Forgot to mention that a thin piece of CORK tile (3/16 inch or 4.78 mm thick) works extremely well as an insulator to aid in heating the bed. I have attached a piece under the bed to minimize heat loss and I use a piece on the build surface during initial heating of the bed when temperatures need to be much over 70 C. The poor little 20a supply that comes with the Anet A8 just is too weak for sustained high bed temps required for PETG and ABS. Another option is to get a dedicated power supply to supply 24V to the bed and to the Nozzle. The higher voltage will allow the bed and the Nozzle to heat up much faster and be more stable (Next future upgrade for my printers). Something for you to think about.
@@Crosslink3D I'm thinking I'll keep the original 12V supply that came with the machine to power the mainboard only and then run a separate dedicated 24V supply for the bed and extruder(s). Seems a bit of an "OVER-KILL", but I think the board will be much happier and the heating time for the bed and the nozzle will be much reduced.
This is the power supply I'm looking to purchase: www.amazon.com/Switching-%EF%BC%88SMPS%EF%BC%89110VAC-DC24V-Monitoring-Industrial-Transformer/dp/B0782L9YJB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=24v%2B1000W%2Bswitching%2Bpower%2Bsupply&qid=1551802115&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1
@@Crosslink3D Originally, my plan was to keep the 12V supply and then use two BUCK converters (one for the nozzle and one for the bed) to bump the voltage to 24V. Unfortunately, the bed draws so much current that the buck converter to drive it was prohibitively expensive.
So, I'm testing out your Cura profile. I compared it to the profile I'm using. Seems your hot end temp is about 10c lower than what I use and your bed temp is about 15c higher than what I use. Now, it also has to be said that every machine is different. They all have their own idiosyncrasies due to variations in thermistor hysteresis. For grins and giggles, I'm printing the test part you recommended using your cura profile and Hatchbox PETG. Turns out I need to adjust my first layer height a bit further away. I'm thinking 0.2 mm is probably optimum. I've been using 0.15. I'm curious to see how the part turns out given the temp differences and the fact that you turn the fan on (I never use the fan printing PETG).
I've been using PETG (Hatchbox) (I'm waiting on my shipment of Amazon Basics) now for several years and have developed techniques for printing on glass as well as on to a removable aluminum printing surface. Of the two, I much prefer to print to my removable aluminum print plate (1.58 mm Alu. 6061T6). In addition, I do NOT use build tape anymore. I got away from Blue Tape a month after getting my first A8. I find that Elmers Glue Stic in Purple or white works extremely well and is easier to use than Blue Tape (UHU would work as well I'm sure). For print removal - wait for it - FREEZER! I toss my build plate, glass or Alu., into the freezer for about 20 min and let thermodynamics work for me - prints pop right off! Give it try, works every time!
It's a month old reply post but I give it a try. As a successful PETG printer, could you share your trick for printing small models. I have tried all the tricks in the book and I am following all the suggestions but I get the infamous buildup on the nozzle and the details start melting away. And yes, I lowered the nozzle temperature gradually to the point of clogging it. That said, I have been printing larger items quite acceptable
@@overlycranked8674 Well, the trick isn't really a trick at all to printing in PETG. I started with a PLA slicer profile straight out of CURA for all the basic settings. Then they only thing I really modify are the retraction settings and cooling. Right now, I've my retraction set at 6mm and a retraction speed of 70mm/s. I set my cooling to 50% after the first layer. Also, I print at 245c and a bet temp of 70c on to glass with a bit of Elmer's purple glue stick. On thing to check on your printer is the extrusion rate. If you are over or under extruding that can cause a real headache. In my case, I have brand new ENDER 3 that is chronically under extruding my PETG. I'm in the process of recalibrating that. I hope this helps.
Honestly I've been worried about printing anything hotter than PLA on the stock electronics. Can someone tell me I'm just paranoid, or SHOULD I wait until I do the mosfet and PSU upgrade to avoid a fire?
I've been trying out the Amazonbasics petg as well. So far I like it although I need to figure out my bed adhesion settings better. I think I might be printing too close so I'll need to increase my Z offset or something. I am using manual mesh bed level with Marlin 1.1.9 as you showed in a recent video and I think you can set a Z offset in the bed leveling menu?
Yes, you can set the leveling a bit higher in the control menu. Start with 0.1 higher and work from there. The material needs a bit more distance to settle without creating skimming.
You can try but increasing the first layer height in the slicer will also increase the flow accordingly. So it might then be again too much filament coming out and creating skimming. Increasing z offset does not increase flow.
@@Crosslink3D That makes sense, thanks! I finally got Pi and OctoPrint, so switching the value is now actually easy. I was just lazy to always go to the menu and change it when I changed material or bed (I have bare mirror, mirror with PEI and with painters tape that I randomly switch, each requires slightly different Z offest :D). Adjusting the layer height somewhat worked, but now I understand why not always!
Hello, I need help! i'm printing mask for coronavirus and someone donated PETG. Print this plastic its dificult to me, i use bed 85, Ext 240, 0.3 layer heigth, 55mm/s and 3 walls, when the nozle its filling the middle wall the extruder is missing steps, like when comes stuck. Any solution?
Thank you for the content. I am a new AnetA8 owner and really enjoy your channel. I was printing great with PLA. Having issues with PETG. Question: Your experience was PETG inherently producing more rough prints than PLA? I cant seem to get quite the resolution I was getting with PLA.
This is a import video! In Australia 🇦🇺 most products are made from PETG.. we recycle. Public incentive Include 10c bottles if you take them to a machine & get a refund. There is no incentive to recycle ♻️ PETG household wast at home & I was thinking 3d printing might change this in the future. Might you explore this in the future on this channel?
first i wanted to start printing with ABS, after i learned some stuff with PLA, but when i learned about just how toxic ABS can be, i changed my mind. and when i saw that PETG can be very hard to print, i lost my hope. but when i saw this video, of THIS printer printing PETG, it shouldnt be as hard as some companies say. right?
Forgot to mention that a thin piece of CORK tile (3/16 inch or 4.78 mm thick) works extremely well as an insulator to aid in heating the bed. I have attached a piece under the bed to minimize heat loss and I use a piece on the build surface during initial heating of the bed when temperatures need to be much over 70 C. The poor little 20a supply that comes with the Anet A8 just is too weak for sustained high bed temps required for PETG and ABS. Another option is to get a dedicated power supply to supply 24V to the bed and to the Nozzle. The higher voltage will allow the bed and the Nozzle to heat up much faster and be more stable (Next future upgrade for my printers). Something for you to think about.
Sounds really great, will put these ideas on my list. Would you step down the 24v for the board or run with two separate psus?
@@Crosslink3D I'm thinking I'll keep the original 12V supply that came with the machine to power the mainboard only and then run a separate dedicated 24V supply for the bed and extruder(s). Seems a bit of an "OVER-KILL", but I think the board will be much happier and the heating time for the bed and the nozzle will be much reduced.
This is the power supply I'm looking to purchase: www.amazon.com/Switching-%EF%BC%88SMPS%EF%BC%89110VAC-DC24V-Monitoring-Industrial-Transformer/dp/B0782L9YJB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=24v%2B1000W%2Bswitching%2Bpower%2Bsupply&qid=1551802115&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1
@@Crosslink3D Originally, my plan was to keep the 12V supply and then use two BUCK converters (one for the nozzle and one for the bed) to bump the voltage to 24V. Unfortunately, the bed draws so much current that the buck converter to drive it was prohibitively expensive.
A 24V to 12V step down converter probably will be easier to handle just the board. Worth a try...
So, I'm testing out your Cura profile. I compared it to the profile I'm using. Seems your hot end temp is about 10c lower than what I use and your bed temp is about 15c higher than what I use. Now, it also has to be said that every machine is different. They all have their own idiosyncrasies due to variations in thermistor hysteresis. For grins and giggles, I'm printing the test part you recommended using your cura profile and Hatchbox PETG. Turns out I need to adjust my first layer height a bit further away. I'm thinking 0.2 mm is probably optimum. I've been using 0.15. I'm curious to see how the part turns out given the temp differences and the fact that you turn the fan on (I never use the fan printing PETG).
I've been using PETG (Hatchbox) (I'm waiting on my shipment of Amazon Basics) now for several years and have developed techniques for printing on glass as well as on to a removable aluminum printing surface. Of the two, I much prefer to print to my removable aluminum print plate (1.58 mm Alu. 6061T6). In addition, I do NOT use build tape anymore. I got away from Blue Tape a month after getting my first A8. I find that Elmers Glue Stic in Purple or white works extremely well and is easier to use than Blue Tape (UHU would work as well I'm sure). For print removal - wait for it - FREEZER! I toss my build plate, glass or Alu., into the freezer for about 20 min and let thermodynamics work for me - prints pop right off! Give it try, works every time!
Cool ideas, thanks for sharing. I will definitely give it a try! 👍
It's a month old reply post but I give it a try. As a successful PETG printer, could you share your trick for printing small models. I have tried all the tricks in the book and I am following all the suggestions but I get the infamous buildup on the nozzle and the details start melting away. And yes, I lowered the nozzle temperature gradually to the point of clogging it. That said, I have been printing larger items quite acceptable
@@overlycranked8674 Well, the trick isn't really a trick at all to printing in PETG. I started with a PLA slicer profile straight out of CURA for all the basic settings. Then they only thing I really modify are the retraction settings and cooling. Right now, I've my retraction set at 6mm and a retraction speed of 70mm/s. I set my cooling to 50% after the first layer. Also, I print at 245c and a bet temp of 70c on to glass with a bit of Elmer's purple glue stick. On thing to check on your printer is the extrusion rate. If you are over or under extruding that can cause a real headache. In my case, I have brand new ENDER 3 that is chronically under extruding my PETG. I'm in the process of recalibrating that. I hope this helps.
@@vn1500g3 , I'll follow your suggestions straightaway ( that 70mm/s retraction speed is interesting ). Thank you for taking the time to reply
HELP!!! Having problems using amazon basics petg getting the supports off cleanly any thoughts would help.
I had this too. Was a bit hard to remove. I guess the material really sticks really well. What are your settings?
Honestly I've been worried about printing anything hotter than PLA on the stock electronics. Can someone tell me I'm just paranoid, or SHOULD I wait until I do the mosfet and PSU upgrade to avoid a fire?
I print on glass with a very light coating of glue stick. The printer parts just call off after the bed has cooled to room temp.
AGAIN nice job. Also over 600 subs
I've been trying out the Amazonbasics petg as well. So far I like it although I need to figure out my bed adhesion settings better. I think I might be printing too close so I'll need to increase my Z offset or something. I am using manual mesh bed level with Marlin 1.1.9 as you showed in a recent video and I think you can set a Z offset in the bed leveling menu?
Yes, you can set the leveling a bit higher in the control menu. Start with 0.1 higher and work from there. The material needs a bit more distance to settle without creating skimming.
@@Crosslink3D Thanks Daniel!
@@Crosslink3D Couldn't the same be achieved through setting the First Layer Height higher in slicer?
You can try but increasing the first layer height in the slicer will also increase the flow accordingly. So it might then be again too much filament coming out and creating skimming. Increasing z offset does not increase flow.
@@Crosslink3D That makes sense, thanks! I finally got Pi and OctoPrint, so switching the value is now actually easy. I was just lazy to always go to the menu and change it when I changed material or bed (I have bare mirror, mirror with PEI and with painters tape that I randomly switch, each requires slightly different Z offest :D). Adjusting the layer height somewhat worked, but now I understand why not always!
Hello, I need help! i'm printing mask for coronavirus and someone donated PETG. Print this plastic its dificult to me, i use bed 85, Ext 240, 0.3 layer heigth, 55mm/s and 3 walls, when the nozle its filling the middle wall the extruder is missing steps, like when comes stuck.
Any solution?
Excellent video, by the way. I appreciate all your hard work. Thank you.
Thanks a lot. From all the comments I've seen so far I think a build surface comparison with different materials could be useful.
Thank you for the content. I am a new AnetA8 owner and really enjoy your channel. I was printing great with PLA. Having issues with PETG. Question: Your experience was PETG inherently producing more rough prints than PLA? I cant seem to get quite the resolution I was getting with PLA.
This is a import video! In Australia 🇦🇺 most products are made from PETG.. we recycle. Public incentive Include 10c bottles if you take them to a machine & get a refund.
There is no incentive to recycle ♻️ PETG household wast at home & I was thinking 3d printing might change this in the future. Might you explore this in the future on this channel?
first i wanted to start printing with ABS, after i learned some stuff with PLA, but when i learned about just how toxic ABS can be, i changed my mind. and when i saw that PETG can be very hard to print, i lost my hope. but when i saw this video, of THIS printer printing PETG, it shouldnt be as hard as some companies say. right?
awesome :)
keep going on Daniel !!:) i love the way you describe all details its easy to understand ! and clear! tres beau travail !!
Thank you, I am humbled ☺️
@@Crosslink3D :)