How To Oil Wash Miniatures
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- Опубліковано 11 лют 2025
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Chance, Luck, Errors in Nature, Fate, Destruction As a Finale de Chris Zabriskie cuenta con una licencia Creative Commons Atribución 4.0. creativecommon...
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Hi, after years of watching painting videos, I have never come across your channel! I am now watching them all and I can't believe you don't have a larger audience. I hope your channel continues to grow in the future because your tutorials are fantastic!
thank you very much, comments like this are what keep me going 😁
The tip on feathering seems really handy, I'll have to give it a try.
glad it was, hope you find it useful
Yep. Coulda been me doing the cape in this vid, it's identical. Never ever never thought of the feathering tho, pretty cool.
@@Boon200 Thank you
I just bought a set of Oil paints and washes and have been nervous about trying them out, cant wait to try out what you showed!
hope it comes out great!
Rather than using a black paint (like Ivory black, Mars black, etc) I prefer to use a chromatic black which is basically mixing 2 complementary colors together. I've tried successfully 2 mixes.
1/ Burnt umber + French ultramarine: ratio 1:2, but that can be altered to your need. More blue will give a cold black, more brown will make it warmer
2/ Quinacridone red + Phthalo green: I can't remember the ratio I used, but same principle, more red will give a warm black, and more green will make it cooler.
Thanks for the explanations. I am in the scale model hobby but some details were eluding me when it comes to oil wash !
Glad you found the video helpful
Nice video mate. I love how thorough you are with your analysis and explanations.
Thank you, tried to leave as little unanswered questions as possible
I tired oil paints after watching this. I painted some 10mm warmaster miniatures and it worked perfectly. The tiny crevices held the oil amazingly. I can’t imagine doing it any other way now
Very happy to hear the video was helpful, thank you for sharing it :)
Thank you for a great tutorial video! Glad the algorithm showed me this
Happy to hear you found it helpful
Not entirely clear why so many people say this method is superior to shade washes. This way still leaves residue and it rushes quickly into the deepest contours that it finds, so it doesn't shade in gradients as smoothly and you still have to whisk it up to 'clean it' with mineral spirits and a Q-tip. The shade wash way dries too fast to clean up, but it leaves more gradual shading (from deepest contour to highest ridge) and the "clean up" instead involves re-applying a layer coat or applying a drybrush or stipple on top to recover the color.
It seems like these two methods can both achieve good shading, and neither are necessarily objectively better. I could *maybe* see how oils would be better for Stormtroopers and for shading really delicate and ultra-bright minis, but when applying to an entire model...when I watch videos like this I'm like "This just looks like shade washing but with different steps.
Maybe I'm wrong, but it's not jumping out at me.
To me, the primary difference is acrylic washes cannot be reactivated. This feature in oils or enamels allows one to rework, improve, or even redo the wash.
This is a really good tutorial! Thank you so much for the clear instructions and high quality visuals. I liked the background music too. Really good, I’m definitely subbing for more.
thank you very much!
Looks awesome and it's cool to see how diverse this method can be used. Looking forward to try a red coat with this technic!
Thank you, glad you liked it
I love trying out oil washes. A very thin black works great for me on bone.
Excellent tutorial. Simple and straight to the point. Well worth a sub - thanks!!
Glad you found it helpful
One thing that you did not mention is, WHAT is the appropriate time to wait, before cleaning?
he did mention it, half and hour to and hour
@scarecrowhunter2718 Thank you , yes, I did apologize. Saw it later on in the video.
Fantastic tutorial my friend. This is really helpful as I have always wanted to try oil paints. Thank you!
happy to hear, hope you get awesome results. feel free to ask any questions you may come upon
You did an amazing job 👍👍
Thank You
Legendary standard video. Thank you!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it
Very helpful video and I love the background music :)
thank you, glad you liked it
another great video man. please keep them coming.
Got a lot prepared when my skaventide box arrives, aiming to realese 2 vid per week during the season 😉
Is there a video that can go over how to decide what color to choose when applying oil washes? Im not very well versed in knowing what colors to choose for this type of thing
There's not but thats a good suggestion, ill keep it in mind for a video in the future. For now feel free to ask and ill give you some insight according to what you are painting
Nice eye opener
Really good video
thank you very much
Thanks so much! Finally ready to dive into this technique.
I’ve seen elsewhere that most people recommend varnishing the model before applying oil washes. Do you not find this necessary?
Glad you found the video helpful
I never varnish, but doing so wont hurt you in any way. A gloss varnish is specially useful if you want to get a very precise pin wash on a panel armor for example.
Your video was excelent. Thanks for the guide and the tips.
At the start, do you thin your paint with white spirit or oil?
Sorry but i didn't get it if you explained that...
Happy you liked the video, and dont worry ask as much as you like. Allways thinning with white spirits, never adding more oil(and if you see too much oil leave the amount you'll use on a piece of carboad to soak it up)
@ thank you very much for the reply and for the advice
Is there a requirement to apply a varnish before starting the oil paint process
Never have done so. Will recommend a gloss one if you are looking to do a super clean pin wash but ill be talking about pinwashing with oils soon
Hello, could you tell me how to dilute the oil paint, is it with white spirit? And to remove the excess is it with alcohol? thank you
Yes, dilute with white spirits and what do you mean with removing the exess? The clean up afterter is also done eaither with a clean qtip or make up sponge or with white spirits to remove even more
Thx for the video. I tried this with a model but i don´t like the glossy finish came from the oil paint and WS. It´s there some mask or liquid oil mate finish to aply after?. I tried some mask with an acrylic water based but it doesn't work
That ahppens sometimes with some colors o depending on the dilution. Iuse vallejo matt polyurethane varnish through the airbrush to kill the glossines and get an even look
@@resourcefulminiatures That´s awsome. Thanks a lot
Amazing video! Love oil washes... cant stop using them everywhere.
Ive ruined lot of miniatures without details (like chibi style ones)... but is so much fun. 😂
Thank you, well waht matter is for you to enjoy it in the end
Hi, thanks for the helpful vid. Is it necessary to varnish the model before applying oils?
I'm curious about this question too. At what points in the process do you varnish and what types of varnish (matt, gloss). Thanks for another great video!
i never varnish, so it isnt necessary. A gloss varnish before oils can help the wash run into recesses mucch neater(ofter aused for space amrines pinwashing and a mate one can be used at the end to kill any sheen the oils may leave)
@@robfader2432 i never varnish, so it isnt necessary. A gloss varnish before oils can help the wash run into recesses mucch neater(ofter aused for space amrines pinwashing and a mate one can be used at the end to kill any sheen the oils may leave)
very nicely done!!
Thank you
2:20, What green oil is being used here its exactly what im looking for, cheers
its a combination of black, burn umber and cadmium green
can the cleanup also be done after the oil color is fully cured?
no, you'll end up scratching the paint away, depending on the color and amount you may have up to 8 hours of work time
I did this and loved the results. However as I was cleaning up one spot I took off the base coat. Thoughts on what I may have done wrong?
scartched too hard, remeber acrylics while dry do take even more time to properly cure. Next time try rolling the q tip over the surface, if you did this already, then dont press to hard. Let me know if this was helpful
@resourcefulminiatures I did not think about cure time TY
I'd love to see you try some of these techniques on smaller models. I mostly paint / game in 15mm and the problem I have is oil washes tend to just make them drab messes at that scale. Except vehicles of course, but the infantry always just look bleh if I use oils to wash them.
Try Windsor and newton inks - better for infantry figures at the smaller scales imho
been meaning on trying my hand at 15mm will keep it in mind 😉
@@davidwasilewski Yeah I've given them a shot before, in fact the W&N white is what I like to use for my zenithaling. They act more like traditional washes, which isn't necessarily a bad thing.
So you think I could use a red oil wash for space marine helmet eyes? Cause I'm painting a white one right now and I keeep messing up cause the helmet I have is 3d printed ane the eyes are a bit smaller. So I thought maybe I can use a oil wash and then just clean up after?
I've never used a oil wash before but I have a black oil paint I want to try by Winton
Hey, ill tell you something better, try my "water trick":
ua-cam.com/video/PI8iNOfC2J4/v-deo.htmlsi=bnC1yTDDZoIIVwMD
ua-cam.com/video/ZPPfB24P8Ro/v-deo.htmlsi=G1POgeNcEUGniWJb
Since you are working over white this could be safer, plus you dont have to go buy a new product if you already have a red paint, let me know if this helps you out.
@@resourcefulminiatures you think that would work better than an oil wash? I mean its a great idea I'll give it a try
@@JGburneraccount You'll save youserself the cleaning part, and some time, but both could work
Excellent video!
I just got back into building scale model kits after several decades and I just did my first weathering attempt ever with oils this weekend. I think I did an ok job and hope to get better.
What do you use to clean of your oil brushes?
i use a bit of thinner in a cup to remove the paint and just dry it against a paper towel. I use cheap hobby brushes to work with oils since i dont tento to do very fine work which requires precision
Thanks for this, I like the different approaches.
What drying times can we expect, and what thinners are best to use?
depedning on dilution from 30 min to 1 and a half hours should do the trick for either allowing the spirits to evaporate or allow the oils to get a grip for a multi stage cleanup, it will really vary between colors, im still learning the tiems on each of my more exotic colors. thinner wise white spirits will do i think, i use the odorless artist one made for oils since smells can be quite toxic(national brand nothing special)
Great! Do you recommend any particular oil paints? Brands? Sets? Thanks!
I've used the cheapest national brand ones and gotten great results so go ahead and get what you find the easiest or better adapts to your budget. Abteilung 502 (while not available were i live) seem to be the best ones since they are designed for miniatures and dont contain as much oils. Other than that i suggest you begin with a black, brown and green(if you look at my grimdark tutorials youll see im allways mixing them together) and i can say Winsor n Newton artist color "Indigo" is the best option for a blue shadows
@@resourcefulminiatures I am going to have a look! Thank you very much!
My problem is that the contrast paints underneath is dissolving. Am i using to much spirits when i clean up when I should use no spirits at all?
Never had this problem before but i dont use contrast. Spirits shouldnt react with acrylics. How much time went by from the application of the contrast to the cleaning of the oils? some time acrylics while dry need even more time to cure. Worst case scenario you'll have to varnish in between layers
Late reply, but you probably need to varnish to protect the contrast paint.
It's not dissolving, but being rubbed away, because contrast paint makes very thin and delicate layers.
Do you varnish before adding the oil?
I dont, if you are gentle, basecoat wont be damaged
Should have mentioned that you can use a hair dryer to expedite that initial drying before reduction
yo that mini is siiiiick
Thank you
Where are the minis from?
@@Salamigott1 bestiarum miniatures "lone heroes"
awesome. can you maybe do a video on painting yellow and white cloaks? grimdark style. thanks!
sure can! on the to do list
@@resourcefulminiatures thanks so much!! they have been giving me problems in the grimdark style
Great video! I've always had bad luck with oil washes, when I move to the removal somehow the primer is removed too, even if I'm using mineral spirit that should not interact with it. So in the end I'm always careful to use them for the recesses only, or I will end un with an overall wash I can't remove from the miniature.
I have had the same issue, and i have just startet using glossy varnish before oilwash and matte varnish before setting the higlight with acrylic paints.
havent had this issue myself, i use oddorless artist spirits and prime with cheap hobby paints
@resourcefulminiatures @axellupton I've heard somewhere that is probably due to the fact that all acrylic paints can somehow partially reactivate with liquids in general, so I was probably too harsh with the sponge/removal in general I guess.
Traditional oil painter here. Water based acrylics should be left to fully cure for a couple of days before oils are put over the top. Water based paint may become touch dry in minutes but the chemical changes that cause it to fully cure and become waterproof etc can take a few days/temperature etc. Recent studies show that oil paints can crack when curing over acrylic base coats, and of course using a water based acrylic over an oil has some fairly large risks too, there's a reason traditional painters don't do it.
I've seen a lot of weird behaviour of people trying to remove a lot of the oil binder from the paint using cardboard which ultimately weakens the paint film as does using a lot of thinners.
I know a lot of miniature painters are not worried how long the minis will last as they usually change army every few months anyway but that said, I see a lot of mini painters doing things that are highly unlikely to last especially if these are for gaming and will be touched a lot, placed in and out of figure cases etc.
What's the advantage of using a makeup sponge versus a q-tip? Furthermore, when is it preferable to use one over the other?
In my experience qtips are good for detail work or as shown loading with thinner to get more oil off the model's specific spots. But they don't last as long and if you're aggressive with it can start stringing the cotton on pointy models. Sponges are great for larger areas but it's harder (to me anyway) to tell visually how much thinner is loaded on them. I also tend to cut mine into smaller triangles not only to get more uses out of them and for chipping armor.
I find that the little eye shadow sponges work much better than Q-tips. No risk of leaving little cotton remnants behind on your minis
bit of what both of the other fellas said, q tips can leave cotton strands when working over pointy areas(im suing ones wich are quite compact) and are better for more detail work. Make up sponges are good for wider areas with less details like cloaks or, like on the muscles from my wendigo video, big models in general. Both can get some spirits to enhance the cleaning but i prefer using the sponges (which wont get all the work done) and remove a further layer with the q tips for a multi stage process. Alternatively you cna cut the make up sponges to fit smaller details, the can be less agressive than the q tip. Dont have experience with the little eye shadow sponges myself
Cool 🖌
thank you
Amazing miniatures! Where can i find them? Are they part of a set?
they are "lone heroes" from bestiarum miniatures
@@resourcefulminiatures thank you man! Your channel is super!
@@riccardobaricchi8238 thnakyou, gladyou find it entretaining
wheres that mini from? It looks sick! Love it!
I would also like to know, they look so cool
Bestiarum miniatures "lone heroes"
@@ghazevedo Bestiarum miniatures "lone heroes"
weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!
Sorry, caught it later on half to one hour.
No problem, will probably revisit this at some point this year adding a couple things more as well as making the structure of the content more clean
Easiest subscribe of my life!
Thank You!
Doesn't turpentine melt plastic? I have never tried oil paints but I have that doubt
I would not use turpentine anyway but other mineral spirits ( possibly odorless), in any case the acrilic primer and layers will protect the plastic
@@francescogiovannimura7621 Thank you very much
@@Liritht to add more info: right now I have some artist white spirits but I am not sure if they are considered turpentine 🤔. I think what I used before (acquaragia) could be considere turpentine but I am not sure, nor I tried it on "naked" plastic, in any case they gave me issues on already painted minatures. Anyway, if you are in doubt you could experiment on some sprues first 🤔
i used artist odorless spirits for the whole of my space marine army and didnt find any issues, cant say about more aggresive spirits but havent heard someone bring it up before