One of the best DIY follow along builds I've ever watched! I really appreciate you taking the time to cut back to the final product and pointing out critical details. I'm building this for my wife as a surprise gift!
what a great video! this is exactly what I was looking for, I'm getting ready to build my first console table for my wife. Thanks for taking the time to point out those little details that make a difference in the finished product!
Scott your video helped a lot as I built this over the recent weekend. It made a woodworking hack like me get more praise than deserved from my wife and Facebook friends. I was reluctant on the Classic Grey stain but ultimately did go with it and am thrilled with the results. Thanks!
Scott, you're an excellent teacher! Thank you so much for explaining everything. This is going to be my first ever woodworking project and I learned some things from you that I hadn't caught from Ana's video. I'll be watching for more of your videos. Again, my thanks.
Thanks for the video! This video made a lot more sense than just picture steps. Trying this build but we had to stop because we were confused, first time tackling a build. Would love it if you showed how to make a barn door tv console.
I started building the same table. I really enjoyed watching your process. Its good to know that it is not necessary to use pocket holes for the x braces.
hey scott, loved the build, went to home depot and got the wood, going to be the next HONEY DOO item. love your lil shop, i too one car garage wood shop. Blessings to you sir, steve and junebug in beaumont california
very nice I like to take the 2x4s and rip 3/16 off 2 sides to get rid of the radius so all the wood fits tight together then you won't have to round the edge over.
Yes sir Adam that is definitely a great way to get it done. You have a better skill set than the majority of the audience though so I chose to show the sanding option.. If you have a video of your 3/16th rips Id love to share it on this post! thank you Adam
cheekyoziechick yeah I don't have one either. I put my saws etc on porch and make all my cuts outside and build it in the house on a tarp . I don't build a lot so this works for me.
Yes for experienced wood workers biscuit joints would definitely work for the shelves ! I know biscuits are easy but very few people actually own a biscuit joiner
Ok I'm kinna lost when you said cut the small brace to 11-/14" but your lower shelf is 12" wide, did you trim the board shelf to 11-1/4" as well? Thanks
Wood doesn't always cooperate when it comes to angles. I usually put the first solid piece in and then hold the other piece up and mark the backside for cut marks. I ran into this problem a few times. Knowing my measurement was correct but the wood has inconsistencies.
Greetings Scott, I would like a table like this, but with a few changes. 60 inches long and two feet deep, made using premade farm legs. Does there have to be a middle support? I would use the table as a multi purpose crafting work station. On each end, under the table, I would place an Ikea Alex drawer system for storage. Do you think this can be done?
Hi Evelyn, at 60” you won’t need a center support. however, if you felt like it needed one you can just attach a shelf bracket to the wall at the center. (I hope that makes sense)
hello, first off, good work on the table, but can you tell me if you nailed or wood glue the top piece or both? it seems like you just laid the top piece.
I just built this table and what I did was simply flipped the table upside down and screwed #8 2.5 inch self-tapping wood screws from the bottom. This doesn't show from the top. Love it. I hope this tip helped.
Hi Scott, thank you for the great video. Can you give me a cut list if we wanted to shorten the height to 24 inches and the length to 60 inches? Also, what length would the X's need to be? Thx!
@Scott Brooks - I'm in the process of finishing up one of these tables now. I'm interested especially in the math surrounding the cuts for the X slats on the end of the table. Can you help me understand why we're making two 60 degree cuts when it's a 90 degree angle? I would think it would be two 45 degree cuts at each end. Again, just trying to understand the math at a bit of a higher level for future projects.
OK let me explain it in a way that makes sense in my little brain.. 45* will dissect a square but 60* will dissect a rectangle. A console table is taller than it is wide therefore the end creates a rectangle. A 45* cut would only reach the halfway point because 45* wants to make a square. By using a 60* cut you reach the top of the rectangle. If this doesn't make sense look up an image of a 45-45-90 triangle and then look up a 30-60-90 triangle ..the image should make it clear. hopefully this helps Let me know if not
Scott Brooks - This makes perfect sense. Thanks for clarifying. I just had a flashback to geometry class in high school. All triangles must equal 180* total and if you view the end of the table as two separate triangles, rather than one rectangle, it's very obvious that a 90 / 45 / 45 would make a square and run into the back of the leg about halfway down. The images of the triangles really helped. Thanks again for the guidance and for the video tutorial! Much appreciated. Also, one challenge I ran into was with attaching the frames with the five shorter 2×4s and the two 2×2s. Specifically, the frame itself was getting in the way. I couldn't fit my drill in the space between the two frames with the pocket hole driver attached. I ended up remaking the blocks and drilled the pocket holes at a slight angle from outside to in (rather than square to the end of the piece). I was a little concerned that it might make a weaker joint but it's pretty solid. Just wondering if you ran into this as well.
Brittany Blasko for the table I made, I deviated from the plans a bit. I made mine 8' wide × 36" tall so for some reason, even a 60* angle didn't work for the X slats. I ended up just holding the 2×2s in place and making my pencil marks on the back side by hand and then using a Japanese Razor Saw to make the cuts by hand, because the miter saw wouldn't make the cut at such a steep angle.
Is there another piece between the middle shelf and the decorative X? I was looking at the build after i got everything but the X installed and it looks like there will be a big gap between the X and the middle shelf
hey brian my wife and i are attempting to build this as a tv stand iv never built anything in my life. lol is the cost of this in canadian dollars thanks a million for the video
How much of an overlap is the table top on each side of the frame? I am trying to customize this to be about half the length with only 4 main legs, obviously. Thanks, and great build!
This is all new to me, especially the pocket hole jig. So on the 12 (2x2) I will drill a 1 1x2 pocket hole on each end of the 2x2 and use the 2 1/2 pocket hole screw to attach them? Thanks in advance.
Hi Scott, Do think home depot or lowes will cut and pre-drill everything for me? Then all I would have to do is screw and glue everything together myself. I don't have the tools to cut and drill. Thanks
Great video, about to build this exact table and towards the end you mention 'aging' wood with the sander and that you had other ways to 'age' it, what are some other tips on aging your wood? I think with the rustic stain we're using, it'd look great to look pretty aged. Thanks in advance!
Loved the video. Thank you so much. I am currently making this for my boyfriend who is looking for a console table just like this. However, it wasn't until I went through the video a few times (not in the "Lets cut the wood" section, I realize I needed the 5 x 11.25" 2x4s. Also, when I used my Kreg Jig, I set it to 1.5" as the 2x2s are actually 1.5" wide. My 1.25' pocket hole crews would not go through. I looked at the Kreg manual and it said to use the 2.5" pocket hole screws. The 2.5" pocket hole screws worked. Is there a reason that your 1.25" pocket hole screws worked and mine did not? Thanks you so much for this video. I'll send a pic when I finish with mine. I'm making mine a little taller, so I adjusted some numbers.
Diana, This is a great catch you made here... If you look at the 9 minute mark of this video you will see I was also having trouble with 1.5'' pocket screws so I had to use brad nails and wood glue in combination with the pocket screws. To be honest pocket screws are always hit and miss so I ALWAYS back it up with wood glue. I guess being male I didn't refer to the manual like you did to realize I should have used 2.5'' pocket screws... This is why women live longer! ha! Cant wait to see your finished table and thank you for the taking the time to share your findings and pay me a compliment!
@@fyrcapt22 I would argue your points and bias against pocket holes, When done correctly with correct settings and correct sized screws not much can compete except some Japanese joinery(excluding glue and other factors, just the joinery aspect).... When you use BRAD NAILS to support pocket screws you have really "Screwed up" the joint as Pocket holes will have 100x the holding power of a brad. You must set the depth on the drill bit as well as the depth on the jig to the correct thicknesses and then use the correct size screw. These mistakes were NOT the pocket holes fault.
I am actually in the process of making this. Your plans say to cut the 1x12's to 63 1/2" are but the top is 74 1/2". Are the shelves really elven inches in from the edge of the top? the pictures of your table don't seem to indicate that
an easy trick is to hold the 2x2 up to the frame at the angle you desire and then use a pencil on the inside to mark the line . Then make the cuts. I hope that makes sense
What did you cut your 8' 2x4 to make the legs? Maybe you spoke it, but I don't see it in the description. I'm going to make your table, but I need it to be 45" tall, so I think my only adjustment will be the 2x4 cuts.
I really want to understand the math of cutting the x legs. I understand how it works for the specific measurement of what you're making. But what if I wanted to change the height, or width? That would change the degree.
Hi Amanda, The degree wont change but the length will. The easiest way around it is to make a template. Take a 2x2 and hold it up from end to the other and when you have the perfect angle just scribe a line on the inside where you need to cut..I hope that makes sense
Scott Brooks thank you for the response! That's what I decided to do as well. Instead of trying to figure it out mathematically, I just scribed it from the inside. I guess the area I'm having trouble is just not understanding how to do this with math, just in case I wanted a specific formula to use down the road.
You mentioned using 2 1/2" wood screws to mount the table top. However I do not see the screws. Did you screw them in from underneath to not show, or am I just not seeing them on the surface? Great video. Very helpful
Hey Scott, also, how did you bring the three 2x6's together for the top, glue alone or did you use PH's to attach all three and then screw the top down through the 2x2's or 2x4's? Thanks in advance
Hi Matt, I'm sorry I wasn't more clear in the video. To attach the two by sixes on top I used 2" screws and came from underneath. I screwed the 2 inch screws through the 2 x 4's from underneath so that they don't show on top.. I hope that makes sense
I highly recommend sanding and staining before building. Then once attach the top you can sand a little more just to "flush" up the top then another coat of stain. Have fun!
Emily B thank you so much for noticing too. I was soooo worried I was doing it wrong when I was watching the video! Then I realized he was using 3/4 instead of the 1 1/2 inch setting on the pocket screws. I ended up realizing per Ana's project plans.
What type of wood did you choose & what's the round about price? I'm going to be making this for my sister & her husband & would like to know exactly what to get & the price.
I just used "off the rack" lumber from home depot. The only thing I do is spend a little extra time picking out the best grade and straight pieces. I think the price was around 75-100
PNW Outdoor Life yeah he knows but he's making it in a easy way so people like me with not a ton of skills could build this.. some people don't have a table saw only skill saw and a drill ,
I have a challenge for you. How about doing a front porch rocker? I haven't checked out the rest of your videos but I'm hoping you'll do one similar to the one on this link. popgiftideas.net/show/31942
Best instructional video I’ve watched so far. Explained every important detail perfectly, very good job!
One of the best DIY follow along builds I've ever watched! I really appreciate you taking the time to cut back to the final product and pointing out critical details. I'm building this for my wife as a surprise gift!
Thanks Brian! Good luck
what a great video! this is exactly what I was looking for, I'm getting ready to build my first console table for my wife. Thanks for taking the time to point out those little details that make a difference in the finished product!
You're a natural easy explanation teacher. Thanks man.!
Scott your video helped a lot as I built this over the recent weekend. It made a woodworking hack like me get more praise than deserved from my wife and Facebook friends. I was reluctant on the Classic Grey stain but ultimately did go with it and am thrilled with the results. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video! This was my first project and I can't believe how well it turned out, I really appreciate your work!
Just what I needed with helpful tips is greatly appreciated!
Scott, you're an excellent teacher! Thank you so much for explaining everything. This is going to be my first ever woodworking project and I learned some things from you that I hadn't caught from Ana's video. I'll be watching for more of your videos. Again, my thanks.
Thanks for the video! This video made a lot more sense than just picture steps. Trying this build but we had to stop because we were confused, first time tackling a build. Would love it if you showed how to make a barn door tv console.
I started building the same table. I really enjoyed watching your process. Its good to know that it is not necessary to use pocket holes for the x braces.
soo nice...the stain color matched it perfectly!
Great tip about the rounded corners! I love learning new things! Great video
hey scott, loved the build, went to home depot and got the wood, going to be the next HONEY DOO item.
love your lil shop, i too one car garage wood shop.
Blessings to you sir, steve and junebug in beaumont california
Thank you Big Guy!
Excellent work. Really good instructions and breakdown. I also see you’re a brother fireman. Been on for 17 years myself. Stay safe brother 🔥✊
very nice I like to take the 2x4s and rip 3/16 off 2 sides to get rid of the radius so all the wood fits tight together then you won't have to round the edge over.
Yes sir Adam that is definitely a great way to get it done. You have a better skill set than the majority of the audience though so I chose to show the sanding option.. If you have a video of your 3/16th rips Id love to share it on this post! thank you Adam
But don't the 2x4s have a rounded edge too? You would still be putting a square edge too a rounded edge?
That's a great video very thorough and easy to understand thanks for taking the time to put it together
Love it. I don't have a work shop..but it was nice easy instructions to follow.
cheekyoziechick yeah I don't have one either. I put my saws etc on porch and make all my cuts outside and build it in the house on a tarp . I don't build a lot so this works for me.
nice tutorial. I would have used biscuits for the shelves myself. But, to each their own. Overall I like the table. Nice work
Yes for experienced wood workers biscuit joints would definitely work for the shelves ! I know biscuits are easy but very few people actually own a biscuit joiner
Thank you SOOOO much! Truly helped to clarify so many questions. Look forward to watching more of your videos!
I love your miter saw table! Do you have the plans or a video on how to make it?
Scott Thank you for the video. You answered so many questions. Will be watching. Your very easy to follow and understand.
Nice! Thanks for the Pinterest offer! 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
The table is so nice. Great job!
I made this table, great instruction and advice.
If you ran the edges of the 2x4 through your table saw and create a sharp edge all the pieces would be seemless.
Awesome teaching
I enjoyed the build. I have done the x coffee table and plan to do this table as well.
Here are the best woodworking plans online: LukeWood.xyz
Perfect for a tv stand that I want to make
AWESOME tutorial!
What do you put on the edge of the middle shelf behind the x design? A 2x2? It doesnt look like it's just the raw edge if the 1x12.
How was the top secured on?????? Unless I missed it I do not see how u secured it
Actually I heard u screwed it on. Was that from top to bottom?? Or bottom up?
Top down with large washer on the screw do it didn’t just punch through the foam .. sorry so late on the response
Super nice work
Did you run the 2.5in screws thru the top when attaching or from underneath?
Since this wasn't kiln dried wood, did this end up warping and having gaps?
Ok I'm kinna lost when you said cut the small brace to 11-/14" but your lower shelf is 12" wide, did you trim the board shelf to 11-1/4" as well? Thanks
Im kinna lost that you said brace needs to cut 11-1/4" but your lower shelf board is 12" wide, did you trim the lower shelf to 11-1/4" as well? Thanks
my had building one like this. I use different ways to set. but it really nice one too :)
Can you explain better about how to secure the top of the table to the base. TY
Wood doesn't always cooperate when it comes to angles. I usually put the first solid piece in and then hold the other piece up and mark the backside for cut marks. I ran into this problem a few times. Knowing my measurement was correct but the wood has inconsistencies.
Absolutely! Great point !!
@scottbrooks. Is there anyway you can help me with the shopping list for a table that is 40"high x 6" to 7" long and 14" wide?? Please
muchas gracias!!!! lo explicas muy bien!!! un saludo desde Barcelona Catalonia
your welcome friend!! enjoy!
i really liked how you edited the video :)
Greetings Scott, I would like a table like this, but with a few changes. 60 inches long and two feet deep, made using premade farm legs. Does there have to be a middle support? I would use the table as a multi purpose crafting work station. On each end, under the table, I would place an Ikea Alex drawer system for storage. Do you think this can be done?
Hi Evelyn, at 60” you won’t need a center support. however, if you felt like it needed one you can just attach a shelf bracket to the wall at the center. (I hope that makes sense)
great table!
hello, first off, good work on the table, but can you tell me if you nailed or wood glue the top piece or both? it seems like you just laid the top piece.
I would like to know this as well
thank you so much for this video... was able to make one and looks great!!
When he was installing the 2"x6" for top of the table were did you srcew it down .
I just built this table and what I did was simply flipped the table upside down and screwed #8 2.5 inch self-tapping wood screws from the bottom. This doesn't show from the top. Love it. I hope this tip helped.
Hi Scott, thank you for the great video. Can you give me a cut list if we wanted to shorten the height to 24 inches and the length to 60 inches? Also, what length would the X's need to be? Thx!
@Scott Brooks - I'm in the process of finishing up one of these tables now. I'm interested especially in the math surrounding the cuts for the X slats on the end of the table. Can you help me understand why we're making two 60 degree cuts when it's a 90 degree angle? I would think it would be two 45 degree cuts at each end. Again, just trying to understand the math at a bit of a higher level for future projects.
OK let me explain it in a way that makes sense in my little brain.. 45* will dissect a square but 60* will dissect a rectangle. A console table is taller than it is wide therefore the end creates a rectangle. A 45* cut would only reach the halfway point because 45* wants to make a square. By using a 60* cut you reach the top of the rectangle. If this doesn't make sense look up an image of a 45-45-90 triangle and then look up a 30-60-90 triangle ..the image should make it clear. hopefully this helps Let me know if not
Scott Brooks - This makes perfect sense. Thanks for clarifying. I just had a flashback to geometry class in high school. All triangles must equal 180* total and if you view the end of the table as two separate triangles, rather than one rectangle, it's very obvious that a 90 / 45 / 45 would make a square and run into the back of the leg about halfway down. The images of the triangles really helped.
Thanks again for the guidance and for the video tutorial! Much appreciated.
Also, one challenge I ran into was with attaching the frames with the five shorter 2×4s and the two 2×2s. Specifically, the frame itself was getting in the way. I couldn't fit my drill in the space between the two frames with the pocket hole driver attached. I ended up remaking the blocks and drilled the pocket holes at a slight angle from outside to in (rather than square to the end of the piece). I was a little concerned that it might make a weaker joint but it's pretty solid.
Just wondering if you ran into this as well.
Wow, I was struggling with this idea, too. Thanks for explaining so clearly!
Brittany Blasko for the table I made, I deviated from the plans a bit. I made mine 8' wide × 36" tall so for some reason, even a 60* angle didn't work for the X slats. I ended up just holding the 2×2s in place and making my pencil marks on the back side by hand and then using a Japanese Razor Saw to make the cuts by hand, because the miter saw wouldn't make the cut at such a steep angle.
Nice job- instead of buying 2x2's I make my own out of 2x4's
What will I do if I don’t want it too long ?
good tips on the joints.
Is there another piece between the middle shelf and the decorative X? I was looking at the build after i got everything but the X installed and it looks like there will be a big gap between the X and the middle shelf
Looks like there are additional 2x2 @ 11 1/4"
I saw this too
hey brian my wife and i are attempting to build this as a tv stand iv never built anything in my life. lol is the cost of this in canadian dollars
thanks a million for the video
How much of an overlap is the table top on each side of the frame? I am trying to customize this to be about half the length with only 4 main legs, obviously. Thanks, and great build!
I'm also interested in what color stain you used
Hi Missjen! The stain is called "Classic Gray" its made by "minwax" and you can get it at Home depot or lowes
Great, thank you for your reply!
Ok. How does the 5 , 11 1/4 inch pieces work if the shelf is 12 inches wide? I think I may have missed this part.
What size are the pockets hole screws?
made mine today, very helpful video...
This is all new to me, especially the pocket hole jig. So on the 12 (2x2) I will drill a 1 1x2 pocket hole on each end of the 2x2 and use the 2 1/2 pocket hole screw to attach them? Thanks in advance.
Great video. Question: are you able to post the link of the blue prints if possible? Thank you.
Hi Scott, Do think home depot or lowes will cut and pre-drill everything for me? Then all I would have to do is screw and glue everything together myself. I don't have the tools to cut and drill. Thanks
They will make the cuts for you but I dont think they will pre drill...
Very nice farm style love it👍🏻 what color stain? It's gorgeous- thanks for sharing
Thank you Maria! The stain is called "Classic Gray" its made by "minwax" and you can get it at Home depot or lowes
Great video, about to build this exact table and towards the end you mention 'aging' wood with the sander and that you had other ways to 'age' it, what are some other tips on aging your wood? I think with the rustic stain we're using, it'd look great to look pretty aged. Thanks in advance!
My miter saw only goes in one direction for bevel cuts and only goes to 45 degrees. What should I do to get the 60 degree cuts?
Hi Amy, you can use a protractor to mark the lines then cut them with a jigsaw. Good luck!
Scott Brooks can this support a tv
Noel Travis it sure can.. its very sturdy
How much do you think this costs to build? Including the lumber, screws and stain?
Katie C probably $125 + or -
Loved the video. Thank you so much. I am currently making this for my boyfriend who is looking for a console table just like this. However, it wasn't until I went through the video a few times (not in the "Lets cut the wood" section, I realize I needed the 5 x 11.25" 2x4s. Also, when I used my Kreg Jig, I set it to 1.5" as the 2x2s are actually 1.5" wide. My 1.25' pocket hole crews would not go through. I looked at the Kreg manual and it said to use the 2.5" pocket hole screws. The 2.5" pocket hole screws worked. Is there a reason that your 1.25" pocket hole screws worked and mine did not? Thanks you so much for this video. I'll send a pic when I finish with mine. I'm making mine a little taller, so I adjusted some numbers.
Diana, This is a great catch you made here... If you look at the 9 minute mark of this video you will see I was also having trouble with 1.5'' pocket screws so I had to use brad nails and wood glue in combination with the pocket screws. To be honest pocket screws are always hit and miss so I ALWAYS back it up with wood glue. I guess being male I didn't refer to the manual like you did to realize I should have used 2.5'' pocket screws... This is why women live longer! ha! Cant wait to see your finished table and thank you for the taking the time to share your findings and pay me a compliment!
@@fyrcapt22 I would argue your points and bias against pocket holes, When done correctly with correct settings and correct sized screws not much can compete except some Japanese joinery(excluding glue and other factors, just the joinery aspect).... When you use BRAD NAILS to support pocket screws you have really "Screwed up" the joint as Pocket holes will have 100x the holding power of a brad. You must set the depth on the drill bit as well as the depth on the jig to the correct thicknesses and then use the correct size screw. These mistakes were NOT the pocket holes fault.
Great video. Where did you run the screws in to secure the top on?
I am actually in the process of making this. Your plans say to cut the 1x12's to 63 1/2" are but the top is 74 1/2". Are the shelves really elven inches in from the edge of the top? the pictures of your table don't seem to indicate that
The shelves will have a 2x4 at each end. Will all is said and done the total overhang of the top is around 2.5" on each side.. I hope that makes sense
How to do cut your Xs and how do you measure to make sure they are flush?
an easy trick is to hold the 2x2 up to the frame at the angle you desire and then use a pencil on the inside to mark the line . Then make the cuts. I hope that makes sense
Scott Brooks it makes absolute sense. Thank you!!
What did you cut your 8' 2x4 to make the legs? Maybe you spoke it, but I don't see it in the description. I'm going to make your table, but I need it to be 45" tall, so I think my only adjustment will be the 2x4 cuts.
I cut the 2x4's for the legs at 28.5''. 45'' will be a fairly tall table , you may want to consider adding a shelf
What does the table measure when finished?
What are the actual measurements of the table??
How big is this table. I need to make it five feet how would I be able to do this.
Great job thanks for the tips
That is a very nice piece. I just started my own channel so I subscribed to yours to get inspiration.
Can I make this table more like 7 1/2 ' long without losing to much strength. Thank you
you sure can
Awsome video!!
This was awesome, thank you so much!
what is the overall dimensions of this table?
What are the overall dimensions of the table when finished?
This table was 74 1/2 " wide , with a height of 32'' and the depth was 16''
I really want to understand the math of cutting the x legs. I understand how it works for the specific measurement of what you're making. But what if I wanted to change the height, or width? That would change the degree.
Hi Amanda, The degree wont change but the length will. The easiest way around it is to make a template. Take a 2x2 and hold it up from end to the other and when you have the perfect angle just scribe a line on the inside where you need to cut..I hope that makes sense
Scott Brooks thank you for the response! That's what I decided to do as well. Instead of trying to figure it out mathematically, I just scribed it from the inside. I guess the area I'm having trouble is just not understanding how to do this with math, just in case I wanted a specific formula to use down the road.
You mentioned using 2 1/2" wood screws to mount the table top. However I do not see the screws. Did you screw them in from underneath to not show, or am I just not seeing them on the surface? Great video. Very helpful
I too am curious on how you mounted the top 2x6's
Yes, I screwed the screws through the 3 - 2x4 braces 2 1/2". Sorry I didst clarify that earlier.
Navy Gunner, Thank you for your Service!! Yes, I screwed the screws through the 3 - 2x4 braces 2 1/2". Sorry I didst clarify that earlier
Did you mean the 3 2x6?
Could I replicate this using 1" wood material instead of 2x4s?
I suppose you could but I would be concerned with it’s sturdiness.
Hey Scott, also, how did you bring the three 2x6's together for the top, glue alone or did you use PH's to attach all three and then screw the top down through the 2x2's or 2x4's? Thanks in advance
Hi Matt, I'm sorry I wasn't more clear in the video. To attach the two by sixes on top I used 2" screws and came from underneath. I screwed the 2 inch screws through the 2 x 4's from underneath so that they don't show on top.. I hope that makes sense
Scott Brooks no worries and thanks for the reply, great video! Almost done with mine :)
Did you sand the wood? I'm making this tablet is weekend and would like to know if I should prep and sand and stain before hand.
I highly recommend sanding and staining before building. Then once attach the top you can sand a little more just to "flush" up the top then another coat of stain. Have fun!
How would this work with 1x4’s?
Is there any reason you use 1 1/4" pocket screws versus the 2 1/2"?
Emily B thank you so much for noticing too. I was soooo worried I was doing it wrong when I was watching the video! Then I realized he was using 3/4 instead of the 1 1/2 inch setting on the pocket screws.
I ended up realizing per Ana's project plans.
What stain was used on the table?
Hi Brittany, sorry it took so long to respond.. The stain is called "Classic Gray" its made by "minwax" and you can get it at Home depot or lowes
what kind of wood do you recommend? Thank you!!
Just off the rack lumber at your big box store
What type of wood did you choose & what's the round about price? I'm going to be making this for my sister & her husband & would like to know exactly what to get & the price.
I just used "off the rack" lumber from home depot. The only thing I do is spend a little extra time picking out the best grade and straight pieces. I think the price was around 75-100
what type of wood did you use?
This is just lumber from home depot
what was the overall price to make this?
I think it was a little over $75
Nice
what pocket hole jig is this?
It's a "Kreg" jig. You can find them at lowes or Home Depot .
if you trim the rounded edges off the 2x4 you wouldn't have to round over the 2x2
I made it!
Instead of rounding those 2 x 2 pieces couldn’t you also just trim a eighth off the. 2 x 4’s.
PNW Outdoor Life yeah he knows but he's making it in a easy way so people like me with not a ton of skills could build this.. some people don't have a table saw only skill saw and a drill ,
Link to Original Plans: www.ana-white.com/2012/05/plans/rustic-x-console
Omg thank you so much
I have a challenge for you. How about doing a front porch rocker? I haven't checked out the rest of your videos but I'm hoping you'll do one similar to the one on this link. popgiftideas.net/show/31942
👍🏼😁