Factory Five 33 Hot Rod V2 Build - Hard Top Prep
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- Опубліковано 26 тра 2020
- Street Rod Jim's hard top for his Factory Five 33 Hot Rod V2 throws a little curve ball. Factory Five 33 Hot Rod V2 Required Supplies bit.ly/SRJ33supplies
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Factory Five Body Work, Paint and Lizard Skin bit.ly/SRJlizard
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LS Engine External Performance Parts bit.ly/SRJperformance
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Street Rod Jim is a channel about maintaining, building and appreciating cars. Jim is currently researching and building a Factory Five 33 Hot Rod V2 kit car and will be showing the process as he goes.
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I did chassis #99, an early kit. From my experience, 65% of the project is body work. I did much of the rough body work, door hanging and latching, top fitting, trunk lid, hood and side panel fitting etc but then contracted out the finish body work and paint. I also had a glass guy come in and do the windshield and rear window.
I kept a journal and it took approximately 1000 hours to get that far. I was shocked at the cost of paint materials. The finish body work and paint came to over $6500 for a single color nonmetallic paint job and that is cheap by today’s standards. My project started in August ‘09 and finished in Spring of 2015. Total cost back then was $45k with a crate 347ci 425hp stroker and Tremec 5 speed. Finished weight was just under 2200 lbs dry.
Since then I upgraded to a Holley Sniper efi. That turned out to be a project as the top had to come off for fuel tank mods as well as replumbing the entire fuel system and sorting out the fuel maps and adding the correct distributor so the Sniper controls timing.
I get tired just thinking about it🤗
Yeah, doing a repair means take the whole car apart.
I have to say, I think the car looks great and the roof really sets it off . You will find as you start removing any lumps and bumps it begins to align better. Also when you begin to bolt it down it will set into place properly
Damn putting that on now I can really see how low it is looks so small
Is this a repeat? Love the build.
Redo. All this isolation has made me drop the ball on editing.
The body is tied down ok so I expect that you will need to do what I had to do. Get the back mount the way you want, drill and attach securely. Then you can persuade the front corners into place with some creative use of straps. Then drill the front mounts. Once it is in place, set it out in the sun for a bit and it will adjust to the correct location. The top has a lot more flex than the body.
It may be time to call the traveler
What happened?? Is it summer rerun time?? Lol
Not that I could have done it better, but I believe your problem is that you have kinks in the vertical and horizontal planes of your bodywork. In the horizontal plane, your firewall seems to be the high point, throwing off the alignment of your side panels. The other problem seems to be that your door openings, at least at the top, are not equal leading to the door opening on the passenger side not matching the profile of the roof. I believe you should have assembled the body parts on the naked frame and braced them or taken reference dimensions before you did anything else. The body is what most people see FIRST, giving it the highest priority, so it should dictate what lies beneath it!!!
Not so much on the problem. I agree that the body is the first thing people will see. I originally wanted to do the body work first, but was discouraged from doing so. Since I have never built one of these before, I agree with that assessment due to how much stuff depends on other stuff. Doing the body work first would have been a shot in the dark for what was coming down the pike later. However, I think I picked the sweet spot. I got all the mechanical side figured out. Understand the interactions and then stopped to do body work before electrical etc.. Of course if I built another one, I would be able to start in any order and I would chose to do body work first, make a mess and then a clean build.