flushing through the drain that way clears very little of the sediment out of the tank. It just removes a thin line down the middle. I have an electric water heater. What I do every couple of years is kill power and shut off the input water to it. I then drain it completely. Next, I remove the lower heating element. I have a 5' length of garden hose that I cut from an old hose. I duct tape that to the nozzle on my wet/dry vac, then I use it to vacuum all of the sediment out of the bottom of the tank. Works very well. I always check the sacrificial anode at the same time, and replace if necessary. I also check the pressure relief valve frequently. Several times per year. In my area, what mostly collects in the tank are little chips of calcium carbonate. If you don't flush it this way, and either don't flush it at all, or if you do the method in this video, the tank will fill up to the bottom element within about 5 or 6 years and cause it to burn out.
Agree. The minerals are heavier than the water and unless agitated will remain mostly in the bottom of the tank. I have been PM'ing my electric water heater similar to your process. But I have to drain overnight (due to minerals clogging the OEM drain valve). Remove lower element. Fashion a series of reducers to my shop vac down to a garden hose. Insert into lower element hole and move round to suck out minerals. BUT... I bought a borescope camera now and last PM I sucked out the minerals as usual from the lower element hole. Then I inserted the borescope into the tank and WOW! I could not believe how much I missed. Particularly around the element hole where the hose couldn't bend to reach. I solved the problem by installing a 3/4" full port ball valve in place of the OEM drain valve. Now when I open the valve the rush of the massive volume of water forces most of the sediment out. No clogs. I open the cold inlet valve to add maybe 5-10 gallons in the tank then open the drain valve again to get the last of the sediment. The full port drain valve with a garden hose adapter fitting on the end was the holy grail.
So at this point your videos just end up getting added to my honey do list for the weekend, just flushed mine and was amazed at the gunk that came out. Even with what I thought was a pretty decent filter setup I had put together. As usual thank you for this tip.
If you have real hard water be careful. my tank built up tons of crystals from the previous owners and when I tried to flush, the rocks got stuck in the valve down there where it wouldn't shut off. The crystals were so big in there nothing would come out. If it gets to that point where you hear a lot of noise when it's running, it may be too late for you. But those little rocks will destroy elements as they slosh around in there so make sure you do this often, especially more often the harder your water is. But have one of those caps handy like he showed in case you get crystals jamming up your valve.
I have the Pentair one from Home Depot. But i think it’s identical to the Pelican and other models. There’s multiple variations. I have a 3 stage unit with a filter, then a larger carbon tank, then a water conditioner. They have a UV light option but it was only recommend if you’re on well water. It eliminated the chlorine smell in our home water supply. And the water taste great.
Great advice. I have three AO Smith self cleaning water heaters in my properties.. I open the valve into a bucket every 3-4 months. First bucket is usually a little brown. Second bucket is clear. If I forgot to do it and wait 6-8 months, then the first two bucket are dark brown. It takes 4-5 buckets for it to clear out. Ive been doing ever sonce my water heaters new 16 yrs ago. They are all going strong. It's so easy to do, especially with the self cleaning heaters. The sediment gets stirred up alot when you open the valve
And if you have the original drain valve on the tank and you have hard water, the minerals will probably quickly clog the drain valve. My first two water heater PM's took 13 hours each to drain the tank. Then I installed a full port ball valve (see my above comment) and problem solved.
When I installed my water heater, I replaced the junk plastic drain valve with a real (brass) one, knowing about that problem. I'm glad you mentioned that concern!
I used to work as a plumber, and it was really common that the PoS plastic valve would break. I've had them break halfway open, full open, and once completely broke off. My water heater was made in 1986, still works fine, but has probably never been flushed and has the plastic valve on it. I'm not touching it, I'm just going to replace the whole heater in the near future.
@@milesparris4045 I really wish they'd put real ones on at the factory. I get it, most people never use it, but still. And yeah, when it comes to ancient water heaters, it's a case of leave it alone until it dies.
Wife says we got brownish orange water in the sink with Cold water. And a few times with hot water years ago in the bathtub. I'm thinking it was just the lines out in the neighborhood being worked on but thankyou for this video! I probably really need to do this! I will probably get a big boost in hot water capacity too.
Thanks this is timely every video on the subject talked about turning off the water, which I did. I have tons of sediment that I can’t get out. I’m going to get my drainage all set up and turn the water back on until it gets cleaned out. I bought a threaded 3/4” pvc extension as the plastic drain was leaking (started this entire process for me) and was too narrow for the sediment to exit
I did this yesterday. So easy! It took about 15 minutes for the water to get clear. My water heater had one of those plastic valves. Had to use a flathead screwdriver to open and close the valve. Water was thick gunky brown at first, but now nice and clear. I think the water heater is about 15 years old, and as far as I know never been flushed. Well water....don't know if it would have been better or worse on county water.
On mine, recommendation in manual is to do this once/month, but just drain off a few gallons at a time. I drain off for about a minute and call it a day. I just connected a short hose and route it to the same drain that the condensation from the furnace drains to, just leave it there...makes draining once per month a breeze.
if you have one of them refrigerated water tanks (yes that is right there is a refrigeration unit with compressor and freon gas doing the heating instead of gas or electric heating elements). refrigerated water heaters have a heat exchanger that takes the heat from the compression of the freon gas and puts it into the water. such water heaters are even more expensive as they have a refrigeration unit but supposedly they are a lot more efficient and can save money and repairing one of them or replacing one can be quite a bit maybe over $2000 or even $3000.
This was great. BUT when I had the problem you describe at the end with the valve, just capping it wasn't enough. It was leaking out of the valve itself. Fortunately, in my case it stopped after a couple hours -- which is a mystery. Unfortunately I did a crummy job of flushing it and would like to do something more like you've described here, but I'm afraid if I do it won't stop dripping and I'll need to call a plumber.
I was thinking exactly that and the fact that a large amount of scale has probably already built up on the heating elements thus reducing efficiency. A simple flush won't take care of either of those items, but a flush is better than nothing.
How do you do that? Is there another valve on top? I started draining mine and it was really bad for almost 10 minutes so I stopped until I got some new information and advice. I live in FL and have pretty bad water… I have filters on my sinks and showers but even still the shower makes your hair feel crunchy and gross… I moved here recently and so I definitely need to deal with this now…
An idea for a future video - remind viewers at the same time they're flushing they should be replacing the sacrificial anodes screwed into the tank from the top, and if they're shopping for a new tank, to ALWAYS buy one that has anode(s) - it costs more but it prevents corrosion in the tank (different than rusting).
This. A new anode rod is $30-40 usually and replacing it is simple. My first home I replaced the rod shortly after we moved in and the tank was about 11 or 12 years old already. I replaced it again about 4 years later and sold the home about year later with a 17+ year old water heater. I am surprised that there is no floor drain there next to the tank.
@@marciamarcia7449 many water heaters have a sacrificial anode rod that deteriorates so that the metal of the tank doesn’t. Even though the inside of most tanks are coated to decrease exposure of the metal to the water, often micro cracks still allow water contact with the metal that will rot them out. You can search UA-cam for water tank anode rod and see what it’s all about
@@marciamarcia7449 look up "water heater anode rod" if you like. Replacing it every 3-6 years is the only other maintenance (in addition to flushing every year) that a tank type water heater needs.
Only flush the tank if it’s been Routinely flushed. If it’s been 5-10 years and never flushed just leave it be or you could spring a leak and cause more headaches. Replacing the anode rode every 3-5 years is a much better alternative and preventative measure
That sounds similar to the old transmission fluid rule: If it never got changed by the schedule just leave it in until it dies as the change could upset the equilibrium that held the worn parts together or something like that.
So, if I plan on replacing it since it’s more than 10 years old and came with the house with no maintenance history, I could try it and it if leaks I just replace it. Otherwise, new anode and I’d be good ?
@@arakwar you can try that. Or just do the anode road. If you spring a leak you’ll be out the whole tank but if it’s ten years old it’s near the end of its life
@@Dan-ef4jz Can you elaborate on why it is risky to flush a tank if either it hasn't been flushed routinely or if you recently bought the house and don't know the maintenance record? If it hasn't been routinely flushed, then there could be dramatic sediment build up....but how would attempting to drain it now cause a leak? Thank you for clarifying.
As a home inspector, we were trained to recommend training a couple gallons each month. That way also the valve does not corrode and stays usable. Also for my home, I use the trentotron magnets on the pipes to suspend the iron and so on in the water and so it does not settle as easily.
An even more important maintenance chore is to check the anode rod and replace it if needed. No amount of flushing the tank will help if the insides of the tank are being dissolved away. Also your comment about not wearing shorts is wrong. Shorts is better. If you get hot water on your legs, it will easily mover through denim or other cloth material. Plus it will STAY there even while removing your pants. Better to have exposed skin where the water won't be held and where cold water can be applied directly. If applied to hot, wet cloth, the cold water has to cool all that down, then seep through the cloth before it can cool the skin. Best to wear something like fishing John's which are waterproof. Better yet watch what you're doing.
just finished doing this on my mobile in florida...the tank was a 2005 vintage unit and I doubt it was ever flushed. there was probably 5 lbs of calcium in the bottom coming out. drained and flushed it several time before I finally got clear water. all the taps in the unit were jammed with small particles.
Would you please do a video on RO/DI filtering systems for drinking water? I’m currently using the Zero Water filters and it’s costing a small fortune, and they no longer last as long like they did many years ago. Thank you 🙏!
Hello. I am in NH too and appreciate your channel. I just wanted to confirm I understand your method. You are not turning anything off, correct? So you leave both hot and cold water valves on, as well as the pilot (if gas) or electricity (if electric)? And you make no adjustments to your furnace? The only thing you do is open the water spigot/drain valve on the bottom and drain the water while the unit continues to run as normal, correct? I have seen other methods suggested on you tube where they do shut off the hot water valve, etc so I just wanted to make sure I understood. Thank you!!
Mine water heater never had its tank flush for 26 years, finally the TP weld sprung a leak & I had replaced. The water from the new water heater, had a lots of air and air bubbles and pretty milky… I will wait another couple of days, if it doesn’t improve, I will call the plumber back.😢
How would you store used heat pump all in one water systems. Thinking of spraying rp7 on connectors and inside water container to keep any corrosion at bay. I will take out anodes and inspect them and replace if necessary. I'll leave ports open for air to circulate.correct? Or...
Thanks for sharing. I need to flush my tank has brownish color water through the faucet. my question is you mentioned you don’t have to turn off the power to do this procedure. Just attach the hose open the valve and drain. Is this correct?
I must say, I haven't seen this method of opening the drain valve while the tank is working. It sounds like a good idea in theory, but is this safe to do? Seems a little risky...
This is my first time flushing my hot water heater. I don't want to make a mistake, so I had two questions if anybody could chime in with some advice? 1) Do you turn off the hot & cold water wines connected to the top of the hot water heater while flushing it. 2) Do you keep the hot water heater turned on while you're flushing it?
I have a utility sink about 8 feet from my hot water tank in my basement. Would the water pressure be enough to "pressure flush" it? I have a hose I would trim to fit so there isn't useless hose for the water to flow through.
"Now you can use your own water pressure to push ..." 1:33 Please elaborate, how are you using water pressure to aid in flushing? Are you also running your hose to pull water from your water heater? Or maybe forcing water back through your heater drain hose to agitate the contents?
He never turned off the water to completely drain the tank so the tank still had full pressure from the well’s bladder tank. The water had roughly 40 psi behind it instead of 6 feet of head if the water were off and it was gravity draining.
He should have used a full port 3/4” ball valve and when your flushing the tank you are using the incoming water pressure to push out the sediment build up in side the tank. Turn on the valve for 5 minutes then off for 5 minutes then repeat the process 4x every 6 months.
Our water heater has never been drained and unfortunately when you open the valve nothing comes out. I even tried opening it and blowing some air up inside... nothing. So best to just leave it alone at this point. When it needs replacement I will pump the water out from the top.
That is what I would do. If you are doing it the way he did, where the inlet water stays on and the tank stays full, it doesn't really matter. If you turn the water inlet off and fully drain the tank, you need to turn it down to "pilot" until you refill the tank.
did you use a special hose rated for hot water or anything? this is what I am worried about, the hose failing because it isn't made to run hot water and having issues with all that water in my garage
Dear Silver, This is Enla from Aolithum battery, our new 12V100Ah batteries have been in stock. I have sent you an e-mail to confirm the release date of the video. If you are busy with other projects and will delay the post of the review video, please let me know. Tks.
Sulphur smells are typically from the sacrificial anode reacting with your water. If it smells when you first turn it on but then clears, it’s likely the anode.
Anode rod. But might be time to replace the entire unit. If anode or flushing haven't been done regularly and it's past it typical life span, (6,9 or 12 years usually) then it might be so full of crude that you'll never get it back to how it should operate.
My hot water smells really bad. Do you think this will solve my issue? I’ve heard there’s also some kind of electrode or rod in the heater that may need to be replaced?
Correct. Almost all water heaters have a sacrificial anode that purposefully corrodes in a manner to protect the tank from corroding. It needs to be routinely replaced. Lots of YT videos on how to do this. The odor, in most cases, is that process functioning as intended. There are different types of anodes, and it appears the cheapest magnesium ones result in the odor. I’m on well water and have a whole home filter/softener so my anode lasts about a year before the odor gets too much. I just installed an electrical anode (corro-protect). Will see what a year brings.
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Did you have your water heater in the basement and drain it a floor above you? Did the pressure work?
flushing through the drain that way clears very little of the sediment out of the tank. It just removes a thin line down the middle. I have an electric water heater. What I do every couple of years is kill power and shut off the input water to it. I then drain it completely. Next, I remove the lower heating element. I have a 5' length of garden hose that I cut from an old hose. I duct tape that to the nozzle on my wet/dry vac, then I use it to vacuum all of the sediment out of the bottom of the tank. Works very well.
I always check the sacrificial anode at the same time, and replace if necessary. I also check the pressure relief valve frequently. Several times per year.
In my area, what mostly collects in the tank are little chips of calcium carbonate. If you don't flush it this way, and either don't flush it at all, or if you do the method in this video, the tank will fill up to the bottom element within about 5 or 6 years and cause it to burn out.
Will you come do my tank in Lima NY? 😁
Agree. The minerals are heavier than the water and unless agitated will remain mostly in the bottom of the tank. I have been PM'ing my electric water heater similar to your process. But I have to drain overnight (due to minerals clogging the OEM drain valve). Remove lower element. Fashion a series of reducers to my shop vac down to a garden hose. Insert into lower element hole and move round to suck out minerals. BUT... I bought a borescope camera now and last PM I sucked out the minerals as usual from the lower element hole. Then I inserted the borescope into the tank and WOW! I could not believe how much I missed. Particularly around the element hole where the hose couldn't bend to reach. I solved the problem by installing a 3/4" full port ball valve in place of the OEM drain valve. Now when I open the valve the rush of the massive volume of water forces most of the sediment out. No clogs. I open the cold inlet valve to add maybe 5-10 gallons in the tank then open the drain valve again to get the last of the sediment. The full port drain valve with a garden hose adapter fitting on the end was the holy grail.
So at this point your videos just end up getting added to my honey do list for the weekend, just flushed mine and was amazed at the gunk that came out. Even with what I thought was a pretty decent filter setup I had put together. As usual thank you for this tip.
I did it and added a step of opening the hot water falve and now I got water dripping from both side. HOW CAN I REPAIR THIS?
If you have real hard water be careful. my tank built up tons of crystals from the previous owners and when I tried to flush, the rocks got stuck in the valve down there where it wouldn't shut off. The crystals were so big in there nothing would come out. If it gets to that point where you hear a lot of noise when it's running, it may be too late for you. But those little rocks will destroy elements as they slosh around in there so make sure you do this often, especially more often the harder your water is. But have one of those caps handy like he showed in case you get crystals jamming up your valve.
Oh no. I hear those sounds on mine 😑
On the topic of this I would also highly recommend checking the anode rod and making sure that doesn’t need to be replaced either.
Absolutely needs to be checked every other year.
Definitely, the anode rod should be checked every year if you use a water softener or hard water with a high mineral content.
and how do you do this part? @@carbonking53
I would also recommend a 3 stage whole house water filtering system. Easy to install and makes a huge difference.
Got a link for something like what you're talking about?
I’d like to know a link too
I answered this question several times and it always got deleted.
@@sirwolly it’s almost impossible to post links to anything now, only porn sites and scammers can successfully do it.
I have the Pentair one from Home Depot. But i think it’s identical to the Pelican and other models. There’s multiple variations. I have a 3 stage unit with a filter, then a larger carbon tank, then a water conditioner. They have a UV light option but it was only recommend if you’re on well water.
It eliminated the chlorine smell in our home water supply. And the water taste great.
Great advice. I have three AO Smith self cleaning water heaters in my properties.. I open the valve into a bucket every 3-4 months. First bucket is usually a little brown. Second bucket is clear. If I forgot to do it and wait 6-8 months, then the first two bucket are dark brown. It takes 4-5 buckets for it to clear out. Ive been doing ever sonce my water heaters new 16 yrs ago. They are all going strong. It's so easy to do, especially with the self cleaning heaters. The sediment gets stirred up alot when you open the valve
Great tips! I would turn off the water heater a day before so I could use the water on my lawn or shrubs and not boil them.
And if you have the original drain valve on the tank and you have hard water, the minerals will probably quickly clog the drain valve. My first two water heater PM's took 13 hours each to drain the tank. Then I installed a full port ball valve (see my above comment) and problem solved.
When I installed my water heater, I replaced the junk plastic drain valve with a real (brass) one, knowing about that problem. I'm glad you mentioned that concern!
I used to work as a plumber, and it was really common that the PoS plastic valve would break. I've had them break halfway open, full open, and once completely broke off. My water heater was made in 1986, still works fine, but has probably never been flushed and has the plastic valve on it. I'm not touching it, I'm just going to replace the whole heater in the near future.
@@milesparris4045 I really wish they'd put real ones on at the factory. I get it, most people never use it, but still. And yeah, when it comes to ancient water heaters, it's a case of leave it alone until it dies.
@@bmay8818 I'm sure they don't put "real ones" on because of cost, and you're right, most people never drain them.
Wife says we got brownish orange water in the sink with Cold water. And a few times with hot water years ago in the bathtub. I'm thinking it was just the lines out in the neighborhood being worked on but thankyou for this video! I probably really need to do this! I will probably get a big boost in hot water capacity too.
Thanks this is timely every video on the subject talked about turning off the water, which I did. I have tons of sediment that I can’t get out. I’m going to get my drainage all set up and turn the water back on until it gets cleaned out. I bought a threaded 3/4” pvc extension as the plastic drain was leaking (started this entire process for me) and was too narrow for the sediment to exit
Thanks for that breakdown. It seems pretty intimidating but you showed how easy it is. Thank you again! Long time fan BTW.
“It seems intimidating.” It’s draining water from a tank not rocket science.
I did this yesterday. So easy! It took about 15 minutes for the water to get clear. My water heater had one of those plastic valves. Had to use a flathead screwdriver to open and close the valve. Water was thick gunky brown at first, but now nice and clear. I think the water heater is about 15 years old, and as far as I know never been flushed. Well water....don't know if it would have been better or worse on county water.
You motivated me to flush my two water heaters. I'm really looking forward to upcoming videos from the new house!
On mine, recommendation in manual is to do this once/month, but just drain off a few gallons at a time. I drain off for about a minute and call it a day. I just connected a short hose and route it to the same drain that the condensation from the furnace drains to, just leave it there...makes draining once per month a breeze.
That brownish water I don't waste by using it on flower beds and lawn. Free dissolved minerals.
@@nickg9021
Of course I allow it to cool. But thanks! 😁
“Scalding hot, better to not wear shorts” **proceeds to wear shorts.
Knew someone also thinking this
Can I flush my hot water heater without damaging it even if I haven't done it for 3 years straight
Professional!,,
Do as i say, not as i do.
@@moparfamily814Yes. Yes you can.
if you have one of them refrigerated water tanks (yes that is right there is a refrigeration unit with compressor and freon gas doing the heating instead of gas or electric heating elements).
refrigerated water heaters have a heat exchanger that takes the heat from the compression of the freon gas and puts it into the water.
such water heaters are even more expensive as they have a refrigeration unit but supposedly they are a lot more efficient and can save money and repairing one of them or replacing one can be quite a bit maybe over $2000 or even $3000.
This was great. BUT when I had the problem you describe at the end with the valve, just capping it wasn't enough. It was leaking out of the valve itself. Fortunately, in my case it stopped after a couple hours -- which is a mystery. Unfortunately I did a crummy job of flushing it and would like to do something more like you've described here, but I'm afraid if I do it won't stop dripping and I'll need to call a plumber.
Nice vid, I had an indirect fired water tank installed last month, this was very much on my mind, will do it Sunday, good vid.
Got a video about replacing the sacrificial anode in the tank? If not, might make for a good video.
I was thinking exactly that and the fact that a large amount of scale has probably already built up on the heating elements thus reducing efficiency. A simple flush won't take care of either of those items, but a flush is better than nothing.
I was planning to buy a New Water Heater...Thanks for the Video on a better way to keep it clean.
Don't forget to replace your anode rod!!!
"Thank You!", Mr. Cymbal!
Reminded me I needed to drain my water heater again since it had been 15 or 16 years.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
That tank doesn’t look 12 years old! Congrats on the new house!
One in the house I'm working on now was 20 years old and it was never flushed and oddly the water was clear.
@@charliemartin-k7m Ours is 15 years old and water is crystal clear. Never been flushed. It SHOULD have been, but was never done.
Do you have any suggestions on a whole house water softener or filtration system?
Great info. I use the links in your descriptions to add to my cart. Boom. So easy.
Here in West Texas, if you get 10 years from a water heater you did great...most are 6 - 8 year life...
Thanks. I didnt know there were end caps for the spigot. Ordering now.
You should also be testing the pressure relief valve while you do thay.
I will definitely be checking that one, but I will do it separately. If it still holds I will be amazed.
Just replaced an elective 12 year old 50 gallon water heater tank yesterday. It was $700 from Home Depot for a Rheem with a 9 year warranty.
$700 with installation
$7-1000 installation
This was awesome, thank you!!! 🌸
Thank you, glad it was helpful
Thanks for this- began to hear poping noises in garage after running hot water & had no idea what was happening.
After you drain it you could open the cold water valve so it hits the bottom of the tank and gets some more sediment out, just another tip!
How do you do that? Is there another valve on top?
I started draining mine and it was really bad for almost 10 minutes so I stopped until I got some new information and advice.
I live in FL and have pretty bad water… I have filters on my sinks and showers but even still the shower makes your hair feel crunchy and gross…
I moved here recently and so I definitely need to deal with this now…
Very useful information. Love this channel!!
Much appreciated!
Thank You sooo much for making it look easy. And love the tips too.
Short, simple and straight to the point! Good tip on the cap too. (I didn’t even have to speed it up! Lol)
Wow this is one I didn't know about thanks for the tip !
An idea for a future video - remind viewers at the same time they're flushing they should be replacing the sacrificial anodes screwed into the tank from the top, and if they're shopping for a new tank, to ALWAYS buy one that has anode(s) - it costs more but it prevents corrosion in the tank (different than rusting).
This. A new anode rod is $30-40 usually and replacing it is simple. My first home I replaced the rod shortly after we moved in and the tank was about 11 or 12 years old already. I replaced it again about 4 years later and sold the home about year later with a 17+ year old water heater.
I am surprised that there is no floor drain there next to the tank.
what annode are you talking about? He's showing a simple task of just draining..wtf
@@marciamarcia7449 many water heaters have a sacrificial anode rod that deteriorates so that the metal of the tank doesn’t. Even though the inside of most tanks are coated to decrease exposure of the metal to the water, often micro cracks still allow water contact with the metal that will rot them out. You can search UA-cam for water tank anode rod and see what it’s all about
@@marciamarcia7449 look up "water heater anode rod" if you like. Replacing it every 3-6 years is the only other maintenance (in addition to flushing every year) that a tank type water heater needs.
@@marciamarcia7449 Some tanks come with sacrificial anodes, apparently the one in the video does not.
I always learn something new. Keep it coming. Great videos!
Turn off boiler before cleaning or the heater will melt itself down.
Only flush the tank if it’s been Routinely flushed. If it’s been 5-10 years and never flushed just leave it be or you could spring a leak and cause more headaches. Replacing the anode rode every 3-5 years is a much better alternative and preventative measure
That sounds similar to the old transmission fluid rule: If it never got changed by the schedule just leave it in until it dies as the change could upset the equilibrium that held the worn parts together or something like that.
So, if I plan on replacing it since it’s more than 10 years old and came with the house with no maintenance history, I could try it and it if leaks I just replace it. Otherwise, new anode and I’d be good ?
@@arakwar you can try that. Or just do the anode road. If you spring a leak you’ll be out the whole tank but if it’s ten years old it’s near the end of its life
@@Dan-ef4jz Can you elaborate on why it is risky to flush a tank if either it hasn't been flushed routinely or if you recently bought the house and don't know the maintenance record? If it hasn't been routinely flushed, then there could be dramatic sediment build up....but how would attempting to drain it now cause a leak? Thank you for clarifying.
Our water heater in France has the in and out on the bottom, it still rusts over lol.
Good, useful content. Continued success.
Thank you for creating videos like this.😊
I have a tank that has been in service since 1988 and I have never done this. I am definitely not touching it.
Nice vid! Too bad coins aren’t coming out!!
It might also be worth checking out the anode rod condition which is very important but it can be a complicated process.
Complicated because on modern water heaters you usually have to pry off the metal cap then cut off the insulation over the top of the rod.
And his after 12 yrs or more is d efinently eroded away to nothing.
As a home inspector, we were trained to recommend training a couple gallons each month. That way also the valve does not corrode and stays usable.
Also for my home, I use the trentotron magnets on the pipes to suspend the iron and so on in the water and so it does not settle as easily.
Can you do a review on a gas heater? Thanks
Thanks. I was wondering how to flush my water heater since it’s in a basement just like yours.
Thank you cleared mine today
An even more important maintenance chore is to check the anode rod and replace it if needed. No amount of flushing the tank will help if the insides of the tank are being dissolved away.
Also your comment about not wearing shorts is wrong. Shorts is better. If you get hot water on your legs, it will easily mover through denim or other cloth material. Plus it will STAY there even while removing your pants. Better to have exposed skin where the water won't be held and where cold water can be applied directly. If applied to hot, wet cloth, the cold water has to cool all that down, then seep through the cloth before it can cool the skin. Best to wear something like fishing John's which are waterproof. Better yet watch what you're doing.
Yet another worthy project...... Thanks (I think 😉)
just finished doing this on my mobile in florida...the tank was a 2005 vintage unit and I doubt it was ever flushed. there was probably 5 lbs of calcium in the bottom coming out. drained and flushed it several time before I finally got clear water. all the taps in the unit were jammed with small particles.
How’s the lawn doing??
Coming along many videos on that coming very soon.
Would you please do a video on RO/DI filtering systems for drinking water? I’m currently using the Zero Water filters and it’s costing a small fortune, and they no longer last as long like they did many years ago. Thank you 🙏!
Hello. I am in NH too and appreciate your channel. I just wanted to confirm I understand your method. You are not turning anything off, correct? So you leave both hot and cold water valves on, as well as the pilot (if gas) or electricity (if electric)? And you make no adjustments to your furnace? The only thing you do is open the water spigot/drain valve on the bottom and drain the water while the unit continues to run as normal, correct? I have seen other methods suggested on you tube where they do shut off the hot water valve, etc so I just wanted to make sure I understood. Thank you!!
Mine water heater never had its tank flush for 26 years, finally the TP weld sprung a leak & I had replaced. The water from the new water heater, had a lots of air and air bubbles and pretty milky… I will wait another couple of days, if it doesn’t improve, I will call the plumber back.😢
I'd just turn off the breaker to the water heater till I was done anyway
How would you store used heat pump all in one water systems.
Thinking of spraying rp7 on connectors and inside water container to keep any corrosion at bay. I will take out anodes and inspect them and replace if necessary. I'll leave ports open for air to circulate.correct? Or...
Thanks for sharing. I need to flush my tank has brownish color water through the faucet. my question is you mentioned you don’t have to turn off the power to do this procedure. Just attach the hose open the valve and drain. Is this correct?
Can you do this exact same process with the electric turned off to an electric water heater? Would that change how the water flushed through?
I must say, I haven't seen this method of opening the drain valve while the tank is working. It sounds like a good idea in theory, but is this safe to do? Seems a little risky...
So you don't have to change any settings or turn off the water or power? Just hook up a hose and open the valve to let it drain?
Is it as easy as setting up a hose to the heater and opening the thing at the bottom? Or am I missing something?
This is my first time flushing my hot water heater. I don't want to make a mistake, so I had two questions if anybody could chime in with some advice?
1) Do you turn off the hot & cold water wines connected to the top of the hot water heater while flushing it.
2) Do you keep the hot water heater turned on while you're flushing it?
I have a utility sink about 8 feet from my hot water tank in my basement. Would the water pressure be enough to "pressure flush" it? I have a hose I would trim to fit so there isn't useless hose for the water to flow through.
Yes. It's city water pressure as long as you keep the valve on that feeds the cold water in side.
Ok that's what I thought, of course the hose bib on my tank is plastic lol
great job! y didn't u shut the gas off like they show in other vids?DIY THANKS
Turn it off. Use the hot water. Shut off the water pressure. Open the P/T valve. Drain the tank. A liter sized bottle cap works on a leaky shut off.
😁 After you empty it Blast it 3 or 4 times for separately 4 seconds to be sure even more sediments get drained out.
Blast it with water, air, vinegar?
Have you heard of turbo Tank Cleaner? And would you use it?
Thank you for this.
Do I need to turn off or unplug mine?
Did you do this flush while the tank was under pressure ?
Great video! Are you Kipkay?
Do you have geothermal heat? I’m looking at all that extra plumbing and wondering if your geothermal heating system also heats your potable water.
Great helpful posts, thanks so much
Do you have to use a garden can I just put it in a bucket?
You wont damage the the heater by not turning it off while your draining it?
Wanna come the Asheville NC? Room and board to do this to our 2 acres….😊
"Now you can use your own water pressure to push ..." 1:33
Please elaborate, how are you using water pressure to aid in flushing? Are you also running your hose to pull water from your water heater? Or maybe forcing water back through your heater drain hose to agitate the contents?
Yeah it seems like something was left out there.
He never turned off the water to completely drain the tank so the tank still had full pressure from the well’s bladder tank. The water had roughly 40 psi behind it instead of 6 feet of head if the water were off and it was gravity draining.
He should have used a full port 3/4” ball valve and when your flushing the tank you are using the incoming water pressure to push out the sediment build up in side the tank. Turn on the valve for 5 minutes then off for 5 minutes then repeat the process 4x every 6 months.
Why not do a video about changing the anode rod? Pretty simple thing to do for a backyard parts changer
Our water heater has never been drained and unfortunately when you open the valve nothing comes out. I even tried opening it and blowing some air up inside... nothing. So best to just leave it alone at this point. When it needs replacement I will pump the water out from the top.
If using natural gas should you set it to pilot instead of just leaving it to whatever temp is set while letting the water run through the tank?
Anyone know the answer?
I don’t see why not. That’ll prevent the heater from kicking on as you’re flushing it.
Or vacation mode
That is what I would do.
If you are doing it the way he did, where the inlet water stays on and the tank stays full, it doesn't really matter.
If you turn the water inlet off and fully drain the tank, you need to turn it down to "pilot" until you refill the tank.
Hot water doesn't need to be heated. But perhaps I could interest you in a cold water cooler?
did you use a special hose rated for hot water or anything? this is what I am worried about, the hose failing because it isn't made to run hot water and having issues with all that water in my garage
That valve rarely closes without leaking.
Dear Silver,
This is Enla from Aolithum battery, our new 12V100Ah batteries have been in stock. I have sent you an e-mail to confirm the release date of the video. If you are busy with other projects and will delay the post of the review video, please let me know. Tks.
Cold water heater.
Jus turn the gas down to pilot or turn down electric while draining tank
There is a breaker for that water heater!
Cool
Probably safe to set the gauge to vacation before starting this.
“Hot water heater” - Why would hot water need heating?😂😂😬
Super 🤟🏼🤝
What if your hot water is starting to smell like rotten eggs? Is your water heater toast or will your method work?
Sulphur smells are typically from the sacrificial anode reacting with your water. If it smells when you first turn it on but then clears, it’s likely the anode.
Anode rod. But might be time to replace the entire unit. If anode or flushing haven't been done regularly and it's past it typical life span, (6,9 or 12 years usually) then it might be so full of crude that you'll never get it back to how it should operate.
@@beerbeforebreakfast Thank you. This unit is as old as the hills. We are prepared to replace it.
if i hear dripping when the water heater is going what can this indicate? Should i continue to do this?
It's called a water heater. Just trying to help
My hot water smells really bad. Do you think this will solve my issue? I’ve heard there’s also some kind of electrode or rod in the heater that may need to be replaced?
Correct. Almost all water heaters have a sacrificial anode that purposefully corrodes in a manner to protect the tank from corroding. It needs to be routinely replaced. Lots of YT videos on how to do this. The odor, in most cases, is that process functioning as intended. There are different types of anodes, and it appears the cheapest magnesium ones result in the odor. I’m on well water and have a whole home filter/softener so my anode lasts about a year before the odor gets too much. I just installed an electrical anode (corro-protect). Will see what a year brings.
Since this comment I have also installed a corro-protect electric anode. The smell immediately was gone. I will also wait to see about the longevity