Its odd to see her not start. My t300 starts easy most times, had her running today. I changed the leads to the plugs and she ran 10x better afterwards. I wasnt having to rev the nuts off of it.
Ignition timing? Dare I even suggest valve timing? Just looking at the exhaust pipes, the paint is in perfect condition - It doesn't look like that engine has ever been run since it was last painted. What's the compression pressures looking like? Realistically, as long as all of the above are correct, then surely, it would at least pop and fart on the bit of fuel you've squirted in there, so even if that little brass piece was important for the engine to run right, it wouldn't be enough to stop it from firing and spluttering for a few seconds - Or would it? I mean, you can get an engine to fire up without a carb fitted at all, so even if the carb is awry, it still shouldn't stop the engine from making enthusiastic noises! Are those plugs actually sparking under pressure, I wonder? In fact, it would do no harm to try a different condenser, even if only to prove that the original one is still good. If it comes to that, I still haven't seen the spark! So, I have to ask you, is it a good big fat blue spark? Or a thin weedy grey/white one? Just chucking everything at it here, because otherwise, it makes no sense.
The brass bit! it looks like it broke from the top of the emulsion tube holder, this is why the holder was loose when you removed it. Maybe need to solder it together again. This may also explain your fuel drip.
That small round component with the hole in it is apparently needed. Maybe above the float or in that piece when putting the float bowl on the carburator.
That's not a priming tap, it's for an autovac system. On these the 2 carb halves have a tendency to warp and draw air, they can be flattened back with some wet and dry on a sheet of glass. Also I wouldn't trust a "blue spark" from that mag, I'd have a mutimeter out to check the resistance and even then think of having it reconned at that age.
You don't need to prime with fuel, mines never needed it, make sure to turn the throttle screw to the left as if not the carb is closed throttle no need to jam anything in it just turn it to left for max throttle. Also get rid of that dangerous handle or at least saw the crank of and make it fit a drill.
Ht leads are a bit suspicious to me, you may well be earthing somewhere probably just a good idea to change them anyway tends to make engines run a bit better, also that brass peice has to be causing the fuel leak due to the fact it was leaking before you even pressed the tickler so good luck finding out 👍
ah okay you said you were going to flush the gas tank, nice.
I really enjoy watching your videos. We are much alike, learning as we go on these old engines!
Change h-t leads
I would sort the starting handle see if you can get the drill make it spin fastet
Its odd to see her not start. My t300 starts easy most times, had her running today. I changed the leads to the plugs and she ran 10x better afterwards. I wasnt having to rev the nuts off of it.
Ignition timing? Dare I even suggest valve timing? Just looking at the exhaust pipes, the paint is in perfect condition - It doesn't look like that engine has ever been run since it was last painted. What's the compression pressures looking like?
Realistically, as long as all of the above are correct, then surely, it would at least pop and fart on the bit of fuel you've squirted in there, so even if that little brass piece was important for the engine to run right, it wouldn't be enough to stop it from firing and spluttering for a few seconds - Or would it? I mean, you can get an engine to fire up without a carb fitted at all, so even if the carb is awry, it still shouldn't stop the engine from making enthusiastic noises!
Are those plugs actually sparking under pressure, I wonder? In fact, it would do no harm to try a different condenser, even if only to prove that the original one is still good.
If it comes to that, I still haven't seen the spark! So, I have to ask you, is it a good big fat blue spark? Or a thin weedy grey/white one?
Just chucking everything at it here, because otherwise, it makes no sense.
CHECK THE SPARK AGAIN, USE A DRILL TO SPIN IT OVER FASTER, THE BRASS BUTTON LOOKED TO ME IT HAS BROKEN OFF FROM SOME WHERE .
Think the brass piece came out of the fuel line to the carb
The brass bit! it looks like it broke from the top of the emulsion tube holder, this is why the holder was loose when you removed it. Maybe need to solder it together again. This may also explain your fuel drip.
Spot on mate. All be shown in the next video. 😀
That small round component with the hole in it is apparently needed. Maybe above the float or in that piece when putting the float bowl on the carburator.
Having a good spark outside the cylinder does not always prove a good spark under compression. Put some new leads on it.
Maybe to little extra brass bit goes in the fuel feed hole
That's what I was thinking Napchop.
Also ya'll need to remagnetise the magnets in the magneto for stronger spark.
That's not a priming tap, it's for an autovac system. On these the 2 carb halves have a tendency to warp and draw air, they can be flattened back with some wet and dry on a sheet of glass. Also I wouldn't trust a "blue spark" from that mag, I'd have a mutimeter out to check the resistance and even then think of having it reconned at that age.
You don't need to prime with fuel, mines never needed it, make sure to turn the throttle screw to the left as if not the carb is closed throttle no need to jam anything in it just turn it to left for max throttle. Also get rid of that dangerous handle or at least saw the crank of and make it fit a drill.
Maybe change ht leads with only stainless steel center conductor. You can buy a roll of 10 ft. and you'll be set for life.
are you cranking the Engine the right direction?
Perhaps a shot or two of starting fluid/WD?
Ht leads are a bit suspicious to me, you may well be earthing somewhere probably just a good idea to change them anyway tends to make engines run a bit better, also that brass peice has to be causing the fuel leak due to the fact it was leaking before you even pressed the tickler so good luck finding out 👍
Hi Tommy take the carb off again and check.
Never use full choke in summer with older engines