A simple trick I learnt is tighten everything up until it strips and then back it off a quarter of a turn. Been using this method for years and it's never let me down.
Here are my two cents: I don't use torque values for the steering head bearings, especially for Roller Bearings. First I tighten them up to get them seated, then loosen them again until no play is in the Head bearings. I don't tighten any more than that. The Steering stem nut will bre pressing down on the lock ring anyway! Also play in the Head Bearings is checked when all is installed again (fork, wheel etc.). Always worked for me and I wouldn't trust those Nm values in the manual. (42Nm for the oil drain bolt on the T7?... Way too much...) Sometimes it's better to rely on skill and experience than on those workshop manuals. In my early years of being a mechanic I always looked in the manual and did things the way they were described and stripped an awful lot of bolts while fiddling around with a torque wrench. I now take a ratchet and feel the bolt getting seated and never had a problem with stripped bolts again. It also makes a difference which size of wrench you use (1/2", 3/8" or 1/4") when tightening by torque value. Always use the smallest wrench for a given torque value! Just a tip... Don't use a big 1/2" wrench if you need to tighten something with 30Nm... Use a shorter 3/8". For 7Nm I would recommend a 1/4" wrench. That wrench in this video is way too big for that and with your home made tool I doubt it got the 7. Personally I wouldn't seat the Head Bearings with 75Nm... and I personally wouldn't tighten them with 7Nm and call it a day... Could be too tight or too loose. Thanks for the video!
The size of the wrench or adapter drive plays no role in the torque transmitted to the fastener. You can use a 3/4 drive extension to torque something to 50 in-lbs if you want. Now the only case where this doesn’t apply is if you do the OPPOSITE of what you suggest. If I’m using a 6” long 1/4” drive extension on something being torqued to 80 ft lbs, the torque being transmitted to the fastener will be altered due to flex in the extension (assuming it doesn’t break).
It only does it if you have the lever at a 90 degree angle compared to your torque wrench so the force "stays" in the "orbit" of the rotational movement of your wrench. The way he does it at 3:20 and 5:00 is inreasing the torque by the amount of the length of the lever that sticks "out of that orbit" so the diameter/distance of the "orbit" increases, so does the force applied to the nut. Torque is force times distance. If you lengthen your torque wrench artificially with such a lever that just goes straight out, it is increasing your rotational orbit and thus torque value applied to the nut, bolt or whatever you are trying to tighten.
@@stevewill3572 Imagine a circle that touches both ends of your wrench. That's how the force is applied to the nut/bolt etc. It's an "orbit" the same length/diameter as your wrench. If you attach a lever at a 90° angle, both ends of the lever still touches the circle without inreasing its diameter and thus you apply the same force you set on your wrench. If the lever you attach to your wrench is not at that angle but let's just say 20° or 30° it will increase the diameter of that circle or orbit and thus the distance or length of the wrench. Torque is force times length. The result by increasing the circle is a higher torque value applied to your bolt or nut etc....
Hmm, since I've found this, someone else might too - just a reminder, if you _do_ want to set it properly, RTFM. T7 Service Manual Pg 3-19 (the one before shown at the beginning of the video): "Set the torque wrench at a right angle to the steering nut wrench." The Yamaha engineers know that using the 90890-01403 steering nut wrench in-line to extend the moment arm of the wrench will over torque the bearings. Note the warning: "Do not overtighten the lower ring nut."
Good one, always read the effing manual 👌, and many ppl would have missed the second instructions to loosen it and than put 7Nm. The “proper” tool is not to expensive from Yama when I asked, but way more than engine alignment tool for the swing arm 😬
@@Nerb1 to make no difference the torque wrench must act at 90deg to your off-set lever. All aligned the setting needs to be calculated to allow for it. Not that practically it would make any difference to what your doing there. The seating pressure give or take or the final load give or take.
@@Nerb1 I look forward to what your explanation will be but if you google "torque wrench extension formula" you'll see the physics and formula behind extending a torque wrench.
Yes it's the bigger washer, you got that right in the end, lol. The head stock nut @ 148nm, me too didn't think that was right. Too tight but yep that's how tight it is. At first I only did it up firm then I started to notice some creaking in the front like something was lose after a couple of rides. Check the head stock nut and it was lose. So this nut needs to be tight. Me too had to do the job twice.
Fucking awesome video dude, i too often see friends screw things up when working on bikes, i have screwed literally everything up on each of my bikes at least once. HOT TIP for anyone who wants a workshop manual, find a PDF copy online, and get officeworks to print and bind it!
Worked a treat! I actually made 2... first one is in the thumbnail, but i bent it. It was a bit flimsy. Then I found some thick ali plate. Thanks heaps for the plans ;)
The torque value is skewed with that spanner and torque wrench set up. I don't think it's the same as if you had it straight on the spanner nut. I'm pretty sure.
Nice one Nerb,well done mate. The same principle applies to all tapered steering/ wheel bearings. You were lucky someone pointed out about correct washers for your handle bar steering clamps nuts, it could have ended up disastrous on the tracks. Do you have a link for the C spanner or temp plate plan. Would be a handy tool for my workshop for future T7 repairs. Thanks Hwy Hal
The Yamaha special tool part number is in the manual, if you search ebay for that number you'll find cheap copies. I got on for 10 pounds much less faff than making it
I think my video is better than his "read off the manual" video ;) Watch this and let me know if I explained well enough? ua-cam.com/video/YU-j_JXMNZU/v-deo.html
Torque specs from a manual are usually for factory steel ball bearing type. If you are upgrading to tapered roller bearings they do not require such high toque as they spread the load over a larger surface area. I have found that 30 lb ft to set the races then back off and finger tighten plus about 1/8th turn does the trick. Remember to rotate the bars lock to lock 3 or 4 times before backing off nut. After a few hundred miles go back and re check.
while in lockdown im going head to toe on my husaberg. It didn"t need the maintenance that bad but now its getting new bits thrown at it, Will almost be showroom quality again.
Love your videos Nerb. Wish you’d bought a Ktm 890 rather than a t700. Could’ve helped me with all my Ktm amateur bikeworkx. Anyway keep em coming they’re great
@Nerb1 The extension needs to be 90 deg to the C spanner shaft that you made otherwise you have increase the fulcrum length of the torque wrench. The way you completed it will have applied more than 80Nm of torque which contradicts the "Do not over tighten the lower ring nut" warning Watch this as it displays what I trying to explain 👍🏻 🇦🇺 ua-cam.com/video/HTpYID50F3g/v-deo.html
@@Nerb1 the torque being applied to the wrench is being applied to the torque wrench head at approximately the set point on the handle. The torque being applied at the nut end of your extension tool is going to be more than the torque wrench set point because the lever arm length has increased by the length of the added tool (assuming its kept straight) . . if the torque wrench is 300mm and you add a 150mm C spanner inline with the torque wrench you now have a lever arm length of 450mm.
Hm 🤔 I’m not educated regarding mechanics and physics… However I was thinking as I watched you “struggle” with that homemade “special tool”. Wouldn’t it be easier using one if it was made from a “steel pipe/tube” with teeth to match in one end and welded closed in the other, with a square opening to fit your torque wrench. More importantly, wouldn't the torque be more accurate when tightened straight over, rather than on the side ? Thanks for great and inspirational content ! 🇳🇴🤠
You are right, but my tool was an exact (excluding rough edges) copy of the Yamaha tool. Thats that the factory uses. But what you describe would clearly be easier!
May want to check the torque specs on those fork pinch bolts as well. Loose is bad. A stretched bolt will break under tension contributing to a loss of control with catastrophic results. Inspector Hill
One problem, when you extend the length of a torque wrench ( using a crows foot as an example) You increase torque value on the nut you are tightening . There are applications on phones for this. When I an aircraft technician in the RAAF, we used to turn the crows foot 90 degrees to the torque wrench.
Well I'm up for new steering head bearings, I'm pretty sure steering head nut was loose from new, always had a small knock in front, thought it was the cluster movement over sharp bumps, anyways became severe knock mid way through 300km off road trip, check your headset bearings torque Dudes!! Great vid 😄 Any chance you could send that plan to make castle nut wrench??
I guess you have never done car wheel bearings before, exactly the same principle, well all tapered needle bearings are the same, you basically have to preload the bearings first and back the off between 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, after doing it a lot of times it becomes a feel thing. Spent a lot of my apprenticeship doing wheel bearings on cars and trucks, repacking wheel bearings on trucks was a very messy job, especially old Bedfords.
Dude, you just over torqued that bearing. Please people DO NOT FOLLOW THIS PROCESS, IT IS WRONG. The torque wrench HAS to be at 90 degrees, the sin of 0 is 0. Sin of 90 is 1. I can explain how to use a crows foot adaptor if you would like but it is basic 6th grade physics.
@@davemason6273 i have a dozen engineers agree with me. You are ignoring the extension and how it is held. You only need to hold the wrench at 90 degrees if you have a rigidly fixed wrench. I wont bother to ask you to think about it, because you clearly are not interested in learning the difference.
Dave, you are not being polite and productive. Look at your caps and exclamation marks. Polite and productive would be to ask a question. Sorry if i was snappy. Im just getting tired of "youre wrong" and then after going through the physics they just dissapear.
@@Nerb1 Hi Nerb1, yes I should have talked with you first, apologies for the caps, a knee jerk reaction. I would like to help so my question is would you like me to try & explain the physics here?
very bad job, you have over-tightened the steering nut, you must apply the force with the dynamometer perpendicular to the wrench you have made, if you do not do so you have to calculate the increase in force that you make when moving the center of the nut from the center of the key.
That would be more than the specified torque, you didn't factor in the extra distance the torque wrench is from the centre of the nut. A tube socket concentric to the nut is what you need ,unless that's a copy of the factory tool
It IS an exact copy of the factory tool. However, a torque applied at any point along a beam transfers the same torque at its mount. It is different than applying a perpendicular load on an extended arm. I feel a physics lesson coming on!
Thanks Nerb, very helpful. Just watch your use of the torque wrench with offset mounting though. Mounting your torque wrench offset from the centre of the bolt can affect the torque settings. I think the way you counter the forces by holding the head of the torque wrench will offset the effect of the extension, but might be worth an explanation so viewers dont get it wrong. This guy shows a good demo of the effect. ua-cam.com/video/4dsAvFNVGRE/v-deo.html&ab_channel=How2Wrench.
Haha, I just read through all the comments and you are copping some flak for the use of the torque wrench. I think you are going to have some fun with this audience! Be gentle though, they are technically correct there is an effect, but the way you did it still works, perhaps not the most accurate method based on feel holding the head of the wrench, but good enough considering the space you had to work in. Cheers.
My video is recorded. Just have to wait for the kids to get kicked of the computer to edit and upload! Im proving you all wrong! Mwaaaahhhhaaaaa..... That video is actually a little misleading. Hopefully I have explained it well enough in my video.
I did... I think you might be the only commenter that knows how it works. The video you linked shows a situation where they cannot hold the head of the wrench with their hand, so they are applying an additional load. I hope you like my video (I'll link it in an hour) as I try to explain it to people ;)
@@Nerb1 Yeah exactly right. If you wanted to use your method reliably, you could use a uni-joint socket extension between torque wrench and your home made extension so that the left hand and right hand must apply equal force.
A simple trick I learnt is tighten everything up until it strips and then back it off a quarter of a turn. Been using this method for years and it's never let me down.
lol, youre a clown Wayne! No doubt about that!
😂😄😬
Here are my two cents:
I don't use torque values for the steering head bearings, especially for Roller Bearings. First I tighten them up to get them seated, then loosen them again until no play is in the Head bearings. I don't tighten any more than that. The Steering stem nut will bre pressing down on the lock ring anyway!
Also play in the Head Bearings is checked when all is installed again (fork, wheel etc.). Always worked for me and I wouldn't trust those Nm values in the manual. (42Nm for the oil drain bolt on the T7?... Way too much...) Sometimes it's better to rely on skill and experience than on those workshop manuals. In my early years of being a mechanic I always looked in the manual and did things the way they were described and stripped an awful lot of bolts while fiddling around with a torque wrench. I now take a ratchet and feel the bolt getting seated and never had a problem with stripped bolts again.
It also makes a difference which size of wrench you use (1/2", 3/8" or 1/4") when tightening by torque value. Always use the smallest wrench for a given torque value! Just a tip... Don't use a big 1/2" wrench if you need to tighten something with 30Nm... Use a shorter 3/8". For 7Nm I would recommend a 1/4" wrench. That wrench in this video is way too big for that and with your home made tool I doubt it got the 7.
Personally I wouldn't seat the Head Bearings with 75Nm... and I personally wouldn't tighten them with 7Nm and call it a day... Could be too tight or too loose.
Thanks for the video!
The size of the wrench or adapter drive plays no role in the torque transmitted to the fastener. You can use a 3/4 drive extension to torque something to 50 in-lbs if you want. Now the only case where this doesn’t apply is if you do the OPPOSITE of what you suggest. If I’m using a 6” long 1/4” drive extension on something being torqued to 80 ft lbs, the torque being transmitted to the fastener will be altered due to flex in the extension (assuming it doesn’t break).
How do you know that the rotational torque at the end of a lever translates to 1:1?
Physics.
Watch this and let me know if I explained well enough? ua-cam.com/video/YU-j_JXMNZU/v-deo.html
It only does it if you have the lever at a 90 degree angle compared to your torque wrench so the force "stays" in the "orbit" of the rotational movement of your wrench. The way he does it at 3:20 and 5:00 is inreasing the torque by the amount of the length of the lever that sticks "out of that orbit" so the diameter/distance of the "orbit" increases, so does the force applied to the nut. Torque is force times distance. If you lengthen your torque wrench artificially with such a lever that just goes straight out, it is increasing your rotational orbit and thus torque value applied to the nut, bolt or whatever you are trying to tighten.
Your torque wrench needs to be 90 degrees with the C wrench. Otherwise the torque is wrong
Can you elaborate on this please. When you say 90 it should make an L shape with the tool and the wrench?
@@stevewill3572 I know this is late, but yes, correct.
@@stevewill3572 Imagine a circle that touches both ends of your wrench. That's how the force is applied to the nut/bolt etc. It's an "orbit" the same length/diameter as your wrench. If you attach a lever at a 90° angle, both ends of the lever still touches the circle without inreasing its diameter and thus you apply the same force you set on your wrench. If the lever you attach to your wrench is not at that angle but let's just say 20° or 30° it will increase the diameter of that circle or orbit and thus the distance or length of the wrench. Torque is force times length. The result by increasing the circle is a higher torque value applied to your bolt or nut etc....
Hmm, since I've found this, someone else might too - just a reminder, if you _do_ want to set it properly, RTFM. T7 Service Manual Pg 3-19 (the one before shown at the beginning of the video): "Set the torque wrench at a right angle to the steering nut wrench." The Yamaha engineers know that using the 90890-01403 steering nut wrench in-line to extend the moment arm of the wrench will over torque the bearings. Note the warning: "Do not overtighten the lower ring nut."
a voice of reason lol
@@jozefsk7456 🙂
Good one, always read the effing manual 👌, and many ppl would have missed the second instructions to loosen it and than put 7Nm.
The “proper” tool is not to expensive from Yama when I asked, but way more than engine alignment tool for the swing arm 😬
The manual also tells you to tighten the oil drain plug with 43Nm which resulted in quite a few destroyed threads in the oil pans.
@@2lbsTrigrPull 🙈 indeed
Your tool should be at 90deg to the torque wrench to be correct
I was in that impression to.. 🤔
Ok, im going to make a video on this. It makes no difference. I'll prove it ;)
Yep you add different lever forces, but it is better than most that go tappy tap tap and call it good.
@@Nerb1 to make no difference the torque wrench must act at 90deg to your off-set lever. All aligned the setting needs to be calculated to allow for it.
Not that practically it would make any difference to what your doing there. The seating pressure give or take or the final load give or take.
@@Nerb1 I look forward to what your explanation will be but if you google "torque wrench extension formula" you'll see the physics and formula behind extending a torque wrench.
Yes it's the bigger washer, you got that right in the end, lol. The head stock nut @ 148nm, me too didn't think that was right. Too tight but yep that's how tight it is. At first I only did it up firm then I started to notice some creaking in the front like something was lose after a couple of rides. Check the head stock nut and it was lose. So this nut needs to be tight. Me too had to do the job twice.
Hi mate. What is the outer diameter of the wrench tool you built for the steering nut? Cheers, Stefan.
Not sure, but it doesnt get in the way of anything. Just make it an inch or so.
wow not many would listen to youtube comments and not many youtube comments are right ,But not on this channel..
Fucking awesome video dude, i too often see friends screw things up when working on bikes, i have screwed literally everything up on each of my bikes at least once. HOT TIP for anyone who wants a workshop manual, find a PDF copy online, and get officeworks to print and bind it!
That was quick! The tool came out pretty good!
Worked a treat! I actually made 2... first one is in the thumbnail, but i bent it. It was a bit flimsy. Then I found some thick ali plate.
Thanks heaps for the plans ;)
@@Nerb1 Glad it worked out! I had a feeling it would be in the back of your mind if you had the correct torque lol
The torque value is skewed with that spanner and torque wrench set up. I don't think it's the same as if you had it straight on the spanner nut. I'm pretty sure.
Love you maintenence videos.. ☕A great sunday watch.
Nice one Nerb,well done mate. The same principle applies to all tapered steering/ wheel bearings.
You were lucky someone pointed out about correct washers for your handle bar steering clamps nuts, it could have ended up disastrous on the tracks.
Do you have a link for the C spanner or temp plate plan. Would be a handy tool for my workshop for future T7 repairs. Thanks Hwy Hal
The Yamaha special tool part number is in the manual, if you search ebay for that number you'll find cheap copies. I got on for 10 pounds much less faff than making it
Less faff, but no fun!
@@Nerb1 a heads up on how to use a torque wrench correctly with a extension. FYI
ua-cam.com/video/HTpYID50F3g/v-deo.html
I think my video is better than his "read off the manual" video ;) Watch this and let me know if I explained well enough? ua-cam.com/video/YU-j_JXMNZU/v-deo.html
@@Nerb1 “Timing” excellent vid Nerb “You could have saved me the reply”. 😀😄
Do you have the dimensions for the tool?
Torque specs from a manual are usually for factory steel ball bearing type. If you are upgrading to tapered roller bearings they do not require such high toque as they spread the load over a larger surface area. I have found that 30 lb ft to set the races then back off and finger tighten plus about 1/8th turn does the trick. Remember to rotate the bars lock to lock 3 or 4 times before backing off nut. After a few hundred miles go back and re check.
Quite a few torque specs in the workshop manuals for Yamaha bikes are too high in my experience.
while in lockdown im going head to toe on my husaberg. It didn"t need the maintenance that bad but now its getting new bits thrown at it, Will almost be showroom quality again.
Love your videos Nerb. Wish you’d bought a Ktm 890 rather than a t700. Could’ve helped me with all my Ktm amateur bikeworkx. Anyway keep em coming they’re great
That's a rather creative adaptor.
When I saw you going at the headstem with a hammer I thought this looks slightly unscientific and the internet police are gonna come after you
Haha... the death threats came thick and fast!
Haha... all you champs are ace. Only helpful advice.
@Nerb1 The extension needs to be 90 deg to the C spanner shaft that you made otherwise you have increase the fulcrum length of the torque wrench. The way you completed it will have applied more than 80Nm of torque which contradicts the "Do not over tighten the lower ring nut" warning Watch this as it displays what I trying to explain 👍🏻 🇦🇺
ua-cam.com/video/HTpYID50F3g/v-deo.html
I will have a video up tonight explaining how you are wrong and how that video doesnt apply... stay tuned ;)
Watch my new video and let me know what you thing.... did it explain the difference to your video adequately? ua-cam.com/video/YU-j_JXMNZU/v-deo.html
@@Nerb1 the torque being applied to the wrench is being applied to the torque wrench head at approximately the set point on the handle. The torque being applied at the nut end of your extension tool is going to be more than the torque wrench set point because the lever arm length has increased by the length of the added tool (assuming its kept straight) . . if the torque wrench is 300mm and you add a 150mm C spanner inline with the torque wrench you now have a lever arm length of 450mm.
Hm 🤔 I’m not educated regarding mechanics and physics… However I was thinking as I watched you “struggle” with that homemade “special tool”. Wouldn’t it be easier using one if it was made from a “steel pipe/tube” with teeth to match in one end and welded closed in the other, with a square opening to fit your torque wrench.
More importantly, wouldn't the torque be more accurate when tightened straight over, rather than on the side ?
Thanks for great and inspirational content ! 🇳🇴🤠
You are right, but my tool was an exact (excluding rough edges) copy of the Yamaha tool. Thats that the factory uses. But what you describe would clearly be easier!
May want to check the torque specs on those fork pinch bolts as well. Loose is bad. A stretched bolt will break under tension contributing to a loss of control with catastrophic results. Inspector Hill
One problem, when you extend the length of a torque wrench ( using a crows foot as an example) You increase torque value on the nut you are tightening . There are applications on phones for this. When I an aircraft technician in the RAAF, we used to turn the crows foot 90 degrees to the torque wrench.
I am making a physics lesson now to answer this question.
Watch this and let me know if I explained well enough? ua-cam.com/video/YU-j_JXMNZU/v-deo.html
Well I'm up for new steering head bearings, I'm pretty sure steering head nut was loose from new, always had a small knock in front, thought it was the cluster movement over sharp bumps, anyways became severe knock mid way through 300km off road trip, check your headset bearings torque Dudes!!
Great vid 😄
Any chance you could send that plan to make castle nut wrench??
Sure. Email me.
I guess you have never done car wheel bearings before, exactly the same principle, well all tapered needle bearings are the same, you basically have to preload the bearings first and back the off between 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, after doing it a lot of times it becomes a feel thing.
Spent a lot of my apprenticeship doing wheel bearings on cars and trucks, repacking wheel bearings on trucks was a very messy job, especially old Bedfords.
Dude, you just over torqued that bearing. Please people DO NOT FOLLOW THIS PROCESS, IT IS WRONG. The torque wrench HAS to be at 90 degrees, the sin of 0 is 0. Sin of 90 is 1. I can explain how to use a crows foot adaptor if you would like but it is basic 6th grade physics.
Wrong. And i proved it. Maybe you forgot your 6th grade physics.
@@Nerb1 go and see my comment on your "proof" video. Think about it!
@@davemason6273 i have a dozen engineers agree with me. You are ignoring the extension and how it is held. You only need to hold the wrench at 90 degrees if you have a rigidly fixed wrench. I wont bother to ask you to think about it, because you clearly are not interested in learning the difference.
Dave, you are not being polite and productive. Look at your caps and exclamation marks. Polite and productive would be to ask a question. Sorry if i was snappy. Im just getting tired of "youre wrong" and then after going through the physics they just dissapear.
@@Nerb1 Hi Nerb1, yes I should have talked with you first, apologies for the caps, a knee jerk reaction. I would like to help so my question is would you like me to try & explain the physics here?
Lockdown torque with Nerb1!
Just ride it on the back wheel who needs forks 😂
Always read the distructions lol
very bad job, you have over-tightened the steering nut, you must apply the force with the dynamometer perpendicular to the wrench you have made, if you do not do so you have to calculate the increase in force that you make when moving the center of the nut from the center of the key.
That would be more than the specified torque, you didn't factor in the extra distance the torque wrench is from the centre of the nut. A tube socket concentric to the nut is what you need ,unless that's a copy of the factory tool
Correct
I also agree
It's a copy of the factory tool
It IS an exact copy of the factory tool. However, a torque applied at any point along a beam transfers the same torque at its mount. It is different than applying a perpendicular load on an extended arm. I feel a physics lesson coming on!
And in English for us nuffies now Nerb1?
Thanks Nerb, very helpful. Just watch your use of the torque wrench with offset mounting though. Mounting your torque wrench offset from the centre of the bolt can affect the torque settings. I think the way you counter the forces by holding the head of the torque wrench will offset the effect of the extension, but might be worth an explanation so viewers dont get it wrong. This guy shows a good demo of the effect. ua-cam.com/video/4dsAvFNVGRE/v-deo.html&ab_channel=How2Wrench.
Haha, I just read through all the comments and you are copping some flak for the use of the torque wrench. I think you are going to have some fun with this audience! Be gentle though, they are technically correct there is an effect, but the way you did it still works, perhaps not the most accurate method based on feel holding the head of the wrench, but good enough considering the space you had to work in. Cheers.
My video is recorded. Just have to wait for the kids to get kicked of the computer to edit and upload! Im proving you all wrong! Mwaaaahhhhaaaaa..... That video is actually a little misleading. Hopefully I have explained it well enough in my video.
@@Nerb1 Looking forward to it. But did you read my comment?
I did... I think you might be the only commenter that knows how it works.
The video you linked shows a situation where they cannot hold the head of the wrench with their hand, so they are applying an additional load. I hope you like my video (I'll link it in an hour) as I try to explain it to people ;)
@@Nerb1 Yeah exactly right. If you wanted to use your method reliably, you could use a uni-joint socket extension between torque wrench and your home made extension so that the left hand and right hand must apply equal force.
Aren't you a vlogger?
Yes... dont listen to me! Haha
RTFM peeps
ffs get back to the 1190
Mauvaise méthode