How I use a light meter for black & white film in the winter.
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- I take the viewers through the steps of how I use a light meter to meter my scenes in the winter time while working with my large format camera and black and white film.
See more of my work here.
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www.toddkorol.com
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One of the best, most chill, most accessible image making channels! Thank you!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching, cheers!
Great video Mr. Todd, and thank you for taking us along on your photography trip. Very informative.
Thanks for watching
That rock made for a wonderful photo. Here in Ontario we’re.still getting plenty of practice allowing for snow cover. Good to be reminded that dynamic range is a factor in metering and that contrast can be increased with a longer development time. Thanks, Todd. Hope you receive more assignments like this.
Thanks very much, yes I saw some snow flying in parts of Ontario today.
Excellent video Todd . . . And great photos. Takes me back to the days of being out with my Toyo 45A!
Thanks,, yes really into making a photo with the 4x5
Beautiful scenes, and thanks for introducing me to Deuter.
You’re welcome thanks for watching.
Another great video. Thank you for sharing. Inspires me to go out with my 4x5 Linhof. Just last night we had huge amounts of freshly fallen snow.
Cheers and best regards, Greg
Great, the fresh snow is the best!
Happy I found your channel this morning. Great scenery and even greater photos. Thank you for your stellar explanation of you metering method.
Hi and welcome. Thanks for watching.
Another great video. Super easy to watch with no click bait and no filler. Thanks for doing these Todd. I know it takes an awful lot of effort to put these together.
Thank you, and thanks for watching, appreciate it!
Enjoyed watching this after a long day at work. Learned something as well! Thank you
That's great to hear, cheers!
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you for the great video.
Awesome. If one person can get some good info out of it worthwhile! Thanks for watching.
Superb video and production values have gone up by an order or two now, Todd. Nice explaination. Even thought I would like to think I know the basics now it is always good to hear it coming from someone like you.
Thanks very much!
great location Todd, but, as there was snow, why not use asa 100 film and a polariser\ND filter to cut the overexposure of the white snow?, was so surprised no flare or glare was evident on those images.
Because I knew I would be taking some photos in the shade so I wanted a faster film.
Love your videos Todd. Have you ever used Ilford FP4 for your landscape work? if so , pro's and con's? Thanks.
Yes I use it all the time. Pros it’s great!! Not a lot of cons.
If you are going to push (or pull) film, it's not enough to simply increase or decrease development time, frankly, you also have to adjust shutter speed and aperture accordingly. So for example if you're using ISO 400 film @ f/11 1/30s and want more contrast out of the scene, you should shoot that as if it's ISO 800 film at either f/11@ 1/60s or f/16 at 1/30s, THEN increase development time to compensate for less light. If you want even more contrast, push it to ISO 1600, f/11 @125s or f/22 @ 1/30s and increase development time even more than before.
Thanks for taking us through your exposure process. How was the diffraction on the f64 image of the water fall? I'm not comfortable going there on 4x5.
Really can’t see anything. It’s also a very good modern lens.
Great tutorial, Todd! How did you settle on the 15% bump for N+1 - is it all just trial and error with your chosen developer? I'm still trying to dial in my N+/- times for TMax 100.
Have a look at the video Mat Marrash did with the stouffer wedge, that's a great place to start to get your normal times down. ;-)
Hello Todd, I just wonder, which dark cloth are you using?
I am on the market to get one for myself.
It's a 4x5 BTZS Focus Hood , the View Camera store has them.
What light meter are you using here and do you have recommendations? Thanks!
I use a Sekonic L-508, all the Seconic or older Pentax spotmeters are great for this.
Yes dream assignment
So longer development = more contrast? Couldn’t agree more re camera bags, incidentally.
Yes you can boost the contrast, by more development, it's brightens up the whites. But you also have to be careful not to overdevelop the negatives because you can blow out the highlights and not have any details. Then they get very hard to print.
As usual another very nice vid!!! Thanks for sharing the detailed metering info and that's what we like......technical details!!! Cheers
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Great video, Todd.
Could you have just metered the highlights for Zone 8 and let things fall from there?
Excellent presentation and teaching. RS. Canada
Glad you liked it, and thank you! Cheers.
Amazing video like always. question how do you keep the black borders at the negative.Thank you.
I leave the borders in when I scan the negatives.
Hi Todd. I am 2 years late, but this video was so useful. One thing, I would have like to have seen more, was how you set up your back pack for your 4x5 camera gear. I am new to large format and so far, I've struggled with finding a practical way to pack and carry my gear out into the forest and in my kayak. Other than that, this video was very helpful. Thank you!
I am actually going to do a video on that very soon.
Hmmmmm............................All the early photographic masters like Henri Cartier Bresson didn't use a light meter for most of his photographs and he was a master. What did he know that modern photographers don't know. Everybody today has to meter everything.
True, but it’s just easier to make prints with a properly exposed and developed negative. And with the cost of film and paper, the less tests you have to make printing costs you less money. And, you can simply make better prints.
Do you regularly train for trekking long distances with heavy equipment in your backpack?
Yes, pretty much work out every day just to stay fit.
That ICE CLIMBER in color was OUTSTANDING, I love BW but to me the color photo was the winner!
Thank you.
Thank you for the exposure/development information, great video
Where is the link to purchase that beanie?
I really enjoy your videos
Beautiful image, i like the one with the climber.
I use same Chamonix N2, even though i never bring it for hiking i think it would be perfect companion.
Thanks for sharing Todd
Yes they're a great camera. Thank you for watching.
Impressive Pictures...go om! Greetings
Aside from the excellent information, this is a unique way to see some beautiful scenery.
Thanks, this part of the country is amazing.
Great video Todd. I've wanted to go back to Johnson Canyon again, since I haven't been there for a long time. I love the whole process of shooting, developing the film, and then printing in the darkroom. I test my film as per BTZS, as taught by Phil Davis, and then I meter the scene using an incident meter reading. The zone reading works as well.
Yes that BTZS system is really good, I also like the system Mat Marrash did with the Stouffer wedge system, check out his video.
I was surprised to see you don't meter the blacks, per se, but the darker mid-tones. Duly noted. One of the chamonix 4x5's are going to be mine here soon. Looking forward to practicing these techniques and putting to use all the great tips you are kind enough to share. Thanks Todd.
On second thought, if it is "black" it should meter the same every time. So you would never meter the blacks per se. Is that right? With digital, I am so used to protecting the highlights and "exposing to the right" that I never think about the other side of the histogram.
@@JamesAndrewMacGlashanTaylor expose for the shadows, develop for highlights in B&W film photography opposite of digital with ETTR method. If scene is flat meaning 3 EV of difference, add dev time multiply by 1.4 (30% more), if contrasted 7 or 8 EV delta: divide by .6 or .7. if you fit in 5 EV, just dev default time
Great video. Thank you !
Hi Tood, what a great start into the new week! Many thanks for showing and telling us so many details.
As a backpack I use a f-stop bag pack which I do really like because of all the fine details. The only thing is how to transport the tripod, that's a thing which has to be improved.
Your metering method is quite interesting and follows of course the rules of the zone system. I use the same spot meter and made a sticker with greysteps on it, than I meter darkest and brightest area to see how many f-stops are inbetween. Sekonic has an average metering calculator which then tells me where the exposure could be. Depending on blacks and whites I can use this meter reading also for deciding developing N or N+/-.
Yes all great ways to do it. The thing I always tell photographers is there are many ways to get to the correct exposure, really no way is the right and only way, the right way is your process that gets you the results you want. I am trying to get people to think of how light is hitting the subject and a process you can take and develop into your own way. And yes, a backpack has got to carry a tripod somehow, it's a must for me. Thanks for watching. ;-)
Another great and informative video Todd, and congrats to Mrs Korol for the added cinematography, credit to her too :) it was a team effort. :) :)
She's trying hard to learn, it makes doing these so much easier, need to put her on the payroll! ;-)
@@toddkorolphoto Yes it must help in not having to return after each take, plus the added weight of the camera and tripods etc, good work Mrs Korol, oh and your photographer friend doesn't to bad either ;)
you put snow in zone VII, I would put it into zone VIII that means 3 stops but that means shadows could be lighter. Am I wrong to put snow in zone VIII ?
You are not wrong as long as you get the results you want. 😉
@@toddkorolphoto smart
Hi Todd, finally a very helpful lesson about how to read for BW photography, THANKS! One question: wich camera you used for the images in color? They are incredible sharp!!! Thanks again!
Thanks, it was a Sony A7RIII, 24-70mm F/4 lens.
@@toddkorolphoto thanks
Wow! Thanks for taking us along and for sharing your knowledge!
You’re welcome, and thanks for watching.
This was very informative! Thanks Todd!
That's great to hear, thanks for the note.
Very informative video, Todd!
How do you write down the exposure data on the film holders?
Cheers!
When I tape my dark slides down so they don't slide up, I mark it on the artist tape I use.
Excellent vidéo, thank you
Thanks so much, cheers!
Hi Todd, Thanks for your video as always
You're welcome, thank you for watching.
I have an old german lightmeter (no spot reading), will that be enough or is a spot meter a must? Thank you for the vid, great as always :)
As long as you meter is accurate, just think about how you are reading the light with it.
@@toddkorolphoto thanks, that's what I thought. I just got my 5x7 and honestly, getting a spot meter on top of all those spendings would be the last thing I need :P
@@Frantixj Love 5x7, I have been using mine a lot last year.
@@toddkorolphoto felt like the best choice, 8x10 is way too expensive now and there're less negs to choose from
❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉🎉
🙏🙏🙏
You are amazing, thank you
Thanks for watching along!!
Amazing video! Keep it up!
Many thanks!
Great video! As a back country skier and hiker who has gotten back into 4x5, I am curious about your pack set-up. I too find that camera specific packs are not well suited to back country travel. I'm currently using a Patagonia Acsentionist that I adapted with an old closed cell pad, but I am looking for a better set-up.
Cheers!
Thanks. I actually found that the Deuter (unsponsored) I was using in the video was just a touch small at 30L, so I just got this new Deuter Freescape Pro 40+ and it's great for doing this backcountry work with gear and the supplies you need. I like Deuter packs because they fit my frame well.
@@toddkorolphoto Thanks...I just took a look at that Deuter and it seems to tick all the boxes. I wasn't expecting to find one that would suit my camera gear and have a "wet room" for avy gear.
@@glennpace9783 Oh sweet, if you're in Canada, I get my outdoor gear from here sequoiasupply.ca/outdoors/ They can get anything you need for packs and outdoor stuff.
@@toddkorolphoto yes...I'm on the west coast. I actually went over to MEC and took a look. I also saw a 34L version...I'll go down there with my gear and see how it fits....though the 40L looks like it holds an F-Stop insert much better (thickness), and there's room for food, water, and a puffy jacket as well.
Great video Todd. Wondering what tripod head you are using.
It's the Benro GD3WH 3-Way Geared Head, works really well.
@@toddkorolphoto I use a Toyo GII so I am wondering what tripod head I should get.
@@KAUSTUBH447 Yes that head would work great.
@@toddkorolphoto Thanks Todd. I will consider buying it then.
Good stuff. Thanks Todd
Thanks for watching!
Hi Todd, much appreciate you sharing your process. Just curious as to why you used a 3-way head instead of a ballhead? Is it for fine-tuning?
Yes especially with large format it is just easier to fine tune the composition. Too many times a ball head lets loose and you have to start from scratch , although sometimes I still use a ball head for speed.
Great video as always! My wife and I visited Johnston Canyon at the end of December, unfortunately it was extremely cold that day and we didn’t make it to the upper falls. Next time!
Yes go back, it’s well worth it. 👍
Wonderful to see another video from you Todd. What specific Deuter backpack are you using?
Thanks it's called a Deuter Act Trail 30. But, I have found it a little too small for all my gear in the winter time, so I have now gone to a Deuter Freescape Pro 40+.
Todd, thank you for taking us along. The photographs were wonderful. Thanks for the metering tutorial! Incredibly helpful.
Once again thank you. Making these videos is time consuming and a lot of hard work but don’t ever think it goes unappreciated.
Quick question, so I am shooting roll film and don’t have the luxury of developing for each frame. In situations like the waterfall, what would you have given more weight to, the shadow or highlight? My printing intuition says favor highlights because I can burn in shadow but if I blow out highlights there is nothing to work with. But my intuition is often faulty. So once again what would you do if you were using 6x6?
Well actually I do work with a lot of roll film as well, sometimes you can keep track of your roll, and if it's all shot under the same conditions you can still alter the development of that roll. Another good way it to average the shadow meter reading and highlight meter reading, and that is a safe way to go as well.
you are the best I enjoyed watching real photographers
That is very kind! Thank you 🙏
Thanks for the video Todd. You inspire me every time with your video"s. They stick in my mind!
Seriously that is so kind, thank you. Just keeps me going when I hear feedback like that ;-)
the first five minutes are off topic