I remember a sweet older gentleman 50 years ago had a 5 gallon plastic bucket with a lid buried up to the handle next to the door outside his garage. In the bucket was sand up to the handle and when he changed the oil in his car he would pour it in the sand in the bucket. He used this for all of his garden tools and they were all in beautiful shape and quite old. I've used this method for 30 years. Blessings to you and yours from a great grammie in Michigan ❣️🙏
Boiled Linseed Oil “BLO” has additives that make it polymerize more rapidly. The polymerization causes the oil to form a hardened film. When absorbed into wood, and polymerized (“dried”) it prevents water from soaking into the wood and raising the grain, producing splinters, and causing the wood to crack or “check.” Most tools come home from the store with a coating of lacquer or varnish, two fast drying finishes that do little to protect the wood from the real world of working outdoors but are economical for tool makers, and are attractive. Polymerizing oils, like BLO and Birchwood Casey’s Tru-Oil do a better job of protecting the wood from moisture, but take hours or days to fully “dry,” and tool makers don’t want to have to wait to ship finished products while this drags on. At some point my tools get a serious sanding to remove the lacquer or varnish, and get several coats of BLO. I also use a mixture of WATCO Danish Oil and BLO for a darker finish. EDIT: Hats off to “Buckin’ Billie Ray Smith” of BC Canada for this tip! WARNING!!!! BLO RELEASES SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS OF HEAT AS IT POLYMERIZES. IF YOU USE CLOTH RAGS, OR PAPER TOWELS, THIS HEAT OF POLYMERIZATION CAN BE ENOUGH TO START A FIRE. Dat ole’ nemesis, “oil soaked rags”. Lubricating oils do not polymerize and do not produce heat. The more oxygen that is available, the faster the polymerization reaction progresses, and the heat that is produced will also speed the polymerization in a vicious cycle that can lead to “spontaneous ignition,” probably around 2:00 in the morning while you are sound asleep. Placing the oil soaked rags in a sealed metal can (I use an old metal with a tight fitting metal lid will deprive the oil of oxygen, and slow the reaction to the point that it will not generate enough heat to start a fire. I have an old decorative popcorn tin about the size of a 3-pound coffee can. Any BLO rags go in the tin, the lid goes on and I just leave it for a few weeks. By that time the oil has slowly polymerized without producing excessive heat, and the rags are safe to discard in normal trash. As a final safety precaution,I wear nitrile gloves when applying BLO and other finishes. Many finishes have solvents that can be absorbed though the skin causing long term health issues, plus the oil can be hard to wash off your skin once it starts to polymerize. Thanks for posting this content, Luke!.
@@heidiwheeler9917 Absolutely, soaking them in water will keep things cool enough to prevent a fire, the BLO get diluted and partly emulsified with the water, and by the time the water dries out, they oil will probably not be a problem.
you have to be really careful with boiled linseed oil - the thing that makes it great for tools is that it polymerizes in the presence of oxygen, but that's a chemical process that releases heat. a rag or paper towel that has boiled linseed oil on it can spontaneously combust in the right conditions, so you shouldn't throw your rags in the trash or leave them near anything flammable until the oil is cured and dry. i'd recommend storing rags in a jar between uses, or laying them flat on concrete / hanging them on the clothesline before disposing. or just burn them safely. great video!
We used to keep a big plastic bucket of sand with used motor oil in the shed. After digging and hosing off the spades, hand trowels, etc., we would shove the working end of the tool in and out of the bucket, and give it a wipe with a rag. Don't leave lots on the end (soil contamination )and your tools should never pit and rust. ✌ 😃
After using any tool I always clean and wipe them off. Always clean all dirt and soil from your garden tools it will help from rusting. My father taught me to return a borrowed tool cleaner than you received it. Great video ,take good care of your tools .
(salt and vinegar) or baking soda paste works on rust. See Cast Iron Pan restoration. Scotchbrite. Scrubbing bubbles for sap, WD40 will work on sap on cutting tools, rinse well.
About a week ago, I was looking for my spading fork and realized I'd left it outside all year. I brought it inside, but was too depressed to really give it a good look, thinking I was probably going to have to replace it. At least I now have a potential solution to try first. Thanks Luke! Merry Christmas!
I very much miss my paternal Grandparents. My European Grandma was wise in the ways of gardening & health way ahead of her time. I was recently given a pair of long bladed rusted vintage trimmers, I'm going to try restoring them using your method. Thanks!
If they are rusted solid, I have had success with leaving the tool in a pan of drained motor oil for a few weeks. Eventually, the oil works it’s way in past the rust, and lubricates the tool. You can work the moving parts, to introduce oil to the hinged areas, and sand rust off of outer surfaces.
Thank you for this video! I've acquired my Grandparents' old gardening and shop tools...this will help me preserve them to use in the future! I appreciate the advice!
Luke if you ever do a full restoration or repair and pull it apart by undoing all the nuts and bolts you can soak the metal in some cheap vinegar to remove rust off the metal and service the wood with Linseed Oil.
Boiled linseed oil is the best to put on wooden handles to maintain. It also helps keep wooden handles from splitting or splintering. If you should be fortunate to inherit some of your grandparents garden tools, hang onto, treasure and restore them. They are much better made and have been tweaked with years of use and sharpening into keen tools! I have 3 garden hoes that belonged to my folks. The blade had been worn and sharpened down to awesome little in close weeders and cultivators! : )
FYI, I just found out from a nutrition article that linseed is actually related to flax seed; "The major difference between flaxseed and linseed is simply a matter of purpose. When consumed as a food, it is called flaxseed; when used for other purposes, it is typically referred to as linseed."
First - I am a big fan of your Videos! I also love to restore old tools and do it pretty much the same as you. I sand the wood parts using various grits of sandpaper. I do the same with metal, but with various steel wool types. Then I sharpen my blades using an old sharpening file and Stone that my Grandfather used. But I do use Food Grade Mineral Spirits on the metal, both while cleaning and then a final coat when fished.
That was great, Luke! I can’t believe how easy and how great the results are!! It really is true that you can always buy a new one every year, but why? Just get better quality and keep it in good shape. Thanks
If you use a small torch on the wood and then linseed oil on the warm NOT ON FIRE WOOD, let soak 5 minutes then lightly char again and douse in linseed while still hot again NO EMBERS. You'll get an amazing finish. (a light sand at 220 in between does wonders). lightly heating the blade then rubbing oil on it helps fight rust too
I planted a pineapple last yr when u ran a video about it. It has grown like mad & I’m wondering if I need to transplant it? U said in ur video to plant it in a small container, & I did. Since it has grown so much I’m wondering wether to leave it or transplant????
You should warn your viewers that rags/paper towels soaked in linseed oil and are discarded improperly can spontaneously combust. As the oil dries, it generates heat. I actually use WD-40. A light sanding on wood tool handles a couple of times a year to open up the pores and spray or wipe on the WD-40. Works great.
WD-40 will also neutralize any remaining surface rust after sanding. Spray it on after cleaning, leave for about 10 minutes, wipe off, then oil. WD-40 is a miracle product! So useful for so many things.
I don't know of you can help me Luke. im zone 8a SC. My pak choi is bolting. Ive had 5 days decent frost but its close to 80 this week every day. Is there a a way to prevent bolts? I already sold 80lbs of small pak choy from a extra sown 3x6 raised bed that was all emaculate and im just confused now as how to keep the plants that are now allowed a time to shine from bolting?
THANK you for this information. Dud you say 'BOILED' linseed oil? If I understood you correctly, does one buy it already boiled or does one boil it oneself? If so in what kind of pan and for how long? Is it safe to use the pan to boil linseed oil in for food after washing it? Thanks.
Uploader: You talk way too much without getting to the point quickly enough and you also talk way too fast so it can sometimes be hard to understand what you're even saying.
I remember a sweet older gentleman 50 years ago had a 5 gallon plastic bucket with a lid buried up to the handle next to the door outside his garage. In the bucket was sand up to the handle and when he changed the oil in his car he would pour it in the sand in the bucket. He used this for all of his garden tools and they were all in beautiful shape and quite old. I've used this method for 30 years.
Blessings to you and yours from a great grammie in Michigan ❣️🙏
My grandfather did this and the same result beautifully prestine tools!!
Boiled Linseed Oil “BLO” has additives that make it polymerize more rapidly. The polymerization causes the oil to form a hardened film. When absorbed into wood, and polymerized (“dried”) it prevents water from soaking into the wood and raising the grain, producing splinters, and causing the wood to crack or “check.” Most tools come home from the store with a coating of lacquer or varnish, two fast drying finishes that do little to protect the wood from the real world of working outdoors but are economical for tool makers, and are attractive. Polymerizing oils, like BLO and Birchwood Casey’s Tru-Oil do a better job of protecting the wood from moisture, but take hours or days to fully “dry,” and tool makers don’t want to have to wait to ship finished products while this drags on.
At some point my tools get a serious sanding to remove the lacquer or varnish, and get several coats of BLO. I also use a mixture of WATCO Danish Oil and BLO for a darker finish. EDIT: Hats off to “Buckin’ Billie Ray Smith” of BC Canada for this tip!
WARNING!!!! BLO RELEASES SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS OF HEAT AS IT POLYMERIZES. IF YOU USE CLOTH RAGS, OR PAPER TOWELS, THIS HEAT OF POLYMERIZATION CAN BE ENOUGH TO START A FIRE. Dat ole’ nemesis, “oil soaked rags”. Lubricating oils do not polymerize and do not produce heat. The more oxygen that is available, the faster the polymerization reaction progresses, and the heat that is produced will also speed the polymerization in a vicious cycle that can lead to “spontaneous ignition,” probably around 2:00 in the morning while you are sound asleep.
Placing the oil soaked rags in a sealed metal can (I use an old metal with a tight fitting metal lid will deprive the oil of oxygen, and slow the reaction to the point that it will not generate enough heat to start a fire. I have an old decorative popcorn tin about the size of a 3-pound coffee can. Any BLO rags go in the tin, the lid goes on and I just leave it for a few weeks. By that time the oil has slowly polymerized without producing excessive heat, and the rags are safe to discard in normal trash.
As a final safety precaution,I wear nitrile gloves when applying BLO and other finishes. Many finishes have solvents that can be absorbed though the skin causing long term health issues, plus the oil can be hard to wash off your skin once it starts to polymerize.
Thanks for posting this content, Luke!.
A wealth of information and tips, for this young fellow! Bless!
@@CleverGirlAAH Catching fire is no joke. Really needs to be emphasized.
Wow, I'm so glad you mentioned this! Do you think submerging the rags in a bucket of water would be as effective as a metal can, if we don't have one?
@@heidiwheeler9917 Absolutely, soaking them in water will keep things cool enough to prevent a fire, the BLO get diluted and partly emulsified with the water, and by the time the water dries out, they oil will probably not be a problem.
As a machinist- I recommend scotch bright to remove surface rust. It’s less likely to accidentally remove any etchings but fully remove the rust.
I love that you went to your grandpa. I also love that he had a frugal way to do it.
you have to be really careful with boiled linseed oil - the thing that makes it great for tools is that it polymerizes in the presence of oxygen, but that's a chemical process that releases heat. a rag or paper towel that has boiled linseed oil on it can spontaneously combust in the right conditions, so you shouldn't throw your rags in the trash or leave them near anything flammable until the oil is cured and dry. i'd recommend storing rags in a jar between uses, or laying them flat on concrete / hanging them on the clothesline before disposing. or just burn them safely.
great video!
GREAT comment !
We used to keep a big plastic bucket of sand with used motor oil in the shed. After digging and hosing off the spades, hand trowels, etc., we would shove the working end of the tool in and out of the bucket, and give it a wipe with a rag. Don't leave lots on the end (soil contamination )and your tools should never pit and rust. ✌ 😃
I have heard this from many people. Very interesting!
After using any tool I always clean and wipe them off. Always clean all dirt and soil from your garden tools it will help from rusting. My father taught me to return a borrowed tool cleaner than you received it. Great video ,take good care of your tools .
I have done that with tools from a hire shop and they actually gave me a discount
Awesome. You have such a good vibe like a chocolate lab or something, much love !!
😂
(salt and vinegar) or baking soda paste works on rust. See Cast Iron Pan restoration. Scotchbrite. Scrubbing bubbles for sap, WD40 will work on sap on cutting tools, rinse well.
About a week ago, I was looking for my spading fork and realized I'd left it outside all year. I brought it inside, but was too depressed to really give it a good look, thinking I was probably going to have to replace it. At least I now have a potential solution to try first. Thanks Luke! Merry Christmas!
I very much miss my paternal Grandparents. My European Grandma was wise in the ways of gardening & health way ahead of her time. I was recently given a pair of long bladed rusted vintage trimmers, I'm going to try restoring them using your method. Thanks!
If they are rusted solid, I have had success with leaving the tool in a pan of drained motor oil for a few weeks. Eventually, the oil works it’s way in past the rust, and lubricates the tool. You can work the moving parts, to introduce oil to the hinged areas, and sand rust off of outer surfaces.
Thanks Luke - this is very useful information - i'm not very good at caring for my tools, but this inspires me.
Thank you for this video! I've acquired my Grandparents' old gardening and shop tools...this will help me preserve them to use in the future! I appreciate the advice!
Beautiful old tools are my favorite
Especially old Cast Iron People think are destroyed
AWESOME! Thank you!
Luke if you ever do a full restoration or repair and pull it apart by undoing all the nuts and bolts you can soak the metal in some cheap vinegar to remove rust off the metal and service the wood with Linseed Oil.
Timely is so many ways - thank you for being a very bright spot in this Holiday Season.
Looks easy. I’m gonna do it this way.
This is great, I just got the sharpener and the oil. I'd love to see you do a shovel and bypass pruners!
This was the exact video I needed. Thanks Luke!
Boiled linseed oil is the best to put on wooden handles to maintain. It also helps keep wooden handles from splitting or splintering.
If you should be fortunate to inherit some of your grandparents garden tools, hang onto, treasure and restore them. They are much better made and have been tweaked with years of use and sharpening into keen tools! I have 3 garden hoes that belonged to my folks. The blade had been worn and sharpened down to awesome little in close weeders and cultivators! : )
Hori Hori! My favorite too.
Great history with your grandfather passing his tips to you. Loved the video! Ty vm
Thank you
Awesome, thank you. God bless!
When sanding the metal it helps if you use wet sandpaper
FYI, I just found out from a nutrition article that linseed is actually related to flax seed; "The major difference between flaxseed and linseed is simply a matter of purpose. When consumed as a food, it is called flaxseed; when used for other purposes, it is typically referred to as linseed."
Thank you for doing this video Luke
Awesome ,thank you!!!!!
I got my Trifecta+ yesterday. Thanks! It was amazingly fast shipping and I can't wait to give it a try.
Excellent
Nice job Luke. Your old tool now looks great. My son uses linseed oil when he finishes a furniture he’s built.
Yes steel wool works too.
5% white wine veinegar I heard is good.
Not tried it yet but have a few overly rusted metal instruments needing serious cleaning.
Thanks
First - I am a big fan of your Videos! I also love to restore old tools and do it pretty much the same as you. I sand the wood parts using various grits of sandpaper. I do the same with metal, but with various steel wool types. Then I sharpen my blades using an old sharpening file and Stone that my Grandfather used. But I do use Food Grade Mineral Spirits on the metal, both while cleaning and then a final coat when fished.
They sell sponge sanding blocks. Although more expensive, it's a lot easier to handle, especially for curves.
Excellent. Thank you so much!!
I just bought it from your store. I'm so excited
That was great, Luke! I can’t believe how easy and how great the results are!! It really is true that you can always buy a new one every year, but why? Just get better quality and keep it in good shape. Thanks
Thank you so much for sharing this! Super easy!
Thank you. Very nice advice.
u posted this on my b-day😊😊
If you use a small torch on the wood and then linseed oil on the warm NOT ON FIRE WOOD, let soak 5 minutes then lightly char again and douse in linseed while still hot again NO EMBERS. You'll get an amazing finish. (a light sand at 220 in between does wonders). lightly heating the blade then rubbing oil on it helps fight rust too
Bet your grandpa is happy you shared his knowledge
I’ll be watching this video more than once. Thank you for your informative and easy to understand videos. Enjoy 😉 the upcoming holidays.
Yesss I love it!
This is awesome! Thanks so much for making this video.
Great video! You just saved me some tools!
Just put myself on the back-in-stock notification list for the hori hori!
Luke see Grandpa's know a lot don't they ??? Some day you will be able to teach one of your grandson's this !!!
Good tips!
Great info! Thx!
Good job
Ketchup works on rust also
I use vinegar or apple cider to remove rust, you can use also coca-cola
Good job and good tips especially for someone is new. Be blessed! 💕
Super helpful video! And so well presented!
hay quá ạ
My seeds have arrived on Oahu and I am ready to plant! 🏝🌊🌋
You forgot the link to the sharpener in the description. :)
Linked it :)
You're the best!!
Nice! 🧡👊🏻🇨🇦
I planted a pineapple last yr when u ran a video about it. It has grown like mad & I’m wondering if I need to transplant it? U said in ur video to plant it in a small container, & I did. Since it has grown so much I’m wondering wether to leave it or transplant????
I've read the BLO should only be stored in metal containers. The one in your link is plastic. Maybe a different one would be better?
You should warn your viewers that rags/paper towels soaked in linseed oil and are discarded improperly can spontaneously combust. As the oil dries, it generates heat.
I actually use WD-40. A light sanding on wood tool handles a couple of times a year to open up the pores and spray or wipe on the WD-40. Works great.
WD-40 will also neutralize any remaining surface rust after sanding. Spray it on after cleaning, leave for about 10 minutes, wipe off, then oil. WD-40 is a miracle product! So useful for so many things.
I don't know of you can help me Luke. im zone 8a SC. My pak choi is bolting. Ive had 5 days decent frost but its close to 80 this week every day. Is there a a way to prevent bolts? I already sold 80lbs of small pak choy from a extra sown 3x6 raised bed that was all emaculate and im just confused now as how to keep the plants that are now allowed a time to shine from bolting?
Could you please provide information on the knife sharpener.
Thank you
Would love the link for the sharpener - please .
Linked! Check the description.
@@MIgardener , THANKS !
He sounds super Canadian in this video lol
Some of us did not see the links. I'd like to buy the shapener from Work Sharp, but I didn't see the link.
It is in the description :)
Don't forget linseed oil is combustible. so be VERY CAREFUL! with possible spills!
So, what we have here is a very sharp blade and an oily handle. What could possibly go wrong with that??
👍great
THANK you for this information. Dud you say 'BOILED' linseed oil? If I understood you correctly, does one buy it already boiled or does one boil it oneself? If so in what kind of pan and for how long? Is it safe to use the pan to boil linseed oil in for food after washing it?
Thanks.
Google boiled linseed oil
yes it comes boiled already.
@@MIgardener Thanks!
@@lolrofllmboha Thanks!
Linseed Oil used to be boiled but it is now done chemically
Link for sharpener please 😀
amzn.to/3rxNMmQ
💚🌞
♥️🧡🧡💛🧡🧡♥️
Where did you buy that tool that you restore?
amzn.to/3rxNMmQ
No the sharping tool. The blade tool.
@@MIgardener @It looks like a Barebones hour-hori, is that right? I have one and love it.
Looking for the sharpener link, can't open the description box! There's no "See More" to click.
It's there now. Sorry!
What oil? I can’t make out which one you’re saying doesn’t go rancid
I believe he's saying boiled linseed oil.
Link for the sharpening tool please.
Link in the description
Thank you!
The problem with buying tools that are 'made to last a lifetime' is that by the time you can afford them we're talking about somebody else's lifetime.
My pitchfork needs me to watch this. 👍🏻
LOL I laughed when I read this.
My grandpa would drop things into Coke to remove rust!
Links?
amzn.to/3rxNMmQ
why are the tops of the posts behind him white?
I’m not sure where in Michigan you reside but I live just outside of Detroit and I think you’re really cute 🥰 lmk if you want to go on a date!
He's married and has a kid.
Great video. Does that sharpener do knives as well? or is it just for tools?
It sure does!
Cheap tools can be dangerous. Dull knives are the one that cut you
Vinegar is a FAR easier and better solution for surface rust. Soak in vinegar for 24 hours and all surface rust will be gone
Maybe “how to maintain a tool” would have been a better fit.
1ST 2MINS OF BABBLING
Uploader: You talk way too much without getting to the point quickly enough and you also talk way too fast so it can sometimes be hard to understand what you're even saying.
Please let your mustache grow out again.
U talk too much!
Good job