Thanks for sharing your experience. My 2005 L/cruiser had 124000kms and exactly the same issue as yours. I’m a mechanic and chose the the complete unit replacement. No warning,rock hard pedal,”brake and ABS lights came on( too late and high pitched sound)which I feel is all super dangerous and should be a RECALL. I tow a 23ft. C/van at times. Luckily mine happened when idling along in traffic. I pulled my little unit motor apart and commutator was worn down to the insulation with no brake fluid contamination evident. Very disappointed in my once loved super well maintained 4.7 petrol 100series. Following from Hawkesbury Sydney NSW Australia.
I totally agree this should have been a recall, its not a matter of if it will fail, just when, i also tow a large caravan and was glad it didn't happen when towing with my family onboard
Quite a job to get unit out of vehicle. I took photos when doing it as the color of the wiring set up to the electric motor can be confusing. It's possible to remove the 4 bolts inside the footwell without taking the dash apart but access is difficult. Need rattle gun with extension and wobble to get to the 4 nuts to remove them. Once the unit is out, can get to the electric motor. One of the bolts on the frame holding the electric motor needs angled allen key to get to. Rapid power was very quick and efficient in rebuilding the electric motor and returning it to me in northern NSW. Also got new 0.5 mm gasket paper as original was worn out. Initially the ABS warning light stayed on but after a few pumping sessions and restarts it eventually went out. Tested brakes and ABS whilst driving in a paddock and all good.
Your experience of abs coming on dash loss of brakes was word for word what happened to me ,I to took vehicle to Toyota waited 2 days for an answer and they gave me a quote of $3500.with out labour and pay up front and wait 2-3 months for parts to arrive ..no spares held in Australia,, they say their quality vehicles but at what cost ..I have had the toyota 14 years low klms ....i feel ripped off ....So will take your example and do as you have done ..THANK YOU ...NEIL
Had the same problem with my 2004 - Landcruiser, found a new ABS Brake Booster Pump Motor on eBay for $150 delivered. Out of China of course but the sooner these dealerships realise that 1000 plus % margins are unacceptable and start to become realistic they will continue to lose out. All in all it's not a big and complicated job to do and it's been operating flawlessly for almost a year now and hasn't missed a beat.
Well done. I wasn’t going to run the risk of one of the other components in this unit to fail eg:- accumulator,pump, master cylinder or ABS module so being a motor mechanic and have done bits and pieces in the past to have it come back and bite me on backside. Yes it hurt the back pocket at the time but am over it the satisfaction of a good outcome lingers. Thanks for your interest.
I took your advice and followed up MARK at RAPID POWER in Brisbane ,He reconditioned the brake accumulator for me at a cost of $180.00 with gst and freight both ways the total was around $250.00 ...a far cry from Toyota dealer wanting $3850. not counting labour . They said approximately $5,000.00 all up WHAT A RIP OFF THESE DEALERS ARE ..I HAVE ALWAYS LOVED TOYOTA .BUT NOW I FEEL I WILL LOOK ELSE WHERE NEXT VEHICLE ....THANK YOU AGAIN ....NEIL LEONARD
I'm totally with you, toyota have definately lost my support, in my opinion this is a design flaw and vehicle should have been recalled and the accumulator motor replaced with a brushless motor to reduce chance of brake fail. I'm just thankful i didn't have brake fail while towing my van with my whole family in the car
Thanks for awesome video, i have the same problem as you described, just like everyone else Toyota want a fortune to fix it, I will pull mine apart tomorrow and I've found a guy in Cairns whom will rebuild the motor. This will save me a lot of money and due to Covid-19 and loosing my job it will help a great deal, so thanks again.
Hi there, the job was an easy fix after watching that video, ended up costing me under $400 including the rebuilt rewired motor and replacing all of the old brake fluid. Thanks again for the video!
@@stevieteeesadvfnq7381 hey man what were the steps you took? Like detach wires, then bleed master cylinder? Wish I had a manual for my hzj105r. Was it difficult and did you use the manual?
@@xmc3060 Hi mate, no i didn't use a manual, there was a guy in the states whom has a video on how to take it out, fix it and replace it, also bleed the system, basically i disconnected the wires, took photos on my phone, disconnected the brake lines from the master cylinder, took off the 4 bolts on the fire wall and it slipped right out. took the electric motor off the brake master cylinder, had it repaired, reinstalled the motor, replaced the unit in reverse i took it off, now bleeding it i needed a mate to pump the pedal and turn the key on and off to activate the pump to build the pressure up, better to UA-cam bleeding the sequence, but start at the master cylinder and then go to the furthermost brake bleed nipple and work to the shortest line. If i can find the video i will post a link. Cheers Steve
For anyone in australia wanting their accumulator motor rebuilt, rapid rewind as mentioned in the video no longer offers this service, here is a new contact - S & K Dramicanin Repairs and Parts - (Sal) ph 0412462149. based in queensland
Oh wow was just in contact with rapid couple months ago and was gonna hit them up now. Thanks heaps for the update! Can you pin your comment to the top for others? Cheers! Edit: just as a follow-up bhss.com.au (in Capalaba) quotes $1750 to refurb the whole assembly (motor, master cylinder, accumulator) and said they don't really do just motor... Then said motor would be swap out and would cost $800 but comes with zero warranty, which sounded a bit wtf.. so I'll give the one you suggested a call.
Just called and the guy said he's no longer Automotive Armatures Australia but S & K Dramicanin Repairs and Parts. Was friendly and said turnaround less than a day if they're not busy. Will probably drive it up myself. Is in Sunnybank.
Great information thanx heaps, but how do you get rid of the air gap in the cell at the bottom of the reservoir? mine has had this for a while, I have tried different methods but can't get it to fill and I saw yours is the same...
HI there in all this time i never noticed that, i still have this vehicle and i have never done anything to get rid of that air gap, brakes work perfect, i will check the car today to see if it eventually fixed itself as i have not touched the brakes (apart from pads) in the past 3 years
This is by far the best video that has probably helped me and many others save THOUSANDS of dollars being that this is the most common and annoying issue to try and have get fixed better off getting a it rebuilt as video says! Fuck the stealerships and some shit head mechanic shops. I almost damn near gave my truck away just because this issue was such a head ache to figure out
I’m literally as we speak am having SUCH A HEADACHE with this problem. I even looked to give my truck away. 99 land cruiser with 193000 miles. I went to a salvage yard to get the whole piece from another land cruiser. Let’s hope it works out.
Hi mate I've got the exact same problem mines a 2004 100 series and I rang that rapid rewind in Qld and it's permanently closed. Have you got any other contacts. No way I'm giving them $3k🤬
Hi Neil thx for providing this video,.i have read a couple of conflicting comments,.can you please confirm this common "motor" issue that's sits below & the "accumulator" are they the same thing being talked about or 2 completely different things? Cheers Paul
Mine is also leaking Brake Fluid from somewhere behind or under the unit and now has the same symptoms as the video. That is No brakes and very hard pedal. Is it possible that fluid can leak here? Will replacing this accumulator motor fix this?
the accumulator motor doesn't hold fluid, it simply provides booster pressure, if you resolve the fluid leak, bleed your lines and still have no brake pressure then you may have the issues as shown in my video
Hi - have 2002 petrol 100 series landcruiser. ABS & brake light plus alarm came on out of the blue just before doing a roadworthy. Roadworthy passed. No issues with brakes at all. ABS fault has been cleared 3 times, but alarm/ dash abs & brake light returns. Toyota advised need new brake booster assembly $3600.00 yet brakes continue to work fine. Any ideas please. Thanx
does sound like your accumulator motor is on its way out, when the motor is worn out it can work intermittently causing the fault light/buzzer then eventually the motor totally stops working. toyota do not sell the motor on its own they will only sell you the whole assembly. when you start the car of a morning you should hear the motor running on your brakes for about 10-15 seconds, and sometimes when you stop at traffic lights it will run, in the morning when you first start car try and have bonnet open and listen to the motor when they are getting worn out they should be really noisy
What if you had it rebuilt and not even a year later it’s doing the same thing again? Never got the lights on the dash just the pedal buzz and a squawk behind the dash when braking after the buzz.
do you still have brakes, or is it just the buzzer, you can hear if the pump motor is working when you first start the car, you will hear it run for 10 seconds or so, if its not running then the motor could again be faulty, or you may have a wiring issue
@@innovationelectronicsaustr4310 still have brakes at this stage, taken the car off the road in fear the pump is going to fail. The pump runs when the car is started, usually does 4-5 15 second buzzes on startup. But the problem is it also runs almost every time the brakes are applied and usually squawks behind the dash quite loudly after it’s buzzed upon applying the brakes
@@katelynwoods8370 if you have checked your brake fluid level and there is no issue (possible leak) then your next step would be to either go to a mechanic or auto electrician and get them to run a fault scan using a OBDii tool to see if accumulator fail has re-appeared or if there is some other fault, if you are not keen to drive it with the possible brake fail, you can buy an OBD2 scanner on ebay for as low as $30
@@innovationelectronicsaustr4310 thank you! My car doesn’t take obd2 it takes mobd but I had it scanned last week with no code, and not losing any fluid. It’s booked in next week to get looked at again, hoping to figure it out without spending 4K on the new unit!
@@innovationelectronicsaustr4310 thank you for your suggestion ,,, I actually went back to the stock cams to solve the problem i caused lost power top end but now i can drive it with brakes
thanks for all these information, I wanna ask you what are you doing exactly ? the motor? or what? can u put in steps .. I need to understand by translate the text I need your help and I'm from Saudi Arabia I didn't find solution until today
Nice video, my car is leaking brake fluid I think it might be coming from the reservoir, do you think I would need to rebuild the whole assembly or just replace the reservoir seals? Cheers
$3,500 AU for the assembly is robbery. That's $2,319 USD plus labor. When my motor went out in my 03 4Runner, I went to the junkyard and pulled motor/accumulator from a Lexus GS300 and fixed mine for $60.
Hi Mate, Anyone in Melbourne, who can help me with this? I have a 2003 Prado 120 Grande and having the same issue. So far using a hammer to tap the motor and keep the car going, I need someone who can help me disassemble the Accumulator. Thanks
you have to remove your brake booster assembly either yourself or by a mechanic and send your accumulator motor to a motor rewind business, rapid rewind in queensland did mine, was a week or so turnaround getting the motor repaired, the fact you hit it with a hammer and works means your brushes in the motor are worn out
I phoned the new number and spoke to Mark (rapid rewire) great help ,there main office number is being repaired ,they have changed their address .thank you so much for your help ..neil
Ive just out of the blue lost my brakes in my 2000 model Cruiser, ABS light on, and alarm sounding. Tried reading the codes, and it flashes 2 times, then 5 times. My mechanic said about $3000 to fix......... Im wondering if its easier to pull it out like you did and get the motor fixed, but im not sure if it was the motor.
@@innovationelectronicsaustr4310 how do you reset the abs lights and warning buzzer in the dash I changed a wheel speed sensor, old one was bent at the tip i suspect from when my hub was rebuilt. put a new wheel speed sensor in but need to clear the codes.
Hi sir, I have leaking break fluid on my landcruiser. toyota wants to buy the whole unit, and after replaced, they want to program the abs total to 6 thousand dollars.
Thanks for the heads up I pulled the motor out ,, shaged ordered a new one
Thanks for sharing your experience. My 2005 L/cruiser had 124000kms and exactly the same issue as yours. I’m a mechanic and chose the the complete unit replacement. No warning,rock hard pedal,”brake and ABS lights came on( too late and high pitched sound)which I feel is all super dangerous and should be a RECALL. I tow a 23ft. C/van at times. Luckily mine happened when idling along in traffic. I pulled my little unit motor apart and commutator was worn down to the insulation with no brake fluid contamination evident. Very disappointed in my once loved super well maintained 4.7 petrol 100series. Following from Hawkesbury Sydney NSW Australia.
I totally agree this should have been a recall, its not a matter of if it will fail, just when, i also tow a large caravan and was glad it didn't happen when towing with my family onboard
Quite a job to get unit out of vehicle. I took photos when doing it as the color of the wiring set up to the electric motor can be confusing. It's possible to remove the 4 bolts inside the footwell without taking the dash apart but access is difficult. Need rattle gun with extension and wobble to get to the 4 nuts to remove them. Once the unit is out, can get to the electric motor. One of the bolts on the frame holding the electric motor needs angled allen key to get to. Rapid power was very quick and efficient in rebuilding the electric motor and returning it to me in northern NSW. Also got new 0.5 mm gasket paper as original was worn out. Initially the ABS warning light stayed on but after a few pumping sessions and restarts it eventually went out. Tested brakes and ABS whilst driving in a paddock and all good.
Your experience of abs coming on dash loss of brakes was word for word what happened to me ,I to took vehicle to Toyota waited 2 days for an answer and they gave me a quote of $3500.with out labour and pay up front and wait 2-3 months for parts to arrive ..no spares held in Australia,, they say their quality vehicles but at what cost ..I have had the toyota 14 years low klms ....i feel ripped off ....So will take your example and do as you have done ..THANK YOU ...NEIL
Had the same problem with my 2004 - Landcruiser, found a new ABS Brake Booster Pump Motor on eBay for $150 delivered. Out of China of course but the sooner these dealerships realise that 1000 plus % margins are unacceptable and start to become realistic they will continue to lose out. All in all it's not a big and complicated job to do and it's been operating flawlessly for almost a year now and hasn't missed a beat.
Hey legend could you send me the link
Well done. I wasn’t going to run the risk of one of the other components in this unit to fail eg:- accumulator,pump, master cylinder or ABS module so being a motor mechanic and have done bits and pieces in the past to have it come back and bite me on backside. Yes it hurt the back pocket at the time but am over it the satisfaction of a good outcome lingers. Thanks for your interest.
I took your advice and followed up MARK at RAPID POWER in Brisbane ,He reconditioned the brake accumulator for me at a cost of $180.00 with gst and freight both ways the total was around $250.00 ...a far cry from Toyota dealer wanting $3850. not counting labour .
They said approximately $5,000.00 all up WHAT A RIP OFF THESE DEALERS ARE ..I HAVE ALWAYS LOVED TOYOTA .BUT NOW I FEEL I WILL LOOK ELSE WHERE NEXT VEHICLE ....THANK YOU AGAIN ....NEIL LEONARD
I'm totally with you, toyota have definately lost my support, in my opinion this is a design flaw and vehicle should have been recalled and the accumulator motor replaced with a brushless motor to reduce chance of brake fail. I'm just thankful i didn't have brake fail while towing my van with my whole family in the car
Thanks for awesome video, i have the same problem as you described, just like everyone else Toyota want a fortune to fix it, I will pull mine apart tomorrow and I've found a guy in Cairns whom will rebuild the motor.
This will save me a lot of money and due to Covid-19 and loosing my job it will help a great deal, so thanks again.
Hi there, the job was an easy fix after watching that video, ended up costing me under $400 including the rebuilt rewired motor and replacing all of the old brake fluid. Thanks again for the video!
@@stevieteeesadvfnq7381 hey man what were the steps you took? Like detach wires, then bleed master cylinder?
Wish I had a manual for my hzj105r. Was it difficult and did you use the manual?
@@xmc3060 Hi mate, no i didn't use a manual, there was a guy in the states whom has a video on how to take it out, fix it and replace it, also bleed the system, basically i disconnected the wires, took photos on my phone, disconnected the brake lines from the master cylinder, took off the 4 bolts on the fire wall and it slipped right out. took the electric motor off the brake master cylinder, had it repaired, reinstalled the motor, replaced the unit in reverse i took it off, now bleeding it i needed a mate to pump the pedal and turn the key on and off to activate the pump to build the pressure up, better to UA-cam bleeding the sequence, but start at the master cylinder and then go to the furthermost brake bleed nipple and work to the shortest line. If i can find the video i will post a link. Cheers Steve
@@xmc3060 Search this on UA-cam. Hbb new motor install 4runner gx470 lx470 abs unit screeching screaming noise
and this bleeding method search for- Bleeding hydroboost HBB ABS unit manually no scanner 4runner landcruiser Montero
These things go out every 150k-200k miles (200-300k kms). Rebuilt units go about 350-500 USD on ebay.
You're absolute LEGEND 👍🏻 you have saved me the pain and financial punishment!!!
I owe you a case of beer 🍻
im glad it helped :)
Hi.. Nice video.. On my LX470 Landcruiser the accumulator has a loud cranking sound that comes and goes. Does this mean the motor has failed?
For anyone in australia wanting their accumulator motor rebuilt, rapid rewind as mentioned in the video no longer offers this service, here is a new contact - S & K Dramicanin Repairs and Parts - (Sal) ph 0412462149. based in queensland
Oh wow was just in contact with rapid couple months ago and was gonna hit them up now. Thanks heaps for the update! Can you pin your comment to the top for others? Cheers!
Edit: just as a follow-up bhss.com.au (in Capalaba) quotes $1750 to refurb the whole assembly (motor, master cylinder, accumulator) and said they don't really do just motor... Then said motor would be swap out and would cost $800 but comes with zero warranty, which sounded a bit wtf.. so I'll give the one you suggested a call.
Just called and the guy said he's no longer Automotive Armatures Australia but S & K Dramicanin Repairs and Parts.
Was friendly and said turnaround less than a day if they're not busy. Will probably drive it up myself. Is in Sunnybank.
@@xmc3060 thanks for the update have edited my post and item description
@@xmc3060 Hey, how get it go with S & K Dramicanin Repairs and Parts. Did you end up going? If so can you recall how much it was. Thanks
I'm in the US. Has any posted a US motor rebuilder?
Great information thanx heaps, but how do you get rid of the air gap in the cell at the bottom of the reservoir? mine has had this for a while, I have tried different methods but can't get it to fill and I saw yours is the same...
HI there in all this time i never noticed that, i still have this vehicle and i have never done anything to get rid of that air gap, brakes work perfect, i will check the car today to see if it eventually fixed itself as i have not touched the brakes (apart from pads) in the past 3 years
i looked at mine today and still has that air gap years later
This is by far the best video that has probably helped me and many others save THOUSANDS of dollars being that this is the most common and annoying issue to try and have get fixed better off getting a it rebuilt as video says! Fuck the stealerships and some shit head mechanic shops. I almost damn near gave my truck away just because this issue was such a head ache to figure out
I’m literally as we speak am having SUCH A HEADACHE with this problem. I even looked to give my truck away. 99 land cruiser with 193000 miles. I went to a salvage yard to get the whole piece from another land cruiser. Let’s hope it works out.
Hi mate I've got the exact same problem mines a 2004 100 series and I rang that rapid rewind in Qld and it's permanently closed. Have you got any other contacts. No way I'm giving them $3k🤬
Hi Neil thx for providing this video,.i have read a couple of conflicting comments,.can you please confirm this common "motor" issue that's sits below
& the "accumulator" are they the same thing being talked about or 2 completely different things?
Cheers
Paul
hey bud mine done the same but scan said abs pump fail might check motor first thx for info very helpful
Great work, thx for the info mate
The rapid rewind phone numbers are now obsolete and phone numbers were in correct .BUT thank you for your film utube ..neil
thanks for letting me know i have updated their phone number on my video post, glad you got your car sorted
@@innovationelectronicsaustr4310 hi do you have Rapid rewind new number please?
can u tell me
what 100series land cruiser year
got ABS?
& v6 v8?
Mine is also leaking Brake Fluid from somewhere behind or under the unit and now has the same symptoms as the video. That is No brakes and very hard pedal. Is it possible that fluid can leak here? Will replacing this accumulator motor fix this?
the accumulator motor doesn't hold fluid, it simply provides booster pressure, if you resolve the fluid leak, bleed your lines and still have no brake pressure then you may have the issues as shown in my video
Hi - have 2002 petrol 100 series landcruiser. ABS & brake light plus alarm came on out of the blue just before doing a roadworthy. Roadworthy passed. No issues with brakes at all. ABS fault has been cleared 3 times, but alarm/ dash abs & brake light returns. Toyota advised need new brake booster assembly $3600.00 yet brakes continue to work fine. Any ideas please. Thanx
does sound like your accumulator motor is on its way out, when the motor is worn out it can work intermittently causing the fault light/buzzer then eventually the motor totally stops working. toyota do not sell the motor on its own they will only sell you the whole assembly. when you start the car of a morning you should hear the motor running on your brakes for about 10-15 seconds, and sometimes when you stop at traffic lights it will run, in the morning when you first start car try and have bonnet open and listen to the motor when they are getting worn out they should be really noisy
also as said in the video if it is the motor then is only about $170 to recondition the motor plus labour
What if you had it rebuilt and not even a year later it’s doing the same thing again? Never got the lights on the dash just the pedal buzz and a squawk behind the dash when braking after the buzz.
do you still have brakes, or is it just the buzzer, you can hear if the pump motor is working when you first start the car, you will hear it run for 10 seconds or so, if its not running then the motor could again be faulty, or you may have a wiring issue
@@innovationelectronicsaustr4310 still have brakes at this stage, taken the car off the road in fear the pump is going to fail. The pump runs when the car is started, usually does 4-5 15 second buzzes on startup. But the problem is it also runs almost every time the brakes are applied and usually squawks behind the dash quite loudly after it’s buzzed upon applying the brakes
@@katelynwoods8370 if you have checked your brake fluid level and there is no issue (possible leak) then your next step would be to either go to a mechanic or auto electrician and get them to run a fault scan using a OBDii tool to see if accumulator fail has re-appeared or if there is some other fault, if you are not keen to drive it with the possible brake fail, you can buy an OBD2 scanner on ebay for as low as $30
@@innovationelectronicsaustr4310 thank you! My car doesn’t take obd2 it takes mobd but I had it scanned last week with no code, and not losing any fluid. It’s booked in next week to get looked at again, hoping to figure it out without spending 4K on the new unit!
@@katelynwoods8370 how'd you go with this? either pump failed again or some other components, such as electrical? Cheers
i want to switch between the booster to this accumlator style on my LC ,, where do all those connector wires go ?
you will have to obtain a toyota manual and check the wiring diagram, you can download a manual at automanuals.com.au for $5 aud
@@innovationelectronicsaustr4310 thank you for your suggestion ,,, I actually went back to the stock cams to solve the problem i caused lost power top end but now i can drive it with brakes
Which manual? Can't see a LC one on this site.
Did you get any other codes such as C1251, C1252 or C1223?
how long did it take for the motor to be fixed
about 2 weeks from day of shipment back to my door
thanks for all these information, I wanna ask you what are you doing exactly ?
the motor? or what? can u put in steps .. I need to understand by translate the text
I need your help and I'm from Saudi Arabia I didn't find solution until today
you need to remove the small 12volt motor underneath the master cylinder and have that motor replaced or rebuilt if you are having abs or brake issues
Hey mate who rebuilds them a place in the USA you mean
Nice video, my car is leaking brake fluid I think it might be coming from the reservoir, do you think I would need to rebuild the whole assembly or just replace the reservoir seals?
Cheers
Thank you so much this was extremely helpful
Legend !! thanks for helping us out
$3,500 AU for the assembly is robbery. That's $2,319 USD plus labor. When my motor went out in my 03 4Runner, I went to the junkyard and pulled motor/accumulator from a Lexus GS300 and fixed mine for $60.
Are you in W
Hi Mate,
Anyone in Melbourne, who can help me with this? I have a 2003 Prado 120 Grande and having the same issue. So far using a hammer to tap the motor and keep the car going, I need someone who can help me disassemble the Accumulator. Thanks
you have to remove your brake booster assembly either yourself or by a mechanic and send your accumulator motor to a motor rewind business, rapid rewind in queensland did mine, was a week or so turnaround getting the motor repaired, the fact you hit it with a hammer and works means your brushes in the motor are worn out
I took my 12v pump off only and sent it to rapid power brisane to be overhauled cost $180. 100 series 203 sarhra 280k
I phoned the new number and spoke to Mark (rapid rewire) great help ,there main office number is being repaired ,they have changed their address .thank you so much for your help ..neil
Ive just out of the blue lost my brakes in my 2000 model Cruiser, ABS light on, and alarm sounding. Tried reading the codes, and it flashes 2 times, then 5 times. My mechanic said about $3000 to fix......... Im wondering if its easier to pull it out like you did and get the motor fixed, but im not sure if it was the motor.
good chance its just the motor if you have no brake peddle as the motor drives the pump to give you brake pressure
@@innovationelectronicsaustr4310 how do you reset the abs lights and warning buzzer in the dash I changed a wheel speed sensor, old one was bent at the tip i suspect from when my hub was rebuilt. put a new wheel speed sensor in but need to clear the codes.
Cheers maaate
If this was a Land Rover, you would have 10 times more failures.....
But the Land Rover failures would occur in your driveway.
Sorry mate, I can't understand a word you are saying.
If you are buying a new electric motor for your unit, you might find this video helpful. ua-cam.com/video/E5NoyVjZAWo/v-deo.html
Hi sir, I have leaking break fluid on my landcruiser. toyota wants to buy the whole unit, and after replaced, they want to program the abs total to 6 thousand dollars.