You guys are an absolute Godsend! I successfully changed my fuel filter at the same time as cleaning my injectors to make sure clean fuel would be getting to them. I followed your video exactly and it really helped a lot. You were right about making sure the priming pump is done properly. It takes a loooong time. Wow! Anyway, thanks so much for posting this video. You've saved me a costly visit to the mechanics!
Been putting this job off for weeks. Would've probably given up after a couple of hours anyway, then taken it to the garage. Thanks very much for this video. Feeling confident.
You Sir are a Legend and a Life saver, didn't know there was a prime bubble, thanks so much for this video, however i took the fuel pump out without removing as much, just the air pipe and pipe for turbo, thanks again 👍
Thanks guys I had a power loss on my peugeot partner tepee with same engine bay.. Some slight changes but I followed your guide and sorted... Well done..
Hi Gary, Thanks for the comment. We're happy you found the video useful. Feel free to share with friends and those you know which will help us to grow our channel so we can reach more to share our knowledge and experience. Driveway Dudes - Paul
Great video, I have a Mini Cooper D 1.6 and is basically the same, mine was easier to get to though. I just had to remove the air intake pipe to fit. This will help many people as this engine is fitted to small Peugeot’s, Citroen’s, Mini’s, Ford’s, Volvo’s & Fiat’s I think. Basically if you have either 90hp or 109hp 1.6 D from around 2006 - 2011 this might help you 👍
Great thanks guys. Just fitted, and primed, my 307sw hdi. All good now thanks. Although my filter warning light is still showing currently....hopefully it will clear after a few miles?
Great video! excellent explanation, thank you! For any chance do you have a video about replacing the fuel rail pressure sensor? Can simply replace it or do I need to release fuel pressure of the fuel rail first? Thanks in advance!
Gavin Blyth Yes I will second that! I would love to see a coolant flush video also. There appears to be a lot of confusion surrounding the location of bleed valves and how to do the procedure without air locking.
Great video, very helpful thanks, need to sort this on the ex's motor this weekend. PS, please clean and protect the battery terminals next time too, while you're at it;-)
Cracking video chaps. One question: whats the recommended order of play if I'm also going to change the oil, oil filter, air filter and cabin filter as well as the fuel filter?
Hi eshov, Replacing the oil and oil filter would be done together. Other filters can be done individually at times/mileage recommended by manufacturer. If you do not know when they were last replaced then they could be overdue. In order of importance - the oil, oil filter (20,000 Kms), fuel filter (60,000 Kms), gearbox oil (100,000 Kms) then followed by the air filter (20,000 - 32500kms) and lastly the cabin pollen filter (every 36 Months). It would not hurt the car to replace them sooner rather than later. These are guide times. They may or may not be exact (dependant on year/make/model/engine,etc). Please refer to your owners handbook. Hope this helps.
Driveway Dudes thanks for getting back to me. What I actually meant (sorry, my message wasn't clear) is, during the actual process of servicing the vehicle, if I was to do all those jobs in the same session, in which order is best? Or does it not matter? Thanks
Hi Eshov, I recommend you remove the sump plug first to drain the oil. While the oil continues to drain, change the oil filter, air filter and cabin filter. After the the oil has finished draining, refit the sump plug and refill with oil. When that is done, start the car to ensure there is no leaks and everything is well lubricated. Depending on the fuel system you have, give it some time to allow the fuel to drain back to the tank before you change the fuel filter. With the time taken to change the fuel filter, this will have allowed the oil to drain back to the sump allowing you to take a more accurate reading of the oil level after you done your service. Top up the oil if required. This is the order I would do the above work. I hope this helps, Driveway Dudes - Will
Oh i hope hou read this. Hou reclame à whole plastic huge thing here , when i look in Amazon (bases in oud car (C4 grand Picasso 1.6hdi 2007)) at diesel filters I only see little can like things and other videos show the top plastic thing being removed from just such a can like filter. Can you tell me if you needed to do the pis whole thing or could have replaced a small (and relatively cheap) filter?
Didn't you forget to re-connect the bottom drain hose to the new filter? Wouldn't want anyone to miss it when doing theirs. Great video apart from that though, thanks.
Thanks for the comment. We make what we believe to be useful videos so if viewers find our videos helpful then it's up to them if they wish to subscribe and share. We have no control over that.
Anyone know what the connection on the back of the filter or bottom of the filter is for.. just noticed my filter has no connection but the wiring loom has the socket. Thanks
Should pre fill the new filter first and bleed to the bottom drain and then top nipple of filter while other connected also , if done first will save hrs of headaches . That video is missing these vital steps please delete or update notes .
Hi i have the same engine the fuel line on the filterhousing lower side the other of it camr loose i dont know where to connect it to i dont know where it goes from the filter housing its the seetrough like line
hello can you help me please , i need to know how many pump have citroen c4 1.6 hdi 2014 ? i know for oil pump . pump in reservoar , water pump , any more pump ? mechanic say some dpf pump , i know for dpf filter but never heard for dpf pump ,
What is the purpose of the last connector you took off? The one at the bottom of the rear of the filter. I changed my filter today and the one i took off, and the one i put on, had NO pins on the inside (filter side) for the connector to marry up with. I have watched other videos and there is a part which screws into the threaded hole which sits immediately above the connector, this no doubt has pins in it which marry up with the connector. But the filter you took off, and mine, didn't have this part on it.
Because it was plugged in and even though it appears there are no active connector pins/plug on the filter, we still fit the replacement as it was with the previous one. It may be an optional feature that this model doesn't have active or the filter is constructed of a housing that fits other models with the added feature connection.
@@DrivewayDudes no worries thanks, was wondering if it was some kind of diesel heater for v cold climates, it just stumped me a bit when i was changing mine because i didn't disconnect it when i was taking the old one off, then i went to fit the new filter n thought where the feck did that come from?!
Somehow I'v replaced this filter without removeing battery. Its tight but manageable. It was in peugeot 308. Under the bonnet it looks quite same. Brake tank fluid was also untouched.
I've done exactly what I've seen in the video and everything was alright but the car started a minute and stopped and did not want to start anymore. have i installed the hoses wrong because i have messed up a bit in them? thanks
It's almost impossible to install the hoses incorrectly. It sounds like you did not bleed the fuel line enough. You need to press and squeeze the bleed priming bubble for several minutes
Hi guys, Can I just ask, is there any chance of the key fobs codes being wiped on removal of the battery? I'm ready to do the job, but Im concerned about this, cheers
I have the exact same car but 2006 model. Mine cranks but will not start. It is giving me Fault code P1351 which relates to the pre heating relay. I changed the relay and the code is still stuck on permanent. I am currently going through the process of why there is no fuel coming up from the tank to the engine as when i pulled the feed line from the tank nothing comes out
Hi Sahin San, Did you replace the fuel filter and was there fuel at the filter prior to replacing it? Did you bleed/prime the system as shown in the video? Code P1351 for PSA engines shows when a fault is detected for glow plug or pre heater relay. Some codes are generalisations which means it's recording a fault at a particular component though it may not be that particular component that's at fault.
Hi Dudes, first thing i did was scan the faults on my Autel Maxidas and only 2 codes are tail lamp out and P1351. So i changed the pre heater relay which changed nothing. I decided to check for fuel flow, which there was non from the feed line coming from the tank. So i thought in tank pump is gone. THERE IS NO PUMP in the tank but only Mechanical one at the engine. Next I went and bought a replacement diesel filter and have fitted it exactly as you guys did, but i had no diesel leaks as there was no fuel at the lines! (the filter was full inside). I have my battery on charge tonight so im hoping in the morning she fires up. Correct me if i am wrong. I have read in multiple forums that the P1351 will not stop the car from firing up and that this sort of engine does not require the glow plugs to operate to function? I am in Australia so the temperatures are never that cold. Still please advise me :)
Some vehicles rely on the HPP to suck the fuel from the tank whilst others have an electric pump in the tank or fuel line to supply fuel to the HPP. If only the HHP not working then it may be the fuel pressure regulator on it at fault or not detecting pressure. Symptoms would be fuel getting to it but not any further, a blocked fuel filter, air in or getting into fuel lines. Ideally there has to be a small amount of pressure at the HPP for it to kick in so bleeding and priming is absolutely necessary. Sometimes bleeding priming can take a few minutes, sometimes longer. Compressing the rubber primer until it becomes hard and you can hear / feel fuel in it. On our C4 it takes between 10 and 15 minutes (feels like an hour) and is quite a strain on the fingers
Interesting... thanks. Well, it seemed OK to remove it to access the EGR valve - I had to have the fuel filter out and re-prime it afterwards anyway. I thought it was a vacuum hose is because I googled the part number of the device it appeared to be connected to. It might however not actually be connected there internally and instead go to the fuel rail - in which case, I stand corrected.
Hi philxyz. I'm glad that everything went back together well for you. As you know, it can be frustrating putting something back together again and it doesn't work!
You guys are an absolute Godsend! I successfully changed my fuel filter at the same time as cleaning my injectors to make sure clean fuel would be getting to them. I followed your video exactly and it really helped a lot.
You were right about making sure the priming pump is done properly. It takes a loooong time. Wow!
Anyway, thanks so much for posting this video. You've saved me a costly visit to the mechanics!
Been putting this job off for weeks. Would've probably given up after a couple of hours anyway, then taken it to the garage. Thanks very much for this video. Feeling confident.
You Sir are a Legend and a Life saver, didn't know there was a prime bubble, thanks so much for this video, however i took the fuel pump out without removing as much, just the air pipe and pipe for turbo, thanks again 👍
Good information about having to prime for about 10 minutes. Most of us have given up long before even 3-4 minutes. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
I have a Peugeot 207 1.6 HDI, looks almost identical. Thanks for the video guys, made this year’s service a lot cheaper!
👍
Thanks guys I had a power loss on my peugeot partner tepee with same engine bay.. Some slight changes but I followed your guide and sorted... Well done..
Hi Gary,
Thanks for the comment. We're happy you found the video useful.
Feel free to share with friends and those you know which will help us to grow our channel so we can reach more to share our knowledge and experience.
Driveway Dudes - Paul
When is it recommended to change it ?
Thanks for the video guide. It’s not easy , but at least I known what to do .
Your pops is good at demos , good vlog very informative and useful thx
Great little video, explained well and makes life easy, thanks
Супер, объяснил очень хорошо.
Great video, I have a Mini Cooper D 1.6 and is basically the same, mine was easier to get to though. I just had to remove the air intake pipe to fit. This will help many people as this engine is fitted to small Peugeot’s, Citroen’s, Mini’s, Ford’s, Volvo’s & Fiat’s I think. Basically if you have either 90hp or 109hp 1.6 D from around 2006 - 2011 this might help you 👍
All done! There was a bit of bad language used, but wouldn't have managed at all without your film. Cheers lads.
👍
Well explained gives you a bit more confidence to do my own thanks.
Great to hear!
Another great vid. Thanks guys👍🏼
Glad to help
Great Video on an awkward job.I think I preferred older cars when access around the engine was so much better
Hi Richard,
Glad you liked the video. You're absolutely right, many of the older cars were much easier to service various parts.
Driveway Dudes - Will
Great thanks guys. Just fitted, and primed, my 307sw hdi. All good now thanks. Although my filter warning light is still showing currently....hopefully it will clear after a few miles?
Great video! excellent explanation, thank you!
For any chance do you have a video about replacing the fuel rail pressure sensor? Can simply replace it or do I need to release fuel pressure of the fuel rail first? Thanks in advance!
Another great video lads! I have the same model on a 58 plate. Any chance you could do a coolant drain, flush and refill video on the c4 GP? Cheers!!
Hi Gavin,
Thanks for the comment.
We don't have the use of a C4 GP at the moment but we can add that to our 'list to do'
Driveway Dudes Paul
Gavin Blyth
Yes I will second that! I would love to see a coolant flush video also. There appears to be a lot of confusion surrounding the location of bleed valves and how to do the procedure without air locking.
Excellent video, clear explanation every step of the way. Well done.
Great video, very helpful thanks, need to sort this on the ex's motor this weekend. PS, please clean and protect the battery terminals next time too, while you're at it;-)
Great tutorial, thanks a lot!! What would you recommend in terms of brand and quality?
Glad to help. We’ve used the German branded filters (Mann, Mahle, Hengst) in the past without any issues
Unfortunately, I have turned the hoses heads so I could not know which one up and down.
what is that blue plug for? my hdf939 unit doesn't have any connection pins in the spot for that plug.
Cracking video chaps. One question: whats the recommended order of play if I'm also going to change the oil, oil filter, air filter and cabin filter as well as the fuel filter?
Hi eshov,
Replacing the oil and oil filter would be done together. Other filters can be done individually at times/mileage recommended by manufacturer.
If you do not know when they were last replaced then they could be overdue.
In order of importance - the oil, oil filter (20,000 Kms), fuel filter (60,000 Kms), gearbox oil (100,000 Kms) then followed by the air filter (20,000 - 32500kms) and lastly the cabin pollen filter (every 36 Months).
It would not hurt the car to replace them sooner rather than later.
These are guide times. They may or may not be exact (dependant on year/make/model/engine,etc). Please refer to your owners handbook.
Hope this helps.
Driveway Dudes thanks for getting back to me. What I actually meant (sorry, my message wasn't clear) is, during the actual process of servicing the vehicle, if I was to do all those jobs in the same session, in which order is best? Or does it not matter? Thanks
Hi Eshov, I recommend you remove the sump plug first to drain the oil. While the oil continues to drain, change the oil filter, air filter and cabin filter. After the the oil has finished draining, refit the sump plug and refill with oil. When that is done, start the car to ensure there is no leaks and everything is well lubricated.
Depending on the fuel system you have, give it some time to allow the fuel to drain back to the tank before you change the fuel filter. With the time taken to change the fuel filter, this will have allowed the oil to drain back to the sump allowing you to take a more accurate reading of the oil level after you done your service. Top up the oil if required.
This is the order I would do the above work.
I hope this helps,
Driveway Dudes - Will
Oh i hope hou read this. Hou reclame à whole plastic huge thing here , when i look in Amazon (bases in oud car (C4 grand Picasso 1.6hdi 2007)) at diesel filters I only see little can like things and other videos show the top plastic thing being removed from just such a can like filter. Can you tell me if you needed to do the pis whole thing or could have replaced a small (and relatively cheap) filter?
are you not better putting some diesel in the new filter so it will start easy?
Didn't you forget to re-connect the bottom drain hose to the new filter? Wouldn't want anyone to miss it when doing theirs. Great video apart from that though, thanks.
On my cars,citroen c4 ,don't have bottom drain hose,i change filter and don't see.Where does the hose lead from the filter? And what is its purpose?
Great video surprised you haven't got more subs
Thanks for the comment.
We make what we believe to be useful videos so if viewers find our videos helpful then it's up to them if they wish to subscribe and share. We have no control over that.
Anyone know what the connection on the back of the filter or bottom of the filter is for.. just noticed my filter has no connection but the wiring loom has the socket. Thanks
Should pre fill the new filter first and bleed to the bottom drain and then top nipple of filter while other connected also , if done first will save hrs of headaches . That video is missing these vital steps please delete or update notes .
Well explained and well done thank you very much. Now I can tackle my one👏👏👏👍👍👍🥳
very good tutorial. thanks.
Amazing video does new fuel filter need programing?
Thanks. Programming, no, just priming
Thank you so much do you have any video regarding replacement rear disc and pads and also is it programing?
The rear discs are not yet due to be replaced but the rear pads may be soon.
We will definitely film and upload it.
Thanks
Is it all the same on Citroen C4 coupe (2/3 doors) 2008 90hp 1.6HDi?
Great video, but at 6.06 that is not a fuel pipe, that is the brake vacuum line.
Good video😀
Glad it helped
Great dudes! 👍👏👏👏🤜🤛
Rock on!
Brilliant, thanks to you guys I've done it changed my filter ,enormously satisfieing, thanks again suscribe ng and recommending your chanel
Thanks for the comment and happy you found the video useful.
👍
How long do you think this would take to change?
excellent video
Hi deputy dog,
Thanks for the comment. Hope you found it useful 👍
Hi i have the same engine the fuel line on the filterhousing lower side the other of it camr loose i dont know where to connect it to i dont know where it goes from the filter housing its the seetrough like line
Hi, are you sure it the fuel hose or the bleed hose?
hello
can you help me please , i need to know how many pump have citroen c4 1.6 hdi 2014 ? i know for oil pump . pump in reservoar , water pump , any more pump ? mechanic say some dpf pump , i know for dpf filter but never heard for dpf pump ,
What is the purpose of the last connector you took off? The one at the bottom of the rear of the filter. I changed my filter today and the one i took off, and the one i put on, had NO pins on the inside (filter side) for the connector to marry up with. I have watched other videos and there is a part which screws into the threaded hole which sits immediately above the connector, this no doubt has pins in it which marry up with the connector. But the filter you took off, and mine, didn't have this part on it.
Because it was plugged in and even though it appears there are no active connector pins/plug on the filter, we still fit the replacement as it was with the previous one.
It may be an optional feature that this model doesn't have active or the filter is constructed of a housing that fits other models with the added feature connection.
@@DrivewayDudes no worries thanks, was wondering if it was some kind of diesel heater for v cold climates, it just stumped me a bit when i was changing mine because i didn't disconnect it when i was taking the old one off, then i went to fit the new filter n thought where the feck did that come from?!
Hi fellas
My local Indy has just changed the fuel filter on my c4 1.6 hdi and now the car won’t start 😩 any ideas on what could have gone wrong?
Hi Kray,
Sorry to hear that. Have you tried manually priming the fuel filter by squeezing the priming bulb until you feel resistance?
great video however a french car is always pain to work with and what shouldve been a 30min job turned into a 5 hour struggle with a broken finger
Hi . I wonder where is drain pipe connected? Mine just hanging…
Hi. It should be connected on one end to the fuel filter and the other end we left hanging down away from any moving parts
Thank,s from Germany ...........greeting,s
Thsnks for that . Good job
Happy you found the video useful
thelittleyellowducks hbb
Somehow I'v replaced this filter without removeing battery. Its tight but manageable. It was in peugeot 308. Under the bonnet it looks quite same. Brake tank fluid was also untouched.
I've done exactly what I've seen in the video and everything was alright but the car started a minute and stopped and did not want to start anymore. have i installed the hoses wrong because i have messed up a bit in them? thanks
It's almost impossible to install the hoses incorrectly. It sounds like you did not bleed the fuel line enough. You need to press and squeeze the bleed priming bubble for several minutes
hi , Tanks from Italy
Hi laura, Prego 👍
Should the hoses be accurate with input and output and how do I know that? Thank you very much
They are manufactured, designed and shaped in such a way as they will comfortably fit whereas if you try to fit incorrectly it would be difficult
i have a 2006 C3 1.4hdi - is the filter in the same location?
It's in pretty much the same location though unlike the C4 which is square shaped the C3 is round barrel shaped
Hi guys,
Can I just ask, is there any chance of the key fobs codes being wiped on removal of the battery? I'm ready to do the job, but Im concerned about this, cheers
The key fob has a battery which will retain the coding. The radio coding if activated however may not.
Excellent video (y)
👍
Cheers pal
hi there i have the same engine can you tell me where the egr soleniod is at on this engine can not seem to find it any where
Once you've located the egr valve, follow the rubber pipe and you will find the vacuum solenoid
I have the exact same car but 2006 model. Mine cranks but will not start. It is giving me Fault code P1351 which relates to the pre heating relay. I changed the relay and the code is still stuck on permanent. I am currently going through the process of why there is no fuel coming up from the tank to the engine as when i pulled the feed line from the tank nothing comes out
Hi Sahin San,
Did you replace the fuel filter and was there fuel at the filter prior to replacing it?
Did you bleed/prime the system as shown in the video?
Code P1351 for PSA engines shows when a fault is detected for glow plug or pre heater relay.
Some codes are generalisations which means it's recording a fault at a particular component though it may not be that particular component that's at fault.
Hi Dudes, first thing i did was scan the faults on my Autel Maxidas and only 2 codes are tail lamp out and P1351. So i changed the pre heater relay which changed nothing. I decided to check for fuel flow, which there was non from the feed line coming from the tank. So i thought in tank pump is gone. THERE IS NO PUMP in the tank but only Mechanical one at the engine.
Next I went and bought a replacement diesel filter and have fitted it exactly as you guys did, but i had no diesel leaks as there was no fuel at the lines! (the filter was full inside).
I have my battery on charge tonight so im hoping in the morning she fires up.
Correct me if i am wrong. I have read in multiple forums that the P1351 will not stop the car from firing up and that this sort of engine does not require the glow plugs to operate to function? I am in Australia so the temperatures are never that cold. Still please advise me :)
What car have you got exactly?
On this C4 the pump is located under a metal plate above the fuel tank
Driveway Dudes the sender unit on mine under the rear seats does not have a pump attached to it. High pressure pump at the engine only.
Some vehicles rely on the HPP to suck the fuel from the tank whilst others have an electric pump in the tank or fuel line to supply fuel to the HPP.
If only the HHP not working then it may be the fuel pressure regulator on it at fault or not detecting pressure.
Symptoms would be fuel getting to it but not any further, a blocked fuel filter, air in or getting into fuel lines.
Ideally there has to be a small amount of pressure at the HPP for it to kick in so bleeding and priming is absolutely necessary. Sometimes bleeding priming can take a few minutes, sometimes longer. Compressing the rubber primer until it becomes hard and you can hear / feel fuel in it. On our C4 it takes between 10 and 15 minutes (feels like an hour) and is quite a strain on the fingers
5:44 I think that's the brake booster vacuum hose rather than a fuel line
Hi philxyz. That particular pipe at 5:44 is a fuel line.
Interesting... thanks. Well, it seemed OK to remove it to access the EGR valve - I had to have the fuel filter out and re-prime it afterwards anyway. I thought it was a vacuum hose is because I googled the part number of the device it appeared to be connected to. It might however not actually be connected there internally and instead go to the fuel rail - in which case, I stand corrected.
Hi philxyz. I'm glad that everything went back together well for you. As you know, it can be frustrating putting something back together again and it doesn't work!
How different is this with the Mark 2 C4? I have a 1.6 HDi - the filter seems to come in a container in my case?
What year is the C4?
After 2009 the filter is different. It looks more rounded
2015 1.6 HDI 120
Yes, that would be the rounded design for that model
In that one - I don't remove the paper filter at all? I just replace the plastic unit as a whole?
Thanks.
can you inform me does the same car but petrol 1.4 has a petrol filter...???
Yes, The 1.4 petrol model has an inline fuel filter
@@DrivewayDudes sorry I should have asked you from the beginning, where the fuel filter is located...? is it on the petrol tank or somewhere else...??
If it's the same as Peugeot then it could be located on the underbody just rear of the engine
@@DrivewayDudes thanks so much for your help.
I mean the entrance and exit they look like each other
Missing the sensor of fuel filter man 🤔
This model doesn't have the sensor on the filter housing
πιο ευκολα αλαζεις μηχανη παρα φιλτρο
Δεν είναι εύκολο
Changement de pompe d amorçage de gasoil Peugeot partneur
pompe diesel?
At least the engine doesnt have to come out
True. Some cars may not be so easy