it's very important to remember that when you give a b&w negative more or less develop time, with your standard developer, the low areas will also respond by becoming less dense with less development, and more dense with more development time. I know they say that doesn't happen but it does, Ansel mentioned that in his workbook; which I totally disregarded. I found using 1/2 stop exposure compensation, -1/2 stop for +1 development, -1 stop for +2 development, if you can go out that far, +1 stop for -2 development etc was "spot on" and created the exact range of tones I was trying to procure, along with the exact amount of detail desired; so important. Also, remember what your doing when placing values, or tones, is creating (emotional impact) in your final image, so important in the creative process; ie: lower the lower areas, and higher the higher areas, in the same print, the more contrast. the more dramatic the subject is portrayed; doing the opposite the more calming effect. Bob.
Indeed, great advice. For my main film and developer I find 1/3 stop compensation for each zone + or - keeps my densities at zone one exactly the same. But yes there definitely is a speed change when doing this. Thanks!
Ansel Adams was aware of this and became very angry against Kodak who changed several time the Tri-X formula without noticing it to customers. (his 20 last years he exclusively used Tri-X 320 rollfilm at 200 ISO developped in very diluted HC110) His book "The Negative" has been written at a time where films were extremely flexible to development time and this was much less the case 30 years later 😃
Beautiful location and fantastic pictures. It was satisfying (and not surprising) to see that, after all your deliberations about which zone you would place which part of the image, the exposure corresponded to the "Sunny 16" rule.
Thanks, Martin! Sunny 16 does usually hold true, though I do like to know for sure, especially with how long to develop or what developer/technique to use. I like to have a better gauge on the contrast if I ca rather than simply saying it was contrasty, normal or dull. But that can work as well too👍
Watching a Technika fall over on a tripod is so much less traumatic than a wooden superlight would be. "Probably be fine" is what I thought as I saw it. Wonderful location and great images! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Thanks Sean! Once I got the snow out of the camera it worked fine. Shot the last image right after. Probably good it fell in fresh snow. Technika is a bit of a tank.
As always, very well explained and informative. I don't subscribe to your channel for the production value (majority of the time spot on so what if it's not perfect audio while you're traversing snow covered woods). I'm always learning something from you, taking a million notes, and slowly putting it all together as much as a novice can. Thanks for your time with all of your videos.
Great relevance to me, very useful video. I’ve got a set of 40.5mm filters for my Pentax meter. Do you meter through the filter or apply an adjustment without adding the filter?
Wonderful video, it's interesting to see your work outside of the darkroom as well ! The technical information you give is very valuable, I still have so much to learn. In this video you also mention different types of exposing/developing - could be fun therefore to also watch you develop these same pictures in your darkroom !
I got depressed because you made me feel I still have much to learn. But then I thought about your Linhof hitting the deck and I felt good about myself again 😂. Would love to see a video of shooting in fog. I’ve burned through so much film trying to nail that scenario.
Great to see you back on the road Matt. What I would give for some snow down here in west Cornwall , the UK has loads of snow . As normal we get loads of rain in the SW . You really should try 510 Pyro from zone imaging , for its ability to hold highlights due to the stain on the neg .
I also have BB's book, though I usually just do an average metering with roll film. Still well worth having the book and studying it. Great images. What lens was used for that great island pic, surely longer than 90mm? Cheers from Montreal!
The lens for the last shot was a 210mm Schneider 5.6. With roll film I sometimes spot meter but more often then not just expose more into the shadows and. Then develop according to the contrast needed. If I have favorite shots on the roll I develop bias towards them. With large format I can get more precise for each sheet so do my best to get very printable negs for what I have invisioned! So much great stuff in that book, I reread a lot of it from time to time! Cheers!
Mi grupo y yo te seguimos desde nuestra equinoccial Colombia. Mis muchachos y yo te saludamos Matthew!
Stay cool my friend!
it's very important to remember that when you give a b&w negative more or less develop time, with your standard developer, the low areas will also respond by becoming less dense with less development, and more dense with more development time. I know they say that doesn't happen but it does, Ansel mentioned that in his workbook; which I totally disregarded. I found using 1/2 stop exposure compensation, -1/2 stop for +1 development, -1 stop for +2 development, if you can go out that far, +1 stop for -2 development etc was "spot on" and created the exact range of tones I was trying to procure, along with the exact amount of detail desired; so important.
Also, remember what your doing when placing values, or tones, is creating (emotional impact) in your final image, so important in the creative process; ie: lower the lower areas, and higher the higher areas, in the same print, the more contrast. the more dramatic the subject is portrayed; doing the opposite the more calming effect. Bob.
Indeed, great advice. For my main film and developer I find 1/3 stop compensation for each zone + or - keeps my densities at zone one exactly the same. But yes there definitely is a speed change when doing this. Thanks!
Ansel Adams was aware of this and became very angry against Kodak who changed several time the Tri-X formula without noticing it to customers.
(his 20 last years he exclusively used Tri-X 320 rollfilm at 200 ISO developped in very diluted HC110)
His book "The Negative" has been written at a time where films were extremely flexible to development time and this was much less the case 30 years later
😃
What film/developer are you using to compensate by 1/2?
@@Distphotowhat film/developer are you using that requires 1/3 compensation vs 1/2?
@@Sebastian-lw1ei Tri-X 320. And hc110 1:64 on jobo
That last photograph is beautiful! I too have Bruce Barnbaum's book "The Art of Photography" which is fantastic!
Thanks Steve! One of my favorites ( the book and picture 😀)
Beautiful location and fantastic pictures. It was satisfying (and not surprising) to see that, after all your deliberations about which zone you would place which part of the image, the exposure corresponded to the "Sunny 16" rule.
Thanks, Martin! Sunny 16 does usually hold true, though I do like to know for sure, especially with how long to develop or what developer/technique to use. I like to have a better gauge on the contrast if I ca rather than simply saying it was contrasty, normal or dull. But that can work as well too👍
Watching a Technika fall over on a tripod is so much less traumatic than a wooden superlight would be. "Probably be fine" is what I thought as I saw it. Wonderful location and great images! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Thanks Sean! Once I got the snow out of the camera it worked fine. Shot the last image right after. Probably good it fell in fresh snow. Technika is a bit of a tank.
As always, very well explained and informative. I don't subscribe to your channel for the production value (majority of the time spot on so what if it's not perfect audio while you're traversing snow covered woods). I'm always learning something from you, taking a million notes, and slowly putting it all together as much as a novice can. Thanks for your time with all of your videos.
Much appreciated! Still can not believe I grabbed right on the mic 🥸...
Great relevance to me, very useful video. I’ve got a set of 40.5mm filters for my Pentax meter. Do you meter through the filter or apply an adjustment without adding the filter?
In love with this no bullshit channel
Thanks B 👍
Wonderful video, it's interesting to see your work outside of the darkroom as well ! The technical information you give is very valuable, I still have so much to learn. In this video you also mention different types of exposing/developing - could be fun therefore to also watch you develop these same pictures in your darkroom !
Glad you enjoyed it!
I got depressed because you made me feel I still have much to learn. But then I thought about your Linhof hitting the deck and I felt good about myself again 😂.
Would love to see a video of shooting in fog. I’ve burned through so much film trying to nail that scenario.
PS. That last exposure was a real beauty.
I love fog but alas around me it is so unpredictable makes it hard to plan and record. Maybe I will get lucky!
Thanks!
Great to see you back on the road Matt. What I would give for some snow down here in west Cornwall , the UK has loads of snow . As normal we get loads of rain in the SW . You really should try 510 Pyro from zone imaging , for its ability to hold highlights due to the stain on the neg .
We just got another 16 inches... you can have it at this point! Have some Pyrocat HD I mess with at times, comparable?
@@Distphoto I haven't tried pyrocat HD . I think John @pictoralplanet may have done a comparison?
I also have BB's book, though I usually just do an average metering with roll film. Still well worth having the book and studying it. Great images. What lens was used for that great island pic, surely longer than 90mm? Cheers from Montreal!
The lens for the last shot was a 210mm Schneider 5.6. With roll film I sometimes spot meter but more often then not just expose more into the shadows and. Then develop according to the contrast needed. If I have favorite shots on the roll I develop bias towards them. With large format I can get more precise for each sheet so do my best to get very printable negs for what I have invisioned! So much great stuff in that book, I reread a lot of it from time to time! Cheers!
I can recommend Barry Thornton's books (UK photographer) if you're interested in reading. Gene Nocon's book is excellent too.
I'll check it out! Have read some of Barry Thorton's but not Gene. Thanks!
👍
don't bears hibernate in the winter?
I guess you are right 😂
@@Distphoto love your videos. Very informative!
@@martykimble9999 Thanks Marty, appreciate that!