I have had to replace three actuators on this vehicle so far, and wanted to share an easier way I found to make the shaft on the new actuator turn in order to get it into the same position as the shaft was on the old actuator. I used two pieces of wire (plastic coated electrical wire) that were about 12 inches long, I raised the hood, and attached the end of one wire to the negative battery terminal and one end of the other wire to the positive battery terminal. By attached, I mean very lightly attached by shoving the end of the wire in between the cable attached to the post as best I could just so it made direct electrical contact. Then I touched each of the other ends of the wires to the two electrical contacts where the plug from the car goes in on top of the actuator, which made the shaft turn. It was easy to get the shaft lined up in the proper position this way by lightly touching the contacts and making the shaft move slightly each time. Also, the last Dorman actuator I bought lasted only about 1 1/2 years, so this time I bought an OEM AC Delco part. I had read that this would last longer than the Dorman. Here's my Amazon Associate link to the AC Delco part: amzn.to/3IcUBik
I had it checked by a mechanic, he said it takes 3.5 hrs to replace. Saw your video and it took me 25 minutes. Took longer to buy the part at orielys...thanks parner.
You’re welcome, and glad to hear you saved all that money! Makes all that bending around in the dash worth it. I’ve had to replace three of them so far in this car.
Best video to replace this part, there are quite a few videos on youtube for this and yours is the only one that told me how to reset the HVAC my replacement parts did not come with those instructions so your a life saver
I just did my third actuator on my Impala, the same one you did here. That big wiring harness can be popped loose from its anchor point on the blower assembly, which gives you a couple more inches of valuable space. Great video, thanks!
I followed your direction and I was successful with no loss of tools or screws. Took me about an hour. I'm glad for my small hands bc it was tight. Thx much for your video!!
407pm on Thursday. I just changed the blend door actuator in my 2012impala and even though it was hard to get at I was able to do it thanks to your video. I'm a 61 year old woman and not in the best of shape but I did it! GM was going to charge me 1500 dollars to do it. It cost me 50. So thanks again.
I know what you mean! Dealerships and garages charge a ton to do this job. Years ago, I had it done at a Chevrolet dealer and it cost me $800. Never again…I learned my lesson and I learned how to do it myself. Glad it worked out for you, even though I know it’s awkward to get to. Worth it!
Just what I was looking for. I am a Mechanical Engineer retired so I like to do these things myself. But experience tells me guys like Stan can save me a lot of trouble because I have never done it before. I could see there was interference getting the battery out. Stan taught me how. Saved $50 bucks buying my Interstate battery at Costco instead of at the Interstate store who would have installed it but it cost $50 bucks more. Stan, very good job on the video.
I want to thank you for the most comprehensive instruction on performing this task. My step son and I completed the job in about 1 1/2 hours. The most difficult part was aligning the actuator output connector with the end of the blend door. Thankfully, I own a 12 volt power supply. When attempting to get it in the correct position, while using the connector in the car, it was a royal pain in the butt. I finally got the slot in the correct 'region' and on it went! Your manual calibration also worked flawlessly. We waited the full 5 minutes for each step. Thank you again!
That’s great! Really glad to hear it went well for you. It’s not always the easiest repair to complete, but it saves a lot of money over having it done by a garage/repair shop.
I did the drivers side and the one on the left side of the glove box a year ago. Today the one on the right side of the glove box started clicking,I'll be doing that this weekend. I just reached up and turned the vent door by hand to align it with the actuator no need to hook up power to the actuator to align it,I just moved the door all the way forward and it went together no problem on the first two I replaced.
@@MrCorydog The actuator is in the correct position right out of the box. I did the reset with unhooking the battery that I found online. I have done all 3 actuators now,the first 2 a year ago and they are working great.
This was the best video on this subject I have seen. Very direct and to the point without taking up time videoing the time consuming actual work. Have had to change out two of these for my daughter and none of the other videos talked about recalibrating. Thanks so much.
Glad to hear it helped - it saved me a lot of money by doing it myself. And I’ve also had to change out two of them in this same car. Apparently it’s a common problem with this vehicle.
This was VERY well done and saved me a trip to the mechanic. I'm not mechanically inclined at all but was able to handle it with this video and the tools suggested. Thank you!
thank you for your helpful video i had to replace 2 of my blend door actuators. i did all the steps you show in the video but my 2008 chevy impala did not need to be to be recalibrated. it was plug in and go it works perfect now and no more annoying clicking thank you so much
THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH !!! Just happened to have the same tool set-up as yours except with a deep-well socket. Worked great until I turned the engine back on and realized that I had put the old actuator back on !!! Tap- tap- tap..... Took about 20 minutes to do it a 2nd time with the new actuator. My 83 year old Mom is elated that her car is fixed. Again, MUCH THANKS !!!
Thank You for your instructional video on how to replace the blend door actuator. Saved me lots of time and effort. Thanks also for including the instructions on how to calibrate the motors and for the tips on the socket and screws.
Great video! Step by step. Even down to tying a string around the swivel socket, so if you drop it you can fish it out, that saved me losing it. Saved me a bunch of money. Thanks for posting this, I replaced the passenger side door actuator and now I am going to replace the driver's side. I am getting AC only on passenger side, when AC is on drivers side blows warm air. I highly appreciate this video.
Have to compliment you on your instructions. Thoroughly and right to the point. Our 2012 Impala is now back in shape with your much appreciated help. Thank you.
Very glad to hear it helped...it's not the easiest job to complete, especially depending on which actuator has to be replaced, but it's worth doing it to save the money. Thanks for watching!
A video done In Detail and to the point. The way all should be done!! Congrats to you. I have a 12 Impala with this problem and will be using this vid. Much appreciated for posting.
That socket with an elbow is a must and makes the job very easy. I had to replace the actuator on left side so the socket made the work much easy Also your tip about tying a thread was very useful. Great video
Your video helped me a lot. Very informative and clear instructions from start to beginning. The only difference I did was just screw in the first screw closest to the glove box since the back one gave me a hard time. Let’s see if that works until I have to replace it again
I did one a few months ago and luckily when i bought the part, it came as a 2 pack because i just had to do the other one. Helpful video, especially the calibration part
Thank you for posting, esp regarding "recalibration" other websites did not mention. I have to redo my Dornan brand broke within minutes. I am wondering if by not recalibrating I caused it? I too was worried but of mostly dropping a screw. I have found that positioning a thin, small piece of fabric below the installation helps. It acts like the net below a circus performer!
I like the idea of the safety net! I've dropped a few screws and nuts down into hard to get places, so I'm up for anything that helps me with that. Not sure about the actuator...maybe just got a bad one?
@@HowSkills I like your idea using the string. I have used grease in a socket to hold screws/bolts for outdoor parts and I have heard of magnetic sockets but don't need another socket set.
THANK YOU. That clicking was driving me crazy. Way too loud in a confined space like that. This wasn't a problem until I took my car to have a noise from my brakes fixed at MAVIS. As soon as I left there I had an issue.
That noise can drive you crazy in a hurry...I've had to put three of these in so far, and I did them the same day they started clicking. I wish they made these parts better to start with so they'd last longer.
Best video on replacing the Blendor Actuator. I am having a problem trying to get the Out put Connector to rotate when I connect the Actuator to the Power.
Dude you are awesome thank you for the video and the step by step and the exact location of the actuator I need mine done it has gone bad thanks again for your time on making a video God bless.
Thank you for this informative and well thought out video. I have replaced a 2000 blazer actuator which was more difficult. This video will definitely help me replace my dual bongo issue ASAP. I just bought the car used couple months ago. Lol.
These cars have a way of needing these replaced way more often than they should, but luckily it's something we can fix on our own. No more dual bongos!
one of my actuators went out over 6 months ago. and recently i think another may have gone out. there’s 2 cycles of clicking/clanking. one clicks for a minute or two and stops, then another one clicks for a minute or two and stops. are all actuators the same or do i need two different specific actuators? great video, very well detailed. LETS GO BLUES
You’d have to check the part numbers for your specific vehicle to be sure, but in general, the parts would be the same. I had to replace three of them in my car. It’s a shame that Chevy used a part in their vehicles that was so prone to failure.
Hello All, we have a 2016 LT Limited, and I see 2 actuators on the left side of the glove box. Any best ideas how to get to the one closest to the front of the dash? It is behind a thin plastic wall. Would that be the one considered behind or adjacent to the stereo?
That noise can get more frequent and more annoying as it goes on, so it’s definitely a good feeling and a rest for your ears once it’s fixed. Thanks for watching!
I'm wondering if there's a replacement part that is redesigned not to bust a tooth off that gear? I've turned the gear 180 degrees out on my inlaws modules and they worked for a few years after words. The passenger side is doing it again now. I'll take it apart this weekend and see if two teeth are broken this time.
Not sure of which is the best part to buy, but I've replaced three actuators on this vehicle and used Dorman for the first two. The last Dorman I put in only lasted one year, so the most recent one I installed was an OEM part, an AC Delco actuator. I had read on some forums that these would last longer and were made better than the Dorman. I'll find out eventually, I guess!
I’m not sure about that. I mainly noticed that it controlled mixing hot and cold air for the dash vents, but it very probably mixed the air for the defrosters too.
Have a 2016 Malibu LT and the front defrost stopped working. Dealer quoted $1,300 to fix it and stated the entire dash needs to come out. Wonder if it's as easy as going through the glovebox to fix a defrost actuator or if there is something else that needs to be done?
Hi, I hope you see my comment, question. My recirculator actuator on the passenger side, furthest to the right, was clicking. I disconnected it because it drained my battery. My question is, do I really need a new one, or can I go without one? Thank you!
That just depends on whether what it did is important enough to you. If it prevents you from switching between cooling and heating, that could be reason enough to replace it. And I'm thinking the one you're describing does that. If it just switches between different air output locations (like between floor or dash vents) then you might be able to live with that.
I have heard that. Someone mentioned pulling the display fuse, but not sure if that alone would be enough or what others specifically would have to be pulled. Would probably have the same result if done right.
After replacing the actuator what do you do if you still don't get air blowing? Different issue? Also thanks for the video! Very helpful for a non mechanic like myself!
It may be a different issue. Or you may have another actuator that's gone bad and it isn't opening up the right pathway for the air to come through. The Impala Limited has four actuators that control different parts of the heating & A/C, and I had two different ones go bad in two months. Sorry I can't be of more help. Do you hear the fan blowing, but the air isn't coming out where it should?
@@HowSkills I didn't hear any air blowing at all but I'm going to uninstall and reinstall later today and listen more. The door did open and close after we changed the actuator but it wasn't moving smoothly then after turning the key off and on a few times it didn't move at all. I'll see if there's any change when I start it this morning. Didn't have a lot of time to mess with it last night. Thank you for the quick response! Update: I uninstalled then reinstalled it and same problem. So I decided to put the new actuator where the other visible one was also behind the glovebox. Slight noise briefly and no air blasting. I still don't hear the fan BUT I can feel very little coming out of all vents which I didn't have before. Driver side adjusts hot and cold but passenger side is only cold and colder. My guess is I do have 2 bad actuators. Would that cause the temperature difference and the air not blowing hard?
@@HowSkills it turned out to be a bad blower motor resistor. The actuator also needed replaced but the resistor had a burnt up wire. Had a friend look at it and he wired around it to give me heat. So now after I replace the resistor I should be all set. Thanks again for your video!
Bro did you figure it out? I been scanning these comments bc this happened to me. Right after I changed my radiator fan, the AC worked for a day. Next day passenger side was blowing hot. Today I replaced the driver side actuator, thinking that’s why it’s hot/cold, the clicking stopped but it still blow hot on passenger side.
Your instructions were perfect. Only suggestion I have is to use a "thumb wheel ratchet drive to get the screws out. Chevy should be ashamed at the maintainability design. They must want to increase the time to repair for their dealers.
This clicking problem is in our 2013 Impala with 137,000 miles. We only use that car for local errands. My question is: In time will the clicking just go away? Thanks
@@HowSkills I didn't end up removing the glove box BUT thank you so much for this video! I was able to fix my husbands blend door so my daughter and I have heat now! :) Now onto the next issue with the car!
I replaced two of mine a year ago,the drivers side and the left one behind the glove box. Today the right one behind the glove box started clicking. The first two I just reached up and grabbed the shaft on the vent door and turned it all the way forward to align it so the actuator went on,no need to power up the actuator to align it.
@@HowSkills I did put in the actuator this past weekend and I just flipped the door to the open position and the actuator lined right up. They already come set out of the box in the right position so just flip the door to the other position if it doesn't line up. It worked on all three for me.
Instead of trying to remove the glove box pins, just remove the 4 phillips screws and the 3 7/64 hex screws for the handle, and take the box part off. Much easier.
No, no it's not. Removing the glove box door is just LITERALLY removing 2 pins. Don't disassemble more than you need to. I've replaced passenger side actuators 4 times. I say this from experience.
There are three on the right side that you can get to through the glove box. The other is on the driver’s side - is that the one that’s making the noise?
@@HowSkills How difficult is the driver side one? I was under the impression I was gonna have to take the dash off to get to the left side one. I've seen someone say its under the cover of the drivers side and you change it there much like you did this one with the glove box covering the opening.
Stan, I opened the fault actuator and it is the same gear they sell on line for $12.99. Other gears look fine. Is it worth it? I understand it isn't worth it for the actuator that goes behind the radio, but the other two (passenger outer one, and driver side) aren't that bad to replace. It's a shame no one makes a metal or tougher nylon gear set.
I have never tried that, but it sounds like it would be worth it. That gear going bad is the main problem with this part, and it apparently isn't designed with long life in mind. I'm like you...I wish someone would made a sturdier gear set. Not the best design, Chevrolet!
There are actually four altogether on this vehicle…three on the right side behind the glove box, and one on the driver’s side under the steering column.
@@HowSkills I did the one on driver's side because it would blow cold but hot on passenger side know it opposite hot driver side cold passenger side so which one do I replace on passenger side? I don't have clicking noise
my 2014 impala lt doesnt have the clicking noise but instead does not blow air through any vents besides the defrost and does not respond to changing vents, would this be related to the actuator?
On its own, it wouldn’t normally drain the battery. It might slightly increase the drain on the battery, but that would only be when the ignition was turned on and electricity was flowing, and the alternator should be able to keep the battery sufficiently charged when the engine is running.
The ones on the right behind the glove box are fairly close to each other and you can normally isolate which one is the problem. There's one that's flat against the left side of the glove box area and one that's mounted up and to the right side as in this video. Since the actuator isn't making noise, take turns placing your fingers on the two actuators that are out in the open as you move the heating/cooling controls. If the actuator is good, you should be able to feel a movement or vibration in it. If you go through the full range of temperature settings and you feel nothing from the actuator, then that's probably the bad one.
My 2014 Impala isn’t making a clicking noise, but when the AC runs, it will randomly start blowing really hot air on the driver side only. The only thing I’ve had work so far is unplugging the HVAC fuse, or turning my AC completely off for over a day. Any tips for repair? I don’t want to take apart my car for it not to be the actuator.
Yes, it could still be related to an actuator failure. A lot of times when one goes bad, there is a distinctive clicking noise, but not always. A bad actuator would be my first guess.
Can anyone tag a link that explains about recalibration for these things. I have replaced all 3 and I'm still getting that tapping on my driver's side. Thanks in advance
My daughter got one of these 2008 Impalas as a first car. The blend door actuator was making the ticking sound. We replaced it. It now opens and closes the blend door, but thwacks the door closed for another 30 seconds after reaching the closed position. Thump, thump, thump, it beats the door like its a drummer in a bad bar band. Same thing happens when it opens the blend door. Reaches the fully open position and then thump, thump, thump, repeatedly tries to open it again like it doesn't realize it is already open. What can we do to correct this other than leave the actuator disconnected?
Sounds like it may not be calibrated. Try this advice from an online forum: disconnect the negative battery terminal for five minutes, then reconnect it. Start the car and do not touch the HVAC controls. The HVAC system will perform a self-calibration which takes about two minutes. During this time you may hear the controls moving and activating if you are seating inside the car. Do this first before removing the new part or disconnecting it.
@@HowSkills Thanks very much for the reply Stan. Here is a video of my problem: ua-cam.com/video/F9p3YtjNWSs/v-deo.html I tried to re-calibrate it by turning the fan off (to zero), turning off the car, pulling the DISPLAY fuse, waiting 10 minutes, then replacing the fuse, then putting the car into accessory mode, waiting 5 minutes and then starting the car. Seems to have made no difference. Is there a micro-controller that might need replacement? Would I need to clear any diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) beforehand for the re-calibration to be effective? I don't have an OBD tool. Would having an OBD tool be necessary to clear the DTCs and force the re-calibration? If so, do you have one to recommend? Thanks again.
I'm doing the manual calibration right now and when it's time to take the key out and then, connect the negative battery cable, I can't even get the key out of the ignition..... it's locked in position as soon as I turn it to the "on" position.
OK thank you. Is the actuator supposed to be plugged in during all of this? Or does it need to calibrate, then plug it in? Sorry if that sounds stupid, I tried it last night a few times and it just continously clicks everytime after I follow the calibration steps (with it plugged in).
There is also an actuator for the driver’s side so it possibly may need replaced too. It’s located under the steering column area. This vehicle has four actuators altogether, which is a pain, since they apparently weren’t engineered for longevity.
@@HowSkills ok so I replaced all 4 blend door actuators...nothing hot air still out the drivers side ......had my ac vacuum and recharged it to specs.....nothing I over filled it and it started blowing a little bit cold passenger's side ice cubes fall out of that side what gives?.??
I have had to replace three actuators on this vehicle so far, and wanted to share an easier way I found to make the shaft on the new actuator turn in order to get it into the same position as the shaft was on the old actuator. I used two pieces of wire (plastic coated electrical wire) that were about 12 inches long, I raised the hood, and attached the end of one wire to the negative battery terminal and one end of the other wire to the positive battery terminal. By attached, I mean very lightly attached by shoving the end of the wire in between the cable attached to the post as best I could just so it made direct electrical contact. Then I touched each of the other ends of the wires to the two electrical contacts where the plug from the car goes in on top of the actuator, which made the shaft turn. It was easy to get the shaft lined up in the proper position this way by lightly touching the contacts and making the shaft move slightly each time. Also, the last Dorman actuator I bought lasted only about 1 1/2 years, so this time I bought an OEM AC Delco part. I had read that this would last longer than the Dorman. Here's my Amazon Associate link to the AC Delco part: amzn.to/3IcUBik
On my car the turns off. And turns on and when I push it up it turns on it is it the same piece that causes that
This was great advice, which I used when another actuator went out! Thanks for sharing this.
Will this drain battery
Thanks so much for this. I have an opportunity to get an Impala for super cheap because the actuator has gone out.
@@morghana3775 Nice - go for it!
I had it checked by a mechanic, he said it takes 3.5 hrs to replace. Saw your video and it took me 25 minutes. Took longer to buy the part at orielys...thanks parner.
You’re welcome, and glad to hear you saved all that money! Makes all that bending around in the dash worth it. I’ve had to replace three of them so far in this car.
Best video to replace this part, there are quite a few videos on youtube for this and yours is the only one that told me how to reset the HVAC my replacement parts did not come with those instructions so your a life saver
I'm very glad it helped!
I just did my third actuator on my Impala, the same one you did here. That big wiring harness can be popped loose from its anchor point on the blower assembly, which gives you a couple more inches of valuable space. Great video, thanks!
The trick with dropping glovebox by removing its pins are great! Saving so much trouble! Thank you for such clear instructions!
Glad it helped! It worked better for me that way, at least.
I followed your direction and I was successful with no loss of tools or screws. Took me about an hour. I'm glad for my small hands bc it was tight. Thx much for your video!!
Glad to hear it helped, and thanks for watching!
I'm 6 5 with big hands.... it was difficult but I was successful....perfect video...dropping the glove box is the key
@claytonlambourne7545 Glad it worked out for you and you saved some money!
407pm on Thursday. I just changed the blend door actuator in my 2012impala and even though it was hard to get at I was able to do it thanks to your video. I'm a 61 year old woman and not in the best of shape but I did it! GM was going to charge me 1500 dollars to do it. It cost me 50. So thanks again.
I know what you mean! Dealerships and garages charge a ton to do this job. Years ago, I had it done at a Chevrolet dealer and it cost me $800. Never again…I learned my lesson and I learned how to do it myself. Glad it worked out for you, even though I know it’s awkward to get to. Worth it!
Just what I was looking for. I am a Mechanical Engineer retired so I like to do these things myself. But experience tells me guys like Stan can save me a lot of trouble because I have never done it before. I could see there was interference getting the battery out. Stan taught me how. Saved $50 bucks buying my Interstate battery at Costco instead of at the Interstate store who would have installed it but it cost $50 bucks more. Stan, very good job on the video.
Thank you very much for watching, and for leaving the kind comment. I bet I could learn a lot from you!
I want to thank you for the most comprehensive instruction on performing this task. My step son and I completed the job in about 1 1/2 hours. The most difficult part was aligning the actuator output connector with the end of the blend door. Thankfully, I own a 12 volt power supply. When attempting to get it in the correct position, while using the connector in the car, it was a royal pain in the butt. I finally got the slot in the correct 'region' and on it went! Your manual calibration also worked flawlessly. We waited the full 5 minutes for each step. Thank you again!
That’s great! Really glad to hear it went well for you. It’s not always the easiest repair to complete, but it saves a lot of money over having it done by a garage/repair shop.
I did the drivers side and the one on the left side of the glove box a year ago.
Today the one on the right side of the glove box started clicking,I'll be doing that this weekend.
I just reached up and turned the vent door by hand to align it with the actuator no need to hook up power to the actuator to align it,I just moved the door all the way forward and it went together no problem on the first two I replaced.
@@doobiz You still have to make sure you follow the recalibration procedure, especially if you reposition the door to fit the acctuator.
@@MrCorydog The actuator is in the correct position right out of the box.
I did the reset with unhooking the battery that I found online.
I have done all 3 actuators now,the first 2 a year ago and they are working great.
This was the best video on this subject I have seen. Very direct and to the point without taking up time videoing the time consuming actual work. Have had to change out two of these for my daughter and none of the other videos talked about recalibrating. Thanks so much.
Glad to hear it helped - it saved me a lot of money by doing it myself. And I’ve also had to change out two of them in this same car. Apparently it’s a common problem with this vehicle.
This was VERY well done and saved me a trip to the mechanic. I'm not mechanically inclined at all but was able to handle it with this video and the tools suggested. Thank you!
Really glad to hear it helped! Doing this yourself saved you money, and it's definitely worth the time and effort. Thanks for watching.
Best "How to" videos I've seen on UA-cam.
Thanks, and I hope it helped you out!
thank you for your helpful video i had to replace 2 of my blend door actuators. i did all the steps you show in the video but my 2008 chevy impala did not need to be to be recalibrated. it was plug in and go it works perfect now and no more annoying clicking thank you so much
You’re welcome, and glad to hear it went so good! Thanks for watching.
THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH !!! Just happened to have the same tool set-up as yours except with a deep-well socket. Worked great until I turned the engine back on and realized that I had put the old actuator back on !!! Tap- tap- tap..... Took about 20 minutes to do it a 2nd time with the new actuator. My 83 year old Mom is elated that her car is fixed. Again, MUCH THANKS !!!
You’re very welcome. It’s not the easiest repair to do, but worth it to save the money!
Thank You for your instructional video on how to replace the blend door actuator. Saved me lots of time and effort. Thanks also for including the instructions on how to calibrate the motors and for the tips on the socket and screws.
You're welcome, and it's a good feeling to do this yourself and not have to pay someone to do it for you, isn't it!
Very detailed and in-depth while not being overloaded and confusing. Thanks for this demonstration and walking us through it.
You're very welcome...hope it helped!
Great video! Step by step. Even down to tying a string around the swivel socket, so if you drop it you can fish it out, that saved me losing it. Saved me a bunch of money. Thanks for posting this, I replaced the passenger side door actuator and now I am going to replace the driver's side. I am getting AC only on passenger side, when AC is on drivers side blows warm air. I highly appreciate this video.
Glad to hear it helped, and real glad to hear it saved you money!
Have to compliment you on your instructions. Thoroughly and right to the point. Our 2012 Impala is now back in shape with your much appreciated help. Thank you.
Very glad to hear it helped...it's not the easiest job to complete, especially depending on which actuator has to be replaced, but it's worth doing it to save the money. Thanks for watching!
Best video out there for this problem. Tip on pulling glove box door off and the calibration details were excellent. Well done and thank you !!!
Glad it helped!
A video done In Detail and to the point. The way all should be done!! Congrats to you. I have a 12 Impala with this problem and will be using this vid. Much appreciated for posting.
Thanks for watching. I've had to replace three so far on this car, and the job goes faster everytime.
Best video I've seen to replace that part. Big thumbs up 👍
Glad it helped, and thanks for watching the video. I had to replace another one just last week, but that one was a little easier to get to.
👍🏾 you are the bomb your detailed description made this job so easy I looked like a long time certified mechanic
Nice! Feels pretty good to do that yourself and save money, doesn’t it!
got it done! no more clicking and i’ve got heat again. thanks for your help this video is great
Great job! Glad to hear it all went well. I've had to replace three of them, which was annoying, but at least it got easier every time.
That socket with an elbow is a must and makes the job very easy. I had to replace the actuator on left side so the socket made the work much easy Also your tip about tying a thread was very useful. Great video
Thank you very much for leaving the comment and for watching!
Your video helped me a lot. Very informative and clear instructions from start to beginning. The only difference I did was just screw in the first screw closest to the glove box since the back one gave me a hard time. Let’s see if that works until I have to replace it again
It'll probably hold for quite a while. That back screw is a tough one!
I did one a few months ago and luckily when i bought the part, it came as a 2 pack because i just had to do the other one. Helpful video, especially the calibration part
outstanding procedure video ! Clear, easy to follow, the elbow adapter & recalibration tips make all the difference in the world : )
Glad it helped!
By far the best step by step video ! Thank you I will head to my nearest auto parts store now & fix this issue.. wish me luck
Thank you for posting, esp regarding "recalibration" other websites did not mention.
I have to redo my Dornan brand broke within minutes. I am wondering if by not recalibrating I caused it?
I too was worried but of mostly dropping a screw. I have found that positioning a thin, small piece of fabric below the installation helps. It acts like the net below a circus performer!
I like the idea of the safety net! I've dropped a few screws and nuts down into hard to get places, so I'm up for anything that helps me with that. Not sure about the actuator...maybe just got a bad one?
@@HowSkills I like your idea using the string. I have used grease in a socket to hold screws/bolts for outdoor parts and I have heard of magnetic sockets but don't need another socket set.
THANK YOU. That clicking was driving me crazy. Way too loud in a confined space like that. This wasn't a problem until I took my car to have a noise from my brakes fixed at MAVIS. As soon as I left there I had an issue.
That noise can drive you crazy in a hurry...I've had to put three of these in so far, and I did them the same day they started clicking. I wish they made these parts better to start with so they'd last longer.
Best video on replacing the Blendor Actuator. I am having a problem trying to get the Out put Connector to rotate when I connect the Actuator to the Power.
That can be tricky. And trial and error to get it lined up just right, but keep at it and it’ll get there.
This worked for me on the one directly to the left of the one you replaced on your car. Thank you sir
Glad it helped...not a fun repair to make, but one that can save you money doing it yourself!
Getting ready to remove mine tonight. Best video I have seen to do this. Thank you!
Hope it all went well for you! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for your video, the replacement steps were easy and the noise is gone! Happy wife!!
I will be doing my car tomorrow morning, thanks for the informative video.
Awesome...glad it helped! You’re gonna love not hearing that annoying sound anymore.
Great video and great explanation step by step. Have to replace mine soon. This will save me some money
I've had to replace three of them so far, so I've saved a lot of money by doing it myself. You can do it!
Dude you are awesome thank you for the video and the step by step and the exact location of the actuator I need mine done it has gone bad thanks again for your time on making a video God bless.
Glad it helped, and thank you for taking the time to leave this comment. Good luck on the repair!
Thank you for this informative and well thought out video. I have replaced a 2000 blazer actuator which was more difficult. This video will definitely help me replace my dual bongo issue ASAP. I just bought the car used couple months ago. Lol.
These cars have a way of needing these replaced way more often than they should, but luckily it's something we can fix on our own. No more dual bongos!
Sir, thank you so much for this video! You're a blessing & saved me money. I went step by step of your video. Thank you again. God Bless you. 🙌
I'm very glad to hear it helped you! Thank you for watching.
one of my actuators went out over 6 months ago. and recently i think another may have gone out. there’s 2 cycles of clicking/clanking. one clicks for a minute or two and stops, then another one clicks for a minute or two and stops. are all actuators the same or do i need two different specific actuators? great video, very well detailed. LETS GO BLUES
You’d have to check the part numbers for your specific vehicle to be sure, but in general, the parts would be the same. I had to replace three of them in my car. It’s a shame that Chevy used a part in their vehicles that was so prone to failure.
your are very precise on instruction and not to many people do that thx
This video came in clutch. Hardest part was just getting my hand in there to tighten the bolts down on the new actuator!
I know what you mean…those things are hard to get to! But a great feeling when you get the job done…saves a lot of money doing it yourself.
Thank you so much your a hero with out a cape much love
Hope it helped! It saves a lot of money doing it yourself.
Great , informative video, the video was short and efficient. Thank you
Thanx. Great video. Made it easy especially the recalibration part.
Glad to hear it helped!
Just fixed mine thankyou for your video. Made it easy
Glad it helped!
Hello All, we have a 2016 LT Limited, and I see 2 actuators on the left side of the glove box. Any best ideas how to get to the one closest to the front of the dash? It is behind a thin plastic wall. Would that be the one considered behind or adjacent to the stereo?
Did you figure it out?
@@mommalynn8989 Yes - thanks. It was the one on the right side. Let me see if I saved the pics.
I replaced both actuators and the new ones click too. I'm thinking I need to see if the blend doors are somehow in a bind.
That could be the problem. Might try calibrating them again just to be sure.
My actuator is clicking also so the information was very useful thankyou.
You’re welcome, and I’m glad to hear the video helped.
Thanks for video.. that noise started last week on my car and now I can fix it myself...
That noise can get more frequent and more annoying as it goes on, so it’s definitely a good feeling and a rest for your ears once it’s fixed. Thanks for watching!
I'm wondering if there's a replacement part that is redesigned not to bust a tooth off that gear? I've turned the gear 180 degrees out on my inlaws modules and they worked for a few years after words. The passenger side is doing it again now. I'll take it apart this weekend and see if two teeth are broken this time.
Not sure of which is the best part to buy, but I've replaced three actuators on this vehicle and used Dorman for the first two. The last Dorman I put in only lasted one year, so the most recent one I installed was an OEM part, an AC Delco actuator. I had read on some forums that these would last longer and were made better than the Dorman. I'll find out eventually, I guess!
@@HowSkills still going strong!?
Yes!! The AC Delco has performed like a champ!
Thank you Stan...this video made this job easy even for a guy like me
Awesome...glad it helped!
I have a question that actuator u changed was it for the defrost vent
I’m not sure about that. I mainly noticed that it controlled mixing hot and cold air for the dash vents, but it very probably mixed the air for the defrosters too.
Thank you for the detailed video. I am now a fan. :)
Have a 2016 Malibu LT and the front defrost stopped working. Dealer quoted $1,300 to fix it and stated the entire dash needs to come out. Wonder if it's as easy as going through the glovebox to fix a defrost actuator or if there is something else that needs to be done?
Hi, I hope you see my comment, question. My recirculator actuator on the passenger side, furthest to the right, was clicking. I disconnected it because it drained my battery. My question is, do I really need a new one, or can I go without one? Thank you!
That just depends on whether what it did is important enough to you. If it prevents you from switching between cooling and heating, that could be reason enough to replace it. And I'm thinking the one you're describing does that. If it just switches between different air output locations (like between floor or dash vents) then you might be able to live with that.
Thank you for this video and Thank you for the calibration procedure.
You’re welcome...I hope it helps!
I read that you can just pull the fuses and wait 5 minutes instead of disconnecting the battery? Thoughts?
I have heard that. Someone mentioned pulling the display fuse, but not sure if that alone would be enough or what others specifically would have to be pulled. Would probably have the same result if done right.
After replacing the actuator what do you do if you still don't get air blowing? Different issue? Also thanks for the video! Very helpful for a non mechanic like myself!
It may be a different issue. Or you may have another actuator that's gone bad and it isn't opening up the right pathway for the air to come through. The Impala Limited has four actuators that control different parts of the heating & A/C, and I had two different ones go bad in two months. Sorry I can't be of more help. Do you hear the fan blowing, but the air isn't coming out where it should?
@@HowSkills I didn't hear any air blowing at all but I'm going to uninstall and reinstall later today and listen more. The door did open and close after we changed the actuator but it wasn't moving smoothly then after turning the key off and on a few times it didn't move at all. I'll see if there's any change when I start it this morning. Didn't have a lot of time to mess with it last night. Thank you for the quick response!
Update:
I uninstalled then reinstalled it and same problem. So I decided to put the new actuator where the other visible one was also behind the glovebox. Slight noise briefly and no air blasting. I still don't hear the fan BUT I can feel very little coming out of all vents which I didn't have before. Driver side adjusts hot and cold but passenger side is only cold and colder. My guess is I do have 2 bad actuators. Would that cause the temperature difference and the air not blowing hard?
@@HowSkills it turned out to be a bad blower motor resistor. The actuator also needed replaced but the resistor had a burnt up wire. Had a friend look at it and he wired around it to give me heat. So now after I replace the resistor I should be all set. Thanks again for your video!
How do you know which actuator it is when there's no noise or clicking? Blows hot air on passenger side cold on the drivers side.
Thanks
Bro did you figure it out? I been scanning these comments bc this happened to me. Right after I changed my radiator fan, the AC worked for a day. Next day passenger side was blowing hot. Today I replaced the driver side actuator, thinking that’s why it’s hot/cold, the clicking stopped but it still blow hot on passenger side.
Thanks for the help! Life saver my dude!
No problem. Glad to hear it helped!
EXTREMELY helpful, thank you!!!!
Glad to hear it helped!
Great video. Helped me a lot. Thank you!!
Are those 2 Actuators on the passenger side the same ? So if you dont recalibrate Properly will they start messn up again ?
They are the same, and it’s a good idea to calibrate them.
Are the left and right actuators the same parts numbers
Yes, they are the same. And this car has four of them, so I hope you're only having to replace one.
Your instructions were perfect. Only suggestion I have is to use a "thumb wheel ratchet drive to get the screws out. Chevy should be ashamed at the maintainability design. They must want to
increase the time to repair for their dealers.
This clicking problem is in our 2013 Impala with 137,000 miles. We only use that car for local errands. My question is: In time will the clicking just go away? Thanks
How hard is it to put the glove box back on?
I isn't bad at all, and actually easier than taking it off. The pins slide back in easily with the help of a slotted screwdriver.
@@HowSkills I didn't end up removing the glove box BUT thank you so much for this video! I was able to fix my husbands blend door so my daughter and I have heat now! :) Now onto the next issue with the car!
I replaced two of mine a year ago,the drivers side and the left one behind the glove box.
Today the right one behind the glove box started clicking.
The first two I just reached up and grabbed the shaft on the vent door and turned it all the way forward to align it so the actuator went on,no need to power up the actuator to align it.
Nice...sounds like great advice to me!
@@HowSkills I did put in the actuator this past weekend and I just flipped the door to the open position and the actuator lined right up.
They already come set out of the box in the right position so just flip the door to the other position if it doesn't line up.
It worked on all three for me.
Instead of trying to remove the glove box pins, just remove the 4 phillips screws and the 3 7/64 hex screws for the handle, and take the box part off. Much easier.
I did that.
No, no it's not. Removing the glove box door is just LITERALLY removing 2 pins. Don't disassemble more than you need to. I've replaced passenger side actuators 4 times. I say this from experience.
So it’s a two key turn not just the one right?
Actually, yes.
amazing video! Thank you very much!!
Thanks! I hope it helped.
Man, I have two actuators that are doing it. How do you get to the other one? CD player maybe?
There are three on the right side that you can get to through the glove box. The other is on the driver’s side - is that the one that’s making the noise?
@@HowSkills How difficult is the driver side one? I was under the impression I was gonna have to take the dash off to get to the left side one. I've seen someone say its under the cover of the drivers side and you change it there much like you did this one with the glove box covering the opening.
What obd 2 scan tool did you use to recalibrate the motors? I'm having a hard time finding one that can do that.
Stan, I opened the fault actuator and it is the same gear they sell on line for $12.99. Other gears look fine. Is it worth it? I understand it isn't worth it for the actuator that goes behind the radio, but the other two (passenger outer one, and driver side) aren't that bad to replace. It's a shame no one makes a metal or tougher nylon gear set.
I have never tried that, but it sounds like it would be worth it. That gear going bad is the main problem with this part, and it apparently isn't designed with long life in mind. I'm like you...I wish someone would made a sturdier gear set. Not the best design, Chevrolet!
@@HowSkills I call it actuator insurance. With a spare one ready to go, there will never be another failure!
I been putting this off for 2yrs now wish me luck
Is there one for each side
There are actually four altogether on this vehicle…three on the right side behind the glove box, and one on the driver’s side under the steering column.
@@HowSkills I did the one on driver's side because it would blow cold but hot on passenger side know it opposite hot driver side cold passenger side so which one do I replace on passenger side? I don't have clicking noise
So is just 3 actuators in this type of impalas?
There are actually four actuators: three behind the glove compartment and one on the driver's side. That's true for models with Dual Zone controls.
@@HowSkills thanks , actually I just changed the driver side and passenger and was just as easy. Thank you very much for this video, you're the best 👍
my 2014 impala lt doesnt have the clicking noise but instead does not blow air through any vents besides the defrost and does not respond to changing vents, would this be related to the actuator?
Yes, it's very likely that one of the actuators isn't working correctly and is stuck in one position.
@@HowSkills I think this is my problem. My passenger side heat works ok but the driver side is cold. But I do not hear any clicking noises.
Thank you for sharing.
You're welcome, and I hope it helped.
@@HowSkills yes sir.
Would that drain the battery
On its own, it wouldn’t normally drain the battery. It might slightly increase the drain on the battery, but that would only be when the ignition was turned on and electricity was flowing, and the alternator should be able to keep the battery sufficiently charged when the engine is running.
Does powering the new actuator up so as to line up the slot of the old actuator create a problem?
It didn't. Everything seemed to work fine doing it that way, and no problems have come up since the installation. Works great!
Hey Steve,
My motor on the actuator stopped working so I don't know which one it is. How can I tell? I guess by testing them one by one huh?
The ones on the right behind the glove box are fairly close to each other and you can normally isolate which one is the problem. There's one that's flat against the left side of the glove box area and one that's mounted up and to the right side as in this video. Since the actuator isn't making noise, take turns placing your fingers on the two actuators that are out in the open as you move the heating/cooling controls. If the actuator is good, you should be able to feel a movement or vibration in it. If you go through the full range of temperature settings and you feel nothing from the actuator, then that's probably the bad one.
@@HowSkills thanks for the info. I really appreciate your support. #youaretheman!
No problem...glad to help!
Great video!
I hope it helped…thanks for watching!
Great video
Well done job
Thank you, and I appreciate you taking the time to watch.
Very informative ty
My 2014 Impala isn’t making a clicking noise, but when the AC runs, it will randomly start blowing really hot air on the driver side only. The only thing I’ve had work so far is unplugging the HVAC fuse, or turning my AC completely off for over a day. Any tips for repair? I don’t want to take apart my car for it not to be the actuator.
What was it? I changed my driver side actuator but it’s still blowing hot on passenger side
Do you have a video on how to do the driver side??? Please help!!!
Mine did not come recalibration instructions. Is it necessary?
Many times it's not, but if you find that the actuator isn't working correctly, then you should try the calibration technique.
The part in the video can also be bought at walmart. Thanks for the vid.
My ac blows on driver side while the heat blows on passenger side, no clicking knocking. Would this part be the problem
Yes, it could still be related to an actuator failure. A lot of times when one goes bad, there is a distinctive clicking noise, but not always. A bad actuator would be my first guess.
Damn what was it bro?
@@TILIS214 it ended up being of 2 these actuators
Good video!
Can anyone tag a link that explains about recalibration for these things. I have replaced all 3 and I'm still getting that tapping on my driver's side.
Thanks in advance
great video, I have to replace the one on the left,
I hope this helped. Thanks for watching.
My daughter got one of these 2008 Impalas as a first car. The blend door actuator was making the ticking sound. We replaced it. It now opens and closes the blend door, but thwacks the door closed for another 30 seconds after reaching the closed position. Thump, thump, thump, it beats the door like its a drummer in a bad bar band. Same thing happens when it opens the blend door. Reaches the fully open position and then thump, thump, thump, repeatedly tries to open it again like it doesn't realize it is already open. What can we do to correct this other than leave the actuator disconnected?
Sounds like it may not be calibrated. Try this advice from an online forum: disconnect the negative battery terminal for five minutes, then reconnect it. Start the car and do not touch the HVAC controls. The HVAC system will perform a self-calibration which takes about two minutes. During this time you may hear the controls moving and activating if you are seating inside the car.
Do this first before removing the new part or disconnecting it.
@@HowSkills Thanks very much for the reply Stan. Here is a video of my problem: ua-cam.com/video/F9p3YtjNWSs/v-deo.html
I tried to re-calibrate it by turning the fan off (to zero), turning off the car, pulling the DISPLAY fuse, waiting 10 minutes, then replacing the fuse, then putting the car into accessory mode, waiting 5 minutes and then starting the car. Seems to have made no difference.
Is there a micro-controller that might need replacement? Would I need to clear any diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) beforehand for the re-calibration to be effective? I don't have an OBD tool. Would having an OBD tool be necessary to clear the DTCs and force the re-calibration? If so, do you have one to recommend?
Thanks again.
I'm doing the manual calibration right now and when it's time to take the key out and then, connect the negative battery cable, I can't even get the key out of the ignition..... it's locked in position as soon as I turn it to the "on" position.
That’s okay…the calibration should work anyway, as the battery being disconnected for a length of time is the main thing that matters.
OK thank you. Is the actuator supposed to be plugged in during all of this? Or does it need to calibrate, then plug it in? Sorry if that sounds stupid, I tried it last night a few times and it just continously clicks everytime after I follow the calibration steps (with it plugged in).
I have a question would that makes my car run hot?
If the blend door actuator wasn't working correctly it could make the temperture of the air coming out of your vents hotter.
@@HowSkills but would make my waters residue boil hot and spill it?
Thxs good video but after I did all that in the video my driver side vents still blow hot air n passenger ice cold
There is also an actuator for the driver’s side so it possibly may need replaced too. It’s located under the steering column area. This vehicle has four actuators altogether, which is a pain, since they apparently weren’t engineered for longevity.
@@HowSkills ok so I replaced all 4 blend door actuators...nothing hot air still out the drivers side ......had my ac vacuum and recharged it to specs.....nothing I over filled it and it started blowing a little bit cold passenger's side ice cubes fall out of that side what gives?.??
Thank you!
You're welcome, and I hope it helped. And if you're having to do this repair, you have my sympathy!