MORE exciting videos to come?? I don’t know about everyone else, but I’ve been ecstatic watching these last couple vids and seeing all of your progress. Keep it up, man! We’re all rooting for you
Loving this build man I can't wait to see the finished result. I'd love to do something like this to mine but I don't have deep enough pockets or the ball's to do it! I'm pretty sure I'd end up with a junk engine halfway through lol
haha @2:44 it looks like an owl or summit lol. LOVE how edibly clean it all looks super silver and nioce! I also like how it doubles as a functioning perfectly sized phone holder haha me and salmon would do something like that!
Do you think the nv intake cam is a bit too much for the b30 intake cam for na would not need bigger intake for to match the nv cam haven't seen much were it shows its better
hey mate could you confirm if youre still using the standard m52 cam trays with the m54 intake cam? I heard it needs some modification to fit. Mine seems to fit fine just with the shortened vanos gear, but I'm worried as all the forums say the trays need to be grinded down.
"I'll just grab my nutssss!" you'll love that lower temp stat, it's what I run in mine, remember I have heating and a quarter temp water in less than 5 mins so ideal for cold weather when you're freezing and it's all steamed up! I might even have a 78 degree one, but I know it was lower and it's mint! Also have that billet stat housing too or one similar to yours.
Hey mate! I have a m50b25tu aswell and I instal this setup yesterday! I read from pazi88 that u have to machine the sprocket mounting surface down by 2mm for the M52's. Is that same for M50's?
Hello. There's the M54b30 suction eccentrical and the valve-free suction eccentr. How should I wear these eccentrics? Is it right to set it up with the classic timing apparatus. I apologize for the inadequate English
@Pamo Hello, I have seen your video and I really liked how you work. I have 2 doubts to see if you can solve them for me, 1st, what do you mean by the letters TDC? and 2nd, is the opening on the valve 0.1mm, which is 1 tenth or 1mm? I read comments and did not understand it very well. I am from Spain and I am doing it on a m50b25 nv engine the stroker, is this setting of valve opening also valid for m50b25 nv? Thank you
TDC = Top Dead Centre 0.1mm is 1 tenth of a millimeter The valve opening will work but there is quite a large range which you can use that affects how the torque curve responds. There are now a few guys making 3d printed timing blocks that make this process much much easier - run a Google search and you should find them. Good luck.
@@ManSeeksCivic I imagine the TDC to be from the valve? The valve is in tdc, is that where you have to give it 0.1mm to stay open? Is there no problem of any kind in the operation of the engine with respect to touching the piston heads? Thank you very much, I was really going crazy because not many people do this. Thanks
Top Dead Centre refers to the piston being at its maximum height in the cylinder for a particular cycle. You use this point to check the opening because its a set point which is easy to confirm in the engine cycle. No you will not touch valves with this lift, these engines are capable of much higher lift than these cams cam provide.
@@ManSeeksCivic I understood it, in the TDC with the piston at the top, which is the setting mark of the crankshaft pulley with the cover. I give 0.1mm of opening to the valve, is that so? thanks friend
Another video is being edited as I speak and should be out on Friday evening. We were hoping for today but my filming is a nightmare and my excellent editor has to work her magic 😂
Excellent cant wait. I have just purchased an m54 engine to do a similar build so have been following your videos. I am using an m52 block like you originally planned on using but the threads stripped on yours, did you ever work out why that happened? The arp head studs you used, was they specific to m52 ally block? From your videos I didnt see you buying a new set of arp headstuds when you swapped to the m50 block. The m52 arp specific head studs are 15mm longer than the m50. Not sure if that would have made a difference to stripping the threads?
@@GaragE36uk I used stock head bolts... Not studs. I'm fairly sure the threads stripping was down to the overheat I'd had previously. I believe this softens the alloy and leads to the issues. A virgin ally block should be fine.
Hi. I know this video is old but I have one question. I build turbo M50 with two intake cams. How mush lift to set on 6th cylinder ot TDC to have perfect setting for turbo engine. I know overlap is not good....
Because I've not built a turbo I wouldn't be sure. I'd assume the stock setting would work... But to give an optimal setting would need someone with more experience than me.
Hey Peter, I have also a M50 double intake cam set up. do you get Infos about houw much lift on TDC? My Setup bring me high Exhaust Gas Temperatures at high RPM. So i have to change it. Maybe you get a good Setup for me??
which cam setup is this, i have m54b30 and m50b25nv cams and trays. about ready to put the cams in and time the motor. it looks like in your video that you can't use the timing blocks. is this true?
You use the timing block for the M54 cam, it sits normally as an intake cam. The m50b25nv intake cam is used as an exhaust cam which means that it sits about 60 degrees off its normal angle to allow it to work. There are now 3d printed timing blocks available which make this job much easier.
Hey Pamo, not shure if you were aware, that Pazi set the opening to 0,1 mm by accident. He was trying to go to 1mm open at TDC for the correct overlap. Its clarified in the comments of his video ua-cam.com/video/ZjKEzgb6lfo/v-deo.html I am too in the process of doing the same as you (M52 stoker) i also have the M50 cam for exhaust side but the S52 instead of M54 for intake. My Block is Aluminium but i have inserts in it :) Are you also on MS41/Romraider? Best of luck for the rest of assembly!
Well spotted. There have been a few before me who have done this setup. I started with 0.1mm as per the pazi videos and have since gone to 0.5mm. I may try 1mm also to see how it moves the power band. 👍
@@ManSeeksCivic I have same engine setup with 11.5cr, but i dont remember how i set my exhaust cam, i think 0.5mm. Only after i finished engine and drive half year i read this www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=58&t=13968&start=75
MORE exciting videos to come?? I don’t know about everyone else, but I’ve been ecstatic watching these last couple vids and seeing all of your progress. Keep it up, man! We’re all rooting for you
haha told you this earlier Pamo didn't I ;) keep giving the people what they want bro!
The cleanliness of that block gave me a semi
TD mark at the front pulley in my m52 was almost a degree off. I measured with dial indicator directly from piston.
Thanks for another great video.So exciting seeing it coming together ...I was so pleased to see you fit the vanos without any special tools. Cheers
You are killing it, good pointing out pazi88s work. I've been thinking my car based on his videos for a good while now.
Excellent work!
Thank you and I'll send a public thank you to the scandanavian legend himself - without Pazi's videos I wouldn't have got half the way through this.
Loving this build man I can't wait to see the finished result. I'd love to do something like this to mine but I don't have deep enough pockets or the ball's to do it! I'm pretty sure I'd end up with a junk engine halfway through lol
It's like having babies man.... There's never a "right" time and you wonder why the hell you did it constantly after the fact 😂
Pamo Yeah I hear that lol
haha @2:44 it looks like an owl or summit lol. LOVE how edibly clean it all looks super silver and nioce! I also like how it doubles as a functioning perfectly sized phone holder haha me and salmon would do something like that!
Do you think the nv intake cam is a bit too much for the b30 intake cam for na would not need bigger intake for to match the nv cam haven't seen much were it shows its better
Heeeeey buddy...
You woulding by any chance have a link for the Guy on UA-cam, that you got you info from to make this happen??😅
Pazi88
Hello I need help timing my m50b30 stroker, do you know where can I get the 3d printed tool that you name in some comments? Thank you!
They are now sold on ebay.
@@ManSeeksCiviclink?
hey mate could you confirm if youre still using the standard m52 cam trays with the m54 intake cam? I heard it needs some modification to fit. Mine seems to fit fine just with the shortened vanos gear, but I'm worried as all the forums say the trays need to be grinded down.
"I'll just grab my nutssss!" you'll love that lower temp stat, it's what I run in mine, remember I have heating and a quarter temp water in less than 5 mins so ideal for cold weather when you're freezing and it's all steamed up! I might even have a 78 degree one, but I know it was lower and it's mint! Also have that billet stat housing too or one similar to yours.
doing well buddy!
Thanks.
Hey mate! I have a m50b25tu aswell and I instal this setup yesterday! I read from pazi88 that u have to machine the sprocket mounting surface down by 2mm for the M52's. Is that same for M50's?
Yes. The heads are almost exactly the same.
Hello what is the timing for m50nv intake cam as exhaust? Thanks in advance im building m52b30 stroker
Hello. There's the M54b30 suction eccentrical and the valve-free suction eccentr. How should I wear these eccentrics? Is it right to set it up with the classic timing apparatus. I apologize for the inadequate English
Is the stroker need tuning or stock Map?
@Pamo Hello, I have seen your video and I really liked how you work. I have 2 doubts to see if you can solve them for me, 1st, what do you mean by the letters TDC? and 2nd, is the opening on the valve 0.1mm, which is 1 tenth or 1mm? I read comments and did not understand it very well. I am from Spain and I am doing it on a m50b25 nv engine the stroker, is this setting of valve opening also valid for m50b25 nv? Thank you
TDC = Top Dead Centre
0.1mm is 1 tenth of a millimeter
The valve opening will work but there is quite a large range which you can use that affects how the torque curve responds. There are now a few guys making 3d printed timing blocks that make this process much much easier - run a Google search and you should find them.
Good luck.
@@ManSeeksCivic I imagine the TDC to be from the valve? The valve is in tdc, is that where you have to give it 0.1mm to stay open? Is there no problem of any kind in the operation of the engine with respect to touching the piston heads? Thank you very much, I was really going crazy because not many people do this. Thanks
Top Dead Centre refers to the piston being at its maximum height in the cylinder for a particular cycle. You use this point to check the opening because its a set point which is easy to confirm in the engine cycle.
No you will not touch valves with this lift, these engines are capable of much higher lift than these cams cam provide.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_centre_(engineering)
Check here for a better explanation than I can provide
@@ManSeeksCivic I understood it, in the TDC with the piston at the top, which is the setting mark of the crankshaft pulley with the cover. I give 0.1mm of opening to the valve, is that so? thanks friend
World's tyniest hammer for vanos cover
Any idea what power figures this is making?
Not yet.......
Hi Mate, Any more progress on this?
Another video is being edited as I speak and should be out on Friday evening. We were hoping for today but my filming is a nightmare and my excellent editor has to work her magic 😂
Excellent cant wait. I have just purchased an m54 engine to do a similar build so have been following your videos. I am using an m52 block like you originally planned on using but the threads stripped on yours, did you ever work out why that happened? The arp head studs you used, was they specific to m52 ally block? From your videos I didnt see you buying a new set of arp headstuds when you swapped to the m50 block. The m52 arp specific head studs are 15mm longer than the m50. Not sure if that would have made a difference to stripping the threads?
@@GaragE36uk I used stock head bolts... Not studs. I'm fairly sure the threads stripping was down to the overheat I'd had previously. I believe this softens the alloy and leads to the issues. A virgin ally block should be fine.
@@ManSeeksCivic ah for some reason I thought you used arp. That's my theory out the window ha ha
Thanks again, look forward to the next installment
Hi. I know this video is old but I have one question. I build turbo M50 with two intake cams. How mush lift to set on 6th cylinder ot TDC to have perfect setting for turbo engine. I know overlap is not good....
Because I've not built a turbo I wouldn't be sure. I'd assume the stock setting would work... But to give an optimal setting would need someone with more experience than me.
Good luck with the build.
Hey Peter, I have also a M50 double intake cam set up. do you get Infos about houw much lift on TDC? My Setup bring me high Exhaust Gas Temperatures at high RPM. So i have to change it. Maybe you get a good Setup for me??
Thats a clean looking m50 bottom end with the bmw logo and everything, whats your secret lol
More luck than judgement I reckon
Hi there, will m54b30 Intake camshaft fit onto m50b25 non vanos
Should do, you'll have to check cam tray clearance or use the m52 tray.
Hello, Pamo. What is the point of clocking the exhaust cam 62° forward?
It's actually an intake cam being used as an exhaust cam. This is me setting the correct timing to make that work properly.
@@ManSeeksCivic I know it's m50b25 NV intake cam but i didn't knew it has different position, thanks.
which cam setup is this, i have m54b30 and m50b25nv cams and trays. about ready to put the cams in and time the motor. it looks like in your video that you can't use the timing blocks. is this true?
You use the timing block for the M54 cam, it sits normally as an intake cam. The m50b25nv intake cam is used as an exhaust cam which means that it sits about 60 degrees off its normal angle to allow it to work. There are now 3d printed timing blocks available which make this job much easier.
@@ManSeeksCivic the m54 cam is the exhaust one correct?
No, the M54 cam is the intake.
Hi
I have vibration at 2200 to 3500 rpm after upgrading the engine from 2500 cc to 3000 cc
please help
Thank you for your kindness
Head gasket original na 1.7mm
Becoming pro! ;)
08:02
Bmw e36 love king car .no dead bmw e36.
Hello intake how much 0.00m?
Exhaust 1.mm
0. Use the standard timing setup for the intake cam. Again, this can be adjusted slightly to raise the toque curve, but begin with 0
Hey Pamo, not shure if you were aware, that Pazi set the opening to 0,1 mm by accident. He was trying to go to 1mm open at TDC for the correct overlap. Its clarified in the comments of his video ua-cam.com/video/ZjKEzgb6lfo/v-deo.html
I am too in the process of doing the same as you (M52 stoker) i also have the M50 cam for exhaust side but the S52 instead of M54 for intake. My Block is Aluminium but i have inserts in it :)
Are you also on MS41/Romraider?
Best of luck for the rest of assembly!
Exhaust camshaft position false... The corner should face up a little higher
Hello 0.9
.06 ?
Around 1mm open at tdc.
@@ManSeeksCivic what 1mm?
0.6mm no
It's preference. You really need to start with 1mm then log the cars torque curve. Adjust until you're happy with your setup.
@@ManSeeksCivic 1mm okey
Camshaft m50b25 no vanos yes 240 9.7
You exhaust cam timing is wrong, it shoud be 1mm lift, not 0.1mm.
Well spotted. There have been a few before me who have done this setup. I started with 0.1mm as per the pazi videos and have since gone to 0.5mm. I may try 1mm also to see how it moves the power band. 👍
@@ManSeeksCivic I have same engine setup with 11.5cr, but i dont remember how i set my exhaust cam, i think 0.5mm. Only after i finished engine and drive half year i read this www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=58&t=13968&start=75