingiverse files: www.thingiverse.com/thing:315...
How I previously designed my 3D printed plane: • 3D Printed plane - How...
My first 3D printed plane: • 3D Printed plane - Wil...
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Great video! A couple of suggestions: 1) Design a bunch of 2mm holes in the perimeter of your bulkheads where they join, so you can glue in some short "pegs" you cut from the same filament. That way you can glue with perfect alignment. I used this method on my Astromech Droid rocket and some rocket fins I designed in 2014 where I was struggling to model reinforcing ribs like these, only the slicers were very primitive back then and these cool wall options didn't exist. 2) You can make horizontal "ribs" print by putting a chamfer on the lower side. You can also put fillets on the ribs so they print horizontally. I usually make ribs that don't protrude so far into the interior so adding fillets turns them into a rounded bump.3) Complex surfaces can be structurally sound without ribs at all, and you can print them in "vase" mode (sometimes called "spiralize outer contour") and you get one continuous wall with no seams or stringing inside. I was just working on a video about this.Looking forward to seeing the plane completed.
Maybe You could also make the "pegs" removable like tooth pick that you remove after glueing : less weight
Interesting about the 2mm holes for the filament joints! I had considered tabs, but couldn't work out how to integrate them into the print because of the way the parts are printed. For some reason, adding a chamfer to the lower side of a rib causes some weird affects in simplify3D. It seems to draw the outer skin up until the rib, then retract and draw a triangle (profile of the chamfer), then continue a new wall on the other side. I suppose if the overlap of the skin and rib is enough then this should work. Yes you're correct, I've realised after a few more test prints that 3D printed 'shells' can be quite rigid by themselves. The only other advantage to having ribs is if they run perpendicular to the printed layers, it might help with layer strength? Might be something to test! Thanks
thats a great idea for the pegs :D.....maybe you could even fill it with a 3d pen or other way to 'rivet' it in place :).
The big issues with printing "tabs" is that small features like that tend to be weak and break off. If they are just glue alignment tabs then they only have to last long enough for you to glue the parts together. But the largest drawback with them is they limit the print orientation of the part, since any face with tabs would need a lot of support if it were facing the bed. With pegs, every face can be flat with holes in it, so you can print it facing the bed, and the pegs are solid filament extrusions, so they are strong and don't break off like tiny printed features.
try Cura, S3d sometimes doesn't slice as well and vice versa depending on the STL.
Great tip for aligning the internal ribs so they don't need support. I love seeing workflows and thought processes. I'd be happy to watch more of these
sli3cr has the thin wall detect button as well. also has spiral vase mode which spirals the layer so you get no join marks. pretty decent. Sic3r PE has come on leaps and bounds with its functionality and ease of use
To align parts when gluing you could add some synchronization pins and holes to the connection surface.
You could also put the parts and align leaving a thing crack between them, and then put a thin CA glue over it and squeeze em together.
Works perfectly in a plastic models world.
Great video! I wasn’t aware of that feature in S3D. I really enjoy the way you explain why you make your decisions and share any failures along the way so that others don’t make unnecessary mistakes. Keep up the great work!
Thanks mate, have fun with that glue :D
Thanks for the sending of the glue 😆
Funny...
Thumbs up on this tutorial, and hopefully all the tutorials to come!
Well done, sir!
I saw the title card and was really excited, than you very much for sharing the files!
Would you consider a video about designing and 3d printing, wind energy capture. There are a few designs around, it would be interesting to hear you research and explain the various pros/cons.
That's a great idea, I've seen a few as well but sadly non are designed to be aerodynamically efficient. This seems a shame when 3D printers give so much freedom to create any complicated shape and reproduce it.
These types of videos with CAM and Slicer discoveries and tips are perfect for a second YT channel
i’m just rly impressed how you drew the fuselage. i have some experience using cad software and i find making round surfaces like that rly hard.
For the solid inside a solid, you could model things inside as a negative solid, having a mount or rib made up of air. When printed, this part would also have a layer which will have to be printed
Wow, great video Tom. You have no idea how useful this is for me right now. I want to create a 3D-printable quadcopter so I don't have to buy new parts when I crash. These tips, especially the higher temp for better layer bonding, will help me with my design. Thanks a lot and if you plan on more tutorials like this in the future I'd love to learn from your expierience.
Nice work as always.. Congratulations
for the alignment the 2 parts you can embed in your design some pivot holes where you cut it in half in order to join the two parts together easy
If you use ABS or PP instead of PLA, it will be 20-30% lighter. Design the fuselage to break away upon impact and it will be less likely to be permanently broken. Perhaps designing the two halves to snap together instead of being glued would help too.
I recommend you always create a component first and work within that bucket for each part. It keeps your timelines from getting trashed, and lets you modify am older part without rippling the whole timeline (edit: just noticed you did towards the end). You should also build a 0 thickness plane, use T to trim it and then extrude it within the cylinder.
Thankyou for your kind act : sharing the nice content that you found out with us free of cost
Thankyou so much
Please keep doing videos like this. I enjoyed it very much 😁
Congratulations for your design!
You inspirates me to make a fuselage for a flying wing. I'm going to scale your design for a 4m wingspan flying wing
Thanks very much Tom, excellent information!
love your videos, all relevant and well explained! :)
Nice job man! I really need to just dive right in and invest in a proper 3D printer. :P Videos like this show me why I need one so badly.
ProjectAir if you dive into a printer, I’d recommend Prusa I3. I bought 2 printers prior and spent too much patience on those two. Wasn’t happy with them. It’s expensive at first, but cheaper in the long run
There are a few tricks you can use to go around your "rib-face-deleting"-problem. In the extrusion dialog you can chose to extrude to a surface, that will eliminate the need, to modify it afterwards, but you can't do it symmetrically then. If you´re doing only half of your model anyway (as with the fuselage) that will work without problem. In your example, if you need to do several ribs, you can start like you did, but then instead of deleting all the faces, you can cut-extrude a large enough circle from the starting sketch and remove all the outside parts of all the ribs at the same time.
bonesawmcl i came here to say the same thing, but there is no rule saying you can only extrude once, so he could accomplish it with 2 actions. Additionally, you don't need to extrude symmetrically if you are going to an object.
Excellent Video! I would love more like these! My CAD skills are very rusty and I'm looking forward to making my own RC plan from my 3D Printers some day. :D
Cura can do this too. I used it for making spiral bearing/bushing replacements. And by this I mean print the outer wall only
Hey Tom, another great video.
Three things:
1) What's F360's estimate for weight of the fuselage you printed?
2) As this was printed vertically, the layering is perpendicular to air flow in forward flight. What, if anything, to you do too smooth the print to reduce drag?
3) Suggestion: When designing parts joined by glue, include alignment features such as slots and tabs to aid in easy and precise fitment without worry of adhesion before the parts are set correctly.
Thank you very much for sharing you hard work on this fuselage. Real Art! I am finishing your print after a couple failed prints using a Cetus3d mk2 which is closed source. My failures were related to crashes with the "shelf " as the nozzle transitioned perpendicular across it. I ended up taking a soldering iron and making tiny notched at the point of crashes as it printed. Hey it worked. I also had some tiny penetration points through the walls at some of the perimeter overlaps...I think. I really like PLA+ by Esun which is cheap as chips and tough. And I think PLA is the way to go...at least so far. I have been experimenting with making strong tubes by stretching the length and decreasing the diameter of complicated surfaced vase designs. The complex paths of the filament used in the vase surface remain in my stretched rods and oval rods that I have been looking at for quad arms in 12mm diameter and 1.5mm thickness. I think that the complex paths tend to weave the filament producing stronger adhesion. Anyway, I think we haven't fully utilized the print path. I am new to Fusion 360 and 3d printing so I really have no clue as to how to direct the nozzle path in such a way.This is a vase I have been using by Devin? at Make Anything www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-41894. I'm still looking for the Fusion 360 design video....I know I have it here somewhere. Ah Found it. At 8:49 on ua-cam.com/video/1DiN72GdZo8/v-deo.html&index=5&list=PLvsgMvQaf6uTcdaCROejuXU37TdXozapD. At 10:27 it shows a closeup of the nozzle path doing its knitting? thing. Thanks for the inspiration Sir!
Nice work l really like the thin wall part
For a horizontal rib like on your cylinder example, you might consider a fillet. I don't use fusion so I have no clue how to effect that, but, it should make it printable.
Thanks, that was well explained. I have done a bit of single wall printing stuff, rc plans (3dlabs and more).
One of the little issues experienced is when printing single wall wings there can be warping of the wall in certain areas, where it diverges from the wall plane the nozzle path has defined due to warpage. I noticed it doesn't happen when printing vases in vase mode with single thin wall because of the structural shape of vases is constantly curving or changing with different angular patterns etc which adds rigidity and strength to the vase. When i try this with a wing it will warp in areas because the wing shape is closer to a flat plane and not as strongly able to hold it's shape. Just looking for any clues how to keep wings outer single wall perimeter from diverging off design plane. I noticed even with 3dlab type plane with lots of internal ribs, it can warp in the unsupported bays between ribs if the area is large enough.
Made a cylinder with 0.4 mm wall with onshape, sliced it with cura 3.4.1 without problems.
That was awesome and super helpful so Thanks!!!
thanks I can't wait to try it out, bought a printer after seeing your last video :D
You can select "Print Thin Walls" in Cura. If you don't see that settings just type Print Thin Walls in search.
Hi Tom, nice vid and tip! Have you tried the web feature in F360 to make the ribs? You will have to play around on where to do the drawing, but it works.
Instead of printing support for overhang you can sometimes also just add an external piece (like a rod) to your design like physically on the printing bed.
I don't see many people using this idea actually.
I'd like to see a 3D printed DLG. I think you could make the airfoil very precise with the single wall thickness parts. It could be a very interesting project!
Pretty nice work, dude! 😊
I remember when Samm Sheperd did a pod too for a wing and it was awesome! 😃
Looking forward to the next parts!
he is something like a replacement for Samm..
@@among-us-99999 Sorry, dude, but nobody replaces nobody. Samm is irreplaceable, exactly like Tom. 😉
MC's Creations ..forget it 😅 I didn’t manage to translate what I wanted to say correctly
@@among-us-99999 Don't worry, dude! English isn't my native language either. I'm from Brazil. 😊
Cool. Thanks. I made my own model plane - its elastic band powered and lightweight. Keep it up.;)
Great video! It would be interesting to see, how you design complex shapes, like the fuselage, in the CAD programm. I'd asume that you can't do it by simply using planes?
Great video 👍 Tom
Tom, good video. For the modeling side, yes you can model solid bodies in solid bodies. The trick is not to unit them. Export the stl files out separately. Load the stl files in the slicing software. Make sure they are still aligned and apply different parameters to the files. I usually add a 0.3mm overlap between the skins and supports. This will cause a double extrusion and create a super strong bond. If you are interested I can walk you through the process. I have built a 16' tall model rocket with this approach.
I would suggest designing some locating dowels into your joins to make glueing more accurate.
I've never been this early. Great video as always Tom 🙂
You could print the fuselage in something more impact resistant, like nylon or polypropylene.
Hey Tom! Would you be interested in making a video about how you designed that fuselage? It looks great, and I would love to get some ideas on how to design something similar myself :)
Just had an idea for a future project/design/challenge for you. A plane (or fixed wing craft) that can fly backwards and forwards with the same propeller. Switching in midair would be a bonus.
That won't be easy, you'd need to be able to reconfigure the plane to move the centre of mass or the centre of drag while it's flying to keep it nose heavy and stable. The control surfaces are traditionally on trailing edges so you'd need duplicates or something clever like canards, also need to find an ESC which can drive a motor in both directions (or some kind of wire-switching doodad to reverse the motor direction), and props generally aren't designed to produce thrust in both directions so will be very inefficient in one direction.
You can do that with the small 3D planes with variable pitch propellers - 3D because of how they can move, rather than because they are printed :)
Thanks for the tips on thin wall printing, it's inspired me to design and print some floats for my ft simple cub, I've tried and tried but can't find a setting combination that will work in Cura with the single wall I want, but simplify3d seams to work fine, am printing atm so we will see how it comes out.
With regard to the ribbing inside the tube, I imagine you could also leave them them perpendicular instead of slanted if you added a 45 degree chamfer to the "underside" of the rib.
Just tried an equivalent sample and exported the stl to cura, which had no problems at all turning that into a single filament wall.
Thanks, perfect. I would look forward to version with Slic3r, but I think I can still use it ;)
Really liked this kind of video, would like more of 3d cad design
Any chance you can do a more in depth tutorial of the exact design of the fuselage?
Thanks mate.
Great video Tom. I'll be interested in how you created those lovely curves!
I'm learning SolidWorks this semester, I'll have to try this. I'm sure there's probably a way to do this in Cura as well :)
Nice !
Use the Project Intersection feature in Fusion 360 to get the exact profile of the cylinder at an angle. Offset this projection to the width desired. Makes for a much easier to adjust model, clean timeline - no cheats required.
Hi Tom, great video! I would find it interesting to see how you did the design work in Fusion 360!
I can't wait to see this plane in the air ;)
Another great video, just wondering if you changed over to the monthly sub Autodesk changed to? That is and 81.xxx a month here so I pulled out as it's too expensive etc..have you looked at the Italian blokes RC model aircraft design software..fudge can't recall the name.. thanks Laurie
awesome coated door indeed. By the way is extrusion multiplier available with Cura?
Tom, doesn't F3D have the 'Extrude to' feature like Inventor, where you can extrude a distance or to the intersection with another selectable solid?
I'm sure his is probably something people do already but, couldn't you work some kind of registration into the parts so they align themselves when assembled?
Phenomenal tutorial been curious how you've made those ribs. I've been wondering, anyone know if there is some way to make custom infill patterns in simplify 3d (or other slices)
Hey really awesome video as always ;) small Simplif3D tip that also applies to Slic3r and Cura: it dose not Print a wall that is 0.4 is because if it is only slight smaller as the nozzle s3d will not print it. There are two more ways to solve this: 1.) make the walls 0.45, that will round to one wall, or 2.) In S3D in the extruder settings set the "Extrusion Width" to "Manual 0,39mm" and it will also print 0.4 walls.
Other miner thing... your Extrusion Multiplier is set to 1.1... on a good tuned printer 1 should be perfect ;)
i know this is old but extrusion multiplier can be handy for undersized or nonround filament instead of changing the filament size in the profile, an extrusion multiplier can be tuned real time and then set vs trying to measure filament that might not be round or consistent. definitely though if you're using extrusion multiplier to compensate on all filaments you need to calibrate esteps or find whatever other issue you have.
if you want the ring to not be diagonal, you could make it conical.
(Although, i'm not sure how easy that would be, or if it would work for sure)
But overall, really great video, i love learning from you! Wish there where more videos!
really enjoyed this vid!
subscribed for the cnc stuff, recently bought a 3D printer partly because of your vids, and i seem to be getting into the RC rabbet hole too. you're costing me alot of money!
Id love to see how you modelled that full fuselage. dis you use sculpt or is it all sketches and extrudes?
keep up the great vids
Try changing the extrusion width to manual and set it to 0.2, then set your outline/perimeter shells to 2. Simplify throws up an error but you can choose to ignore it and if your printer is well tuned you get a stronger print without adding weight. Have a play and try it out :)
You seem to be designing something very similar to me, but it looks more like an FPV glider (like a skywalker or a volantex). I'm designing a 2m pure glider with "built up" wings. The wing ribs will be 3d printed and covered in film like old school model planes.
Also you could use aligning tabs to help you glue it together like 3dLabPrints does
I like that you posted a video about this design process!
But to be honest, it feels a little ... Basic.
Slic3r supports merging perimeter walls together to a single line and has done so for a long time. It also includes recommended sizes for 2, 3 or 4 perimeter wall widths, which makes designing easier.
The way you set up the supporting beam was also a little weird, I would have used a cut-projection of the object you want to support, and an offset from the projection. That might work better for complex geometry.
Fusion 360 also includes a "make hull" command that takes any completely solid geometry and hollows it out to a specific wall thickness, which would have been nice to have mentioned here.
to delete the remainder of your ribbing, you can just use the outer face of the tube as a cutting surface. "Modify" -> "split body" -> select rib as body to be split -> select outer tube face as spliting surface. Then delete the new outer body. this should help reduce fusions calcs when editing the model. For model alignment id just make another layer thin body thats like 10mm that sits inside both halves as like a internal coupler.
You don’t need to extrude the “plates” and then delete the outer areas. When extruding select “to object” instead of distance and select the inner surface of the cylinder. It will then only extrude to this surface.
Not sure if your aware but in Fusion360 you can export the stl straight into Simplify3D. When you choose Save as STL on the object. You have an option under output to send to 3D Print Utility. Select Custom for print Utility and find the Simplify3D Executable and when you click ok it will start Simplify3D and have your STL pre-loaded. If you want to import multiple STLs then just make sure you close simplify3D after each import. It will come up with previous STLs and the one you just imported.
Float/sea plane, go for a harder landing with wet stuff thrown in lol, great vid, cheers
How about if you make a thread in the cylinder with really large gaps, then you will have a uniform reinforcement throughout the whole length of the tube? (and the angle neccesary for printing)
Thanks for this. I'm about ready to buy myself a 3D printer, so tutorials like this help considerably.
In regards to the 3D printed plane, I don't think I've seen you paint any of your 3D printed things. Is that because of the extra mass that is added when painting? Could you talk a bit in a future video about how much mass would actually added?
Thanks!
Buy an Ender 3 and join the Facebook group.
Could print something like that as a cast, then use papier mache to make the actual fuselage, to be even lighter?
solid in a solid is possible with multiple bodies, in case that could be usefull to anyone in the future! the stl file will be generated with the outer surfaces of both solids in the same file.
Have you compared your thin wall technique against just upping the diameter? I'd start at .564 (.4*sqrt(2)) mm, then compare model and weight, then keep reducing and see if you end up at the end result. If your .4 modelweight is 13g, then you'd start at 18g, which is very close to your custom wall process, but how much under sqrt(2) can we go?
You have a link to everything in your description except what 3D printer you are using. Any chance you have a link?
I have been using the Plast-I-Weld (methylene chloride) for PLA and find it works quickly and makes an amazingly strong bond.
I have been using Deluxe Materials Plastic Magic which I think is similar & it works amazingly well on PLA. It both solvent welds & dries quickly. Also great for finishing sanded edges.
You can purchase methylene chloride cheaply in bulk from ebay - just transfer the stuff to glass bottles when you get it , or it will eventually all evaporate through the supplied poly container!
That T-Rex in the background, love it. Starting to get rare now that drones are taking over :(
Could you use polypropylene filament? It has a lower density.
Tom, did you end up doing a tutorial series for your Patreon supporters? Could you post the link?
Appreciated.
Hi Tom, which wingspan do you recommend for the original print size?
You should put a V tail on the plane and recreate the aerobird xtreme
What do you do if you have Cura? I sat for hours trying to get it to work. Double thickness doesn't work either
I was just wondering, could you make a 3d printed object that holds compressed air, and if you can, could you make one that fits a compressed air powered plane
Thanks for another great video!!!
Regarding Your ""problem"" with glueing the "constituent parts" together, have You considered just printing a small "jig" that will hold them in alignment... It wouldn't really need to be anything intricate, possibly just a "collar" that would ensure that Your parts lined up as intended, I imagine that should be quite trivial for someone with Your skills ?? Just a thought
Best regards.
Well, with Fusion 360 now including FFF toolpath generation, directly producing G-code, that faffing around with, boo, STLs, should no longer be necessary. Right?
Why didn't you use diagonal ribs for nose part??please clarify my doubt
try using petg for these kinds of parts - the betwenn layer adheision is even way better then pla and it is durable as hell!!!
+that stuff is more heat resistent (hot motor...) and really chemically resistant (solvents in glues...)
but i like your ways of reenforcing parts! 👍
It's great stuff. Some thoughts though:
It does tend to be a bit more flexible than PLA(does mean it doesn't crack as easily), removing supports can be very tricky and it can be quite a bit more stringy.
Biggest problem is actually gluing the damned stuff.. The solvent glues that work on ABS and PLA don't work at all on PETG. Epoxy seems to be the best.
I always thought PLA was lightest. So possibly best in these applications.
Sam Holzberg PLA is much heavier than ABS or HIPS
@Hecto Naaire the only problem with PP is rigidity. You need to make your design more reinforced to achieve the same stiffness, and this will increase the weight to some extent. Would be interesting to test however.
@@sholz124 i think on parts wirh this low volume it doesn't make much difference... (just 2-3g maybe?)
but since it is already way more durable you can most likely use less reenforcing - cutting down volume/weight...
Channel Wing baby!!!
Nice.
Would u make vedio on Francis turbine protoyping efficiency
"I need to work on my glueing skills" Or, print some guide tabs to one half to align the halves when you glue ;)
What if you design through holes in the cylinder, if I'm understanding correctly, you are "shelling" the part, which would in turn turn those holes into hollow pillars.
Have you tried to print only the skeleton of the part and then cover it with scotch tape? Should be lighter and with a smoother finish, but you have to model it carefully to not lose any rigidity. Would be cool to see the wings made that way and compare the weight and max wing load.
Turns out this just works default in Cura, just tested it. But you have to make sure your STL files are saved as high accuracy, i was getting errors with Autodesk Inventor's standard accuracy (Brep)
Polypropylene has the lowest density, while Polycarbonate is 30% heavier, but twice as strong. I am wondering for RC planes, which translates into lighter and structurally sound 3D planes. (data from the simplify3d filament table).