This is a 2003 body style gauge cluster issue. Not specific to this make, model or year. All him and chevy gauge clusters around this year have similar issues. Test this first.
So, is a problem with the 04 Silverado? I can't let my truck sit more than 4 days without it dying, but I've left my Buick for 2 weeks before. It's annoying because then my truck loses all the damn tuning lol
Same with my 03 Silverado brand new alternator and battery went did great since it’s my work truck. went out of town let it sit for 3 days and battery dead now did you find the problem on yours?
Hi I'm sorry to bother you but I have a problem with my truck. My truck is a 2003 Chevy Silverado. So the problem is that the battery drains fast and it doesn't charge when the truck is on but I replaced the alternator and it's still doing it
Alternator fuse? Bad field wire? Really difficult to say without knowing what else happened. Did you try to jump start it before and get the wires crossed? Could have fried the computer if that happened
There is a good chance it’s an internal short in the battery and just needs to be replaced. Even if it’s new. I’ve replaced a dozen bad batteries off the shelf in the last two years.
I would just try and find a power source that only provides power in acc/run. Basically, find a few dead fuse leads, mark them, and key on or start, then find one that is NOW providing power. (Double check that it doesn’t continue providing power after shutoff).
Can you please explain what you have the multimeter hooked up to and is the negative battery cable disconnected. I am terrible with electrical issues. Thanks for any help
I usually disconnect the negative terminal, and connect my volt meter leads to the battery terminal, and other lead to the battery cable (in series). I use Vice grips to hold the lead to the battery terminal. Setup your meter for amperage (10 amp). Close and lock the vehicle. The amp draw will be around 2.0 amps (example) and will shortly drop to .5 amps, then down to preferably 0.07 or so (that’s the memory for the clock). This should stabilize in under 30 seconds to a minute, once the computer goes to “sleep”. Anything after a minute, that is above around 0.15 amps is going to drain the battery in 2-4 days and won’t start. .4-1.0 amp will make it not start the next morning. So, then find the circuit responsible for the draw by pulling one fuse at a time, and find the component that fuse provides power to, that has the problem.
So, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and use the voltmeter to reconnect the disconnected battery cable (say, positive test lead to negative cable on vehicle, and negative lead to battery terminal) You should have enough power to operate the dome light, but don’t try starting it cause you’ll blow the fuse in the multimeter.
@@MechanicalTriage I have a real challenge wanted to see if you can help. I have a 2004 Chevy Avalanche and when I go to turn it over all I get is the clicking. Long story short I replaced the starter, did work. I then replaced my still under warranty battery still didn't work. I thought it may be starter relay but didn't work. I then checked my battery with multimeter while it was running to make sure the alternator was charging. I only got 12.6 volts max. So decided to replace the alternator but it is still not charging my battery and truck won't crank without my jump box. Please help!!!
I have the same issue with my 2004 Silverado. I remove fuse and draw goes away. I’ve replaced stepper motors and bulbs in cluster as well and still have draw. Did you ever find the source of draw?
Guage cluster. I just used a switched fuse for its power supply instead of constant power. The only thing is, the gauge needles stay where they were when you shut off, until you key back on, then they sweep and work just fine.
The issue is with all the solder joints in the back of the instrument cluser. They dont use leaded solder so it get something called silver migration. Thats were the short happens.
@@MechanicalTriage yea i checked the draw when i jumped it. it read 0 when i did the same connection you did. just my cluster doesnt zero out when i turn key off. is the 10a fuse suppose to go back into the ipc/dic fuse area? or just leave the wire jumped from sba to ipc without fuse inserted
Yes, because you are providing power. That should be correct. You have to leave the setup like that, and turn the alarm off. Then probably rearm the alarm and wait for the system to go to “sleep” before you can assess what the actual draw is.
Chevy electronics are some of the best and easiest to work on in the business , you obviously have no experience in auto electrical . Start your training on a Saab or Jaguar .
That's a great tip sir! Hadn't considered doing that.
I stole the idea from another video, but adapted it to my situation.
Finally found mine gauge cluster shorted out heard it running with a stethoscope pulled the fuse it’s good now
Was the instrument panel working before you used the jumper wire?
I know my instrument panel works.great, just a parasitic draw
So, is a problem with the 04 Silverado? I can't let my truck sit more than 4 days without it dying, but I've left my Buick for 2 weeks before. It's annoying because then my truck loses all the damn tuning lol
Same with my 03 Silverado brand new alternator and battery went did great since it’s my work truck. went out of town let it sit for 3 days and battery dead now did you find the problem on yours?
Durangos lose idle control when they go dead. This shits so annoying.
Where did u connect the gadget to was it to the battery??
Hi I'm sorry to bother you but I have a problem with my truck. My truck is a 2003 Chevy Silverado. So the problem is that the battery drains fast and it doesn't charge when the truck is on but I replaced the alternator and it's still doing it
Alternator fuse? Bad field wire? Really difficult to say without knowing what else happened. Did you try to jump start it before and get the wires crossed? Could have fried the computer if that happened
There is a good chance it’s an internal short in the battery and just needs to be replaced. Even if it’s new. I’ve replaced a dozen bad batteries off the shelf in the last two years.
Your fusible link wire is bad
I have a 2006 Envoy XL with the same problem but I don't have the SBA fuse, which other can I make the jumper?
I would just try and find a power source that only provides power in acc/run. Basically, find a few dead fuse leads, mark them, and key on or start, then find one that is NOW providing power. (Double check that it doesn’t continue providing power after shutoff).
🧐 wonder if that works for an asspro?
Can you please explain what you have the multimeter hooked up to and is the negative battery cable disconnected. I am terrible with electrical issues. Thanks for any help
I usually disconnect the negative terminal, and connect my volt meter leads to the battery terminal, and other lead to the battery cable (in series). I use Vice grips to hold the lead to the battery terminal. Setup your meter for amperage (10 amp). Close and lock the vehicle. The amp draw will be around 2.0 amps (example) and will shortly drop to .5 amps, then down to preferably 0.07 or so (that’s the memory for the clock). This should stabilize in under 30 seconds to a minute, once the computer goes to “sleep”. Anything after a minute, that is above around 0.15 amps is going to drain the battery in 2-4 days and won’t start.
.4-1.0 amp will make it not start the next morning. So, then find the circuit responsible for the draw by pulling one fuse at a time, and find the component that fuse provides power to, that has the problem.
So, disconnect the negative cable from the battery, and use the voltmeter to reconnect the disconnected battery cable (say, positive test lead to negative cable on vehicle, and negative lead to battery terminal) You should have enough power to operate the dome light, but don’t try starting it cause you’ll blow the fuse in the multimeter.
@@MechanicalTriage thanks for the feedback. Once more question do I need to have my battery fully charged to perform this test correctly?
Definitely very helpful, yes, I would.
@@MechanicalTriage I have a real challenge wanted to see if you can help. I have a 2004 Chevy Avalanche and when I go to turn it over all I get is the clicking. Long story short I replaced the starter, did work. I then replaced my still under warranty battery still didn't work. I thought it may be starter relay but didn't work. I then checked my battery with multimeter while it was running to make sure the alternator was charging. I only got 12.6 volts max. So decided to replace the alternator but it is still not charging my battery and truck won't crank without my jump box. Please help!!!
I have the same issue with my 2004 Silverado. I remove fuse and draw goes away. I’ve replaced stepper motors and bulbs in cluster as well and still have draw. Did you ever find the source of draw?
Guage cluster.
I just used a switched fuse for its power supply instead of constant power. The only thing is, the gauge needles stay where they were when you shut off, until you key back on, then they sweep and work just fine.
@@MechanicalTriage Does memory hold in the cluster, when there isn't power for several months?
@@slshanklin Yes, the memory is part of the cluster itself, and does not require power.
The issue is with all the solder joints in the back of the instrument cluser. They dont use leaded solder so it get something called silver migration. Thats were the short happens.
Is this a known issue in these vehicles because I’m having a battery drain and nobody can figure it out
can i just use some old speaker wire to make the jump from sba to ipc/dic fuses? that a draw from the same 10a fuse.
You’ll have to test it and see how it works. Check to make sure there isn’t a parasitic draw from the battery when everything is “off”
@@MechanicalTriage yea i checked the draw when i jumped it. it read 0 when i did the same connection you did. just my cluster doesnt zero out when i turn key off. is the 10a fuse suppose to go back into the ipc/dic fuse area? or just leave the wire jumped from sba to ipc without fuse inserted
@@flex2125 it won’t zero when you shut it off. It will stick where it last was. When you go to restart it, it should sweep and work normal again.
It zeroing, is one of the reasons it creates a constant draw. It never shuts down.
How did you connect the meter leads when I do the alarm goes off?
Yes, because you are providing power.
That should be correct. You have to leave the setup like that, and turn the alarm off. Then probably rearm the alarm and wait for the system to go to “sleep” before you can assess what the actual draw is.
Ok thanks
The main problem is that Chevy electronics is the worst in the business.
2010 ford fusion, a lot of electrical problems.
Chevy electronics are some of the best and easiest to work on in the business , you obviously have no experience in auto electrical . Start your training on a Saab or Jaguar .
Or any Dodge/Mopar/Jeep @@onthelake9554
Agreed. Wire corrosion, parasitic draw, ground wire corrosion. Security system fail. Faulty BCM. When it rains my door locks go up and down all night.
Koo