Sorry for the confusion, the balance connector is the wide one with a ton of tiny wires. It also carries 4 temperature sensor wires too. It is shown here with all red wires but on a stock future motion battery the balance connector will have a bunch of different colored wires. Hope this helps!
Bro tbh make more videos about anything onewheel-related please. I love your style of editing and humor, everytime I come back to this vid of yours it just gets me smiling. Cheers for your vids bro.
I certainly will, its becoming harder to do that with the weather and time shift. But I have part 3 in the works and other videos pretty far in the pipeline. Hopefully, the slow upload is not too egregious (I know it is)
Great video!!! I have all of the FM board and my pint is lacking but I like it still. This is a big consideration for me, thank you for the detailed video!
If the BMS bypass make its so the BMS no longer has the ability to cut off power when riding the onewheel. How do you prevent the battery from getting to low? How do you prevent it from charging too much? Is the BMS still regulating all these crucial battery things but no longer can take action if something the battery doesn't like is happening?
We need to protect this man at all costs! I'm more prepared to VESC an XR since I already have a lil focer and case. However, since I have extra rails I might as well get a superflux hub and go all out. I just acquired a used PintX with only 17 miles on it for $750. I have since put 13 on it then had some front footpad "orange flashy light" issues. After reconnecting it a few times, it's working enough I'm willing to put a Kush/Enduro/Sure Start on it... Unless the Sure Start (Pro) isn't compatible/necessary with VESC?
In a later video I will go over how to specify the current limitations of the VESC. In general we specify the maximum peak current draw as the highest allowed. Overall yes, you could say it puts more strain on the battery. But I wouldn't call it out of spec scenarios. On pints Vsag is always an issue, here it is also an issue in the same way at lower than 50%. I wouldn't say it 'claps' the battery though.
The balance connector is the one with the many thin wires going into it. It actually also has some temperature sensors in there as well. The balance function requires that the BMS can measure each cells voltage independently thats why it has so many wires.
It would allow you to run it without a BMS but I don't recommend doing that unless you are familiar with how packs like this need to be balanced in order to be safe. That being said I have seen a lot of FM packs have really good cell matching so if you want to be daring you can totally do it. I would just avoid ever charging it overnight.. And look towards getting an aftermarket BMS like an Xlite or the upcoming Zbms/PickleBms
Has anyone come out with a mod for an audible pushback alarm? That's the main thing I wish my onewheel had (and might have prevented me from breaking my collarbone lol)
The Rescue project has this function. It's been slow in development, there's also metr.app which I think does the same thing. If you have float control on ios I belive there's audible pushback alarms there. But that's assuming your Bluetooth is rock solid on iPhone.
Could you provide a diagram that shows the specific placement of the hall sensors and motor phase wires? I’m having issues with the controller not detecting hall sensors in the VESC app, and it is jittery when I attempt to run the motor. I think the hall sensors might be in the wrong spots in my connector. I don’t think it’s the motor having problems. It never had issues before attempting this. If anyone has any suggestions as to what the problem might be, any advice is appreciated!
Hey im curios where did you gain all of the knowledge about what everything is what to do how to sauter etc. i have always wanted that kind of skill set but dont know where to start
I'll make a video on soldering at some point. But in short, a lot of it was expirementing. You want to think of it as 'wicking' like how a wax candle wick soaks up the wax. The wax is only going to wick up the wick when it's warm and likewise the wire will only accept solder when it's hot, flux also assists in making sure the bonding surfaces are clean and aren't oxidizing. Also do use a fume extractor or something to avoid breathing stuff.
In the interest of preserving the controller I sought to make a printed one. But you totally can so long as you've either got the destructive means or soldering prowess. It can be a challenge depending on how you do it. But I wanted to promote an "additive" and less ewaste take on the connector issue.
Something about how the bms is designed. If I were to guess it's because the balance connector doesn't power the bms only the main power connector does. So when you connect the balance first maybe it starts trying to balance all the cells at the same time causing an overheat of the bms. I was also told it is dependent on duration so I think a heat problem is plausible.
@@TheWillDConstruct hmm yeah makes sense thx. i was asking cuz i accidentally plugged in the balance connector first thrn the main plug and i saw that the board was fine and everything and it scared the shit out of me when i realised, i thought i broke something already and i hadent found out lol so i was not comfortable with riding the board until i asked some people in the discord first and they said it was fine too lol
@@yuding237 From what I heard its definitely a by chance and duration based failure mode. So many people who had it not happen (like me) were probably within the time window where it actually starts to be a problem. I just felt it was important to correct it on my end.
At the time of making the series and original board the 100v was just coming out and we weren't confident in its reliability. So I just made the tutor with the 75v as a recommendation. But you are totally fine going with the 100v though I would consider the sizing constraints on that controller. The Ubox 75 is short enough to fit inside the box without modification to the controller housing. For the 100v you need to take the housing off which exposes it to the inside of the box. Just be careful about how you go about that. I like how the 100v mini looks for sizing maybe you could look into that one.
@@Jameslangford-rc6sw Absolutely. VESC does not supply free energy. But you can tune it to get the same range as the pint, you will just have less apparent power.
This is a huge rescource. Im trying to vesc my gt after the controller went out after warrenty. I havent even found anything to show me where to start until this. Thanks man- also though- Is this pretty well the same procedure for vescing the GT? Can i just bypass the BMS as you did here on this pint or do I need to buy some type of new bms?
I believe you can do this. But I would check with other people because I haven't tested it. I also remember all the battery fiasco surrounding the GT and the bms bricking issue. But I'm not sure if it was a functional brick or just the serialization handshake breaking when you unplugged the battery.
I would opt for the Ubox 80V as it still fits in the pint enclosure and is a newer revision with higher voltage rating. You dont see much benefit using the 200A version as the hypercore saturates around 120 amps and the pint battery wont be pushing that kind of wattage. I dont have a flip frame for the 80v but others have created mounting solutions for the 80v.
@@awejeez4319 That is a good option I believe it will fit in the box without any modifications. And yeah the 75v100a is picked purely for size, but these days newer models are preferred.
Yes to an extent. For the xr your controller fitment can be an issue with the stock enclosure. There are 3d printed solutions for this I will cover in the future.
I addressed my incorrect BMS plug order because someone mentioned that they fried one. Not because of me, but I wanted to avoid causing others to accidentally kill a BMS.
Its this giant 40lbs lithium pack made of recycled cells. It would give a pack builder anxiety and it gives my shoulders soreness. It keeps my pint going for about 32 miles though so thats a plus. It is in the plans to create a V2 with new cells and high capacity. So stay tuned for whenever I end up making that.
@@HevAdams Its a GX12-2 I printed a custom housing around and tried to armor up some wires that lead to an XT30. Its not the best solution because its still exposed to damage from the sides. I have a better solution for CNR taps I can showcase later.
It's totally fine if that's your takeaway. I'll say though that since I made these videos the ease of performing this mod has become massively easier. I'll be going over how it has changed in the future but I would strongly recommend that you seek more up to date information.
8:51 this would be a great tip if I knew which one's the balance
Sorry for the confusion, the balance connector is the wide one with a ton of tiny wires. It also carries 4 temperature sensor wires too. It is shown here with all red wires but on a stock future motion battery the balance connector will have a bunch of different colored wires. Hope this helps!
@@TheWillDConstruct thanks for clarifying!
Your channel is wildly underrated. Great video man keep it up!
I got my PX done today. Thanks so much for all the help through these videos
Bro tbh make more videos about anything onewheel-related please. I love your style of editing and humor, everytime I come back to this vid of yours it just gets me smiling. Cheers for your vids bro.
I certainly will, its becoming harder to do that with the weather and time shift. But I have part 3 in the works and other videos pretty far in the pipeline. Hopefully, the slow upload is not too egregious (I know it is)
@TheWillDConstruct I'm sure you'll do it in your own time, with life and all. Looking forward to your next vids man 👌
You deserve so much more for this video! Keep up the great content. I will definitely use this guide in the future.
also man, the first 4:53 are not a waste of time. The right to repair is an amazing conversation.
The little battery nut will causes a crash on stock Onewheel eventually. It got me
Thanks for such great diy video! now the single ubox 75v is back in stock!!!
Great video!!! I have all of the FM board and my pint is lacking but I like it still. This is a big consideration for me, thank you for the detailed video!
The battery bypass only needs the negative terminal jumped? Not the +?
Correct, the positive is already a straight connection in the BMS. Only the negative side is disconnected when the BMS stops discharge.
Killer video all around 👏
If the BMS bypass make its so the BMS no longer has the ability to cut off power when riding the onewheel. How do you prevent the battery from getting to low? How do you prevent it from charging too much? Is the BMS still regulating all these crucial battery things but no longer can take action if something the battery doesn't like is happening?
The VESC has voltage cutoffs you will specify in part 3 that will take care of overdischarge and regen hitting these thresholds.
We need to protect this man at all costs! I'm more prepared to VESC an XR since I already have a lil focer and case. However, since I have extra rails I might as well get a superflux hub and go all out. I just acquired a used PintX with only 17 miles on it for $750. I have since put 13 on it then had some front footpad "orange flashy light" issues. After reconnecting it a few times, it's working enough I'm willing to put a Kush/Enduro/Sure Start on it... Unless the Sure Start (Pro) isn't compatible/necessary with VESC?
There is no need for surestart on VESC. It is a feature you can enable in the app.
ima do this, but does it clap your battery?
In a later video I will go over how to specify the current limitations of the VESC. In general we specify the maximum peak current draw as the highest allowed. Overall yes, you could say it puts more strain on the battery. But I wouldn't call it out of spec scenarios. On pints Vsag is always an issue, here it is also an issue in the same way at lower than 50%. I wouldn't say it 'claps' the battery though.
@@TheWillDConstruct appreciate it.
Might seem like a dumb question, but which one is the balance connector?
The balance connector is the one with the many thin wires going into it. It actually also has some temperature sensors in there as well. The balance function requires that the BMS can measure each cells voltage independently thats why it has so many wires.
18:00 motor wiring diagram
The bms on my pint x has decided to die would this be a good option to get back up and going
It would allow you to run it without a BMS but I don't recommend doing that unless you are familiar with how packs like this need to be balanced in order to be safe. That being said I have seen a lot of FM packs have really good cell matching so if you want to be daring you can totally do it. I would just avoid ever charging it overnight.. And look towards getting an aftermarket BMS like an Xlite or the upcoming Zbms/PickleBms
Has anyone come out with a mod for an audible pushback alarm? That's the main thing I wish my onewheel had (and might have prevented me from breaking my collarbone lol)
The Rescue project has this function. It's been slow in development, there's also metr.app which I think does the same thing. If you have float control on ios I belive there's audible pushback alarms there. But that's assuming your Bluetooth is rock solid on iPhone.
Does it work on pint x
Yes
Could you provide a diagram that shows the specific placement of the hall sensors and motor phase wires? I’m having issues with the controller not detecting hall sensors in the VESC app, and it is jittery when I attempt to run the motor. I think the hall sensors might be in the wrong spots in my connector. I don’t think it’s the motor having problems. It never had issues before attempting this. If anyone has any suggestions as to what the problem might be, any advice is appreciated!
Please join that discord link, we can help you through it! discord.gg/Q4q7YRa3xh
Hey im curios where did you gain all of the knowledge about what everything is what to do how to sauter etc. i have always wanted that kind of skill set but dont know where to start
I'll make a video on soldering at some point. But in short, a lot of it was expirementing. You want to think of it as 'wicking' like how a wax candle wick soaks up the wax. The wax is only going to wick up the wick when it's warm and likewise the wire will only accept solder when it's hot, flux also assists in making sure the bonding surfaces are clean and aren't oxidizing. Also do use a fume extractor or something to avoid breathing stuff.
Incredible video-is there a reason you cant salvage the original FM motor connector from the Pint controller instead of making the printed one?
I was wondering the same thing 🤔
In the interest of preserving the controller I sought to make a printed one. But you totally can so long as you've either got the destructive means or soldering prowess. It can be a challenge depending on how you do it. But I wanted to promote an "additive" and less ewaste take on the connector issue.
Whats the reasoning behind the balance plug and main plug order?
Something about how the bms is designed. If I were to guess it's because the balance connector doesn't power the bms only the main power connector does. So when you connect the balance first maybe it starts trying to balance all the cells at the same time causing an overheat of the bms. I was also told it is dependent on duration so I think a heat problem is plausible.
@@TheWillDConstruct hmm yeah makes sense thx. i was asking cuz i accidentally plugged in the balance connector first thrn the main plug and i saw that the board was fine and everything and it scared the shit out of me when i realised, i thought i broke something already and i hadent found out lol so i was not comfortable with riding the board until i asked some people in the discord first and they said it was fine too lol
@@yuding237 From what I heard its definitely a by chance and duration based failure mode. So many people who had it not happen (like me) were probably within the time window where it actually starts to be a problem. I just felt it was important to correct it on my end.
ITS HERE!
The same thing! Only different!
Any specific reason you’re using a ubox 75?
I see most people using the 100
At the time of making the series and original board the 100v was just coming out and we weren't confident in its reliability. So I just made the tutor with the 75v as a recommendation. But you are totally fine going with the 100v though I would consider the sizing constraints on that controller. The Ubox 75 is short enough to fit inside the box without modification to the controller housing. For the 100v you need to take the housing off which exposes it to the inside of the box. Just be careful about how you go about that. I like how the 100v mini looks for sizing maybe you could look into that one.
So can you use a stock og pint battery?
Yes
@@TheWillDConstruct But its prolly gonna get eaten up a lot faster
@@Jameslangford-rc6sw Absolutely. VESC does not supply free energy. But you can tune it to get the same range as the pint, you will just have less apparent power.
@@TheWillDConstruct Yea
This is a huge rescource. Im trying to vesc my gt after the controller went out after warrenty. I havent even found anything to show me where to start until this. Thanks man- also though- Is this pretty well the same procedure for vescing the GT? Can i just bypass the BMS as you did here on this pint or do I need to buy some type of new bms?
I believe you can do this. But I would check with other people because I haven't tested it. I also remember all the battery fiasco surrounding the GT and the bms bricking issue. But I'm not sure if it was a functional brick or just the serialization handshake breaking when you unplugged the battery.
Will this work using the Ubox Single V2 75v 200A VESC? I dont see the V1 in stock any more.
I would opt for the Ubox 80V as it still fits in the pint enclosure and is a newer revision with higher voltage rating. You dont see much benefit using the 200A version as the hypercore saturates around 120 amps and the pint battery wont be pushing that kind of wattage. I dont have a flip frame for the 80v but others have created mounting solutions for the 80v.
@@TheWillDConstructyou warn to use 75v100a is that solely due to size? I'm looking at the lite 100v/100a
@@awejeez4319 That is a good option I believe it will fit in the box without any modifications. And yeah the 75v100a is picked purely for size, but these days newer models are preferred.
This is so good, thanks for making the video!
Also will there be a third?
Yeah I'm making a third, life got in my way for a while but I'm working on it
@@TheWillDConstruct I get it, I’m on a very long term project as well lol
I have a dead xr. Thinking about install the u box100 can i follow this video for an XR ?
Yes to an extent. For the xr your controller fitment can be an issue with the stock enclosure. There are 3d printed solutions for this I will cover in the future.
Critical issue?
I addressed my incorrect BMS plug order because someone mentioned that they fried one. Not because of me, but I wanted to avoid causing others to accidentally kill a BMS.
@@TheWillDConstruct thanks for making sure youve got shit dialed in. We all appreciate it!
@@TheWillDConstruct timestamp?
@@huff_designs 8:52
Well done. 👏👏👏
In theory this should also work with a GT correct? Or has it already been proven to work?
Anything with a battery and a motor can be vesced. Exemption being the V1, that's a bit tricky and not very strong.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to create this. What does your charge and ride setup consist of?
Its this giant 40lbs lithium pack made of recycled cells. It would give a pack builder anxiety and it gives my shoulders soreness. It keeps my pint going for about 32 miles though so thats a plus. It is in the plans to create a V2 with new cells and high capacity. So stay tuned for whenever I end up making that.
@@TheWillDConstruct Great thanks, what cable do you use to plug it in? Looks like a right angle connector to the charge port
@@HevAdams Its a GX12-2 I printed a custom housing around and tried to armor up some wires that lead to an XT30. Its not the best solution because its still exposed to damage from the sides. I have a better solution for CNR taps I can showcase later.
@@TheWillDConstruct I'll look forward to that, thanks for sharing
Hey man, quick question. If im using a 20s1p battery config should i be getting the 100v instead?
Yes
does this work with a stock battery?
Yes
Awesome guide!
Is there any major benefit to getting the Ubox with a bluetooth module vs without?
You get bluetooth functionality, without it you can't connect with your phone and view/change things while you are out. It is mandatory.
I like my stock gt better then my cbxr 😅
How does the 4k look!? :D
Part 2 launching today...
better than irl
Bruh the vesc pint vint pinvt pumvnt 😂😂
This makes me not want to vesc my onewheel or I'd just pay someone to do jt
slo dino
It's totally fine if that's your takeaway. I'll say though that since I made these videos the ease of performing this mod has become massively easier. I'll be going over how it has changed in the future but I would strongly recommend that you seek more up to date information.
I go 25mph on my OG pint no mods😂
and I'm sure it screams pisses and sends your nose to high heavens while doing so. :)
Anyone want to sell me a good used pint controller?
You can ask in vescify discord
Pumpvt
Pompfvt