The voltage stabilizer ( or regulator as you call it) is designed to supply a steady 10 volts to the temp and petrol gauges. (Actually the original stabilizers are electro mechanical and only simulate 10 volts) You should not use full 12v battery current to accurately test the gauges. There are many sender units being sold as being suitable for our cars, unfortunately few will give the readings we might expect.
Thank you very much, would you try making a video on ALL the gauges in the dashboard so we ALL can diagnose each Smiths gauge and accurately know what’s working and what’s not… thanks again.. Salute
The middle of the gauge should be a running temp of approx 75 degrees C and the H 100 degrees C. Senders are negative temperature coefficient, resistance of senders possibly too high. The gauges can be adjusted. Takes some faffing about , use thermometers, the slots behind the tiny cork plugs on the back of the gauges, when moved, will affect the needle. Be prepared to spend hours to get it perfect. Gauge needs to return to zero when off, moving the slots will affect rest and running positions of the needle. Doable but will chew up some time. After all, you did say you have some OCD in you.
The voltage stabilizer ( or regulator as you call it) is designed to supply a steady 10 volts to the temp and petrol gauges.
(Actually the original stabilizers are electro mechanical and only simulate 10 volts)
You should not use full 12v battery current to accurately test the gauges.
There are many sender units being sold as being suitable for our cars, unfortunately few will give the readings we might expect.
thanks for watching
Simple clear and pleasant as always. Thanks
My pleasure. Thanks for the feedback and watching 👍
Nice demo! Thanks. Have the same problem on my 1500 midget.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching
Great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you ! Helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Many thanks from Hamburg, Germany. My car is a 74 tr6 pi rhd with only 56.000 miles from new, imported in 1980. I have subscribed!
Welcome aboard!
Thank you very much, would you try making a video on ALL the gauges in the dashboard so we ALL can diagnose each Smiths gauge and accurately know what’s working and what’s not… thanks again.. Salute
as they need work, ill be sure to video the diagnosis
The middle of the gauge should be a running temp of approx 75 degrees C and the H 100 degrees C.
Senders are negative temperature coefficient, resistance of senders possibly too high.
The gauges can be adjusted.
Takes some faffing about , use thermometers, the slots behind the tiny cork plugs on the back of the gauges, when moved, will affect the needle.
Be prepared to spend hours to get it perfect.
Gauge needs to return to zero when off, moving the slots will affect rest and running positions of the needle.
Doable but will chew up some time.
After all, you did say you have some OCD in you.
Nice tip. Thanks
Exactly the same issue on my 73! Thanks for working through the issue. Is it not better though for the engine to run cooler?
as i live in the UK the hotter thermostat is not a problem. you might want to avoid it in a hot climate though
Guessing my temp sensor has failed on my 76 triumph 2500 as the gauge works when I put it on the oil pressure sensor
thanks for watching