different types of wear make different noises. You can have a rumbling noise all the time. you can have a rumbling and a whining when you accelerate. or you can have a whine on decel. Check the noise on turning. if the noise get less when you turn one way and louder when you turn the other way, it may be the axle bearings. Usually thought, the noise on acceleration is a sign of the rear end needing repairs. Noise usually starts at around 30-35mph and gets worse the faster you go.
So opinion bearing noise usually starts 30-35 or bad rear? I have some noise that's worse on decel and Accel but not quite as bad as decel and only seems to happen around 30 plus mph. I can block it up and run it those speeds on blocks and kind of hear it when i let off then push the throttle to put a little strain on it at 35 or so. I have to make a 5 hour move pulling a trailer and really needing to identify this quickly so any good solid opinion would be awesome. Thanks
Man thank you very much! The noise in my k20 was so annoying when I got the car 6 years ago and it got worse and its only between 30 and 35mph then the noise blend in, I think I should have checked it when I changed the pinion seal, thanks for the info sir
I tried that. I tightened it too much and ruined the pinion bearings in my GM 10 bolt. Have to remove the diff to get an accurate measure on the bearing pre-load. Lesson learned for me. new bearings/races and crush sleeve properly installed solved it.
Nut can come loose from someone changing the seal and not using a new replacement locknut or re-installing with the wrong pre-load. it just looks like a lot of play for worn bearings.
My mom has a 97 GMC 2500 HD that she bought new in 97 and when my step dad died she drove it towards town to the funeral home to talk to them and half way into town the motor blew up. She had it towed back to her house and had us put it up on blocks until she could get a new motor. When I took her to get the motor put in the truck I asked the mechano to check the rear end fluid because it had been up on blocks for 12 years and the fluid might be low in the rear end. I thought he knew how to check it and he said when I asked about it that the fluid level was fine. So he finished installing the new block and putting everything back together. It started making hard shifts between all gears. I asked him if it could be anything else causing the hard shifts between gears and he said the New Transmission probably just needs to be broke in. I was putting new brake shoes on the back axle last week and while I had the rear end up on jacks I turned the wheel fast and then stopped it abruptly. I seen the rear differential move when I stopped the wheel from moving. I know it would make a noise when it's traveling down the street like a low squealing noise but this is a very hard shift between gears and a loud clunking noise coming from the rear end. It's so bad that I've already had to change all 3 Ujoints and the big center carrier bearing because the loud clunking damaged all them. Is it just the front digferencial bearing causing the issue ? OR could it be all the bearings in the rear end do to not enough fluid in the rear end ? Need to know because right now my mom just got her total knee replacement and I've got to take her to Theropy 3 times per week. I wish someone could help me figure out the clunking noise because it's new to me and I've never seen a floating axle do this. Could all gears be worn down from lack of fluid ?
LOL. I have never had rear end problems until I bought a car featuring a "rebuilt rear end". Now I got rear end problems!! The bearings disintegrated and locked the rear end
Got the same problem with me 2007 mustang GT. It's got worse as time went on, luckily hasn't seized up or anything yet, and I got 4.10 gears to replace it 😏. So this will be a much enjoyable repair 😂
@@joseesquivel3749 that could be your problem. I haven't got them installed yet. Not this Monday but the next Monday after they get installed as well as completely building my rear end. I just uploaded the unboxing of the first part of mods yesterday. Then I went to summit racing for another mod that will get uploaded next week. But after I get the 4.10s installed I'll let you know for sure how they are
my dad's 2000 suburban makes a high pitched whining/humming sound when he's cruising. it's not high enough to be a squeal. it doesn't happen when he accelerates, decelerates, or takes his foot off the gas. it only happens when he is going between 45-60 mph and is giving it just enough gas to keep moving (cruising). i don't think it happens at 70+ mph (could be wrong). i've done some research but i wanted to see if anyone here had any ideas. also the sound fills the cabin so its hard to trace
interesting. that tool probably would help, but it's kinda expensive. i'm pretty sure the sound does not change with curves in the road, so it is most likely something to do with gears in the differential? what about wheel bearings? i had considered them awhile ago but it didn't make sense that the noise would stop if you let off the gas.
this would make a rumbling noise coming from the back of the vehicle. The noise would usually start at around 30-35mph and get louder as you go faster.
Hey what if I’m hearing that same drum noise from the rear but instead of it getting worse on accel it gets worse on decel like going 10mph its at the loudest?
@@doneropersaud1607, ok, the noise on the video is because a technician is moving the driveline up and down to view the amount of play. When the vehicle is moving it will cause a rumbling noise. depending on the parts that are worn it could make noise on acceleration or deceleration, Or both. When checking for a rear end noise you have to check to see if it's coming from the differential area or an axle bearing noise. We have a tool called the Chassis Ear that we put on different places on the rear end and we can listen as we drive down the road. You should be able to have a shop go for a ride with you and give you their opinion on what they would need to look at.
I just went and looked at an 01 Ford Sport Trac. As I drove faster, there was a ghostly sound coming from the rear. The seller said he had recently had the diff gasket changed because it was leaking and that the shop didnt say anything about the rearend being bad. Got worse when i was on the gas, and would stop when I laid off. About 40mph. No grinding or thudding. Straight road. Weirdest sound i ever heard. wooooooo..i had a nissan with rearend issues, this truck sounded more like the tire whir you hear with mudders..Not buying it if the rear is bad..
How do you think the pinion nut came loose? It is tightened to adjusted load on the pinion bearings on the crush sleeve. (Collapsible spacer). Do you think it's more likely that these nuts will come loose or that worn bearings will allow movement in the pinion shaft?
Ive been having an issue with my 04 f150 every since it was T boned (other ppl at fault) it was hit so bad that it bent the axle housing. They had to replace it. Now when coasting to a stop it sounds like something is dragging the ground (like a small piece of metal scrapping and pinging)... I believe its rear end related but not sure. Only does it when coasting to a stop.
sounds like the pinion nut may have came loose. The pinion is now slipping deeper into the differential, hitting and grinding against the carrier inside. It only happens when coasting to a stop because acceleration causes the pinion gear to pull towards the engine (opposite is true for reverse-cut gears found on some front axles). The pinion nut can come loose if they reused the old one which is a big no no. If the shop who did the work will not replace the pinion gear, then I would replace the gear oil and install a new pinion nut. When tightening the new nut, there is a crush sleeve that should have been crushed just the perfect amount to give the correct backspacing for the gears to mesh. When tightening the new nut, make sure not the crush this any further. I would go just fraction of a turn past the point that it starts crushing further. This worked for me when I had this same problem on my truck and no problems. Must use a NEW pinion nut!
I have a 4x4 GMC Sonoma with rear end issues. Is this the same rear end? It makes a rubbing/grinding sound when I brake. What should I be checking for? Just replaced the rear U-joint. Some sources say it could be an axle bearing but I don't know. I popped off the rear drums and everything looked alright, if only wearing a little crooked. But that's 151k miles for ya
Hi WarrenAutomotive, this sounds alot like what I think is going on with my diff..on decelleration only, you can just hear a pulsing sort of noise very like the noise here....bearings, do you think? How long do you think I can get away with using it until I get a chance to replace it?
My jeep makes a thump when taking off as well as when I decelerate thinking it's the pinion yoke already replaced ujoints anyone have a idea what it could be
the preload is usually an inch pound measurement of the rotational force to turn the pinion gear. after that you have to check the mating up of the ring and pinion gear.
doies it make a humming sound while driving? And if it does, does only make that humming sound when u accelerate? I have a lincoln town car and im having a humming sound from my rear differential axle.
the seal leaking could be just the seal leaking. When the seal leak isn't fixed - this is a possibility. Many vehicles can have the pinion seal replaced and not have bad bearings
@@Trucker-Belly, you have to remove the differential carrier to get the pinion gear out. Here is a video about the pinion bearings ua-cam.com/video/S61Ut8tOu1o/v-deo.html
@@WarrenAutomotive thanks for the response. When I had the nut and flange off today the shaft had a LOT of play so I assumed it was a bad bearing but behind the nut and washer was a bearing that came out. I inspected it and it seemed ok. While taking it all apart the Nut was loose and the flange didnt really need a puller bc it came out while I was snugging the puller by hand. After getting it back together it didnt really have any play anymore in the shaft. All I was trying to do was fix a leak from the pinion seal. Driving from Wa state to Illinois I could hear and feel a bang when cutting off the cruise control and it sounded like a U joint. The U joint was fine. I think the nut got loose and caused the bang and leak. Ive never done this before. I tightened the nut as hard as I could with a smaller wrench so I didnt crush the sleeve. Im still waiting to test drive it tomorrow with the new seal and tightened nut! I hope it gets me the 34 hrs back to Wa state!!! Thanks again.
the pinion bearings are bad. that's why there is play. Since the bearing have worn down inside the rear end the worn bits have traveled throughout the rear end. I would recommend a full rebuild or replace it with a good used one. You could just replace the pinion bearing, crush sleeve and pinion seal if that's all you can afford for now but just know that it might only be a temporary fix
you need to check for play in the trans, the differential or the u-joints. Something that has play that could cause the noise when a load is put on the drive train
Was the transmission in park and the wheels stationary for this?? I have a sound that I think sounds like an electric motor coming from the rear. At first I thought maybe a bad axle shaft bearing. Then I looked and saw some fluid on the pinion side of the diff. although it is very little, not enough to cause a drip in 2 days. ( so the seal is likely bad at least). could the bearings be bad without this movement. or do you think maybe it's the carrier bearings??
yes, the bearing usually goes bad and makes noise and then the bearings wear more and more. Some people notice the noise, some don't. You should have a shop check your vehicle to determine where your noise is coming from. An axle bearing is easier to repair. (in most cases, there are always strange things that can happen...)
A differential usually make noise before it goes out and makes it so the vehicle won't drive. You just look at the drive line and see if it turns. If it turns and the vehicle won't move then the rear end is broken some where. If the drive line doesn't turn then maybe a tranny problem
WarrenAutomotive hey, i think i have that issue, my 01 mustang reverses just fine but wont drive until after like 3-4K rpms. Im not sure what the issue is of why it would stall in drive but not reverse
On my 2002 Dodge Dakota. My differential doesn't leak. But has slop when I twist it . You can hear to clunk . Especially when I put it in reverse.. Any thoughts?
having some play is normal. if it gets to be too much you can get a clunk when there is a hard change of direction like going from drive to reverse and back. I wouldn't worry about it until it starts making noise while you are driving
yes, that is possible but not being set in correctly will show up very quickly. Usually within days of having the work done (if not right away) This type of wear is usually over time. months, years...
you should look for a specialty shop that can set up the whole rear end. the bearings that went bad send pieces through out the rear end. May need to have it completely redone or get a good used one with the same gear ratio
Justin i got same prob. This is what happen to mine...Got a question, I checked for play for the pinion bearings and I have no play... should my bearing be ok then? I just traded for a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and took it on a trip say hr away and it started a roaring sound. I ck it and was 2 quarts low gear oil. I filled it up but still had the roar. I then parked it when i got home. I have no play but the housing was hot hot when i ck oil level. Could the bearing have gottin hot and ruin them b4 i road it enough to get any play...
My truck makes a whirring sound at above 20mph that only gets louder and higher pitched the faster i go. It clunks a little when i just barely tap the gas, but then go right to whining when i step on it a little harder. Does this sound like a carrier bearing or pinion?
it sounds like it could be the pinion to ring gear clearance. you should have a shop check it out for you. When you do the pinion gear bearings the carrier has to come out so you should do all the bearings since you have the stuff already out.
I did a brake torque to light them up for my kid (Foolishly) and i suddenly heard a loud noise from the rear end, it's a 92 astro van, Now it is undrivable as when accelerating it kind of has a grinding noise that get worse while the rpm's are higher, then into 2nd gear grinds again, seems like when i let off the gas it calms down. Rules out locked up brakes as i went through the whole thing. Ran it on jackstands and it ran great when not under load but when i drive it under normal load, there it is again. Any suggestions as to where your expertise would tell you to check 1st? 2nd? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
you may have damaged the pinion bearings if it's a rumbling noise. If it's a banging noise you make have broken a tooth off the ring gear or a spider gear. you're probably going to have to take the cover off and see how it looks inside.
Thanks alot. Turned out to be the leadf spring mounts and the rear end was walkin on me. The U joint was bumping into the yoke. $32 for the pair a Rockauto madison wisconsin. Rockin price fast shipping, runnin like a raped ape now! LOL
+Ankit Rai If the pinion gear bearings get any type of damage or excessive wear the damage is multiplied because of the torque on the gear when accelerating of decelerating. So it beats itself up. When the bearings are bad enough (worn) they leave a gap between the bearing races so you get play or movement in the gear
WarrenAutomotive You're so right! In my case the bearing cups were not pressed right - had a gap between the housing & the cup. Push & pull from the shaft while accelerating & decelerating acted like an impact hammer - resulting in play.
not usually. if it feels like your vehicle is surging while you are driving I would look at the engine or transmission. drive with a graphing scanner and see what is changing when the surging is happening. Shifting in and out of overdrive, torque converter locking and unlocking, brake light coming on and off, throttle and/or fuel trims modulating...
WarrenAutomotive at first it would bind when i came to a stop and to start again took more throttle. Now it seems to be binding frequently. Im pretty sure its not the engine
You likely wont hear it clunk when driving as it would be spinning with centrifugal force. It would however likely has a bad pinion seal and leaking fluid which would lead you to inspect and find this problem.
both rear wheel bearings went bad. only the dealer could do it properly since no other shop could press them out. even the dealer had do use a torch lol. so that cost $475 WITH a family discount!!! still ended up costing me near $700 including labor
Got a question, I checked for play for the pinion bearings and I have no play... should my bearing be ok then? I just traded for it and took it on a trip say hr away and it started a roaring sound. I ck it was 2 quarts low. I filled it up but still had the roar. I then parked it when i got home. I have no play but the housing was hot hot when i ck oil level. Could the bearing have gottin hot and ruin them b4 i road it enough to get any play...
normally, when you hear rumbling from the rear end, the rear end has damage. There are other bearings besides the pinion bearing that could be the source of the noise. When you hear noise it because there is a bad spot on the race or a bad spot on a roller and when the weight of the vehicle rolls over the bad spot it makes noise. The more and more times that it gets run over the damaged area gets worse. After a while the bad spot wears others rollers and spreads on the race. There is nothing you can add to makes the noise go away after the damage has occurred. You should have a rear end specialty shop take a look at your vehicle.
When the side bearing goes bad, will it do the same? I am seeing looseness on the driver side - differential side bearing. ua-cam.com/video/QNehmQeV89M/v-deo.html . It is causing a clunk and whirrr noise. 150K on it and is a Torsen LSD type (2000 bmw z3 4.27 ratio).
Usually. once it starts to make noise, there is nothing you can do but replace parts. there is no lube it up with thicker stuff or anything like that. So, you can just keep an eye (and ear) on it to make sure it isn't unsafe. It will make noise for a while before it either becomes way too loud or it starts to leak at the pinion seal. that's when you take it apart and fix or replace it
@@WarrenAutomotive okay thanks.it drivers very well at the moment and only makes the howling noise at specific throttle positions between 30-35mph, and 50-58mph. My mech says its all good for a while, and there is zero play in the yoke at all. I'm doing a timing belt job which will cost 1k so I'm holding off on the diff until it gets worse or if i plan to go on a cross country trip. thanks dawg
😂😂It sounds like the drums from Jumanji
Omg yes it does 😂😂😂😂
Silly as hell 😂😂😂😭😭😭😭 indeed it does
Lol im high too.
Lol 😂😂😂
Can't get it outta my head since I've read this comment 🤣 gonna be working on my truck hearing drums😅🖕
different types of wear make different noises. You can have a rumbling noise all the time. you can have a rumbling and a whining when you accelerate. or you can have a whine on decel. Check the noise on turning. if the noise get less when you turn one way and louder when you turn the other way, it may be the axle bearings.
Usually thought, the noise on acceleration is a sign of the rear end needing repairs. Noise usually starts at around 30-35mph and gets worse the faster you go.
So opinion bearing noise usually starts 30-35 or bad rear? I have some noise that's worse on decel and Accel but not quite as bad as decel and only seems to happen around 30 plus mph. I can block it up and run it those speeds on blocks and kind of hear it when i let off then push the throttle to put a little strain on it at 35 or so. I have to make a 5 hour move pulling a trailer and really needing to identify this quickly so any good solid opinion would be awesome. Thanks
Man thank you very much! The noise in my k20 was so annoying when I got the car 6 years ago and it got worse and its only between 30 and 35mph then the noise blend in, I think I should have checked it when I changed the pinion seal, thanks for the info sir
I tried that. I tightened it too much and ruined the pinion bearings in my GM 10 bolt. Have to remove the diff to get an accurate measure on the bearing pre-load. Lesson learned for me. new bearings/races and crush sleeve properly installed solved it.
1:24 seconds of watching the drive shaft move. Good job
Nice video. Straight to the point.
Nut can come loose from someone changing the seal and not using a new replacement locknut or re-installing with the wrong pre-load.
it just looks like a lot of play for worn bearings.
My mom has a 97 GMC 2500 HD that she bought new in 97 and when my step dad died she drove it towards town to the funeral home to talk to them and half way into town the motor blew up. She had it towed back to her house and had us put it up on blocks until she could get a new motor. When I took her to get the motor put in the truck I asked the mechano to check the rear end fluid because it had been up on blocks for 12 years and the fluid might be low in the rear end. I thought he knew how to check it and he said when I asked about it that the fluid level was fine. So he finished installing the new block and putting everything back together. It started making hard shifts between all gears. I asked him if it could be anything else causing the hard shifts between gears and he said the New Transmission probably just needs to be broke in. I was putting new brake shoes on the back axle last week and while I had the rear end up on jacks I turned the wheel fast and then stopped it abruptly. I seen the rear differential move when I stopped the wheel from moving. I know it would make a noise when it's traveling down the street like a low squealing noise but this is a very hard shift between gears and a loud clunking noise coming from the rear end. It's so bad that I've already had to change all 3 Ujoints and the big center carrier bearing because the loud clunking damaged all them. Is it just the front digferencial bearing causing the issue ? OR could it be all the bearings in the rear end do to not enough fluid in the rear end ? Need to know because right now my mom just got her total knee replacement and I've got to take her to Theropy 3 times per week. I wish someone could help me figure out the clunking noise because it's new to me and I've never seen a floating axle do this. Could all gears be worn down from lack of fluid ?
Sounds like the gears are ate up in the spider gear,pion gear.
LOL. I have never had rear end problems until I bought a car featuring a "rebuilt rear end". Now I got rear end problems!! The bearings disintegrated and locked the rear end
Got the same problem with me 2007 mustang GT. It's got worse as time went on, luckily hasn't seized up or anything yet, and I got 4.10 gears to replace it 😏. So this will be a much enjoyable repair 😂
I might have this problem.. makes a whirring noise when decelerating... how are the 4.10s?
@@joseesquivel3749 that could be your problem. I haven't got them installed yet. Not this Monday but the next Monday after they get installed as well as completely building my rear end. I just uploaded the unboxing of the first part of mods yesterday. Then I went to summit racing for another mod that will get uploaded next week. But after I get the 4.10s installed I'll let you know for sure how they are
GT JON definitely check out your vids
@@joseesquivel3749 well thanks brotha I appreciate it. I will be sure to let you know how I like them after I get some drive time with them on
Aaaandddd...The verdict on the mustangs gearing is what?!
my dad's 2000 suburban makes a high pitched whining/humming sound when he's cruising. it's not high enough to be a squeal. it doesn't happen when he accelerates, decelerates, or takes his foot off the gas. it only happens when he is going between 45-60 mph and is giving it just enough gas to keep moving (cruising). i don't think it happens at 70+ mph (could be wrong). i've done some research but i wanted to see if anyone here had any ideas. also the sound fills the cabin so its hard to trace
I am having the same issue.
I used to live in Colorado. I managed to buy a lemon there once with differential issues.
interesting. that tool probably would help, but it's kinda expensive. i'm pretty sure the sound does not change with curves in the road, so it is most likely something to do with gears in the differential? what about wheel bearings? i had considered them awhile ago but it didn't make sense that the noise would stop if you let off the gas.
this would make a rumbling noise coming from the back of the vehicle. The noise would usually start at around 30-35mph and get louder as you go faster.
Hey what if I’m hearing that same drum noise from the rear but instead of it getting worse on accel it gets worse on decel like going 10mph its at the loudest?
@@doneropersaud1607, ok, the noise on the video is because a technician is moving the driveline up and down to view the amount of play. When the vehicle is moving it will cause a rumbling noise. depending on the parts that are worn it could make noise on acceleration or deceleration, Or both. When checking for a rear end noise you have to check to see if it's coming from the differential area or an axle bearing noise. We have a tool called the Chassis Ear that we put on different places on the rear end and we can listen as we drive down the road. You should be able to have a shop go for a ride with you and give you their opinion on what they would need to look at.
looks more like the pinion nut is loose.
I just went and looked at an 01 Ford Sport Trac. As I drove faster, there was a ghostly sound coming from the rear. The seller said he had recently had the diff gasket changed because it was leaking and that the shop didnt say anything about the rearend being bad. Got worse when i was on the gas, and would stop when I laid off. About 40mph. No grinding or thudding. Straight road. Weirdest sound i ever heard. wooooooo..i had a nissan with rearend issues, this truck sounded more like the tire whir you hear with mudders..Not buying it if the rear is bad..
How do you think the pinion nut came loose? It is tightened to adjusted load on the pinion bearings on the crush sleeve. (Collapsible spacer). Do you think it's more likely that these nuts will come loose or that worn bearings will allow movement in the pinion shaft?
dam astro vans are notorious for them going bad.
Think I got one now ! It's a Safari , but same thing ! Some noise but not to loud until I let off the gas and coast .
Ive been having an issue with my 04 f150 every since it was T boned (other ppl at fault) it was hit so bad that it bent the axle housing. They had to replace it. Now when coasting to a stop it sounds like something is dragging the ground (like a small piece of metal scrapping and pinging)... I believe its rear end related but not sure. Only does it when coasting to a stop.
you should take your truck back to the place that replaced your rear end and have them check it out. Did they give you a warranty on it?
sounds like the pinion nut may have came loose. The pinion is now slipping deeper into the differential, hitting and grinding against the carrier inside. It only happens when coasting to a stop because acceleration causes the pinion gear to pull towards the engine (opposite is true for reverse-cut gears found on some front axles). The pinion nut can come loose if they reused the old one which is a big no no. If the shop who did the work will not replace the pinion gear, then I would replace the gear oil and install a new pinion nut. When tightening the new nut, there is a crush sleeve that should have been crushed just the perfect amount to give the correct backspacing for the gears to mesh. When tightening the new nut, make sure not the crush this any further. I would go just fraction of a turn past the point that it starts crushing further. This worked for me when I had this same problem on my truck and no problems. Must use a NEW pinion nut!
Thank you for your wisdom sir!
only when accelerate.
What parts needs to be replaced.. Cos my vehicle has more play
I have a 4x4 GMC Sonoma with rear end issues. Is this the same rear end? It makes a rubbing/grinding sound when I brake. What should I be checking for? Just replaced the rear U-joint. Some sources say it could be an axle bearing but I don't know. I popped off the rear drums and everything looked alright, if only wearing a little crooked. But that's 151k miles for ya
Hi WarrenAutomotive, this sounds alot like what I think is going on with my diff..on decelleration only, you can just hear a pulsing sort of noise very like the noise here....bearings, do you think? How long do you think I can get away with using it until I get a chance to replace it?
Did you ever figure your issue out? Seems alot like mine
Hey did you ever figure out the problem?
My jeep makes a thump when taking off as well as when I decelerate thinking it's the pinion yoke already replaced ujoints anyone have a idea what it could be
Dude same omg! Ever figure out what it was?
I am guessing jack the car up so there is no weight on rear end. I this correct? Thank You.
What preload do you need if you replace pinion bearings and crush sleeve with the carrier and axles in it
the preload is usually an inch pound measurement of the rotational force to turn the pinion gear. after that you have to check the mating up of the ring and pinion gear.
doies it make a humming sound while driving? And if it does, does only make that humming sound when u accelerate? I have a lincoln town car and im having a humming sound from my rear differential axle.
If fluid is leaking from there is.that a tell tale sign
the seal leaking could be just the seal leaking. When the seal leak isn't fixed - this is a possibility. Many vehicles can have the pinion seal replaced and not have bad bearings
@@WarrenAutomotive so how do you replace the bearing? Do you have do disassemble the rear end or can you do it from the input side?
@@Trucker-Belly, you have to remove the differential carrier to get the pinion gear out. Here is a video about the pinion bearings
ua-cam.com/video/S61Ut8tOu1o/v-deo.html
@@WarrenAutomotive thanks for the response. When I had the nut and flange off today the shaft had a LOT of play so I assumed it was a bad bearing but behind the nut and washer was a bearing that came out. I inspected it and it seemed ok. While taking it all apart the Nut was loose and the flange didnt really need a puller bc it came out while I was snugging the puller by hand. After getting it back together it didnt really have any play anymore in the shaft. All I was trying to do was fix a leak from the pinion seal. Driving from Wa state to Illinois I could hear and feel a bang when cutting off the cruise control and it sounded like a U joint. The U joint was fine. I think the nut got loose and caused the bang and leak. Ive never done this before. I tightened the nut as hard as I could with a smaller wrench so I didnt crush the sleeve. Im still waiting to test drive it tomorrow with the new seal and tightened nut! I hope it gets me the 34 hrs back to Wa state!!! Thanks again.
@@Trucker-Belly did this solve the problem? I am having the same issues with 2002 trailblazer.
So whats the diagnosis and the fix???
the pinion bearings are bad. that's why there is play. Since the bearing have worn down inside the rear end the worn bits have traveled throughout the rear end. I would recommend a full rebuild or replace it with a good used one. You could just replace the pinion bearing, crush sleeve and pinion seal if that's all you can afford for now but just know that it might only be a temporary fix
how much does a fix like this cost
Between $1000 - $5000
i have a 88 mazda b2200 and I notice a "ping" type sound when putting my vehicle in 1st gear and reverse, any idea what it would be?
you need to check for play in the trans, the differential or the u-joints. Something that has play that could cause the noise when a load is put on the drive train
what would that sound like while being driven down the road?
heavy grinding and a lot of vibration in the chassis
bearing pre-load,,, i just went through all this.
How much $ to repair ? Just beatings or hole rebuild ?
Was the transmission in park and the wheels stationary for this?? I have a sound that I think sounds like an electric motor coming from the rear. At first I thought maybe a bad axle shaft bearing. Then I looked and saw some fluid on the pinion side of the diff. although it is very little, not enough to cause a drip in 2 days. ( so the seal is likely bad at least). could the bearings be bad without this movement. or do you think maybe it's the carrier bearings??
yes, the bearing usually goes bad and makes noise and then the bearings wear more and more. Some people notice the noise, some don't. You should have a shop check your vehicle to determine where your noise is coming from. An axle bearing is easier to repair. (in most cases, there are always strange things that can happen...)
Cool 🙃👍
can a bad differential cause a car not to drive???
A differential usually make noise before it goes out and makes it so the vehicle won't drive. You just look at the drive line and see if it turns. If it turns and the vehicle won't move then the rear end is broken some where. If the drive line doesn't turn then maybe a tranny problem
WarrenAutomotive hey, i think i have that issue, my 01 mustang reverses just fine but wont drive until after like 3-4K rpms. Im not sure what the issue is of why it would stall in drive but not reverse
On my 2002 Dodge Dakota. My differential doesn't leak. But has slop when I twist it . You can hear to clunk . Especially when I put it in reverse.. Any thoughts?
having some play is normal. if it gets to be too much you can get a clunk when there is a hard change of direction like going from drive to reverse and back. I wouldn't worry about it until it starts making noise while you are driving
Can they have just loosened because they were not set securely enough at the start?
yes, that is possible but not being set in correctly will show up very quickly. Usually within days of having the work done (if not right away) This type of wear is usually over time. months, years...
WarrenAutomotive
I need a full bearing,races, and seal job on my 1995 k-1500 WT
It moves like this one.
Do the companion yoke necks get ruined this way?
they can be if you let it go long enough. the housing can also be damaged
you should look for a specialty shop that can set up the whole rear end. the bearings that went bad send pieces through out the rear end. May need to have it completely redone or get a good used one with the same gear ratio
Got a question, I checked for play for the pinion bearings and I have no play... should my bearing be ok then?
Justin i got same prob. This is what happen to mine...Got a question, I checked for play for the pinion bearings and I have no play... should my bearing be ok then? I just traded for a 2000 Jeep Cherokee and took it on a trip say hr away and it started a roaring sound. I ck it and was 2 quarts low gear oil. I filled it up but still had the roar. I then parked it when i got home. I have no play but the housing was hot hot when i ck oil level. Could the bearing have gottin hot and ruin them b4 i road it enough to get any play...
Did u ever get a answer to your question
@@kevinferrell1739 On my cherokee it was bad diff holder bearings that caused the sound
Did you ever figure it out Kevin? I have the same issue
@@kevinferrell1739 lmk
If you think that's bad, you should see mine. Lol
My truck makes a whirring sound at above 20mph that only gets louder and higher pitched the faster i go. It clunks a little when i just barely tap the gas, but then go right to whining when i step on it a little harder. Does this sound like a carrier bearing or pinion?
M T yes
sounds like pinion to me but you should have a shop check it out for you
it sounds like it could be the pinion to ring gear clearance. you should have a shop check it out for you. When you do the pinion gear bearings the carrier has to come out so you should do all the bearings since you have the stuff already out.
what's the price range on fixing one ???
it depends on what you find when you get inside. any where from a few hundred dollars to over a thousand dollars plus
Does it have to be off the ground
no it doesn't. Raising it in the air just makes it easier to see how much movement it has. (plus, I could stand up and not have to crawl underneath)
I did a brake torque to light them up for my kid (Foolishly) and i suddenly heard a loud noise from the rear end, it's a 92 astro van, Now it is undrivable as when accelerating it kind of has a grinding noise that get worse while the rpm's are higher, then into 2nd gear grinds again, seems like when i let off the gas it calms down. Rules out locked up brakes as i went through the whole thing. Ran it on jackstands and it ran great when not under load but when i drive it under normal load, there it is again. Any suggestions as to where your expertise would tell you to check 1st? 2nd? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
you may have damaged the pinion bearings if it's a rumbling noise. If it's a banging noise you make have broken a tooth off the ring gear or a spider gear. you're probably going to have to take the cover off and see how it looks inside.
Thanks alot. Turned out to be the leadf spring mounts and the rear end was walkin on me. The U joint was bumping into the yoke. $32 for the pair a Rockauto madison wisconsin. Rockin price fast shipping, runnin like a raped ape now! LOL
Can a bad pinion bearing cause I constant tapping noise when coasting. not when accelerating. just when coasting or deceleration?
Jordan Hankins yes I'd recommend not driving the vehicle as I blew the guts out of my diff merely a week after hearing the noise
Tyler Wellington so was it the pinion bearing? what caused it? I just replaced the whole differential carrier. and carrier bearings
Hey, what was the problem? Was it the differential?
Any idea what caused the play?
+Ankit Rai If the pinion gear bearings get any type of damage or excessive wear the damage is multiplied because of the torque on the gear when accelerating of decelerating. So it beats itself up. When the bearings are bad enough (worn) they leave a gap between the bearing races so you get play or movement in the gear
WarrenAutomotive You're so right! In my case the bearing cups were not pressed right - had a gap between the housing & the cup. Push & pull from the shaft while accelerating & decelerating acted like an impact hammer - resulting in play.
Is it easy to change à bearing ?
no, it's not very easy. Some special tools are needed to set this up.
Can this cause the gear to bind? Making it feel like theengine is surging
not usually. if it feels like your vehicle is surging while you are driving I would look at the engine or transmission. drive with a graphing scanner and see what is changing when the surging is happening. Shifting in and out of overdrive, torque converter locking and unlocking, brake light coming on and off, throttle and/or fuel trims modulating...
WarrenAutomotive at first it would bind when i came to a stop and to start again took more throttle. Now it seems to be binding frequently. Im pretty sure its not the engine
WarrenAutomotive thanks for your response
Would this make a noise like I had a flat spot on the tires, it makes a similar noise while hes just moving it. 05 tundra.
You likely wont hear it clunk when driving as it would be spinning with centrifugal force. It would however likely has a bad pinion seal and leaking fluid which would lead you to inspect and find this problem.
Also, other issues would be a backed off pinion nut or over crushed crush sleeve.
both rear wheel bearings went bad. only the dealer could do it properly since no other shop could press them out. even the dealer had do use a torch lol. so that cost $475 WITH a family discount!!! still ended up costing me near $700 including labor
trooper3030 Ouch. Well at least you get it fixed. Odd both wheel bearing would go bad though
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how much does this to replace?
about dollars.
so what fixes that movement/slop...?
new bearings. It's cheaper however to get a new axle
:51 OHHHHH!!! that explains it!!! It's a chevy.
Got a question, I checked for play for the pinion bearings and I have no play... should my bearing be ok then? I just traded for it and took it on a trip say hr away and it started a roaring sound. I ck it was 2 quarts low. I filled it up but still had the roar. I then parked it when i got home. I have no play but the housing was hot hot when i ck oil level. Could the bearing have gottin hot and ruin them b4 i road it enough to get any play...
normally, when you hear rumbling from the rear end, the rear end has damage. There are other bearings besides the pinion bearing that could be the source of the noise. When you hear noise it because there is a bad spot on the race or a bad spot on a roller and when the weight of the vehicle rolls over the bad spot it makes noise. The more and more times that it gets run over the damaged area gets worse. After a while the bad spot wears others rollers and spreads on the race. There is nothing you can add to makes the noise go away after the damage has occurred. You should have a rear end specialty shop take a look at your vehicle.
ok, Just tighten the nut and keep driving.
Jumanji
When the side bearing goes bad, will it do the same? I am seeing looseness on the driver side - differential side bearing. ua-cam.com/video/QNehmQeV89M/v-deo.html . It is causing a clunk and whirrr noise. 150K on it and is a Torsen LSD type (2000 bmw z3 4.27 ratio).
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That van should be in a junkyard, the repair will cost more than that POS. It has gone passed its lifespan.
Crankestein Loskon that's a CHEVY for you going past normal lifespans
Crankestein
Yes lets junk the vehicle just because it needs a bearing or a swap out for a good used diff.
Pfffft...
My pinion just started to whine at certain speeds, my mech says I'm good for a while. Sound about right? Thanks
Usually. once it starts to make noise, there is nothing you can do but replace parts. there is no lube it up with thicker stuff or anything like that. So, you can just keep an eye (and ear) on it to make sure it isn't unsafe. It will make noise for a while before it either becomes way too loud or it starts to leak at the pinion seal. that's when you take it apart and fix or replace it
@@WarrenAutomotive okay thanks.it drivers very well at the moment and only makes the howling noise at specific throttle positions between 30-35mph, and 50-58mph. My mech says its all good for a while, and there is zero play in the yoke at all. I'm doing a timing belt job which will cost 1k so I'm holding off on the diff until it gets worse or if i plan to go on a cross country trip. thanks dawg