The forward petal is one the left side due to ergonomics. Nobody wants their foot way far out on the right side for 2 hours bush hogging without cruise control.
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I like the reverse petal on the right because when I am in reverse I twist my body to the right and use my left leg on the pedal. It works great that way.
I’ve been shopping for a new 1025 or 2025 are doing the comparisons I run heavy equipment my whole life and I find it really interesting the passion and enthusiasm you put in your business and your videos really come out very well good job
Great video. I think it is safe to say that no matter what you own there are things the manufacturer could have done different. I love my Kioti CS 2210 but there are things I hate about it too. The one thing most of us have in common is we love our tractors. One of the best things I’ve noticed about this channel is there is no ignorance in the comment section. There is a lot of useful comments and good suggestions, let’s keep it going. Happy Easter everyone.
Twin Touch positions: Ergonomics. I think if the pedals swapped position, your knee would take a lot more stress over time reaching outward. Your ankle and hip would likely suffer as well, especially with any bouncing/rough terrain. That was one of the first things I also noticed, but after thinking it through, I'm pretty sure the layout is due to longer term use and knee strain. My current issue with my new 2025R is remembering that the left side pedal is the brake and not the mower deck lift as on my x320.
When I as in the market for a compact tractor I noticed every manufacture had very good selling points and if the buyer could combine the good points of all the different manufactures into one tractor, well lets just say that would be one heck of a nice tractor !!!
Courtney another thing I noticed is that every control seems to be crammed in around the seat. On my 2011 CaseIH 35 (3 series in Deere?) Everything but 2 things are mounted on the fenders makes them real easy to reach and use. Also everything has a sticker telling you what it does
On the pedals, if you turn to look over your right shoulder when backing, as we have done in the USA "for eternity", your foot for the far right pedal will be in a better position than the inside right one and your foot would more likely get wedged if you had to reach the inside pedal for reverse. On forward, the inside pedal keeps the *splay* of the hips at a minimum. Imagine a motorcycle tank being cylindrical instead of teardrop, or even reverse teardrop, comfort would be ruined. Love the channel.
I work in heavy truck engineering and appreciate your insight about how the results of engineering decisions impact real world use (like taking the little tractors into the woods is probably not highly anticipated by engineering). I know in heavy trucks, there are some destinations, like the coal mine areas of KY and WV where engineers know that the trucks brakes will be abused, so they plan for that. Garbage trucks and trucks headed to the middle east are also regularly pushed past their design, so those orders get special scrutiny. I wonder if midwest compact tractors owners are in the same position. Do we just need a midwest model that has a skid plate and valve stem shields?
You nailed it again! Why do we have to go to a 3 Series to get heat/air? B2650 is an awesome machine, but the dealership is miles away, JD is almost 20- 40 minutes in any direction. Break downs happen so that has to figure into what you want?
Like your idea on a underbelly skid plate attachment. The bottom side of MOST tractors are very vulnerable to damage! That is, having had to replace my brake hydraulic lines several times!
I have the 2018 JD 3025E. While working in the woods a stick came right up through the floorboard. It was an easy fix by replacing with a new floorboard. I agree, should have brush guards underneath all tractors
New subscriber here..I just wanted to mention you said your LEDs on your Ford super duty I stop I’m in the great White North in Canada and the ones we buy here are more expensive they have a heating element in them to stop that issue..Should be available anywhere that gets now I would think but not 100% on that
Excellent points. I ended up going with Kubota because I didn’t like the way my John Deere dealer does business. I was looking at their 2 series and they didn’t have any in stock. They couldn’t tell me when they would and we even went as far as creating a mock order from the factory. They gave me a 7 month wait time. Yes, 7 months! I went to my Kubota dealer and they had 4 B series in stock. So, I had my B configured how I wanted in my driveway 2 weeks later. The only thing John Deere has over Kubota is their mower decks. Hands down better. All I can think is that John Deere spent so much time and energy in creating that, that everything else went down the toilet. 😂
I found a major manufacturing defect on my sons 3032E. He was having trouble with it overheating. He would shut it down and since it was too hot to open the radiator cap, he would just check the radiator overflow tank which was always half full. He thought that the water pump was failing or the radiator was plugged up and of course he would clean the radiator screen. I checked the overflow hose and it was open. Then I checked the nipple on the overflow tank to see if it was open. To my surprise, the nipple was solid plastic with no opening at all. It was no wonder that the antifreeze level in the overflow tank was always the same. It was not even connected to the radiator. I drilled a hole in the nipple and now it functions as it should. I wonder how many defective overflow tanks John Deere has sold??? Many people just look at that overflow tank to see if they have antifreeze. ALWAYS OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP AND LOOK INSIDE WHEN IT IS COLD. NEVER COUNT ON THE OVERFLOW TANK AS AN INDICATION.
Dont feel bad,on my 5045 JD did drill and tap the plastic tank,they left the shaving IN the tank. they got sucked up into the fuel filter! the tractor was still running and it wasnt time to change the filter so i didnt know it had happened. eventually small pieces somehow got past it into the pump and injector... cost me a pump rebuild and injectors at 810 hrs.
Very good points! I see a lot of equipment chained down using the loader or 3 point. Neither of these should be used. Chains should go directly to the tractor, but with the lack of good attachment points......
I still wish the two functions would be better like Kubota. I use mine almost strictly for loader applications and a lot of fork lifting. Second gripe that I mentioned in another post is the seats that rip and never seem to last. Mine has a cab on it and still looks like I keep a goat in there. I thought on my other JD that it had something to do with UV or weather but this doesn’t seem to be the case. One other gripe is the Diff lock tiny peg that sticks out. When boots get wet or even dry it is impossible to push it down. I’m not a huge fan of electronics on heavy equipment but if they can’t make a lever an inch longer maybe they could give the customer an option for an electronic diff lock.
Love your thoughts on the need for skid plates, LED lights, and the cab for the 2 series. Didn’t realize the loader was made worse. One other thought is the need for an electric, battery powered rather than diesel powered 2 series tractor. Most of us would appreciate the simplicity of going electric as we don’t need more than 4 hours of run time without recharging. Do you know when the product cycle expires and the next generation of the 2 series comes out?
Agreed not having a drawbar is a huge oversight! It would be nice to have more than a flimsy garden tractor style hitch. I will say I do appreciate the oversights these companies make. It leaves room for companies like heavy hitch to step up and fill the gaps and come out with wonderfully creative products that I believe Deere & Kubota would never produce.
Tractors made since the early oughts are toys. Plastic crap everywhere, designed by guys who have never gotten their fingers dirty.They are glorified lawnmowers. I've owned and used tractors made from the early 1950s (a JD 40) through the early oughts and looked at these jokes that they manufactured today. The apogee of tractor design was in the late 70s to the mid 80s. By this time diesel engines, three point hitches, and wide range geared transmissions were universal and biased towards strength, efficiency, and power not towards being "clean burning" or quiet or other such nonsense considerations. 12v batteries and automotive alternators were common by this era. There has been really no major tech improvement since. And this was before mickey mouse plastic crap started to be put on tractors. It is my opinion that the sheer determination of the Japanese export economy of that era made their tractors FAR superior to anyone else's. They wanted to make their stuff so good to destroy the competition. My 40 year old Kubota blows away any tractor its size made today and frankly and Deere of that era. No plastic. Underside completely protected (it was a cultivator tractor). Hydraulics strong and hold with no power heavy implements. No leaking (after 40 years). Engine super reliable and efficient with no baloney EGRs, DEFs or other nonsense. Just an air, fuel, and oil filter...all three solid screw on steel units that can be replaced in minutes. A STEEL fuel tank. Glass analog gauges that are clear and readable. Glass headlights that work after 40 years. All the pedals are grid iron and look as good as new. All the knobs are hard rubber and are just fine. Seat is great. Starter is beefy and can be replaced in a minute. All the fasteners are hard, forged, oversized HEX heads only in a few sizes. 10mm-17 mm so just a few sockets/wrenches can do the whole tractor. Compared to my 2001 Kubota the older tractor is just better. The plastic "instrument cluster" has cracked in many places, the plastic lenses over the gauges have clouded and are hard to read. The needle has fallen off its tach. The rubber coating on the pedals is long gone leaving metal stubs that are slippery. The plating on the hydraulic rams is failing, seals have gone in some places (despite being half the age). Much of the hardware is of small sizes and soft and has rounded edges. When I look at that new Deere, which is much worse than my 20 year old Kubota, I just laugh. It wouldn't survive a season of real use. It's a suburban machine meant to mow lawns and be kept in nice garage.
Great work effort. Biggest failure is the tires. There is simply no excuse for lacking puncture proof *wheeling.* In the alternative is the ability to add tracks straight on the wheelings. Should come with a standard tool rack. Love your review on non-hydraulic attachments.
Well you made some valid points there... I use the ROPS for the rear tie down points, after folding down the ROPS just put a whatchamycallit into the hole and ratchet it down. As for the underbelly protection, going to take the liner from the tailgate and hang it under there somehow. We all know you bleed more green n ford...lol
You had mentioned at the end of you video about the "backhoe compatable" cabs on the other tractors. The aftermarket cab, "Mauser", for as fancy of a cab that it is, IS NOT backhoe cmpatable with the 1025R. Thankyou for mentioning the spin around seat on the 1025R for the 260 backhoe. That has been one of my biggest gripes & complaints is that JD did not install a seat on the 260 backhoe. When JD come out the the 2025R, they included the seat on that tractor's "hoe". Im bound and determined to find & build a way to put a seat on my 260 hoe. Thankya for the video & do ya remember the 2 phrases i always say that i came up with????. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ."Tractor Theropy" & "Tractor Safe!"
Big opportunity for all John Deere tractors: wrap electrical tape for the wiring harness at the spot of its connection. In automotive this is the most vulnerable spot for corrosion (warranty condition). Too, get the wiring harnesses under and to the side tied up close to the machine. These are stick and weed “grabbers”.
imo - hi low range on the smaller compacts is correct . the “hi” range is likely an actual medium range . no need for a true “hi” / “fast” range as with the short wheel bases of the smaller machines the higher speed could be a safety issue - and those size machines are not typically moved great distances . My 955 / the model series that started it all ! has hi low and i wouldn’t want it to go any faster with a true “hi” range ….. and the “hi” range performs like a med range …. Go JD !! … Love your channel 👍👍🇺🇸
Probably dating myself here. Own a JD 970 with an 8A backhoe. The backhoe has a separate seat. Much handier to get off the backhoe to move the tractor without having to swivel the seat around. Not biased towards JD, but I’ve always had good luck with them. Good video!
I have the earlier version of the 2025r. I really like the tractor, but you are correct, the John Deere seat sucks. Such a rough ride with no options to improve. Was also originally ticked that they skipped the series 2 for the autoconnect deck, but got over it as I only drop it off once a season.
My 57 JD 520 ive been wanting to make a bracket on the front for the front now that i have a good mig welder. I use my tractor for pulling wrecks at a couple local demo derby events. I bought a j hook for pulling wrecks and i want a 2nd cause i love it for tying the back end down and with the bracket building for the front and a 2nd j hook i wouldn't have to climb back on the trl to chain it down
I have a 2032R love it but one thing you mentioned the front hydraulics system the system sucks and when you have the quick connect its expensive. would not do the front hydraulics again. Bad set up for the lines to the plow blade you cant take the complete front loader off with there hydraulic line unless you get off the tractor and disconnect 2 extra line couplers because instead of lines being run along frame to front the run them on the side attached to the loader arms
Also hav seen the auto connect not lined up and get blasted up under the belly and bend the alignment bolt, that has been redesigned this year, have seen the pto shaft not get greased and blow off the trans filter and have to replace the front trans cover, and have seen a hole blown thru the bottom of the trans, but for the others -dont get a cab, us techs hate working around them, and you wont like your bill if its in the way of the work, the engine sheilds are a pain to replace and makes any electrical dash issues a pain to work around -you will hate the price the deere charges for led lights and to replace one bulbs are cheaper by an arm and a leg -sometimes basic and simple means in stock, we all know how long it takes to get bota parts lol -pedals for travel have been the same since the 755 year models Hope this helps
A HUGE improvement to me is on my 5 series is the little slide throttle on the fender! That’s so much easier than the dash! I don’t think I’ve used a foot pedal one time on it!
Your lucky on just a hole on the hydraulic filter. (JD3038E) I had a stick wedge in there and bend the bracket witch in turn tore the hose up. Gallons of hydraulic fluid on the forest floor and stuck in place. After getting all the new parts, had the joy of working on said puddle fixing it. Might be a good project for your resources to come up with a skid plate and put it up in your store.
The only argument I can come up with for how the drive/speed control pedals are is that with the forward pedal to the inside, I suppose it's in a better location ergonomic wise for the operator. You're more likely going to be driving forward than backward for sure. I have a Craftsman lawn tractor that's the same way. the reverse pedal is further outboard from the center. I will agree with you, the intuitiveness of the furthest pedal to the right being the throttle/forward pedal
And also John Deere will not sell you just the plug-in off the harness you have to buy the complete wiring harness which is 620 bucks and takes about a day to put it in
I tied down my JD 4410 on the front by running a chain through the tube that goes between the loader arms. I made a long hook that I stuck through the tube to pull the chain through. I also did a secondary strap to the front frame
Hello, almost everything you brought up I have complained about also. I especially agree with the foot pedals being backwards! I'm glad that someone else agrees with that. I also have an X758 that I wish the right pedal was the forward one. I have never understood this configuration. Maybe in the future they can have pedals that the configuration can be switched electronically like the skid steers do now! Or maybe the aftermarket can come up with something?? Also I agree they are missing sales by not offering a cab on the 2032R and 2038R. It definitely should be an option. Sometimes I think they are reactive instead of proactive in many areas. Not sure why this is. Thanks for all the great videos you put out!
You are spot on regarding swapping the directional pedals. I almost ran over my LP tank when I used my “natural driving reaction” and moved my foot to hit the brake on the left which obviously exacerbated the problem! Very scary! I appreciate your content! Keep the videos coming.
Good morning, another fine video. I have been a subscriber now for awhile and I find your videos very informative. Wondering on the shelf above your work bench, on the left side, are those tubes of grease? If so are they the same one's TTWT recommends? Thanks again, Ed
Hi Ed, yes sir. Lube Shuttle. They reached out to me a couple months ago. Figured I'd give it a shot and absolutely love the stuff. 5% off with discount code GWT at www.lube-shuttle.us
@@GoodWorksTractors Thanks, I purchased my 1025r here in Wisconsin in December, moved a lot of snow, wondering why I waited this long to buy one. You and your family enjoy your Easter weekend. Ed
Lots of good points, my biggest dislike on my 1025 is the hydraulic filter not protected as it’s a costly fix if the u joint breaks and hits and snaps it off. You might want to get the updated air filter system for your 1025. Lots of problems with the old.
I agree with most of what you say here. The seat suspension has always been crap. I put a 3 series suspension on my 1025, makes it much more enjoyable. Some days I'm on the tractor 6-7 hours at a time.
@@GoodWorksTractors it's a little taller. I used to have a 2520 that I changed the seat on so I had an adapter that I built. To get it to bolt up I had to put the suspension on upsidedown and weld some tabs on it so the seat would fold forward so the backhoe would work.
"It's not cheap" -- would probably be the reason many companies don't offer some options. ;) Not only do options add cost to the purchase price for the optional product itself, but the overhead of managing the supply chain, and inventory of the optional parts. Which doesn't make much sense if buyers of equipment aren't willing to pay for the options in quantities high enough to make offering the option profitable. Having said that I'm of the opinion that telescoping lower links, and telescoping stabilizers should be an option (if not standard) for all tractors. The fact that quick hitches exsist in part (at least) to "fix" the issues that arise with non-telescoping lower links says quite a bit. Though personally I'm not a fan of quick hitches - especially when trying to hookup an implement that isn't sitting on ground that's level with the tractor as having the three points that can be independently lengthened/positioned is something I've found to be far easier. ...but that might just be me.
Many of the items mentioned are already found on other models, so they are already being produced. If they could design in a way to be "plug and play" on many models, then their costs would go down as production increases while also increasing profit from selling more product. Thanks for watching!
I noticed something peculiar about that late model 2 series JD. The 3 point hitch lower link adjusting arms are on the inside. Like the Kubota BX,B series. How long did they produce these, I'll be certain to steer clear of those years? Thank you, I really enjoy the videos.
Both Kubota and Deere need a proper storage box for tools/chains. I'm talking a HD metal box suitable for 20' of logging chain, not the plastic tool boxes they sometimes attach as an afterthought..
I have a 5 series and my biggest complaint is the lights mounted to the outside of the rops. Mine got wrecked when working around trees and they are expensive to replace. To move them they need to move the fuel fill to the center of the tank so that the lights on the left won't be in the way of fueling process.
After owning a John Deere 855 for 26 years I have never had a problem with the forward peddle on the left and I just ordered a new Kioti with hydro and the peddles are the same as JD. Tried a Kubota but I don't like there hydro peddle.
I find myself watching your videos every Saturday morning during my coffee. I have a Massey Ferguson 1250 with a Woods loader, 60" bush hog, 72" finish mower, home made 3 point forks and a hydraulic dump hay/firewood wagon. I take care of 40 sheep and mow 25 acres of semi wooded land. My problem is that I will need to replace my tractor at some point (it's too light for safely lifting the round bales into the loft). I have been looking at the Rural King tractors. I know that John Deere engineering has more experience and produces a better tractor, but is it worth the cost for the things I need? I don't need a 10,000 hour tractor. I do need a tractor that is safe for my amateur abilities and is cheap to maintain. I'm not making any money with this tractor (outside of moving 20 bales of hay and avoiding city fines for not mowing). Video idea: What's wrong with the Rural King tractors?
Hey Joe, thanks for following along. It's tough for me to knock something that I don't have much specific experience. However, I do have enough experience with "getting what you pay for" that could possibly make for an interesting video!
I think the reason that the reverse pedal is on the outside relates to ergonomics. When I am backing up, I am frequently turned toward my right side and looking over my right shoulder. This puts the right foot in a more or less horizontal position as opposed to vertical and it will contact the outside pedal much more easily and readily than the inside pedal. If reverse was on the left side, you would be feeling around with the toe of your boot for that inside pedal. The way it is configured, you just push your foot forward and it hits the outside, slightly rearward displaced pedal automatically.
Good ones. I agree on the skid plates. My 2038r add would be for load-n-go. Got it for 60d in 2025 & 1025 and even for 72" deck for 2038r but not on 60" . Also no seat cover option I've found.
Great job. I haven't looked at the new Deere's. Those seats looked like they came off my x500. Wow. My 4310 has a suspension seat, so glad it does...it even has the premium sway controls...I agree there needs to be some kind of belly guards...thanks for the videos. Great job.
@@GoodWorksTractors I also have a 4310 2003 model. Good seat, good power, layouts seem to be fine for controls. I have the power reverser series. I do think p r is better for mowing unless you pay extra for cruise control with hydro. I plow a lot of snow as well as mow about 7 acres regularly with a 6 foot finish mower. 1300 hours ( I know its not a ton of hours)so far never had a repair. I keep it in a shed and it keeps the finish very good as to keeping it outside like my brothers tractor. At todays prices I probably would never would have never bought the tractor. Price then $18,500 with 430 loader, power beyond kit, block heater, drawbar, good 3 pt hitch, heavy duty bucket with heavy added cutting edge , great dealer ads these extras as standard so customers are satisfied from the beginning.
Turn Signals Need protector cages. I noticed that none of those models you have there don't have any. I have a dated 4400 and the signal housings are pretty flimsy. They are always getting hung up on branches. I'm on my second and third set. Not again though as I'm going to weld cages around them. I know it isn't recommended to be welding on the ROPS but I'm not buying anymore lights. Not to mention those darn THERMISTORS. I hope that JD got rid of those. They always go bad when it's 10 degrees out.
Hey Courtney - Great video - John Deere should standardize the foot petal configuration on all of their HST tractors - I use my x350 garden tractor and my 1025r together on many of my projects - Unlike the 1025r the x350 has the brake petal just above the forward & reverse petals (which I do like better than on the 1025r) - So it can be confusing - Especially when I jump on the 1025r right after using the x350 - I sometimes try to hit the brake petal with my right foot instead of my left - which can make things a little interesting at times. Well - maybe I am just getting Anheuser's Disease (not to be confused with Alzheimer's Disease...lol) Happy Easter buddy, to you and your family...
I have a 2009 2520; I see very little in all the changes made since mine was new that are actual improvements. It seems that most are either useless goo-gaws or changes made to simplify production. I do agree that a 3-range transmission would be a real-world improvement. High range on mine is too high for any heavy pulling work, I'm always up against the PRV, so high gets used only for travel most of the time.
I have found the rear side lights very vulnerable. I had bumped tree limbs and other obstacles and had to repair the casings and install new lenses several time . Am I careless ?? How about some kind of protective bar around the fixtures ??
Wiring... So many companies do it so poorly. Spend years/decades developing the components and machinery then just toss some wires in there to connect everything. The connectors they use aren't sealed, chassis grounds, wires (and hydraulics) touching metal without being secured. I just bought a B2650 and spent a few hours already fixing the wiring and hydraulic hoses.
I would add the following: every John Deere 1 through 5 Series Sub, Compact and Utility tractor models should have the same operator station design and layout as much as functionally possible including; LED lights, standard fender lighting, standard rear-ward lighting, minimum one rear SCV, deluxe seat with mechanical suspension and arm rests, snail style fender mount accelerator, one ROP MTN rear-view mirror, functionally consistent three-point hitch set-up, all SCVs controls fender mounted, fuel tanks situated in the rear or side of tractor, expanded tire options including the new 14T hybrid in either Bias or Radial. I’ve owned 2, 3, 4 and 5 series JDs so come by these design update requests honestly.
Was going with JD (1025R) but wanted air and bit more capacity and JD just didn't have anything that fit with out spending 18k more (CAD) than what I bought. My LX2610 is coming home on June 4th.
Well when u tie down a tractor if it has a front loader go under the bucket hydraulics and for the rear of u have a quick hitch go under the top hitch and between the tractor and the hitch
That's a good list. I got rid of the bolts to hold the side panels on my 1025R within the first month. I hacked it with a knob screw and wingnut set up. Totally tool less. But will some day buy the yellow pins LVU22998...
2025R Gen2 was my first compact tractor. Another issue I didn't expect is the limited lift height of the 3 point. Really should have bought 2032 or 2038R but Deere didn't offer a front 3rd function kit.
Nice video, I have a jd 1025r with hoe , loader and drive over deck, love it, except for those couple little things that you pointed out, the swivel seat is number one on my list, what a piece of junk, so thankful they listen and changed that, I’ll just have to live with mine, keep the great videos coming.
My biggest gripe on my 4044m is when I turn around looking at my 3 point to hook up or when brush hogging in reverse I hit the key every time. This makes me worried that I’m going to break the key off and I’m not crazy tall 5’10”. If they moved the key from a center position to the side it would really help.
Just bought my first tractor today. Bought a 1025R, and my one complaint I had was the forward/reverse pedal configuration. Is there an aftermarket fix for this?
Off-road motorbikes and four wheel drives often have bash plates / skid guards. Having one fitted to a small tractor would make it a lot tougher. Of course it would be a hassle to get it off when servicing the machine.
I have always been a huge Deere fan. I have a large collection of Deere stuff and tractors from the 30s and on. I farm with some Deere’s .BUT- when I went to buy a small (75hp) utility I was so disappointed in feature offers vs other brands. And dealer attitude. I think Deere has seen the small tractor market as an annoyance. Now they are all into it and playing catch up. Too late in many respects. The market share has gone to South Korean and kubota. I bought a South Korean brand where I was treated well. Unless dealer attitudes change in farm country they will never catch up. And- Their price point is not competitive. I would only consider late used like you deal in. That is the true Deere market. I will say that their financing is really competitive. But- that isn’t what sells models. Customers want features. Like cabs. That aren’t a 7k option. And are available on the dealer lot. My nearest dealer has a lot full of 2,3,and 4 series. Not one cab. We get to -20 degrees here. What are they thinking?
John Deere Factory Mouser cab on the 1025R Has heat, and fits nice and tight. Check it out! Sold at dealers, Not aftermarket. Dealers within 300 miles of me have sold out of the 1025R with factory cab. I see a lot of soft cab trade ins too.
The most annoying thing on my 3038E is that I can't run the PTO unless I'm sitting in the seat. Which makes it pretty hard to use my PTO woodchipper. So I have to put a bucket of sand on the seat instead.
After more than 60 years driving tractors, why in the WORLD did they put the hydro pedals on the right and brakes on the left?????? It took me about two years to get used to that. GO pedals should be on the left, and BRAKES should be on the right... Probably just me - but those of us who have decades of experience with "clutch, left - brakes right" are really having a bit of a struggle getting used to this new system... I noticed, on your tractor, that the loader hydraulic connectors are crosswise to the frame.. Excellent! Mine ('15 3039R) are in line with the frame and it's harder to use enough force to couple 'em... Best wishes!!
When I bought my BX2380 I had run my bushhog about twenty minutes before I heard some grinding underneath. You guessed it. Plastic fan. Replacing that stinks. Bought a guard from bxpanned
What people seem to not understand is the earlier 2025r and other 2r series are rebranded Yarnmar tractors, not JD product. The newer 2 series built by JD give customers better price point. A lot of people simply want a slightly physically larger machine and the 2025r provides that. Bigger than that the price goes up dramatically, but so don’t the capabilities. I don’t find this terrible as the 2025r does hit a target market with people that have small sub compacts with small tires that want more but not a 40K dollar machine, or a new buyer with the same requirement. There are also some performance difference, not huge but noticeable.
I agree with the cab input, if JD expects a customer to pay a boat load of money for a cab, they need to engineer a way to incorporate AC in the cab. The Mauser cab is awesome, but it lacks AC for the summer time? Would be great in the winter time with heat, but that’s all. If the cab had AC I would definitely consider purchasing it, just heat, absolutely not because I’m not going to deal with that hot cab even with the windows open in the hot days of summer, no way.
The forward petal is one the left side due to ergonomics. Nobody wants their foot way far out on the right side for 2 hours bush hogging without cruise control.
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Massey Ferguson did a beautiful job of undercarriage protection.
I like the reverse petal on the right because when I am in reverse I twist my body to the right and use my left leg on the pedal. It works great that way.
No solution will ever please 100%.
I do the same
I never cared for John Deere till I got my 1025R I just love it
the twin touch config is actually perfect to me
I’ve been shopping for a new 1025 or 2025 are doing the comparisons I run heavy equipment my whole life and I find it really interesting the passion and enthusiasm you put in your business and your videos really come out very well good job
Great video. I think it is safe to say that no matter what you own there are things the manufacturer could have done different. I love my Kioti CS 2210 but there are things I hate about it too. The one thing most of us have in common is we love our tractors. One of the best things I’ve noticed about this channel is there is no ignorance in the comment section. There is a lot of useful comments and good suggestions, let’s keep it going. Happy Easter everyone.
Thanks Jeremy!
Twin Touch positions: Ergonomics. I think if the pedals swapped position, your knee would take a lot more stress over time reaching outward. Your ankle and hip would likely suffer as well, especially with any bouncing/rough terrain. That was one of the first things I also noticed, but after thinking it through, I'm pretty sure the layout is due to longer term use and knee strain. My current issue with my new 2025R is remembering that the left side pedal is the brake and not the mower deck lift as on my x320.
When I as in the market for a compact tractor I noticed every manufacture had very good selling points and if the buyer could combine the good points of all the different manufactures into one tractor, well lets just say that would be one heck of a nice tractor !!!
Totally agree!
Jim Olenchak just like diesel trucks!
Courtney another thing I noticed is that every control seems to be crammed in around the seat. On my 2011 CaseIH 35 (3 series in Deere?) Everything but 2 things are mounted on the fenders makes them real easy to reach and use. Also everything has a sticker telling you what it does
Skid plate. Great idea. I've noticed the filters hanging down and getting banged up. Not to mention all the hoses.
No doubt...some wires too
Totally agree with lack of door piston on off side door. No brainer!
On the pedals, if you turn to look over your right shoulder when backing, as we have done in the USA "for eternity", your foot for the far right pedal will be in a better position than the inside right one and your foot would more likely get wedged if you had to reach the inside pedal for reverse. On forward, the inside pedal keeps the *splay* of the hips at a minimum. Imagine a motorcycle tank being cylindrical instead of teardrop, or even reverse teardrop, comfort would be ruined.
Love the channel.
I work in heavy truck engineering and appreciate your insight about how the results of engineering decisions impact real world use (like taking the little tractors into the woods is probably not highly anticipated by engineering). I know in heavy trucks, there are some destinations, like the coal mine areas of KY and WV where engineers know that the trucks brakes will be abused, so they plan for that. Garbage trucks and trucks headed to the middle east are also regularly pushed past their design, so those orders get special scrutiny. I wonder if midwest compact tractors owners are in the same position. Do we just need a midwest model that has a skid plate and valve stem shields?
I like that, the "Corn Belt" custom edition or something like that. Kind of like the Ford King Ranch. You're on to something! 🤣👍
You nailed it again! Why do we have to go to a 3 Series to get heat/air? B2650 is an awesome machine, but the dealership is miles away, JD is almost 20- 40 minutes in any direction. Break downs happen so that has to figure into what you want?
Like your idea on a underbelly skid plate attachment. The bottom side of MOST tractors are very vulnerable to damage! That is, having had to replace my brake hydraulic lines several times!
quick connect skid plate would be awesome!
I have the 2018 JD 3025E. While working in the woods a stick came right up through the floorboard. It was an easy fix by replacing with a new floorboard.
I agree, should have brush guards underneath all tractors
Had a buddy put a stick right into a seam near his transaxle. Took out the four wheel drive system.
@@GoodWorksTractors ohhhh expensive fix
New subscriber here..I just wanted to mention you said your LEDs on your Ford super duty I stop I’m in the great White North in Canada and the ones we buy here are more expensive they have a heating element in them to stop that issue..Should be available anywhere that gets now I would think but not 100% on that
Trying to get the oil dipstick back on my 3038e is a total pain! Need a flashlight to find the hole. Could have mounted it in a much easier location.
Yeah, I agree. Some models are a pain.
Excellent points. I ended up going with Kubota because I didn’t like the way my John Deere dealer does business. I was looking at their 2 series and they didn’t have any in stock. They couldn’t tell me when they would and we even went as far as creating a mock order from the factory. They gave me a 7 month wait time. Yes, 7 months! I went to my Kubota dealer and they had 4 B series in stock. So, I had my B configured how I wanted in my driveway 2 weeks later. The only thing John Deere has over Kubota is their mower decks. Hands down better. All I can think is that John Deere spent so much time and energy in creating that, that everything else went down the toilet. 😂
😂👍
I found a major manufacturing defect on my sons 3032E. He was having trouble with it overheating. He would shut it down and since it was too hot to open the radiator cap, he would just check the radiator overflow tank which was always half full. He thought that the water pump was failing or the radiator was plugged up and of course he would clean the radiator screen. I checked the overflow hose and it was open. Then I checked the nipple on the overflow tank to see if it was open. To my surprise, the nipple was solid plastic with no opening at all. It was no wonder that the antifreeze level in the overflow tank was always the same. It was not even connected to the radiator. I drilled a hole in the nipple and now it functions as it should. I wonder how many defective overflow tanks John Deere has sold??? Many people just look at that overflow tank to see if they have antifreeze. ALWAYS OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP AND LOOK INSIDE WHEN IT IS COLD. NEVER COUNT ON THE OVERFLOW TANK AS AN INDICATION.
Dont feel bad,on my 5045 JD did drill and tap the plastic tank,they left the shaving IN the tank. they got sucked up into the fuel filter! the tractor was still running and it wasnt time to change the filter so i didnt know it had happened. eventually small pieces somehow got past it into the pump and injector... cost me a pump rebuild and injectors at 810 hrs.
Very good points! I see a lot of equipment chained down using the loader or 3 point. Neither of these should be used. Chains should go directly to the tractor, but with the lack of good attachment points......
I still wish the two functions would be better like Kubota. I use mine almost strictly for loader applications and a lot of fork lifting. Second gripe that I mentioned in another post is the seats that rip and never seem to last. Mine has a cab on it and still looks like I keep a goat in there. I thought on my other JD that it had something to do with UV or weather but this doesn’t seem to be the case. One other gripe is the Diff lock tiny peg that sticks out. When boots get wet or even dry it is impossible to push it down. I’m not a huge fan of electronics on heavy equipment but if they can’t make a lever an inch longer maybe they could give the customer an option for an electronic diff lock.
Love your thoughts on the need for skid plates, LED lights, and the cab for the 2 series. Didn’t realize the loader was made worse. One other thought is the need for an electric, battery powered rather than diesel powered 2 series tractor. Most of us would appreciate the simplicity of going electric as we don’t need more than 4 hours of run time without recharging. Do you know when the product cycle expires and the next generation of the 2 series comes out?
Battery’s don’t last but Diesel engines last a good long time, having said that many guys may like the option!
Agreed not having a drawbar is a huge oversight! It would be nice to have more than a flimsy garden tractor style hitch. I will say I do appreciate the oversights these companies make. It leaves room for companies like heavy hitch to step up and fill the gaps and come out with wonderfully creative products that I believe Deere & Kubota would never produce.
I am thinking the 2025r is more for people shopping for a 1025r but wants the ground clearance what do you think.. It should be a 1025r "Heavy Duty"
I like that! 1025r HD. Everyone wants Heavy Duty, haha!
Tractors made since the early oughts are toys. Plastic crap everywhere, designed by guys who have never gotten their fingers dirty.They are glorified lawnmowers. I've owned and used tractors made from the early 1950s (a JD 40) through the early oughts and looked at these jokes that they manufactured today. The apogee of tractor design was in the late 70s to the mid 80s. By this time diesel engines, three point hitches, and wide range geared transmissions were universal and biased towards strength, efficiency, and power not towards being "clean burning" or quiet or other such nonsense considerations. 12v batteries and automotive alternators were common by this era. There has been really no major tech improvement since. And this was before mickey mouse plastic crap started to be put on tractors. It is my opinion that the sheer determination of the Japanese export economy of that era made their tractors FAR superior to anyone else's. They wanted to make their stuff so good to destroy the competition. My 40 year old Kubota blows away any tractor its size made today and frankly and Deere of that era. No plastic. Underside completely protected (it was a cultivator tractor). Hydraulics strong and hold with no power heavy implements. No leaking (after 40 years). Engine super reliable and efficient with no baloney EGRs, DEFs or other nonsense. Just an air, fuel, and oil filter...all three solid screw on steel units that can be replaced in minutes. A STEEL fuel tank. Glass analog gauges that are clear and readable. Glass headlights that work after 40 years. All the pedals are grid iron and look as good as new. All the knobs are hard rubber and are just fine. Seat is great. Starter is beefy and can be replaced in a minute. All the fasteners are hard, forged, oversized HEX heads only in a few sizes. 10mm-17 mm so just a few sockets/wrenches can do the whole tractor. Compared to my 2001 Kubota the older tractor is just better. The plastic "instrument cluster" has cracked in many places, the plastic lenses over the gauges have clouded and are hard to read. The needle has fallen off its tach. The rubber coating on the pedals is long gone leaving metal stubs that are slippery. The plating on the hydraulic rams is failing, seals have gone in some places (despite being half the age). Much of the hardware is of small sizes and soft and has rounded edges. When I look at that new Deere, which is much worse than my 20 year old Kubota, I just laugh. It wouldn't survive a season of real use. It's a suburban machine meant to mow lawns and be kept in nice garage.
Great work effort. Biggest failure is the tires. There is simply no excuse for lacking puncture proof *wheeling.* In the alternative is the ability to add tracks straight on the wheelings. Should come with a standard tool rack. Love your review on non-hydraulic attachments.
Well you made some valid points there... I use the ROPS for the rear tie down points, after folding down the ROPS just put a whatchamycallit into the hole and ratchet it down. As for the underbelly protection, going to take the liner from the tailgate and hang it under there somehow. We all know you bleed more green n ford...lol
Let me know how that mod goes for ya Randal!
Well thought out suggestions. I hope John Deere is listening and incorporates these into their offerings.
Morning Lea, have a great weekend!
@@GoodWorksTractors thanks Court. I'm going to russal up a tape and order some stuff. :)
You had mentioned at the end of you video about the "backhoe compatable" cabs on the other tractors. The aftermarket cab, "Mauser", for as fancy of a cab that it is, IS NOT backhoe cmpatable with the 1025R.
Thankyou for mentioning the spin around seat on the 1025R for the 260 backhoe. That has been one of my biggest gripes & complaints is that JD did not install a seat on the 260 backhoe. When JD come out the the 2025R, they included the seat on that tractor's "hoe".
Im bound and determined to find & build a way to put a seat on my 260 hoe. Thankya for the video & do ya remember the 2 phrases i always say that i came up with????. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ."Tractor Theropy" & "Tractor Safe!"
Big opportunity for all John Deere tractors: wrap electrical tape for the wiring harness at the spot of its connection. In automotive this is the most vulnerable spot for corrosion (warranty condition). Too, get the wiring harnesses under and to the side tied up close to the machine. These are stick and weed “grabbers”.
imo - hi low range on the smaller compacts is correct .
the “hi” range is likely an actual medium range . no need for a true “hi” / “fast” range as with the short wheel bases of the smaller machines the higher speed could be a safety issue - and those size machines are not typically moved great distances . My 955 / the model series that started it all ! has hi low and i wouldn’t want it to go any faster with a true “hi” range ….. and the “hi” range performs like a med range …. Go JD !! … Love your channel 👍👍🇺🇸
Probably dating myself here. Own a JD 970 with an 8A backhoe. The backhoe has a separate seat. Much handier to get off the backhoe to move the tractor without having to swivel the seat around. Not biased towards JD, but I’ve always had good luck with them. Good video!
Completely agree, thanks for watching!
I have the earlier version of the 2025r. I really like the tractor, but you are correct, the John Deere seat sucks. Such a rough ride with no options to improve. Was also originally ticked that they skipped the series 2 for the autoconnect deck, but got over it as I only drop it off once a season.
My 57 JD 520 ive been wanting to make a bracket on the front for the front now that i have a good mig welder. I use my tractor for pulling wrecks at a couple local demo derby events. I bought a j hook for pulling wrecks and i want a 2nd cause i love it for tying the back end down and with the bracket building for the front and a 2nd j hook i wouldn't have to climb back on the trl to chain it down
I have a 2032R love it but one thing you mentioned the front hydraulics system the system sucks and when you have the quick connect its expensive. would not do the front hydraulics again. Bad set up for the lines to the plow blade you cant take the complete front loader off with there hydraulic line unless you get off the tractor and disconnect 2 extra line couplers because instead of lines being run along frame to front the run them on the side attached to the loader arms
Also hav seen the auto connect not lined up and get blasted up under the belly and bend the alignment bolt, that has been redesigned this year, have seen the pto shaft not get greased and blow off the trans filter and have to replace the front trans cover, and have seen a hole blown thru the bottom of the trans, but for the others
-dont get a cab, us techs hate working around them, and you wont like your bill if its in the way of the work, the engine sheilds are a pain to replace and makes any electrical dash issues a pain to work around
-you will hate the price the deere charges for led lights and to replace one bulbs are cheaper by an arm and a leg
-sometimes basic and simple means in stock, we all know how long it takes to get bota parts lol
-pedals for travel have been the same since the 755 year models
Hope this helps
A HUGE improvement to me is on my 5 series is the little slide throttle on the fender! That’s so much easier than the dash! I don’t think I’ve used a foot pedal one time on it!
It's plastic and electric when it quits working or plastic broke you won't like it
Yup… once you start using the snail type accelerator, you seldom use the foot throttle.
Your lucky on just a hole on the hydraulic filter. (JD3038E) I had a stick wedge in there and bend the bracket witch in turn tore the hose up. Gallons of hydraulic fluid on the forest floor and stuck in place. After getting all the new parts, had the joy of working on said puddle fixing it.
Might be a good project for your resources to come up with a skid plate and put it up in your store.
Im buying a Kubota but still enjoy watching your JD videos
Haha, that's okay. I like Kubota too :)
AMEN! to the pedal suggestion
I've never thought of the pedals being backwards...interesting😁. Great video. Loving my 3032e with backhoe!
Thanks for watching sir!
The only argument I can come up with for how the drive/speed control pedals are is that with the forward pedal to the inside, I suppose it's in a better location ergonomic wise for the operator. You're more likely going to be driving forward than backward for sure. I have a Craftsman lawn tractor that's the same way. the reverse pedal is further outboard from the center. I will agree with you, the intuitiveness of the furthest pedal to the right being the throttle/forward pedal
I agree with the skid plates I have ripped the wires out of my foot pedals three or four times on my 3320 and also the cruise control speed sensors
And also John Deere will not sell you just the plug-in off the harness you have to buy the complete wiring harness which is 620 bucks and takes about a day to put it in
Good points for sure!
I tied down my JD 4410 on the front by running a chain through the tube that goes between the loader arms. I made a long hook that I stuck through the tube to pull the chain through. I also did a secondary strap to the front frame
Hello, almost everything you brought up I have complained about also. I especially agree with the foot pedals being backwards! I'm glad that someone else agrees with that. I also have an X758 that I wish the right pedal was the forward one. I have never understood this configuration. Maybe in the future they can have pedals that the configuration can be switched electronically like the skid steers do now! Or maybe the aftermarket can come up with something?? Also I agree they are missing sales by not offering a cab on the 2032R and 2038R. It definitely should be an option. Sometimes I think they are reactive instead of proactive in many areas. Not sure why this is. Thanks for all the great videos you put out!
As always, very informative. I'm always thinking of upgrading my 1025R and this was perfect. Thanks.
What is the big gripe about no drawbar on a one series? You can put a clevis on that plate and it is stronger than the tractor can ever pull
Extending out further back away from tires to be able to turn easier.
You are spot on regarding swapping the directional pedals. I almost ran over my LP tank when I used my “natural driving reaction” and moved my foot to hit the brake on the left which obviously exacerbated the problem! Very scary! I appreciate your content! Keep the videos coming.
I've been there too! Thanks for watching Harv!
Good morning, another fine video. I have been a subscriber now for awhile and I find your videos very informative. Wondering on the shelf above your work bench, on the left side, are those tubes of grease? If so are they the same one's TTWT recommends? Thanks again, Ed
Hi Ed, yes sir. Lube Shuttle. They reached out to me a couple months ago. Figured I'd give it a shot and absolutely love the stuff. 5% off with discount code GWT at www.lube-shuttle.us
@@GoodWorksTractors Thanks, I purchased my 1025r here in Wisconsin in December, moved a lot of snow, wondering why I waited this long to buy one. You and your family enjoy your Easter weekend. Ed
Same to you and yours!
Lots of good points, my biggest dislike on my 1025 is the hydraulic filter not protected as it’s a costly fix if the u joint breaks and hits and snaps it off. You might want to get the updated air filter system for your 1025. Lots of problems with the old.
Yeah, that's crossed my mind, good thinkin'.
I agree with most of what you say here. The seat suspension has always been crap. I put a 3 series suspension on my 1025, makes it much more enjoyable. Some days I'm on the tractor 6-7 hours at a time.
Assume you had to do some mods to get it to fit? How's the height difference?
@@GoodWorksTractors it's a little taller. I used to have a 2520 that I changed the seat on so I had an adapter that I built. To get it to bolt up I had to put the suspension on upsidedown and weld some tabs on it so the seat would fold forward so the backhoe would work.
"It's not cheap" -- would probably be the reason many companies don't offer some options. ;) Not only do options add cost to the purchase price for the optional product itself, but the overhead of managing the supply chain, and inventory of the optional parts. Which doesn't make much sense if buyers of equipment aren't willing to pay for the options in quantities high enough to make offering the option profitable.
Having said that I'm of the opinion that telescoping lower links, and telescoping stabilizers should be an option (if not standard) for all tractors. The fact that quick hitches exsist in part (at least) to "fix" the issues that arise with non-telescoping lower links says quite a bit. Though personally I'm not a fan of quick hitches - especially when trying to hookup an implement that isn't sitting on ground that's level with the tractor as having the three points that can be independently lengthened/positioned is something I've found to be far easier. ...but that might just be me.
Many of the items mentioned are already found on other models, so they are already being produced. If they could design in a way to be "plug and play" on many models, then their costs would go down as production increases while also increasing profit from selling more product. Thanks for watching!
I noticed something peculiar about that late model 2 series JD. The 3 point hitch lower link adjusting arms are on the inside. Like the Kubota BX,B series. How long did they produce these, I'll be certain to steer clear of those years? Thank you, I really enjoy the videos.
Both Kubota and Deere need a proper storage box for tools/chains. I'm talking a HD metal box suitable for 20' of logging chain, not the plastic tool boxes they sometimes attach as an afterthought..
I have a 5 series and my biggest complaint is the lights mounted to the outside of the rops. Mine got wrecked when working around trees and they are expensive to replace.
To move them they need to move the fuel fill to the center of the tank so that the lights on the left won't be in the way of fueling process.
Seat options...yes!
The only complaint with my tractor is the seat and rough ride!
I hear ya!
After owning a John Deere 855 for 26 years I have never had a problem with the forward peddle on the left and I just ordered a new Kioti with hydro and the peddles are the same as JD. Tried a Kubota but I don't like there hydro peddle.
I find myself watching your videos every Saturday morning during my coffee. I have a Massey Ferguson 1250 with a Woods loader, 60" bush hog, 72" finish mower, home made 3 point forks and a hydraulic dump hay/firewood wagon. I take care of 40 sheep and mow 25 acres of semi wooded land. My problem is that I will need to replace my tractor at some point (it's too light for safely lifting the round bales into the loft). I have been looking at the Rural King tractors. I know that John Deere engineering has more experience and produces a better tractor, but is it worth the cost for the things I need? I don't need a 10,000 hour tractor. I do need a tractor that is safe for my amateur abilities and is cheap to maintain. I'm not making any money with this tractor (outside of moving 20 bales of hay and avoiding city fines for not mowing).
Video idea: What's wrong with the Rural King tractors?
Hey Joe, thanks for following along. It's tough for me to knock something that I don't have much specific experience. However, I do have enough experience with "getting what you pay for" that could possibly make for an interesting video!
I think the reason that the reverse pedal is on the outside relates to ergonomics. When I am backing up, I am frequently turned toward my right side and looking over my right shoulder. This puts the right foot in a more or less horizontal position as opposed to vertical and it will contact the outside pedal much more easily and readily than the inside pedal. If reverse was on the left side, you would be feeling around with the toe of your boot for that inside pedal. The way it is configured, you just push your foot forward and it hits the outside, slightly rearward displaced pedal automatically.
Love the tractor talk but must confess... I like hunting talk too.
Amen on the tie downs!
Mauser cab for the 1025r is almost factory. Dealer installed love it for the winter!
Maybe you can get a mist-er for the fan in the summertime, haha! Thanks for watching....those are certainly nice cabs.
Good ones. I agree on the skid plates. My 2038r add would be for load-n-go. Got it for 60d in 2025 & 1025 and even for 72" deck for 2038r but not on 60" . Also no seat cover option I've found.
Strange, think they'd have a seat cover and load n go. Maybe soon.
I agree on the pedals. Great videos!
Great job. I haven't looked at the new Deere's. Those seats looked like they came off my x500. Wow. My 4310 has a suspension seat, so glad it does...it even has the premium sway controls...I agree there needs to be some kind of belly guards...thanks for the videos. Great job.
Yeah, you have an earlier generation of the premium line up. Good machine.
@@GoodWorksTractors I also have a 4310 2003 model. Good seat, good power, layouts seem to be fine for controls. I have the power reverser series. I do think p r is better for mowing unless you pay extra for cruise control with hydro. I plow a lot of snow as well as mow about 7 acres regularly with a 6 foot finish mower. 1300 hours ( I know its not a ton of hours)so far never had a repair. I keep it in a shed and it keeps the finish very good as to keeping it outside like my brothers tractor. At todays prices I probably would never would have never bought the tractor. Price then $18,500 with 430 loader, power beyond kit, block heater, drawbar, good 3 pt hitch, heavy duty bucket with heavy added cutting edge , great dealer ads these extras as standard so customers are satisfied from the beginning.
Turn Signals Need protector cages. I noticed that none of those models you have there don't have any. I have a dated 4400 and the signal housings are pretty flimsy. They are always getting hung up on branches. I'm on my second and third set. Not again though as I'm going to weld cages around them. I know it isn't recommended to be welding on the ROPS but I'm not buying anymore lights.
Not to mention those darn THERMISTORS. I hope that JD got rid of those. They always go bad when it's 10 degrees out.
Hey Courtney - Great video - John Deere should standardize the foot petal configuration on all of their HST tractors - I use my x350 garden tractor and my 1025r together on many of my projects - Unlike the 1025r the x350 has the brake petal just above the forward & reverse petals (which I do like better than on the 1025r) - So it can be confusing - Especially when I jump on the 1025r right after using the x350 - I sometimes try to hit the brake petal with my right foot instead of my left - which can make things a little interesting at times. Well - maybe I am just getting Anheuser's Disease (not to be confused with Alzheimer's Disease...lol) Happy Easter buddy, to you and your family...
I have a 2009 2520; I see very little in all the changes made since mine was new that are actual improvements. It seems that most are either useless goo-gaws or changes made to simplify production. I do agree that a 3-range transmission would be a real-world improvement. High range on mine is too high for any heavy pulling work, I'm always up against the PRV, so high gets used only for travel most of the time.
I have found the rear side lights very vulnerable. I had bumped tree limbs and other obstacles and had to repair the casings and install new lenses several time . Am I careless ?? How about some kind of protective bar around the fixtures ??
This is what I was thinking about some kind of shield on the bottom of the tractor with small holes so the engine can breath from the heat
I have a MF gc1725m and you should check out the shielding and tie-downs
Also, the original 3E series didn't have foldable ROPS. Huge PIA on my 3032e with a short garage door.
Wiring... So many companies do it so poorly. Spend years/decades developing the components and machinery then just toss some wires in there to connect everything. The connectors they use aren't sealed, chassis grounds, wires (and hydraulics) touching metal without being secured. I just bought a B2650 and spent a few hours already fixing the wiring and hydraulic hoses.
100% agree
I would add the following: every John Deere 1 through 5 Series Sub, Compact and Utility tractor models should have the same operator station design and layout as much as functionally possible including; LED lights, standard fender lighting, standard rear-ward lighting, minimum one rear SCV, deluxe seat with mechanical suspension and arm rests, snail style fender mount accelerator, one ROP MTN rear-view mirror, functionally consistent three-point hitch set-up, all SCVs controls fender mounted, fuel tanks situated in the rear or side of tractor, expanded tire options including the new 14T hybrid in either Bias or Radial.
I’ve owned 2, 3, 4 and 5 series JDs so come by these design update requests honestly.
Was going with JD (1025R) but wanted air and bit more capacity and JD just didn't have anything that fit with out spending 18k more (CAD) than what I bought. My LX2610 is coming home on June 4th.
Well when u tie down a tractor if it has a front loader go under the bucket hydraulics and for the rear of u have a quick hitch go under the top hitch and between the tractor and the hitch
That's a good list. I got rid of the bolts to hold the side panels on my 1025R within the first month. I hacked it with a knob screw and wingnut set up. Totally tool less. But will some day buy the yellow pins LVU22998...
Took them long enough ya know!
2025R Gen2 was my first compact tractor. Another issue I didn't expect is the limited lift height of the 3 point. Really should have bought 2032 or 2038R but Deere didn't offer a front 3rd function kit.
Good point about the 3 point lift height.
those small tractors aren't designed for off road. they are designed for garden, street and allotment work
Nice video, I have a jd 1025r with hoe , loader and drive over deck, love it, except for those couple little things that you pointed out, the swivel seat is number one on my list, what a piece of junk, so thankful they listen and changed that, I’ll just have to live with mine, keep the great videos coming.
Thanks Tom, have a great weekend!
My biggest gripe on my 4044m is when I turn around looking at my 3 point to hook up or when brush hogging in reverse I hit the key every time. This makes me worried that I’m going to break the key off and I’m not crazy tall 5’10”. If they moved the key from a center position to the side it would really help.
Good point. I have almost done that myself. Severely bent a couple of them.
Kept bending them too. And I let them know. So they took a grinder and grinder it down to just a small handle to grab. Works much better
Just bought my first tractor today. Bought a 1025R, and my one complaint I had was the forward/reverse pedal configuration. Is there an aftermarket fix for this?
Congrats! Not aware of any aftermarket solutions though
Off-road motorbikes and four wheel drives often have bash plates / skid guards. Having one fitted to a small tractor would make it a lot tougher. Of course it would be a hassle to get it off when servicing the machine.
I totally agree about the 120R loader on the Gen 2 2025R, it makes no sense…and I’m buying one 😂
3032E, fuel gauge behind the seat... Why?
I saw your KUIU jacket and wondered if you hunt out west. Fan of KUIU and JD.
Sure do! Not often enough though!
I have always been a huge Deere fan. I have a large collection of Deere stuff and tractors from the 30s and on. I farm with some Deere’s .BUT- when I went to buy a small (75hp) utility I was so disappointed in feature offers vs other brands. And dealer attitude. I think Deere has seen the small tractor market as an annoyance. Now they are all into it and playing catch up. Too late in many respects. The market share has gone to South Korean and kubota. I bought a South Korean brand where I was treated well. Unless dealer attitudes change in farm country they will never catch up. And- Their price point is not competitive. I would only consider late used like you deal in. That is the true Deere market. I will say that their financing is really competitive. But- that isn’t what sells models. Customers want features. Like cabs. That aren’t a 7k option. And are available on the dealer lot. My nearest dealer has a lot full of 2,3,and 4 series. Not one cab. We get to -20 degrees here. What are they thinking?
John Deere Factory Mouser cab on the 1025R Has heat, and fits nice and tight. Check it out! Sold at dealers, Not aftermarket. Dealers within 300 miles of me have sold out of the 1025R with factory cab. I see a lot of soft cab trade ins too.
I don't consider anything a factory cab unless it's keeping me frosty in the summertime! 😂
The most annoying thing on my 3038E is that I can't run the PTO unless I'm sitting in the seat. Which makes it pretty hard to use my PTO woodchipper. So I have to put a bucket of sand on the seat instead.
Yeah, I haven't found another way to override it unfortunately.
I took the seat sensor out and used a tie strap to keep the switch closed
After more than 60 years driving tractors, why in the WORLD did they put the hydro pedals on the right and brakes on the left?????? It took me about two years to get used to that. GO pedals should be on the left, and BRAKES should be on the right... Probably just me - but those of us who have decades of experience with "clutch, left - brakes right" are really having a bit of a struggle getting used to this new system... I noticed, on your tractor, that the loader hydraulic connectors are crosswise to the frame.. Excellent! Mine ('15 3039R) are in line with the frame and it's harder to use enough force to couple 'em... Best wishes!!
why is the cruise control above the parking brake, I'm always pulling it up trying to release the brake
When I bought my BX2380 I had run my bushhog about twenty minutes before I heard some grinding underneath. You guessed it. Plastic fan. Replacing that stinks. Bought a guard from bxpanned
Hello do you have any experience with the jd 5075e with cab thinking about getting one greetings from Norway
I don't, but watch Tractor Time With Tim. He has one.
@@GoodWorksTractors Thanks I do subscribe on his channel so I will ask him 😊
I use Axle straps on the front axle of my 3720 with ratchet straps and I put a Bow shackle in the tongue and run a chain through it
What people seem to not understand is the earlier 2025r and other 2r series are rebranded Yarnmar tractors, not JD product. The newer 2 series built by JD give customers better price point. A lot of people simply want a slightly physically larger machine and the 2025r provides that. Bigger than that the price goes up dramatically, but so don’t the capabilities. I don’t find this terrible as the 2025r does hit a target market with people that have small sub compacts with small tires that want more but not a 40K dollar machine, or a new buyer with the same requirement. There are also some performance difference, not huge but noticeable.
Better to have more choices than not enough I suppose
I agree with the cab input, if JD expects a customer to pay a boat load of money for a cab, they need to engineer a way to incorporate AC in the cab. The Mauser cab is awesome, but it lacks AC for the summer time? Would be great in the winter time with heat, but that’s all. If the cab had AC I would definitely consider purchasing it, just heat, absolutely not because I’m not going to deal with that hot cab even with the windows open in the hot days of summer, no way.
In 100% agreement here
The new 2036 that is in the European design market has a factory cab and air ride seat, don't know why didn't offer it here.