I was adjusting valves on my 2001 crv yesterday.. # 4 intake jam nut was giving me some problems..probably gave it a bit too much, and the whole rocker popped out from under the camshaft! Hopefully this video will help me loosen things up to get it back in! You do great work, man.. you've definitely helped me keep my old dog on the road the last 5 years..
Great idea, but I didn't. I'm not trying to do much more to this motor. Want to get it running before march and just enjoy it at the track for the 6 events this year, fingers crossed!
dude i just bought a 99 integra gs for $500 as a project from the acution it started overheating on the way home I checked cylinder 1 and it looked a little milky I found gallon jugs of water in the trunk that was a dead giveaway and all other signs point to headgasket. Im tackling it this weekend and ill be watching this to make sure I am on point thanks bro!
@@GarageBuiltHondas Do I HAVE YO! re adjust the valves for sure or could iIget away with just resurfacing the head and using the arps? The car was over heating nasty!
You need to adjust them. It's really not that difficult, it can seem intimidating but it's well worth it. You'll lose power and MPG's if they aren't adjusted properly.
This is by far the best video on the disassembly on the B20. I plan to do my Teggy B18B1 for the first time. Kinda nervous. I am just a little iffy on the TDC... Question once you have it on TDC you dont have to worry about it moving or anything while you work on disassembly?
Everyone asks about the intake bolts. I left the lower ones attached and pulled the head up after unbolting it and was able to reach under to remove the lower nuts on the intake.
I'll have them done in the next video, but I also made this video last year if you want to check it out. ua-cam.com/video/_Ni5YkrEw5w/v-deo.html&lc=z12mjrtixujlyd23a23ycr5obmjegtdee
@7:18 You talk about getting those intake manifold bolts and nuts off. Wow, the lower ones are insanely difficult to remove, unless one dismantles the entire intake area and below? Just curious as I'm stuck at that point, with 3 bolts under the manifold (and maybe 2 more!) that i can't reach!
I used a 12" extension with my ratchet from the top, and also a bend extension from under the car with a 6" extension. That bend extension made it a lot easier.
Leave the intake manifold on!! Remove it with the head, so much easier. You will need to remove a few bolts from the intake manifold support bracket. They are fairly easily accessible from the top of the engine, although first you may want to lay underneath and look up with a flashlight to see exactly where their at. Some models have different support brackets. My 98 CRV only had 2 bolts here. Also, install the head with intake manifold attached.
I got to the cams and took them off today off my 88 prelude si the exhaust stuff and I take is what I gotta take off I just don’t wanna get under it cuz it’s been sitting and I seen a few black widows sitting around it lol
You are amazing Garage Built Hondas. I have one more question that lingers in my head before I start. Is it necessary to remove the other belts besides timing belt like the air conditioning belt, alternator belts and all the pulleys?
Jon Widmer: excellent work, as before. I hope you keep making vids for a long, long time. I still have the stock D-series in my Si, but if it ever goes, I will consider going B20. I had been thinking B16 or even B18, but now I am kind of on the fence, after watching what you have been able to do here. Would you recommend the B20 over the other 2? Is the SOHC design of the B16s and B18s, inherently more durable, due to having fewer moving parts? I have heard that the VTEC engines are slightly less robust, because of said issue. And, I assume that SOHC is way easier to work on, than DOHC.
B20/B18 Non-V are both very similar, but the B20 is still a stronger engine of the 2. The B16 is torqueless but a very fun motor that loves to rev! All 3 are great upgrades over the sohc engines. The least expensive route would be the b20 swap. If you live in an area where they have an engine importer, they can be bought for between $375-$425. That's a steal for such a stout engine. I personally love the b20, even much more than the B18 that I used to have in here. It's quick, pulls hard and is super fun to drive!
Nice video and great explanation, it don't even seem that hard to do so I'm more confident now to doing it myself. I think I got a bent valve on cylinder 1 and/or 2 on my swapped B18B1 Civic coupe. I got a couple of questions though. 1. You don't need to put the motor at TDC when removing the head? I noticed that you didn't mention that. 2. Did you really have to take off the cams and rocker arms just to remove the head? 3. When the head is off, do I need to resurface it? I got a new head gasket and ARP head studs ready on standby.
Thanks! 1. No you do not, you will be setting it at TDC when you re-install it. 2. Yes, you cannot get to the head bolts without removing them unfortunately. 3. It is highly recommended to eliminate any imperfections. I did not resurface the head when I first installed this a year before this video and the head gasket lasted only 1 year. It seems to be running great so far with no issues at all. Resurfacing is pretty inexpensive also. The resurface was only $65, I paid another $40 to have the head and all of the parts acid dipped so they would all be very clean when re-installing.
Hey, thanks for the reply. 1. Ok cool, I always thought you had to do that because I was gonna make a mark on my belt for insurance. 2. I don't even know why I asked this question cause I was reading it in my manual and there's no way around it, I had a dumb moment. Lol. 3. Really? I actually bought my car swapped already and whoever did the work did a damn good job, I've only had to change out a few things like my radiator (half-size dual core aluminum), clutch (stage 2 competition clutch), tires (205/50 R15 Hankook Ventus V2 Concept 2 H457), motor mounts (Yonaka), power steering pump, battery (Yellow-top Optima) and valve cover gasket. Other than that it's never gave me any problems since I've owned it for the past 3 years, so I'm guessing my head is ok? Besides the bent valve. I do know that it does burn oil, but I'm pretty sure it's my valve stem seals. 1. When they acid dipped it was the head completely apart?
Hey, once again thanks for the video, I'm actually in the process of doing it myself and so far so good. Even though it's taking me all day. Lol. But I did noticed that you forgot to mention that the timing tension adjuster has a plug over the cover. I was trying to find that 14mm bolt for the longest until I realized that I had a plug sitting there. I pulled it out and bam, a freshly looking bolt is just sitting there, like it never been touched. Also, I'm having a bit trouble of getting my intake off. I got all the bolts out, except 1 (9/10) that I can not reach to save my life. It's the furthest one near the dizzy on the bottom. How did you get that off? But thanks once again, I done called it a day for now all I got to do is get that one bolt out from the intake and take out my head studs
bman409 I thought I replied to your last comment right away, it must have not posted, my bad! My head wasn't completely disassembled. The valves were still installed with the retainers/springs/keepers but it was all nice and clean everywhere. The bolts by the distributor, I used a wrench to knock both of those off. I can't seem to get a ratchet/socket on those so it's always a wrench. You're talking about the ones closest to the thermostat housing?
I'm talking about bolt #10, as you pointed out in your video @ 7:53 - 7:59, on the intake manifold. How did you get to it? I got the 9 other ones out, but not that one. The dizzy was easy to take off. Lol. I got most of the work done, I just need to get the head studs off and my spark plugs out and I can pull the head. I'm having a bit trouble with the head studs though, maybe cause I'm not using a breaker bar? I have a impact wrench but that's no good either, I got a Ryobi one.
Finally in the step of removing the intake as per your recommendations, but worried about a rocker arm that cracked, if I buy it and replace it is it still necessary to keep the order of all the other working rocker arms in their respective positions? also other two where found out of their position and I am unsure where is the place they belong to. Thanks always ! Have some other questions on this interesting matters, happy to have your help on my first head removal.
Just found your great video.1995 honda odysssey broke timi ng belt on hwy. Towed home gonna pull head and do the same. This is a 1st for me.did leak down no go bent valves and more? Don't know till I pull head. Honda has 295,241 miles on it. Debating on repair or scrapping. May repair if pistons and rest of block looks ok. I'm retired so I have the time. Have a great day
Fine Job...Excellent. I have a 1998 Honda CRV (177700 miles) .. the oil cap has a milky residue, but the radiator cap has none, nor does the dipstick show any residue. what could be the problem.. the coolant level is in the reservoir has dropped only little over a long time. IS IT THE HEAD GASKET ?
Sounds like it. Usually the milky residue is a result of oil/water mixture. Check the exhaust, if you can smell some coolant in the mixture of exhaust fumes then you'll now for sure.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Dammit.. Can a novice do this? I change oil and stuff by myself.. im a college student .. dont have 1000 dollars for a head gasket job.
It might be a little tricky as a novice. If you're mechanically inclined you may be able to get it done for about $300 maybe. That would include parts and the price of a resurfaced head job.
Jon, I'm about to pull the head on my D16A6 in my 89 CRX si and wanted to ask you a question before I get started please. Is it easier to pull this head with the intake attached or would it be easier to separate the intake and tie it back out of the way? Thanks for all you do for the Honda community!!!! Greg
The top ones I used just an assortment of ratchets and some wrenches. The bottom, I got a couple from underneath the car by using some 6" extensions and the extensions that bend at the joint letting you get to it at a different angle.
That tensioner bolt @9:48 is different on my 00' CRV with a B20 non-vtec. It's super easy for you to get, but mine is notoriously difficult to reach. I took off one of the camshafts with the cam gear and angled it whilst slipping the timing belt on the cam gears. Then bolted down the holders.. I hope the timing is right? I tried to keep the crankpulley at tdc but it moved whilst i was putting the belt/camshaft on... advice? ideas?
Power steering belt and pump is off. AC and alternator belts and pulleys are still on. I managed to reach that adjusting bolt! I loosened it, put the belt on with cams and crank at TDC, then tightened the bolt, and everything seems to be good! I only hope the tension is properly set. I turned the crank several times and everything seems to be lining up! For awhile I was trying to loosen and tighten the adjusting bolt a few times with no increase in tension in the belt. Then, I fiddled with it for a while longer and managed to get the belt on the cams with the crank and cams at TDC...then tightened the adjusting bolt. Hope it works out. I'm on to the valve adjustment, then downhill from there! Thanks for your help
+Unlimited Potential awesome! If you cranked it a handful of times and it still lines up correctly you should be fine. I do the exact same thing after I have tightened the tensioner. Good luck with the valve adjustment, let me know how it goes after the initial start!
hi, at 4.38 in theres 2 sensors and coolant port in line,what is the one in the middle.i was taking the head off today and bust that.i dont know what to call it to order one.thanks in advance for your help.cheers,Dave
Hey! I painted my valve cover the same colour! How much did it cost for the machine shop work? I’m thinking that next time pick n pull has a fifty percent off sale I’ll go and pull a head as a “backup”. I could get it cleaned and machined if I want to use it.
Don't need to take to a machine shop Nfast lane used a scotch bright (plastic) with gasoline to remove any leftovers of head gasket on it. In the beginning I was like wtf, but afterwards I saw the result it was really good( you don't damage the block/head because it's aluminum and save lot of money)
@@GarageBuiltHondas yes but afterwards he uses a machined piece of straight steel and checks for the gaps on the sleeve and block if is over 2 thousends with the tool of checking valve gap (sorry for my English but hope you understand what the tool I'm saying)
Also, one thing I was worried about with the B20, as opposed to the B16 (let's say): our cars were designed for 1.6 litre engines, and they handle like, "God's own chariot," as someone else has put it. Would cramming a 2.0 L engine into the car, make it handle any worse...even a little bit?
On your stock suspension the front end may dive a little more, but the engine/transmission combo only weighs about 150lbs extra total. If you ever lower your car with the stiffer springs and/or upgraded shocks, you will offset the weight with that upgrade.
Are you going to use oem seals or an aftermarket seal kit? Just wondering if you have used an aftermarket gasket kit before and if it was worth the money.
Yes, I'm using a Supertech MLS headgasket and valve stem seals. I'll be using OEM camshaft seals, valve cover gasket, and spark plug tube seals. You'll see it in my next video.
Jon Widmer , awesome. Reason I'm asking is because guy at work snapped his timing belt on his DA. Think I might pick it up and get the head sent out just .
U have to have new ones, ARP is a good brand. But I’m using apex gasket set/head bolts. Only because I’m going to do a full rebuild in a couple months and just need it running for right now.
Jon Widmer ay Jon in my intake throttle body it has two sensor one on top and one on the side of it towards the fire wall when I do a mpfi swap will I need to plug in both of them or what it's a po6 intake I think it make out of a 1992 Honda Civic me and the other Bernie are the same people lol and thx for answering my dumb questions
I've heard it's recommended to change some seals as well whenever that deep into the block. What seals would be changed? Sorry if your already said it in the video
Awesome! but there are no sensors in that system as the book for my CRV asks to remove a bunch of them, as well as the injectors and many other stuff. Its the same?
Those small bits aren't a big deal. The jist of it is covered. If a small rubber cap is too difficult to figure out for someone then they probably would be better off taking the car to someone who can do the work for them.
I wanna be a mechanic but since I dont have any experience getting deep into the engine, I can't afford messing it up cuz I ain't got money to buy another 'cheap' car. I'm so broke😭
I'm pulling the head on my B20 CRV engine. How were you able to access the lower bolts on the intake manifold? Looks like I'm going to have to pull the manifold with the head.
I couldn't see any signs of where it was failing. The head gasket was an eBay brand and it lasted for the last year and I beat on it every time I drove the car. It could have been a number of factors though, probably the main one being just throwing the head into the block without having it resurfaced. We'll see if the new gasket holds up!
Sorry to bother once again, looks like I only trust you!!!! one last question. Is it a must to remove the Head in my situation or not? or should I just buy a Rocker Arm that minimally on a corner cracked, replace it, position on their places the two that went away from their position, set the belt on time once again and start the car? Removing the head only to see if there is a problem with a valve? My situation was that the car wont start , opened the valve cover and discovered three Rocker Arms out of place and a set of valve keepers out of place as well. No overheating on the car, this happened a day after a motor cleanup but lt looks like it has nothing to do with that. Really thankfull with you from here in Panamá City!
You probably bent some valves unfortunately. I had the same thing happen to me. A rocker arm wasn't in place and I started the car and it bent the valve. Luckily it didn't puncture the piston.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Thanks! you are once again right! looks like varnish in one intake valve, just got it replaced in the car shop. The guy says its probably a gasoline degradation as the car was parked unused for months. Now with the intake out I see your video about replacing all the cooling system hoses and many other things that can be done to take advantage of the disassemble, also cleaning extreme carbon bulidup inside the intake. Thanks godsent intelligent sir.
Quick question gotta get the concept:So when pulling the head Taking off the dizzy, timing belt, etc 1st cylinder doesnt have to be tdc...dizzy firing on 1
Shot out! Also Intake manifold and oem bracket: to get the bottom bolts off it's an under or over job...(so the steer rack is not in the way) also do you have to bleed the fuel system (injector are apart of the manifolds anatomy)
+settripsbunch For the bracket, it's a lot easier from under. And there is no bleeding of any part of the fuel system. You may want to bleed the coolant system once you have refilled it and are getting any air out of the system.
Have another question for you..what if there is slight variance mic-ing the block .002 in some areas to .0035 Will one have to get the block resurfaced? Or will a headgasket and sealant work? The situation For 1 I broke the belt...2. When driving in the mountains dropping thousands of feet the engine would get cold and blow white smoke heavy out the exhaust...no bubbles in the radiator...but it would overheat on inclines at idle...sidenote engine fan is hooked up to a switch. What you think?
@GBH I noticed you didn’t set the cams on top dead center, is it necessary to do so? I plan on doing the same process on mine plus changing the water pump. Any input helps thanks!
I didn't. I went ahead and just retimed the engine. You can set if before ever taking it apart. It will help, but it's not a necessity if you're confident you can set timing.
Do you have to make sure it's in top dead center before removing the timing belt? I'm gonna try this on my b18 but I'm no mechanic. Any advice would be great!
hey jon my b20 is the jdm b20b and the website said it has 8.8 compression with 143hp 133tq... so is this the high comp b20. i read somewhere that the true high comp b20 has 9.6 compression
Jon Widmer i dont have the enginge aith me right now and it doesnt state on the website. the thing that confuses me jon is that they advertise it as the jdm b20b/b20z. my block says b20b. they advertise the hogh comp hp and torque... but the comp says 8.8 on their website... so im going to have to call them
Jon Widmer i was freaking out when I saw this. all this money ive spent for all the parts to only have 120hp will not fly with me. id have to build a high comp bottom end for it to be worth my time and money. 11:1
Nathan Rivera agreed. Take a look at the year stamp on the head. There are some importers that try to sell off the low comp engines as high comp to people who don't know the difference.
Hey I have this very same setup on my 99 hatch, I really like it but considered installing a vtec head. You stated you run this hard, what's the horse 🐴 power and MAX RPM we can push this setup to? Will really appreciate your input on this.
Garage Built Hondas I mean the cover that you have for them can you send that link please i also am replacing a blown head gasket for me integra your videos are helping alot thank you
If I were doing the head gasket change on a b18 b1 and wanted to replace the timing belt, would I not have to mark the new belt while the old belt was on? Would this ensure correct orientation of the new belt?
+Justin Beck no, you'll just be resetting timing altogether. I find it more difficult to do it that way. It is 10x easier for me to just reset it when putting it all back together. It might be easier for you that way if you want to do it like that.
When replacing a timing belt on this engine it doesn't matter how or where it's position is(the belt itself) when you install it, it's basically no different than a normal drive belt in terms of that. If you are doing everything correctly, your #1 piston will be a Top Dead Center, therefore the engine is in it's easiest place to find and locate. Why? Because there are marks on your crankshaft and timing cover, that do not change. Also on your camshaft. So if you WERE to disturb timing, you could correct it using these marks. (What marks? "UP" and pointers on camshafts sprockets, and crank keyway and TDC pointer on front of engine.) But, you shouldn't need to. Put #1 at TDC and don't disturb the crank/cams and install your new timing belt according to procedure and you'll be good. The marks that people make on timing belts before removing are only if they are reusing them, so they can slide them back on without having to set the timing. Which the other guy in the comment section said that he prefers to always reset the timing if belt is removed. Either way works if done correctly. Good luck.
Hopefully you respond but, I've removed everything correctly but the head doesn't want to come out it feels like something is holding it down by the intake manifold. Can you help?
My cam caps are completely stuck. I don't think they have ever been removed. Any tips? I don't want to damage them. I've been hitting them pretty hard with a rubber mallet, but it does nothing.
+Brandon Wayne That's definitely an option, I chose to leave it on because I find it easier to just remove all the nuts/bolts holding the intake manifold to the head, rather than removing the throttle cable, all the wiring/sensors connected to it, and also all the coolant lines. Only 10 nuts/bolts compared to all those other parts.
I'm not finding a sequence in my FSM in which order it wants me to remove the cam caps, But I'm thinking it can't be different between B and D series DOHC motors?
Jon Widmer I didn't think of it like that. but I put my 1990 dash in my 1989. I also bought a 1990 si cluster for my 1990 dash and found out that cluster won't work with my cluster harness because of the year difference. I've looked up the diagrams and I think I have the idea of how to do it but wanted to make sure that's how. also where in the cluster does the oil pressure gauge connect? couldn't find it in the diagrams. and how could I get my rpm gauge work or once I get the wiring figured out it will work? sorry a lot of questions..
Possibly B05. Click this link, it has a pin out for where the plug is in a 90-91. Maybe that can help? Hope it points you in the right direction. 0dae2289-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/trevermcdermott/JDMEF9GaugeClusterWiring.pdf?attachauth=ANoY7cqvz4WJT3OSFGHsa8uW8GJKqEeVlZJw7-VQAGYpjE8PRmqzFelysBes0hb5f1h_jAgVR7e9MnfNvSLY4NMCRIn90jZnhUwr7dY__Ft-HwqF_FImLfJaIJGlkR-xELwT87JhjlxZ9iBEqZ8ajKyIbUc1v4YGp2bm4sU1Qlc0_ao4qxu23Q0F_04qE4q9wmnprjKbMkeI81g2IM7s110cucpPcagEnpwwnxn7OV3Hfc3oJH95MTA%3D&attredirects=0
This is only useful if you have a swap or a wire tuck done with 0 accessories. In a stock car theres WAAAAY more crap in the way which adds like 8 more steps
You are an encyclopedia of HONDA knowledge! my friend great work!✌
Appreciate it buddy!!
Been following some of your videos. Very helpful! I'm trying to put a '91 Integra back together that I took apart...17 years ago...
Wow, good luck! You got this!
I was adjusting valves on my 2001 crv yesterday.. # 4 intake jam nut was giving me some problems..probably gave it a bit too much, and the whole rocker popped out from under the camshaft! Hopefully this video will help me loosen things up to get it back in! You do great work, man.. you've definitely helped me keep my old dog on the road the last 5 years..
Glad to help! Good luck finishing it up!
Thanks to you I was able to take apart my b20b motor from a 97crv and take everything I need and more to put into my 01 crv
Thanks for the vid bro
Excellent! You're welcome
where did you get the arp studs for non vtec

I Google shopped it. Can't remember which place I actually ordered it from, whichever was least expensive at the time.
Great video. Just pulled the head off and its the first time I've ever done it
Glad to have been able to help!!!
Thank your for this detailed video, I’m about to start the removal process of my b20 head
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This is convenient cuz I just blew my b18b head gasket
Hope it helps you out!!
Braxton Rosas how did it go bro!
@jaimevalles9763 did he tell u how it went?
If you haven't already you should try and do a basic diy port match and polish.. you can get a bit more flow out of it 🤙🏽
Great idea, but I didn't. I'm not trying to do much more to this motor. Want to get it running before march and just enjoy it at the track for the 6 events this year, fingers crossed!
thank you for being the ultimate honda guru
👍
Well detailed..will help me now as I do a head gasket
Hey I would like to thank you because your guide was very helpful and I am almost done with my 1996 integra
Excellent! You're welcome
Quin howd it go? Was the guide helpful and was there any problems doing it? Im about to replace my head gasket in my 97 integra.
dude i just bought a 99 integra gs for $500 as a project from the acution it started overheating on the way home I checked cylinder 1 and it looked a little milky I found gallon jugs of water in the trunk that was a dead giveaway and all other signs point to headgasket. Im tackling it this weekend and ill be watching this to make sure I am on point thanks bro!
Good luck, hope this video helps!
@@GarageBuiltHondas Do I HAVE YO! re adjust the valves for sure or could iIget away with just resurfacing the head and using the arps? The car was over heating nasty!
You need to adjust them. It's really not that difficult, it can seem intimidating but it's well worth it. You'll lose power and MPG's if they aren't adjusted properly.
Garage Built Hondas just wondering how do they unadjust by removing the head they weren’t ticking at all?
Are you going to take all of the head parts to the shop and have them cleaned/acid dipped?
Thank you so much!!!!!!! You've saved me a lot of time and money
This is by far the best video on the disassembly on the B20. I plan to do my Teggy B18B1 for the first time. Kinda nervous. I am just a little iffy on the TDC... Question once you have it on TDC you dont have to worry about it moving or anything while you work on disassembly?
No. You're all set.
great video good knowledge and about to change my head gasket thumbs up
Thanks
that's a great video. please don't use screwdriver to pry the cam sections. just uses rubber mullet to tap, will dislodge the sections.
Everyone asks about the intake bolts. I left the lower ones attached and pulled the head up after unbolting it and was able to reach under to remove the lower nuts on the intake.
good stuff man like the way you keep those 90,91 civics alive man . i enjoy the vids do mor track videos
Soon man, march 18th is the first track day at ASR for me!! I'm trying to get ready for it!
excellent work with these videos, very helpful thank you, keep it up!
You're welcome
looking forward to your video on putting in the new valve stem seals! (I will have to do the same real soon too :)
I'll have them done in the next video, but I also made this video last year if you want to check it out.
ua-cam.com/video/_Ni5YkrEw5w/v-deo.html&lc=z12mjrtixujlyd23a23ycr5obmjegtdee
great video, 4 people do not understand mechanics.
+John Spratley thanks!
Thanks so much for this video bro! Subscribed!
@7:18 You talk about getting those intake manifold bolts and nuts off. Wow, the lower ones are insanely difficult to remove, unless one dismantles the entire intake area and below?
Just curious as I'm stuck at that point, with 3 bolts under the manifold (and maybe 2 more!) that i can't reach!
I used a 12" extension with my ratchet from the top, and also a bend extension from under the car with a 6" extension. That bend extension made it a lot easier.
Nice! I managed to get the intake manifold off! Thanks.
Leave the intake manifold on!! Remove it with the head, so much easier. You will need to remove a few bolts from the intake manifold support bracket. They are fairly easily accessible from the top of the engine, although first you may want to lay underneath and look up with a flashlight to see exactly where their at. Some models have different support brackets. My 98 CRV only had 2 bolts here. Also, install the head with intake manifold attached.
Amazing content as usual
Very nice video , thanks , I'll be doing my b18 91' acura Integra
Awesome, glad to help! Thanks for commenting!
Bro this video was everything but I don't know to get to intake manifold brackets because mine is OEM 😪
Great video as always! Quick question about the s2 half sized radiator, did you have to modify the hood to make clearance for the cap?
Nice can't wait for the next video
Soon, hope this clunker is running by the end of the week!!
I got to the cams and took them off today off my 88 prelude si the exhaust stuff and I take is what I gotta take off I just don’t wanna get under it cuz it’s been sitting and I seen a few black widows sitting around it lol
Get some bug/spider spray and get to work!
You are amazing Garage Built Hondas. I have one more question that lingers in my head before I start. Is it necessary to remove the other belts besides timing belt like the air conditioning belt, alternator belts and all the pulleys?
Power steering for sure, might be able to get away with the other 2 though not needing to be removed.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Thanks Jon... you are good at this hope ur not too bothered on my questions
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love your vids man keep it up !
Thanks Carlos!
great vid man.
I like the subs lol when he starts the engine u can hear the exhaust and the caption says "Music" 🤣🤣🤣
Haha
Thanks for the help. Just picked up a 92 integra sedan with a b18b1! Motor doesnt run guy said it needs headwork but didnt really know i guess
Jon Widmer: excellent work, as before. I hope you keep making vids for a long, long time. I still have the stock D-series in my Si, but if it ever goes, I will consider going B20. I had been thinking B16 or even B18, but now I am kind of on the fence, after watching what you have been able to do here. Would you recommend the B20 over the other 2? Is the SOHC design of the B16s and B18s, inherently more durable, due to having fewer moving parts? I have heard that the VTEC engines are slightly less robust, because of said issue. And, I assume that SOHC is way easier to work on, than DOHC.
B20/B18 Non-V are both very similar, but the B20 is still a stronger engine of the 2. The B16 is torqueless but a very fun motor that loves to rev! All 3 are great upgrades over the sohc engines. The least expensive route would be the b20 swap. If you live in an area where they have an engine importer, they can be bought for between $375-$425. That's a steal for such a stout engine. I personally love the b20, even much more than the B18 that I used to have in here. It's quick, pulls hard and is super fun to drive!
Where can I get that plug wire cover I have a b20b and I think it looks great! Thanks for the video.
Nice video and great explanation, it don't even seem that hard to do so I'm more confident now to doing it myself. I think I got a bent valve on cylinder 1 and/or 2 on my swapped B18B1 Civic coupe.
I got a couple of questions though.
1. You don't need to put the motor at TDC when removing the head? I noticed that you didn't mention that.
2. Did you really have to take off the cams and rocker arms just to remove the head?
3. When the head is off, do I need to resurface it? I got a new head gasket and ARP head studs ready on standby.
Thanks!
1. No you do not, you will be setting it at TDC when you re-install it.
2. Yes, you cannot get to the head bolts without removing them unfortunately.
3. It is highly recommended to eliminate any imperfections. I did not resurface the head when I first installed this a year before this video and the head gasket lasted only 1 year. It seems to be running great so far with no issues at all. Resurfacing is pretty inexpensive also. The resurface was only $65, I paid another $40 to have the head and all of the parts acid dipped so they would all be very clean when re-installing.
Hey, thanks for the reply.
1. Ok cool, I always thought you had to do that because I was gonna make a mark on my belt for insurance.
2. I don't even know why I asked this question cause I was reading it in my manual and there's no way around it, I had a dumb moment. Lol.
3. Really? I actually bought my car swapped already and whoever did the work did a damn good job, I've only had to change out a few things like my radiator (half-size dual core aluminum), clutch (stage 2 competition clutch), tires (205/50 R15 Hankook Ventus V2 Concept 2 H457), motor mounts (Yonaka), power steering pump, battery (Yellow-top Optima) and valve cover gasket. Other than that it's never gave me any problems since I've owned it for the past 3 years, so I'm guessing my head is ok? Besides the bent valve. I do know that it does burn oil, but I'm pretty sure it's my valve stem seals.
1. When they acid dipped it was the head completely apart?
Hey, once again thanks for the video, I'm actually in the process of doing it myself and so far so good. Even though it's taking me all day. Lol.
But I did noticed that you forgot to mention that the timing tension adjuster has a plug over the cover. I was trying to find that 14mm bolt for the longest until I realized that I had a plug sitting there. I pulled it out and bam, a freshly looking bolt is just sitting there, like it never been touched.
Also, I'm having a bit trouble of getting my intake off. I got all the bolts out, except 1 (9/10) that I can not reach to save my life. It's the furthest one near the dizzy on the bottom. How did you get that off?
But thanks once again, I done called it a day for now all I got to do is get that one bolt out from the intake and take out my head studs
bman409 I thought I replied to your last comment right away, it must have not posted, my bad!
My head wasn't completely disassembled. The valves were still installed with the retainers/springs/keepers but it was all nice and clean everywhere.
The bolts by the distributor, I used a wrench to knock both of those off. I can't seem to get a ratchet/socket on those so it's always a wrench. You're talking about the ones closest to the thermostat housing?
I'm talking about bolt #10, as you pointed out in your video @ 7:53 - 7:59, on the intake manifold. How did you get to it? I got the 9 other ones out, but not that one.
The dizzy was easy to take off. Lol.
I got most of the work done, I just need to get the head studs off and my spark plugs out and I can pull the head.
I'm having a bit trouble with the head studs though, maybe cause I'm not using a breaker bar? I have a impact wrench but that's no good either, I got a Ryobi one.
Great tutorial.. subbed
Thanks, and welcome! Appreciate it!
Is the steering wheel removal a stock thing? Liking the security bonus there.
always awesome videos
Appreciate the support man!!
Finally in the step of removing the intake as per your recommendations, but worried about a rocker arm that cracked, if I buy it and replace it is it still necessary to keep the order of all the other working rocker arms in their respective positions? also other two where found out of their position and I am unsure where is the place they belong to. Thanks always ! Have some other questions on this interesting matters, happy to have your help on my first head removal.
Rocker arm placement doesn't matter as long as you adjust the valves when reassembling.
Hey bro thanks for sure helped me out
You're welcome
How the H E double hockey stick 🏒s did u get to the bottom of the intake bolts? 😢
U-joints and extensions.
Thanks
Just found your great video.1995 honda odysssey broke timi ng belt on hwy. Towed home gonna pull head and do the same. This is a 1st for me.did leak down no go bent valves and more? Don't know till I pull head. Honda has 295,241 miles on it. Debating on repair or scrapping. May repair if pistons and rest of block looks ok. I'm retired so I have the time. Have a great day
See if the cam/cams spin. If they do then most likely no valves were bent!
Amigo o seu conteúdo é sensacional! Abraço do Brasil!
Hi..I see you have no compressor for the A/C nor a power steering pump..those have to b taken off as well..
Yes
Great vid!
Thanks
Great video!
Did you relieve the fuel pressure from the fuel system before taking stuff off?
Unlimited Potential thanks! No I didn't, I didn't disconnect any fuel lines so none of the fuel came out. You can if you prefer.
Fine Job...Excellent. I have a 1998 Honda CRV (177700 miles) .. the oil cap has a milky residue, but the radiator cap has none, nor does the dipstick show any residue. what could be the problem.. the coolant level is in the reservoir has dropped only little over a long time. IS IT THE HEAD GASKET ?
Sounds like it. Usually the milky residue is a result of oil/water mixture. Check the exhaust, if you can smell some coolant in the mixture of exhaust fumes then you'll now for sure.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Dammit.. Can a novice do this? I change oil and stuff by myself.. im a college student .. dont have 1000 dollars for a head gasket job.
It might be a little tricky as a novice. If you're mechanically inclined you may be able to get it done for about $300 maybe. That would include parts and the price of a resurfaced head job.
Try to find someone to do it locally for a good price.
Does this affect timing? Do I have to line up the guides? 1st time trying to do it
Jon, I'm about to pull the head on my D16A6 in my 89 CRX si and wanted to ask you a question before I get started please. Is it easier to pull this head with the intake attached or would it be easier to separate the intake and tie it back out of the way? Thanks for all you do for the Honda community!!!! Greg
It's easier with. Then you can get to the nuts a lot easier when it's off
@@GarageBuiltHondas Thanks Jon!!!
My socket will not fit inside that small hole for the tensioner. Guess I have to go buy an extra thin walled socket?
very helpful video! btw what size are those tires?
Thanks! 205/50
Wow very nice job, love the videos. If you can get a dual carb ec9 to do some mods, xD ahah. Great chanel.
Thanks for the support, appreciate it!
Really wish you showed yourself removing the intake bolts. I have no clue how to get to mine.
The top ones I used just an assortment of ratchets and some wrenches. The bottom, I got a couple from underneath the car by using some 6" extensions and the extensions that bend at the joint letting you get to it at a different angle.
Hey..is this the same engine as a 97 acura integra ls..non v tech ?
Yes
That tensioner bolt @9:48 is different on my 00' CRV with a B20 non-vtec.
It's super easy for you to get, but mine is notoriously difficult to reach.
I took off one of the camshafts with the cam gear and angled it whilst slipping the timing belt on the cam gears. Then bolted down the holders..
I hope the timing is right? I tried to keep the crankpulley at tdc but it moved whilst i was putting the belt/camshaft on...
advice? ideas?
Unlimited Potential Do you still have the AC and/or power steering belts and pulleys attached?
Power steering belt and pump is off. AC and alternator belts and pulleys are still on.
I managed to reach that adjusting bolt! I loosened it, put the belt on with cams and crank at TDC, then tightened the bolt, and everything seems to be good!
I only hope the tension is properly set. I turned the crank several times and everything seems to be lining up!
For awhile I was trying to loosen and tighten the adjusting bolt a few times with no increase in tension in the belt. Then, I fiddled with it for a while longer and managed to get the belt on the cams with the crank and cams at TDC...then tightened the adjusting bolt.
Hope it works out. I'm on to the valve adjustment, then downhill from there!
Thanks for your help
+Unlimited Potential awesome! If you cranked it a handful of times and it still lines up correctly you should be fine. I do the exact same thing after I have tightened the tensioner. Good luck with the valve adjustment, let me know how it goes after the initial start!
Thanks for your valuable help! Will do!
hi, at 4.38 in theres 2 sensors and coolant port in line,what is the one in the middle.i was taking the head off today and bust that.i dont know what to call it to order one.thanks in advance for your help.cheers,Dave
Hey! I painted my valve cover the same colour!
How much did it cost for the machine shop work? I’m thinking that next time pick n pull has a fifty percent off sale I’ll go and pull a head as a “backup”. I could get it cleaned and machined if I want to use it.
Nice!
$175ish
shit i didnt realize i had to pull the cams to get to the head bolts lol, oh well i was expecting to have to retime it anyhow so no biggie.
👍
Don't need to take to a machine shop Nfast lane used a scotch bright (plastic) with gasoline to remove any leftovers of head gasket on it. In the beginning I was like wtf, but afterwards I saw the result it was really good( you don't damage the block/head because it's aluminum and save lot of money)
I'm not comfortable doing that not being able to measure the micrometer RA (roughness average) that the MLS head gaskets require.
@@GarageBuiltHondas yes but afterwards he uses a machined piece of straight steel and checks for the gaps on the sleeve and block if is over 2 thousends with the tool of checking valve gap (sorry for my English but hope you understand what the tool I'm saying)
I understand. I'd prefer to take it to a machine shop for a much tighter tolerance.
@@GarageBuiltHondas if it is a reputable machine shop I would take it too, but I live in a Island where machine shop are not like top notch
Good luck! 👍
Also, one thing I was worried about with the B20, as opposed to the B16 (let's say): our cars were designed for 1.6 litre engines, and they handle like, "God's own chariot," as someone else has put it. Would cramming a 2.0 L engine into the car, make it handle any worse...even a little bit?
On your stock suspension the front end may dive a little more, but the engine/transmission combo only weighs about 150lbs extra total. If you ever lower your car with the stiffer springs and/or upgraded shocks, you will offset the weight with that upgrade.
Thanks! Awesome info!
On the stop manifold can you get to the bold from the bottom of the car or the top
Either
Are you going to use oem seals or an aftermarket seal kit? Just wondering if you have used an aftermarket gasket kit before and if it was worth the money.
Yes, I'm using a Supertech MLS headgasket and valve stem seals. I'll be using OEM camshaft seals, valve cover gasket, and spark plug tube seals. You'll see it in my next video.
Jon Widmer , awesome. Reason I'm asking is because guy at work snapped his timing belt on his DA. Think I might pick it up and get the head sent out just .
Nice, my install went smooth, cars running great again! The video will be up Sunday if you want to see the Supertech head gasket & stem seals!!
Jon Widmer, I do want to see it. Cars running great again so now we get to see some more track video's!
Absolutely, shooting for the March 18th date!
did you drain the oil as well or just coolant?
Both
ik this is an old video but i’m wondering if the head bolts are reusable in the b18
U have to have new ones, ARP is a good brand. But I’m using apex gasket set/head bolts. Only because I’m going to do a full rebuild in a couple months and just need it running for right now.
Those 2 middle bottom intake manifold bolts are such a pain to get to, I gave up... any tips?
Extensions and u-joints. Gotta be persistent.
Good job
Thanks!
Jon Widmer ay Jon in my intake throttle body it has two sensor one on top and one on the side of it towards the fire wall when I do a mpfi swap will I need to plug in both of them or what it's a po6 intake I think it make out of a 1992 Honda Civic me and the other Bernie are the same people lol and thx for answering my dumb questions
Yes, the TPS is the one on the firewall.
Sorry, I meant on the firewall side, not actually on the firewall.
Any recommendations on removing old stuck head gasket residue off 88crx si? Thank you
None. Get a pack of fresh razor blades and get to work. EF head gaskets are the worst.
I've heard it's recommended to change some seals as well whenever that deep into the block. What seals would be changed? Sorry if your already said it in the video
I didn't touch the block. The seals replaced in the video are necessary as none of them are intended to be re-used.
Awesome! but there are no sensors in that system as the book for my CRV asks to remove a bunch of them, as well as the injectors and many other stuff. Its the same?
It's the same process
@@GarageBuiltHondas thanks , you are inspiring.
We have never had a location in Houston, If you ordered an engine from us it would have been out of Dallas.
+Jdm Alliance Support You're correct, Garland right?
yes.
+Jdm Alliance Support That's where they shipped it from, last March.
My timing tensioner was covered by a tiny rubber cap.
You should get a stock Honda and remake this video.
Those small bits aren't a big deal. The jist of it is covered. If a small rubber cap is too difficult to figure out for someone then they probably would be better off taking the car to someone who can do the work for them.
@@GarageBuiltHondas True. Your video has been very helpful.
Couldn't have done it without you
Ay Jon I bought a intake manifold I got of a 1990 Honda Civic does it fit my 1991 Honda Civic it's a po6 intake
Should I refer to your other comment about the Del sol intake manifold? Yes the p06 intake manifold from the 93-97 Del Sol will work perfect.
I wanna be a mechanic but since I dont have any experience getting deep into the engine, I can't afford messing it up cuz I ain't got money to buy another 'cheap' car. I'm so broke😭
Hope things change for you, all I can say is try to be patient. You'll get there with patience and hard work.
I'm pulling the head on my B20 CRV engine. How were you able to access the lower bolts on the intake manifold? Looks like I'm going to have to pull the manifold with the head.
Extensions and u-joint extensions.
What does the old gasket look like & can you see where it has failed? Could you see any signs of it on the head face?
I couldn't see any signs of where it was failing. The head gasket was an eBay brand and it lasted for the last year and I beat on it every time I drove the car. It could have been a number of factors though, probably the main one being just throwing the head into the block without having it resurfaced. We'll see if the new gasket holds up!
Would you know another brand of good quality head studs much cheaper that arp?
Right here! jhpusa.com/products/power-pros-head-studs-b-k-series?_pos=4&_sid=35c2c5f06&_ss=r
Thank you sir
Sorry to bother once again, looks like I only trust you!!!! one last question. Is it a must to remove the Head in my situation or not? or should I just buy a Rocker Arm that minimally on a corner cracked, replace it, position on their places the two that went away from their position, set the belt on time once again and start the car?
Removing the head only to see if there is a problem with a valve?
My situation was that the car wont start , opened the valve cover and discovered three Rocker Arms out of place and a set of valve keepers out of place as well. No overheating on the car, this happened a day after a motor cleanup but lt looks like it has nothing to do with that. Really thankfull with you from here in Panamá City!
Was the car started or attempted to start before removing the valve cover and seeing the rocker arms out of place?
@@GarageBuiltHondas Yes Sir, multiple times, automatic transmission Honda CRV 2000.
@@GarageBuiltHondas I really appreciate your answer! please reply!
You probably bent some valves unfortunately. I had the same thing happen to me. A rocker arm wasn't in place and I started the car and it bent the valve. Luckily it didn't puncture the piston.
@@GarageBuiltHondas Thanks! you are once again right! looks like varnish in one intake valve, just got it replaced in the car shop. The guy says its probably a gasoline degradation as the car was parked unused for months. Now with the intake out I see your video about replacing all the cooling system hoses and many other things that can be done to take advantage of the disassemble, also cleaning extreme carbon bulidup inside the intake. Thanks godsent intelligent sir.
Kinda random comment for this video, but what kinda camera and microphone are you using in this video?
This right here with the camera mic. No external mic. amzn.to/2FFPagE
whats the end gap for 1st and 2nd piston rings on a 84mm b20v gsr head?
help plz?
Sorry, I don't know that answer. Have you checked the service manual for the b20 block? That should give you the correct gap.
Quick question gotta get the concept:So when pulling the head
Taking off the dizzy, timing belt, etc 1st cylinder doesnt have to be tdc...dizzy firing on 1
+settripsbunch No it does not. You'll be resetting timing completely when reinstalling the head. Cylinder at TDC isn't necessary.
Shot out! Also
Intake manifold and oem bracket: to get the bottom bolts off it's an under or over job...(so the steer rack is not in the way) also do you have to bleed the fuel system (injector are apart of the manifolds anatomy)
+settripsbunch For the bracket, it's a lot easier from under. And there is no bleeding of any part of the fuel system. You may want to bleed the coolant system once you have refilled it and are getting any air out of the system.
Got everything off..it was easy..taking it to the mech shop in a few days...cant wait to get it back.. haha see if I can get like the pros do!
Have another question for you..what if there is slight variance mic-ing the block .002 in some areas to .0035 Will one have to get the block resurfaced? Or will a headgasket and sealant work? The situation For 1 I broke the belt...2. When driving in the mountains dropping thousands of feet the engine would get cold and blow white smoke heavy out the exhaust...no bubbles in the radiator...but it would overheat on inclines at idle...sidenote engine fan is hooked up to a switch. What you think?
where did you get the arp studs for non vtec

@GBH I noticed you didn’t set the cams on top dead center, is it necessary to do so? I plan on doing the same process on mine plus changing the water pump. Any input helps thanks!
I didn't. I went ahead and just retimed the engine.
You can set if before ever taking it apart. It will help, but it's not a necessity if you're confident you can set timing.
Do you have to make sure it's in top dead center before removing the timing belt? I'm gonna try this on my b18 but I'm no mechanic. Any advice would be great!
No. You'll reset timing once you get everything put back together.
hey jon my b20 is the jdm b20b and the website said it has 8.8 compression with 143hp 133tq... so is this the high comp b20. i read somewhere that the true high comp b20 has 9.6 compression
What year is your b20? The 99-01 are high comp only and will have the knock sensor.
Jon Widmer i dont have the enginge aith me right now and it doesnt state on the website. the thing that confuses me jon is that they advertise it as the jdm b20b/b20z. my block says b20b. they advertise the hogh comp hp and torque... but the comp says 8.8 on their website... so im going to have to call them
Jon Widmer i was freaking out when I saw this. all this money ive spent for all the parts to only have 120hp will not fly with me. id have to build a high comp bottom end for it to be worth my time and money. 11:1
Nathan Rivera agreed. Take a look at the year stamp on the head. There are some importers that try to sell off the low comp engines as high comp to people who don't know the difference.
Jon Widmer i called i git the right one. thanks jon
I'm a all motor non vtec kinda guy.
Lauro Paxcle jr me too homie!!
Hey I have this very same setup on my 99 hatch, I really like it but considered installing a vtec head.
You stated you run this hard, what's the horse 🐴 power and MAX RPM we can push this setup to? Will really appreciate your input on this.
Ps. This b20b is low compression
can you put a link for the spark plug wires cover
amzn.to/3iPLI1t
Garage Built Hondas I mean the cover that you have for them can you send that link please i also am replacing a blown head gasket for me integra your videos are helping alot thank you
Efparts.com
If I were doing the head gasket change on a b18 b1 and wanted to replace the timing belt, would I not have to mark the new belt while the old belt was on? Would this ensure correct orientation of the new belt?
+Justin Beck no, you'll just be resetting timing altogether. I find it more difficult to do it that way. It is 10x easier for me to just reset it when putting it all back together. It might be easier for you that way if you want to do it like that.
When replacing a timing belt on this engine it doesn't matter how or where it's position is(the belt itself) when you install it, it's basically no different than a normal drive belt in terms of that. If you are doing everything correctly, your #1 piston will be a Top Dead Center, therefore the engine is in it's easiest place to find and locate. Why? Because there are marks on your crankshaft and timing cover, that do not change. Also on your camshaft. So if you WERE to disturb timing, you could correct it using these marks. (What marks? "UP" and pointers on camshafts sprockets, and crank keyway and TDC pointer on front of engine.) But, you shouldn't need to. Put #1 at TDC and don't disturb the crank/cams and install your new timing belt according to procedure and you'll be good.
The marks that people make on timing belts before removing are only if they are reusing them, so they can slide them back on without having to set the timing. Which the other guy in the comment section said that he prefers to always reset the timing if belt is removed. Either way works if done correctly. Good luck.
@@jacksonpuckett6115 2019 early am and u just helped me more that you can imagine thanks for the epic help/comment !
@@orlandoautoparts2993 awesome man! Glad I could help !
Hopefully you respond but, I've removed everything correctly but the head doesn't want to come out it feels like something is holding it down by the intake manifold. Can you help?
Are you sure all the bolts, brackets and misc are removed?
Did you set to TDC before removing the belt off camera or does it really not matter ?
No, it doesn't matter.
yeeeeaaah its vtec time . lol
Lol
My cam caps are completely stuck. I don't think they have ever been removed.
Any tips?
I don't want to damage them. I've been hitting them pretty hard with a rubber mallet, but it does nothing.
Pull up on the cam gear slightly. It may help.
Why would you remove the intake while it’s still in the car if your removing the head why not pull it off with the head much easier
+Brandon Wayne That's definitely an option, I chose to leave it on because I find it easier to just remove all the nuts/bolts holding the intake manifold to the head, rather than removing the throttle cable, all the wiring/sensors connected to it, and also all the coolant lines. Only 10 nuts/bolts compared to all those other parts.
0:08 someone's civic getting robbed in the distance 👀😭
jonathan cabrejo jaja
j. Beltran lol!
+Jon Widmer lmao
I'm not finding a sequence in my FSM in which order it wants me to remove the cam caps, But I'm thinking it can't be different between B and D series DOHC motors?
I'm sure it's similar and wouldn't hurt to follow the b series order of removal.
I can’t figure out how to get the intake manifold off. I have 1 or 2 nuts left and they are impossible to get at. Any suggestions b18a1
6" wobble extensions, or use the extensions that are joints.
I have some questions on clusters and cluster harnesses. where or how can I get in touch with you to ask these kinda detailed questions?
You can ask here if you don't mind? I don't mind at all, it can always help people in the future possibly.
Jon Widmer I didn't think of it like that. but I put my 1990 dash in my 1989. I also bought a 1990 si cluster for my 1990 dash and found out that cluster won't work with my cluster harness because of the year difference. I've looked up the diagrams and I think I have the idea of how to do it but wanted to make sure that's how. also where in the cluster does the oil pressure gauge connect? couldn't find it in the diagrams. and how could I get my rpm gauge work or once I get the wiring figured out it will work? sorry a lot of questions..
Possibly B05. Click this link, it has a pin out for where the plug is in a 90-91. Maybe that can help? Hope it points you in the right direction.
0dae2289-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/trevermcdermott/JDMEF9GaugeClusterWiring.pdf?attachauth=ANoY7cqvz4WJT3OSFGHsa8uW8GJKqEeVlZJw7-VQAGYpjE8PRmqzFelysBes0hb5f1h_jAgVR7e9MnfNvSLY4NMCRIn90jZnhUwr7dY__Ft-HwqF_FImLfJaIJGlkR-xELwT87JhjlxZ9iBEqZ8ajKyIbUc1v4YGp2bm4sU1Qlc0_ao4qxu23Q0F_04qE4q9wmnprjKbMkeI81g2IM7s110cucpPcagEnpwwnxn7OV3Hfc3oJH95MTA%3D&attredirects=0
This is only useful if you have a swap or a wire tuck done with 0 accessories.
In a stock car theres WAAAAY more crap in the way which adds like 8 more steps
Only the power steering and AC compressor belts. The power steering pump is removed with a bolts which are easy to see.