Hey Mark! Thanx for the upload! Very useful info as usual. Thank you. FYI I have a tool specifically for removing rubber exhaust grommets. it works great. also us pipe fitters use tapered pins to line up flange bolts, that tool crosses over nicely for automotive for getting shock bolts back in effortlessly without chingering up the bolt threads...lastly a quality heat gun would be much safer than using a torch for heating things up around flammables...stay safe my friend I'm loving watching you DIY build your Z!!!
Wow, thank you! That must be some heat gun. Mine would take forever to get the stock bushing hot enough to melt out. The tapered pin for the shock bolt is a great idea. Thanks fo watching.
@@fasnuf Last night I was thinking about how to get those rubber bushings out of there with out using any heat. Do you think trying to drill 1/2 inch holes up through the bottom of the bushings at 90 degrees apart might relieve enough radial tension then try spraying a little of that Harbor Freight penetrating rusty nut blaster around the top lip so it can trickle down between the rubber and metal then try pulling them down and out with a pair of those giant channel locks? Do you think that might be feasible or might that be taking a risk of wasting time trying? I'm petrified of using an open flame around the car knowing me I would burn my garage down!!!.. and since the bushings get destroyed in the process of removal anyway... just brain storming. I just retired so my C5Z is very close to going under the knife and I will be revisiting all of your content very closely in the very near future. Please don't think I'm suggesting how to do anything when I'm commenting, it's all stuff that would just fly out of my wind sucker if I were right there next to you in the garage along for the ride. Peace Brother!!
@@fasnuf Proper Shmopper leave that cradle drop to the pros who get paid handsomely!!! We're rebels over here jus gittn er dun how we know how with what we got right?
There's guys out there that use a jack stands and get it done too, but I wanted to show how to do it with the 4 post lift. A 2 post lift would be a different story since the wheels are off the floor. Hope the video gives you ideas for how to do yours.
I can tell you exactly why that bushing was bent 😂 they didn’t want to jack it up by the diff so they jacked it up there to keep the normal spot in the side free for a jack stand.
How bad is the NVH? I want a stiffer rear end, but I don't know if i should go poly or aluminum. I don't mind some noise but exactly how much noise would it be going with aluminum?
Exactly I don't know, but it's the one mod that made the most added NVH to the car with the one exception being my exhaust changes. If you're familiar how car sounded and felt stock, it is quite noticeable amount of road noise and vibration but you definately feel connected and this is a street racer and not a daily at all.
Also keep in mind that I have the Hotchkis Chassis MAX brace on too and they were basically done at the same time so it may be hard to tell if it added any NVH.
@fasnuf thanks for the input. I drive a 2018 Daytona charger. It's my weekend car and is already pretty loud with a cam and catless longtubes. I think I might do the aluminum bushings, I have cradle lockouts but haven't gotten them installed.
Hey Mark! Thanx for the upload! Very useful info as usual. Thank you. FYI I have a tool specifically for removing rubber exhaust grommets. it works great. also us pipe fitters use tapered pins to line up flange bolts, that tool crosses over nicely for automotive for getting shock bolts back in effortlessly without chingering up the bolt threads...lastly a quality heat gun would be much safer than using a torch for heating things up around flammables...stay safe my friend I'm loving watching you DIY build your Z!!!
Wow, thank you! That must be some heat gun. Mine would take forever to get the stock bushing hot enough to melt out. The tapered pin for the shock bolt is a great idea. Thanks fo watching.
@@fasnuf Last night I was thinking about how to get those rubber bushings out of there with out using any heat. Do you think trying to drill 1/2 inch holes up through the bottom of the bushings at 90 degrees apart might relieve enough radial tension then try spraying a little of that Harbor Freight penetrating rusty nut blaster around the top lip so it can trickle down between the rubber and metal then try pulling them down and out with a pair of those giant channel locks? Do you think that might be feasible or might that be taking a risk of wasting time trying? I'm petrified of using an open flame around the car knowing me I would burn my garage down!!!.. and since the bushings get destroyed in the process of removal anyway... just brain storming. I just retired so my C5Z is very close to going under the knife and I will be revisiting all of your content very closely in the very near future. Please don't think I'm suggesting how to do anything when I'm commenting, it's all stuff that would just fly out of my wind sucker if I were right there next to you in the garage along for the ride. Peace Brother!!
@@Mechaniclemaniac The proper way is to drop the cradle and diff out and press the bushings out. That's according to the Service Manual.
@@fasnuf Proper Shmopper leave that cradle drop to the pros who get paid handsomely!!! We're rebels over here jus gittn er dun how we know how with what we got right?
@@Mechaniclemaniac LOL right! That's how we roll!
I recently installed them on mine I had to use jack stands it wasn’t too bad I love how stiff it made the rear end
It does make a big difference. Thanks for the comment
I do it when my Buddy get's a Lift installed, pretty much not doable without one. Good Job
There's guys out there that use a jack stands and get it done too, but I wanted to show how to do it with the 4 post lift. A 2 post lift would be a different story since the wheels are off the floor. Hope the video gives you ideas for how to do yours.
@@fasnuf I tell you what, I drive to your place, give you $100 and you can put em in, what do ya say ? Deal ? lol
I can tell you exactly why that bushing was bent 😂 they didn’t want to jack it up by the diff so they jacked it up there to keep the normal spot in the side free for a jack stand.
Except its bent out not in. confusing for sure
How bad is the NVH? I want a stiffer rear end, but I don't know if i should go poly or aluminum. I don't mind some noise but exactly how much noise would it be going with aluminum?
Exactly I don't know, but it's the one mod that made the most added NVH to the car with the one exception being my exhaust changes. If you're familiar how car sounded and felt stock, it is quite noticeable amount of road noise and vibration but you definately feel connected and this is a street racer and not a daily at all.
Also keep in mind that I have the Hotchkis Chassis MAX brace on too and they were basically done at the same time so it may be hard to tell if it added any NVH.
@fasnuf thanks for the input. I drive a 2018 Daytona charger. It's my weekend car and is already pretty loud with a cam and catless longtubes. I think I might do the aluminum bushings, I have cradle lockouts but haven't gotten them installed.
@@brandonmcginnis4610 You might want to try the lockouts if they're easily installed. They might do what you want. I consider the bushings permanent.