Brilliant! As a woodturner first I've found it much more efficient leaving pots on the bat for trimming--the best for not having to recenter and the adhesion is great. The closest to chucking material on the lathe you are going to get with a pottery wheel I think. I'll have to try the next step and let the pot release by themselves. My studio has these nice smooth Masonite bats and nobody but me really uses them. Thanks! Outtakes are great. I struggle speaking in front of the camera too!
This is a wonderful testament to the precision of your art BEFORE it comes off the wheel! I'm probably not alone in saying that I spend a lot of time trimming my pieces, both to refine the shape and to create a raised ringed foot.
I am not quite there as you. And I don't have any masonite bats. So I have to wire. As fo the trimming, well I wish I was as proficient as you and not have to spend time trimming. But I'll get there if it's the last thing I do. And at 65, you want to do as much as possible. 😁 Thanks for another great help video. Can you do a video, if you haven't yet, about how to gauge wall and bottom thickness, on a finished thrown piece. Love the outtakes. 🤣🤣🤣
Great video. Q - I have suddenly - and I mean suddenly - gone fom throwing smallish bowls to large bowls and platters. I can't figure out why the breakthrough, but I don't want to question a gifthorse. Anyway, I suddenly have a real problem getting the piece off the bat, so I watched your video. Unfortunately, (a) I use plastic commercial bats (which are nonabsorbant); and (b) I make a foot. It looks as if I cannot use your method. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Pots will release from plastic bats as they dry but if you’re trimming a foot you will need to wire them off. You can wait to wire them off a couple hours after throwing or at least pull a wire under them at that point and cover until the next day.
I let my work self release as well. I have been using tempered masonite, but I just got a deal on a bunch of MEDEX moisture resistant MDF that I have started working with as well. I think the MEDEX should resist warping better because of its thickness and, at least in my area, it is much easier to find than the masonite I like.
Please help me! Do you use 1/8 or 1/4 thickness masonite? 1/8 inch is easy to find, but I think my bat pins will stick up through it and get my hand. The closest thing is 3/16ths. Is the 3/16ths what you have found? Thanks in advance! Mary
Those are 1/4 inch bats. Yes that is hard to find and I bought these bats from someone. I didn’t make them myself. I’m not sure what to use when these wear out bc that 1/4in masonite seems impossible to find.
"Not that this is the perfect way, or the only way to get this done" Welllllll.... The proof is in the pudding, those are some clean and smooth bottoms. I was a naysayer until I saw how smooth the masonite bats were. I was thinking, "Surely not wiring them off would mean more work," but your bats are amazing, and they speak for themselves! My only gripe is if you need to do any further trimming of a piece, but really it's better to just throw tidier pots, am I right? ;)
That’s my opinion... I’m just trying to ease people into the idea bc most people wire and trim and think you have to. I do trim lids and I probably should trim some other things but for now ... nah. Haha
well that it, if you're getting the results you're after then that's great, and really it's only efficient to use only as much clay when throwing as you need ;) Trimming takes time, which could be better spent throwing... Or hanging out with loved ones - so efficient throwing is best
Mat your work is amazing, I too let them dry without wiring, but if I do wire which is rare. I sand them with a belt sander when they are greenware, and sometimes use the sander to get a nice cut design as well. keep the vids coming.... oh did you see the jonthepotter episode where he mentions you as one of the great potters? haymanspottery on etsy...lol had to plug my cups lol sorry
This is a great idea because I do not like cutting pots off the bat because then the bottoms get messed up for me. And thanks for adding in the coffee mug tip because I was wondering about that since you have to put the handles on when they are not as dry.
Hello Matthew I threw a heap of pots and bowls yesterday to try this method out, with altered rims etc, as turning is hard without a chuck. How long does it usually take for the pots to release, mine haven't come away yet (nearly 40hours)?
That all depends on the size of the piece and the weather outside and atmosphere/moisture in your studio. It would be hard to say without seeing them to say if they’re ready to release or not.
@@MatthewKellyPottery thankyou for your reply ... they started releasing after i wrote the comment and for a few hours later for the bigger pieces .. I don't have masonite bats so this was an issue, and one was like MDF board and the wood swelled and stuck to the bottom of the pot haha, but I can turn it still. I will get the masonite eventually but it is a brilliant method for making narrow neck forms and large platters that are hard to turn... cheers from down under mate :)
I’m so glad to hear that some of them released and the others you still salvaged. If your bats are not tempered it definitely could ruin them to leave pots on them if it makes the bats swell.
Appreciate the video. I will try this on larger pieces or plates, for me those can be the biggest challenge to get off bats. I have trashed several during that part of the process. I have been wiring when I throw, wiring again the next morning and covering with plastic. I use plasti bats. Typically I stamp the bottom, but if this works I am fine signing. Get well soon.
I think my bats are a similar material (weathertex- compressed exterior cladding), fingers crossed it will release my pots. Turning is the bane of my existence, and I'm not particularly fond of foot rings. Thank you!
Hi Matthew, Thanks for filming this, it really completes the picture of how you process your pots... You didn't even have to re-grip your bottles when you scrapped the bottoms! For me, when I throw large platters I end up with too much clay at the bottom, so really need to trim those... Haha, just saw your out takes !! Those are funny.
Matt I too use the tempered masonite for the bats that I make. I did a youtube video, but I do both. Some I let dry and some I wire off. I do like the way you sign all your pieces, it has that personal touch. eddiespottery.
Drying speed is important especially for wider forms but that is important even if you wire those large forms off the bat. The wider the piece the slower it needs to dry
Another great video! (Love the bloopers at the end...lol) I just need to be proficient enough to not need to trim the pot now. Right now, I just don't have the experience to throw without leaving too much at the bottom. I'll keep working on it. You sure have a great method going!
I have had a lot of success drying on bats but sometimes with certain clays grog'd 112 standard I get a bunch of lame S cracks and I haven't changed anything really with my process. Since they are on the bats so long in order to pop them off I think it may be due to wall thickness near the bottom of mug which sometimes happens. Do you ever flip them on the rims in order to close the inside and let them dry more w the bat on the top? I understand it has to do with uneven drying or thickness issues but when drying on the bat that is almost part of the process sometimes unless you let it take absolutely forever to get them to pop off. Any tips would be super appreciated. I thought my experience was beyond S cracks but I guess not! It's been a few years on the wheel and perhaps i have been lucky with B-Mix very forgiving clay. TYVM! (I use tempered 1/4" hardboard also about 9.5" just to get the corners on the pins solid.) i made them they look nearly identical to yours. Best decision i ever made going to those bats.
My larger pieces that I need to dry slow I will pull a wire under after a day or two of drying because a slow release from the bat can cause the bottoms to bow/warp. My experience with a cracks is that I’ve seen them mostly from clay ball orientation when thrown on the wheel depending on how it was pugged/wedged.
Matthew, sorry you have a cold, but the bloopers are definitely entertaining! Learning your dry-on-the-bat technique is very useful, and another example of the great efficiency you have developed in your craft - excellent! Thanks for sharing and educating us.
I will incorporate chattering, cutting and trimming the sponge holders while still attached to the bat and see how this works out. (Applying my stamp on the side wall) Should also work well for applying medallions too ..... Then I will patiently wait til' they release from the bats. Trim the foot, number the pot, glaze and fire... Great video as usual and enjoying the bloopers too! Is there tea and honey in that tankard? Thanks for sharing.
The bats are easy to make from white hardboard and cost about $0.50/bat for materials. I could not find true 1/4 inch Masonite so had to shorten the bat pins with a grinder. I still cut my pots off the bat and trim a foot. Not sure it makes that much difference in purchase decision but it makes me feel like they are finished to the best of my abilities.
Great videos, noticed your tall, maybe you might save your back a bit if you had taller tables
Yeah I probably should. Nothing a few bricks can’t help remedy. Haha
Like your explanation on how to dry and come off bat . Love your pottery. Thank you for sharing
No problem with cracks from uneven drying?
Brilliant! As a woodturner first I've found it much more efficient leaving pots on the bat for trimming--the best for not having to recenter and the adhesion is great. The closest to chucking material on the lathe you are going to get with a pottery wheel I think. I'll have to try the next step and let the pot release by themselves. My studio has these nice smooth Masonite bats and nobody but me really uses them. Thanks!
Outtakes are great. I struggle speaking in front of the camera too!
This is a wonderful testament to the precision of your art BEFORE it comes off the wheel!
I'm probably not alone in saying that I spend a lot of time trimming my pieces, both to refine the shape and to create a raised ringed foot.
Perfection! Thanks! I can't wire a pot to save my life! ♥ Or the pot! BTW, Loved the Bloopers!
I am not quite there as you. And I don't have any masonite bats. So I have to wire.
As fo the trimming, well I wish I was as proficient as you and not have to spend time trimming. But I'll get there if it's the last thing I do. And at 65, you want to do as much as possible. 😁
Thanks for another great help video.
Can you do a video, if you haven't yet, about how to gauge wall and bottom thickness, on a finished thrown piece.
Love the outtakes. 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for pushing thru when you didnt feel good. Very helpful video!
my 2021 goal to throw pots well enough to do this!
Great video. Q - I have suddenly - and I mean suddenly - gone fom throwing smallish bowls to large bowls and platters. I can't figure out why the breakthrough, but I don't want to question a gifthorse. Anyway, I suddenly have a real problem getting the piece off the bat, so I watched your video. Unfortunately, (a) I use plastic commercial bats (which are nonabsorbant); and (b) I make a foot. It looks as if I cannot use your method. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Pots will release from plastic bats as they dry but if you’re trimming a foot you will need to wire them off. You can wait to wire them off a couple hours after throwing or at least pull a wire under them at that point and cover until the next day.
Love this idea!
Couldn’t you smooth the scraped-off edges with a damp sponge instead of sanding it after glazing?
I think the reason he sands the pots after firing is so that the entire bottom is smooth so that it won't scratch any surfaces it gets slid across
I let my work self release as well. I have been using tempered masonite, but I just got a deal on a bunch of MEDEX moisture resistant MDF that I have started working with as well. I think the MEDEX should resist warping better because of its thickness and, at least in my area, it is much easier to find than the masonite I like.
Awesome! I’m glad you found something that works!
Please help me! Do you use 1/8 or 1/4 thickness masonite? 1/8 inch is easy to find, but I think my bat pins will stick up through it and get my hand. The closest thing is 3/16ths. Is the 3/16ths what you have found? Thanks in advance!
Mary
Those are 1/4 inch bats. Yes that is hard to find and I bought these bats from someone. I didn’t make them myself. I’m not sure what to use when these wear out bc that 1/4in masonite seems impossible to find.
"Not that this is the perfect way, or the only way to get this done" Welllllll.... The proof is in the pudding, those are some clean and smooth bottoms.
I was a naysayer until I saw how smooth the masonite bats were. I was thinking, "Surely not wiring them off would mean more work," but your bats are amazing, and they speak for themselves!
My only gripe is if you need to do any further trimming of a piece, but really it's better to just throw tidier pots, am I right? ;)
That’s my opinion... I’m just trying to ease people into the idea bc most people wire and trim and think you have to. I do trim lids and I probably should trim some other things but for now ... nah. Haha
well that it, if you're getting the results you're after then that's great, and really it's only efficient to use only as much clay when throwing as you need ;)
Trimming takes time, which could be better spent throwing... Or hanging out with loved ones - so efficient throwing is best
Love it! I’m a new potter and struggling with getting some pieces off the bat...
Mat your work is amazing, I too let them dry without wiring, but if I do wire which is rare. I sand them with a belt sander when they are greenware, and sometimes use the sander to get a nice cut design as well. keep the vids coming.... oh did you see the jonthepotter episode where he mentions you as one of the great potters? haymanspottery on etsy...lol had to plug my cups lol sorry
Thank you. I try to stay away from sanding greenware because of the dust but whatever works for you. Yeah Jon is a great guy.
Shameless plug...
Does it work on plastic bats too? Will they self release?
Just out of curiosity, are there any pieces you make that absolutely require you to trim a foot on them? Thank you. :)
I do have to trim lids which is not a “foot” but I throw them upside down and then turn over and trim and add the knob.
Do they self release on Plastic bats?
Yes they will self release from plastic bats also
This is a great idea because I do not like cutting pots off the bat because then the bottoms get messed up for me. And thanks for adding in the coffee mug tip because I was wondering about that since you have to put the handles on when they are not as dry.
Hello Matthew I threw a heap of pots and bowls yesterday to try this method out, with altered rims etc, as turning is hard without a chuck. How long does it usually take for the pots to release, mine haven't come away yet (nearly 40hours)?
That all depends on the size of the piece and the weather outside and atmosphere/moisture in your studio. It would be hard to say without seeing them to say if they’re ready to release or not.
@@MatthewKellyPottery thankyou for your reply ... they started releasing after i wrote the comment and for a few hours later for the bigger pieces .. I don't have masonite bats so this was an issue, and one was like MDF board and the wood swelled and stuck to the bottom of the pot haha, but I can turn it still. I will get the masonite eventually but it is a brilliant method for making narrow neck forms and large platters that are hard to turn... cheers from down under mate :)
I’m so glad to hear that some of them released and the others you still salvaged. If your bats are not tempered it definitely could ruin them to leave pots on them if it makes the bats swell.
11:56 is an optical illusion. I’m wondering why you are signing the inside of the bowl, then realizing it is the outside. 😂
Appreciate the video. I will try this on larger pieces or plates, for me those can be the biggest challenge to get off bats. I have trashed several during that part of the process. I have been wiring when I throw, wiring again the next morning and covering with plastic. I use plasti bats. Typically I stamp the bottom, but if this works I am fine signing. Get well soon.
Awesome. The wider the piece the slower you need to dry it but you probably already know that. Cheers
Hello Matthew, great short cut but won’t the base be to thick & maybe crack in the firing ? Or I suppose you throw with that in mind 😁
Yes I throw everything with that in mind. If I had cracking issues I definitely would do things differently. Cheers
I think my bats are a similar material (weathertex- compressed exterior cladding), fingers crossed it will release my pots.
Turning is the bane of my existence, and I'm not particularly fond of foot rings. Thank you!
You’re welcome. I’m glad to help.
Hi Matthew, Thanks for filming this, it really completes the picture of how you process your pots... You didn't even have to re-grip your bottles when you scrapped the bottoms! For me, when I throw large platters I end up with too much clay at the bottom, so really need to trim those... Haha, just saw your out takes !! Those are funny.
Yes I’ve spent years refining the skill to get all of that clay out of the bottom as to not have to trim later.
Tempered masonite is hard to find.
Thanks, I really appreciate your help
Matt I too use the tempered masonite for the bats that I make. I did a youtube video, but I do both. Some I let dry and some I wire off. I do like the way you sign all your pieces, it has that personal touch. eddiespottery.
Yes I love adding that personal touch of hand signing.
i do the same thing except i use plastic bats for small pieces.
That works also
Great tips, thank you!
Would you talk a bit about the drying process? Should pieces be dried slow by covering with plastic?
Drying speed is important especially for wider forms but that is important even if you wire those large forms off the bat. The wider the piece the slower it needs to dry
This is brilliant! And love the bloopers!
Another great video! (Love the bloopers at the end...lol) I just need to be proficient enough to not need to trim the pot now. Right now, I just don't have the experience to throw without leaving too much at the bottom. I'll keep working on it. You sure have a great method going!
That method takes years to develop but it is more efficient. I’m glad you like the bloopers.
Awesomesauce! Thanks for all the explanations behind your craftsmanship. Helps those of us refining our technique to see how the pros do it!
You’re welcome. I’m glad it helps
I have had a lot of success drying on bats but sometimes with certain clays grog'd 112 standard I get a bunch of lame S cracks and I haven't changed anything really with my process. Since they are on the bats so long in order to pop them off I think it may be due to wall thickness near the bottom of mug which sometimes happens. Do you ever flip them on the rims in order to close the inside and let them dry more w the bat on the top? I understand it has to do with uneven drying or thickness issues but when drying on the bat that is almost part of the process sometimes unless you let it take absolutely forever to get them to pop off. Any tips would be super appreciated. I thought my experience was beyond S cracks but I guess not! It's been a few years on the wheel and perhaps i have been lucky with B-Mix very forgiving clay. TYVM! (I use tempered 1/4" hardboard also about 9.5" just to get the corners on the pins solid.) i made them they look nearly identical to yours. Best decision i ever made going to those bats.
My larger pieces that I need to dry slow I will pull a wire under after a day or two of drying because a slow release from the bat can cause the bottoms to bow/warp. My experience with a cracks is that I’ve seen them mostly from clay ball orientation when thrown on the wheel depending on how it was pugged/wedged.
I have a question re applying handles. Is not the pot too dry to apply handles when it releases from the bat? Really enjoy your work
I apply handles while the pot is still on the bat. I have a handle video where I show that
Nice work.
Outtakes are fun to watch!
😂
The outtakes are great. Love that you are human
I’m glad you enjoyed them
Nice video! Can you do it with wide bottom pieces? :)
I do it with just about all of my pieces. I do plates and platters, etc
Matthew Kelly Pottery thank you! That’s great to know, I must try it with my dog bowls! :)
Matthew, sorry you have a cold, but the bloopers are definitely entertaining! Learning your dry-on-the-bat technique is very useful, and another example of the great efficiency you have developed in your craft - excellent! Thanks for sharing and educating us.
I will incorporate chattering, cutting and trimming the sponge holders while still attached to the bat and see how this works out. (Applying my stamp on the side wall) Should also work well for applying medallions too .....
Then I will patiently wait til' they release from the bats.
Trim the foot, number the pot, glaze and fire...
Great video as usual and enjoying the bloopers too! Is there tea and honey in that tankard?
Thanks for sharing.
This friend speaks my mind.
Haha
Will have to give this a try . . . . . . .
Me too. People in my community studio thi k I'm crazy. As soon as the pot can hold itself upside down, I flip that baby.
Awesome. If you have the space and the bats it’s a great technique.
Matthew, couldn't tell from video. Are you bats 12" or 14"?
Those are 12” bats
Thanks. Have a great day.
You’re welcome
Hope you feel better soon.
Thank you!
The bats are easy to make from white hardboard and cost about $0.50/bat for materials. I could not find true 1/4 inch Masonite so had to shorten the bat pins with a grinder. I still cut my pots off the bat and trim a foot. Not sure it makes that much difference in purchase decision but it makes me feel like they are finished to the best of my abilities.
Yeah it is hard to find 1/4 inch masonite. That’s we all strive to do - make our work to the best of our ability.