Had to come back and thank this video. Did this job yesterday, yes aftermarket axles are cheap. I wanted to try and save the oem, unfortunately it had golf ball dimple from the bearing in the “cradle” not sure what you would call that. Anyways thank you for posting. Added fun the 2013 has a shield around the inner so you can’t shift it to the side. Had to lower the steering knuckle.
Mention to the viewers to carefully inspect the cage for any divots where the balls contact it. That will cause a clicking while turning that cannot be corrected and a rebuilt or new joint will be the only option.
I did this job this past weekend and had a comment and a question. Mine was the passenger side (U.S.) and there is a cast aluminum shield bolted to the transaxle preventing the axle from moving enough to get the axle out. I had to remove it first. Three Allen head bolts that are a real PITA to get to but with enough wobble joints I was able to get an Allen socket on them. Getting them aligned and threaded to put them back in was torture. My question is about the heat glazing on the outside of the CV bearing cup. I was concerned that this joint had failed from overheating, but a closer look @8:22 shows the same discoloration on the bearing cup you have. Is this normal or should I be ordering a new axle before it fails? I cleaned the old one up and took a scotch-brite to it after cleaning the grease off. This video saved me over a $1000 and that was after ordering the axle tools including the 19mm Allen head drive and the set of triple-square sockets. 👍
@@PhillipBailey In the vise and a slide hammer...cake. I'm no "Licensed mechanic", but in over 40 years I never hammered on a CV. ua-cam.com/video/rMl3CMm4Qkc/v-deo.html
Had to come back and thank this video. Did this job yesterday, yes aftermarket axles are cheap. I wanted to try and save the oem, unfortunately it had golf ball dimple from the bearing in the “cradle” not sure what you would call that. Anyways thank you for posting. Added fun the 2013 has a shield around the inner so you can’t shift it to the side. Had to lower the steering knuckle.
Great tip on shaft removal one to remember thanks 👍
Mention to the viewers to carefully inspect the cage for any divots where the balls contact it. That will cause a clicking while turning that cannot be corrected and a rebuilt or new joint will be the only option.
Good point. You are correct.
Very well explained Bro!
I did this job this past weekend and had a comment and a question. Mine was the passenger side (U.S.) and there is a cast aluminum shield bolted to the transaxle preventing the axle from moving enough to get the axle out. I had to remove it first. Three Allen head bolts that are a real PITA to get to but with enough wobble joints I was able to get an Allen socket on them. Getting them aligned and threaded to put them back in was torture. My question is about the heat glazing on the outside of the CV bearing cup. I was concerned that this joint had failed from overheating, but a closer look @8:22 shows the same discoloration on the bearing cup you have. Is this normal or should I be ordering a new axle before it fails? I cleaned the old one up and took a scotch-brite to it after cleaning the grease off. This video saved me over a $1000 and that was after ordering the axle tools including the 19mm Allen head drive and the set of triple-square sockets. 👍
That blueing is due to factory heat treating of the part and is normal. Thanks for the tips on the right side shield.
Did this exact job at the weekend on my Q5...getting that extra 180 degrees on the hub bolt cannot be under estimated, it's a bitch of a job!
NEVER hammer on an inner race. Thread the axle bolt all the way in and it will push the joint past the spring clip...NEVER HAMMER!
Noted...that would work on this style CV joint but what about the other style with a threaded nut?
@@PhillipBailey In the vise and a slide hammer...cake. I'm no "Licensed mechanic", but in over 40 years I never hammered on a CV. ua-cam.com/video/rMl3CMm4Qkc/v-deo.html
Thanks for the tip and video link. Much appreciated.
Nice job 👍
Thanks for watching.
Done many reboots til shafts became so cheap.
this one is not so cheap here. cost is $300 boot is $20.
@@PhillipBailey Yes, cost was a factor in 99% of my clientele.
Too many ads…
Sorry about that.