If you’re looking for a more technical look at the S1 make sure you watch Nathan Builds Robots video ua-cam.com/video/EXL7ZqsYrYw/v-deo.htmlsi=2nfYIjefUa0sYckG
If I had to guess, it would seem that you’d need to tune it to slow down for certain parts of the print while retaining the fast print for others - ( take advantage of of the speed while maintaining the fine print control)
If you know how to and with the right printer like my vz bot with a super high flow hotend faster than this printing voron parts that snap together perfectly while printing fast with quality
It looks very promising. The failing supports are easy to solve in the slicer settings, so FLSun should just do that to their presets. Slower acceleration and jerk for support and a bit lower print speed. But the issue where supports, fail to adhere to the bed especially tree supports, is due to the acceleration and jerk settings.
It's incredible how good the Bambu prints look. I got a Flsun SR for myself one year ago and upgraded to a Bambu P1. The print quality, as well as the print profiles, are so much better on the P1. I will never go back
A giant, ultra loud, high speed printer (that can't actually print fast) with a clunky version of a slicer that has been around for years with profiles that don't work and they're charging $200 more? WHAT'S NOT TO LOVE?!
Thank you for posting this! I've been waiting (impatiently haha) since I saw your unboxing! I ordered one at the sale price and I'm hoping it ships soon! I'm glad to know you are getting feedback, back to them. It seems like they hurried to get this out the door ahead of the Prusa HT90 and whatever Bambu comes out with next. A lot of the problems people seem to be having with it are all software - whether it's the slicer or the firmware. I also heard the install of klipper and mainsail on it are old versions too and they haven't unlocked SSH yet either. But with it being so brand new, I can't help but hope that a year from now, this will all be old news? The fact that it's already sold out again I hope is a good sign! Thank you for continuing to use it despite the issues and for sending your feedback to them, I'm sure it's helping!
I expect that the "texture" you are experiencing is due to the stepper motors microstepping resolution. Unlike standard x-y-z slignbed or xy-yx-z corexy configurations, deltas are a z-z-z configuration. So the kinematics of the arms' parallelogram create axises that behave as arcs. Hense the carbon fiber 45 degree texture. In other words, the step-drivers need tuning. Try printing a cylinder.
Remember with deltas, the advertised height of build volume is only directly in the middle. Build volume isn’t a perfect cylinder. Its a dome at the top
I owned the V400 from FLSUN, and I will try to keep away from any of their products in the future. I’ve had so many issues out of nowhere with the quality. The supports kept failing over and over for no reason. The filament wouldn’t stick to the plate. The leveling procedure was DUMB and didn’t keep the nozzle level even for a couple of small prints (z-offset kept getting off randomly). I’m not even talking about the lack of accuracy, which is a common problem for deltas. Software and support feel like a 'basement factory' amateur. It's a huge headache. No, thank you, I’ll stick to Bambulabs.
So, slow the print speed to something more normal and use Orca Slicer and I'm guessing it would be maybe 75% better, just with doing those things. And FLSUN supposedly just released a big firmware update to correct a bunch of issues with this printer, so it would be interesting to see a follow up video on how those changes may (or may not) have improved this machine. The issue with the profiles sounds like FLSUN is playing catch-up and maybe fielded the product too soon. I'm hoping they'll just ditch their slicer and develop solid profiles for Orca for everybody to use. If they could dial-in this thing to X1C-level user experience and print quality, I'd order one ASAP. I just love the delta design. I don't care so much about the speed, especially since it seems to come at the expense of quality. Better to take a little longer and have a nice result than to go really fast and have the result look like garbage...or fail altogether.
Thats the problem I find with Nikko Industries, all the files are out of scale and it's such a pain when you have a build plate full of parts, it's quite hard to determine how much to scale it, and then he won't reply to messages when you ask about it.
I wonder if the weird texture is due to vibration at the higher speed? Maybe they need some kind of damper base/pad if it can't compensate enough for it. Bambu has the feet, just a theory
I don't own a 3d printer (yet,) but own multiple laser engravers. Don't know if this could apply to 3d printers, but is worth mentioning. I was getting strange lines in my engravings across all my machines, so I knew it couldn't be a calibration or mechanical issue. After much toiling and gnashing of teeth, i realized it was the shitty/old wiring in my shop. I ended up having to put my lasers behind battery backups to smooth out the power they were getting and weird lines went away.
hey uncle Jessy, my process for loading filament is to push the filament till it stops, then put the roll on the holder. the hardware is very good, but the firmware, software wise needs more fine tuning. the S1 needs a 0.6mm nozzle profile!
Now can you review the t1? The s1 is now $1500 and the t1 is $600 it might get more people to buy it because it is less than half the price and it still goes 1000mm/s
Proud picture of member commenting to Support on the video and the crazy guy that takes his magnetos‘s twin. I’m very glad with the innovation of this printer. I will not be buying it however, I’ll stick with my elgoo & Bambu printers for now. Be well be you.
I have the V400 and due to the Delta setup (I think), the supports are knocked over much easier than on a cartesian printer. That's also why you need to use Gyroid infill, otherwise it scrapes..
I have a v400 and its fine. Its better than my neptune 4 plus but worse than my bambu p1s. Definitely have to use gyroid infill. Only one that worked for me. The print quality is decent and it has good speed. I wouldn't drop a grand on this tho. Been doing a lot more resin printing these days. For me you can't beat bambu right now.
Looks like it needs some refinemnt before considering purchasing.The noise levels seems to be the biggest negative factor to me. The rest can be resolved with future firmware and slicer tweaks.
I have a feeling that your support failure may have been from the pressure from the CPAP fan not working well with the tree supports since it creates a hollow tube
On the update problem after the usb install, check that your wifi is still connected. I had that problem and found that the update had disconnected me from the internet, so I click to connect again and it updated with no problem
Does need alot of work however i 1000% do see the day were we are able to print out helmets sub 8 hours. Technology is only getting better, the community is only growing more and weve already come so so far in just the last few years alone
In my opinion I expect to see the S1 start off pretty rough. It is going to take Flsun or the community a while to really refine the slicer settings for this printer. A similar thing happened with the v400, their original firmware for it had some issues and had big issues on the dimensional accuracy. The latest firmware, which took almost a year fixed all the issues. Again my experience and my opinion
Is the problem here the printer it self or the filament? It seems that the filament can't handle the speed of the printer, maybe with high speed filament it will print just fine
yeah but imagine you're trying to print something else.. and will never be able to get a decent surface finish. I'd rather go 24 hours vs 12 but have all that effort amount to something I can use. your printer shouldnt be stuck on fuzzy skin.
Great review, I just found the physical size of this printer ridiculous for its print capacity. This has always been the problem with Delta-style printers. Also, I am not sure what is acceptable regarding quality these days, but none of the prints of that machine would be good enough for my shop.
Hey @UncleJessy - great video! I want FLSUN to succeed it’s the only Delta exponent in the market and 3D Printing as a whole benefit from different systems competing - I just watched a couple of other S1 reviews, they are on par with what you felt: the machine is almost there, needs fine tuning in the profiles. About the slicer: this obsession from making their own software is maddening. QIDI also did that, it’s infuriating. Time and energy in the wrong direction. An “almost usable” slicer is a slicer nobody cares.
I have this printer, the issue is the flow rate. I limit pla flow rate to 30mms3 and everything resolves. The advertised 110 is based on the rapido styles heater they have and that has the same issue.
14:05 You need to reserve the printer's IP in your routers DHCP server lease reservations page..... Otherwise the DHCP lease will expire and your printer will get handed out a new IP every 24 hours or 1 week or whatever... You should do this from a top-down perspective and not from the bottom of perspective (of reserving the IP on the printer)
I imbedded magnets in my T-Rex plaque to attach to my fridge. If you do that you're going to need a bigger fridge! That's an insane size, where on earth are you going to put that?
The problem with that printer is that the arms are attached to the bottom of the toolhead making it (toolhead) top heavy. When it changes direction the toolhead will want to "nod" in the direction it was previously going. If you attach the arms to the toolheads balancing point it would not do that. It should be somewhere at 70% from the bottom since the extruder motor is up top I'm assuming. If it's bowden it should be a bit lower. Fixing this would improve print quality immensly. You can see evidence of this by printing the top layers with fast speeds and accels. They will not look very good, meanwhile if the toolhead is balanced and everything is stiff you should not be able to see which was the top layer and which was the bottom layer. I saw the Prusa delta printer and it looks much better as the motor is very low down and also the toolhead is not as tall.
I attempted slowing down and it makes textures Worse. Called salmon skin, not entirely sure how to get rid of it though. Same goes with going faster again things get worse.
You can see it has smooth idlers for some reason. Also found on the SR and v400. I would have understood it if they were using bearing stacks for longevity at the cost of print quality, but there is no excuse for using smooth idlers on the teethed side of belts. I would bet you can see an improvement with teethed idlers
This is only a temporary issue. The printer just came out, and it's already sold out. They sell parts for all their other printers on their website. I would imagine parts will be available for this model within a few weeks as they build their stock of components back up.
Cough42 did a review video as well, with much the same conclusions. He did a 2nd video saying he had been allegedly Robo Commented by FLSUN or their agents. Wondering if the same happened to you? Most companies respond to Clough42 reviews with fixes, improvements, or replacement machines, not spam comments.
100% this. Coming from Ender printers (Ender 3 Pro, then Ender 3 S1 Pro) to a Bambu P1P (and not long after an X1C), while yes, the printing speed compared to ANYTHING the Ender's could provide was fantastic, but it was the quality without a lot of tinkering that sold me on them. I'd rather wait several more hours for a great quality usable print than a decent quality print that you might want to try to print again. Now we just need a larger format Bambu printer to come out sometime soon, and I'll be even happier.
It's funny when companies dials up the price on unfinished product. What in earth justifies the $1500 price tag on this? It has some sort of lazer-quality-checker that allows you to print carbage?
Me too, that really is a tinker machine - I have the X1C and I don't tinker. I use the v400 for fitment drafts, rather, ugly, not usable, but will let me know if the print size is correct (it is at least pretty good on that) - but when I actually want a version that works - then I move to the X1C
...don't know what your print issues are but with my V400 (Orca slicer) slowing the top layer to 80 (along with the outer wall), .35 line width, monotonic line, single wall, 4 surface layers, bridging ratios of 1 and 1 and density of 80% have all resulted in beautiful top surfaces...and dry, dry, dry filament!
To some degree no. Just came from a stock ender 3 v2 to a bambu lab A1. Yes the overal quality is so much better. But having to wait 1 hour instead of 4 hours when im designing something and need to prototype is a freaking godsend and the reason why i wanted a faster printer.. But i do believe that at some point being faster doesnt matter as much anymore.
If the acceleration tops out at 4g (40000 mm/s^2) then you hit diminishing returns on print speed at around 300-350 mm/s. Saying it does 1200 mm/s is an EXTREME stretch.
Seems like the volumetirc flow isnt good enough to match the speed and accel, in the blue prints time-lapse it looks like the infill is very under extruded
The IP address is coming from your DHCP server - nothing that FLSUN can do to change that. If your other DHCP printers have been getting the same IP address after a reboot, it's been the luck of the draw. That's why you can (and should) assign an IP address to a MAC address in your router's DHCP settings if the device is a regular citizen of your WIFI network. Price on the S1 is worth it, but is a bit out of my pocketbook range, but ... I see that the Super Racer is on sale for $299, making it a possibility.
@@UncleJessy Yep, I misunderstood your point there and THAT is a problem. I discovered this with the current OrcaSlicer 2.1.0 beta and the just released 2.1.0., so not just their version. I also learned that you have to delete and re-add the printer (which is why I know about the DHCP MAC assignment) because I added a new Sonic Pad that I'd not set the fixed DHCP address for yet 😬.
Even if the IP address is not static, they could still deal with that. They just need to search for the printer within the network instead of expecting it to always show up with the same IP address. For instance, Apple uses Bonjour for this. It finds local printers and other Apple devices regardless of their IP. I believe there's a similar mechanism used on Windows/Linux, I can't remember the name right now. I agree that setting a static IP is simplest solution and that's what I do for my devices. But most people don't know about IP addresses, DHCP, etc. On the other hand, one might argue that this is targeted more at businesses than hobbyists.
You don´t need to spend that much to get the Delta experience, you can buy the V400 and get all the problems for a lot less :-) I gave away my V400 for free when I got the X1C....
@@christiantrab6160 I have the cheaper cousin of the x1, the p1p, and I thought that thing was too expensive, however it's been worth it and spoiled me for trusting another printer from anyone else
Use Orca, load FLsun V400. Change the volume (as the V400 is smaller) copy your gcode from the Flsun slicer and paste into your orca slicer. It will print far better..
BRUH...and what if u put the filament before u set the whole roll into position?? i mean u can put in the filament and then put the coil into the holder
I have two FLSun V400s, they run constantly. Between the speed and Klipper web interface I will never go back to Cartesian printers. Prints PETG and NinjaFlex perfectly. I bet the support printing issues are about PrusaSlicer. I can tell you did not do an overhang test, these printers can print to 75 degree overhang.
absolute beast, its good to see a more industrial printer at an affordable price. lets face it this is no desktop machine, no one wants to work next to one of these at full speed. you need a spare room at the other end of your house or a garage to put this thing in. it has it's place though and ill probably buy one. 🙂
It is loud, for sure! My two are in a dedicated room across the garage from the rest of the house...and I do have a set of ear protection headphones hanging by the entrance into that room!😂 But I still love them!
Will you test T1? I have a T1 and have been using it for three weeks , super fast , I don’t know why so many people criticize its 1000mm/s. Why are machines with a default configuration of 250mm/s allowed to advertise 600mm/s, but machines with a default configuration of 600mm/s are not allowed to advertise 1000mm/s? 600mm/s and 1000mm/s are just movement speed, We need to discern whether the true value of the product meets our own needs, instead of just complaining and touting .
Ta drukarka to same problemy. Nic więcej. Strata pieniędzy, czasu i zdrowia. Nie wiem ile ci zapłacili żeby takie rzeczy wygadywać o tym złomie. Nie chcę jej nawet za 100$.
Looks amazing, but...does _any_ manufacturer's "AI" functionality actually work? At some point, somebody's going to have to sue one of them to stop them advertising the bullshit functionality that can't be relied on and plain doesn't work as advertised.
Yeah, I dunno. It looks fast, but it doesn't look faster than a tweaked up Bambu. Apparently it does, but it doesn't visibly look faster. But either way, it's GARGANTUAN for the build volume.
I enjoy your reviews. As an owner of the FLSUN V400 delta, this machine doesn't feel like an upgrade. Maybe it's faster, but it's noisier and its got a proprietary printhead. I like my easy to switch out volcano nozzle. The enclosure is nice, but it seems like it comes at the cost of a lot of noise. Also sheesh, my wireless connection doesn't fail like that - you'd think they'd have that worked out since they already figured it out once 😀
i have an flsun v400, honestly love the printer. The main consensus ive heard online about flsun is that its an amazing hardware company that tries to make software as well
Im not a 3D printing expert, but I bet the weird texture is ringing and just looks different because it doesnt have linear kinematics like a regular printer. I modded my voron to print at 100k accels, but I limit the external perimeter acceleration to 5k to avoid this issue. It prints blazingly fast and still has steller exterior quality
Nowadays they release machines before the printer is dialed in tested and the buyers have a crappie machine. Why I love makers like Prusa they take there time.
maybe look into tuning for different filaments and make your own print profiles before you compare these prints. Different filaments, even if it's just the color, behave very differently.
If you’re looking for a more technical look at the S1 make sure you watch Nathan Builds Robots video
ua-cam.com/video/EXL7ZqsYrYw/v-deo.htmlsi=2nfYIjefUa0sYckG
If I had to guess, it would seem that you’d need to tune it to slow down for certain parts of the print while retaining the fast print for others - ( take advantage of of the speed while maintaining the fine print control)
Aw I love you 3d printer youtubers having a connection and sharing eachoters channel
"It's not how fast you print, it's how well you print fast." -- John Deere, kinda.
what is the point in printing fast if it turns out garbage..
exactly.
To flex
If you you’re going to fail, fail fast.
@@Inventorsquarekek
If you know how to and with the right printer like my vz bot with a super high flow hotend faster than this printing voron parts that snap together perfectly while printing fast with quality
I don't think the bed is 320 x 320, it's not square. it's just a 320 diameter.
La taille du carré maximal est environ 22,63 cm de côté.
@@jeje3d546That’s just under 9 inches (for Americans)
Its 320 circle diameter he said it wrong.
It looks very promising. The failing supports are easy to solve in the slicer settings, so FLSun should just do that to their presets. Slower acceleration and jerk for support and a bit lower print speed. But the issue where supports, fail to adhere to the bed especially tree supports, is due to the acceleration and jerk settings.
I'm more then positive this was the sound i was hearing in the background in your recent videos
😂🤣🤐
It's incredible how good the Bambu prints look. I got a Flsun SR for myself one year ago and upgraded to a Bambu P1. The print quality, as well as the print profiles, are so much better on the P1. I will never go back
A giant, ultra loud, high speed printer (that can't actually print fast) with a clunky version of a slicer that has been around for years with profiles that don't work and they're charging $200 more? WHAT'S NOT TO LOVE?!
Thank you for posting this! I've been waiting (impatiently haha) since I saw your unboxing! I ordered one at the sale price and I'm hoping it ships soon! I'm glad to know you are getting feedback, back to them. It seems like they hurried to get this out the door ahead of the Prusa HT90 and whatever Bambu comes out with next. A lot of the problems people seem to be having with it are all software - whether it's the slicer or the firmware. I also heard the install of klipper and mainsail on it are old versions too and they haven't unlocked SSH yet either. But with it being so brand new, I can't help but hope that a year from now, this will all be old news? The fact that it's already sold out again I hope is a good sign! Thank you for continuing to use it despite the issues and for sending your feedback to them, I'm sure it's helping!
protonus....LOOL FLSUN?
FLSUN = FLORIDA SUN ? 🤷🏼♂️
I expect that the "texture" you are experiencing is due to the stepper motors microstepping resolution. Unlike standard x-y-z slignbed or xy-yx-z corexy configurations, deltas are a z-z-z configuration. So the kinematics of the arms' parallelogram create axises that behave as arcs. Hense the carbon fiber 45 degree texture. In other words, the step-drivers need tuning. Try printing a cylinder.
Remember with deltas, the advertised height of build volume is only directly in the middle. Build volume isn’t a perfect cylinder. Its a dome at the top
I owned the V400 from FLSUN, and I will try to keep away from any of their products in the future. I’ve had so many issues out of nowhere with the quality. The supports kept failing over and over for no reason. The filament wouldn’t stick to the plate. The leveling procedure was DUMB and didn’t keep the nozzle level even for a couple of small prints (z-offset kept getting off randomly). I’m not even talking about the lack of accuracy, which is a common problem for deltas. Software and support feel like a 'basement factory' amateur. It's a huge headache. No, thank you, I’ll stick to Bambulabs.
Yep, same here, gave away the V400 for free, when I got the X1C.
same here. had nothing but issues with 2 of their printers. very frustrating, I broke my last one by beating it to death.
R.I.Pieces
So, slow the print speed to something more normal and use Orca Slicer and I'm guessing it would be maybe 75% better, just with doing those things. And FLSUN supposedly just released a big firmware update to correct a bunch of issues with this printer, so it would be interesting to see a follow up video on how those changes may (or may not) have improved this machine. The issue with the profiles sounds like FLSUN is playing catch-up and maybe fielded the product too soon. I'm hoping they'll just ditch their slicer and develop solid profiles for Orca for everybody to use. If they could dial-in this thing to X1C-level user experience and print quality, I'd order one ASAP. I just love the delta design. I don't care so much about the speed, especially since it seems to come at the expense of quality. Better to take a little longer and have a nice result than to go really fast and have the result look like garbage...or fail altogether.
Thats the problem I find with Nikko Industries, all the files are out of scale and it's such a pain when you have a build plate full of parts, it's quite hard to determine how much to scale it, and then he won't reply to messages when you ask about it.
I wonder if the weird texture is due to vibration at the higher speed? Maybe they need some kind of damper base/pad if it can't compensate enough for it. Bambu has the feet, just a theory
I don't own a 3d printer (yet,) but own multiple laser engravers. Don't know if this could apply to 3d printers, but is worth mentioning. I was getting strange lines in my engravings across all my machines, so I knew it couldn't be a calibration or mechanical issue. After much toiling and gnashing of teeth, i realized it was the shitty/old wiring in my shop. I ended up having to put my lasers behind battery backups to smooth out the power they were getting and weird lines went away.
still gets it and super slow speeds
You have a great energy uncle Jessy. I never gonna buy this machine, but watching you is very satisfying.
that surface artifact is so dope
Ha ha ha, I wanna see these artifacts in person
hey uncle Jessy, my process for loading filament is to push the filament till it stops, then put the roll on the holder.
the hardware is very good, but the firmware, software wise needs more fine tuning.
the S1 needs a 0.6mm nozzle profile!
Now can you review the t1? The s1 is now $1500 and the t1 is $600 it might get more people to buy it because it is less than half the price and it still goes 1000mm/s
This guy give me Rick Grimes vibes lol 😅
Just looking at it, it doesn't look like it should move that fast. Talk about looks may be deceiving!!! LMAO
Proud picture of member commenting to Support on the video and the crazy guy that takes his magnetos‘s twin. I’m very glad with the innovation of this printer. I will not be buying it however, I’ll stick with my elgoo & Bambu printers for now. Be well be you.
I have the V400 and due to the Delta setup (I think), the supports are knocked over much easier than on a cartesian printer. That's also why you need to use Gyroid infill, otherwise it scrapes..
I got 12 v400s and yea. Supports need to be thicker and the nozzle it comes with is trash and can cause the supports to print poorly
I have a v400 and its fine. Its better than my neptune 4 plus but worse than my bambu p1s. Definitely have to use gyroid infill. Only one that worked for me. The print quality is decent and it has good speed. I wouldn't drop a grand on this tho. Been doing a lot more resin printing these days. For me you can't beat bambu right now.
The Mac OS version only works with the latest Apple hardware. It did not work with an Intel based system running the latest macOS( 14.5 I believe )
always a good day when Uncle Jessy
Looks like it needs some refinemnt before considering purchasing.The noise levels seems to be the biggest negative factor to me. The rest can be resolved with future firmware and slicer tweaks.
3D printer go brrrrrrrrrrr
brrrrr
Are you winning son? No I am failson
Holy moly, that things is massive...
I have a feeling that your support failure may have been from the pressure from the CPAP fan not working well with the tree supports since it creates a hollow tube
On the update problem after the usb install, check that your wifi is still connected. I had that problem and found that the update had disconnected me from the internet, so I click to connect again and it updated with no problem
Does need alot of work however i 1000% do see the day were we are able to print out helmets sub 8 hours. Technology is only getting better, the community is only growing more and weve already come so so far in just the last few years alone
Do you think it could have been the filament causing the weird texture? Like brand?
What slicing software are you using for the FLSUN S1? Also how do you setup the wireless feature?
In my opinion I expect to see the S1 start off pretty rough. It is going to take Flsun or the community a while to really refine the slicer settings for this printer. A similar thing happened with the v400, their original firmware for it had some issues and had big issues on the dimensional accuracy. The latest firmware, which took almost a year fixed all the issues. Again my experience and my opinion
Is the problem here the printer it self or the filament?
It seems that the filament can't handle the speed of the printer, maybe with high speed filament it will print just fine
I don't even mind the imperfection on the Solid Snake bust. I think it gives nice texture in this particular case.
yeah but imagine you're trying to print something else.. and will never be able to get a decent surface finish. I'd rather go 24 hours vs 12 but have all that effort amount to something I can use. your printer shouldnt be stuck on fuzzy skin.
@@electronicsandewastescrapp7384 I agree completely, thats why I wrote "in this particular case"
3 rods will always give "3-dimensional" effects to layer lines - so it will produce an individual texture by concept.
So far for multicolor I go to my P1s and for speed I use my Flsun S1 .
Cyril Guislain has fixed the firmware for the V400, I guess he will also fix it for the S1 and T1.
Great review, I just found the physical size of this printer ridiculous for its print capacity. This has always been the problem with Delta-style printers. Also, I am not sure what is acceptable regarding quality these days, but none of the prints of that machine would be good enough for my shop.
Hey @UncleJessy - great video! I want FLSUN to succeed it’s the only Delta exponent in the market and 3D Printing as a whole benefit from different systems competing - I just watched a couple of other S1 reviews, they are on par with what you felt: the machine is almost there, needs fine tuning in the profiles. About the slicer: this obsession from making their own software is maddening. QIDI also did that, it’s infuriating. Time and energy in the wrong direction. An “almost usable” slicer is a slicer nobody cares.
Thank you for the great content! 🇨🇦
I have this printer, the issue is the flow rate. I limit pla flow rate to 30mms3 and everything resolves. The advertised 110 is based on the rapido styles heater they have and that has the same issue.
14:05 You need to reserve the printer's IP in your routers DHCP server lease reservations page..... Otherwise the DHCP lease will expire and your printer will get handed out a new IP every 24 hours or 1 week or whatever... You should do this from a top-down perspective and not from the bottom of perspective (of reserving the IP on the printer)
I imbedded magnets in my T-Rex plaque to attach to my fridge. If you do that you're going to need a bigger fridge! That's an insane size, where on earth are you going to put that?
The problem with that printer is that the arms are attached to the bottom of the toolhead making it (toolhead) top heavy. When it changes direction the toolhead will want to "nod" in the direction it was previously going. If you attach the arms to the toolheads balancing point it would not do that. It should be somewhere at 70% from the bottom since the extruder motor is up top I'm assuming. If it's bowden it should be a bit lower. Fixing this would improve print quality immensly. You can see evidence of this by printing the top layers with fast speeds and accels. They will not look very good, meanwhile if the toolhead is balanced and everything is stiff you should not be able to see which was the top layer and which was the bottom layer. I saw the Prusa delta printer and it looks much better as the motor is very low down and also the toolhead is not as tall.
I attempted slowing down and it makes textures Worse. Called salmon skin, not entirely sure how to get rid of it though. Same goes with going faster again things get worse.
You can see it has smooth idlers for some reason. Also found on the SR and v400. I would have understood it if they were using bearing stacks for longevity at the cost of print quality, but there is no excuse for using smooth idlers on the teethed side of belts. I would bet you can see an improvement with teethed idlers
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 Good point actually. I think creality did the same on the K1 series of their printers, used smooth idlers on teethed belts.
Speed is fine and all but for me quality of print is more important first over speed but that's just me. It is cool looking though.
Great video, can this printer print carnon fiber?
Why did they make the spool compartment so small? Seems stupid to make it that tight when there appears to be acres of room on the top of the machine.
The no replacement parts is a deal breaker
This is only a temporary issue. The printer just came out, and it's already sold out. They sell parts for all their other printers on their website. I would imagine parts will be available for this model within a few weeks as they build their stock of components back up.
Cough42 did a review video as well, with much the same conclusions. He did a 2nd video saying he had been allegedly Robo Commented by FLSUN or their agents. Wondering if the same happened to you? Most companies respond to Clough42 reviews with fixes, improvements, or replacement machines, not spam comments.
Great review. Thank you!
Szkoda, że drukarka to złom.
can you do more videos on the giga???
the surface finish is inexcusable for such an expensive machine in today's market
100% this. Coming from Ender printers (Ender 3 Pro, then Ender 3 S1 Pro) to a Bambu P1P (and not long after an X1C), while yes, the printing speed compared to ANYTHING the Ender's could provide was fantastic, but it was the quality without a lot of tinkering that sold me on them. I'd rather wait several more hours for a great quality usable print than a decent quality print that you might want to try to print again.
Now we just need a larger format Bambu printer to come out sometime soon, and I'll be even happier.
It's funny when companies dials up the price on unfinished product. What in earth justifies the $1500 price tag on this? It has some sort of lazer-quality-checker that allows you to print carbage?
I have the older v400. I have so many top layer print issues
Me too, that really is a tinker machine - I have the X1C and I don't tinker. I use the v400 for fitment drafts, rather, ugly, not usable, but will let me know if the print size is correct (it is at least pretty good on that) - but when I actually want a version that works - then I move to the X1C
messing with the belt tension is a nightmare unfortunately
...don't know what your print issues are but with my V400 (Orca slicer) slowing the top layer to 80 (along with the outer wall), .35 line width, monotonic line, single wall, 4 surface layers, bridging ratios of 1 and 1 and density of 80% have all resulted in beautiful top surfaces...and dry, dry, dry filament!
I wonder if the quality would be better with the high speed PLA.
I don't really care about speed over quality
To some degree no.
Just came from a stock ender 3 v2 to a bambu lab A1.
Yes the overal quality is so much better. But having to wait 1 hour instead of 4 hours when im designing something and need to prototype is a freaking godsend and the reason why i wanted a faster printer..
But i do believe that at some point being faster doesnt matter as much anymore.
If the acceleration tops out at 4g (40000 mm/s^2) then you hit diminishing returns on print speed at around 300-350 mm/s. Saying it does 1200 mm/s is an EXTREME stretch.
Going to do that Rex head!
Pretty rad right 😂
@@UncleJessy DEF!! How much did it take to make? 2 kilos white, one of black?
@@UncleJessydid you design the wall mount yourself? It doesn't seem it part of the bought model on cults
i like fast printers
And I cannot lie.
Do you still have your S1 in the studio? Will you donate or give away these used machines?
Seems like the volumetirc flow isnt good enough to match the speed and accel, in the blue prints time-lapse it looks like the infill is very under extruded
The IP address is coming from your DHCP server - nothing that FLSUN can do to change that. If your other DHCP printers have been getting the same IP address after a reboot, it's been the luck of the draw. That's why you can (and should) assign an IP address to a MAC address in your router's DHCP settings if the device is a regular citizen of your WIFI network.
Price on the S1 is worth it, but is a bit out of my pocketbook range, but ... I see that the Super Racer is on sale for $299, making it a possibility.
Agreed BUT my main callout was about the slicer not allowing you to change it once set. You have to delete the printer and add it new again.
@@UncleJessy Yep, I misunderstood your point there and THAT is a problem. I discovered this with the current OrcaSlicer 2.1.0 beta and the just released 2.1.0., so not just their version. I also learned that you have to delete and re-add the printer (which is why I know about the DHCP MAC assignment) because I added a new Sonic Pad that I'd not set the fixed DHCP address for yet 😬.
Even if the IP address is not static, they could still deal with that. They just need to search for the printer within the network instead of expecting it to always show up with the same IP address. For instance, Apple uses Bonjour for this. It finds local printers and other Apple devices regardless of their IP. I believe there's a similar mechanism used on Windows/Linux, I can't remember the name right now.
I agree that setting a static IP is simplest solution and that's what I do for my devices. But most people don't know about IP addresses, DHCP, etc. On the other hand, one might argue that this is targeted more at businesses than hobbyists.
@@zmast333 Now THAT is something that the printer manufacturer can fix - install the avahi tools for mDNS discovery.
So its better bambulab or slsun?
love this thing and would love to try a delta printer but no way I'm paying that price, just too much for my budget
You don´t need to spend that much to get the Delta experience, you can buy the V400 and get all the problems for a lot less :-)
I gave away my V400 for free when I got the X1C....
@@christiantrab6160 I have the cheaper cousin of the x1, the p1p, and I thought that thing was too expensive, however it's been worth it and spoiled me for trusting another printer from anyone else
Use Orca, load FLsun V400. Change the volume (as the V400 is smaller) copy your gcode from the Flsun slicer and paste into your orca slicer.
It will print far better..
Does the slicer have seperate speed settings for support and support interface?
BRUH...and what if u put the filament before u set the whole roll into position?? i mean u can put in the filament and then put the coil into the holder
whats the point of those speeds when it looks like trash?
Quick prototypes
Okay that skull has me wondering about a life size Dry Bones from Mario... lol
I have two FLSun V400s, they run constantly. Between the speed and Klipper web interface I will never go back to Cartesian printers. Prints PETG and NinjaFlex perfectly. I bet the support printing issues are about PrusaSlicer. I can tell you did not do an overhang test, these printers can print to 75 degree overhang.
Anyone can share the link for the Flexi T Rex Head by Flexi Factory? the link above in the description does not work
They need to make a printer profile for Orca slicer
absolute beast, its good to see a more industrial printer at an affordable price. lets face it this is no desktop machine, no one wants to work next to one of these at full speed. you need a spare room at the other end of your house or a garage to put this thing in. it has it's place though and ill probably buy one. 🙂
It is loud, for sure! My two are in a dedicated room across the garage from the rest of the house...and I do have a set of ear protection headphones hanging by the entrance into that room!😂 But I still love them!
@@navydiverdlt2316 awesome, that’s what I was thinking, definitely going in the garage. What do you use your 2 for?
Will you test T1? I have a T1 and have been using it for three weeks , super fast , I don’t know why so many people criticize its 1000mm/s. Why are machines with a default configuration of 250mm/s allowed to advertise 600mm/s, but machines with a default configuration of 600mm/s are not allowed to advertise 1000mm/s? 600mm/s and 1000mm/s are just movement speed, We need to discern whether the true value of the product meets our own needs, instead of just complaining and touting .
Ta drukarka to same problemy. Nic więcej.
Strata pieniędzy, czasu i zdrowia.
Nie wiem ile ci zapłacili żeby takie rzeczy wygadywać o tym złomie.
Nie chcę jej nawet za 100$.
Nice to see the quality is improving on FLSUN, had one SR the extruder unit was not the best.
Looks amazing, but...does _any_ manufacturer's "AI" functionality actually work? At some point, somebody's going to have to sue one of them to stop them advertising the bullshit functionality that can't be relied on and plain doesn't work as advertised.
only thing i have seen work is the clog detector
Multiple people in the facebook group have said the AI spaghetti detection worked for them. Perhaps it was the firmware build he was on.
Looks like someone repurpose the Deadpool Bust for that Solid Snake
same sculptor
At least it's cheaper than Prusa's new delta printer.
delta printers give me ptsd flashbacks to the anycubic kossel
Check out the Celeritas
Yeah, I dunno. It looks fast, but it doesn't look faster than a tweaked up Bambu. Apparently it does, but it doesn't visibly look faster.
But either way, it's GARGANTUAN for the build volume.
I enjoy your reviews. As an owner of the FLSUN V400 delta, this machine doesn't feel like an upgrade. Maybe it's faster, but it's noisier and its got a proprietary printhead. I like my easy to switch out volcano nozzle. The enclosure is nice, but it seems like it comes at the cost of a lot of noise. Also sheesh, my wireless connection doesn't fail like that - you'd think they'd have that worked out since they already figured it out once 😀
i have an flsun v400, honestly love the printer. The main consensus ive heard online about flsun is that its an amazing hardware company that tries to make software as well
flsun is trash at everything lol
I don't get the obsession printer manufacturers have with speed these days. Would rather they concentrate on reliability.
Every company wants to be bambu lab level of speed and quality.
I never get a straight answer to this question...
Can i print stuff for my fish tank?
Yes
Im not a 3D printing expert, but I bet the weird texture is ringing and just looks different because it doesnt have linear kinematics like a regular printer. I modded my voron to print at 100k accels, but I limit the external perimeter acceleration to 5k to avoid this issue. It prints blazingly fast and still has steller exterior quality
Another printer released before it is actually ready for end customers. I don't know what's up with that trend from printer manufacturers.
7:13 That carbon fibre look is interesting "feature"
Nowadays they release machines before the printer is dialed in tested and the buyers have a crappie machine. Why I love makers like Prusa they take there time.
maybe look into tuning for different filaments and make your own print profiles before you compare these prints. Different filaments, even if it's just the color, behave very differently.
Best looking printer period.
It sorta prints, but does it fast? Not sure that is what I'll call a win.
It must be so dope to get handed every printer that comes out. It's an expensive hobby when you pay for it.
Yikes! Between the price, weight, and noise, it's a no-go for me regardless of how fast it prints.