I like to put a 10' piece of tape on a wall, Place the tape perfectly level. 2. Then I get the rifle perfectly level and squarely pointed at the tape. 3. Now clock the scope to line up the reticle with the tape on the wall. 4. check that both are level while you tighten down the scope rings in stages and crisscrossing. 5. Good to go
@The END Is Near Beware The tape is placed on a cinderblock wall 30 yards away. The tape is placed horizontally with a 5' level. This is done to confirm the scope is mounted perfectly level. The stock usually needs to be removed to take advantage of the machined flat surface on the bottom of the mag well. I put a 2' level on the workbench and shim it to level, the mag well sits on that, the barrel is supported with books and playing cards to get the barreled action pointed out of the shop at the tape on wall 30 yards away. Now the horizontal crosshair should be parallel with the tape and your anti-cant device can be set now too. Because there's "level" and there's perfectly level. Hope that helps
Thanks for those option and I can appreciate each. I used the mechanical method when possible and they are usually very close. The problem I run into in the past is that the reticle is not exact true with the scope frame. Actually, I am surprised at this because of the high premium I paid for very high-quality optics that have this disappointing problem! What I've resolved to do hang a fluorescent string on a plumb bob at 50yds and just get comfortable in my benchrest position, hold my gun the way I shoot and line up my reticle print to the string. I get better results with that than anything. An older and very good benchrest friend taught me this and, for me, he was absolutely correct. Do what makes you happy right?
Any case. This is simple methods explained excellently. I have been researching scope levelling for more than a year. This is the best of all videos regarding scope levelling I have seen so far. Please just give a definite name or product for the wedge gadget. I want that.
Great advice! Thanks for sharing. I have the ruler already so I'm going to check my scope today. What do you recommend as far as turret placement? I've seen some push turrets towards front ring and I've seen others place right in middle. I believe it has to do with recoil but not exactly sure. I always place mine in middle.
He lives! We've missed you so much, my favorite vid of yours is the explanation of m193 and the 20 inch barrel, which is my preferred ar15. Hope to see more content soon!
That is a very common thread with all the scope mounting/leveling videos. Each of them stress how important it is to get the rifle perfectly level, but then completely skip over how to get it done. Some rifles simply do not have a useable flat surface to use a level on. PLEASE tell us how to level that type of rifle. We don't all shoot rifles with metal chassis and picatinny rails!
Scope people read this. On the bottom of the scope put a ridge long ways. The. In the mount have a place for the ridge. So the scope slides back and forth yet is level automatically. If the ridge is not in the right spot it won’t screw down. Than the scope can’t spin. It’s an easy fix and you don’t ever need to lvl the scope.
Thanks for this. What however irks me, is the fact that the "gadget" which utilizes the triangular wedge being pushed in on a base with a groove, DOES NOT HAVE A PROPER PRODUCT NAME. Imo this is the gold standard, but I cannot buy or order it due to the fact it does not have a common name. In comparison, one could google picatinny rail or wheeler bubble level and everybody knows what you are talking about.
Method 1, Put scope on rifle. Take a plumb weight 10 yards or further away or so. Aim scope on plumb wire and allign your crosshair on that same wire. Method 2, Aim rifle with scope at white wall from few feet away. Put plumb weight on wall. Shine a bright light through eyepiece so your crosshairs is projected on wall. Allign your scope reticle with the wire of the plumb weight hanging on that wall. Congratulations! You now successfully aligned your scope for free.
I've done the projection method before and it is solid. Good stuff, no doubt! I level my scope to the crosshairs, but I stopped being very dogmatic about keeping my rifle perfectly level because my groups suffer, even at some pretty long shot strings. I just hold the darn thing the way I shoot comfortably and do my alignment to a plumb line. Best for me....
Man that is cool!..Gota get me one of those Arisaka device's ,same name maybe not exactly the company same name that made Japanese rifles duing ww2...look's like a great way to..... Get "r" done...KEEP ON ROCKING IT!.....EN2HAMMSTER..............
Had an older bolt action with a two piece base, but the scope had a flat bottom, unfortunately I wasn’t able to go “flat to flat” with feeler gauges. I never saw the metal ruler trick before you showed it and it worked absolutely perfect in my application. Thank you.
The most accurate method you showed is the bubble lol. The ruler and feeler gage are garbage. The ariska can work but it's not as accurate. You're introducing other variables with those 3, and they're only reliable out to around 300 yds. Don't listen to this video.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing. Just ordered the Ariska kit.
I like to put a 10' piece of tape on a wall, Place the tape perfectly level.
2. Then I get the rifle perfectly level and squarely pointed at the tape.
3. Now clock the scope to line up the reticle with the tape on the wall.
4. check that both are level while you tighten down the scope rings in stages and crisscrossing.
5. Good to go
@The END Is Near Beware
The tape is placed on a cinderblock wall 30 yards away. The tape is placed horizontally with a 5' level. This is done to confirm the scope is mounted perfectly level.
The stock usually needs to be removed to take advantage of the machined flat surface on the bottom of the mag well. I put a 2' level on the workbench and shim it to level, the mag well sits on that, the barrel is supported with books and playing cards to get the barreled action pointed out of the shop at the tape on wall 30 yards away.
Now the horizontal crosshair should be parallel with the tape and your anti-cant device can be set now too.
Because there's "level" and there's perfectly level.
Hope that helps
Thanks for those option and I can appreciate each. I used the mechanical method when possible and they are usually very close. The problem I run into in the past is that the reticle is not exact true with the scope frame. Actually, I am surprised at this because of the high premium I paid for very high-quality optics that have this disappointing problem! What I've resolved to do hang a fluorescent string on a plumb bob at 50yds and just get comfortable in my benchrest position, hold my gun the way I shoot and line up my reticle print to the string. I get better results with that than anything. An older and very good benchrest friend taught me this and, for me, he was absolutely correct. Do what makes you happy right?
Any case. This is simple methods explained excellently. I have been researching scope levelling for more than a year. This is the best of all videos regarding scope levelling I have seen so far. Please just give a definite name or product for the wedge gadget. I want that.
Great advice! Thanks for sharing. I have the ruler already so I'm going to check my scope today. What do you recommend as far as turret placement? I've seen some push turrets towards front ring and I've seen others place right in middle. I believe it has to do with recoil but not exactly sure. I always place mine in middle.
Never thought of doing this method. Thanks for the video.
He lives! We've missed you so much, my favorite vid of yours is the explanation of m193 and the 20 inch barrel, which is my preferred ar15. Hope to see more content soon!
I like the wedge kit but wouldnt work on something that wasnt on a rail system aka talley mounts on an 1894
Thanks!
Wish you covered scope mounting to a round receiver without a picatiny rail. Individual bases. ?
That is a very common thread with all the scope mounting/leveling videos. Each of them stress how important it is to get the rifle perfectly level, but then completely skip over how to get it done. Some rifles simply do not have a useable flat surface to use a level on. PLEASE tell us how to level that type of rifle. We don't all shoot rifles with metal chassis and picatinny rails!
what if the gap between the scope base and the bottom of the scope is too small for roler or arisaka tools?
Scope people read this. On the bottom of the scope put a ridge long ways. The. In the mount have a place for the ridge. So the scope slides back and forth yet is level automatically. If the ridge is not in the right spot it won’t screw down. Than the scope can’t spin. It’s an easy fix and you don’t ever need to lvl the scope.
Thanks for this. What however irks me, is the fact that the "gadget" which utilizes the triangular wedge being pushed in on a base with a groove, DOES NOT HAVE A PROPER PRODUCT NAME. Imo this is the gold standard, but I cannot buy or order it due to the fact it does not have a common name. In comparison, one could google picatinny rail or wheeler bubble level and everybody knows what you are talking about.
On Amazon, it's called "Arisaka Optic Leveler Combo"
Method 1,
Put scope on rifle.
Take a plumb weight 10 yards or further away or so.
Aim scope on plumb wire and allign your crosshair on that same wire.
Method 2,
Aim rifle with scope at white wall from few feet away.
Put plumb weight on wall.
Shine a bright light through eyepiece so your crosshairs is projected on wall.
Allign your scope reticle with the wire of the plumb weight hanging on that wall.
Congratulations!
You now successfully aligned your scope for free.
I've done the projection method before and it is solid. Good stuff, no doubt! I level my scope to the crosshairs, but I stopped being very dogmatic about keeping my rifle perfectly level because my groups suffer, even at some pretty long shot strings. I just hold the darn thing the way I shoot comfortably and do my alignment to a plumb line. Best for me....
Man that is cool!..Gota get me one of those Arisaka device's ,same name maybe not exactly the company same name that made Japanese rifles duing ww2...look's like a great way to..... Get "r" done...KEEP ON ROCKING IT!.....EN2HAMMSTER..............
Thank you.
Had an older bolt action with a two piece base, but the scope had a flat bottom, unfortunately I wasn’t able to go “flat to flat” with feeler gauges.
I never saw the metal ruler trick before you showed it and it worked absolutely perfect in my application.
Thank you.
useless video unless you have that type mount for a scope. for rings mounted on the rifle dont waste your time watching.
The most accurate method you showed is the bubble lol. The ruler and feeler gage are garbage. The ariska can work but it's not as accurate. You're introducing other variables with those 3, and they're only reliable out to around 300 yds. Don't listen to this video.