This comment is to clarify the repair and I won't be making any further comments again. (I feel people are missing the point of this job) 1) This repair at it's finished state looks great, colour match & shape are perfect & you could not tell it was repaired. 2) Buying a panel? Why would I buy a panel and waste money? it would not make the job look any better at the finish, This job is to show people the repair without the panel & what can be done using this method in many rust repair jobs. Don't assume you are getting a good repair just because they buy a panel, if the welds are not protected, if the wrong fillers is used then over a small period of time you will get lovely rust blisters starting to appear. Same thing applies to a 1/4 panel fitted, the joints show the quality of the job over time. 3) The welding penetrated and the panel was secured, it will last for years & years (I understand if it was a weld that would be seen when finished it would need to look nicer) 4) I have been involved in body repairs for years, the most important thing is to get rid of any corrosion, seal it correctly, use fibreglass for water proofing the repair and make sure the correct temperatures are used for heating panels and spraying, including baking the spray booth or at the very least infrared lamps & heat guns if you can't afford a booth finish. 5) This is not a primary structure & should not be treated like one. 6) All our repairs we take huge pride in, meaning the overall job is of a high standard every time. Engineer approved work goes on in our workshop for Vehicle Testing Certs all of the time, We have had 0 jobs that failed to be approved. 7) If you are a professional rust weld repair master technician. WHY ARE YOU WATCHING THIS VIDEO????? :) 8) If you made it this far you done well :) Thanks for watching and taking the time to read this.
Great job, only thing I'd suggest is to use an epoxy or self etching primer on the inside of the sill instead of high build. Going to do this on my mx5 though shortly. Thanks!
You don't owe this explanation to any cunt. Thanks for the vid man, it's helping my decision making in the battle of "is this VH commodore worth the 3k headache"
Well said top job these people on here with silly comments about your welding knobheads I would have done what you have and fiberglass Shape in then masked line and shultz if spelt that right lol 😂 nice Job it's a van lol
I'm a retired sparky now watching this takes me back to the days when I used to repair my vehicles with rotten sills i would cutout all the rusty completely and weld new ones
Excellent video and thanks for sharing. It takes guts to put up the reality of these repairs knowing all the 'know alls" that will come on to judge. You did a veey neat and practical repair to my mind and ld be happy with it if it was my van. Subscribed. Thanks again for sharing
Thanks so much for the kind words, there will always be negative comments and "know it alls" If I had any suspension that it was not a long lasting repair I would never do it, we take a lot of pride in our work in this workshop, Thanks again for taking the time to comment & subscribe, it is much appreciated.
Personally I'd be pleased with that work you did, it finished up well and will last longer than other parts of the vehicle. Fiberglas material and epoxy resin is I think from my one experience better that Fiberglas and polyester resin, better catch ( grip ) on metal and not porous like polyester as polyester with no gel coat is pervious to water. I know it's all sealed afterwards anyway and epoxy is dear compared to polyester although epoxy makes a great filler too with talc mixed in for the final fills. Yes you can buy bubbles, I think it's called ( a filler compound for mixing in instead of talc, I used flour once on a boat keel to fill bite like missing chunks, it was my own boat. Eight years later and in and out of the sea and it's so good I can't remember exactly where the damage was. I have an old Talbot express campervan and I think I may need to do a few patches on the inner sills, the outer sills are in good order and replaced I think. I'll not know until I get a good dry day to get under it and have a proper look though. I have an inverter stick welder with 2mm welding rods and I can reverse the polarity for thinner steel, I've welded thin steel a few times with it but you can't hang about or you end up welding up the holes you just created. Do you think I should invest in a mig welder as with a 27 year old van that I plan to hang onto for a good while I may need ongoing welding done? I've never mig welded before. Is it really expensive to get it done by someone like yourself? Oh, greetings from the north, my wife is from Kanturk Co Cork.
I always though people repaired by fabricating their own panels from scratch. I like your idea using the wing, pointless curving it when it's mostly the shape you need already and the same thickness. Plus saves money :) Nice work
A bit rough on the welding young man. The MOT garage I do welding for wouldn't let me back if I welded a repair like that. Interesting video though because I am quoting for a repair on a Transit Connect this week.
Nice video. Trying to do up an 03 one of these... with no experience... (garage keep telling me to get rid of it but I bought it to do up.. kind the whole point) I'd be interested in a full inner and outer sill replacement and fixing of the jack points as when you cut outer sill off sometimes the inner sill is rusted at the bottom too including jack points. Noticed allot of people mentioning rusty jack points on Connects and other vehicles that are being damaged by single arm hydraulic lifts. They pull them to one side and either crumble or bend the points making them unusable. Not good when you're stopped at the side of the road with a puncture and can't lift to change it with OEM jack. Also pointers about paint were very useful as I don't have proper facility and to try protect quickly, I've applied in cold windy and sometimes wet weather and rust bubbles through again two years later. Need some where sheltered to work and will try warming the area to be painted first before trying again. Never thought of the temperature.
Thanks for the comment, Good luck with the project they are always fun :) I am glad you found it useful. I will be posting some more related to the connect in the future
Hello mate, I was hope you could share your experience and share what tools I will need to learn how to weld? I have a Mercedes Vario to tackle and will need to treat and replace any damage from rust corrosion. Would really appreciate your guidance.
You can not use fibreglass to repair the structure I.E if the welding panel was not underneath this fix. A lot of jobs were tried to be brushed through by rubbing fibreglass over a rusted area instead of removing the corroded part, leaving a very bad repair that did not rectify the issue. In Ireland before you go back in for the retest the repair must be visible if the item has failed on the area already, then you can repair it (cosmetically) however you like after they approve it.
Gerat vid pal and solid looking work. Can you put a price to this job? I've 5 spots to sort on my Fiat Ducato, but no welding experience. Hoping to get an idea on cost. Cheers.
is there water entering behind the bodywork and then rusting internally? as surly the water externally wouldn't stay on the bodywork long enough to start to corrode?!? prevention rather than a cure. just wanted to know your thoughts, cheers. ps I have zero experience on fixing cars.
Never used it. Is it something you would recommend as a long lastly product. I am always open to using better products in the workshop. Proven ones not like sales reps telling you they are great :)
i thought the welding was bad, i have only welded a few times and mine is often better than that. to be fairs its more about cleaning the van up that structure
LD.....It's a gas-less system; flux is in the wire; I have one; they make a splattering F***** mess inspite of using anti -splatter spray. Not technically MIG (Manual Inert Gas)
JonPlopp To be honest I thought his repair was decent until I saw the quality of his welding which is very poor but those gas less mig welders are very difficult to weld with properly
Lucky he wasn't welding a showpiece then, it'll do the job since it's not holding the vehicle together or anything. A of people watching the video are amateurs DIY people so I don't know if they'll do a better job with one of those gasless things either 😂
Hello. I brought a connect a few years ago mine had blow engine so put an engine out of a focus in, it had been off the road 3 years and bodywork was pretty good they are great vans love it. I noticed saturday the o/s sill is going i have ordered the 2 meter sill repair cover panel off ebay. its nowhere near as bad as this one and not come through yet but if you press on the area you can feel its gone. Not sure how im going to do it ive only got ark welder will be too powerful and body work not really my thing. will cut the rust out first then thinking of bonding the repair panel over the top. what you think?
I reckon you should expose all the rust spots on the sill to see the exact rust level when stripped down, I would not go down the route of bonding unless you have no other options. The problems with fitting over and not fitting in will be the joints and how long the repair would stay 100% bonded, you will have a decent bit of filling to flush them in and if they ever move the filling will crack and so will your paint. the area that they are means the jacking could cause issues as well. For a long lasting finish I would recommend welding, I done a continuous weld but spot welding can work great too and requires less time. Depends on the tools you can get your hands on. Best of luck with it.
Gerard Burke thanks Gerard, yes i will see how bad the rust is when the panel comes if i can get my hands a mig will have a bash at welding it in place looking at it, it's going to have to be spot welded along the bottom seam, may buy one of them small mini migs. i did weld a floor in my old transit mk5 with the ark but think it maybe to powerful for this. looking forward to more of your connect videos
Mig spot welding sounds like a plan ;) cheers for the comments, I am enjoying the jobs as I always do, any free time I have is going into it. Timing belt and water pump is done and back together. waiting on a new alternator to come and then it will be ready for bodywork, wheels bonnet etc.. & bring it for testing
Gerard Burke yeah i painted my wheels ended up putting trims over aswell. Put a new timing belt and wp on my replacement engine the hardest part of the job was swapping the diesel pump. i swapped because the pump is coded to the ECU for immobilizer and i didn't want to have to pay for someone to come out and charge me stupid money to recode. seems like the sills is the only troublesome spot for rust on the connect. also check the panel that holds the radiator up mine was rotten and radiator dropping down
Thanks, i suspect this repair will outlast the van without doubt. I need to do a similar repair on my transit so appreciate the tips. Fuck all the know it alls... they just want to try and look better than you
good tidy job. subbed. i was looking at 2003 ford transit that was cheap but the sills are rotten in some places. i might give a try if the vans not too far gone.
Surely a correct repair panel would have been a tidier job without the need for fiberglass or too much filler????? Also, did those welds actually penetrate fully?
If you want to spend money buying panels by all means go ahead, I didn't need to as I have experience in these jobs & it saves me hassle, yes you would have less filler but that is not an issue as the structure is 100% & the filler is not a large amount more of a skim. The welding came out really good (in regards to re securing & penetration) and I did a continuous weld which makes the structure of the repair like new. (this type of repair is engineer approved) the beauty of the weld does not ever bother me unless it will be visible after repair, if it was then I agree it should look better. As for tidier I am not sure what you mean?? if you look at the finished result on my last video you can clearly see it came out very nice, I take a massive amount of pride in my repairs and my work and I would not settle until the repair was of a very high standard.
How much would this procedure cost through a garage? Thinking of buying a 2001 sprinter and noticed a couple of small rust holes in the sill. Maybe 1 to 2cm in diameter
I garentee you them small holes mate will actually be more than you think I've personally welded loads of transit and other vans over the years most welding jobs are very time consuming garages can be very expensive pal honestly you best of finding a freind who's handy with a welder or maybe look on face book for someone that can do it on cheap pal most garages have 2 eople on the job 1 to watch out for fires in the cab on most jobs
I put in mesh and filled with isopon on a transit and got away with it on test. I didn't have a welder at the time but it was a fast way out of it. My van just not worth too much time Have to do some more tomorrow. Rust buckets they are.
No, there was rot showing from the inside out, there must be a defect with water/condensation lodging inside the sill and not properly sealed in these areas from factory. No stone chips would have caused this.
It doesn't always :) My welding in this is not pretty but it did what i needed. My mig welder is difficult to have smooth running on lighter gauge material without burning through so it is trigger on & off a lot to allow temp levels to drop in between.
ArLo W Not always, but this one looks pretty ugly, I agree. But it is hard to weld pointing the MIG gun upwards. Most of the time sealer material is melting during welding and pouring on the mig gun,plus burnt gases from paint and such get in the way of the shielding gas giving you a hard time. I don't work in an approved garage, but I am a qualified panel beater. My MIG welder is probably old as I am,and it's far the best welder, but that welding could have been done more nicely even with a 12V battery. If I call my wife and give her instruction on the phone, she could make nicer welds
Cheers, wish I could drive like him 😉 and also drive them cars 🤗 Your comment brought me straight back to the video below when we were up at Japfest watching him put on a show, unreal. ua-cam.com/video/NiI8v3YJ06M/v-deo.html
No rust encapsulation done whatsoever that I saw. It doesn't take much additional effort to spray some etch primer or something on the inner panel and the new repair before filling
Is there a product that you would highly recommend? I value your input and while I did use a very good high build primer going that extra yard is a good idea for even longer lasting results in future projects. I had a very bad experience years ago when rust inhibitor paint causing a reaction in my finish coats, ended up grinding it all down to base & starting again :(
People have their different favourites. I like the Eastwood products, if they're available where you are (UK I'm guessing). Their Rust Encapsulator would be perfect for what you're doing in this video, i.e. you've de-scaled and cleaned up the rusted area in preparation and the area just needs to be sealed off. This encapsulator leaves a paintable finish.
![Ford Transit Van Rust Holes [MOT FAIL!] Welding Repair Guide For UK 2.2 FWD Van | 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XV0XitYZ_EQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This comment is to clarify the repair and I won't be making any further comments again. (I feel people are missing the point of this job)
1) This repair at it's finished state looks great, colour match & shape are perfect & you could not tell it was repaired.
2) Buying a panel? Why would I buy a panel and waste money? it would not make the job look any better at the finish, This job is to show people the repair without the panel & what can be done using this method in many rust repair jobs. Don't assume you are getting a good repair just because they buy a panel, if the welds are not protected, if the wrong fillers is used then over a small period of time you will get lovely rust blisters starting to appear. Same thing applies to a 1/4 panel fitted, the joints show the quality of the job over time.
3) The welding penetrated and the panel was secured, it will last for years & years (I understand if it was a weld that would be seen when finished it would need to look nicer)
4) I have been involved in body repairs for years, the most important thing is to get rid of any corrosion, seal it correctly, use fibreglass for water proofing the repair and make sure the correct temperatures are used for heating panels and spraying, including baking the spray booth or at the very least infrared lamps & heat guns if you can't afford a booth finish.
5) This is not a primary structure & should not be treated like one.
6) All our repairs we take huge pride in, meaning the overall job is of a high standard every time. Engineer approved work goes on in our workshop for Vehicle Testing Certs all of the time, We have had 0 jobs that failed to be approved.
7) If you are a professional rust weld repair master technician. WHY ARE YOU WATCHING THIS VIDEO????? :)
8) If you made it this far you done well :) Thanks for watching and taking the time to read this.
Great job, only thing I'd suggest is to use an epoxy or self etching primer on the inside of the sill instead of high build. Going to do this on my mx5 though shortly. Thanks!
Hi. Could u tell me how much it cost u roughly ? Thanks
Well done! Number 7 is my fave! Too video, you've given me courage 👊
You don't owe this explanation to any cunt. Thanks for the vid man, it's helping my decision making in the battle of "is this VH commodore worth the 3k headache"
Well said top job these people on here with silly comments about your welding knobheads I would have done what you have and fiberglass Shape in then masked line and shultz if spelt that right lol 😂 nice Job it's a van lol
I'm a retired sparky now watching this takes me back to the days when I used to repair my vehicles with rotten sills i would cutout all the rusty completely and weld new ones
i dont know bout that welding.
Excellent video and thanks for sharing. It takes guts to put up the reality of these repairs knowing all the 'know alls" that will come on to judge.
You did a veey neat and practical repair to my mind and ld be happy with it if it was my van.
Subscribed. Thanks again for sharing
Thanks so much for the kind words, there will always be negative comments and "know it alls"
If I had any suspension that it was not a long lasting repair I would never do it, we take a lot of pride in our work in this workshop,
Thanks again for taking the time to comment & subscribe, it is much appreciated.
i enjoy most of these sorts of videos and learn a lot. its great to see one from the uk.
Thanks very much & I am glad you enjoyed it.
I am from Ireland though but close enough :)
UK my arse
Personally I'd be pleased with that work you did, it finished up well and will last longer than other parts of the vehicle.
Fiberglas material and epoxy resin is I think from my one experience better that Fiberglas and polyester resin, better catch ( grip ) on metal and not porous like polyester as polyester with no gel coat is pervious to water.
I know it's all sealed afterwards anyway and epoxy is dear compared to polyester although epoxy makes a great filler too with talc mixed in for the final fills.
Yes you can buy bubbles, I think it's called ( a filler compound for mixing in instead of talc, I used flour once on a boat keel to fill bite like missing chunks, it was my own boat. Eight years later and in and out of the sea and it's so good I can't remember exactly where the damage was.
I have an old Talbot express campervan and I think I may need to do a few patches on the inner sills, the outer sills are in good order and replaced I think. I'll not know until I get a good dry day to get under it and have a proper look though.
I have an inverter stick welder with 2mm welding rods and I can reverse the polarity for thinner steel, I've welded thin steel a few times with it but you can't hang about or you end up welding up the holes you just created.
Do you think I should invest in a mig welder as with a 27 year old van that I plan to hang onto for a good while I may need ongoing welding done? I've never mig welded before.
Is it really expensive to get it done by someone like yourself?
Oh, greetings from the north, my wife is from Kanturk Co Cork.
Great work, thanks for the video. I appreciate you taking the time to show how to do this repair.
And I appreciate the comment. thanks Andy
Just mig welded two holes on sill,video helped a lot 👍
before priming the inner surface rust, try using Loctite rust remedy first to make sure it doesn't come back up, it will now in your case
I always though people repaired by fabricating their own panels from scratch. I like your idea using the wing, pointless curving it when it's mostly the shape you need already and the same thickness. Plus saves money :)
Nice work
Good step by step video 👍
Great job, thoroughly enjoyed watching it. Helps me tackle my own 'water soluble' citroen c15 van! :)
Best of luck with it :)
A bit rough on the welding young man. The MOT garage I do welding for wouldn't let me back if I welded a repair like that. Interesting video though because I am quoting for a repair on a Transit Connect this week.
Show your welding then?
Nice video. Trying to do up an 03 one of these... with no experience... (garage keep telling me to get rid of it but I bought it to do up.. kind the whole point) I'd be interested in a full inner and outer sill replacement and fixing of the jack points as when you cut outer sill off sometimes the inner sill is rusted at the bottom too including jack points. Noticed allot of people mentioning rusty jack points on Connects and other vehicles that are being damaged by single arm hydraulic lifts. They pull them to one side and either crumble or bend the points making them unusable. Not good when you're stopped at the side of the road with a puncture and can't lift to change it with OEM jack. Also pointers about paint were very useful as I don't have proper facility and to try protect quickly, I've applied in cold windy and sometimes wet weather and rust bubbles through again two years later. Need some where sheltered to work and will try warming the area to be painted first before trying again. Never thought of the temperature.
Thanks for the comment, Good luck with the project they are always fun :) I am glad you found it useful. I will be posting some more related to the connect in the future
Good video, thanks, never new how to fix sills before an will be needing to soon,
Brilliant job mate 👍
Thanks Jason
Looks good to me. The welds didn't need to look pretty, they just needed to be solid. The end result looks great.
Hello mate, I was hope you could share your experience and share what tools I will need to learn how to weld?
I have a Mercedes Vario to tackle and will need to treat and replace any damage from rust corrosion.
Would really appreciate your guidance.
Bro nice welds
Hi good video I was told you cant use fibreglass on sills has it won’t go through mot is this correct?
You can not use fibreglass to repair the structure I.E if the welding panel was not underneath this fix. A lot of jobs were tried to be brushed through by rubbing fibreglass over a rusted area instead of removing the corroded part, leaving a very bad repair that did not rectify the issue.
In Ireland before you go back in for the retest the repair must be visible if the item has failed on the area already, then you can repair it (cosmetically) however you like after they approve it.
Would a small Arc welding plant work for this repair?? Or would the metal be too thin to weld?
Gerat vid pal and solid looking work. Can you put a price to this job? I've 5 spots to sort on my Fiat Ducato, but no welding experience. Hoping to get an idea on cost. Cheers.
Would noodles and glue work?
Good work
🙏🙏 Thanks Martin
how you hold second part you welded?
is there water entering behind the bodywork and then rusting internally? as surly the water externally wouldn't stay on the bodywork long enough to start to corrode?!? prevention rather than a cure. just wanted to know your thoughts, cheers. ps I have zero experience on fixing cars.
"Hammerite krust off " brush on to metal that has that brown rust stain , before priming that inner seal ,
Never used it. Is it something you would recommend as a long lastly product. I am always open to using better products in the workshop. Proven ones not like sales reps telling you they are great :)
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage 4 years later... it turns rust black
seems to work well!
Was the welder out of gas
i thought the welding was bad, i have only welded a few times and mine is often better than that. to be fairs its more about cleaning the van up that structure
LD.....It's a gas-less system; flux is in the wire; I have one; they make a splattering F***** mess inspite of using anti -splatter spray. Not technically MIG (Manual Inert Gas)
JonPlopp To be honest I thought his repair was decent until I saw the quality of his welding which is very poor but those gas less mig welders are very difficult to weld with properly
Lucky he wasn't welding a showpiece then, it'll do the job since it's not holding the vehicle together or anything. A of people watching the video are amateurs DIY people so I don't know if they'll do a better job with one of those gasless things either 😂
How much roughly would I expect to pay to have this done?
about 300 quid just for all that weld lol
Estimated cost?
Hello. I brought a connect a few years ago mine had blow engine so put an engine out of a focus in, it had been off the road 3 years and bodywork was pretty good they are great vans love it. I noticed saturday the o/s sill is going i have ordered the 2 meter sill repair cover panel off ebay. its nowhere near as bad as this one and not come through yet but if you press on the area you can feel its gone. Not sure how im going to do it ive only got ark welder will be too powerful and body work not really my thing. will cut the rust out first then thinking of bonding the repair panel over the top. what you think?
I reckon you should expose all the rust spots on the sill to see the exact rust level when stripped down, I would not go down the route of bonding unless you have no other options. The problems with fitting over and not fitting in will be the joints and how long the repair would stay 100% bonded, you will have a decent bit of filling to flush them in and if they ever move the filling will crack and so will your paint. the area that they are means the jacking could cause issues as well.
For a long lasting finish I would recommend welding, I done a continuous weld but spot welding can work great too and requires less time.
Depends on the tools you can get your hands on.
Best of luck with it.
Gerard Burke thanks Gerard, yes i will see how bad the rust is when the panel comes if i can get my hands a mig will have a bash at welding it in place looking at it, it's going to have to be spot welded along the bottom seam, may buy one of them small mini migs. i did weld a floor in my old transit mk5 with the ark but think it maybe to powerful for this. looking forward to more of your connect videos
Mig spot welding sounds like a plan ;) cheers for the comments, I am enjoying the jobs as I always do, any free time I have is going into it. Timing belt and water pump is done and back together. waiting on a new alternator to come and then it will be ready for bodywork, wheels bonnet etc.. & bring it for testing
Gerard Burke yeah i painted my wheels ended up putting trims over aswell. Put a new timing belt and wp on my replacement engine the hardest part of the job was swapping the diesel pump. i swapped because the pump is coded to the ECU for immobilizer and i didn't want to have to pay for someone to come out and charge me stupid money to recode. seems like the sills is the only troublesome spot for rust on the connect. also check the panel that holds the radiator up mine was rotten and radiator dropping down
just uploaded a 30 second clip of my sill have a look if you got time mate
great work.. POR15 is supposed to be good for rust aswell..
Hows the repair holding up?
Great, no issues
How much does a repair like that go for?
Yep...that's the Ford Transit for you !!
What would this cost?
Thanks, i suspect this repair will outlast the van without doubt. I need to do a similar repair on my transit so appreciate the tips. Fuck all the know it alls... they just want to try and look better than you
Yes that's come up well. That should last for years.
good tidy job. subbed. i was looking at 2003 ford transit that was cheap but the sills are rotten in some places. i might give a try if the vans not too far gone.
Thanks
What if you don't have that much sill left
Welding looked ruff.
Have you ever tried to weld a Ford transit sill ?. I don't think you have, try it with a mig welder and tell how you get on.
Looks like you have porosity in your welds but looks ok
@@grahamchurchal2986 sill is a sill get your settings right and it is all the same. It is bad welding but if he's only a beginner fair play for trying
Surely a correct repair panel would have been a tidier job without the need for fiberglass or too much filler?????
Also, did those welds actually penetrate fully?
If you want to spend money buying panels by all means go ahead, I didn't need to as I have experience in these jobs & it saves me hassle, yes you would have less filler but that is not an issue as the structure is 100% & the filler is not a large amount more of a skim. The welding came out really good (in regards to re securing & penetration) and I did a continuous weld which makes the structure of the repair like new. (this type of repair is engineer approved) the beauty of the weld does not ever bother me unless it will be visible after repair, if it was then I agree it should look better.
As for tidier I am not sure what you mean?? if you look at the finished result on my last video you can clearly see it came out very nice, I take a massive amount of pride in my repairs and my work and I would not settle until the repair was of a very high standard.
How much would this procedure cost through a garage?
Thinking of buying a 2001 sprinter and noticed a couple of small rust holes in the sill. Maybe 1 to 2cm in diameter
I garentee you them small holes mate will actually be more than you think I've personally welded loads of transit and other vans over the years most welding jobs are very time consuming garages can be very expensive pal honestly you best of finding a freind who's handy with a welder or maybe look on face book for someone that can do it on cheap pal most garages have 2 eople on the job 1 to watch out for fires in the cab on most jobs
I put in mesh and filled with isopon on a transit and got away with it on test. I didn't have a welder at the time but it was a fast way out of it. My van just not worth too much time Have to do some more tomorrow. Rust buckets they are.
How old was this van ?
2007
Gerard Burke possibly a stone chip that’s started this ?
No, there was rot showing from the inside out, there must be a defect with water/condensation lodging inside the sill and not properly sealed in these areas from factory. No stone chips would have caused this.
why does mig welding always look like crap?
It doesn't always :) My welding in this is not pretty but it did what i needed. My mig welder is difficult to have smooth running on lighter gauge material without burning through so it is trigger on & off a lot to allow temp levels to drop in between.
not when done properly seam welding it gives a much better finish
ArLo W Not always, but this one looks pretty ugly, I agree. But it is hard to weld pointing the MIG gun upwards. Most of the time sealer material is melting during welding and pouring on the mig gun,plus burnt gases from paint and such get in the way of the shielding gas giving you a hard time.
I don't work in an approved garage, but I am a qualified panel beater. My MIG welder is probably old as I am,and it's far the best welder, but that welding could have been done more nicely even with a 12V battery. If I call my wife and give her instruction on the phone, she could make nicer welds
i bought a bmw e46 320d 2002 English import for a drift car the car came to irelad in 2007 and there is so much more rust than an irish car
I have seen tidier jobs but then it is just a van so it’s probably not worth trying to make it perfect and if it does the job that’s all that matters
How much would a job like that cost you
Salt street ?
Is this James Deane? Formula drift champion?
3 time champ 😉😂😂😂
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage you’ve heard that before then! 🤣Great video btw
Cheers,
wish I could drive like him 😉 and also drive them cars 🤗
Your comment brought me straight back to the video below when we were up at Japfest watching him put on a show, unreal.
ua-cam.com/video/NiI8v3YJ06M/v-deo.html
@@GerardBurkeBurkesGarage don’t we all haha! 😅 Will check that out dude
mine had them too,
lol at infrared lamp, ie blow lamp
But isnt inner sill also rusty? You said its solid.
No rust encapsulation done whatsoever that I saw. It doesn't take much additional effort to spray some etch primer or something on the inner panel and the new repair before filling
Is there a product that you would highly recommend? I value your input and while I did use a very good high build primer going that extra yard is a good idea for even longer lasting results in future projects. I had a very bad experience years ago when rust inhibitor paint causing a reaction in my finish coats, ended up grinding it all down to base & starting again :(
People have their different favourites. I like the Eastwood products, if they're available where you are (UK I'm guessing). Their Rust Encapsulator would be perfect for what you're doing in this video, i.e. you've de-scaled and cleaned up the rusted area in preparation and the area just needs to be sealed off. This encapsulator leaves a paintable finish.
Thanks for the info, I will be interested in checking out the products further.
you sound like james deane
My 52 reg Trafic has no rust! Bloody fords always rust, why not galvanise them?!!
F**k me you welded that with a shot gun
In my eyes this job was done wrong but end result looked good thank f**k it looked like a 30 30 🤔 30 yard or 30 mins garantee