2010 Nissan Xterra Front Brake Pad Replacement (Rotor, Disc, Disk, Breaks)
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2024
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Products used in this video include:
Amsoil Metal Protector
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Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector
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Amsoil Brake and Parts Cleaner
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Wheel Chocks
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Safety Stands
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Front Disc Brake Pads
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The quality of this video is world class. The illustrations and explanations are 👌
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
I’ve been doing my brakes wrong for years. I was removing the entire caliper. I’m glad I watched this. Next time will be a LOT easier.
Good quality explanation of how to. Good work, I’ll be undertaking this here later this week. Also will be painting the brake caliper to give it new life and give it the rust and dirt protection it needs. Appreciate the vid thanks man!
Thanks for the comment. How did the repair go?
Jon Olson so I’ve replaced the inner/outer tie rod on driver side, replaced upper control arm, sway bar end links, and am currently trying to figure out how to get the lower ball joint off the control arm, I’ve sprayed tons of liquid wrench and have the nut loosened, but the actual bolt is just so tight or stuck in the pinch joint, I need to get that lower ball joint replaced and the driver side will be done.. every single bolt was so tight and almost impossible to remove, whomever last serviced the vehicle must have used way too much high strength thread lock because I literally had to stand on my breaker bar to get inner tie rod loose as well as the 32mm nut on the axle.. never had such a hard time removing any bolt or nut like I have with this vehicle. Waiting on cross drilled rotors and high quality carbon ceramic pads.. also, the old rotor I had to take a mini sledge to get it to budge, I’m assuming no grease was used from hub assembly to back of rotor.. did you take your rotors to just a big box auto part store to have them turn the rotors? How much did they cost to turn and was it worth turning vs getting new slotted vented rotors?
671
Why did you not service the caliper slide pins? They need removal, inspection, cleaning ( bore and pin ), replace if damaged, replace protective rubber bellows, then assemble with proper lubricant that will not damage the bellows or the rubber rings found on the slide pins.
You were very liberal with Amsoil spray lube. Does it have ill effects on rubber products?
Failing to service the slide pins can cause the pins to seize. Poor braking will follow along with poor brake pad wear ( uneven ).
Torque wrench should be used upon assembly...With correct torque.
Hope this helps...671
I agree with you that the caliper slide pins should be serviced. Amsoil does not have an ill effect on rubber products. Always torque to specs.
you forgot to put lube on the new brake hardware and on the backs of the brake pads and you need to service the caliper pins to no lube on the pads will cause brake squeal and not lubing the pins will cause uneven pad ware
Agreed. Always lube your hardware.
Thanks for explaining this so clearly!
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
sir how to bleed the vehicle prior to diriving like what you said
Both my fronts only had 1 brake pad spring and both were on bottom location. Even shop manual showed only 1 spring on each. I did not put a second spring on each.
Guys, they are called brakes, not breaks. BTW that thing on the front of a Glock slide is called a sight, not site.
Agreed. Hence why I spelled both versions in the title of the video...so even poor spellers could find my video.
You are wrong and don’t know what you are doing. No need to bleed brakes when replacing pads unless there is an issue such as air in them. You will make a mess! Simple: (1) Remove the cap of the brake reservoir (2) Remove brake callipers (3) Use a clamp to back in the calliper pistons (4) remove and replace old brake pads (5) re-install callipers with pads (6) re-install brake reservoir cap (7) re-install wheels (8) Give brakes paddle a few slow pumps, holding it almost down the max on each pump (9) Done!
Best practices.
@@InsaneOil I disagree! If it dont broke, dont fix it. Beeding brakes is a measure done when needed. In the case of changing pads, this is not needed unless your fluid went low. Your way is poor.
@@jasonstocks6460 If you don't open the bleeder screw when depressing the caliper piston, you are pushing old, dirty brake fluid back through your lines. This can lead to ABS Pump failure on some vehicles. Thus, best practices, when changing pads, open the bleeder screw to discharge any contaminated brake fluid and reduce the chance of it causing other problems. Since the bleeder screw is open, you have now introduced air into the lines...hence bleeding the brakes.
@@InsaneOil I'd take your word for it.
Why not bleed the line? Why skit a step that takes minutes to prevent a possible issue down the road? Everyone doesn’t have the time to do it right the first time, but they always have the time to fix their mistakes..
Good job
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
I changed the back breaks and disc and the breaks locked in what can I do
Were you able to find a solution?
Sir you obviously don't live up in the NorthEast ↗️ or by the ocean cuz I don't see really any RUST just did my brake's today on my 08 Xterra I had to heat the hell outta them 19mm bolt's 🔩🔩 on both sides & they finally budged OUT 😖✊✊✊✊!!
Nebraska here.
How much is Amsoil paying you my friend?
Amsoil doesn’t pay me to do these videos but I am an Independent Amsoil Dealer and use these videos to help my customer group learn about their vehicles and become more knowledgeable consumers.
Might want to think about covering your hands
Agreed. Always good to wear gloves.